7  15  3      9  f 


A  YISIT 


TO 


COLOMBIA, 


KS7  "^mm  ^^^3^^  oisss  &  ]is§@» 


BY  LAGUA^-RA  AND  CARACAS,  OVER  THE  CORDILLERA 

TO  BOGOTA,  AND  THENCE 

BY  THE  MAGDALENA  TO  CARTAGENA. 


BY  COL.  WM.  DUANE,  OF  PHILADA. 


PHILADELPHIA : 

PRINTED  BY  THOMAS  H.  PALMER,  FOR  THE  AUTHOR. 
1826. 


Easteiin  District  of  PEsifSYLvAsiA,  to  wit  . 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  5th  day  of  Jane,  in  the  fiftieth  year  of 
the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  A.  D.  1826,  William  Duane, 
of  the  said  district,  hath  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right 
whereof  he  claims  as  author,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

"  A  Visit  to  Colombia,  in  the  Years  1822  and  1823,  by  Laguayra  and  Caracas, 
over  the  Cordillera  to  Bogota,  and  thence  by  the  Magdalena  to  Cartagena.  By 
Col.  Wm.  Duane,  of  Philada." 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  intituled  "An 
Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts, 
and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein 
mentioned."  And  also  to  the  act  entitled,  "  An  act  supplementary  to  an  act, 
entitled,  '  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of 
maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during 
the  -times  therein  mentioned,'  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts 
of  designing,  engraving,  and  etching,  historical  and  other  prints." 

D.  CALDWELL, 
Clerk  of  the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


^' 


PREFACE. 


'  THE  Visit  to  the  Colombian  Republic  was  made  on  behalf  of 

^        persons  in  the  United  States,  having  claims  against  the  govern- 
^         ment,  of  which  other  agents  had  not  procured  the  liquidation.     It 
/ .  I        was  supposed  that  I  should  be  more  likely  to  accomplish  that  ob- 
ject, and  the  business  required  that  the  first  steps  should  be  at  Ca- 
racas.    I  proceeded  thither,  and  thence  across  the  Cordillera  to  Bo- 
gota, where  I  accomplished  the  settlement  to  a  considerable  amount. 
^  The  parties  in  seeking  to  outwit  each  other  embarrassed  themselves ; 

"^1.  they  however  at  length  received  the  amount  settled  by  me— but 
contrived  to  cheat  me  out  of  my  commissions.  The  fact  would  not 
be  noticed,  were  it  not  possible,  that  an  entire  silence  might  be  con- 
strued into  acquiescence  in  a  transaction  of  transcendant  knavery, 
meanness,  and  ingratitude. 
w  Thirty  years  ago  I  became  acquainted  with  some  men  of  virtue 

Nj"  and  intellect,  who   wer^  preparing  the  way  for  that  revolution  in 

\^        South  America,  which  is  now  realized.     Those  intimacies  had,  by 
*^       exciting  my  sympathy,  led  me  to  bestow  more  earnest  attention  on 
the  history,  geography,  and  the  eventual  destiny  of  those  countries. 
I  perceived  the  commercial  and  political  importance  of  those  rich 
V         regions  to  the  United  States — countries  possessing  every  thing  that 
rj         nature  had  bestowed  on  the  other  parts  of  the  globe,  and  much  more 
Avhich  none  else  possessed.     A  new  creation  springing  out  of  chaos  ; 
inviting  the  republic,  which  had  only  a  few  years  preceded,  to  com- 
municate its  institutions,  exchange  its  useful  products,  and  promote 
a  family  of  republics,  whose  institutions  must  eventually  regenerate 
humanity. 

A  free  press  enabled  me  to  communicate  my  anticipations  and 
conceptions,  which  I  continued  to  make  known,  even  though  laughed 
at — and  by  persons  too  who  are  now  as  zealous  friends^  as  they  were 


j^V  PREFACE. 

before  sceptical,  hostile,  and — worse.  The  generous  love  oi'  liberty 
in  a  free  nation,  however,  triumphed  over  insidious  and  open  enmity 
to  the  new  republics,  and  procured  for  my  essays  and  my  opinions 
a  more  rational  reception  ;  the  government  of  Colombia  thought  my 
efforts  worthy  of  a  vote  of  thanks  ;  and  the  kindness  and  hospitality 
which  I  experienced  in  a  long  journey  of  thirteen  hundred  miles, 
afforded  me  ample  vengeance  for  the  sneers  of  those  who  have  now 
become  the  admirers  of  a  revolution,  which  they  before  reviled  or 
deprecated. 

No  labour  has  been  attempted  in  this  work  ;  a  mere  conversational 
narrative,  such  as  I  should  give  to  a  circle  of  private  friends,  is  all 
that  I  pretend  to.  I  had  proposed  to  comprise  my  volume  within 
five  hundred  pages,  but  it  has  swelled  to  a  hundred  and  twenty 
more  ;  and  I  find  I  have  not  said  one  half  of  what  my  opportunities 
and  materials  would  enable  rae  to  say — on  the  internal  state  of  the 
country — its  commerce,  domestic  and  foreign — its  constitution — 
laws  and  policy — its  statesmen  and  its  parties — finances— public 
economy — colonization — arts.  I  meant  to  have  said  something  about 
the  Amphyctions  of  Panama,  with  the  origin  of  which  I  was  ac- 
quainted before  any  other  person  now  living  in  the  United  States — 
and  I  proposed  to  bestow  a  chapter  on  the  grand  work  of  the  strait 
of  Panama,  to  effect  which  I  have  made  proposals  to  the  Colombian 
government  (sustained  by  capitalists) — and  which,  if  accomplished, 
as  I  know  it  is  practicable,  would  render  the  communication  between 
the  two  oceans  as  free  and  more  secure  than  the  passage  of  the  straits 
of  Sunda  or  Gibraltar. 

When  this  sheet  was  going  to  the  press,  advices  have  been  receiv- 
ed of  a  gust  of  civil  war,  at  Valencia,  in  which  the  reputation  of  a 
hero  of  the  revolution  is  involved.  The  occurrence  is  to  be  lament- 
ed, though  the  consequences  carry  nothing  serious  to  the  republic. 

The  cause  of  this  rumor  may  be  found  in  the  federative  spirit— 
the  spirit  of  party — and  the  blind  passions  of  personal  envy  and 
personal  disappointment,  incident  to  all  revolutions,  and  which  are 
possibly  necessary  to  complete  the  career  of  the  revolution,  and  es- 
tablish the  power  of  the  laws,  where  the  passions  only  had  prevailed 
for  so  many  ages. 

Circumstances  dependant  not  on  myself,  will  determine  whether 
1  shall  publish  any  more  on  the  subject. 


CONTENTS. 


PREFACE • .•..••• .••.••..••••••*•.«•..«•*  Page      3 

CHAPTER  I. 
Voyage  to  Lagfuayra* ..••... •••••••••••••••••• ••••      9 

CHAPTER  H. 
Residence  in  Laguayra  and  incidents  there  •••••••••••••••••• •     24 

CHAPTER  m. 
Further  anecdotes,  and  departure  for  Caracas ••#.•••••••••••• 37 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Caracas — first  impressions— manners — oriental  style  of  building •••#»     52 

CHAPTER  V. 
Plaza  Mayor — market — college — library—  ecclesiastical  affairs ••••••• 69^* 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Religious  processions — visit  to  the  country — military  parades  •••»•• •     87 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Bolivar's  birth-day — musical  party — a  coffee  plantation  ••»•• •••..•  10 1 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Departure,  preparations  for — hints  to  travellers  •••••••••.. •••  114 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Cross  the  Guayra — cavalcade — the  route  to  San  Pedro — San  Mateo  ••••»•  128 

CHAPTER  X. 
Sugar-mill  at  the  Hacienda  of  the  President  Bolivar — pass  of  La  Cabrera — 
Faez 143 

CHAPTER  Xr. 
Lake  of  Valencia— strategy  at  Naguanagua  .....$•• «••««....••■••  160 


VI  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Grenadiers  of  Colombia— Senator  Penalver— barbarity  of  Boves***  Page  177 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Carabobo— Captain  Spence  and  Morales 190 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
San  Carlos— El  Altar— buttress  tree 204 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Barquisimeto — Alcalde — dismal   plain — Tucuyo* ••..•#...»•..•••••  218 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Humacaro  Baxo — knavish  Alcalde — wild  country • 236 

CHAPTER  XVn, 
Obispos — Carache — Santa  Ana — treaties  there  • 249 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Truxillo — Gen.  Clemente — soldier's  widow — Mendoza — Christmas  day 262 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Motatan  river — Timothes — curate — tournament — Erica — the  Virgin  of  Chin- 

chinquira • 286) 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Hospitality  at  Muchachecs — Merida — Gov.  Paredes — Sierra  Nevada 294 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Exido — Lagunillas — Natron  Lake — turbulent  Chama* »•• 307 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Bayladores — agriculture — Col.  Gomez — Gritja — ruse  de  guerre — Post-house 

atElCobre 32§ 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Army  magazines — Challomar — a  bivac — Gen.  Urdaneta — Capacho— Cucuta  336 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Fandango — Saltikal  post-house — Indian  rancho,  happy  condition — Pamplona  351 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
Military  depot — arsenal — nulitary  drills — training  horses — Volcan  de  Agua 

— ffood   Franciscan ••• 372 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Goitre — Capitanejo — bridge — videttes — Suata — Sefiora  Calderon — Sativa  384 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Boyacca— traditions — Serinza — a  French    traveller* • ••••  Page  399 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
Santa  Rosa — beautiful  town  and  plain — hospitality — handsome  population — 

Paypa — los  diablos^azulos* •••••••••••• •••••••••••••• t  415 

CHAPTER  XXVni. 
Peeling  winds — sublime  wilds — Virgin  of  Chinchinquira,  becomes  a  patriot 

— JjuU  teazing •• ..••• •••  428 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Fra,  Garcia — Tunja — Senor  Soto — education* •  ••••••••• •••••  442 ^ 

CHAPTER  XX^. 

Suesca — Hacienda — plain  of  Bogota — approach  to  the  city — Plaza  Mayor*  ••  455 

jl  CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Cathedral — palace — market — Calle   Real — artisans 471 

»  ' 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 
Cataract  Taquendama — Suacha — Franciscan  monastery .»... 490 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 
^"Geog^phic  sketch — political  distribution  of  the  Republic  •• 501 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

JCongress  of  1823 — state  of  the  Republic,  foreign  relations 513 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 
AflPairs  of  interior •• 526 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
Financial  Report — Report  of  the  War  Department — Naval  Report 546 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 
Leave  Bogota — Quindiu,  Guaduas,  Honda — hints  to  travellers 569 

CHAPTER  XXXVni. 
Rapids — passage  of  the  Magdalena — Mompox.  * • •.  586 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 
Leave  Mompox — Teneriffe — anecdotes — Barranca  Nueva — the  digue — Tur- 
bajo — Cartagena.  .• **• 602 

APPENDIX.—No.  L     Fundamental  law  of  Angostura,  1819 623 

No.  II.     Fundamental  law  of  Cucuta,  1821 625 

No.III.    Itineraries •* • ••*•  627 


THE  PLATES. 

The  Pass  of  Cabrera,  to  face  the  title. 

The  Fall  of  Taquendanw,  to  face  Chap.  XXXU. 


TISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Embarcatlon,  and  reception  on  board. — A  sister  of  Bolivar  occupies  same  cabin. 
The  mess  a  variety  of  cheerful  and  agreeable  company. — Pass  Sandy  Hook, 
3d  Oct. — ^joined  by  the  Vincador,  our  consort — make  sail  S.  E. — character  and 
force  of  both  ships. — The  horse  latitudes — conjectures  concerning. — Ship  put 
in  fighting  trim. — Anecdote  of  Seiiora  liol'.var. — See  Sombrero  14th,  afternoon 
— passed  close  to  OrchiHa — glimpse  of  Cape  Codcra. — Coast  as  approached 
Caravallada — historical  anecdote  of  its  spirited  population. — Foundation  of 
Laguayra. — The  Sierra  Avilia  seen,  and  the  Silla — aspect  of  the  mountains  in 
front. — Palm  trees  at  Maquiteia — and  town. — Casemates  of  Laguayra  con- 
stantly beaten  by  the  surf — prison  and  grave  of  patriots. — Anchor  on  1 8th  with 
fourteen  fathoms  cable  out — salute,  and  salute  returned. — The  U.  S.  corvette 
Cyane,  Capt.  Spence — his  manly  conduct — land  the  18th. — A  harbour  easily 
formed  here  secure  against  all  storms. — Find  acquaintances  unexpectedly .-~ 
Kindness  of  American  consul,  and  Commodore  Daniels — introduced  to  Com- 
mandarit — quarters. — Oriental  style  of  building  and  living. — Politeness  of  a 
friend. — Baggage  not  examined. — Mode  of  carrying  ashore — paying  porters. 

The  Colombian  Government,  through  their  agent,  Com- 
modore Daniels,  luid  purchased  the  beautiful  corvette  Her- 
cules, built  by  Mr.  Eckford  of  New  York,  in  the  fall  of 
1822  :  the  Commodore,  understanding  I  was  about  to  visit 
Colombia,  with  his  accustomed  generosity,  offered  me  a  pas- 
sage, which  was  extended  with  the  same  kindness  to  my 
daughter  Elizabeth,  and  stepson  Lieut.  R  Bache,  of  the  U.  S. 
Artillery.  We  were  at  New  York  in  time,  and  embarked  at 
noon  on  the  second  of  October,  1822  ;  and  the  same  evening 
anchored  within  Sandv  Hook. 


lt>  VI31T  TO  COLOMBIA, 

The  experience  and  kindness  of  the  commodore  had  anti* 
cipated  every  thing  that  could  render  our  passage  and  ac- 
commodations pleasant.  The  state  cabin  had  been  apj^ro- 
priated  to  Stnora  Antonia  Bolivar  and  h«.r  daui^hter  Jose- 
phine; the  other  tvio  births,  one  to  Elizabeth,  and  one 
to  myself.  Young  Pablo,  the  son  of  S(.n:)ra  Antonia,  and 
Lieut.  Bache,  were  lodged  in  the  two  births  next  contigu- 
ous. The  state  cabin  was  also  the  mess  room,  and  besides 
the  Commodore  and  those  above  mentioned,  the  mi  ss  con- 
sisted of  Captain  Austin,  who  navigated  on  the  part  of  the 
owners ;  the  ship's  husband  ;  and  such  of  the  officers  and 
passengers  on  board,  in  rotation,  as  the  space  would  con- 
veniently admit.  We  had  a  great  variety  of  characters,  and 
(w  hat  does  not  always  happen  on  board  crowded  ships)  there 
was  not  a  single  squabble  nor  dispute  during  the  vojage; 
good  humor,  and  an  unstudied  disposition  to  afford  every  ser- 
vice that  could  be  agreeable,  rendered  the  passage  rather  a 
party  of  pleasure  on  a  river  than  a  voyage  at  sea  in  a  ship 
of  war, 

Capt.  Austin,  who  was  to  deliver  the  ship  at  Laguayra, 
united  the  literary  character  with  the  seaman,  and  left  no- 
thing on  his  part  undone  to  contribute  to  the  general  comfort 
and  pleasure.  The  officers  who  occasionally  dined  with  us 
gave  a  diversity  to  our  company,  and  there  appeared  to  be  no 
sort  of  contention  but  who  should  be  most  obliging  and  atten- 
tive. Our  fare,  to  the  hour  we  landed,  was  in  every  respect 
equal  to  what  we  should  expect  at  the  best  hotel  in  New 
York  ;  and  the  wines  were  equally  excellent  and  abundant. 

The  first  dawn  of  the  3d  of  October  found  us  under  top- 
sails outside  Sandy  Hook,  of  which  we  very  soon  lost  sight. 
About  11  o'clock  descried  a  sail,  which  proved  to  b^,the 
Vincador,  Colombian  sloop  of  war,  Capt.  Shannon,  who  had 
been  cruizing  for  us  several  days.  After  the  usual  commu- 
nications between  the  ships,  made  sail  our  course  to  the  S.  E. 
till  otherwise  ordered. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  11 

The  corvette  being  to  be  delivt  red  only  at  Laguayra,  car- 
ried the  btripes  and  stars.  The  Vincador,  the  colors  of  Co- 
lombia. The  Hercules,  which  after  her  transfer  took  the 
name  of  Bohvar,  carried  twenty  five  32  pounders,  such  as 
are  usuuliy  carried  by  U.  S.  corvettes;  besides  two  brass 
24  pound  cannon  on  her  forecastle.  Her  crew  consisted  of 
220  prime  seamen,  principally  of  the  crew  lately  discharged 
from  the  U.  S.  I'ngate  Macedonian. 

The  Vincador  carried  fourteen  guns,  and  her  ordinary 
complement  of  150  seamen,  besides  the  like  number  of  vo- 
lunteers intended  for  other  ships  of  the  Colombian  navy. 
On  board  borh  ships  there  were  several  experienced  naval 
officers  extra,  destined  for  the  same  service  ;  among  whom 
were  Lieut.  Christie,  formerly  of  the  U.  S.  navy,  Mr.  Mur- 
ray, formerly  of  the  British  navy,  Capts.  Clerke,  Swaine,  &c. 
men  experienced  in  naval  and  military  service ;  besides  a 
number  of  tyros,  candidates  for  appointments  in  the  naval 
service. 

The  weather  was  fair  and  winds  propitious;  nor  had  we 
a  rough  sea  or  foul  weather  during  the  passage,  excepting 
the  cobbling  sea  and  hazy  atmosphere  in  what  the  sailors 
denominate  the  horse  latitudes. 

It  would  seem  that  this  agitation  of  the  sea  and  clouded 
atmosphere  are  produced  by  the  encounter  of  adverse  cur- 
rents. The  waters  of  the  great  current  of  the  Orinoco, 
which  is  the  grand  feeder  of  the  Gulf  stream,  do  not  all  flow 
to  the  westward,  and  between  Cape  Catoche  and  Cape  An- 
tonio ;  much  of  those  waters  are  thrown  to  the  N.  E.  and 
pass  through  the  channels  of  the  Windward  Islands  and  the 
Antilles  ;  and  I  suspect  that  the  warmth  which  is  perceptible 
in  those  currents,  brought  from  the  regions  beneath  the  equa- 
tor, meeting  at  those  latitudes  the  currents  from  the  N.  W., 
which  bring  them  within  the  cold  temperature  of  the  north, 
produce  at  once  this  short  and  broken  sea,  and  the  vapour 
which  for  two  days  excluded  the  cheering  rays  of  the  sun. 


IS  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA/ 

The  sailors  assi,^n  as  the  origin  of  the.  name  horse  latitudes, 
that  it  has  been  given  by  those  who,  in  suppl)  ing  horses 
to  the  West  India  islands,  here  often  encountering  a  more 
than  usually  rough  sea,  are  compelled  for  safety  to  throw 
their  cargoes  overboard.  I  am  not  aware  that  this  is  the 
same  maritime  position  to  which  the  Spaniards  give  the  name 
of  El  Mare  de  los  Mulas. 

1'his  bickering  ol  tiie  waves,  which  appeared  trifling  to 
persons  accustomed  to  the  sea,  was  coi^idered  very  rough 
weather  by  those  whose  first  voyage  it  was.  Our  course 
was  not  materially  interrupted,  and  the  third  day  restored  us 
to  sunshine,  and  our  dining  table  to  a  horizontal  position,  and 
the  gallant  ship  again  floated  majestically  on  an  even  keel 
eight  and  ten  knots  an  hour.  Indeed,  the  passage  resem- 
bled more  the  even  movement  of  a  steamboat  on  a  spacious 
river,  than  that  of  a  ship  of  war  on  the  broad  and  often  bois- 
terous Atlantic. 

Our  consort  never  parted  company,  reporting  alongside  at 
sunrise  and  sunset,  and  sometimes  exchanging  visits;  which 
to  some  of  the  passengers  was  very  satisfactory,  under  the 
apprehension  that  wc  might  be  overhauled  by  Spanish  ships 
of  war  ;  an  apprehension  totally  unfounded,  as  there  was  no 
ship  then  in  those  seas  of  sufficient  force  to  encounter  us; 
and  if  there  were,  independent  of  the  importance  of  our  con- 
sort, our  ship  was  completely  equipped,  and  was  soon  after 
putting  to  sea  prepared  for  such  a  contingency  :  our  flag,  it  was 
reasonable  to  think,  would  have  prevented  a  conflict ;  but  if 
the  worst  should  occur,  wc  had  a  heavy  broadside,  an  expe- 
rienced and  intrepid  ship's  company,  and  about  a  dozen  gal- 
lant ofliicers  on  board,  each  competent  to  command,  and  who 
had  seen  some  rough  service  and  given  some  hard  knocks. 

The  sailors  disliking  nothing  so  much  as  lounging  in  their 
hammocks,  or  on  the  spars,  or  the  forecastle,  and  besides  it 
being  good  for  their  health,  the  fine  weather  was  used  to  put 
the  ship  in  fighting  trim.     The  routine  of  discipline,  which 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  13 

is  that  of  the  U.  S.  navy,  in  the  distribution  of  duties  and 
the  assignment  of  stations,  was  soon  accomplished,  and  every 
gun  had  its  captain,  gunner,  and  assistants.  Gangs  of  board- 
ers were  organized,  and  helmets,  hangers,  pikes,  axes,  and 
hand  grenades  distributed.  The  idlers  (that  is,  all  on  board 
who  are  not  of  the  ship's  complement)  were  organized  as 
marines,  furnished  with  rifles,  and  assigned  to  the  poop, 
forecastle,  and  tops ;  and  the  spirit-stirring  drum  beat  all 
hands  to  quarters.  In  an  instant  every  thing  was  in  a  bustle, 
courses  hauled  up,  matches  liglued,  water  tubs  placed,  and 
every  gun  manned.  The  silence  was  as  emphatic  and  im- 
pressive as  the  momentary  agitation.  The  \\ov(\Jire  !  was 
echoed  by  the  roar  of  the  guns ;  and  succeeded  by  the  same 
impressive  silence.  The  guns  being  scaled  and  reloaded, 
the  sham-fight  closed  with  a  real  frolic, — abundance  of  grog 
for  the  ship's  company. 

To  those  who  are  unaccustomed  to  the  "  note  of  prepara- 
tion'* for  military  action,  this  mere  semblance  could  not  but  be 
impressive.  In  the  course  of  the  preparation  Seiiora  Antonia 
requested  the  commodore  to  inform  her  where  she  was  to  take 
her  station  in  case  of  an  action  ?  The  commodore,  with  per- 
fect presence  of  mind,  assured  her  that  she  had  not  been  ne- 
glected ;  that  no  station  on  board  in  time  of  action  was  more 
important  than  the  charge  of  the  magazine,  which  was  never 
entrusted  but  to  the  most  worthy  and  confidential ;  that  this 
charge  would  be  committed  to  herself,  and  Miss  Josephine 
and  Miss  Elizabeth  should  be  her  assistants.  She  appeared  for 
an  instant  satisfied,  but  the  commodore  adding  ;  that  the  ma- 
gazine was  below  the  range  of  shot,  and  therefore  perfectly 
out  of  danger,  the  countenance  of  the  good  lady,  before  per- 
fectly composed,  appeared  to  be  lighted  up  by  indignation, 
and  her  eye  sparkling,  she  exclaimed — "  No  !  no,  Senor 
Commodore  !  no  quiero  ! — mi  nombre  es  Bolivar,  y  mi  lugar 
es  en  frente  del  peligro.^''     No  !  no,  Mr.  Commodore,  this 


Hi  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

must  not  be  ;  my  name  is  Bolivar,  and  when  there  is  danger 
my  station  is  in  front. 

It  was  the  emotion  of  a  moment ;  the  expression  was  ani- 
mated, and  the  effect  electrical ;  it  was  not  until  the  commo- 
dore assured  her  of  a  station  near  himself  on  the  quarter 
deck,  in  case  of  any  adventure,  that  she  was  reconciled.  To 
me  the  incident  wa;>  the  more  rem;irk  iblc,  b;  cause  vvhenthe 
sea  chanced  to  be  agitated  in  the  horse  lattudes  at  nii^ht,  or 
the  ship  leaned  with  a  stift"  breeze,  her  hours  were  devoted 
to  unceasing  prayer  ;  the  holy  rosary  was  repeated,  and  the 
responses  by  her  amiable  daui^hter,  as  long  as  the  ship  was 
any  way  disturbed  in  its  motion. 

On  the  evening  of  the  14th  of  October  the  island  of  Som- 
brero was  distinctly  marked  on  our  starboard  bow  ;  and  we 
changed  our  course  to  the  westward.  On  the  morning  of 
the  15th  Saba  rose  ahead,  apparently  about  the  size  and 
shape  of  an  inverted  teacup  ;  by  one  o'clock  it  was  largely 
defined  to  the  S.  S.  E.  about  ten  miles,  and  as  we  passed  at 
ten  knots  an  hour,  under  our  upper  sails,  the  figure  constant- 
ly changed.  About  five  o'clock  St.  Christophers  and  Ne- 
vis were  in  sight,  and,  in  the  dim  distance,  St.  Eustatia  with 
its  double  summit  S.  W.  The  whole  groupe  of  islands  in 
that  direction,  bore  the  appearance  of  headlands  to  a  conti- 
nuous continent,  and  as  if  stretching  from  S.  E.  to  N.  \V. 

This  navigation  is  so  well  known,  that  nothing  novel 
could  be  said  about  it ;  what  has  been  said  is  intended  ra- 
ther to  show  the  good  judgment  by  which  the  track  was  cho- 
sen, the  facility  of  the  passage,  and  the  short  time  in  which 
it  was  performed.  Our  course  lay  by  the  northward  of  the 
celebrated  ledge,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is  Bird-island  ; 
and  then  parallel  with  its  west  side,  our  course  nearly  south. 

On  the  16th  we  heard  the  surges  beat  against  the  steep 
solitary  rock  of  Orchilla,  distant  about  three  miles  on  our 
larboard  ;  the  boisterous  surf  seemed  to  rage  in  eternal  anger 
at  its  base.     At  half  past  four  we  had  the  first  glimpse  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  15 

terra  frma  on  our  larboard  bow.  The  atmosphere  was  loaded 
Willi  a  bleejjy  vapor,  which  appeared  like  a  curtain  hung  hori- 
zontally about  one  hundred  feet  above  our  topmast  heads ; 
the  space  beneath  dimly  but  distinctly  lighted,  so  that  we 
could  discern  Cipe  Codera  as  if  growing  out  of  the  sea  as  we 
approached  land  ;  after  some  time  it  presented  its  rounded 
sumniit  and  steep  north  lace  to  the  ocean  ;  and  on  the  south 
side  inclined  i^radually  to  the  margin  of  the  shore,  where 
the  view  was  concealed  by  clouds  of  vapor  of  different  light 
and  shjde.  The  lake  of  Ticaragua  lies  to  the  eastward  of 
Cape  Codera  a  few  leagues,  it  is  an  oval  bason  of  twenty  by 
fifteen  mites,  formerly  open  to  the  sea  like  the  Cinegas  of 
Maracaibo  and  La  Hacha,  but  now  only  accessible  in  small 
boats.  This  Cinega  receives  the  waters  of  many  valleys, 
and  particularly  those  of  the  Tuy  and  Caracas.  The  evapora- 
tion Irom  these  waters  1  presume  intercepted  the  view,  and 
gave  the  position  an  appearance  of  an  inland  gulph  or  the 
mouth  of  a  vast  river. 

A  little  farther  west  lies  the  dark  base  of  the  Sierra,  which 
seems  placed  like  a  barrier  against  the  ocean,  which  perjjetu- 
ally  beats  like  a  battering  ram  against  its  feet,  and  retiring 
only  to  return  again  with  never  exhausted  force.  The  coast 
from  Cape  Codera  to  Laguayra,  about  eighty  miles  apart,  has 
an  ample  curve,  more  apparently  regular  than  real ;  nor  do 
the  mountains  rise  so  abruptly  and  precipitous  within  the 
Cape,  as  nearer  to  and  in  front  of  Laguayra.  The  coast  is 
rugged  and  rocky,  westward  of  the  Cape  ;  farther  west  there 
is  some  space  between  the  sea  and  many  recesses  in  the  line 
of  mountains,  upon  which  scenes  of  a  highly  picturesque  char- 
acter are  open  to  the  sea :  many  small  plantations  covered 
with  verdure,  and  trees  too  minute  to  tell  their  character  or 
class ;  rocky  cliffs  again  appear ;  and  not  less  than  seventeen 
small  rivers  issue  from  the  Sierra,  some  of  which  carry  boats 
two  or  three  miles  inland  through  those  narrow  valleys,  that 
seem  crevices  in  the  mountain,   and  along  the  margin  of 


16  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

which  are  fine  fields  of  su^ar  cane  and  cacao  plantations  ; 
near  Caravellada,  the  |)Osiiion  at  first  selected  lor  a  port  on 
this  coast,  cultivation  is  more  extensive,  and  the  coast  is 
composed  of  detached  hills  which  bear  their  verdure  to  their 
summits.  De  Pons  has  {^iven  a  concise  account  of  the  cause  of 
its  abandonment,  which  becomes  of  more  interest  from  the 
events  that  have  since  taken  place,  than  when  he  narrated  it,  as 
it  corroborates  the  declarations  of  intelligent  men,  that  notwith- 
standin,s^  the  iron  despotism  of  the  Spjnish  government,  and 
the  more  galling  tyranny  of  its  deputies,  there  was  always 
in  S.  America  a  latent  spirit  which  required  only  a  spark  to 
kindle  it  into  a  general  blaze.  Caravellada  was  established 
by  Losada  in  1568,  and  had  a  caljildo  or  corporation  :  the 
members  of  cabildos  throughout  America  were  elected  by 
the  people.  In  1586,  Roxas  the  governor  undertook  to  di- 
vest the  people  of  the  right  of  election,  and  appointed  alcaldes 
himself,  ordering  the  four  regidors  to  be  arrested.  The  peo- 
ple assembled  and  came  to  an  unanimous  resolution  to  aban- 
don the  place,  and  they  fulfilled  their  engagement,  retiring 
to  Caracas,  Vulentia,  and  other  places.  The  affair  being 
made  knoun  in  Spain,  the  regidors  were  released,  and  the 
inhabitants  invited  to  return  ;  they  never  returned  ;  but 
some  of  them  selecting  the  position  of  Laguayra,  it  be- 
came the  port  of  entry  and  clearance  for  Caracas,  and  has 
continued  to  be.  The  places  of  note  west  of  Laguayra  are 
Catia,  Arrecifes,  La  Cruz,  Coroni,  Ocumare  bay,  Turia- 
mo,  Barbaruta,  and  Porto  Cabello. 

The  veil  which  appeared  suspended  above  us,  now  seemed 
to  rise  and  expose  the  summit  of  the  first  ranges  of  the  Sierra, 
holding  vast  fleeces  of  snow-white  clouds  behind  them,  and 
concealing  ranges  in  yet  greater  elevation  and  remote  succes- 
sion, which  soon  appeared  in  more  distinctness,  but  still  clad 
with  clouds  in  the  utmost  distance.  The  line  of  the  Sierra 
Avilla,  which  is  the  mountain  that  separates  Caracas  from 
the  coast,  was  now  clearly  defined,  but  the  Silla,  like  a  coy 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  17 

damsel  of  the  region,  still  retired  her  head,  scarcely  con- 
cealed by  a  gauzy  veil,  the  skirt  of  which  flared  in  the  air  to 
the  south-west.  A  brighter  light  above,  and  the  shadows 
of  the  mountain  upon  the  glassy  waters  followed,  and  pre- 
sented a  most  sublime  spectacle — still  further  adorned  by 
the  lofty  Silla,  which  had  now  cast  its  veil  of  clouds  away, 
and  exposed  its  double  summit  to  the  admiring  visitor. 

Along  the  mountain  foot  a  white  vanishing  line  appeared — 
it  was  the  beating  surf,  not  yet  to  be  distinguished  by  the 
ear.  No  level  space  for  human  foot  was  visible  between 
the  steep  declivity  and  unceasing  surge.  Drawing  still 
nearer,  the  eye  is  engaged  by  a  brighter  steady  white  line  on 
the  sea  verge ;  and  behind,  the  appearance  of  a  longer,  higher 
range,  of  less  distinctness — it  is  the  long  rantpart  thi.t  marks 
the  port  and  the  town  of  Laguayra,  which  seems  stiick  up 
against  the  face  of  the  steep.  Attracted  to  the  right,  a  small 
promontory  tlirust  into  the  sea,  appears  covered  with  Palmyra 
palms,  which  half  conceal  housf^s  in  the  rear,  on  higher 
ground.  It  is  Maquiteia,  a  handsome  village  about  half  a 
mile  west  of  Laguayra.  Before  the  eye  is  satisfied  in  con- 
templating this  refreshing  tropical  picture,  the  objects  appear 
more  distinct  and  enlarged ;  but  the  face  of  the  mountain 
between  Maquiteia  and  Laguayra  displays  a  dreary  and  deso- 
late aspect,  of  dusky  and  grey  shades;  projecting  rocks  and 
broken  red  and  yellow  soil,  sterile  and  destitute  of  verdure, 
as  if  the  ocean  had  been  pelting  at  it  for  ages,  and  left  it  alike 
bare  of  fruits  and  of  vegetation.  There  are  however,  scat- 
tered on  distant  spots,  three  or  four  species  of  Cactus,  im- 
perceptible in  the  distance  ;  and  some  Agaves  or  American 
Aloes,  have  seized  upon  some  "  coi.^ns  cf  vantage,"  and 
with  giant  arms  hold  places  in  their  ndtivc  soil. 

The  whole  line  of  coast  from  Cape  Codera  is  now  dis- 
played, and  west  of  Maquiteia,  about  three  miles,  stands 
Cape  Blanco,  but  with  less  altitude  than  made  it  formerly 
remarkable :  it  was  sometimes  spoken  of  as  the  west  horn 


18  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  a  bay,  of  which  Codf^ra  was  the  east ;  but  without  any 
other  than  a  remote  similitude. 

The  Silla  is  now  also  more  distinct,  and  the  form  of  its 
summit,  which  has  been  named  from  a  distant  resemblance 
to  a  saddle,  here  gives  its  shape  distinctly  ;  the  eastern  sum- 
mit being  the  highest,  is  said  to  resemble  the  fore  part  or 
pommel  of  a  saddle,  and  the  western  or  lowest  summit  com- 
pared to  the  cantle  or  hind  part  of  the  seat.  The  shore  is 
no  longer  still  nor  silent,  the  roar  of  the  beating  surf  is  un- 
ceasing ;  and  there  appears  a  space  between  the  surge  and 
the  mountain  which  presents  a  picture  as  minute,  busy,  and 
agitated  as  an  anthill  whose  inmates  are  disturbed.  Men 
and  mules  are  the  actors  in  this  busy  scene  ;  a  spacious 
causeway,  the  product  of  very  great  and  judiciously  applied 
labour,  leads  from  the  postern  or  Caracas  gate  to  Maquitcia, 
and  is  also  the  high  road  to  Caracas.  As  seen  from  the  dis- 
tance, it  appears  no  broader  than  a  ribbon,  though  it  is,  in 
many  places,  60  and  100  feet  broad,  and  is  constructed  about 
ten  feet  above  the  ordinary  water  line. 

As  the  sun  gained  the  south- west,  the  shadows  of  the 
Sierra  slanted  along  the  coast  to  the  eastward,  and  left  the 
horizon  bright  and  clear,  and,  about  two  o'clock  of  the  18th, 
we  came  to  anchor  with  14  fathoms  of  cable  out,  in  a  posi- 
tion about  equidistant  from  Laguayra  and  Maquiteia,  and  a 
mile  from  the  shore.  The  three  fortifications  behind  the 
town,  the  works  in  front,  and  the  village  of  Palms  on  our 
right,  were  now  perfectly  distinct,  and  proportionably  inte- 
resting. The  warmth  of  the  glowing  sun,  the  bright  at- 
mosphere, and  the  grove  of  palms,  gave  to  me  an  Ori- 
ental resemblance  ;  and  all  appeared  to  more  advantage, 
except  the  battered  aspect  of  the  Sierra,  on  nearer  approach. 
The  recess,  or  scooped  out  space  of  the  mountain,  in  the 
rear  of  the  town,  eastward,  seemed  more  depressed,  than 
when  seen  from  the  distance,  and  the  principal  fortress  on 
the  shoulder  of  the  mountain  had  the  appearance  of  a  regu- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  11) 

lar  work.  I  did  not  attempt  to  visit  either,  the  ascent  ap- 
pearing to  me  rather  difficult  for  goats.  They  appear  less 
perpendicular  on  shore;  but,  for  military  purposes,  their 
shot  would  not  reach  the  anchorage,  and  could  therefore  be 
of  no  use,  unless  to  batter  an  enemy  in  possession  of  the 
town,  in  the  rear. 

The  fortification  on  the  margin  of  the  sea,  in  front  of  the 
town,  appears  to  have  been  originally  a  palanka  thrown  up 
to  mask  the  main  street,  with  which  it  runs  parallel:  the  ram- 
part now  is  a  well  constructed  curtain  of  masonry,  without 
bastions,  but  it  has  a  curved  outward  segment  of  a  circle,  of 
which  the  diameter  may  be  seventy  yirds,  and  the  radius  six 
or  eight  feet ;  not  sufficient  to  enfilade  either  flank  with  ef- 
fect. It  is  casematcd,  the  masonry  arched  and  bomb  proof; 
the  surf  eternally  beats  its  foundation  and  dashes  the  spray 
over  the  rampart,  which  is  without  embrasures.  The  case- 
mates beneath,  as  may  be  presumed,  are  for  ever  dripping. 
It  was  in  these  horrible  casemates,  the  gallant  patriots  of  the 
revolution  were  incarcerated,  while  the  Spaniards  held  the 
place  ;  and  it  was  also  the  prison,  often  the  grave,  of  men  of 
virtue,  before  the  revolution.  Melancholy,  however  just,  has 
been  the  retaliation  ;  had  the  deputy  tyrants,  who  gave  the 
example,  been  themselves  the  objects  of  retriliution,  hu- 
manity would  have  no  cause  to  lament  them  ;  but  experience 
appears  not  to  have  had  any  effect  upon  the  Spanish  chiefs ; 
who,  persuaded  and  careful  that  retaliation  should  not  reach 
themselves,  from  the  precautions  always  made  to  insure  their 
own  escape,  felt  no  concern  nor  sympathy  for  their  country- 
men, involved  in  the  consequences  of  their  barbarity. 

There  were  but  a  few  guns  mounted  ;  a  considerable  num- 
ber had  been  transferred  upon  other  service.  The  work  it. 
self  appears  to  more  advantage  on  inspection,  though  the  only 
skill  manifest  is  the  workmanship  of  the  masonry  and  the 
casemates.  I  had  assimilated  the  appearance  of  Funchal  in 
Madeira  from  its  road  with  that  of  Laguayra,  by  wluch  many 


20  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

years  ago  I  had  been  deceived  in  the  external  appearance  , 
but  as  Funchal  proved  to  be  very  much  worse  on' shore  than 
it  promised  at  the  distance,  I  found  myself,  by  the  false  as- 
sociation, again  deceived  ;  for  Laguayra  proved  to  be  much 
better  within  than  it  appeared  from  without. 

But  I  am  rambling  into  a  description  of  what  is  on  shore 
before  I  have  yet  landed.  Upon  coming  to  anchor  the  two 
ships  saluted,  and  were  answered  from  the  citadel.  The 
numerous  ships  in  the  road  hoisted  their  colours,  and  in  the 
van  we  recognized  with  particular  satisfaction  the  U.  S. 
Corvette  Cyane,  captain  Robert  Spence,  who  while  we 
were  at  Caracas  did  so  much  honour  to  his  flag,  his  country, 
and  himself,  by  his  prompt,  manly,  eloquent,  and  effective 
repulse  of  the  outrageous  menaces  put  forth  in  a  proclama- 
tion, by  the  Spanish  general  Morales ;  menaces  which  he 
dared  not  to  realize  thereafter. 

The  hour  of  our  arrival,  and  the  bustle  incident  to  entering 
port  from  the  sea,  rendered  it  prudent  for  the  ladies  to  defer 
going  on  shore  that  evening  ;  but  on  the  19th  in  the  morning 
betimes  the  custom-house  barge  was  along-side,  and  Seno- 
ra  Bolivar  and  her  family  were  conveyed  on  shore,  and  the 
other  cabin  passengers,  whom  she  invited,  accompanied  her. 

The  landing  at  Laguayra  has  been  held  forth  as  unusually 
dangerous.  Those  who  have  had  occasion  to  land  at  St. 
Helena  or  at  Madras,  would  consider  it  as  a  matter  of  very 
little  difficulty  at  the  worst,  and  we  landed  without  any  in- 
convenience whatever.  The  mode  of  landing  from  boats  in 
common,  is  upon  a  stairs,  attached  to  the  side  of  a  long  wharf, 
which  is  projected  on  piles  160  or  170  feet  into  the  sea  :  the 
boatmen  are  skilful,  they  place  the  boat  in  such  a  position 
as  to  swing  with  the  rising  swell  to  the  side  of  the  stairs,  and 
the  passenger  seizes  the  instant  before  the  surf  recedes  to  jump 
or  step  on  shore.  Some  accidents  have  occurred,  but  more 
through  inexperience  in  the  boatmen,  or  want  of  self-posses> 
sion  in  the  passenger,  than  any  other  cause.     We  landed  in 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  Si 

a  manner  such  as  I  had  seen  practised  in  Sandy  Cove,  St. 
Helena,  by  the  boats  of  some  American  whalers,  one  ol  a 
company  who  made  a  party  of  pleasure  round  that  island  in 
1795,  where  I  was  detained  three  months.  Upon  approach- 
ing the  beach,  the  boat  was  rowed  in,  stern  foremost,  so  as 
that  the  coming  surge  should  carry  her  in  full  swing  upon 
the  strand.  It  was  executed  with  skill ;  the  moment  the 
boat  touched  ground  the  rowers  cast  their  oars  into  the  re- 
tiring surf,  and  held  the  boat  to  prevent  her  floating  off. 
Before  the  surge  could  return,  each  boatman  took  a  lady 
upon  his  arm,  as  a  nurse  would  take  a  child,  and  placed  her 
safe  above  the  water  line ;  the  returning  surge  brought  back 
the  oars,  and  the  boat  floated  off  with  the  retiring  wave. 

The  time  surely  cannot  be  remote  when  the  citizens  and 
proprietors  of  Caracas  and  its  rich  neighbourhood  will  per- 
ceive how  much  they  are  interested  in  forming  a  commodi- 
ous and  secure  harbour  at  Laguayra.  Nature,  which  has 
prepared  so  much  in  the  rough  for  man  to  finish,  has  provi- 
ded already  one  spacious  mole  in  the  little  promontory  of 
Maquiteia ;  the  materials  for  another  are  on  the  spot ;  and 
a  port  capable  of  protecting  a  thousand  sail  of  the  line  from 
the  worst  storms  of  the  Caribbean  sea,  may  be  formed  at  a 
less  expense  of  money  than  such  a  work  could  be  executed 
so  near  a  great  city  in  any  part  of  the  globe. 

Having  landed,  we  had  the  gratification  to  find,  very  unex- 
pectedly, several  acquaintances  and  friends  waiting  to  greet 
us,  some  of  them  from  Caracas,  fifteen  miles  distant.  The 
respectable  consul  of  the  United  States,  R.  K.  Lowry,  among 
the  rest ;  he  had  already  fixed  it,  that  Elizabeth  should, 
during  her  stay,  reside  with  her  townswoman,  Mrs.  Lowry, 
at  Maquiteia,  and  such  arrangements  had  been  made  for  ail 
our  accommodation  as  left  us  nothing  to  wish  for. 

Commodore  Daniels,  untired  by  the  civilities  rendered 
us  on  board,  received  us  at  the  water-gate,  and  conducted 
us  to  the  quarters  of"  the  commandant,  to  whom  he  intro- 


S3  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

duced  us,  and  by  whom  we  were  received  with  soldierly 
courtesy.  Colonel appeared  to  be  about  twenty- 
eight  years  of  age,  tall,  slender,  and  perfectly  military  in  his 
costume  and  demeanor;  he  is  one  of  the  numerous  youths 
who  have  been  born  at  the  right  time  to  distinguish  them- 
selves, under  the  e^c  of  liolivar,  in  the  battles  and  triumphs 
of  independence.  This  class  of  men,  created  by  the  revolu- 
tion, are  by  a  sagacious  policy  placed  in  stations  of  confi- 
dence and  honour,  where  the  habits  of  military  vigilance,  or- 
der, and  punctuality  are  acquired,  and  which  will  prepare 
habile  men  for  the  public  service,  to  supply  the  places  of 
the  defenders  of  liberty,  which  the  order  of  nature  will 
ere  long  vacate  among  their  seniors  in  the  revolution. 

The  quarters  of  the  commandant  are  spacious ;  they  oc- 
cupy the  north  west  angle  of  the  line  of  defence,  and  are 
covered  below  by  a  breast- work  of  good  masonry  with  em- 
brasures, which  covers  the  postern  gate  and  causeway  on 
the  west,  and  the  landing  on  the  north  or  sea  front.  A  pas- 
sage of  fourteen  or  fifteen  feet  forms  a  sort  of  covert  way, 
and  separates  the  rampart  from  the  house,  which  is  of  stone, 
and  two  stories  high,  the  lower  of  which  is  masked  by  the 
breast- works  ;  these  are  the  offices  for  domestic  uses,  storage, 
&;c.  The  upper  story  is  the  residence,  to  which  the  ascent  is 
by  a  double  flight  of  spacious  stairs  at  the  west  end,  which 
terminate  in  an  ample  saloon,  covering  the  west  front  and 
open  upon  the  sea  to  the  north  ;  the  apartments,  which  are 
lofty,  are  entered  from  the  saloon,  and  lie  in  the  direction 
east  and  west — a  verandah,  or  open  gallery,  fronting  on  the 
sea.  The  style  of  building,  the  pavements,  the  high  fold- 
ing doors,  the  broad  staircase,  and  the  elevation  of  the  apart- 
ments, with  the  naked  timbers  of  the  structure,  brought  to 
my  mind  the  strong  resemblances  of  what  I  had  seen  many 
years  before  in  different  parts  of  Asia.  • 

After  paying  our  respects,  and  partaking  of  the  good  Cata- 
lonian  wine  of  the  commandant,  and  the  excellent  sweetmeats 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  23 

of  his  good  lady,  we  retired  to  meet  with  fresh  evidences  of 
the  hospitahty  we  were  to  receive  without  anticipating  them. 
A  friend  had  sent  from  Caracas,  a  well- trained  grey  mule, 
tastefully  caparisoned  with  a  handsome  side  saddle,  which 
was  to  be  for  the  use  of  my  daughter  during  her  stay  at  Ca- 
racas ;  and  upon  this  she  made  her  first  equestrian  essay,  by 
galloping  off  with  a  gay  young  party  to  Maquiteia,  where 
she  was  received  by  her  friend  Mrs.  Lowry.  I  had  felt 
some  disquiet  for  Elizabeth,  looking  to  the  long  journey  of 
thirteen  hundred  miles,  which  she  was  to  perform  on  the 
backs  of  mules  only  ;  but  this  first  essay  satisfied  me,  and 
the  event  justified  the  conclusion,  for  she  made  the  journey 
with  much  less  fatigue  than  1  did. 

While  we  were  paying  our  respects  to  the  commandant, 
our  baggage  had,  through  the  care  of  our  worthy  consul, 
been  transferred  to  the  custom-house,  where,  as  a  testimony 
of  respect,  it  was  exempted  from  the  usual  search,  and  de- 
posited in  the  stores  of  the  consul.  The  manner  of  landing 
the  baggage  reminded  me  of  the  same  kind  of  transaction 
at  the  ghauts  of  Pondicherry  and  Calcutta.  Upon  the  ap- 
proach of  the  baggage  boat  to  the  landing  place,  a  crowd  of 
men  and  boys,  of  every  shade  of  complexion  and  apparel, 
rushed  forward  in  a  tumult,  and  each  seizing  the  article 
nearest  hand,  bore  it  away,  until  there  was  no  more  to  carry, 
and  deposited  them  at  the  custom-house ;  where  those  that 
underwent  examination  were  removed  as  the  owner  direct- 
ed. The  mode  of  payment  was  in  the  same  oriental  style. 
The  consul,  who  undertook  to  do  for  us  as  his  experience 
and  our  want  of  it  induced  him,  having  provided  himself 
with  a  sufficient  sum  in  the  macutimi,  or  silver  currency,  of 
the  country,  commenced  with  calling  to  him  the  porters  who 
had  brought  the  largest  loads,  and,  in  succession,  handed 
each  according  to  service  a  real,  a  media,  or  c/uartiUa ;  the 
real  is  our  disme  or  eighth  of  a  dollar,  the  media  is  the  half 
of  a  real,  and  the  quartilla,  a  fourth  of  the  real.  I  shall  take 
some  further  notice  of  this  currency  in  another  place. 


24 


CHAPTER  II. 

Delay  at  Laguayra  at>Tccable. — Mules  here  perform  the  services  of  horset, 
cart";,  coaches,  aii'l  wagons  in  other  countries. — Enter  the  town  by  a  short 
steep  street  to  the  main  street — described — stores  and  other  buildingii  Asiatic 
style — ruins  from  Earthquake,  1812 — Military  works — accommodation  at  Ho- 
tels— 'ixpciises — better  than  in  any  public  houses  in  the  interior — absence  of 
musquitoes  and  flies — mixUire  of  ancient  and  modern  furniture — absence  of 
■wlieel  carriages — the  want  of  roads — a  carriage  road  and  rail  road  proposed 
through  the  valley  of  Tipe. — Hail  roads  unsuitable  to  a  large  country. — 
Carts  introduced  at  Petare. — Houses  of  stone  unaffected  by  Eartliquake. 
— Public  fountains  abundant — good  water. — Humboldt  exaggerates — not  im- 
moderately warm  in  October — more  dependence  on  thermometers  than 
is  justifiable. — Madras,  Calcutta,  and  Batavia,  extremely  hot  compared  with 
Laguayra — prevalence  of  diseases  also  exaggerated — no  marshes  nor  marine 
vegetables  contiguous. — Incident  at  Barbaruta. — Rival  towns  calumniate  each 
other. — The  effect  of  Spanish  policy. — A  whole  country  prospers  by  the 
prosperity  of  any  of  its  parts. — Hints  to  visiters  of  the  tropical  regions. — Dif- 
ferent views  of  tlie  great  mortality  in  the  Earthquake. — Appearance  of  the 
military — anecdote  of  two  sentinels — soldiers  compared  with  the  sepahis  of  In- 
dia.— Laguayra  may  be  made  a  spacious  and  safe  harbour — the  interests  of 
Caracas  and  proprietors  to  estabhsh  such  a  harbour. 

Though  the  voyage  was  but  a  party  of  pleasure,  the 
novelty  of  the  new  country  and  manners,  but,  above  all,  the 
kindness  of  old  and  new  friends,  rendered  the  delay  of  one 
or  two  days  agreeable  ;  which  we  must  wait  for  the  return 
of  mules  from  Caracas,  as  is  customary,  on  stated  days.  Tiiis 
invaluable  animal  performs  all  the  services,  which,  in  other 
countries,  employ  wagons,  carts,  coaches,  postchaises,  and 
even  wheelbarrows,  as  well  as  those  of  horses  for  business  or 
pleasure.  Our  shipmates  too  did  not  wish  to  separate  with- 
out the  participation  of  a  cheerful  dinner  and  a  parting 
glass.  I  had  therefore  an  opportunity  to  see  the  interior,  as 
I  had  already  seen  the  exterior  of  Laguayra. 

There  are  three  gates  of  entrance  to  the  town  :  that  at  the 
east  of  the  works  is  seldom  opened  but  for  public  uses,  and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  25 

is  not  a  thoroughfare.  The  principal  entrance  for  strangers 
coming  from  sea,  and  for  baggage  and  merchandize,  is  the 
water-gate.  This  gate  has  in  front,  upon  the  margin  of  the 
sea,  a  broad  and  spacious  platform  of  stone  masonry ;  and 
the  wharf,  erected  upon  piles,  extending  into  the  surf,  more 
than  160  feet  in  length.  A  short  street  or  lane  leads  up 
from  the  water-gate  towards  the  main  street ;  the  custom- 
house is  at  the  right  side  of  the  entrance,  and  a  sort  of  picket 
guard  occupies  the  left ;  above,  on  the  right,  opens  the  pas- 
sage to  the  commandant's  quarters  ;  and  at  the  head  of  this 
short  street  commences  the  main  street,  which  leads  off  to 
the  eastward  about  half  a  mile.  The  continuation  of  the 
short  entering  street  is  about  30  feet  broad,  but  is  prolong- 
ing up  the  ascent,  only  reduced  to  about  15  or  16  feet,  all 
admirably  well  paved.  The  houses  on  the  main  street,  on 
the  right  side,  and  in  front  of  the  entrance,  are  principally 
occupied  by  merchanls's  stores,  and  have  the  exact  appear- 
ance of  the  Godoxvns  or  stores  in  the  Asiatic  cities ;  long 
and  spacious,  admitting  light  only  through  the  folding  doors 
in  front,  and  of  one  story  ;  thougli  there  are  many  houses 
in  this  range  of  two,  and  very  good  of  their  bt}le  of  struc- 
ture. 

There  is  a  slight  descent  to  the  eastward  in  this  part  of 
the  street,  and  the  line  is  not  direct,  nor  the  breadth  equal, 
it  being  in  some  places  only  twenty  feet  broad,  towards  the 
east  end  broader.  The  left  side  of  the  street,  at  the  point 
of  entrance,  is  also  occupied  by  stores  and  dwelling  houses, 
but  the  line  is  very  much  broken  by  ruins,  which  remain 
since  the  earthquake  of  1812;  in  several  the  rubbish  is 
thrown  into  the  space  between  the  remaining  walls  ;  but  the 
streets  are  all  cleared. 

On  the  outer  side,  bounding  on  the  sea,  is  the  line  of  de- 
fence, a  broad  platform  of  good  workmanship,  separated  from 
the  houses  by  a  parapet.  The  breast  work  in  front  is  with- 
out  embrasures,  and  extends  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 

4 


26  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  space  between  the  line  of  the  street  being  gradually  more 
open,  and  leaving  a  convenient  space  for  a  parade,  Ixtween 
the  casemates  and  the  rear  of  the  habitations.  Nothing  need 
be  added  of  description  to  what  has  been  already  noted  of 
this  work.  The  garrison  was  but  slender,  and  barely  suffi- 
cient to  supply  sentinels  for  the  chief  entrances,  for  the 
works,  and  for  purposes  of  police ;  a  few  guns  remain  on 
the  platform,  in  rather  an  unsightly  state,  at  least  to  those 
who  are  accustomed  to  the  discipline  and  order  of  well  re- 
gulated garrisons. 

What  I  have  said  of  the  stores,  apj)lies  to  the  general 
style  of  building,  narrow  streets,  paved  porches  or  entrances, 
paved  pattos,  or  open  squares  within  the  gates,  corridores  on 
all  sides  of  ihose  squares  :  broad  stairs  of  coarse  masonry,  of 
double  flights,  with  a  landing :  high  and  long  halls,  and  narrow 
and  retired  sleeping  apartments,  rude  and  cumbrous  furni- 
ture, and  naked  walls,  with  tiled  floors  : — these  points  of 
oriental  similitude  are  common,  and  applicable  to  all  the  places 
I  have  passed  through  ;  and  it  is  curious  matter  of  fact,  in  elu- 
cidation of  the  influence  of  habits,  and  the  spirit  of  imitation, 
that  these  forms  should  remain  for  so  many  centuries  little 
altered  from  their  Asiatic  prototypes  in  Spain,  which  hold  the 
same  unaltered  characteristics  to  this  day. 

I  may  have  occasion  to  notice  the  style  of  building  more 
particularly  in  another  chapter.  The  stranger  Avho  lands 
here  is  very  fortunate,  though  he  may  not  think  so,  when  he 
enters  one  of  the  hotels  at  Laguayra,  for  in  fact  there  is  no 
other  equal  to  them,  in  the  whole  line  of  the  journey.  There 
are  two,  one  kept  by  a  Frenchman,  at  whose  table  I  partook  of 
a  well  provided  entertainment.  He  was  not  a  novice  in  any 
part  of  his  business,  and  his  native  talent  had  been  much 
improved,  by  a  residence  in  the  British  islands  of  the  West 
Indies.  The  company  was  about  thirty,  and  the  table  was 
covered  with  an  abundance  of  excellent  provisions,  well 
cooked  and  displayed,  and  more  than  sufficient  for  double  the 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  27 

company  ;  the  free  circulation  of  the  bottle,  in  the  British 
West  India  fashion,  was  already  before  the  dessert ;  but  the 
dessert  was  excellent,  and  the  coffee  introduced  in  the  French 
mode  was  perfect. 

The  expences  are  not  so  high  as  in  the  West  Indies  ;  but 
as  there  is  no  tariff  of  prices,  the  eye  and  opinion  of  the  fi- 
nancier, regulates  the  charges  according  to  the  apparent 
newness  of  the  traveller,  his  real,  or  presumed  opulence  ;  but, 
above  all,  by  that  principle  of  the  economists,  that  demand 
governs  price ;  so  that  if  there  are  ft w  sliips  and  few  stran- 
gers, the  price  is  reduced  to  the  demand  ;  but  if  there  be 
many  strangers  prices  rise. 

A  stranger  may,  so  far  as  the  tabic  is  concerned,  fare  very 
well ;  but  he  who  has  not  made  up  his  mind  to  dispense  with 
a  pallet  and  fresh  sheets,  after  leaving  Laguuyra,  must  re- 
solve to  do  so  or  go  no  farther ;  for  he  will  find  no  ac- 
commodations in  a  public  house  of  entertainment  equal  to 
it,  in  the  long  range  of  near  2000  niiUs,  which  I  visited. 
Comforts  of  this  kind  are  to  be  found  only  in  private  dwel- 
lings. The  climate  is  however  an  excuse  for  indifference ; 
the  air  is  light,  the  respiration  free,  and  favourable  to  plea- 
sant repose.  I  have  heard  there  were  musqiiitoes  at  La- 
guayra,  but  I  declare  that  there,  or  in  the  whole  rout  of  1200 
railes  to  Bogota,  I  saw  no  musquitoes,  nor  was  I  plagued 
with  the  common  fly  which  annoy  us  d  iring  the  summer 
season  in  northern  climates.  I  lound  musquitoes  abundant 
on  the  Magdalcna,  and  flies  for  the  first  time  at  Curthagena. 

Neither  is  the  furniture  of  any  kind  so  good  in  the  interi- 
or as  at  Laguayra,  where  contiguity  to  the  sea  has  admitted 
articles  not  to  be  found  in  the  interior,  because  neither  will 
the  roads  admit,  nor  the  mules  be  able  to  carry  articles  of 
bulk,  or  unusual  weight.  A  bureau  or  a  sideboard,  a  hand- 
some sofa,  or  a  piano  forte,  must  therefore  be  transported  on 
the  heads  and  shoulders  of  men.  Some  articles  of  this  de- 
scription have  thereiore  remained,  because  the  expencc  might 


2S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

be  greater  than  the  sacrifice.  Mercantile  men,  therefore, 
should  not  send  articles  which  are  not  transportable  by  mules, 
but  in  such  boxes  or  packages  as  that  two  shall  not  exceed 
250  pounds  weight,  which  may  be  carried  to  Caracas  for  two 
dollars,  more  or  less,  as  the  circumstances  determine.  But 
these  articles  of  modern  taste  do  not  appear  to  advantage ; 
an  elegant  sofa  alongside  a  coarse  plank  table,  the  finest  im- 
plement which  had  passed  over  it  was  the  saw  or  the  jack  ;  a 
mahogany  toilette  table  and  swinging  glass  with  a  joint-stool, 
the  seat  of  which  is  higher  than  the  table,  are  ill-assorted  ; 
and  the  best  chair  to  be  found  any  where  is  that  which  is 
called  the  Windsor  chair,  put  out  of  good  company  among 
us  for  twenty  years,  and  very  scarce  in  any  part  of  South 
America  till  the  revolution  of  1810  opened  the  market. 

The  absence  of  wheel-carriages  produces  at  first  a  sense 
of  deficiency  without  perceiving  in  what ;  but  roads  must 
precede  carriages,  and  I  have  repeatedly  met  on  my  route 
handsome  pieces  of  artillery  lying  in  a  ditch,  where  they 
had  been  dragged  by  infinite  labour,  and  could  not  be  carried 
upon  wheels  farther.  A  road  was  many  years  ago  proposed 
to  be  carried  from  Caracas  to  Laguayra  through  the  Qiichra- 
da  or  chasm  of  Tipe,  a  small  distance  west  of  Maquiteia, 
which  would  admit  of  a  fine  wagon  and  coach  road  with  a 
very  slight  inclination  ;  some  part  of  it  was  begun,  but  it  re- 
mains incomplete.  A  recent  proposition  has  been  made  to  es- 
tablish a  rail  road  there,  a  mode  of  transport  adapted  only  to 
short  distances,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  dense  population  and 
the  arts ;  not  at  all  adapted  to  the  position  ;  but  where  wagons 
and  carts  of  an  improved  and  suitable  form  would  be  infi- 
nitely beneficial ;  and  these  have  become,  and  must  every 
day  become  more  necessary  in  proportion  with  the  inevita- 
ble  augmentation  of  production  and  commerce.  Mr.  Alder- 
son.  who  resides  at  Petare,  seven  miles  east  from  Caracas, 
has  introduced  some  excellent  carts  made  for  the  purpose  in 
Philadelphia,  and  has  employed  them  on  his  own  plantation 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  29 

and  business,  but  it  will  be  some  time  before  he  will  have 
imitators,  such  is  the  force  of  inveterate  habits ;  until  neces- 
sity or  some  rival  impulse  overcomes  them. 

Near  the  east  end  of  Laguayra  the  main  street  opens  into  an 
ampler  breadth,  and  presents  a  portly  church,  remarkable  for 
nothing  in  its  architecture,  but  that,  though  much  more  ele- 
vated in  its  structure  than  any  other  building,  it  appears  to 
have  remained  uninjured  by  the  earthquake  of  1812. 

The  public  fountains,  such  as  are  to  be  found  in  all  the 
principal  cities  and  towns,  flow  with  abundance  of  limpid 
water,  so  conducive  to  cleanliness  and  health,  and  which 
many  of  the  principal  cities,  such  as  Caracas,  San  Carlos, 
Truxillo,  Merida,  and  Bogota  appear  to  have  been  provi- 
dent  in  securing  at  the  founding  of  those  places,  whose 
streets  are  constantly  cleaned  and  refreshed  by  living  streams 
flowing  through  the  channels  of  their  pavements. 

The  celebrated  Humboldt  has  contributed  so  much  more 
than  any  other  traveller  to  make  the  curious  familiar  with  the 
southern  parts  of  the  new  world,  that  it  would  appear  ungen- 
erous and  hazardous  to  dispute  any  observations  he  has 
made.  But,  under  a  persuasion  that  he  would  not  be  him- 
self displeased  to  see  his  ideas  canvassed  or  his  theories  dis- 
puted with  freedom  and  good  will,  I  shall  not  hesitate  to 
express  my  own  opinions,  though  they  may  not  concur  with 
his.  From  what  he  has  said  of  the  temperature  of  Laguay- 
ra, compared  with  my  own  observations  there  and  in  other 
parts  of  the  world  to  which  he  has  referred,  I  apprehend  he 
must  have  landed  at  Laguayra  under  circumstances  unfa- 
vourable to  an  accurate  judgment.  His  stay  in  Laguayra 
did  not  amount  to  more  than  three  or  four  hours,  for  he 
landed  on  the  21st  of  November,  in  the  evening,  (Person. 
Nar.  vol.  IH.  p.  381,)  and  was  at  Caracas  the  same  day. 
He  was  indeed  informed  by  some  persons  there  that  the 
yellow-fever  had  only  ceased  a  few  weeks ;  and  advised  not 
to  stay,  by  some  one  who  stiiyed  himself.     His  account,  or 


30  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

his  theory  of  the  heat  at  tliat  place,  are  tlierefore  not  the  re 
suit  of  his  own  observations  or  sensations,  but  formed  upon 
the  records  of  thermonietrical  observations  of  others.  It 
may  be  a  sort  of  philosophical  heresy  to  entertain  but  little 
dependance  on  thermonietrical  data  ;  thouj^h  they  may  serve 
for  approximations  to  general  inferences,  the  inequality  and 
disagreement  between  instruments  made  and  graduated  in 
different  countries,  and  between  those  made  by  the  same 
artist,  is  such  as  to  justify  this  incredulity.  I  have  com- 
pared twenty  different  instruments  of  the  same  maker,  in  or- 
der to  serve  a  friend  who  wished  for  the  most  perfect  instru- 
ments,  and  am  justified  in  the  conclusion  I  make  from  that 
experience  as  well  as  from  residence  in  some  of  the  warmest 
climates  of  the  globe.  We  landed  at  Laguayra  the  19th  of 
October,  and  if  there  could  be  any  material  difference  in  the 
temperature  in  the  period  of  one  month,  it  must  in  the  or- 
dinary course  be  warmer  in  October  than  in  November. 
We  remained  there  three  days,  and  in  that  time  1  have  pre- 
ferrcd  walking,  at  all  hours,  to  riding,  and  have  felt  not  so 
much  inconvenience  in  going  on  foot  from  Laguayra  along 
the  paved  causeway  in  front  of  the  arid  sierra  to  Maquiteia, 
than  I  have  experienced  in  a  like  distance  in  Philadelphia  in 
June  or  July.  A  parasol  might  be  acceptable,  but  I  felt  no 
inconvenience  without  one.  At  Madras,  or  Calcutta,  or  from 
the  pier  of  Batavia,  a  walk  of  that  distance  might  be  fatal. 
I  could  not  but  recollect  Batavia  as  I  walked  along  the  mar- 
gin of  the  sea,  but  Laguayra  is  a  paradise  compared  either 
with  Madras  or  Batavia.  No  white  man  ventures  to  walk 
in  the  mid-day  in  the  Asiatic  cities  mentioned  without  a 
chattah^  or  umbrella,  carried  by  a  servant  whose  business 
it  is. 

Besides  this  experience,  the  circumstances  which  are  the 
usually  ascribed  causes  of  diseases  on  the  coast,  do  not  exist 
at  Laguayra.  There  are  neither  marshes,  stagnant  waters, 
nor  mangroves,  to  produce,  by  vegetation  and  dccomposi- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  31 

lion,  that  foul  or  mephitic  air,  which  is  found  productive  of 
disease  elsewhere  :  east  and  west  of  Laguayra  there  is  a  long 
naked  strand  perpetually  cleansed  and  refreshed  by  the  busy- 
action  of  the  surf.  There  is  a  strong  corroboration  of  the 
generally  attributed  cause  of  disease  in  the  case  of  some 
changes  which  took  place  at  Barbaruta,  a  town  of  some  note 
near  Puerto  Cabello.  This  place  had  been  frequently  swept 
of  its  population  by  disease.  The  contiguous  shore  is  co- 
vered with  marine  vegetable  productions,  a  considerable 
space,  where  this  mephitic  air  was  generated,  was  covered 
with  a  great  portion  of  excavated  soil,  which  was  placed 
there  merely  to  be  thrown  away.  The  neighbourhood  of 
this  spot  became  salubrious  ;  while  the  adjacent  shore,  co- 
vered with  marine  vegetation,  retained  its  usual  noxious 
atmosphere  ;  which  resembles  that  at  Porto  Bcllo  and  other 
places  on  the  coast. 

The  jealousy  of  commerce  and  avarice,  which  is  not  con- 
fined to  those  countries,  must  have  had  strong  incentives 
under  such  a  monopoly  as  that  exercised  by  Spain  in  the 
countries  bowed  down  by  her  intolerable  policy.  If  any 
excuse  could  be  allowed  for  this  selfish  spirit  any  where,  it 
is  where  commerce  was  circumscribed,  and  its  business  a 
succession  of  scrambling,  intrigue,  and  corruption.  The 
idea  could  not  enter  into  the  conceptions  of  a  people  so  cir- 
cumstanced, that  the  spirit  of  a  monopoly  is  a  self  destroying 
spirit,  or  that  the  extension  and  augmentation  of  commerce 
is  beyond  the  power  of  calculation  to  fix  or  measure ;  and 
that  the  prosperity  of  several  parts  of  a  country  must,  by 
•  the  effect  of  example,  consumption,  reciprocal  aid,  and  in- 
tercommunity of  exchange,  extend,  progressively,  prosperity- 
over  the  whole.  The  colonists,  under  Spain,  maintained  an, 
hostility  of  provinces  and  of  towns — the  government  policy 
fomented  this  division ;  and  one  town  defamed  the  men  of 
another,  and  carried  the  defamation  to  nature  itself.  Thus 
all  were  held  forth  as  execrable,  because  each  was  believed. 


32  VISIT    TO    COLOMBIA. 

Thus  Laguayra,  under  the  influence  of  Caracas,  %vas  held 
forth  to  be  a  much  worse  climate  than  Puerto  Cabello  ;  and 
the  latter,  under  the  influence  of  Valencia,  was  misrepresented 
at  Laguayra  in  turn.  This  spirit  has  not  yet  ceased ;  the  yel- 
low-fever has  been  reported  to  prevail  by  one  and  the  other 
for  the  mere  purpose  of  diverting  consignments  from  their 
rival,  when,  in  fact,  the  disease  did  not  exist  in  either  place. 

Travellers  who  have  not  visited  the  tropical  regions  will, 
however,  be  alarmed  by  such  considerate  friends  as  Hum- 
boldt took  his  report  from,  and  caution  will  be  requisite  as  to 
the  regularity  of  the  bodily  habit,  and  abstinence  from  heating 
drinks,  or  more  than  sufficient  food  ;  a  secretion  of  bile  more 
than  common  takes  place  in  warm  climates,  accompanied  by 
head  ache,  which  gentle  purgatives  dissipate  generally,  but 
an  emetic  eflfectually  removes ;  and  frequent  bathing,  particu- 
larly the  tepid  bath,  is  delightful  and  conducive  to  health. 

My  observations  in  L.»guayra,  and  subsequently  at  Cara- 
cas  and  elsewhere,  have  induced  opinions  differing  from 
Humboldt  and  others,  on  the  great  mortality  which  took 
place  at  the  earthquake  of  1812.  I  do  not  question  the 
data  as  to  the  numbers,  nor  is  it  so  important  to  the  views 
I  take,  and  which  I  shiill  only  glance  at  here,  and  dis- 
cuss  more  at  Caracas.  The  impression  on  my  mind  is 
that  more  injury  was  produced  by  the  materials  of  which 
the  houses  are  generally  built,  than  could  have  happened  had 
the  houses  been  constructed  of  stone.  No  house  of  stone 
has  been  disturbed  at  Laguayra.  The  late  respectable  consul 
of  the  United  States,  R.  K.  Lowry,  lived,  there  at  the  time. 
The  house  he  resided  in  was  constructed  of  stone;  an  addi-t 
tion  had  been  made  to  the  stone  building,  in  what  is  called 
pita,  that  is  ordinary  earth  beaten  to  hardness  with  ram- 
mers. The  additional  and  fragile  part  was  crumbled  to  dust 
by  the  agitation  of  the  earth ;  the  stone  building  remained, 
and  himself  in  it,  in  entire  safety.  This  subject  shall  be  no- 
ticed again. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  33 

The  appearance  of  the  two  or  three  officers,  whom  I  saw 
at  Laguayra,  answered  my  expectations ;  they  appeared  to 
feel  and  think  like  soldiers  :  my  first  impressions  of  the  rank 
and  file  were  not  so  satisfactory.  I  had  arrived  too  sudden- 
ly, and  was  called  upon  by,  the  moment's  view  to  form  an 
opinion,  which  I  found  upon  closer  observation  and  reflex- 
ion erroneous ;  an  incident  of  a  moment  had  perhaps  super- 
seded my  common  mode  of  forming  an  opinion,  by  ta- 
king the  con  after  I  had  given  the  pro.  Passing  through  the 
postern  gate  on  my  walk  to  Maquiteia,  I  was  accosted  by  both 
the  centinels  in  the  same  cadence :  "  Will  the  excellent  Se- 
nor  have  the  bounty  to  bestow  U7ia  real?''''  There  was  none 
of  the  insolence  of  mendicity  in  the  supplication  ;  but  an  air 
of  confident  persuasion,  which  seemed  to  say  they  were  not 
ashamed  to  ask,  but  that  it  would  be  a  shame  for  the  Seiior  to 
deny  so  small  a  bounty  as  wia  real.  1  coubd  not  but  smile 
at  the  novelty  of  the  occurrence,  and  a  train  of  ideas  rushed 
upon  me  which  brought  before  my  mind's  eye  a  brigade  of 
Bohillas  ^nd  Patans,  men  of  the  same  mixed  variety  of  com- 
plexions, six  feet  high,  and  on  whom  the  tailor  and  the  mili- 
tary equipment- maker  had  bestowed  all  that  neatness  and  el- 
egance would  require  to  set  off  arms  and  accoutrements, 
which  the  daily  inspection  established  in  the  most  perfect  or- 
der ;  I  began — or  rather  rapidly  went  on  to  compare  the 
sturdy,  chubby,  broad  shouldered,  muscular,  oval  faced,  bare 
footed  veterans  of  Colombia,  who  stood  before  me  ;  in  their 
platilla  pantaloons  and  jackets,  of  which  the  quality  could  be 
only  inferred  through  the  stains  of  bivouacs,  or  the  soiling  of 
their  only  bed  beside  the  earth,  the  cow-hide  upon  which  they 
are  used  to  slumber  when  they  have  it,  and  then  it  is  luxury; 
the  collars,  cuffs,  skirt  facings  of  yellow,  blue,  or  red,  the  ab- 
sence of  many  buttons  without  leave  ;  their  leather  caps,  and 
close  cropped,  lank,  black  hair ;  their  shirt  collars  open,  which 
had  been  probably  washed  at  some  distant  time ;  but  the  whole 
apparel  soiled ;  firelocks  and  belts  that  may  have  had  some  de- 

5 


34  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

termined  colour,  presented  such  a  contrast  with  the  Bengal  Sc- 
pahis,  *'  in  my  mind's  eye,"  that  out  of  mere  liberality  I  call- 
ed in  a  brigade  of  Madras  Sepahis,  men  of  their  own  stature, 
and  took  recruits  to  reconcile  the  disparity  ;  I  was  just  dis- 
covering that  these  soldiers  of  five  feet  six  inches  had,  in  the 
Mysore  campaigns,  borne  the  marches  in  the  ghauts  with  less 
fatigue,  and  greater  alacrity,  than  those  long  legged  Hindus- 
tances,  whose  heads  were  so  much  in  the  clouds  that  they 
disdained  to  look  down  on  those  sturdy  soldiers ;  a  gentle 
touch  on  the  arm,  and  a  soft  aspiration  of  Sehor ! — put 
the  Sepahis  to  flight — and  I  began  to  remonstrate,  that  it 
was  unworthy  of  soldiers  to  solicit — and  talked  of  their  dig- 
nity, and  what  was  due  to  themselves — one  of  them,  perhaps 
seeing  my  hand  glide  unconsciously  to  my  pocket,  asked,  in 
a  tone  perfectly  soft  and  conciliatory,  though  bearing  a  sort 
of  rebuke — **  Is  it  worth  the  while  of  the  worthy  Seiior  to 
hesitate  about  una  real,  with  soldiers  who  have  fought  the 
battles  of  Colombia,  and  who  have  received  no  pay  for  six 
months,  because  the  public  treasure  has  been  exhausted  in 
the  expulsion  of  the  Godas  .^" 

It  was  the  logic  of  nature — and  a  professor  of  rhetoric 
would  have  made  but  a  poor  hand  of  it,  if  he  attempted  to 
do  it  better.  Whether  it  was  my  obvious  embarrassment, 
or  my  attempt  to  explain  in  rather  imperfect  Castilian,  that 
produced  a  smile,  I  shall  not  pretend  to  decide,  but,  as  I  drew 
my  hand  from  my  pocket,  they  handled  their  arms  and 
very  gravely  resumed  their  posts,  and  we  parted  with  a  bet- 
ter opinion  of  each  other  I  am  sure ;  for,  as  I  went  along,  I 
reviewed  my  first  impressions,  and  perceiving  that  I  had  not 
taken  proper  ground  in  judging  by  the  first  appearances,  I 
brought  up  my  sepahis  again  for  another  contrast,  and, 
travelling  back  to  their  first  history,  I  found  them  to  be  not 
the  defenders,  but  the  hired  enslavers  of  their  country ;  far- 
ther, that  it  was  only  the  difference  between  seven  and  eight 
rupees  that  carried  them  from  beneath  the  French  standard, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  35 

to  fight  under  the  British,  that  they  are  never  without  the 
amplest  accommodations,  clothing,  subsistence,  quarters, 
and  pay  ;  that  when  they  march  beyond  certain  bounds  their 
pay  is  augmented ;  and  that  vast  bazars  of  subsistence,  am- 
ple transportation,  accompany  them  in  all  their  marches,  and 
that  a  suspension  of  pay  for  three  months,  would,  perhaps, 
dissolve  the  British  dominion.  This  was  my  renewed  view 
of  my  six  feet  Rohillas  and  Patans,  as  well  as  my  sturdy 
Tilinghees  and  soldiers  of  the  Carnatic. 

But  looking  once  more  at  those  oval,  cheerful,  contented, 
chubby  faces,  and  the  fine  symmetry  of  those  forms  which 
their  worn  and  tarnished  uniforms  did  not  at  all  conceal,  I  tra- 
velled back  with  them  also,  only  twelve  years,  when  called 
from  the  plantations  of  cacao  or  maize,  to  the  fortress  and  the 
plain,  where  to  them  a  flash  of  gunpowder  was  as  terrific  as 
thunder ;  see  them  scarcely  trained,  without  experienced  men 
to  train  them,  formed  into  battalions,  performing  marches  such 
as  reduce  those  of  Hannibal  and  Alexander  to  the  common 
class  of  military  achievements  ;  see  them  opposed  to  the  ve- 
terans of  Spain,  who  had  but  recently  fought  against  the  first 
soldiers  of  the  age,  the  legions  of  France ;  and  behold  them 
amidst  privations  and  wants,  without  shoes,  clothing,  or  pay, 
traversing  the  uninhabited  plains,  and  the  more  dismal  and 
dreary  summits  of  the  snow  clad  Chisga,  encountering  and 
conquering  those  veterans  of  Spain,  in  successive  pitched 
battles ;  not  with  the  distant  cannonade  of  artillery,  nor  the 
protracted  details  of  a  subde  strategy,  but  like  those  of  Ma- 
rathon and  those  of  Zama,  hand  to  hand,  in  close  energetic 
conflict :  armies  at  no  one  point,  at  any  period,  exceeding 
four  or  five  thousand  men ;  and,  at  the  same  time,  defending 
and  vanquishing,  at  greater  distances  from  their  base  of  ope- 
rations than  Paris  is  from  Moscow.  It  was  these  men,  and 
such  men  as  these,  created  by  liberty  and  the  revolution, 
who  were  menaced — and  the  menaces  realized  wherever  it 
could  be  accomplished  upon  the  unfortunate  captives— who 


36  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

were  menaced  with  extermination — and  who,  after  sustaining 
a  conflict  of  twelve  years,  have  vanquislied,  destroyed,  or 
expelled  43,000  veterans  of  Spain,  ^vho  had  threatened  to 
exterminate  them.  I  gave  up  the  sepahis,  the  enslavers  of 
their  country,  and  reconciled  myself  to  the  soldiers  of  liberty, 
whose  valour  and  whose  blood  gave  independence  to  that 
world  Columbus  had  discovered.  At  Valencia  I  was  gratified 
to  find,  in  the  grenadiers  of  Columbia,  men,  in  every  per- 
sonal respect,  equal  to  the  finest  sepahis  of  India. 

In  thus  rendering  justice  to  m}  self,  by  correcting  an  er- 
roneous and  hasty  judgment,  I  was  led  to  ask  if  I  had  not 
sinned  in  the  same  way  in  speaking  of  Laguayra;  perhaps 
it  was  only  the  censure  of  a  passing  thought,  on  seeing  the 
port  of  entry  of  the  beautiful  city  and  rich  country  of  Cara- 
cas, without  a  safe  harbour ;  which,  at  an  expense  compara- 
tively inconsequent,  and  by  labour,  and  with  materials,  per- 
fectly at  their  command,  might  be  accomplished  with  more 
ease  and  effect  than  in  any  part  of  the  earth,  near  so  important 
a  city.  But  it  did  not  consist  with  the  policy  of  Spain  to 
expend  riches  on  merely  commercial  improvements.  Car- 
thagena,  and  Puerto  Cabello,  and  Puerto  Bello,  and  St.  Juan 
d'Uloa,  were  but  as  the  gates  of  a  prison  by  which  mo- 
nopoly was  to  be  sustained  through  force  and  terror.  It 
could  not  be  expected  then  that  the  republic,  not  yet  re- 
leased from  Spanish  inroads,  for  Morales  was  then  maraud- 
ing on  the  borders,  and  menacing  Truxillo  and  Merida,  and 
plundering  the  country  near  Timothes — for  we  afterwards 
passed  within  two  miles  of  the  Spanish  outposts  near  Gritja  : 
it  could  not  be  expected,  after  twelve  years  of  a  desolating 
war,  that  such  an  object  could  yet  be  proposed  or  accom- 
plished. But,  if  the  proprietors  of  estates  in  the  contiguous 
neighbourhood  were  to  inquire  into  the  effect  of  such  a 
harbour,  as  would  defend  ships  against  the  worst  storms  of 
the  Caribbean  sea,  it  would  be  found  to  be  their  best  inte- 
terest,  as  it  would  treble  the  value  of  their  estates,  the  de- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  3T 

mand  for  their  productions,  and  multiply  their  commerce 
tenfold. 


CHAPTER  III. 

The  causeway  leading  to  Maquiteia — a  redan  or  outpost  and  barrack  half  way— • 
the  east  side  of  Maquiteia  forms  a  cove,  adapted  to  form  the  west  jetec  of  an 
artificial  harbour. — Flan  of  the  village — the  scite  delightful. — Adventure  of  an 
evening  at  Maquiteia — musical  performance  on  the  lyre  of  the  country — novelty 
of  the  dancing — civility  of  the  people — a  good  ear  and  grace  in  dancing,  uni- 
formly found  among  ail  classes — a  refresco  of  fruit  presented  by  these  hospit- 
able paisanas — they  refuse  compensation — delighted  with  the  music. — Cape 
Blanco— effects  of  the  earthquake  of  1812 — the  noUon  of  a  bay  formed  by 
Capes  Codera  and  Blanco  fanciful. — Mules  arrive  from  Caracas — Consul  antici- 
pates and  provides  an  arriero — hints  to  travellers  concerning  mules,  muleteers, 
and  alcaldes — patiencia  por  force — for  a  long  journey  preferable  to  purchase 
prime  riding  mules — it  saves  money  and  time. — Prepare  for  departure — take 
leave  of  Commandant — innocent  manners — fix  rendezvous  at  Maquiteia. — De- 
parture— the  zigzag  road  of  Avila — compared  witli  that  to  Honda  by  Hum- 
boldt— a  different  comparison. — Ascend  the  Torrequemada — to  the  Salto — the 
Venta  Grande — meet  Senora  Bolivar  and  friends  there — dilemma  as  to  accom- 
modation— relieved  by  a  joke. — Coffee  plantation  on  the  Sierra — coffee  tree 
described,  and  husbandry  of — fortlet  of  Cuchilla,  reflection  produced  by  it — 
descend  by  las  Vueltas. — The  Silla  unveiled. — Caracas  seen — the  first  impres- 
sions— fountain  on  the  road.  — Enter  the  barrier  of  Pastora — ruin  and  desolation 
all  round — street  of  Carabobo — rendezvous  at  Senora  Antonia's — interesting 
spectacle — Elizabeth  remains. — We  accept  invitation  of  Dr.  Forsyth — meet 
Colonel  Todd. 

The  causeway  which  leads  from  the  west  end  of  Laguayra 
to  the  village  of  Maquiteia,  I  compute  to  be  rather  more 
than  half  a  mile  :  it  is  a  spacious  platform,  formed  upon  a 
compact  and  well  constructed  wall,  facing  the  sea  to  the 
north,  and  skirting  the  steep  Sierra  on  the  south  side.  It  is 
about  forty  feet  broad  ;  and  I  must  apprize  the  reader  that  I 
have  not  measured  any  thing,  because  I  could  not  accomplish 
it  perfectly,  through  the  breaking  of  some  instruments  which 


38  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

I  carried  with  me.  All  the  measures  I  shall  mention,  unless 
reference  be  specially  made,  must  be  considered  as  impres- 
sions on  my  judgment,  from  the  habit  of  estimating  eleva- 
tion and  space  by  the  eye.  The  causeway  winds  but  very 
little,  but  it  expands  over  a  more  ample  space  as  Maquiieia 
is  approached  :  the  road  to  Caracas  lying  in  a  west  direc- 
tion above  the  south  end  of  Maquitcia,  the  main  street  of  the 
village  is  open  to  that  road,  and  runs  north  and  south,  about 
sixty  feet  broad,  to  the  point  of  a  promontory  on  which  it 
stands,  in  north  and  south  length  perhaps  half  a  mile,  of 
which  not  a  third  is  occupied  by  the  village,  and  on  the  up- 
per or  southern  end,  which  is  more  than  seventy  feet  higher 
than  the  sea,  and  fifty-six  feet  higher  than  the  main  street  of 
Laguayra. 

About  half  way  from  Laguayra,  a  ravine  in  the  Sierra  sup- 
plies a  rivulet  which  crosses  the  causeway  beneath  a  well 
built  single  arch  ;  and  the  ground  being  more  elevated  here 
than  at  any  other  point  between  the  two  places,  a  picket  or 
outpost  was  established  formerly.  The  breastwork  of  the 
redan,  and  the  platform,  all  of  good  stone  masonry,  remain, 
though  now  mutilated ;  and  excellent  quarters  erected  for 
the  troops  still  remained. 

The  line  of  the  strand  curves  off  as  Maquitcia  is  ap- 
proached, and  the  cove  forms  a  segment  of  a  circle  ;  if  a  bold 
pier  were  run  out  in  a  line  to  the  north-west  from  the  east  ex- 
tremity of  Laguayra,  this  promontory  would  form  a  beautiful 
flank  to  a  harbour.  The  ground  plan  of  Maquitcia  is  an  in- 
clined plane  from  south  to  north,  where  its  rocky  extremity 
is  beaten  by  the  surf.  The  upper  or  southern  end  of  Ma- 
quitcia is  seventy-six  feet  above  the  ocean  ;  the  main  street  of 
Laguayra  about  fifteen  feet.  The  scite  is  delightful,  and  the 
laying  out  of  a  street  so  spacious  and  commodious  is  ascribed 
to  Mr.  Lowry,  the  American  consul,  who  then  resided  there. 
Several  houses  in  the  style  of  the  country,  and  well  constructed, 
roomy,  and  commodious,  are  erected  on  that  street ;  and  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  39 

place  promises  to  be  as  prosperous  as  it  is  delightful.  The 
stranjjcr  is  surprized  to  find  this  village,  so  well  adapted  for 
a  town,  overlooked  by  those  sturdy  men  who  abandoned  Ca- 
raveliada  to  defeat  a  tyrant. 

Several  smaller  streets  are  laid  out  crossing  the  main  street ; 
but  the  village  is  most  populous  on  the  side  of  the  road  lead- 
ing to  Caracas,  at  the  upper  end.  The  causeway  is  a  de- 
lightful mornjng  and  evening  promenade,  and  the  space  be- 
ing more  open  and  more  detached  from  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain than  Laguayra,  it  has  become  a  place  of  evening  retire- 
ment after  the  business  of  the  day,  and,  on  account  of  its 
charming  atmosphere,  a  place  of  delicious  repose. 

On  one  of  the  delightful  evenings  spent  at  the  American 
consul's,  our  seats  were  in  the  open  air  in  front  of  the  dwell- 
ing, and  as  the  visitors  drew  off  by  degrees  in  order  to  enter 
the  town  before  the  gates  were  closed ;  and  as  others  retired 
to  rest,  lieutenant  Bache  and  myself  continued  to  enjoy  the 
serenity  and  beauty  of  the  night.  Music  of  a  very  spright- 
ly kind  attracted  our  attention,  and  it  became  more  interesting 
in  its  successive  changes ;  we  moved  in  the  direction  from 
whence  it  appeared  to  proceed,  without  any  other  purpose  than 
to  hear  more  distinctly  ;  it  came  from  a  small  house  beneath 
the  Palmyra  palm  trees,  on  the  main  street,  which,  as  we  pass- 
ed, we  were  invited  to  enter  with  great  civility,  and  seats  were 
handed  to  us.  The  house  was  occupied  by  several  females, 
and  children  of  both  sexes ;  one  of  the  young  women  resumed 
her  lyre  as  soon  as  we  were  seated,  and  renewed  her  interest- 
ing performance.  The  instrument  was  of  the  form,  but  one- 
third  less  than  the  Irish  harp,  formed  of  a  light  wood,  resem- 
bling red  cedar,  but  closer  grained.  After  some  time  the 
younger  people  stood  up  to  dance,  and  we  were  no  less 
amused  by  the  ease  and  deportment  of  the  dancers  than  by 
the  novelty  of  it'*  style  ;  it  was  a  sort  of  pantomimic  dance, 
not  in  active  springs,  or  figures,  or  cuts  with  the  feet,  but  a 
well  cadenced  pursuit  and  retreat.     Other  dances  were  per- 


10  Visit  to  Colombia. 

formed  by  young  girls  and  boys,  all  in  admirable  time. 
The  young  person  who  had  first  pcrlbrmed  handed  the 
lyre  to  another,  who  commenced  with  equal  execution. 
These  were  short  cantas,  and,  as  usual,  patriotic  songs,  in 
which  Bolivar  was  not  overlooked. 

The  young  woman,  who  had  retired,  now  entered,  with 
some  others,  carrying  excellent  and  Ircsh  iruit,  as  she  said />or 
refresco :  sweet  bananas,  delicious  oranges,  and  several  kinds 
of  Iruit  with  which  we  were  not  yet  acquainted,  but  of  which 
we  partook,  as  they  were  with  unaffected  civility  handed 
round. 

Tiie  dance  was  renewed,  and  the  first  female  resumed 
her  lyre,  and  new  airs  and  new  dances  so  won  upon  our 
time,  that  it  was  earlij  before  we  could  overcome  our  wishes 
to  stay  and  see  it  out.  We  rose  and  tendered  compensation 
for  our  entertainment ;  but  it  was  modestly  refused,  and 
we  were  informed  that  the  pleasure  we  manifested  to  have 
received  from  their  humble  music  was  an  ample  compensa- 
tion. 

Whatever  may  be  the  superiority  of  science,  over  these 
harmonists  of  nature,  I  confess  my  gratification  was  as  full 
and  delightful,  as  any  I  ever  experienced  Irom  the  best  com- 
bined orchestra.  Possibly  i)rcdisposition,  time,  place,  and 
even  the  unexpectedness  of  the  incidents,  may  have  produced 
a  more  hvely  effect,  and  enhanced  the  pleasure.  I  had  ample 
opportunities  in  the  course  of  my  journey,  to  perceive  the  ge- 
neral aptitude  for  music  and  dancing,  among  all  classes  and  in 
all  parts  of  the  country.  A  uniformly  good  ear,  and  the  total 
absence  of  awkwardness  in  dancing  are  striking.  Upon  en- 
quiring concerning  the  harp,  I  understood  it  was  a  manu- 
facture of  the  country,  and  cost  no  more  than  five  dollars ; 
had  I  been  on  my  return,  I  should  certainly  have  procured 
one,  were  it  only  as  a  remembrance  of  the  evening's  entertain- 
ment we  experienced. 

It  was  my  intention  to  have  visited  Cape  Blanco,  three 
miles  west  of  Maquiteia,  but  other  engagements  prevented 


VISIT  TO  COLOMUIA.  41 

mc.  I  however  learned  from  the  best  authority,  the  parti- 
culars which  1  shall  here  narrate.  Before  the  earthquake  of 
1812,  presented  an  elevated  bluft',  on  the  summit  of  which 
had  been  erected  a  commodious  pavilion,  which  served  as 
a  beacon  to  the  mariner,  an  observatory  and  look-out- house. 
In  the  earthquake,  this  pavilion  totally  disappeared,  leaving 
not  a  fragment  to  shew  where  it  stood.  The  cliff  appears 
to  have  opened,  and  swallowed  the  pavilion  and  summit  of 
the  headland,  which  now  appears  sixty  feet  depressed  below 
its  former  elevation.  A  long  kdge  of  rocks,  which  perched 
above  the  waves  to  some  height,  and  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent, believed  to  be  sixteen  hundred  yards  into  the  ocean, 
underwent  a  change  also  ;  the  ledge,  which  before  rose  above 
the  sea,  is  now  beneath  the  surface,  but  reveals  itself  by  a 
heavy  foaming  reef. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  influence  of  its  former  eleva- 
tion on  the  fancy,  «hat  Cape  Blanco  and  Cape  Codera  formed 
the  horns  of  a  spacious  bay,  it  is  a  merely  metaphorical  bay, 
like  that  of  the  bay  of  Bengal,  formed  by  Capes  Comoiin  and 
Malacca,  or  like  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  They  afford  neither 
shelter  from  storms  nor  anchorage,  within  the  supposed  line 
of  their  extremities. 

The  21st  of  October  being  the  day  of  the  arrival  of  mules 
from  Caracas,  our  friend  the  consul  had  saved  us  the  trou- 
ble of  going  in  search  of  an  arriero^  or  master  muleteer,  and 
we  prepared  for  our  departure  the  next  day.  The  trans- 
portation of  all  moveable  objects  being  on  mules,  the  stran- 
ger who  has  not  some  friend,  such  as  we  had,  will  do  well 
to  address  himself  to  some  of  the  resident  merchants,  whose 
civility  and  attentions  are  proverbial ;  and  whose  experience  is 
necessary  to  guard  against  the  knavery  of  muleteers  here,  as 
in  all  parts  of  the  world  where  they  are  numerous;  and  against 
which  a  perusal  of  Gil  Bias  will  furnish  some  instructive  ex- 
amples and  precautions  in  relation  to  tliem  throughout  the 
eountrv.    In  all  the  cities,  towns,  and  villages,  the  established 

0 


42  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

usages,  which  are  law,  require  of  the  civil,  or  military  autho- 
rity to  direct  the  supply  of  mules,  and  it  is  the  practice  every 
where,  unless  the  traveller  upon  a  prudent  calculation  finds  it 
more  advantageous,  as  we  did,  to  purchase  mules  at  a  high 
price,  rather  than  risque  the  delays  incident  to  the  customary 
practices  of  muleteers,  wherever  they  arc  sure  of  impunity.  In 
Laguayra,  the  merchant  having  it  in  his  power  to  employ  the 
muleteers,  whom  he  requires  for  the  carriage  of  his  merchan- 
dize, holds  an  influence  which  the  muleteer  will  not  abuse ; 
as  he  might,  if  the  stranger  made  his  own  bargain,  without 
knowledge  of  the  language  or  customs.     Where  the  alcalde  is 
applitd  to  in  a  city  or  a  town,  he  issues  his  orders,  but  the 
traveller  bargains  for  the  price  of  the  mule,  for  a  distance 
named.     If  the  muleteer  be  exorbitant,  an  appeal  to  the  al- 
calde  brings  him  to  the  accustomed  rate  of  charge.     But  it 
sometimes  happens  on  a  long  journey — that  the  alcalde  will 
be  himself  the  covered  owner :  and  where  he  is  not,  being 
only  a  mere  man,  subject  to  the  same  surly  temper,  ill  na- 
ture,  or  false  idea  of  his  own  consequence,    and  he  may 
sport  with  the  patience,   or  laugh  at  the  resentment  of  the 
person  whom   he  wantonly  injures,  merely  because  he  can 
do  so.     In  every  country  there  is  some  custom,  some  abuse 
to  complain  of,  insolent,  or  negligent,  or  disobliging  coach- 
men or  boatmen,  for  which  the  remedy  is  often  as  bad  as 
the  disease ;    in  Colombia  there  is  this  perversity  among 
muleteers  and  alcaldes,  but  I  must  acknowledge,   I  heard 
more  of  it  from  others,  than  I  experienced  myself — and  on 
the  few  occasions,   which  happened  to  me,  I  had  leamed, 
among  other  wise  saws,   the  Spanish  proverb  patiencia  por 
force^  and  as  a  good  appetite  requires  a  good  look-out  before 
dinner,  I  learned  not  to  fret  when  I  found  some  of  these  ill- 
natured    folks,   likely    to  derive  amusement  from  my  re- 
sentment, and  I  recommend  this  course  to  other  travellers. 
I  also  recommend  the  purchase  of  good  mules  rather  than  a 
dependance  upon  hire,  where  the  journey  exceeds  five  hun- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  43 

dred  miles,  because,  as  you  may  have  to  feed  the  mules  you 
hire,  and  they  are  changed  at  short  stages,  the  hire  soon 
amounts  to  the  price  of  a  mule,  while  if  you  feed  your  ovyn 
mule  well,  you  have  all  the  benefit  in  the  journey,  and  you  will 
obtain  a  better  price  for  your  mule  when  you  part  with  him. 

We  paid  our  respects  to  the  commandant  and  Senora  Bo- 
livar on  the  21st,  and  to  other  friends  in  town.  In  our 
visit  to  the  commandant,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduc- 
tion to  his  lady  and  a  venerable  matron,  her  mother,  whom 
we  found  enjj:aged  at  their  needle  work.  The  customs  of 
every  nation  are  the  criterion  of  their  own  morals,  which 
ought  not  to  be  judged  by  customs  which  differ  from  them, 
and  are  seldom  more  nor  less  moral  one  than  the  other.  The 
lady  of  the  commandant  had  playing  at  her  feet  a  fine  boy 
of  about  two  years  old.  We  were  objects  of  curiosity  to 
him,  and  his  mother  placed  his  hand  in  mine,  and  he  was 
soon  mounted  on  my  knee  ;  he  was  stark  naked.  Some 
prudish  people  would  reprobate  this,  and  certainly  I  should 
prefer  our  own  customs ;  but  Swift  says  "  delicate  people 
have  nasty  ideas,"  and  1  offer  no  other  commentary  ;  it  was 
no  proof  of  false  delicacy  in  the  mother,  for  she  had  been  so 
educated,  and  those  who  cannot  stand  the  shock  of  such 
customs,  should  not  visit  any  part  of  Asia  or  South  America, 
where  the  nudity  of  a  child  carries  no  idea  of  indecorum. 

We  made  the  rendezvous  of  our  friends  for  four  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  at  Maquiteia,  where  we  slept:  and  at  the 
appointed  hour,  after  taking  some  chocolate,  which  our  good 
Philadelphia  friend,  Mrs.  Lowry,  had  taken  care  to  have 
prepared,  we  took  our  leave,  and  moved  off  in  a  gay  ca« 
valcade  for  the  Sierra  Avila.  It  is  a  custom  of  th(^  country 
for  friends  to  come  out  to  meet  and  to  escort,  on  departure, 
those  whom  they  esteem  or  respect. 

Humboldt's  description  of  the  road  from  Laguayra  over 
the  Sierra  Avila  to  Caracas,  leaves  very  little  to  be  said  by 
those  who  follow  him  over  the  same  space,  and  if  his  works 


4i  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

were  likely  to  be  in  every  hand  through  whieh  this  produc- 
tion is  likely  to  pass,  it  need  be  no  more  than  noticed ;  but 
as  different  persons  may  view  the  same  objects  differently, 
or  find  objects  that  may  have  been  overlooked,  I  shall  use 
the  manner  of  his  diagrams  to  show  the  elevation  of  the 
mountains,  and  describe  places  only  as  1  saw  them. 

Humboldt,  in  illustrating  the  steepness  of  this  passage, 
states  it  to  be  infinitely  finer  than  that  between  Bogota  and 
Honda,  which  might  lead  the  reader  to  suppose  there  was 
sofne  resemblance,  or  some  road  leading  to  Honda.     The 
only  resemblance  is  that  of  steepness ;  but  that  of  Caracas, 
besides   being  only  fifteen  miles,   and  over  an  elevation  of 
6000  feet;    whereas   the  distance  to  Honda   from  Bogota 
is  nbout  84  miles  from  an  elevation  of  8000  feet.     The 
Caracas  road  is   paved  in  an  excellent  manner ;  only  about 
seven  miles  on  the  Bogota  plain   is  paved,   the  residue  of 
the  route,  not  road,  for  in  fact  art  or  labour  has  done  no- 
thing to  make  a  road  ;  it  is  a  path  wrought  by  the  hoofs  of 
the  patient  mule,  where  it  is  not  a  ravine  or  a  declivity  dug 
out  of  the  rocky  sides  of  the  Sierra  Trigo  and  Sargente, 
where,  excepting  a  gap  or   pass  through  the  narrow  crest 
of  a  ridge,  man  has  done  nothing.     On   the  Caracas  road 
there  is  no    sort   of  danger,    nor  is  the   inconvenience  of 
ascending  or  descending  serious,  as  the  road,  besides  being 
well  paved,  is  cut   into   traverses,   zigzag,  which,  though 
giving  length  to  the  course,  make  the  ascent  gradual  and 
easy.     This  is  not  the  character  of  the  route  to  Honda,  of 
which  the  descent  is  7130  feet ;  and,  whether  ascending  or 
descending,  it  is  more  prudent  to  climb  or  to  crawl  than  to 
attempt  riding  or  jumping  from  rock  to  rock. 

There  is  some  pleasure  too  in  ascending  the  Sierra  Avila, 
as  the  scenes  around  are  sublime,  and  open,  without  the 
necessity  of  watching  the  steps  of  the  mule,  to  the  constant 
observation  of  the  traveller.  The  pavement,  in  some  parts 
of  the  ascent  v/here  we  passed,  had  been  broken  up  and 


».i 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  45 

in  need  of  repair ;  I  learn  that  the  width  of  the  road  has 
been  since  increased,  some  of  the  traversing  lines  better 
graduated,  and  the  whole  put  into  a  perfect  state  of  repair. 
To  the  mere  traveller  it  is  a  delightful  march ;  to  the  inte- 
rests of  commerce,  a  road  through  Tipe  would  contribute 
more  to  the  interests  of  the  city  and  the  plantations  too. 

The  road  to  Caracas,  before  the  ascent  is  commenced, 
leads  rather  to  the  south  of  west,  and  after  passing  about  a 
mile,  the  obscurity  of  a  strait  and  a  broad  travelled  track 
appears  to  be  a  continuance  in  the  same  western  direc- 
tion, it  is  indeed  the  route,  lately  completed,  by  the  valley 
of  Tipe,  which  intrepid  horsemen  sometimes  prefer  to  the 
mountain  road.  At  this  point  we  turned  to  the  left,  and 
commenced  the  ascent,  which  continued  over  spaces  of  fifteen 
to  twenty  yards  length  ;  leading  first  to  the  south-east,  then 
winding  south-west,  and  so  alternately,  one  side  or  the  other 
to  the  ascent.  The  first  range  of  ascent  is  over  rocks,  the 
Torrequimada,  or  the  burnt  tower,  why  so  named,  is  uncer- 
tain ;  above  this  rocky  range  the  road  appears  like  a  flat 
ditch,  cut  out  of  a  whitish  clayey  soil,  which  shews  the 
marks  of  the  spade  or  instrument  with  which  the  sides  were 
cut ;  it  was  in  this  range,  which  is  much  more  steep  than 
that  previously  ascended,  that  the  pavement  was  broken ; 
the  clay  bore  the  indenting  of  the  mule's  track,  and  where 
it  was  moist  was  slippery  ;  the  traverses  here  were,  besides 
being  more  steep,  much  shorter;  and,  this  is  the  space, 
which,  from  a  plantation  on  the  west  side  of  this  ascent,  is 
called  Curucuti :  this  ascent  overcome,  which  is  the  only 
part  at  all  unpleasant,  the  ascent  is  less  steep,  the  road  more 
commodious,  and  the  pavement  in  perfect  repair.  The 
next  stage  gained  is  denominated  the  Salto,  or  leap,  a  singu- 
lar appearance  or  opening  in  the  mountain,  about  thirty  feet 
broad  at  the  summit,  and  diminishing,  in  the  shape  of  a 
wedge,  to  60  feet  below.  Over  this  chasm  a  drawbridge 
had  been  placed  during  the  war,  and  a  strong  picket  guard 


46  VISIT  TO   COLOMIJIA. 

established  ;  tlic  machinery  for  raising  the  platform  has  dis- 
appeared  with  the  military  guard,  leaving  the  platform  per- 
manent.  A  redan  of  good  masonry,  with  a  firm  platform, 
remains  upon  the  brow  of  the  declivity,  on  die  south  side  of 
the  bridge,  which  is  an  usual  halting  place  on  account  of  the 
grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  prospect.  The  steep  which  is 
overlooked  by  the  battery,  is  a  tremendous  ravine,  broken 
and  wild,  but  covered  with  verdure,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
discern,  to  its  lowest  depth ;  the  opposite  side  is  less  steep, 
and  woody,  so  that  the  peasants  have  cleared  numerous 
patches,  upon  which  the  coffee  and  the  cacao  are  seen  in 
minute  distinctness,  and  the  garden  and  the  plantaiu  patch 
around  the  thatched  cottages.  Looking  to  the  north,  the 
ocean  is  spread  out,  and,  apparently,  beneath  the  feet,  the 
ships,  not  larger  than  their  buoys,  appear  playing  upon  the 
restless  but  glittering  wave.  Maquitcia  is  distinctly  seen,  in 
its  whole  extent,  and  its  palm  trees  diminished  to  the  size 
of  a  honeysuckle.  On  the  west  side  the  mountain  is  not  so 
steep,  it  is  wooded  to  its  base,  only  where  husbandry  has 
substituted  plantations  of  cofTee  trees,  and  their  beautiful 
companions,  bananas,  which  are  always  planted  on  the  sunny 
side  of  the  coffee  tree,  to  mitigate  the  fervour  of  a  too  ardent 
sun,  by  its  beautiful  leaves  of  six  and  eight  feet  in  length, 
by  three  to  four  in  breadth,  of  a  refreshing  pea-green.  The 
coffee  plantations  on  the  side  of  this  steep  are  objects  of  cu- 
riosity to  the  traveller,  especially  who  has  not  been  before 
within  the  tropics  ;  the  presence  of  springs  of  limpid  water 
are  indicated  by  the  presence  of  a  coffee  plantation,  as  they 
do  not  thrive  without  it.  Here  a  spring,  trickling  from  a 
more  lofty  position,  is  conducted  in  rills  along  the  sides  of 
the  mountain,  above  the  upper  line  of  trees,  and  having  gained 
the  extremity,  retraces  its  course  above  another  range,  placed 
lower  down,  and  so  to  the  lowest  range.  The  coffee  tree 
was  now  in  its  full  bloom  and  ripeness,  exhibiting  conical 
forms  of  about  six  feet  diameter ;   at  two  feet  from  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  47 

ground,  the  branches  extending  horizontally  like  radii  from 
the  centre  stem,  which  rises  to  eight  or  nine  feet  high,  where 
the  tops  are  split  and  a  small  wedge  placed  in  them :  expe- 
rience having  taught  that  the  fruit  is  better  and  more  abun- 
dant, when  the  tree  is  thus  stunted.  The  branches  were 
loaded,  like  the  arms  of  an  Oriental  beauty,  with  beads  of  eve- 
ry tint,  from  the  palest  green  to  emerald,  yellow  topaz,  from 
these  to  the  rose  and  all  its  shades  and  hues,  to  crimson, 
and  the  deepest  ruby  red,  *'  last  stage  of  all,"  a  confirmed 
chocolate  brown,  the  sign  of  ripeness,  and  warning  to  the 
delicate  finger  where  to  pick.  The  fruit  grow  from  the 
bark  like  beads,  on  the  prolongation  of  the  branch,  of  the 
size  and  shape  of  a  cranberry  ;  where  the  husbandry'  is  good, 
the  work  of  collecting  the  ripe  fruit  is  performed  by  young 
persons,  who,  with  delicate  finger,  learn  to  pick  only  those 
that  are  ripe,  place  them  in  small  baskets,  and,  at  stated  pe- 
riods, carry  tliem  to  the  station  where  the  process  of  prepa- 
ration is  completed. 

Having  satisfied  curiosity,  and  had  some  little,  though 
not  indispensible  rest,  we  continued  our  route,  through 
natural  hedges,  and  some  scattered,  but  lofty  forest  trees, 
and  it  was  eight  o'clock  when  we  reached  the  Venta  Grande, 
or  principal  inn,  more  than  3800  feet  above  the  sea.  Here 
we  unexpectedly  found  our  friend  Senora  Antonia  and  her 
suite,  and  several  friends  who  had  come  from  Caracas  to  com- 
pliment heron  her  arrival.  The  Venta  Grande  was  not  suffi- 
cient to  contain  us  all ;  but  the  air  was  exquisitely  exhilarat- 
ing, and  it  was  more  agreeable  abroad  than  in  the  crowded 
house.  The  good  lady  had  determined  to  surprise  us,  and 
give  us  a  fresh  example  of  the  hospitality  and  courtesy  of 
the  country.  I  had  addressed  the  posadera  with  a  view  to 
obtain  breakfast  for  my  party,  but  she  had  her  lesson,  and 
told  me  she  had  nothing  to  sell  that  day  ;  at  first"!  thought 
it  was  my  defective  scholarship  in  Castilian  ;  but  SeSora 
Antonia,  who  had  anticipated  my  object,  continued  the  joke, 


48  VISIT  TO  COLUMBIA. 

assuring  mc,  significantly,  that  money  could  procure  nothing 
there — and  then  added,  but  there  is  plenty  of  chocolate, 
coffee,  fruit,  sweetmeats,  cake,  and  wine,  and  pointed  to  the 
other  ladies  already  busy.  1  was  here  introduced  to  several 
of  her  friends,  and  she  renewed  the  intimation,  before  made, 
that  Elizabeth  must  be  the  guest  of  Josephine  while  she 
staid  at  Caracas. 

We  were  soon  on  our  way  to  the  Cumbrc,  or  summit  of 
the  mountain,  yet  nearly  1000  feet  above  us  ;  our  progress 
was  not  hurried,  as  the  company  was  now  very  numerous, 
and  formed  into  little  squads  for  conversation  ;  several  ladies 
had  joined,  of  course  there  was  much  lively  prattle  and 
gaiety,  which  rarely  prevails  where  they  are  not ;  passing 
several  cottages,  and  the  Vcnta  of  Goyavo  on  the  Cumbrc, 
where  the  muleteers  were  feeding  their  animals  or  themselves, 
we  had  reached  the  summit  before  the  Silla  had  yet  cast  off 
its  gauzy  veil  of  clouds,  in  which  it  is  concealed  in  the 
^morning,  and  casts  it  off  as  the  sun  attracts  it  from  the  soutii 
in  the  forenoon.  We  passed  a  little  fortlet  called  Cuchilla, 
placed  on  a  point  more  elevated  than  our  road.  It  had  been 
established  to  guard  the  passes  and  paths  which  the  adven- 
turous paisanos  had  found  out  during  the  existence  of  a 
military  post  at  the  Salto.  The  vicissitudes  of  human  life 
were  brought  to  mind  by  this  fortlet  of  Cuchilla  :  while  the 
war  prevailed,  and  it  was  necessary  to  protection,  it  was 
visited  by  the  passing  traveller  ;  it  was  now  passed  with  a 
casual  and  indifferent  glance  ;  like  the  soldier  of  the  revolu- 
tion, whose  battles  and  whose  blood  had  purchased  inde- 
pendence, and  destroyed  his  own  vocation  ;  he  is  passed  b}- 
u'ith  indifference  or  disregard,  by  men  who  bowed  obse- 
quiously to  him,  while  there  was  danger. 

Our  road,  which  had  been  so  long  zigzag,  was  now  wind- 
ing, and  shaded  by  lofty  forest  trees ;  and  at  length  the  de- 
scent became  perceptible,  as  we  emerged  from  the  shade  ; 
the  mountains  in  the  south  were  revealing  their  summits. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  49 

range  beyond  range ;  and  the  Silla  stood  exposed  in  naked 
myjusty,  having  just  cast  off  her  veil,  which  was  flaunting  to 
the  south-west  on  a  breeze,  in  the  glare  of  the  sunbeams. 
We  were  now  on  las  Vueltas,  or  the  back  of  the  mountain, 
and  descending  eastward  on  a  slope  on  the  prolongation  of 
its  side,  with  a  steep  precipice  on  our  right ;  and  the  city  of 
Caracas  broke  upon  the  view,  and  the  whole  west  of  the 
valley.     It  was  prudent  not  to  proceed,  on  the  verge  of  such 
a  steep,  for  to  see  and  proceed  too  appeared  dangerous ;  and 
I  accordingly  halted  to  contemplate  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful and  interesting  spectacles  that  probably  is  to  be  found  on 
earth,  lest  passing  it  I  should  lose  it  and  my  first  impres- 
sions for  ever.     We  unconsciously  resort  to  comparisons  in 
order  to  strengthen  and  embody  our  ideas ;  my  first  impres- 
sion carried  me  to  that  bird-eye  picture  of  Babylon  which 
many  years  ago  I  had  seen  as  an  embellishment  of  the  Uni- 
versal History.     Caracas,  with  its  greatest  streets  descending 
from  the  north   or  mountain   foot,   to  the  south  and  lowest 
part  of  the  valley,  presented  beyond  a  trembling  light,  such 
as  would  be  shown  by  a  stream  of  quicksilver  flowing  through 
a  transparent  tube,  sparkling  and  playing  with  the  sunbeams 
as  it  passed  sensibly  from  west  to  east :  it  was  the  Guayra 
river,  which  has  its  sources  in  the  valley  between  the  moun- 
tain of  Higuerota  and  Los  Teques.     The  descending  streets 
are  crossed  at  right  angles,  and  run  east  and  west,  forming 
manzanas,  or  blocks  of  buildings,  of  about  260  to  300  feet 
on  each  face  ;  the  streets  not  more  than  twenty-five  feet  broad, 
some  only  twenty.     The  brightness  of  the  hour  displayed 
the  streets  very  distinctly  by  their  shadows  ;  and  buildings 
more  elevated  than  the  dwellings  were  defined  by  their  light 
and  shade.     In  the  west,  in  the  south,  and  in  the  cast,  the 
verdure  and  the  harvests  were  brilliant ;  the  field  of  yellow 
sugar  cane  ;  the  lighter  and  changeable  tints  of  the  waving 
barley  ;    the  grave  green  of  the  maize  patch ;  orchards  of 
orange,    not  yet  distinguishable    but  by  their  clumps  and 

7 


50  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

grouping.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Guayra,  below  the  city, 
the  hills  rose  gradually,  clothed  in  verdure  to  the  tops ;  at  a 
point  a  litde  to  the  eastward  of  the  point  of  view,  a  curious 
sport  of  nature  arrests  the  stranger's  eye.  It  is  a  range  of 
mounds,  of  such  a  form  as  that  they  seem  to  be  rather  the 
work  of  human  labour  than  natural.  They  appear  like  a 
range  of  spacious  caserns  or  warehouses,  with  angular  roofs, 
the  line  of  length  ascending  ;  and  their  gavel  ends  also  coped 
like  their  sides  towards  the  city,  and  all  covered  with  a  rich 
velvet  verdure.  The  city  was  still  2000  feet  beneath  me,  and 
when  I  had  finished  my  contemplation,  my  company  had  de- 
scended far  below  me.  I  hastened  along  the  now  more  gra- 
dual descent,  and  as  I  had  read  of  Elfuente  de  Sanchorquiz 
4600  feet  above  the  sea,  I  stopt  to  test  the  freshness  of  its 
waters,  and  found  it  limpid,  and,  as  the  day  was  not  cold, 
placed  in  a  very  excellent  position  to  slake  the  thirst  of  the 
traveller. 

I  joined  my  friends  when  they  were  entering  the  barrier 
or  gate  of  Pastora,  where  there  was  a  custom-house.  The 
desolation  around  from  the  earthquake  is  here  more  conspi- 
cuous than  in  any  other  place.  It  is  at  the  north-west  angle 
and  most  elevated  part  of  the  sloping  plain  on  which  the 
city  stands ;  the  greatest  inclination  is  to  the  south-east,  but 
it  inclines  also,  though  not  so  much,  to  the  east  and  south. 
The  breadth  of  the  plain  north  and  south  appeared  to  me 
about  three  and  a  half  miles,  it  may  be  more ;  looking  to  the 
westward,  the  ground  appears  to  rise  in  that  direction,  and 
to  be  more  depressed  as  the  eye  follows  the  course  of  the 
Guayra  to  the  valley  of  Chacao,  through  the  rich  plantations 
which  the  eye  distinguishes,  to  the  village  of  Petare,  seven 
miles  east. 

We  turned  off  to  the  east,  after  passing  the  gate  of  Pasto- 
ra, and  entered  the  street  of  Carabobo,  which  descends  south, 
and  about  noon,  at  the  desire  of  Seiiora  Antonia,  rendez- 
voused at  her  casa ;  we  found  abundant  refreshments,  and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  51 

had  an  opportunity  to  witness  the  cordial  greetings  of  frienls, 
and  the  prevailing  manners.  It  was  really  t  jharming  spec- 
tacle, to  behold  this  good  lady  surrounded  by  crowds  of 
friends  of  both  sexes,  old  and  young,  congratulating  her  on 
her  return  to  her  native  city.  The  liveliness  of  the  younger 
senoritas  and  the  solemnity  of  the  seiioras,  the  peculiar  em- 
brace of  the  matrons,  the  inquisitiveness  of  the  young,  and 
the  assiduous  suavity  of  the  sedate  ecclesiastic,  in  his  black 
silk  cassock  and  his  broad  brimmed  hat ;  the  curiosity  of  the 
females  about  the  North  American  young  lady  ;  and  the  vi- 
vacity which  pervaded  the  whole  concourse  in  the  spacious 
hall,  was  altogether  a  spectacle  of  which  no  form  of  expres- 
sion can  convey  a  distinct  idea. 

It  was  finally  settled  that  Elizabeth  should  remain  with 
her  young  friend ;  and,  at  the  invitation  of  Dr.  Forsyth,  an 
American  merchant,  long  a  resident  there,  Lieut.  Bache  and 
myself  took  quarters  at  his  house,  where  he  had  previously 
ordered  our  baggage ;  and  where  we  were  gratified  to  find 
Colonel  Todd,  the  American  ambassador  ad  interimy  and 
his  secretary,  Mr.  R.  Adams,  of  Richmond,  Virginia,  who 
had  been  here  some  time,  and  were  already  preparing  to  pro- 
ceed for  Bogota. 


52 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Military  music — excellent  throujjhout  the  country — the  Intendant  Soublette — 
the  office  of  Intendant  unknown  till  introduced  by  Galvez — in  1777 — imitation 
of  France — functions — more  extensive  than  under  monarchy — no  Intendan- 
cies  in  New  Granada  nor  in  Chili,  and  why — convenient  during  the  war — 
anecdotes  of  General  Soublette — rises  by  merit — of  Bolivar's  staff — distin- 
guished at  Cojede — defeats  the  Spanish  General  La  Torre — difficulties  of  the 
station  of  Intendant  in  the  revolution — his  happy  success  and  promptitude,  is 
appointed  Secretary  of  War  in  1824. — Distinguished  patriot  famihes — Cle- 
mente — Tovar — Toro,  &c. — First  impressions  of  the  city — streets — an  inclined 
plane  from  north-west  to  south-east — Plaza  Mayor — Valley  of  Chacao  and 
plain  of  Fetare. — Rivers — ravines — aqueducts    destroyed  by  earthquake  of 

1812. — Public   fountains   excellent — custom   of  drawing    water — bridges 

church  of  Candelaria  a  heap  of  rubbish — bridge — city  cleanly — pavements  in 
the  streets,  gateways,  and  patios — excellent  workmanship. — No  side  paths  in 
Caracas — all  round  stone  pavement — extended  to  the  roads — an  ingenious 
mode  of  improving  a  ravine  without  a  bridge — Oriental  style  in  all  public 
works  and  private  dwellings.— Interior  of  houses — style  of  building — materials 
— mortality  of  1812,  principally  owing  to  materials  called  pita — process  of 
building. 

Wherever  there  are  military  bodies  and  discipline, 
they  are  sure  to  make  themselves  heard.  "While  at  break- 
fast the  first  morning  after  my  arrival,  my  attention  was  at- 
tracted by  the  distant  but  approaching  sound  of  "  the  spirit 
stirring  drum  and  the  ear  piercing  fife,"  whose  clamorous 
concord  became  every  instant  more  distinct  and  animating, 
I  had  supposed  this  kind  of  sympathy  had  long  passed  away ; 
I  could  hear  the  assemblee  or  even  the  generale  beat,  without, 
perhaps,  any  more  emotion  than  if  it  was  a  solo  on  a  jew's- 
harp ;  but  here  were  anxiety  and  strong  throbs,  which  led 
me  at  once  to  the  street  whence  the  sound  appeared  to  pro- 
ceed, and  I  once  again  felt  an  interest  in  the 

"  Drum's  sonorous  sound 


Parading  round,  and  round,  and  round." 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  58 

Imagine  a  corps  of  twenty-four,  half  fifes,  half  drums, 
with  their  drum-major,  in  German  or  French  style,  and  his 
staff  of  office,  leading  them  in  files  of  six  in  front,  occupy- 
ing the  whole  breadth  of  the  street,  and  pacing  down  the 
hill  at  more  than  quick-time:  drums  of  better  tone  I  had 
never  heard,  and  the  fifes  were  equally  good ;  but  the  style 
of  the  subject^  the  novelty,  the  vivacit}',  cannot  be  described ; 
a  better  musician  would  put  the  beats  on  a  stave,  and  beat 
it  off  again  ;  but  I  put  it  unpremeditatedly  into  English  syl- 
lables— which,  however,  they  may  impress  the  reader,  con- 
tinue to  speak  the  language  of  the  drum  to  me — in  this 
way,  with  a  prelude  of  a  half  ruffle  and  a  drag — R-r-r— 
ump'm,  and  bump'm,  and  blump'm,  and  stump'm,  and 
thump'm,  and  blumb — R-r-r-and  thump'm,  and  stump'm, 
and  plump'm,  and  plump'm  and  blum — Da  Capo.  The 
excitement  of  the  moment  brought  to  mind  the  song  of 
Frederick  I.  of  Prussia,  "  O  mine  got,  vot  blud  and  tender." 
The  motion  was  so  rapid  and  the  sounds  so  much  in  con- 
cord, that  I  thought  nothing  would  be  better  adapted  to 
arouse  the  feelings ;  the  beating,  to  speak  technically,  was 
so  bold  and  intelligible.  Our  military  music,  within  the 
United  States,  is,  generally  speaking,  so  dull  and  execrable, 
and  our  marching  so  much  in  the  time  of  the  104th  psalm, 
such  as  was  in  fashion  when  soldiers  wore  a  coat  of  long 
square  skirts  and  slash  sleeves,  and  a  Kevenhuller-hat,  with 
such  a  tail  as  the  monkeys  on  the  Magdalena  wear  at  this 
day ;  with  a  bandolier ;  a  long  matchlock,  and  a  crutch 
to  rest  his  piece  upon,  before  locks  were  invented.  Our 
usual  morning  and  evening  beats  are  better  adapted  to  put 
men  to  sleep  than  to  put  them  in  motion.  During  the  late 
war  there  were  a  few  officers  and  fewer  regiments  who  had 
ideas  of  military  music  ;  but  with  the  peace  it  began  to  tra- 
vel backward,  and  is  now  half  a  century  behind  the  world : 
perhaps  so  it  may  be  in  Colombia  when  mihtary  talents  shall 
be  no  longer  necessary,  and  the  establishment  becomes  a 


54  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

provision  for  men  who  could  not  gain  a  livelihood  in  any 
other  way. 

I  was  induced  to  visit  the  parade  where  the  different 
guards  were  turned  off,  and  found  the  band  of  wind  instru- 
ments were  equal  to  the  drums.  Indeed,  the  excellence  of 
the  military  music  pervades  the  country.  I  had  the  batisfac- 
tion  of  forming  an  acquaintance  with  many  of  the  officers, 
native  and  foreign,  who  were  well  disposed  to  be  communi- 
cative. I  was  introduced  by  them  to  the  Intendant  General 
Soublettc,  to  whom  it  is  the  etiquette  to  be  made  known, 
<ind  took  the  opportunity  to  request  his  naming  a  day  when 
jl  might  wait  on  him  on  business,  which  he  accordingly  did. 
\1  had  frequent  opportunities  of  seeing  him  in  public  and  pri- 
vate afterwards ;  and  to  form  a  high  opinion  of  his  capacity 
and  talents. 

The  office  of  Intendant,  under  the  Republic,  differs  from 
that  which  belonged  to  it  under  the  Spanish  regime.  It  was 
not  known  in  any  part  of  America  till  about  1777,  when,  at 
the  instance  of  Galvez,  a  minister  much  celebrated  in  Spa- 
nish American  history,  the  office  was  created,  in  imitation 
of  and  with  corresponding  functions  as  the  Intendancies  of 
France.  Their  duties  were  intended  to  be  purely  fiscal  or 
financial ;  they  were  also  intended  as  a  check  upon  the  ra- 
pacity which  had  prevailed,  in  consequence  of  the  unity  of 
power  in  the  Viceroys  and  Captains-general ;  who,  upon  the 
institution  of  Intendancies,  were  reduced  to  the  charge  of  the 
political  and  military  administration  ;  and  as  the  Intendant's 
authority  was  co-extensive  in  fiscal  affairs  with  the  political 
and  military  authority  of  the  Captains-general,  he  exercised 
his  functions  by  deputies  in  the  subordinate  provinces ;  and 
without  the  Intendant's  concurrence  no  expenditure  could 
be  made ;  the  nomination  also  to  all  offices  under  his  au- 
thority was  in  him.  In  noticing  the  new  institutions,  this 
anaFogy  might  be  imperfectly  understood,  if  the  old  were  not 
referred  to  ;  and  it  is  very  evident  already,  that  in  the  new 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  55 

organization  of  the  intendancies,  which  are  now  extended  to 
each  of  the  12  greater  territorial  departments,  the  union  of  the 
civil  and  military  authority  with  the  fiscal,  as  was  the  case  be- 
fore the  reign  of  Charles  III,  the  same  room  for  abuse  exists, 
and  if  the  institution  of  the  intendancies  was  really  remedial, 
the  disease  must  necessarily  be  supposed  to  be  restored 
by  the  reunion  of  the  functions.  It  is  no  more  than  proper 
however,  to  remark,  that  in  that  part  of  the  Colombian  repub- 
lic, formerly  the  Viceroyalty  of  New  Granada,  no  Intendan- 
cy  was  ever  established  :  the  venerable  viceroy  Caballero  y 
Gongora,  who  was  also  archbishop,  who  was  in  personal  con- 
fidence and  correspondence  with  Charles  III,  signified  that 
he  must  decline  the  Viceroyalty,  if  an  Intendancy  was  to  be 
imposed  on  his  government ;  and  he  explicitly  stated  that  their 
only  effect  would  be  to  multiply  the  oppression  of  the  people, 
already  too  much  harassed  under  the  multitude  of  the  officers 
already  existing ;  and  New  Grenada,  and  Chile,  through  like 
representations,  were  not  burthened  with  Intendancies. 

A  station  uniting  all  the  powers  of  government  which  a 
desire  to  preserve  unity  and  simplicity  under  the  fluctuating 
progress  of  events  in  the  Revolution,  like  the  temporary  adop- 
tion of  the  Spanish  codes,  where  not  repugnant  to  freedom, 
was  a  very  delicate  and  difficult  task,  and  the  appointment  of 
general  Soublette  must  be  considered  as  no  light  testimony 
of  the  opinion  entertained  of  his  qualifications  by  those  who 
appointed  him. 

General  Soublette  is  a  native  of  Caracas,  of  French  descent, 
and  born  in  the  proper  time  and  place  to  develop  his  quali- 
fications and  arrive  at  eminence.  The  revolution,  at  its  open- 
ing, was  full  of  hazard  and  uncertainty,  difficulty  and  peril ; 
but  he,  with  the  generosity  and  sanguine  temper  of  youth, 
left  those  considerations  out  of  view  ;  obeyed  the  impulse  of 
the  age,  and  entered  the  ranks  of  the  army,  when  about  six- 
teen or  seventeen  years  old,  a  soldier  of  liberty  and  his  coun- 
try.    His  original  destination  appears  to  have  been  for  a 


56  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

mercantile  life,  and  the  habits  of  order  and  calculation,  ac- 
quired in  the  few  years  he  was  in  that  pursuit,  have  not  been 
disadvantageous  to  him.  In  mihtary  service  he  was  soon 
distinguished,  and  placed  in  charge  of  a  company,  and  his 
activity  and  talents,  in  some  arduous  campaigns,  obtained 
for  him  the  notice  and  the  confidence  oi  Bohvar  ;  for  a  time 
he  was  at  the  head  of  the  staff,  and  in  the  sanguinary  conflict 
at  Coxede,  earned  the  rank  of  General  of  brigade.  In  this 
character  he  commanded  a  corps  of  observation,  and  though 
the  meeting  was  so  sudden,  as  to  afford  no  leisure  to  make 
dispositions,  he  gained  a  complete  victory  over  the  Spanish 
General  la  Torre,  who  had  succeeded  in  command  in  Vene- 
zuela after  Morillo  had  negociated  his  escape. 

General  Soublettc  stands  about  five  feet  eleven  inches, 
erect,  slender,  and  easy  in  his  port.  His  countenance  is 
good,  and  eye  quick  and  inquisitive  ;  his  manner  unconstrain- 
ed, and  courteous ;  his  public  functions  are  performed 
"with  scrupulous  punctuality,  and  his  attendance  on  religious 
duties  regular,  which  has  silenced  many  pious  enemies  of 
the  revolution,  and  sustained  its  ecclesiastical  friends.  He  is 
married  to  a  lady  as  elegant  in  her  manners  as  himself,  and 
they  have  some  children. 

In  the  station  of  Intendant,  he  had  a  difficult  and  serious 
trust  to  fulfil ;  as  the  whole  of  the  functions  of  government 
devolved  on  him,  when  the  constitution  was  not  yet  formed, 
and  his  own  judgment  was  to  supply  the  place  of  a  definite 
system.  Besides  the  skill  requisite  to  conduct  affairs  at  any 
time,  he  required  moderation  and  firmness  ;  he  had  to  guard 
against  insidiousness  of  pretended  patriots,  and  the  jealousy 
of  local  self-love,  in  friends  to  the  revolution,  who  had  not 
yet  conquered  all  those  prejudices  of  education,  which  asso- 
ciate the  ideas  of  office  with  cast.  But  he  was  always  prepa- 
red, ready,  and  effective,  in  each  department  alike,  of  finance, 
war,  and  commerce,  to  an  extent  rarely  found  united  in  one 
man,  in  any  country. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  57 

I  had  opportunities  of  learning  much  private  history,  and 
some  secret,  in  which  his  capacity  was  not  less  conspicu- 
ous than  in  public,  and  as  in  every  revolution,  and  indeed 
in  every  popular  government,  parties  and  passions  produce 
conflicts  and  discolour  actions,  embarrassing  to  the  public 
functionary,  his  constancy,  and  the  confidence  of  Bolivar,  suc- 
ceeded much  better  in  the  government  of  Venezuela,  than 
any  of  his  predecessors,  and  whoever  he  may  be  that  may 
follow,  will  be  fortunate  if  he  succeed  as  well. 

In  1824  he  was  appointed  to  a  command  in  the  west,  and 
more  recently  called  to  Bogota,  to  hold  the  charge  of  the  War 
Department,  on  which  he  has  made  already  a  vcr}'  able  report. 

The  family  of  General  Lino  Clemente,  whom  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  knowing  in  Philadelphia,  I  found  the  same  amia- 
ble circle  in  prosperity,  that  characterised  their  exile  and  ad- 
versity,  and  was  received  by  them  with  the  same  modest  and 
unaffected  kindness.  The  general  was  absent  on  public  du- 
ty, but  his  good  and  lovely  lady  in  his  absence  performed 
the  duties  of  the  head  of  the  family  ;  I  have  seen  her,  with 
her  lovely  daughter,  without  any  superiors  in  beauty  or  grace 
in  the  ball  room  ;  and  the  next  day,  superintending  and  direct- 
ing the  operations  of  the  coffee  plantation,  with  the  same 
interesting  care  and  alacrity  ;  every  thing  in  motion,  with- 
out any  appearance  of  bustle  or  the  care  of  business. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  waiting  on  the  venerable  patriot  Mar- 
tin Tovar,  whose  brothers,  whose  venerable  wife,  and  inter- 
esting daughters,  suffered  so  much  from  their  devotion  to 
the  revolution.  The  history  of  their  sufferings  and  forti- 
tude, which  has  happily  triumphed,  would  form  an  interest- 
ing volume  ;  I  prefer  not  to  touch  here  what  has  been  made 
known  to  me  by  several  friends,  lest  I  should  not  do  it  jus- 
tice, and  above  all  lest  I  should  inadvertently  commit  some 
mistake  which  mighr  for  even  a  moment  give  any  of  those 
estimable  people  a  moment's  pain.  I  may,  however,  give  a 
short  sketch  of  his  public  character  in  a  subsequent  chapter. 

8 


58  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

It  would  be  occupying  too  much  space  to  detail  visits  of 
this  kind,  which  go  no  farther  in  illustrating  manners  and 
the  face  of  the  country,  to  which,  whatever  I  narrate,  will 
be  found  to  have  some  reference.     A  few  days'  residence 
enabled  me  to  become  acquainted  very  generally,  and  with 
the  city  and  environs.     On  our  entrance  from  the  Sierra 
Avila,  the  attention  was  engrossed  by  too  many  objects  to 
notice  any  distinctly.     Besides  that  the  streets  were  none 
of  them    more    than  twenty-five   feet   broad,  many   M'ere 
marked  on  the  fronts  by  horizontal  lines  of  the  three  colours, 
blue,  red,  and  yellow,  which  compose  the  Colombian   flag 
and  the  military  cockade  ;  and,  as  the  first  street  we  entered 
was  named  Carabobo,  from  the  signal   victory  obtained  at 
that  place,  I  found  that  the  streets  generally  had  undergone 
a  similar  revolutionary  change,  among  which  were  Coxede, 
from  another  battle,  le  Calle  de  la  Republica,  de  Libertad, 
Colombiano,  and  Bolivar,  &c.     The  fronts  of  many  houses 
bore   inscriptions  in  the  same  spirit  and  colours,  as  Viva 
Bolivar,    Viva   Colombia,    and    many    others.     Some    ac- 
counts I  had  read,  I  know  not  where,  had  led  me  to  expect 
hills,  or  abrupt  ascents  and  descents,  in  the  city  ;  but,  un- 
less  it  be  the  general  inclination  of  the  place,  the  greatest  in- 
clination from  the  north-west  angle  to  the  south-east,  and  a 
lateral  inclination  east  and  south,  I  could  discover  none. 
Conceive  a  chequer-board  elevated  at  one  corner,  the  posi- 
tion  of  the  plain  of  Caracas  may  be  conceived  ;  and  as  the 
height  of  the  gate  of  Pastora  is  computed  at  four  hundred 
feet  above  the  Guayra   on  the  south  side,  and  the  Plaza 
Mayor  or  Great  Square,  which  is  about  midway,   inclining 
to  the  south-east  of  the  gate  of  Pastora,  is  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  Guayra,  and  the  space  better  than  three  miles, 
the  slope  may  be  conceived.     The  ground  to  the  west  is 
not  more  elevated  than  the  plain  of  the  city  to  some  extent, 
beyond  which  there  is  a  gradual  rise,  though  not  to  the  ele- 
vation of  a  mountain  or  a  liill ;  and  from  the  lowest  angle, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  59 

the  level  line,  or  nearly  level  line  of  the  valley  of  Chacao  is 
perceptible,  but  not  very  distinctly  beyond  the  village  of 
Petare,  which  is  distinguished  by  an  elevated  white  object, 
which,  seen  from  the  distance,  appears  like  a  monument  or 
obelisk,  distant  about  seven  miles.  The  length  of  the  val- 
ley is  variously  estimated  at  from  fourteen  to  twenty  miles ; 
this  variation  may  arise  from  a  difference  in  the  points  of 
commencing  and  ending. 

The  city  is  crossed  from  north  to  south  by  three  streams, 
and  every  stream  is  called  a  rio  or  river.     They  have  their 
sources  in  the  Sierra,  and  though  their  streams  are  unequal 
in  volume  at  different  seasons,  they  are  never  wholly  dry. 
The  Caragoata  is  the  most  westward,  and  its  bed  bearing 
all  the  marks  of  its  occasional  fulness  and  violence  in  its 
deep  and  wild  furrowed  channel,  and  steep  clayey  banks ;  it 
separates  the  quarter  of  St.  Juan  from  the  rest  of  the  city, 
and  winding  near  the  lower  part  of  its  course,  to  the  east- 
ward of  south,  soon  falls  into  the  Guayra.      Over  the  ra- 
vine there  is  a  spacious  and  well  constructed   bridge,    of 
very  venerable  fashion,  but  of  good  workmanship  in  the  fa- 
brication, with  buttresses,  and  a  battlement  massy  enough 
to  sustain  a  torrent  of  tenfold  magnitude.     The  streets  ap- 
proach this  ravine,  but  it  is  not  to  be  seen  without  descend- 
ing into  it,  and  then,  unless  the  lofty  Silla,  nothing  is  to 
be  seen  but  its  torrent-torn  banks,  or  its  bed  composed  of 
rounded  stones.     This  bridge  is  made  memorable,  as  is  the 
ravine,  and  elevation  west  of  it  called  Mount  Calvary,  by 
conflicts  in  the  revolution,  in  which  the  gallant  daring  of 
General  Bermudez  is  spoken  of  with  merited  admiration. 
The  bridge  is  as  broad  as  any  of  the  streets,  and  the  dwel- 
ling houses  advance  to  the  battlements  on  each  side. 

The  rio  Catuche  issues  from  the  Sierra  more  to  the  east- 
ward, and  is  the  source  from  which  the  public  fountains  are 
all  supplied,  as  were  the  private  dwellings  before  the  earth- 
quake.    Many  of  the  houses  yet  receive  a  feeble  rill,  whose 


60  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

pipes  have  not  been  wholly  destroyed.  The  pipes  of  con- 
veyance were  of  pottery,  well  made,  and  very  sufficient  for 
all  ordinary  purposes,  and  might  have  st  od  for  ages,  had 
they  not  been  disturbed  by  the  agitation  of  the  earth.  The 
fountains  which  serve  the  public  are  built  of  well-wrought 
chisseled  stone,  and  I  did  not  hear  that  any  of  them  was 
disturbed :  the  stream  is  constant,  and  the  water  limpid. 

Those  fountains  are  among  the  few  good  things  for  which 
Colombia  is  indebted  to  the  Spaniards,  and  the  principal 
cities  and  towns  from  Laguayra  to  Bogota  are  adorned  and 
benefited  by  them.  They  are  generally  constructed  in  the 
same  style  and  of  like  matenials,  though  not  of  uniform  mag- 
nitude, nor  of  the  same  laboured  workmanship ;  but  a  de- 
scription of  one  will  give  a  good  idea  of  them  all.  A  base 
of  hewn  stone,  often  a  single  block,  of  six  to  eight  feet 
diameter,  generally  of  an  octagon  form,  risies  about  three 
and  a  half  feet  above  a  platform  which  is  ascended  by  two  or 
three  steps ;  on  the  upper  face  of  this  base  or  pedestal  is 
scooped  a  trough  or  bason,  from  the  centre  of  which  rises  a 
shaft  or  column,  capped  with  some  object,  an  urn  or  the 
like  ;  beneath  this  cap,  or  capital,  there  is  a  collar  or  mould- 
ing corresponding  in  place  with  the  astragal  on  an  architec- 
tural column,  but  projecting  more  ;  this  collar  is  perforated, 
and  tubes  issue  from  its  circumference,  through  which  the 
water,  conveyed  along  the  central  shaft,  issues  in  abundant 
gushing  rills  perhaps  five  or  six  feet  above  the  platform, 
which  descend  into  the  bason  beneath ;  the  overflowings  of 
these  issue  to  the "  centre  of  the  streets,  and  serve  to  keep 
the  gutters  constantly  clean. 

It  is  amusing  to  see  the  crowd  which,  at  particular  hours, 
come  to  these  fountains,  generally  women  ;  though  there  are 
men  who  make  a  livelihood  of  water- carrying.  The  women 
bring  an  earthen  pot  which  may  contain  three  or  four  gallons  ; 
if  the  crowd  be  great  round  the  bason  from  which  the  pots  are 
filled,  with  a  turtiima^  or  cup  made  of  a  calabash,  those  who, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  Qi 

rather  than  wait,  or  be  jostled  oat  of  their  turn,  bring  a  tube 
of  bamboo,  the  calibre  of  which  is  equal  to  that  of  the  tube 
in  the  collar  of  the  fountain  ;  one  end  of  this  tube  is  held  to 
the  fountain  above,  which  it  closes,  and  the  water  issues  into 
the  pot  or  jar ;  the  carrier  bears  her  tube  away  for  another 
occasion,  and  it  is  a  customary  domestic  utensil  preserved 
for  this  purpose.  Some  of  these  fountains  have  an  outer 
wali  or  battlement  to  the  platform,  handsomely  wrought, 
with  imitation  pannel-work  and  styles,  a  vase,  and  skirting 
and  capped  surbase ;  which  answer  the  purposes  of  orna- 
ment, and  prevent  excessive  crowds. 

There  are  five  bridges  of  different  degrees  of  workman- 
like merit,  but  all  of  the  utmost  utility,  across  the  Catuche ; 
there  may  be  more,  but  I  did  not  see  them  ;  these  and  other 
bridges  have  suffered  by  the  war,  but  the  time  cannot  be 
now  remote,  when  the  restoration  of  useful  and  ornamental 
public  works  will  engage  the  attention  of  the  public  authori- 
ties 

The  Anuco  supplies  all  the  eastern  part  of  the  city  with 
water.  Where  this  stream  approaches  the  once  lofty  church 
of  Candelaria,  the  pious,  who,  like  the  Greeks  and  Romans^ 
personified  every  stream  and  tree,  have  consecrated  the 
Anuco  by  transferring  to  it  the  name  of  Candelaria ;  but  the 
once  lofty  church  is  now  a  heap  of  dust,  a  living  grave 
prostrated  by  the  earthquake  of  1812,  and  burying  in  the 
earth  of  its  proud  and  cumbrous  walls,  the  unhappy  beings 
who  expected  to  find  in  it  a  refuge.  The  resolution  too 
has  had  influence  on  the  flexibility  of  the  beautiful  Castilian 
language,  by  introducing  a  disposition  to  laconism,  and  call 
things  by  their  right  names ;  the  river  is  once  more  gene- 
rally called  by  its  pagan  name  of  Anuco.  The  pious,  how* 
ever,  have  been  successful  in  sanctifying  the  contiguous 
bridge,  which,  not  being  a  pagan  edifice,  is  called  the  bridge 
of  Candelaria.  If  good  taste,  public  benefit,  and  skill,  were 
objects  of  canonization,  the  builder  ought  to  have  a  niche 


6S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

among  the  saints,  for,  besides  its  light  and  handsome  struc- 
ture, it  unites  the  plain  of  Chacao,  on  the  east,  to  the  city  on 
its  west  side  :  before  the  erection  of  this  bridge,  the  bed  of 
the  Anuco  was,  at  this  place,  a  deep,  wild  ravine,  like  the 
upper  part  of  the  Caraguata, — tradition  says,  impassable 
at  some  seasons,  and  in  a  Catholic  country  we  must  believe 
tradition  :  it  is  now  not  merely  a  safe,  but  a  pleasant  bridge 
to  travel  over,  at  all  seasons,  in  this  delicious  climate. 

There  is  a  fountain  at  an  adjacent  village,  a  mile  distant, 
which  supplies  water,  said  to  have  peculiar  medicinal  quali- 
ties, but  I  did  not  see  it. 

Besides  the  domestic  benefits  of  those  rios  and  the  foun- 
tains they  supply,  their  streams  furnish  supplies  to  sur- 
rounding plantations,  to  which  their  contributions  are  con- 
ducted by  little  mounds  and  banks  of  earth,  which  bespeak 
sagacity  and  great  industry.  These  streams  also  conduce  to 
that  exemplary  cleanliness  which  strikes  the  eye  even  of  a 
Philadelphian.  A  citizen  of  Bath,  in  England,  might  find 
in  Caracas  a  rival,  though  not  in  the  beauty  of  its  freestone 
palaces,  nor  in  the  breadth  of  its  streets,  but  in  the  purity  and 
cleanliness  of  its  pavement.  Bath,  too,  surpasses  every 
town  in  England  for  its  pavement,  but  the  pavers  of  Colom- 
bia surpass  them  in  skill  and  judgment;  and  I  may  as  well 
discharge  my  ideas  on  the  subject  here  as  any  where  else,  as 
I  have  been  labouring  under  the  impression,  from  the  hour 
I  first  set  foot  in  Laguayra ;  so  I  shall  turn  back  to  that 
beginning  of  my  subject,  and  say  all  I  have  to  say  on  it  at 
once,  foM  find  topics  multiply,  and  fear,  at  the  present  rate, 
instead  of  issuing  a  single  volume,  to  send  forth  twins. 

I  noticed  the  pavements  in  the  entrances  of  houses,  the 
patios.,  the  streets,  and  ascending  steep  narrow  lanes  of  La- 
guayra ;  the  pavement  of  the  causeway,  up  the  Sierra  Avila, 
and  down  the  back  of  the  mountain  into  the  streets,  is  excel- 
lent. In  spaces  nearly  level,  or  but  gently  inclined,  they 
do  not  use  the  minute  precautions  that  they  constantly  fol- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  63 

low  in  more  steep  ascents  or  descents ;  but  the  general  sys- 
tem is  not  to  pave  in  large  spaces  the  whole  length  of  a  street 
as  we  do,  but  in  compartments,  and  the  figure  of  these  com- 
partments are  not  regular  squares  or  circles,  but  irregular 
triangles.  Thus,  in  ascending  the  steep  sides  of  Avila,  were 
the  soil  naked,  it  must  be  inevitably  washed  into  ravines, 
like  those  in  the  route  to  Honda.  On  first  ascending,  the 
ground  being  prepared  as  usual,  the  line  in  which  water  would 
descend  is  perceived  from  the  form  of  the  surface,  and  a 
short  line  of  stones  on  the  edge  are  set  up  at  right  angles 
with  that  line  of  descent ;  out  of  some  part  of  this  upper 
line,  another  line  of  strait  stones  on  the  edges  is  set  up, 
which  spaces  are  filled  carefully  with  stones  of  round  upper 
surfaces,  as  nearly  alike  as  conveniently  offer ;  and  thus  in 
succession  upward,  triangles  of  pavement  are  formed,  having 
regard  to  the  dispersion  of  the  descending  water,  which, 
checked  in  small  quantities  by  these  traversing  lines,  pre- 
vents the  accumulation  of  water  too  much  on  one  line  of  des- 
cent, and  scatters  it  among  many  lines,  constantly  interrupt- 
ing and  breaking  it  again.  In  the  progress  of  the  ascent, 
care  is  taken  that  the  water  thus  broken,  do  not  descend 
far  down ;  other  lines  of  more  weighty  and  larger  stones, 
arrest  them  and  carry  them  over  the  side  of  the  precipice ; 
so  that,  however  heavy  the  rain  may  be  above,  it  is  not  suf- 
fered to  pass  in  a  volume  down  the  road,  but  is  at  every 
twenty  or  thirty  yards  carried  off,  as  is  done  on  our  northern 
roads,  by  small  banks  which  turn  the  water  into  the  ditches. 
There  is  this  further  advantage  :  I  saw  a  patch  of  pavement 
under  repair  in  Laguayra,  but  the  patch  broken  up  was 
confined  within  one  of  those  triangles.  The  stones  on  the 
edge  did  not  permit  the  damage  to  extend ;  in  one  of  our 
streets,  the  passage  would  be  interrupted  a  week  to  make 
such  a  repair  as  was  made  at  Laguayra,  a  street  not  more 
than  twenty  feet  broad,  the  great  and  only  thoroughfare, 
without  interrupting  the  passage  for  one  moment. 


64  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

I  could  not  but  regret  to  find  that  a  city  like  Caracas 
has  no  sideway  of  stone  or  brick  for  foot  passengers.  There 
are,  to  be  sure,  no  wheel  carriages  for  burden  or  pleasure  to 
endanger  the  foot  passenger,  and  the  centre  of  the  street  is 
the  only  gutter  or  channel  for  the  flow  of  water  ;  the  pave- 
ment, too,  is  as  good  as  a  pavement  of  round  stones  can 
be ;  but  then,  where  the  women  are  so  numerous,  and  so 
delicate,  and  their  feet  so  small,  to  a  proverb  small,  it  is  by  no 
means  indicative  of  Spanish  gallantry,  that  the  streets  should 
be  so  rough,  as  if  intended  to  deter  them  from  the  exhibi- 
tion of  a  satin  or  a  sarsnet  slipper  on  a  beautiful  foot,  or  the 
display  of  an  elegant  ankle  in  a  proverbially  neat  silk  stock- 
ing, in  the  public  street ;  I  thought,  that  like  the  style  of 
the  buildings,  there  was  something  oriental  in  it ;  for  the 
Mahomedan  cities  of  Asia  are  thus  narrow  and  forbidding, 
though  not  so  neat  as  Caracas  pavements,  unless  in  the  area 
of  the  Zenana  or  the  porch. 

This  style  of  paving  in  triangles  is  carried  out  of  town,  and 
in  a  manner  to  merit  the  imitation  of  people  more  vain  of  their 
progress  in  the  arts,  however  recently  acquired.  I  had  made 
several  visits  to  the  valley  of  Chacao,  of  some  of  which  I  will 
give  an  account,  because  they  go  to  shew  the  manners  and 
stale  of  society.  In  those  visits,  we  sometimes  passed  a  ravine 
that  had  been  tremendous,  rocky,  and  its  sides  composed  of 
a  soapy  clay.  It  was  not  improved  by  a  bridge,  but  in  a 
manner  less  architectural  and  expensive,  yet  equally  effective 
for  communication.  The  steep  sides  of  the  ravine  had  been 
perlbrated  so  as  to  graduate  a  road  of  descent,  to  a  given 
point  of  the  side  of  the  ravine  ;  twenty  or  thirty  feet  below 
the  line  of  crossing,  a  firm  massy  wall  of  stone,  put  together 
with  good  masonry,  was  built  across  the  ravine,  which  was 
more  than  one  hundred  feet  broad ;  above  this  wall,  the 
space  was  filled  up  with  the  excavated  earth,  and  other 
earth  removed  from  above,  so  as  to  spread  the  water  over  a 
greater  expanse,  which  was  before  continually  working  a 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  dS 

wedge-shaped  trench  below.  This  space,  thus  filled  up  and 
gently  sloped  towards  the  transverse  w.ill,  -was  carefully  pa- 
ved with  round  stones,  in  the  manner  before  described,  and 
thus  when  the  floods  came  on,  the  water  having  been  de- 
prived of  its  power  in  volume,  by  dispersing  it  over  a  pave- 
ment which  constantly  arrested  and  turned  aside  its  current, 
rendered  the  place  passable  with  safety  at  all  times ;  and  the 
graduated  access  on  each  side,  paved  in  like  manner  be- 
yond the  summit,  was  not  to  admit  of  dilapidation  on  either 
side.  It  was  a  highway,  and  a  great  thoroughfare  from  the 
adjacent  villages.  The  water  which  flings  itself  over  the 
wall  in  the  wet  season  forms  a  frothy  cascade.  I  thought  it 
would  some  day  be  spoiled,  by  being  drawn  ofF  to  mills 
which  may  require  water  power  only  a  part  of  the  year. 

The  characteristic  orientalism  of  the  buildings,  as  well  as 
the  pavements,  as  I  mentioned,  struck  me  at  Laguayra ;  it 
was  more  striking  at  Caracas.  The  ground  plan  ample, 
walls  massy,  lofty  folding  gates,  with  a  paved  entrance,  and 
sometimes  another  gate  and  wicket  within  the  porch — the 
patio  or  open  square  within,  the  corridore  on  each  face  of  the 
patio,  the  naked  tiled  floor,  the  broad,  rude,  unornamented, 
steep-stepped  stairs  of  two  flights,  ascending  to  the  upper 
floor,  the  loity  ceilings,  or  the  timbers  exposed  without  a 
ceiling  ;  the  ample  apartments,  windows  without  glass,  but 
closed  by  Venetians ;  no  fireplaces  nor  chimneys,  walls  na- 
ked, without  ornaments  of  portraits  or  other  paintings,  as  if 
the  law  of  Mahomed  had  accompanied  the  style  of  building, 
and  exacted  obedience  to  the  law  of  Moses,  to  the  letter, 
against  the  fine  arts  ;  but  I  forgot,  there  is  an  exception,  and  it 
is  an  exception  every  where  ;  there  is  no  house  without  a  whole 
or  half  length  of  the  virgin  ;  I  have  been  so  profane  at  times, 
as  to  suspect  female  influence  in  this  particular,  and  as  the  wo*' 
men  are  really  beautiful,  and  hold  a  sway  over  the  other  sex  that 
is  proverbial,  they  had  induced  this  general  devotion  to  the 
virgin  from  the  pride  of  sex.     A  Bramin  once  said  to  me 

9 


66  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

in  Bengal,  that  there  were  churches  erected  to  St.  Mary  and 
St.  Antony,  but  -no  church  dedicated  to  the  God  of  creation; 
here  there  appeared  to  be  no  divinity,  but  the  favourite  of 
the  fair ;  I  have  been  told  that  St.  Joseph  appears  in  some  of 
the  houses,  but  I  never  was  so  fortunate  as  to  see  him ;  per- 
haps he  is  kept  in  some  back  apartment,  or  in  a  corner. 

The  Spaniards  had  left  in  some  oi  the  houses  testimonials  of 
their  taste  ;  the  house  of  Stnora  Antonia  Bolivar,  the  very  first 
I  entered,  presented  one.  The  house,  it  seems,  had  been  the 
head  quarters  of  the  last  of  the  royal  generals,  and  he  had 
caused  the  principal  apartment  to  be  decorated,  by  an  intended 
representation  of  a  railed  gallery,  in  front  of  a  hedge  of  flow- 
ers, painted  in  fresco.  The  execution  was  laboured,  but  the 
flowers  were  all  monsters,  very  much  in  the  style  of  an  In- 
dia palampore,  where  laurels  and  poppies,  roses  and  lilies, 
tulips  and  altheas,  laburnums  and  marvels  of  Peru,  appeared 
to  issue,  like  the  seven  golden  candlesticks,  all  from  one  stem. 
The  good  lady,  at  the  first  Ulush,  expressed  her  disgust  at 
the  profanation  of  her  walls,  and  determined  that  she  should 
not  be  reproached  by  permittmg  such  incongruities  to  stain 
her  dwelling. 

The  departure  from  the  Asiatic  style  of  building  of  dwel- 
lings, in  the  omission  of  flat  terraced  roofs,  surprised  me  ; 
because,  where  there  is  such  an  abundance  of  lime,  timber, 
and  tiles,  and  no  frosts  to  disturb  the  plaister,  no  country 
could  be  more  suitable  for  flat  roofs,  nor  is  any  form  of  build- 
ing more  eligible  or  delightful  in  such  a  climate.  The  cli- 
mate of  upper  and  lower  Hindustan,  is  much  more  sultry 
than  any  part  of  Colombia,  with  the  exception  of  some  parts 
of  the  coast ;  there  the  roads  are  never  broken,  nor  the  houses 
injured  by  frost.  The  rains  are  much  heavier  than  in  any 
part  of  Colombia  that  I  was  in,  yet  the  Asiatic  houses  are 
impervious  to  water  ;  and  for  evening  recreation,  or  for  so- 
cial enjoyment  in  company  even  late  at  night,  the  terrace  roof 
affords  aii  exquisite  luxury.     I  saw  only  one  terraced  roof 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  6T 

in  Colombia,  that  was  at  Valencia,  and,  though  not  construct- 
ed in  as  neat  a  style  as  those  of  Bengal,  the  advantage  of  it 
was  indisputable.  The  roofs  in  Caracas  and  in  other  places 
are  of  tile,  of  the  C  or  the  S  shape  ;  they  are  unnecessarily 
heavy  and  ill  wrought,  and  the  roofs,  which  are  angular,  re- 
quire heavy  timber  to  support  them.  But  the  absence  of 
the  useful  arts  in  Colombia  cannot  surprise  any  one  conver- 
sant with  the  policy  of  Spain.  Those  who  were  the  first 
conquerors  carried  with  them  the  Moorish  style  of  architec- 
ture ;  and  they  continue  to  imitate  them  at  this  day,  while 
other  nations  have  been  improving  all  the  arts  and  comforts 
of  social  life ;  the  Spanish  policy  forbid  intercourse — and 
the  arts  were  interdicted,  lest  a  knowledge  of  the  enjoyments 
of  foreign  nations  should  endanger  the  Spanish  dominion. 

But  the  materials  of  which  dwellings  are  constructed  is 
matter  of  more  surprise  ;  nay  a  prejudice  continues  to  pre- 
vail, with  the  examples  of  the  earthquake  of  1812  before 
their  eyes,  that  an  earth,  which  they  say  is  adhesive,  is  pre- 
ferable to  wood  or  stone.  This  idea  has  been  vindicated 
upon  the  ground  of  earthquakes  having  occurred,  and  that 
if  the  houses  were  built  of  stone,  and  an  earthquake  happen, 
they  must  be  buried  under  the  ruins.  Surprising  to  say, 
the  effect  said  to  be  apprehended  from  stone  buildings,  has 
happened  from  buildings  constructed  oi pita,  for  this  is  the 
name  they  give  the  material.  The  houses  of  pita  have  not 
only  failed,  but  they  have  become  the  graves  of  their  in- 
mates ;  the  crumbling  earth  actually  forming  mounds  over 
those  who  expected  to  find  security  from  them ;  while  the 
buildings  of  stone,  without  any  exception  that  I  could  learn, 
have  uniformly  remained,  and  continue  uninjured.  The 
steeple  of  the  Cathedral  had  a  base  of  stone  of  one  third  its 
elevation ;  the  other  two  thirds  were  pita^  and  these  two 
thirds  fell,  while  the  stone  part  stands  unimpaired.  I  went  to 
see  a  house  of  three  stories,  in  a  street  east  of  my  residence ; 
it  belonged  to  some  enemy  of  the  revolution  who  had  fled. 


63  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

It  was  built  of  stone  before  the  earthquake,  and  is  the  only 
three  story  house  in  the  city,  where  it  still  stands  in  per- 
fect order. 

Yet  these  facts  have  not  produced  any  change.  I  in- 
dulged my  curiosity  in  looking  at  the  process  of  building 
with  pita.  The  ground  plan  being  measured  off  with  lines, 
the  art  of  building  commences  with  a  casson  or  box,  usu- 
ally five  feet  long,  two  or  three  feet  broad,  and  the  same 
depth,  but  without  top  or  bottom.  This  casson  is  placed 
first  at  an  angle  of  the  proposed  structure,  the  earth,  said 
to  be  adhesive,  is  brought  in  sacks  of  cowhide  upon  mules* 
backs,  and  it  is  gradually  thrown  into  the  casson.  One  or 
two  men,  with  instruments  like  pavers'  rammers,  place 
themselves  in  the  casson,  and  sprinkling  occasionally  a  little 
water,  in  some  instances  some  slacked  lime,  they  continue 
till  the  casson  is  full,  when  they  proceed  with  another,  and 
another,  till  the  first  range  is  completed  all  round,  leaving 
Spaces  where  doors  and  windows  are  to  be  placed  ;  they 
commence  to  lay  another  range  of  pita  beaten  down  in  the 
same  way  above  the  first,  and  so  till  the  wall  has  reached  its 
proposed  elevation  ;  the  wall  plates,  and  principals,  and  rafters 
are  not  placed  till  a  time  when  it  is  supposed  the  whole  com- 
position of  the  wall  is  dry  and  firm.  The  interior  partitions 
are  of  the  same  material ;  the  floors  are  composed  of  tiles 
about  fifteen  inches  square,  and  about  one  and  a  half  or  two 
inches  thick  ;  they  are  coarse,  though  well  burnt,  but  con- 
stantly warped  both  on  the  surface  and  the  edges ;  no  pains 
are  taken  to  dress  them,  and  make  a  square  form  and  edge  ; 
the  intervals  between  them  are  too  open  to  admit  of  clean- 
liness but  by  excessive  labour,  and  I  have  heard  it  urged 
that  it  was  pernicious  to  health  to  wash  or  sprinkle  the  tiles, 
so  that,  in  houses  of  great  respectability,  these  channels  be- 
tween the  tiles  become  the  receptacles  of  dust,  and  the  nur- 
sery of  fleas ;  of  which,  in  companies,  where  the  floors  are 
of  this  kind,  there  is  constant  evidence  of  their  activity,  ais 
they  are  reputed  to  be  prone  to  attack  silk  stockings. 


60 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Plaza  Mayor— described — market  abundant — edible  roots— fruit— the  plan- 
tain and  banana— Jbrage  for  cattle— precautions  as  to  forage,  food,  and  cookery 
on  the  road — the  Plaza,  the  place  of  militia  parade  and  all  public  festivities — 
bull-fights,  some  account  ot^ — this  Plaza  the  place  where  the  patriots  were 
executed — and  convicted  murderers  now  -Cisneros,  a  bandit — other  Plazas 
— the  University — Library — antiquated  learning — the  Mathematical  Hall — dia- 
grams fresh  on  the  board — Portrait  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  over  professors'  chair 
— Students  wear  a  fantastic  costume — the  productions  of  the  press  in  <  ircu- 
lation — state  of  medical  profession — the  clergy  aim  to  monopolize  education 
throughout  the  world — opulence  and  power  of  the  Clergy — Convents — Ca- 
thedral of  Caracas — Archbishop  and  Hierarchy — patronage  of  the  church- 
Bishops  appointed  by  the  King  since  1508 — now  by  the  Republic. 

The  Plaza  Mayor,  or  Great  Square,  is  that  of  all  others 
which  is  most  remarkable.  I  have  before  observed  it  stands 
two  hundred  feet  lower  than  the  horizontal  line  at  the  bar-- 
rier  of  Pastora,  and  two  hundred  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
Guayra.  The  street  of  Carabobo  forms  its  east  face,  from 
which  it  is  separated  on  that  side  by  an  iron  railing.  On 
the  opposite  side,  with  its  vvest  end  on  the  street,  stands  the 
cathedral.  The  north  side  of  the  square  is  formed  by  ano- 
ther street,  also  separated  from  the  Plazu  by  a  railing,  and 
its  prolonged  line  is  above  that  of  the  Plaza,  which  has 
been  cut  to  a  horizontal  plane,  and  from  which  there  is  a 
flight  of  steps  ascending  to  the  street  on  the  north  face,  a  con- 
spicuous spot,  where  pavilions  are  erected  on  festive  times, 
and  odes  and  choral  music  performed.  The  vvest  face  is  oc- 
cupied by  a  range  of  buildings  of  two  stories,  which  is  the 
common  prison,  but  towards  the  square  it  has  no  unsightly 
appearance  ;  a  street  parallel  with  that  of  Carabobo  is  on  the 
outer  side  of  the  prison.  The  south  side  is  also  faced  with 
buildings  occupied  as  shops,  in  which  draperies  and  milline- 


70  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

ries  are  sold ;  and  on  its  east  side  a  street,  which  in  the  prolon- 
gation east  and  west  crosses  the  street  of  Carabobo.  On  this 
street  stands  the  university,  of  which  I  shall  presently  take 
some  notice. 

'  The  PJaza,  occupying  about  the  same  space  as  one  of  the 
manzanas,  or  blocks  of  buildings,  must  be  about  three  hun- 
dred Icet  or  more  on  every  side  ;  it  is  paved  throughout ;  it 
is  the  public  market-place,  where  every  kind  of  food  is  sold, 
and  where  the  display  of  abundance  and  variety,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  flesh  meats,  can  be  no  where  exceeded.  Vegeta- 
bles and  fruit,  edible  roots,  such  as  are  common  to  our  mar- 
kets, and  several  unknown  to  us,  such  as  the  aracatcha,  yuc- 
cas y  and  the  apio  ;  of  one  description  of  the  yucca,  the  well 
known  cassava  bread  of  the  West  Indies,  and  of  Colombia 

iJtoo,  is  made ;  the  other  yucca  is  prepared  as  we  prepare  tur- 
nips, but  it  is  a  thick  carrot-shaped  root,  white  as  a  turnip, 
but  more  substantial  when  dressed.  The  apio  is  the  root  of 
the  cellery^  it  is  as  large  as  the  common  beet,  but  when 
dressed  shows  the  pale  yellow  colour  of  the  inner  part  of  a 
carrot,  and  is  equal  to  the  parsnip,  of  which,  as  well  as  car- 
rots, beets,  and  many  kinds  of  sweet  potatoes,  there  are  abun- 
dance ;  the  common  potato  I  no  where  in  Colombia  found 
equal  in  quality,  or  so  large  in  size,  as  in  Europe  or  India, 
or  our  own  markets  ;  the  mode  of  cultivation  is  bad,  and  I 
saw  a  very  learned  and  wise  man,  in  all  other  respects,  di- 
recting his  paisano  to  select  the  smallest  potatoes  for  seed  ! 
Nor  could  he  be  persuaded  that  these  stunted  and  imperfect 
vegetable  roots,  would  produce  a  worse  fruit  than  the  seed 
of  a  full  grown  and  large  potato.  The  pulse  are  also  abun- 
dant, and  of  kinds  not  common  in  the  United  States ;  beans 
of  several  kinds,  vetches,  caravanches,  &c.,  the  sesamum, 
and  twenty  kinds  of  maize. 

Oranges  large,  rich,  and  of  fine  flavour ;  the  pine  apple 
in  the  utmost  richness  and  flavour,  the  sweet  banana  of  dif- 
ferent kinds ;  and  the  giant  banana  or  plantain,  which  is  to 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  71 

the  great  mass  of  the  population  of  South  America,  what 
the  potato  is  to  the  Irish  peasantry ;  it  is  most  abundant, 
and  a  nutritious  food  ;  it  is  insipid  in  the  raw  state,  however 
ripe,  and  is  therefore  eaten  boiled  or  roasted ;  it  is  of  pit  asant 
flavour,  not  unlike  a  sweet  potato  roasted ;  when  boiled  in 
soup  it  is  mealy,  like  a  good  potato,  and  in  this  way  is  cut 
into  short  pieces.  The  plant  upon  which  it  grows,  though 
bearing  the  elevation  and  appearance  of  a  tree,  has  no  wood 
in  its  stem;  it  is  a  fibrous  annual  plant,  and  with  leaves 
from  six  to  eight  feet  long.  The  plantain  does  not  grow 
single,  but  in  rows  of  unequal  numbers,  on  a  strong  fibre 
upon  which  fifty  or  more  grow ;  and  to  the  length  of  nine 
or  ten  inches  each,  some  single  plantains  weighing  two 
pounds.  The  peach  and  the  quince,  in  perfection,  find  their 
way  from  places  at  a  distance,  and  apples  also,  but  not  equal 
to  those  of  the  United  States ;  grapes,  the  nispero  or  med- 
lar, and  many  other  fruits,  the  names  of  which  I  have  not 
noted,  and  have  forgotten. 

The  heaps  of  onions,  and  mule  loads  of  garlic,  are  here 
contrasted  with  the  fragrance  of  beautiful  flowers,  the  wild 
cinnamon,  pimento,  and  other  aromatic  plants  ;  red  and  green 
peppers  of  numerous  kinds;  the  roots  in  large  piles,  the 
lighter  articles  and  fruit  in  baskets  of  Indian  fabric ;  rice  of 
excellent  quality,  Indian  meal,  wheaten  and  barley  flour. 
Bundles  of  ripe  sugar  cane,  and  stacks  of  molacha^  or  unripe 
maize,  both  brought  to  market  for  forage.  The  unripe 
maize  stalks  are  the  produce  of  the  imperfect  grains  of  maize 
separated  in  cleaning ;  it  is  cast  without  ploughing  or  har- 
rowing upon  some  otherwise  unappropriated  spot,  and  is 
taken  away  for  forage  while  the  plant  is  young  and  fit  for 
mastication  by  mules  and  horses.  Throughout  the  country 
the  feed  for  mules  and  horses  is  one  or  other  of  these  articles. 
The  animals  prefer  the  young  sugar  cane  to  every  other  food, 
but  it  is  not  every  where  to  be  had  ;  the  molacha^  or  unripe 
maize  stalks,  is  next  preferred  ;  and  this  also  is  not  to  be  had 


72  VISIT   TO   COLOMBIA. 

in  some  places  on  an  interior  journey ;  barley,  not  in  the 
grain,  but  green  in  the  ear,  is  the  next  forage,  and  it  is  sown 
with  the  view  to  cutting  in  the  green  state.  These  articles  are 
brought  to  market  in  the  principal  cities ;  but  the  traveller 
who  is  a  stranger,  unless  he  has  an  experienced  servant,  will 
not  find  it  an  easy  task  to  procure  forage  distant  from  towns ; 
and  it  is  requisite,  in  such  circumstances,  to  be  prepared  in 
advance,  and  to  carry  a  supply  of  Indian  corn,  as  he  cannot 
proceed  without  it ;  and  the  like  precautions  will  be  requi- 
site in  many  places,  as  to  the  travellers'  own  food,  and  such 

.^cooker)'  as  he  may  need. 

^  Of  the  table  vegetables,  the  Caracas  markets  present  as 
much  as  there  is  demand  for,  and  equal  to  the  Philadelphia 
market  in  quality,  and  at  lower  rates,  such  as  celiery,  lettuce, 
spinach,  &c.  The  markets  are  held  on  stated  days,  early  in 
the  morning,  but  articles  of  necessity  may  be  had  there  every 
morning.  The  whole  marketing  is  over  before  noon,  and 
the  square  is  usually  swept,   unless  some  public  occurrence 

i    interrupts  the  operation. 

The  Plaza  is  a  place  of  military  parade  for  the  regulars, 
and  of  muster  for  militia.  There  public  festivities  and  musi- 
cal celebrations  of  the  festive  kind  take  place,  with  elegant 
bands  of  music  and  poetical  compositions  prepared  for  such 
occasions ;  followed  by  bull  fights  and  fire-works.  With- 
out intending  or  expecting  it,  I  found  myself,  after  a  ram- 
ble in  different  parts  of  the  city,  present  at  what  is  called  a 
bull-fight,  but  which  I  should  call  a  worrying  of  bulls  :  I  did 
not  regret  the  incident,  however,  because  no  accident  occurred, 
and  1  should  not  otherwise  have  been  so  well  abie  to  judge 
of  the  intrepidity  and  dextrous  skill  of  those  who  ventured, 
with  so  much  confidence,  to  present  themselves  on  horse- 
back before  an  enraged  animal.  Here  it  is  that  tht  paisano, 
or  countryman,  enters  into  competition  with  the  city  caba- 
Hero,  and  exhibit  their  dtxterity  in  horsemansldp,  and  in 
literally  overthrowing  the  infuriate  animal.     The  labouring 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  78 

jjcople  of  the  suburbs  and  villages  adjacent,  come  hither 
mounted  on  horses  of  about  thirteen  hands  high,  spirited, 
muscular,  and  well  knit,  hardy,  and  well  formed  animals, 
and  in  the  most  perfect  command  ;  the  riders  either  in  the 
smock  frock  or  shirt  over  the  pantaloons,  and  the  tail  or 
skirts  of  the  shirt  in  rustic  embroidery  ;  the  feet  with  shoes 
or  paragattas,  often  naked,  and  carrying  on  the  heel  a  tremen- 
dous pair  of  spurs,  or  only  a  single  spur.  Others  with  the 
romero,  sometimes  of  cotton,  with  broad  stripes  of  blue ; 
or  the  blanket  of  the  same  size,  that  is,  about  two  yards  long, 
and  about  the  centre  a  slit,  though  which  the  head  is  thrust, 
and  the  ends  hang  before  and  behind,  and  being  broad 
enough  to  cover  both  arms  to  the  elbows,  leaves  the  limbs 
free ;  others  of  a  degree  of  opulence  more  advanced,  come  in 
cuerpo^  and  handsomely  dressed  ;  all  with  hats  of  straw  or  of 
the  fibres  of  the  Cuquisias^  (American  aloe)  or  the  Palmyra 
palm :  men  on  foot  sport  with  the  animal  by  presenting 
themselves  in  his  front,  with  their  romeros  or  cloaks  in  hand, 
which,  when  the  bull  charges  at  them,  they  dexterously  cast 
over  his  head  and  jump  aside.  Many  assail  the  animal  at 
once  in  this  way,  while  others  seize  the  tail,  whicji  instantly 
induces  a  plunge  forward ;  the  horseman  takes  occasion 
when  the  bull  escapes  from  those  on  foot,  to  pursue  him^ 
and,  on  horseback,  irritates  him  in  the  same  way  ;  and  it  is 
surprising  in  what  command  he  has  his  horse,  usually  evad- 
ing the  charge,  by  throwing  his  cloak,  as  usual,  and,  in  the 
language  of  the  manege,  by  a  demi-volt,  or  a  peroiiette^  with- 
out moving  his  horse's  hind  feet  from  his  position,  comes 
round  on  his  haunches ;  the  poor  animal  carrying  off  the 
cloak,  until  feeling  the  efforts  of  the  pursuers  to  seize  his 
tail,  he  plunges  with  more  desperation,  and,  what  is  very  ex- 
traordinary, among  a  crowd,  to  whom,  from  his  apprt- hensions 
of  his  pursuers,  he  appears  indifferent.  Six  bulls  were  at 
one  time  in  the  Plaza  on  one  occasion,  and  some  hundred 
persons  on  foot,  and  more  than  fifty  on  horseback.     But 

10 


74  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  great  feat  of  competition  among  the  cavaliers,  is  to  bring 
the  bull  to  the  ground,   not  with  darts  or  spears,  for  these, 
nor  indeed  any  other  weapon  but  the  single  hand  of  the  in- 
trepid horseman  is  used.     It  is  in  the  pursuit,  when  the  buU 
is  enraged,  and  bounds  forward  in  its  fury,  that  this  feat  was 
two  or  three  times  performed  on  this  occasion.     While  the 
bull  is  in  full  career,  the  horsemen  contend  at  the  full  gallop 
to  seize  the  tail,   and  when  this  is  effected,   to  so  twist  the 
tail,  as  to  form    what    sailors   call    a  half-bight    or  knot, 
and  holding  it  so  firm  that  much  agony  is  produced,  the  rider 
gives  a  jerk,  and  the  bull  is  thrown  to  the  ground.     It  may 
be  conceived  vv^hat  intrepidity,  and  what   muscular  power, 
the  rider   must  have,   who  can  thus  prostrate  an  animal  so 
powerful  and  weighty  ;  for  the  black  cattle  of  Colombia  are, 
wherever   I   have  seen  them, — and  I   have  seen    millions, 
more  uniformly  fine  animals  than  I  have  seen  in  England  or 
C  the  United  States. 

This  plaza,  appropriated  to  so  many  uses,  serves  also  for 
purposes  more  serious.  It  was  on  this  square  that  so  many 
virtuous  men  were  condemned  and  suffered  death,  victims 
to  the  jealous  tyranny  of  Spain,  and  often  to  the  cruel  pas- 
sions of  the  local  rulers  ;  men  whose  virtues  were  objects  of 
terror,  who  being  beloved  by  their  neighbours,  kindred,  and 
countrymen,  were  therefore  guilty  in  the  apprehensions  of 
despotism.  I  could  designate  and  give  the  history  of  some 
of  those  victims  with  which  I  became  acquainted  ;  and  many 
more  of  no  less  celebrity  and  worth  also  fell  sacrifices,  whose 
memory  is  embalmed  in  the  hearts  of  their  kindred  and  fel- 
low-citizens ;  but  they  belong  to  history,  and  I  do  not  deem 
myself  authorised  to  relate  what  was  made  known  to  me  in 
the  confidence  of  private  intercourse — the  pen  of  history  is 
already  engaged  in  preparing  the  record  of  Colombian  sa- 
crifices, and  the  devotion  of  its  martyrs  to  freedom. 

It  is  in  the  same  plaza  that  malefactors  also  are  executed  ; 
while  I  was  in  Caracas,  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  valley 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  15 

of  the  Tuy  and  other  surrounding  valleys,  were  infested  by  a 
banditti,  under  a  desperado,  of  the  name  of  Cisneros ;  he  was 
in  the  correspondence  and  pay  of  the  Spanish  general  Mo- 
rales, and  committed  the  most  daring  outrages,  murders,  and 
robberies  ;  the  police  of  the  city  had  employed  every  means 
of  stratagem  and  force  to  seize  him  ;  for  a  long  time  without 
success  :  he  liad  the  hardihood  to  enter  the  city  disguised, 
and  send  notice  to  the  police  that  he  was  there,  but  not  until 
he  had  previously  prepared  to  decamp.  In  one  of  those  ad- 
ventures, he  had  two  of  his  band  with  him,  and  they  were 
traced  to  their  rendezvous,  only  a  few  minutes  after  Cisneros 
and  one  of  his  band  had  departed  ;  the  third  was,  however, 
taken,  convicted,  and  executed  in  the  PJaza.  Whether  it 
was  the  effect  of  the  war,  or  some  other  cause,  I  cannot  pre- 
tend to  say,  but  although  the  general  rumour  was  abroad 
that  the  convict  was  Cisneros  himself,  there  were  not  fifty 
persons  besides  the  public  guard  present  at  the  execution. 

There  are  several  other  open  areas  denominated  plazas  in 
different  parts  of  the  city,  but  none  of  them  uniform  squares, 
nor  paved  like  the  Plaza  Mayor.  That  of  Candelaria,  before 
referred  to,  exhibited  nothing  so  remarkable  as  the  ruins  of  its 
Church,  separated  from  the  street  by  a  fantastic  Gothic  rail- 
ing, some  of  the  grotesque  pillars  of  which  yet  remain,  the 
Church  itself  a  vast  mass  of  earth  ;  the  area  was  never  paved. 

Neither  was  that  of  the  plaza  of  St.  Paul,  the  church  of  which 
stands  without  any  symmetrical  relation  to  the  plaza  on  the 
S.  E.  angle,  which  is  passed  in  the  route  to  Valencia.  The 
exterior  of  the  church  excites  no  curiosity  ;  but  a  fine  foun- 
tain, nearly  in  the  centre  of  this  irregular  space,  is.  handsome, 
and  when  we  passed  it  on  our  journey,  was  surrounded  by 
a  very  considerable  croud  of  females,  who  I  remarked  were 
uniformly  round  and  full,  clean  in  their  persons,  and  their 
garments  brilliant  as  snow. 

The  Plaza  of  St.  Hyacinth,  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Dominican  monastery,  is  not  spacious,  but  it  is  neat,  and  is 
^  thoroughfare. 


t6  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  Plaza  La  Trinidad  is  devoid  of  symmetry,  and  mere- 
ly an  open  space. 

The  Plaza  of  St.  Lazarus  is  a  neat  enclosure  before 
the  church  or  chapel  of  that  name  :  but  appears  to  be  rather 
in  a  suburb  than  part  of  the  city. 

The  Plaza  of  Pastora  exists  only  in  melancholy  tradition, 
and  is  designated  by  heaps  of  ruins,  which  appear  indistin- 
guishable from  the  ample  barracks,  that  ibrmerly  stood  ad- 
jacent, and  fell  in  the  common  ruin  of  the  earthquake  of 
1812.  These  ruins  strike  the  eye  on  entering  the  city  from 
the  Sierra  Avila,  and,  unless  prepared  by  some  previous  in- 
formation, would  not  excite  emotion  ;  as  where  cultivation 
does  not  appear,  or  forests,  the  appearance  of  these  ruins  is 
that  of  the  arid  mountain  range,  which  looks  as  if  it  just 
issued  from  the  hand  of  nature  in  a  rude  unfinished  state, 
calling  upon  man  to  go  to  work  upon  the  raw  materia/. 

The  Plaza  of  St.  John  is  rather  an  irregular  long-sided 
triangle  than  a  square.  The  barracks  here  are  spacious, 
and  it  is  the  depot  for  the  discipline  of  new  levies  and 
mounted  militia. 

The  college,  which  was  founded  only  in  1778,  a  year 
memorable  for  its  influence  on  the  revolution  that  is  now 
accomplished,  bears  the  appearance  of  a  structure  of  die 
eleventh  or  twelfth  century.  It  was  erected  into  an  univer- 
sity  in  1792.  On  entering  from  the  street,  there  is  a  de- 
scent of  one  step  ;  perhaps  the  graduation  of  the  street  has 
been  much  later  than  the  structure.  It  stands  on  the  south  side 
of  the  street  which  forms  the  south  face  of  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
The  lower  apartments  are  gloomy — and  much  more  croud- 
cd  than  the  buildings  of  Caracas  generally.  The  usual  broad 
staircase  of  two  flights  leads  to  the  upper  apartments,  which  are 
more  spacious  and  airy.  The  students  at  this  time  were  about 
one  hundred,  and  distinguished  by  a  whimsical  and  certainly 
useless  costume.  It  was  a  kind  of  pale  purple  or  hyacinth- 
coloured  cassock,  with  a  scalloped  cap  of  the  same  colour, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  77 

of  the  shape  of  the  cap  of  the  priests  of  the  Greek  church, 
and  a  sort  of  stole  of  crimson  gave  it  a  fantastic  appearance. 
The  youths  disappeared,  as  we  were  conducted  by  an  amia- 
ble and  intelligent  secular  clergyman,  one  of  the  professors, 
into  the  library.  I  examined  the  backs  of  many  ponderous 
folios  and  quartos,  where  the  fathers  of  the  Church,  and  the 
canonists — Johannes  Scotus  Erigena,  and  Thomas  Aquinas, 
yet  hold  their  long-neglected  places ;  for  the  books  appear- 
ed to  be  very  quiet,  clean,  and  undisturbed ;  yet  many  men 
of  very  great  eminence  and  virtue  have  passed  through  the 
forms  of  this  university ;  J.  G.  Roscio,  the  Toros,  the  To- 
vars,  the  Montillas,  Bolivars,  Guals,  Palacios,  Salazar,  and 
many  others  who  have  been  founders,  martyrs,  or  victors  in 
the  cause  of  freedom,  had  their  education  there,  notwith- 
standing the  inauspicious  obscurity  of  the  lore  which  encum- 
bers the  shelves.  I  could  discover  nothing  modern  in  the 
library,  but  a  map  of  the  world,  suspended  so  high,  as  to 
defy  even  the  aid  of  spectacles  ;  one  of  the  ladies  discovered 
that  it  was  turned  upside  down,  and  noticed  it  with  the  ob- 
servation, that  like  every  thing  it  had  undergone  a  rev- 
olution— which  produced  a  sensation  of  pleasure  in  our 
amiable  conductor — It  was  probably  a  prank  of  some  stu- 
dent. 

I  experienced  much  more  pleasure  when  we  were  con- 
ducted to  the  mathematical  hall,  where  we  found  the  geome- 
trical diagrams  fresh  upon  the  board.  Over  the  professor's 
chair  I  perceived  a  portrait  in  the  costume  not  of  Spain,  but 
of  England,  more  than  a  century  ago,  and  leamed  that  it  was  a 
portrait  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  an  incident  very  significant  of  the 
decline  of  prejudice  under  the  influence  of  liberty,  and  a  singu- 
lar contrast  with  the  philosophy  of  Scotus,  the  Irish  logician. 
I  could  not  but  recollect  that  Newton  was  in  his  own  country 
treated  by  the  orthodox  as  an  atheist,  because  he  would  not 
consent  to  recognize  the  thirty-nine  articles;  here,  where 


78  .VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  inquisition  had  not  yet  ceased  seven  years,  the  spirit  of 
the  age  had  placed  his  portrait  where  probably  Athanasius  or 
Scotus  had  formerly  held  a  place.  It  marks  the  progress  of 
generous  sentiments  and  liberal  ideas ;  and  it  was  further 
interesting  from  the  fact,  that  the  amiable  ecclesiastic  who 
informed  me  of  the  circumstance,  appeared  to  partake  in 
the  pleasure  I  had  expressed.  I  did  not  find  the  Logic 
of  Condillac  nor  Locke  on  the  Understanding,  which  I  had 
been  told  by  General  Lavaysse  were  introduced  there.  Some 
changes  hoyvever  have  been  made  in  the  course  of  studies, 
though  they  are  still  unsuitable  to  the  knowledge  of  the  age  ; 
but  there  is  a  necessity  for  patience,  and  improvement  must 
follow  where  the  mind  and  the  press  are  free,  and  the  eccle- 
siastical as  well  as  the  military  are  subordinate  to  the  social 
laws.  I  found  Condillac,  and  numerous  other  books,  in  dif- 
ferent private  libraries.  The  period  when  the  constituted  cor- 
tes  existed  in  Spain,  was  not  all  lost :  the  press  of  Vallado- 
lid  and  other  parts  of  Spain,  poured  forth  many  hundreds  of 
important  works  in  Spanish  ;  originals  written  for  the  revo- 
lution, and  others  translated  from  French  and  English.  I 
found  the  works  of  Baron  Holbach  on  the  toilette  of  a  charm- 
ing woman,  and  ventured  to  rally  her  on  the  subject  of  the 
work  ;  her  reply  was  as  wise  as  it  was  artless  and  ingenu- 
ous :  '*  Truth,  Sciior,  is  like  a  young  lady,  who,  if  she 
expresses  apprehension  on  her  character  being  inquired  into 
by  her  lover,  must  at  least  excite  his  curiosity,  if  not  his 
doubts."  Books  of  an  elementary  kind  are  found  in  all 
parts  of  the  country.  The  exile  of  so  many  natives  of  Spa- 
nish America  and  of  Spain,  had  cast  numbers  upon  Eng- 
land and  France,  and  the  United  States,  who,  being  gene- 
rally well  educated  and  liberal  men,  and  poor,  have  found 
sources  of  support  in  the  preparation  of  works  adapted  to  the 
circumstances  of  the  New  World.  It  is  a  commerce  that 
must  augment  in  a  tenfold  ratio  within  ten  years.     The  press 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  79 

is  not  yet  in  more  than  its  infancy,  or  about  what  it  was  in 
the  United  States  in  1764. 

I  understood  there  was  only  one  student  of  medicine  in 
the  university,  and  I  was  not  surprized  at  it,  as  a  variety  of 
circumstances  concur  in  disparaging  the  medical  profession. 
The  prejudices  which  have  been  generated  by  the  satire  justly 
cast  upon  the  state  of  quackery  in  Spain,  were  naturally  trans- 
ferred where  the  language  and  practice  were  the  same  :  the  cli- 
mate throughout  is  adverse  to  diseases  ;  many  are  unknown  ; 
and  the  calentura  in  the  plains,  the  goitre  in  a  long  range  of 
the  interior,  and  some  occurrences  of  leprosy  in  particular 
parts  of  Colombia,  form,  with  the  exception  of  some  diseases 
produced  by  irregularities,  the  only  objects  of  medical  ne- 
cessity. The  medical  class  do  not  therefore  obtain,  be- 
cause there  is  not  so  much  need  of  them,  the  same  rewards 
as  in  countries  where  they  are  more  necessary.  The  opi- 
nions of  a  great  mass  of  the  population  correspond  with  that 
which  the  amusing  novelist  has  given  of  Dr.  Sangrado.  In 
some  inland  places  the  medical  fee  was  formerly  una  real, 
literaMy  the  eighth  of  a  dollar ;  I  have  not  any  where  heard 
of  more  than  four  reals^  or  half  a  dollar  a  visit.  I  have  met 
some  Europeans  of  the  best  medical  education,  but  none  out 
of  the  army,  and  I  found  only  two  natives  of  Colorabia, 
one  of  whom  found,  as  he  good-humouredly  said,  that 
there  was  not  sickness  enough  in  Caracas  to  live  upon,  and 
it  became  necessary  that  he  should  turn  coffee- planter,  in 
which  he  prospered  and  dispensed  the  benefits  of  his  edu- 
cation, though  not  so  profitably,  with  much  credit  and  satis- 
faction.    The  other  I  shall  notice  when  we  reach  Tucuyo. 

The  university  of  Caracas,  nevertheless,  as  I  have  said  be- 
fore, has  had  the  honour  of  many  great  names  among  its  stu- 
dents. I  have  mentioned  only  a  few,  whose  reputation  is  in- 
separable from  the  revolution  ;  who,  having  handled  the  tools 
of  science  at  the  university,  employed  them  to  the  benefit  of 
their  country  and  species.     The  great  evil  and  obstruction  of 


80  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

science,  in  this  university,  is,  that  instruction  is  confined 
wholly  to  ecclesiastics  ;  who,  affecting  more  concern  for  the 
affairs  of  another  world,  in  order  to  hold  men  in  mystical 
thraldom,  endeavour  to  unfit  them  or  to  disengage  them  from 
this  world,  in  which  it  has  been  the  wise  purpose  of  the  Al- 
mighty to  place  men.  The  clergy  of  Colombia  are  very  te- 
nacious of  their  authority,  and  have  in  fact  made  education  a 
monopoly.  Yet  the  revolution  proves  that  there  is  a  conviction 
adverse  to  these  exclusive  pretensions,  and  that  the  discus- 
sion of  dogmas  and  mysteries  occupies  more  time  and  labour 
than  is  necessary  or  reasonable.  The  Jesuits  every  where 
aimed  at  this  monopoly,  or  a  predominance  which  would  en- 
able them  to  govern  society,  by  gaining  the  direction  of  the 
public  seminaries,  the  formation  of  the  female  mind,  and  the 
preference  as  private  teachers ;  and  their  success  has  been 
only  inferior  to  that  of  the  Bramins.  But  surely  this  is  not 
peculiar  to  Caracas  or  Colombia.  And,  after  all,  is  not  the 
same  course  pursued,  with  and  without  avowal,  by  those 
who  have  withdrawn  from  the  Romish  church,  and  pro- 
fessed to  discard  its  practices  ?  Do  not  the  ecclesiastics  of 
every  sect  and  theory  seek  the  same  influence  over  the  hu- 
man mind,  through  education  ?  The  Jesuits,  as  well  as  the 
Bramins,  knew  that  men  must  be  led  away  from  the  exercise 
of  their  reason,  or  they  could  not  be  enslaved ;  and  every 
day's  experience  shows  that  the  same  disposition  to  hold  do- 
minion over  the  mind  by  means  of  a  partial  education,  pre- 
vails among  all  sects  and  all  religions. 

Those  who  have  succeeded  or  superseded  the  Jesuits, 
have  pursued,  though  with  less  beneficial  effect,  the  same 
system.  The  Dominicans  and  Franciscans  were  hostile  to 
the  Jesuits,  as  they  have  been  hostile  to  each  other ;  as  much 
so  as  the  reformed  churches  have  been  hostile  to  them  all. 
An  archbishop  of  New  Granada  (Caballero)  once  exiled  the 
Dominicans  to  Panama ;  they  were  afterwards  restored,  and 
now  abound  in  rich  possessions.     The  Franciscans  were  at 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  81 

a  certain  time  charged  with  teaching  the  doctrines  called 
Calvinistic,  and  were  held  in  abhorrence  by  the  Dominicans. 
These  two  orders  are  now  great  admirers  of  the  revoluuon, 
but  look  to  be  exclusively  instructors,  that  they  may  render 
the  revolution  itself  subservient  to  them ;  while  the  Capu- 
chins, who  calculated  upon  the  royal  triumph,  have  been  ex- 
pelled for  their  treachery,  by  a  decree  of  14th  September,  1819, 
and  their  convents  appropriated  to  public  education — where 
ecclesiastics  still  continue  to  be  the  teachers  of  the  children 
of  those  who  have  fallen  in  defence  of  freedom  ! 

Under  the  Spanish  regime,  the  opulence  and  power  of  the 
ecclesiastics  were  as  inordinate  as  in  Europe  in  the  fourteenth 
and  fifteenth  centuries.  The  principles  of  the  faith  they 
professed  to  teach,  are  wholly  incompatible  with  the  riches 
they  have  accumulated,  and  the  luxury  in  which  they  live. 
It  was  a  striking  feature  of  the  despotism,  that  it  upheld 
those  establishments,  and  those  multitudes  of  consuming, 
or  destroying,  and  non-productive  drones  ;  but  the  mo- 
tives are  obvious :  they  were  not  to  be  feared  as  enemies, 
and  as  agents  they  accomplished  the  purposes  of  the  de- 
basement and  subjection  of  the  people,  so  long  as  the 
people  could  be  kept  in  ignorance,  more  effectually  than 
by  an  army  of  bayonets ;  and,  being  divided  into  orders, 
they  were,  when  refractory,  more  easily  managed.  Besides 
the  orders  of  monks,  who  were  always  wrangling  among 
themselves,  the  secular  clergy  were  obnoxious  to  both.  The 
Dominicans  disputed  with  the  Franciscans,  and  both  with 
the  seculars  ;  other  regular  orders  took  their  sides  ;  and  while 
they  preached  "  peace  on  earth  and  good  will  to  men,'* 
they  made  a  trade  of  spiritual  (as  it  was  called)  warfare,  and 
traded  in  those  earthly  riches  which  they  professed  to  abjure. 
The  hatred  of  the  Moslem  Soonies  and  Sheas  was  not  more 
vehement  than  that  of  these  religious  orders  ;  who  professed 
to  be  the  interpreters  of  heaven,  the  advocates  and  exemplars 
of  men,  while  they  deliberately  and  systematically  sought  to 

11 


•-  -3- 


82  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

deprive  men  of  the  use  of  those  faculties  bestowed  by  the 
Creator,  and,  by  binding  them  in  the  fetters  of  ignorance,  to 
convert  them  into  a  condition  inferior  to  brute  beasts.  The 
revolution  has  had  a  wonderful  effect  in  restoring  to  sobriety 
those  perverted  men,  and  perverted  institutions,  but  it  is  by  i 
what  they  were,  we  learn  to  appreciate  the  benefit  which  hu-l 
man  nature  derives  from  the  revolution.  They  were  success- j 
ful  for  three  centuries  in  subjecting  those  whom  they  had 
restrained  from  the  cultivation  of  their  intellects  ;  they  ex- 
tracted alike  from  the  acquirements  of  the  very  poorest,  and 
the  most  opulent,  contributions  so  rich  and  inordinate,  that 
in  every  part  of  South  America  their  establishments,  whether 
churches  for  worship,  or  monasteries  for  seclusion  and  indo- 
lence, surpass  all  others  in  magnitude,  expence  of  erection, 
interior  embeUishmcnt,  even  to  extravagance,  alike  without 
taste  to  gratify  the  understanding,  and  without  the  humility, 
or  simplicity,  or  disinterestedness,  taught  by  their  master. 

I  believe  it  was  De  Pons  who  observed  that,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Contaduria  (office  of  accounts),  the  Government 
had  not  a  house  of  its  own  in  Caracas ;  and  houses  were 
rented  for  all  other  public  services. 

This  fact  is  very  striking  when  compared  with  the  eccle- 
siastical establishments,  of  which  Caracas  has  within  its  ju- 
risdiction five  parishes,  with  structures  of  different  degrees 
of  magnitude  and  revenues.  The  archbishop  of  Caracas,  un- 
der the  royal  government,  had  a  revenue  of  60,000  dollars 
a  year.  The  parishes  ofthe  city  are  those  of  the  Cathedral,  St, 
Paul,  St.  Rosalig,  Alta  Gracia,  and  La  Candelaria,  besides 
the  churches  of  other  fraternities  of  various  denominations  ; 
the  order  of  Predicadores  of  St.  Philip  Neri ;  the  chapels  of 
St.  Maurice,  the  Trinity,  and  La  Divina  Pastora,  which,  not 
being  parishes,  belong  neither  to  convents  nor  hospitals. 

There  were  several  monasteries  for  men  of  the  Domini- 
cans, Franciscans,  and  order  of  Merced  ;  the'-^priests  of  the 
oratory  of  St.  Philip  Neri  also  have  a  church.    There  were 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  83 

two  nunneries,  that  of  the  Blessed  Conception,  and  that  of 
Mount  Carmel,  and  a  few  females  are  still  entombed  within 
those  living  graves ;  they  are,  however,  old  ;  and,  among  the 
blessings  of  the  revolution,  is  the  abrogation  of  those  inhuman 
institutions  which  enabled  unnatural  parents  to  sacrifice  their 
younger  females  to  the  vanity  which  would  aggrandize  one 
child  at  the  expence  of  nature,  and  the  justice  due  to  the  rest. 
Females  cannot  no(v  be  compelled  to  disregard  the  laws  of  na- 
ture, nor  the  obligations  of  social  duty,  before  a  given  age, 
and  I  had  on  a  particular  occasion  an  opportunity  to  hear 
from  the  innocent  lips  of  a  young  lady,  an  acknowledgment, 
in  the  fulness  and  candour  of  her  heart,  that,  although  she 
had  once  thought  she  must  finish  her  days  in  one  of 
those  gloomy  cloisters,  in  exclusion  from  the  world,  she  was 
now  well  enough  satisfied  to  live  among  the  numerous 
good  people  whom  she  had  found  in  it ;  and  thanked  the 
revolution  for  enabling  her  so  to  do. 

An  association  more  beneficent  is  a  voluntary  association 
of  young  ladies,  of  the  most  opulent  families  of  Caracas, 
who  are  not  tired  of  the  world,  and  make  it  a  duty  to  pro- 
mote the  good  of  others.  They  make  no  religious  vows,  but 
devote  themselves  to  the  education  of  young  females,  and 
other  charities.  It  must  be  obvious,  that  from  the  very 
contracted  education  which  females  have  been  hitherto  per- 
mitted to  receive,  the  education  they  promote  must  be 
also  limited,  and  besides  that  the  monks,  like  the  priests  of 
all  religions,  take  care  to  address  themselves  to  those  edu- 
candas,  because  they  knew  how  much  the  sex  holds  power 
over  human  concerns,  and  all  the  interests  of  society. 

The  Cathedral  of  Caracas  is  a  stone  building,  and,  with 
one  third  of  its  steeple,  also  of  stone,  remams  uninjured  by 
the  earthquake ;  its  appearance  is  by  no  means  striking  out- 
side ;  but  within,  looking  towards  the  altar  in  the  east,  it  is 
a  very  respectable,  and  not  so  unmeaningly  glittering  as  other 
churches.  It  is  said  to  be  250  feet  in  length,  east  and  west, 


84  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

and  appears  to  be  about  eighty  broad  in  the  outer  extremity. 

It  is  divided  into  two  aisles  on  each  side  ol  the  nave,  by 
four  rows  of  columns  of  stone  ;  six  in  each  row  :  the  nave  be- 
ing as  broad  as  two  of  the  aisles  on  either  side,  the  elevation 
of  the  side  walls  may  be  about  thirty -six  feet.  I  measured 
nothing,  and  if  there  be  any  error,  it  must  be  attribtited  to 
the  inexactness  of  my  eye  or  judgment.  The  roof  is  well 
constructed  ;  and  the  light,  though  not  glaring,  is  sufficient 
for  a  service  where  candles  are  constantly  burning.  The  ex- 
ternal light,  however,  is  sufficient  to  affiDrd  a  distinct  view 
of  some  good  and  some  ordinary  paintings,  which  are  nei- 
ther too  man)  for  good  taste,  nor  for  the  purposes  of  their 
disposition.  They  are  distributed  and  placed  with  judg- 
ment ;  and  there  are  among  them  some  superior  to  :.ny  I 
have  seen  in  any  other  part  of  Colombia.  The  great  altar 
stands  at  the  east  end  of  the  nave,  as  the  altars  in  all  Euro- 
pean churches  do  ;  though  I  noticed  several  churches  in  Co- 
lombia and  elsewhere,  which  deviate  from  this  primitive 
principle,  which  would  have  been  a  fatal  heresy  in  the  fif- 
teenth century.  The  decoration  of  the  altar  is  not  so  taudry 
as  in  other  churches,  though  some  travellers  appear  to  consi- 
der this  as  a  fault,  which  to  me  appears  judicious.  There 
are  in  the  aisles  fourteen  altars,  at  which  service  is  perform- 
ed at  particular  times. 

The  high  mass,  at  which  I  attended,  was  celebrated  with 
the  usual  pomp  and  magnificence  of  the  Catholic  ritual  on 
such  occasions ;  the  music,  which  in  every  department  of 
Colombia  is  interesting  from  its  excellence,  was  here  very 
imposing,  and  would  be  perfectly  impressive,  were  not  the 
greater  part  of  the  west  end  of  the  nave  occupied  by  a 
cumbrous,  gloomy,  and  uncouth  choir,  which  concealed 
the  choristers,  and  broke  the  vibration  which  gives  to  church 
music  a  great  part  of  its  finest  effect ;  besides,  those  who 
shared  in  the  service  on  the  floor,  had,  from  Ihe  elevation  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  85 

the  choir,  no  opportunity  to  join  in  that  part  of  the  service, 
which  it  is  the  practice  in  other  Catholic  countries  to  do. 

The  hierarchy  of  the  church  in  Colombia,  is  at  present 
unsettled  to  a  certain  extent.  There  are  many  sees  vacant. 
That  of  Caracas  is  vacant  through  the  adherence  of  the 
archbishop  to  the  royal  cause,  his  retirement  to  Spain,  and 
his  subsequent  appointment  to  a  Spanish  see.  The  princi- 
ples are,  however,  determined  by  the  republic,  and  the  con- 
cordat, to  which  alone  the  republic  will  subscribe,  is  that 
which  existed  between  the  Papal  see  and  Spain.  No  bishop, 
or  archbishop,  or  even  a  curate,  could  be  appointed  by  the 
pontiff,  but  upon  the  nomination  or  presentation  of  the 
monarch ;  which  the  papal  authority  merely  ratified ;  nay, 
the  council  of  the  Indies  must  have  approved  before  the 
nomination.  The  republic  determines,  by  a  pursuit  of  the 
rule,  barely  transferring  to  the  present  sovereign  what  was 
exercised  by  the  former.  The  Spanish  court  is  opposed  to 
a  concordat,  and  obstructs  by  intrigue  at  Rome  the  conclu- 
sion of  an  accommodation  ;  and  it  renders  an  effective  ser- 
vice to  the  republic,  that  it  should  be  so  protracted,  as  every 
day's  experience  proves  it  to  be  superfluous  and  unnecessa- 
ry ;  as  it  conduces,  in  the  early  operations  of  the  new  insti- 
tutions, to  still  the  agitations  which  the  clerical  order  can 
make,  from  the  number  of  aspirants  who  look  up  for  those 
church  livings. 

The  papal  bulls,  which  bestowed  the  new  world  on  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella,  had  lost  some  of  their  ostensible  sancti- 
ty ;  the  revolution  totally  destroyed  it.  If  the  pope  should 
affect  to  force  or  disregard  the  republic,  the  effect  may  be 
the  dereliction  of  all  European  ecclesiastic  connexion,  and 
the  constitution  of  a  Patriarchate,  independent  only  in  doc- 
trine of  the  European  pontiff.  The  ecclesiastics  no  longer 
exercise  that  pragmatic  power  which  gave  them  a  jurisdic- 
tion, coercive  or  penal,  over  individuals.  They  are  them- 
selves amenable  to  the  ordinary  tribunals,  unless  in  cases 


86  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

appertaining  to  their  ecclesiastical  establishments.  Thus,  as 
a  decent  respect  for  religious  opinions  is  not  irreconcilable 
with  social  rights,  the  clerical  order  having  voluntarily  as- 
sumed the  care  and  concerns  of  another  world,  possessing  all 
the  security  they  require,  and  all  the  authority  that  is  not  in- 
consistent with  the  social  state,  are  more  at  leisure  to  devote . 
themselves  to  the  future,  and  to  detach  themselves  from  the 
present.  The  whole  patronage  of  the  church,  in  Spanish 
America,  was  in  the  monarch — it  is  now  in  the  sovereign 
people.  The  church  dignitaries  were  bound  to  render  an- 
nual accounts  to  the  monarch ;  and  it  was  through  the 
church  returns  the  council  of  the  Indies  obtained  the 
best  statements  of  the  population  ;  although  there  were  not 
wanting  instances  in  which  those  returns  were  much  below 
the  real  number :  the  bishop  might  apprehend  that  the  souls 
(contributors)  wQuld  be  deemed  too  many  ;  the  same  im- 
pression might  influence  the  curates ;  so  that,  by  suppres- 
sion in  both  cases  for  the  purpose  of  concealing  emolument, 
the  census  always  appeared  less  than  the  real  number. 

The  right  of  ecclesiastical  patronage,  in  the  Spanish  mon- 
arch, was  recognised  in  1508,  by  Pope  Julius  II.  The  de- 
tail of  the  ecclesiastical  affairs  will  be  touched  on  more  at 
large  in  a  subsequent  chapter. 


87 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Religious  ceremonial  processions — some  anecdotes  concerning — "do in  Komeas 
they  do  in  Rome." — Ambulatory  beggings--and  chanting  in  the  streets. — Thea- 
tre— the  Intendant  a  spectator — the  character  of  the  spectacle — long  drama- 
tic  exhibition. — Country  round  Caracas — visit  a  Hacienda  of  Gen.  Clemente  re- 
st'^red  after  desolation  by  the  Spaniards — lanes  of  orange  trees — sugar-fields — 
populous  villages — town  illuminated  as  we  returned — name  day  of  the  LiBer- 
tador — immense  throngs  in  the  streets — gaiety — military  parades — diversity 
of  military  costumes — churches  open — high  mass — musical  celebration  and 
festive  odes  on  the  Libertador — tears  and  remembrances  at  this  festivity — the 
scene  of  Spanish  butcheries — splendid  ball  at  night. 

Strangers,  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  institu- 
tions, forms,  and  customs  of  the  Catholic  church,  as  they 
are  maintained  in  countries  entirely  or  predominantly 
catholic,  are  apt  to  treat  the  ceremonials  which  are  occasion- 
ally exhibited  in  the  public  streets,  with  levity,  or  an  indis- 
creet disrespect.  Education  no  doubt  has  its  share  in  the 
emotion  which  is  thus  produced,  especially  in  those  of  the 
reformed  sects,  whose  discipline  and  doctrine  are  most  re- 
pugnant to  the  mother  church.  The  ceremonial  usages  of 
the  catholics  in  the  United  States  and  in  England,  are  con- 
fined to  the  service  within  the  bounds  of  their  churches,  and 
in  fact  there  is  less  pageantry,  for  such  it  is,  and  less  of  the 
display  which  appertains  to  the  greater  festivals,  such  as 
Christmas,  Passion  week,  Easter,  and  those  of  Corpus 
Christi,  and  the  various  holidays  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  though  all  religions  have  an  equal  freedom  and 
exemption  from  constraint.  Persons  educated  in  the  Uni- 
ted States  therefore,  even  members  of  the  Catholic  church 
who  visit  Portugal,  Spain,  or  Italy,  are  not  prepared  for 
the  difference  which  is  so  striking,  between  the  ceremonials 
and  usages  of  the  same  church ;  and  it  is  perhaps  much 


\ 


88  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

more  so  in  the  countries  formerly  Spanish,  than  any  where 
excepting  Portugal  or  its  dependencies  in  Asia  and  Ame- 
rica, by  which  I  particularly  refer  to  Goa  and  to  Brazil  ge- 
nerally. Nor  is  this  at  all  surprizing,  when  it  is  considered 
that  all  other  institutions  and  usages,  public  and  domestic, 
have  stood  until  the  revolution  upon  exactly  the  same  un- 
changeable and  restricted  ground  as  at  the  conquest.  I  had 
not  an  opportunity,  while  at  Caracas,  to  witness  the  religious 
processions  which  take  place  there  on  certain  festivals,  but 
I  had  ample  opportunity  to  be  a  spectator  at  Bogota,  where 
the  .pomp  and  pageantry  certainly  rivalled  in  extravagance 
what  I  had  witnessed  at  Goa  many  years  before. 

There  are  some  customs  which  I  witnessed  at  Caracas, 
that  belong  to  the  narrative  of  manners  which  I  have  under- 
taken to  give.  One  of  these  is  common  to  catholic  coun- 
tries generally,  the  other  may  be,  but  it  never  before  fell  un- 
der my  observation.  Passing  along  one  of  the  public  streets, 
I  had  just  turned  a  corner,  when  I  heard  the  tinkling  of 
a  small  chamber  bell ;  my  ear  had  been  familiar  to  such 
rounds  in  the  ceremonial  of  the  mass,  and  for  a  moment  I 
forgot  that  it  is  only  in  the  morning  that  mass  is  celebrated ; 
but  my  cogitations  were  soon  terminated  by  the  appearance 
of  a  small  corps  of  clerical  men  and  assistants  in  their  cos- 
tume of  celebration  ;  a  boy  preceded  with  the  bell  I  had 
heard,  which  he  tinkled  at  intervals ;  he  was  followed  by  an 
ecclesiastic  who  carried  the  sacrament  with  the  chalice,  and 
the  usual  covering ;  he  was  attended  by  others  ;  and  a  small 
crowd  of  boys  and  females  followed.  Upon  the  approach  of 
this  procession,  all  persons,  before  passing  in  either  direc- 
tion, halted,  standing  uncovered,  generally  against  the  sides 
of  the  street — the  procession  moving  along  the  centre.  As 
the  procession  advanced,  the  passengers  uncovered  their 
heads,  some  bent  a  knee,  and  the  women,  without  excep- 
tion, knelt  wherever  they  had  stood  on  seeing  the  procession 
approach ;  and  as  it  is  a  safe  maxim,  founded  on  prudence 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  89 

as  well  as  civility,  to  conform  to  usages  which  do  no  dis- 
service, but  the  neglect  of  which  may  be  injurious,  it  is 
best  to  "  do  as  they  do  in  Rome  ;*'  it  was  the  ceremonial  of 
carrying  the  eucharist  to  a  person,  who  was  supposed  to  be 
approaching  death,  on  which  occasion  two  sacraments,  the 
euchnrist  and  extreme  unction,  are  administered.  This  cus- 
tom was  familiar  to  me,  but  not  its  publicity,  which  was 
wholly  unexpected,  though  educated  in  that  church  myself,  , 
Returning  from  a  visit,  some  time  after  night-fall,  i  heari3r^ 
the  sound  of  choral  music ;  for  a  moment  I  looked  round 
to  see  what  church  it  proceeded  from,  not  having  seen  any 
in  that  quarter  before ;  but  the  sounds  becoming  more  dis- 
tinct, I  stopt,  and  was  indeed  pleased  with  the  strength  and 
concord  of  the  chant,  in  which,  though  the  delicate  tones 
of  many  puerile  voices  were  evident,  they  were  happily  in- 
corporated in  harmony  with  a  fine  tenor.  The  males  and 
females  passing,  as  soon  as  this  source  of  symphony  became 
visible,  arranged  themselves  as  usual  on  the  sides  of  the 
streets,  in  the  centre  of  which  a  crowd,  only  distinguishable, 
as  yet,  by  the  lighted  tapers  which  they  each  carried  in  their 
hands ;  other  lights,  suspended  to  a  lofty  frame,  of  about 
seven  feet  by  four,  displayed  a  picture  transparency,  I  could 
not  distinctly  perceive  the  subject,  but  of  course  some  saint 
or  holy  personage ;  I  believe,  however,  it  was  the  Virgin, 
All  heads  were  uncovered,  but  I  saw  none  kneel ;  the  paint- 
ing was  carried  by  persons  who  sustained  it  in  an  elevated, 
but  inclining  position,  a  range  of  youths  with  tapers  ad- 
vanced in  front,  the  picture  followed,  and  then  a  priest,  in 
dark  canonicals,  with  his  stole ;  they  continued  the  chants 
till  they  came  in  front  of  the  residence  of  an  opulent  citizen, 
where  they  halted  and  chaunted  for  a  few  moments,  when 
the  door  opened ;  a  female  advanced  and  presented  some- 
thing to  the  clergyman,  and  the  procession  was  resumed ; 
and  thus  it  frequently  stopped,  and  was  visited  from  each 
house  in  the  same  way.     Passengers,  male  and  female,  also 

12 


90  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

stepped  forward  and  communicated  with  the  priest.  More 
than  one  hundred  persons  followed,  many  of  whom,  accord- 
ing to  the  ancient  practice,  united  in  the  strain  ;  as  was  also 
customary  among  the  minstrels  of  the  thirteenth  century, 
"who  sung  romances  along  the  public  streets  in  the  same 
way  ;  and  Irom  whom  the  practice  is  probably  derived. 

This  perambulation  is,  however,  a  species  of  mendicity, 
and,  as  the  churches  which  are  not  parochial  derive  all  their 
resources  from  the  voluntary  bounty  of  the  pious,  I  presume 
these  processions  have  in  view  the  solicitation  of  contribu- 
tions. The  donations  I  have  been  told  are  very  small,  ujia  real 
being  the  most  that  is  expected  ;  though  the  sex  are  said 
to  be  given  to  "  do  good  by  stealth,"  and  bestow  much 
(^  more  than  is  solicited. 

The  difference  of  education,  and  the  customs  of  countries, 
give  to  these  processions  an  air  of  novelty  ;  and,  unless  it  be 
the  interruption  of  the  streets,  and  its  frequent  recurrence, 
it  is  a  harmless  custom.  The  impressions  derived  from 
education  among  the  numerous  reformed  branches  of  the 
Christian  church,  are,  no  doubt,  adverse  to  these  pompous 
ceremonials,  and  the  use  of  pictures  and  images,  much  more 
at  the  worship  expected,  or  by  implication  exacted,  in 
uncovering  the  head  and  bending  the  knee  during  the  pass- 
ing of  the  sacrament.  Yet,  after  all,  is  there  not  as  much 
prejudice  on  the  part  of  the  offended  as  the  offenders  ?  Upon 
a  dispassionate  examination,  it  will  appear  that  the  pomp  of 
the  mother  church  is  by  no  means  greater  than  that  of  the 
.  Jewish  ceremonial,  nor  more  mysterious,  and  yet  the  He- 
brew Scriptures  are  disseminated  as  doctrinal.  There  is  an 
allegory  in  the  ceremonial  of  the  mass,  in  which  every  action 
is  emblematic  of  some  event  in  the  passion  and  death  of 
Christ ;  however  this  allegory  may  have  been  adapted  to  ages 
of  extreme  ignorance,  when  the  art  of  printing  was  not  at  hand 
to  inform  the  great  body  of  the  people,  an  allegory  of  this 
description  was  calculated  to  engage  the  senses,  and  carry, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  91 

with  the  memory  of  the  ceremonial  explained,  a  solemn  im- 
pression of  the  event  to  which  it  referred.     The  conversion 
of  ceremonial  forms  into  doctrinal  obligations,  and  the  dan- 
ger of  another  great  schism,  which  would  separate  the  intel- 
ligent from  the  uninformed,  has  prevented  any  alteration  of 
moment,  in  the  ceremonial  forms ;  and  if  the  mind  is  chained 
down  by  despotic  governments,  and  among  the  rest  by  the 
policy  of  the  church  itself,  this  pomp  becomes  a  sort  of  ne- 
cessary resort,  as  the  antidote  to  that  disorder  which  would 
arise  from  the  absence  of  a  system,  as  well  as  of  know- 
ledge.    It  is  to  be  desired,  tliat  all  Christian  sects  would 
consent,  in  all  countries,  as  they  do  in  the  United  States,  to 
worship,  without  compulsion  or  reproach,  each  in  their  own 
way.     Religion  being  a  matter  purely  individual,  no  man 
being  responsible  for  the  errors  of  another,  and  opinion  being 
itself  derived  from  the  accidental  position  of  the  individual  in 
his  first  years ;  the  charity  of  the  Christian  precept  would 
seem    to   demand,    not  merely   a  right  to   the  exercise  of 
choice,  but  mutual  forbearance  among  those  who  profess 
the  worship  of  the  same  object,  and,  in  reality,  differ  only  in 
those  forms,  or  the  pragmatic  inventions  of  mystical  or  bar- 
barous ages.     I  have  been  often  asked  as  to  the  state  of  re- 
ligion, and  the  influence  of  the  priesthood  in  Colombia,  and 
sometimes  accompanied  by  a  zealous  wish  that  missionaries 
could  be  sent  among  them  as  among  the  Indians  !  There  is 
some  contradiction  between  such  inquiries  and  wishes,  and 
a  complaint  that  is  sometimes    made  as  to    the    doctrinal 
tenet  of  the  Catholic  or  universal  unity  of  the  church,  and 
the  incidental  inference  that  no  one  can  be  saved  out  of  it. 
Unquestionably,  such  was  the  theory  of  the  Catholic  church 
as  soon  as  it  had  become  politically  potent ;  and,  in  some 
countries,  it  continues  to  be  put  forth  still.  But  is  not  this  the 
tenet  of  every   sect?    Do  not  the  sects  of  the  reformed 
churches  hold  salvation  as  belonging  to  themselves  exclu- 
sively ?  Whether  avowed  or  only  inferred,  the  flict  is  the 


9S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

same,  every  sect  must  entertain  some  such  opinion,  or  why 
form  cj  separate  sect  ?  If  the  Cathohc  be  not  entitled  to  sal- 
vation according  to  any  one  or  more  opinions  of  sects,  is  not 
that  the  very  subject  of  accusation  ?  It  is  lamentable  that 
mankind  should  be  thus  held  as  perpetual  adversaries,  and 
the  doctrine  of  peace  and  good  will  be  made  the  foundation 
for  discord  !  There  could  be  no  difficulty  in  tracing  the  evil 
to  the  cause  of  its  duration — but  it  might  be  deemed  in- 
vidious— 

For  modes  of  faith  let  graceless  zealots  fight. 
His  can't  be  wrong,  whose  life  is  in  the  right. 

I  was  led  to  this  digression  without  premeditation,  and  it 
is  not  worth  while  to  erase  it,  by  the  manner  in  which  some 
of  our  young  Americans,  whom  I  met  in  my  travels,  be- 
haved on  such  occasions,  and  which  has  caused  me  some  un- 
pleasant moments.  I  heard  one  relate  an  anecdote  of  him- 
self with  great  self-applause :  the  sacrament  passing,  as  is 
customary,  the  gentleman  would  neither  stop  nor  uncover 
his  head ;  one  of  the  procession  party  intimated  that  this  act 
of  respect  was  due,  and  added,  according  to  his  educated 
belief,  "  will  you  not  take  off  your  hat  in  the  presence  of 
God  ?"  (meaning,  according  to  tlie  doctrine  of  transubstan- 
tiation,  the  sacrament) — this  libera^  who,  had  it  been  in 
Turkey,  and  neglected  what  was  expected  of  respect  to 
the  Moslem  ceremonial,  might  have  found  his  head  in 
hands-^replied,  pointing  to  the  heavens, — '•^  Dios  ariba  P^ 
God  is  above, — and  he  exulted  not  a  little  at  the  act,  be- 
cause he  knew  he  was  perfectly  secure. 

On  another  occasion,  at  one  of  those  ambulatory  beg- 
gings, a  young  American  followed  the  procession,  where 
there  was  no  head  covered  but  his  own ;  the  militia  had 
been  mustered  that  day,  and  one  of  those  who  had  fallen  in 
with  the  procession  had  his  firelock ;  the  American  stranger 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  98 

was  requested  either  to  take  off  his  hat  or  retire  ;  like  Goldl- 
smith's  centinel,  he  conceived  his  religion  in  danger,  and 
his  dignity  called  upon  to  refuse ;  the  militia- man  raised 
his  firelock  and  fired  it  in  the  young  man's  face ;  to  be 
sure  the  loadmg  was  only  powder  ;  but  thanks  to  the  revo- 
lution, which  has  caused  respect  to  be  paid  to  strangers, 
and  who  surely  owe  respect  to  decorum  at  least  in  return, 
the  matter  there  ended ;  had  it  been  before  the  revolution, 
the  ball  might  have  been  used  with  impunity.  And,  after 
all,  was  it  worth  while,  for  the  mere  performance  of  an  act 
of  civility,  which  would  be  paid  to  any  decent-looking  man 
or  woman  in  the  public  street,  to  induce  such  a  reproof?—- 
in  fact  such  an  insult — for  the  militia-man  was  not  insensi- 
ble that  such  an  act  as  his  must  be  seriously  felt — and  un- 
doubtedly, if  the  issue  be  compared  with  the  cause  that  pro- 
duced it,  a  person  of  good  sense  would  prefer  to  avoid  an 
insult  so  palpable,  by  recollecting  that  he  was  disregarding 
the  institutions  of  a  whole  people,  whose  hospitality  he  every 
day  experienced,  and  from  whose  laws  he  expected  protec- 
tion. A  man  of  good  sense  would  say  *'  I  am  but  a  stran- 
ger, the  laws  have  declared  that  a  given  religion  shall  be 
that  of  the  state ;  that  no  man  shall  be  molested  for  his 
opinions ;  that  no  man  must  disparage  the  established  reli- 
gion ;  it  would  be  absurd  for  me  to  set  my  private  educated 
opinion,  acquired  in  a  foreign  land,  against  the  acquired 
contrary  opinion  in  this  land,  where  I  am  a  stranger ;  I 
will  not  incur  the  risk  of  martyrdom  for  the  mere  gratifica- 
tion of  setting  their  customs  at  defiance  ;  an  act  of  civil  re- 
spect is  not  an  abandonment  of  the  judgment,  or  the  right 
of  freely  thinking,  but  an  act  of  decorum  which  even  the 
prejudices  of  men  will  not  forbid,  where  evil  cannot  arise 
out  of  it."  I  have  seen  a  worthy  man  at  Goa,  committed 
to  the  prison  of  the  inquisition,  and  very  grossly  abused,  for 
an  unintentional  act  under  similar  circumstances.  In  Co- 
lombia, the  government  itself  is  bound  to  respect  the  edu- 


91$  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

cated  habits  derived  from  ages,  by  forbidding  all  external 
religious  transactions  that  might  produce  contention  or  vio- 
lence ;  and  it  is  not  in  such  a  case  for  a  stranger  to  say  this 
whole  nation  is  wrong,  and  I  will  set  myself  up  to  dis- 
parage it ;  he  may  consider  these  processions  idolatrous  ;  they 
believe  them  holy — the  laws  say  they  shall  not  be  treated 
with  contempt — a  man,  who  is  desirous  of  martyrdom,  may 
find  opportunities  enough  to  gratify  his  penchant ;  but  the 
preferable  course  for  a  man  of  sense,  if  he  cannot  conform 
to  the  decorum  of  society,  is  not  to  enter  a  country  where 
his  delicacy  may  be  shocked  by  the  zeal  of  a  fanatic,  or  the 
significant  hint  of  a  militia-man. 

Having  some  curiosity  to  see  the  theatre  which  Hum- 
boldt so  correctly  describes,  I  chose  to  go  alone,  and  found 
admission  for  una  real ;  and,  hearing  that  the  pit  was  an 
open  area,  I  made  my  way  up  stairs,  and  found  myself  in  a 
box,  the  door  of  which  had  been  politely  opened  for  me. 
My  position  was  in  the  transverse  line  of  boxes  in  front  and 
parallel  with  the  stage.  Ranges  of  boxes,  all  filled  with  com- 
pany, principally  ladies,  occupied  both  sides  of  the  parallelo- 
gram ;  the  ground-floor,  literally  the  ground,  was  the  pit,  and 
the  ceiling,  the  blue  serene  spangled  vault  of  heaven.  The 
stagt  was  about  twenty -lour  or  twenty -five  feet  broad  in  front, 
flanked  by  what  the  players  call  wings,  forming  two  sides  of 
a  square.  The  front  scene,  by  the  falling  of  which  the  acts 
were  discriminated,  was  a  sort  of  pastoral  picture,  such  as  a 
century  ago  were  prefixed  by  sentimental  writers  to  works  of 
the  imagination ;  and  when  it  drew  up,  displayed  such 
oblique  wings  as  are  found  in  the  theatres  of  itinerants,  ex- 
hibiting columns  or  trees  in  bold  daubing  upon  stout  pa- 
per. The  flat  or  back  scenes,  diminished  according  to  the 
stage  laws  of  perspective,  were  changed  as  the  subject  called 
for  a  camp,  the  chamber  of  a  palace,  a  forest,  or  a  shipwreck, 
all  of  which  appeared  in  dramatic  progression. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  95 

My  progress  in  the  language  enabled  me  to  catch  only  a 
part  of  the  dialogue  and  the  theme,  but  I  found  it  had  a  plot, 
in  which  Achilles  was  discovered  in  petticoats,  and  Patro- 
clus  and  Hector,  besides  some  other  Greeks  and  Trojans, 
composed  the  dramatis  person  as ;  among  whom  also  were 
Andromache  and  Briseis,  and,  though  last  not  least,  the 
frequent  associate  of  Spanish  dramas,  a  buffoon,  a  sort  of 
Scapin^  who  made  mirth  serious  and  melancholy  laughable : 
as  for  example,  during  the  dire  conflict  of  arms,  for  what  I 
know  between  Hector  and  somebody  from  Greece ;  this 
Spanish  clown  displayed,  by  outspread  fingers,  staring  eyes, 
and  trembling  action,  all  the  contortions  of  clownish  fear — 
and  when  the  heroes,  like  the  Kilkenny  cats,  disappeared, 
the  affrighted  clown  exclaimed  "  Jesu  Christo  /"  It  would 
be  trifling  to  dwell  upon  the  anachronism;  but  there  was 
another,  the  "  airy  sea"  in  the  back  ground,  at  first  calm  as 
the  lake  of  Valencia,  was  on  a  sudden  disturbed,  and  a  square 
rigged  vessel  appeared — it  is  wrecked  with  some  striking 
heroine,  whom  the  Scapin,  with  great  gravity,  helped  to  re- 
lieve, while  the  gallant  Menelaus,  or  somebody  else,  stood 
on  the  sea-shore,  admiring  the  roses  in  his  own  sandals. 
The  clown  was,  nevertheless,  amusing — his  powers  of  face 
much  preferable  to  the  quality  of  his  jokes,  though  so 
much  out  of  place  and  time;  and,  though  he  imitated 
nature  most  abominably,  in  an  appropriate  drama  he 
would  have  merited  at  least  as  much  applause  as  he  got; 
which  was  more  than  Hector  or  Andromache  could  say  for 
themselves.  After  all,  the  credit  of  the  piece,  whatever  it 
may  be,  belongs  to  Spain,  from  which  this  species  of  drama, 
of  I  know  not  how  many  acts,  is  derived  ;  for  it  commen- 
ced about  six  o'clock ;  and  it  was  twelve  when  I  came 
away,  leaving  the  play  not  yet  finished. 

Soon  after  I  was  seated,  the  intendant,  General  Soublette, 
entered,  and  placed  himself  on  the  same  bench,  and  asked 
several  questions  as  to  my  opinion  of  the  drama,  which  I 
answered   without  any    reserve,  and  in  which  he  agreed. 


^6  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

This  gentleman  appeared  in  his  costume  as  a  private  citi- 
zen, and  without  guards  or  attendants,  hke  a  republican  ma- 
gistrate ;  it  gave  me  pleasure  to  see  it ;  and  the  occasion 
enabled  me  to  perceive,  in  the  amenity  and  cordial  manner 
with  which  he  recognized  persons  of  different  conditions, 
how  suitably  he  filled  his  station.  The  theatre  was  perfect- 
ly orderly,  though  all  parts  were  full ;  cheerfulness  and  gaie- 
ty  were  conspicuous  in  the  boxes,  and  between  the  acts,  as 
elsewhere,  they  chatted  in  tones  not  very  much  depressed, 
something  louder  than  a  whisper — yet  perfectly  agreeable, 
with  their  friends  in  adjacent  boxes.  The  boxes  here,  as  in 
Spain,  are  like  pews  in  our  churches,  private  property,  and 
the  owner  with  the  key  transfers  the  right  of  admission. 

The  country  around  Caracas,  from  the  distance,  presents 
an  unbroken  appearance  of  prosperous  cultivation  ;  and,  un- 
less where  the  casualties  of  the  revolution  have  by  the  flight 
of  the  former  owners  suffered  them  to  go  to  decay,  the  reali- 
ty is  as  prosperous  as  the  appearance.  We  had  numerous 
parties  in  different  directions  of  the  valley,  which  it  would 
be  tedious  to  particularize,  two  or  three  will  be  selected  as 
sufficiently  characteristic.  As  there  are  no  wheel  carriages, 
the  ladies  ride,  and  with  ease  and  self-command.  General 
Clemente  being  absent,  his  interesting  wife  and  daughter 
made  up  a  party  of  both  sexes,  about  twenty  in  number. 
Their  Hacienda,  or  coffee  plantation,  lies  in  the  valley  of 
Chacao,  about  three  miles  and  a  half  east  of  the  city  ;  it  had 
suffered  from  the  violence  of  the  Spaniards,  while  they  were 
in  possession  of  Caracas,  as  all  property  of  the  patriots  did  ;  but 
the  activity  and  intelligence  of  Senora  Clemente  had  already 
gone  so  far  in  its  restoration,  that  when  we  arrived  the  do- 
mestics were  already  occupied  in  the  preparation  of  a  hand- 
some crop  of  coffee,  for  the  process  of  shelling  by  the  mill. 
She  had  replaced  the  houses  demolished  by  the  Spaniards ; 
but  not  so  lofty,  or  so  large ;  she  erected  what  in  Bengal 
would  be  called  a  spacious  bungalow,  but  in  familiar  Ian- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  97 

guage  a  spacious  thatched  house,  with  all  the  accommoda- 
tions required  for  convenience  and  for  comfort ;  and  here 
we  had  a  table  already  laid  out  with  abundant  wines,  cakes, 
never  omitting  the  pride  of  the  Caracas  housewives,  a  vari- 
ety of  the  finest  sweetmeats  ;  and,  as  it  was  a  day  to  take  air, 
and  to  see  as  well  as  converse,  we  perambulated  the  ave- 
nues of  the  coffee  trees,  saw  those  which  had  escaped  ruffian 
outrage,  and  the  new  and  vigorous  plants  in  full  fruitage, 
which  had  rq^laced  those  that  were  destroyed ;  we  saw  the 
ditches,  vvhidi  deliberate  vengeance  had  dug  to  draw  off  the 
virgin  stream,  without  which  the  plant  perishes,  and  where 
it  was  restored  and  improved,  so  as  to  diffuse  its  healthful 
rivulets  over  a  more  extended  surface,  with  the  enlargement 
of  the  plantation.  The  valley  in  the  rear,  or  south-east  of 
the  Hacienda,  is  more  than  100  feet  lower  than  the  planta- 
tion, and  the  sugsr  cane  was  rearing  its  golden  stems  in  pa- 
rallel lines,  and  the  manufacture  was  already  in  progress 
of  drying,  cleaning,  and  shelling.  The  store  houses  and  of- 
fices, which  cannot  be  too  airy  or  commodious  for  the  skil- 
ful preparation  of  the  coffee,  yet  exhibited  their  wrecks,  but 
were  in  the  slow  train  of  reparation.  Until  these  are  repair- 
ed, the  process  is  carried  on  only  by  expedients  very  slow, 
but  with  care  effective  ;  earthen  pots  supplying  the  place  of 
steeping  cisterns,  cov/hides  instead  of  sloping  platforms  for 
drying,  and  wooden  troughs  and  hand  pestles,  the  place  of 
the  shelling-mill.  I  felt  much  satisfaction  at  the  cheerfulness 
and  contentedness  of  the  labouring  people  employed ;  there 
were  some  women  who  hid  been  slaves,  but  who  would  not 
separate  themselves  from  the  hacienda  of  their  former  master, 
and  who  appeared  to  feel  the  happiness  of  being  restored  to 
the  kindness  of  the  excellent  family,  by  whom  they  were  treat- 
ed as  kindly  as  their  kindred. 

Lanes  of  orange  trees  ornamented  the  verge  of  the  lower 
valley,  and  the  extremity  of  the  coffee  ground.  In  the  moun- 
tain, more  than  a  mile  distant,  but  which  scarcely  seemed  a 

13 


98  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

stone's  throw,  one  of  those  chasms  or  openings,  cliaracteristic 
of  the  mountain  regions,  was  displayed  by  the  abrupt  termi- 
nation of  the  hills  which  skirt  the  south  side  of  the  Guayra, 
from  the  westward  to  this  place  ;  this  leads  to  other  valleys, 
rich  as  that  of  Chacao,  far  to  the  south,  and  west,  and  east. 
After  spending  a  delightful  day,  we  returned  by  a  different 
route,  having  passed  the  handsome  bridge  of  Candelaria, 
over  the  Anuco,  on  going  out,  and  the  paved  caiseway  here- 
after noticed  on  our  return.  I  was  not  aware  .hat  there  was 
so  populous  a  suburb,  until  this  occasion  ;  tut  there  were 
several  villages  on  the  road,  and  in  full  active  population,  oc- 
cupied by  agriculture ;  and  many  arrieros,  with  their  mules, 
who  transport  the  fruits  of  the  valley  to  market.  We  were 
overtaken  by  the  light  shade  of  night  as  we  entered  the  city, 
which  we  found  to  be  already  very  generally  illuminated,  it 
being  the  27th,  and  the  name-day  of  Bolirar  being  the  next 
day  ;  so  that,  not  content  with  the  birthday  itself,  they  illu- 
minated the  night  before,  and  they  continued  it  on  the  29th, 
which  was  also  devoted  to  general  festivity  :  we  spent  an 
evening  as  agreeable  as  the  day,  the  spirits  light,  and  exhila- 
rated by  this  delicious  climate. 

The  28th  being  the  President's  bir:h  day,  the  voice  of 
the  artillery  was  heard  very  early  in  every  direction ;  and  the 
drum  gave  "a  louder  note"  than  common.  The  streets  of  Ca- 
racas are  usually  very  still,  and  seldom  crowded  in  ordinary ; 
on  this  day  they  appeared  like  ant-hiils  with  their  inhabitants 
in  motion.  The  military  shone  in  al  their  best  uniforms — if 
it  be  not  a  misnomer  to  call  that  aniform,  which  conforms 
to  no  common  cut,  or  pattern,  or  colour ;  but  they  formed 
to  a  stranger's  eye  an  attractive  spectacle,  some  in  blue,  red, 
or  yellow  short  coats,  with  blue,  red,  yellow,  or  white  pan- 
taloons ;  waistcoats  scarlet,  yellow,  or  white  ;  and  many  with 
each  of  the  three  garments  of  a  different  colour,  blue  or  red 
coat,  with  red  waistcoat,  and  yellow  trowsers ;  others  with 
trowscrs  a  la  Turc,  of  yellow,  white,  or  crimson,  tied  above 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  99 

the  ancle  ;  some  with  fan  hats^  and  others  with  the  like  di- 
versity of  leather,  straw,  or  Italian  caps,  and  towering  fea- 
thers of  diverse  hues.  There  were  some  officers  of  the  staff, 
who  paid  more  regard  to  military  uniformity,  who  wore  their 
blue  coats,  fan  hats,  boots,  white  waistcoats  and  breeches, 
sabres,  belts,  and  spurs.  These  varieties  of  colours  were 
not  altogether  the  effect  of  caprice  or  vanity  ;  there  was  a  re- 
gulation for  uniform,  but  a  regulation  could  neither  import 
cloth  sufficient  of  a  colour,  nor  pay  the  tailor ;  so  that  the 
necessities  of  the  case  authorised  an  innovation,  which  ca- 
price and  vanity  improved  upon. 

This  festival  drew  out  all  the  troops,  regulars  and  volun- 
teers ;  the  latter  composed,  like  our  own  during  the  late  war, 
of  the  promising  youth  of  the  most  opulent  families,  and 
best  educated,  who,  indeed,  appeared  to  as  much  advantage 
as  those  whom  they  resembled  :  the  diversity  in  the  uniform 
was  not  so  great  among  these  as  among  the  regular  officers. 
The  arms  were,  in  general,  in  excellent  condition  as  to  ap- 
pearance, but  some  were  fit  only  for  a  parade  of  ceremony. 

The  regulars  of  the  line  were  in  jackets  of  Russia  sheet- 
ing, Osnaburg  pantaloons,  shirts,  and  shoes,  and  apparel  ge- 
nerally in  very  good  condition,  whole,  and  neat.  The  caps 
were  the  leather  caps  of  the  French  fashion,  a  frustum  of  a 
cone  inverted,  with  a  shield  for  the  eyes  in  front,  in  good 
polish  ;  belts  and  other  accoutrements  neat.  Each  regiment 
had  a  facing,  such  as  red,  blue,  or  yellow,  and  the  cut  of  the 
clothing  proved  that  the  tailor's  establishment  was  complete. 

Such  of  the  officers  as  rode  during  the  day  were  well 
mounted ;  and  some  fine  horses,  sixteen  hands  high,  ap- 
peared on  parade,  the  first  I  had  seen  of  that  stature ;  bays 
and  blacks,  but  particularly  roans  and  moose- coloured.  I 
was  sorry  to  see  that  some  of  them  had  been  subjected  to 
that  cruel,  wanton,  and  pernicious  practice  of  nicking,  which 
undertakes  to  disfigure  that  beautiful  animal,  and  to  deprive 
him  of  the  means  of  protecting  himself  from   insects,  and 


100  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

often  injuring  his  health  and  temper.  The  saddles  worn  by 
the  mounted  officers  were  the  high-peaked  and  cantled,  the 
only  saddles  fit  or  safely  to  be  worn  in  this  steep  moun- 
tainous country.  The  housings  were  not  agreeable  to  the 
eye  of  those  who  are  accustomed  to  uniformity  ;  they  were 
extravagantly  gaudy,  and  no  two  alike. 

I  had  full  opportunity  to  see  the  troops  move,  and  they  must 
not  have  had  ears  or  souls  if  they  did  not  move  well,  and  in  time 
to  their  inimitable  drums  and  bugles  and  wind  instruments,  of 
which  there  were  several  distinct  bands ;  their  marching  was 
in  lively  animating  triple  time,  and  their  attention  and  silence 
most  exemplary.  I  could  not  but  recollect  my  two  poor 
sentinels  at  Laguayra,  and  wished  they  were  here  to  share  the 
new  regimentals,  or  at  least  a  pair  of  paragattas  each,  and  a 
part  of  the  good  things  that  were  handed  along  the  line.  Sal- 
vos of  artillery  took  place,  and  the  troops  went  through  the 
usual  tbrms  common  in  other  countries. 

The  churches  were  all  open,  and  it  was  on  this  occasion 
that  with  my  daughter  I  attended  high  mass  in  the  cathe- 
dral, where  the  Intendant  with  his  suite  were  present ;  his 
coat  was  of  scarlet  with  embroidery  of  gold,  that  would  not 
have  appeared  to  disadvantage  in  the  cortege  of  Napoleon. 

After  high  mass  was  finished  the  troops  formed  in  the 
great  square.  A  pavilion  had  been  erected  over  the  flight 
of  stairs  at  the  north  entrance,  and  a  full  band  of  vocal  and 
instrumental  musicians  performed  some  musical  pieces,  and 
there  were  recited  and  sung  some  odes  written  for  the  occa- 
sion, in  which  whenever  the  name  of  Bolivar  occurred, 
and  it  was  the  whole  theme,  the  air  resounded  with  accla- 
mations, not  only  from  the  soldiery,  but  from  the  vast  con- 
course assembled.  Where  I  had  placed  myself,  I  could 
hear  many  exulting  expressions  and  allusions  to  former 
times,  and  to  the  cruel  butcheries  that  had  been  committed 
on  that  very  plaza,  which  was  at  that  moment  the  scene  of 
triumph  and  grateful  celebration  of  the  hero,  whose  con- 
stancy  had   surmounted  all  difficulties,   and  liberated   his 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  101 

country.  Numerous  ladies  attended,  and  the  windows  of 
the  adjacent  houses  were  crowded  with  them.  Tears  of  joy 
and  of  remembrance  flowed  in  abundance  from  the  eyes  of 
aged  matrons,  and  widows,  whose  fathers,  husbands,  bro- 
thers, or  sons,  had  perished  by  Spanish  vindictiveness,  and 
whose  wrongs  were  expiated  by  the  triumph  with  which 
they  could  not  but  be  assimilated  on  this  occasion. 

The  evening  had  been  assigned  for  a  splendid  ball.  A  com- 
mittee was  selected  from  the  principal  citizens  and  officers, 
to  whom  the  direction  was  given,  and  who  acted  as  stew- 
ards, to  which  we  had  the  honour  of  an  invitation,  and  of 
which  I  shall  give  some  account,  as  indicative  of  customs  and 
manners,  in  the  next  chapter. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Anniversary  of  Bolivar,  28th  October — rejoicing  and  ball — sketches  of  manners 
— dancing — music — waltzing. — Customs  derived  from  Spain  remaining. — Eti- 
quette.— Equality  realized. — Many  beauties  absent,  royalists. — The  magna- 
nimity of  the  republicans  towards  the  royalist  families,  a  noble  contrast  with 
that  of  the  Spaniards  to  patriot  females. — An  exposition  of  the  principles  of 
this  conduct  by  a  revolutionary  sage. — Dr.  Litchfield. — Party  to  Chacao. — 
Evening  at  Blandin's — plantation  described — and  house — the  excellent  means 
for  steeping  and  preparing  coffee — the  augmentation  of  the  plantation — kind 
of  soil — females  of  the  family — domestic  concert. — Generous  feeling  towards 
Bolivar. — Midnight  party. — Exquisite  climate. — Novel  aspect  of  ruins  by 
night. 

The  whole  of  the  28th  was  a  day  of  uninterrupted  festivity. 
The  climate,  always  temperate,  was,  on  this  occasion,  particu- 
larly favourable  to  the  interchange  of  visits  and  to  walking. 
The  streets  were  crowded  by  the  genteel  class  of  young 
ladies,  visiting  some  hours  in  their  gayest  apparel,  and  di- 


102  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

vested  of  every  care  but  innocent  enjoyment.  The  side 
tables  in  every  house  were  covered  with  refreshments  and 
bouquettes ;  and  it  was  not  until  near  night  that  the  neces- 
sity of  preparing  for  the  ball  left  the  streets,  for  a  short  time, 
in  silence. 

No  hall,  in  any  private  house,  could  be  procured  sufficient 
for  the  accommodation  of  so  large  a  company  as  was  in- 
vited. One  of  the  largest  houses,  however,  had,  besides  a 
spacious  hall,  a  contiguous  saloon  and  corridore  ;  and  these 
were  enclosed  and  floored  for  the  dance,  and  the  adjacent 
chambers  for  an  entertainment,  substantial  and  convivial. 

The  company  had  assembled  before  eight — a  double  band, 
for  relief,  was  established  in  a  passage  between  the  saloon 
and  the  floored  corridore,  so  that  two  sets  might  dance  at 
the  same  time ;  and  the  dancing  soon  commenced.  In  the 
Spanish  contra-dance  the  couples  stand  as  in  our  contra- 
dances,  and  the  order  is  for  the  leading  couple  to  dance  down 
the  whole  set.  But  the  musical  time  and  the  figures  are 
substantially  different.  The  elastic  bounding  figured  steps, 
and,  in  a  word,  the  exercise  of  our  style  of  dancing,  are  not 
known  in  the  Spanish  dance  ;  the  time  is  rather  slower  than 
the  waltz  in  general,  and,  like  waltzing,  consists  more  of 
measured  pacing  than  vivacious  dancing  ;  the  figures  too  are 
more  involved  ;  for,  although  they  change  right  and  left,  and 
perform  all  the  common  movements  of  our  contra-dance,  it  is 
performed  in  graduated  pacing,  in  which  the  hands  partake 
as  much  as  the  feet,  and  the  inclination  of  the  head  and  in- 
flections of  the  person,  exhibit  the  most  graceful  positions  of 
the  figure.  At  first  the  force  of  custom  interferes  with  the 
idea  of  pleasure  to  a  stranger  ;  it  had  not  life  enough  for  me ; 
but,  after  a  little  use,  it  becomes  highly  agreeable,  and  where 
the  dancing  and  music  are  so  fine,  very  interesting. 

Waltzing  followed  the  first  set  of  contra- dancing,  and 
continued  alternately  till  about  twelve,  when  parties  of  ladies 
only  were  drawn  off  for  refreshment ;  after  which  the  gentle- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  103 

men  were  detached   in  turn,   so  as   not   to  interrupt   the 
dancing. 

I  had  full  opportunities  to  review  this  new  and  very  inte- 
resting assembly,  on  this  interesting  occasion.  The  Inten- 
dant  was  present,  at  the  birth  day  of  his  friend,  as  the 
station  he  occupied  would  necessarily  call  for.  He  was  in 
the  regular  blue  uniform,  and  took  his  station  at  the  head  of 
the  room,  the  custom  of  the  Spaniards  yet  prevailing ;  and 
I  found  it  the  same  at  Bogota.  Adopting  the  Spanish  laws, 
from  the  very  impossibility  of  forming  a  new  code  in  the 
midst  of  war,  the  other  usages  go  along  with  them.  It  is,  no 
doubt,  harmless,  that  a  governor  should  preside  at  a  festive 
celebration  ;  but,  as  of  prescriptive  right,  which  custom,  long 
pursued,  comes  to  be,  it  is  not  consistent  with  the  equality  of 
a  free  state,  that  the  authority,  vested  as  a  trust  for  public  be- 
nefit, should  give  countenance  to  a  prerogative  of  precedency, 
where  the  principles  of  equality  admit  a  magistrate  to  a  pri- 
vate house  with  no  prerogative  above  that  of  any  other  citizen. 
There  was  certainly  no  intention  to  set  up  an  authority  in  the 
circle  of  domestic  festivity,  but  a  free  people  should  not 
suffer  a  mere  usage,  at  present  not  suspected  to  be  evil,  that 
may  become  one  very  serious.  The  Spanish  minister  Yrujo, 
during  his  residence  in  the  United  States,  attempted  to  en- 
force an  etiquette  of  precedence  at  the  entertainments  which 
the  President  of  the  United  States  gave  to  public  ministers 
and  their  families  ;  but  it  was  not  tolerated  ;  the  President, 
with  his  usual  discernment  and  firmness,  saw  that  it  would 
lead  to  an  endless  squabble  between  the  jealous  vanity  of 
one  sex  and  the  diplomatic  artifices  of  the  other.  He  de- 
cided that  the  first  lady  who  came  to  his  entertainment 
should  have  the  first  place,  and  so  in  succession.  That 
there  were  no  orders  or  degrees  of  priority  or  precedence  in 
republics,  and,  if  it  were  not  proper  that  he  should  discharge 
his  domestic  duties,  he  would  give  his  chair  to  any  of  his 
guests ;  for  he  was  only  a  citizen  at  the  festive  board.     It  ife 


104  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

but  just  to  say  that  general  Soublette  neither  presumed  nor 
assumed  any  thing  unbecoming,  he  compHed  with  a  custom 
estabhshed ;  and  no  one  was  offended,  or  even  suspected,  it 
would  seem,  that  there  was  any  thing  incongenial  with  free- 
dom in  the  usage. 

There  were  sixty  couple  in  each  of  the  two  sets  on  the 
floor,  and  in  motion  at  the  same  moment.  As  the  dancing- 
rooms  were  spacious,  the  intervals  behind  the  dancers  af- 
forded ample  space  to  see  all  the  dancing  parties ;  and  I  had 
an  ample  opportunity  to  view  the  beauties  of  Caracas.  As 
the  officers  of  the  army  every  where  are  acquainted  with  the 
ladies,  I  had  selected  a  friend  from  that  class  to  be  my  con- 
ductor, and,  as  we  passed  along  the  gay  ranks,  I  had  the 
names  and  anecdotes  of  all  who  moved  before  us,  male  and 
fe?male.  I  treasure  nothing  up  on  such  occasions  unless  it 
be  honourable  and  agreeable  ;  my  memory  has  no  place  for 
any  thing  else  ;  and  it  was  with  sincere  delight,  of  which  time 
has  not  diminished  the  remembrance,  that  1  saw  on  that  occa- 
sion a  scene  of  concord  and  liberality,  good  sense  and  propriety, 
which  the  enemies  of  the  revolution  had  pretended  to  be  im- 
possible, and  the  enemies  of  that  revolution  are  the  enemies  to 
liberty  every  where,  whatever  they  may  pretend  to ;  I  saw  in  the 
unaffected  and  cheerful  intercourse  and  association  of  that  ev- 
ening, the  confutation  of  those  croaking  predictions  and  mali- 
cious aspersions  cast  upon  the  revolutionists,  before  triumph 
put  a  seal  upon  their  cause  ;  it  was  predicted  that  the  people 
of  colour  could  never  agree  with  those  of  fair  complexion. 
Here  I  saw  beauties  as  fair  as  Cynthia,  and  as  ruddy  as  Hebe, 
brilliant  white  and  roseate,  gracefully  traversing  the  mazes  of 
the  dance,  with  citizens  composed  of  every  shade,  from  fair  to 
the  complexion  of  the  native  Indian  ;  women,  however,  well 
educated  in  the  best  knowledge  taught  in  the  country,  and  not 
the  less  esteemed  for  not  being  wholly  fair  complexioned. 
The  apprehensions  insinuated  by  Depons,  and  attempted  to 
be  realized  by  Spanish  emissaries,  were  here  proved  to  be  an 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  105 

illusion ;  there  was  no  discrimination  now  made,  but  by  in- 
tellectual and  moral  fitness  for  personal  respect  or  public  sta- 
tion, The  native  Indian  is  no  more  a  slave  under  the  pre- 
tence of  being  protected,  or  placed  for  security  in  an  encomi- 
enda  ;  he  is  not  compelled  to  abide  with  a  number  of  others, 
unfortunate  as  himself,  and  to  cultivate  a  piece  of  ground  in 
common,  and  pay  to  his  tyrants  an  annual  tribute,  only  be- 
cause his  ancestors  were  enslaved  by  ibreign  invaders,  and  the 
enslavement  entailed  on  their  successors.  The  Indian  is  now 
a  man  like  other  men,  and  they  have  earned  it  with  the 
blood  which  they  devoted  to  the  emancipation  of  their  coun- 
try. The  obligation  is  felt,  and,  to  the  honour  of  human 
nature,  it  is  honestly  acknowledged. 

I  was  gratified  to  see  this  rational  regeneration,  and  I  was 
surprized  to  learn,  when  expressing  my  satisfaction  at  seeing 
so  many  and  such  beautiful  and  elegant  women,  that  all  the 
beauty  of  Caracas  was  not  there  ;  my  guide  informed  me, 
that  the  ladies  of  several  respectable  families  were  absent, 
and  among  them  many  very  beautiful  women.  In  short,  he 
told  me  that  they  were  females  of  families  devoted  to  the 
royal  cause,  to  whom  the  occasion  of  this  festival  was  a 
source  of  mourning  instead  of  joy,  and  that  they  attended  no 
festivity  which  had  approval  of  the  revolution  for  its  object. 
What  a  subject  for  reflection  !  How  glorious  is  it  for  the  cause 
of  liberty  to  inspire  and  practise  so  much  moderation !  What 
a  contrast  does  this  generous  toleration  present  to  that  brutali- 
ty which  the  royalists  displayed  to  the  wives  and  daughters  of 
the  republicans  !  I  could  not  but  take  renewed  delight  when 
I  saw  passing  before  me  the  lovely  wife  and  daughter  of 
Lino  Clemente,  who  but  barely  escaped  with  life  into  exile, 
and  now  move  among  the  most  distinguished  of  their  coun- 
try, in  celebrating  that  liberty  which  disdained  to  retaliate 
upon  innocent  women,  actuated  by  love  of  their  parents  to 
adhere  to  an  unfortunate  cause,  the  injuries  which  those  very 

14 


106  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

parents  perhaps  had  inflicted  on  those  who  now  triumphed  in 
glorious  joy  and  more  glorious  humanity. 

In  turning  this  subject  in  my  mind,  I  became  apprehen- 
sive, that  this  indulgence,  like  that  to  the  ex-nobles  in 
France  and  elsewhere,  might  prove  pernicious ;  in  conver- 
sation with  a  venerable  patriot  the  next  day,  I  touched  this 
subject,  and  inquired  if  there  was  any  foundation  for  appre- 
hension. His  sentiments  were  as  noble  and  generoub  as 
they  were  wise  ;  I  cannot  express  them  with  the  sparkling  eye 
and  glow  of  satisfaction  which  he  displayed ;  but  what  he 
said  was  to  this  eifect : 

It  is  very  true,  said  hcy  that  those  very  interesting  ladies 
make  it  a  rule  not  to  partake  in  any  national  festivity  ;  and 
it  is  the  more  to  be  regretted,  because  they  were  foremost 
in  such  festivals  as  were  customary  when  the  royalists  tri- 
umphed over  our  disasters.  But  they  are  females,  what  else 
could  they  do?  their  parents  had  educated  them  in  those 
principles,  and  shall  we,  who  inculcate  the  duty  of  children  to 
their  parents,  punish  them  for  only  doing  what  we  cherish, 
and  are  proud  of  our  own  children  for  doing  in  accord 
with  that  duty  ?  They  are  innocent  creatures,  nay,  I  know 
many  of  them  to  be  worthy  of  esteem  and  admiration. 
What  could  they  do  to  injure  us?  we  are  not  destitute  of 
women  worthy  to  be  wives  to  our  sons ;  and  if  those  do  not 
marry  republicans,  they  can  have  no  other  husbands  here ; 
they  cannot  live  in  celibacy  fifty  years  longer ;  and  if  they 
marry  at  all^  they  must  have  republicans,  and  then  even 
their  children — those  children  they  love,  will  be  Colombians 
and  not  Spaniards.  It  was  worthy  of  a  sage  like  Franklin, 
and  the  sentiments  do  honour  to  the  country  and  the  cause. 

It  was  very  late  when  I  retired  from  this  ball ;  at  which 
the  profusion  of  luxuries — the  abundance  of  Champaign, 
Burgundy,  Muscadel,  and  other  wines,  and  the  unalloyed 
happiness  and  hilarity  that  prevailed,  I  never  saw  surpassed 
any  where. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  i07 

As  our  circle  of  intercourse  extended,  so  did  the  hospi- 
talities and  kindness  of  our  friends.  Dr.  Franklin  Litch- 
field, an  American,  long  a  resident,  married  to  a  lady  of  un- 
common worth  and  fine  understanding,  had  rendered  us  un- 
unceasing  kindness  and  service.  American  visitors  to  Ca- 
racas found  in  him  an  invaluable  and  assiduous  friend ;  his 
appointment  to  the  consulate  at  Puerto  Cabello,  while  it  does 
credit  to  those  who  appointed  him,  deprives  the  American  vi- 
sitors of  Caracas  of  a  sure  resort  whenever  aid  was  necessary. 
He  made  us  acquainted  with  Mr.  Blandin,  a  name  familiar 
to  travellers,  and  proverbial  for  his  hospitality. 

A  party,  of  both  sexes,  was  formed  to  visit  Mr.  Blandin 
and  family,  at  his  residence  about  four  miles  east  of  the 
city,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  south  base  of  the 
SlUa,  in  the  valley  of  Chacao.  The  residence  is  more  than 
a  mile  from  the  road  to  Petare,  and  leads  along  the  trench 
through  which  the  stream  that  irrigates  the  coffee  plantation, 
finds  its  way  to  the  Guayra ;  it  was  bounded  by  a  hedge  of 
lime  trees,  not  very  much  attended  to,  but  bearing  fine  fruit. 
The  coffee  plantation  stands  between  the  road  and  the  dwell- 
ing,, and  the  beautiful  erithryna,  with  its  wall-flower-like 
blossom,  more  abundant  than  its  foliage,  intercepted  the  view 
of  the  house,  until  close  upon  it.  Our  path  to  the  house 
was  amidst  the  avenues  of  the  coffee-tree,  beautiful,  luxuri- 
ant, and  loaded  with  fruit.  The  young  people  were  busy 
with  their  delicate  fingers,  picking,  with  skilful  dexterity, 
the  brown  berries  from  the  long  beads  among  which  they 
had  grown,  and  depositing  them  in  neat  baskets  carried  on 
the  left  arm  ;  the  fruit  being  in  every  stage  of  growth,  at 
the  same  time,  and  the  tree  never  ceasing  to  bear. 

We  entered  the  court-yard  from  the  east  side,  through 
which  a  handsome  stream  made  its  way,  gurgling  and  fall- 
ing over  little  steps,  dividing  and  occupying  two  channels, 
one  of  which  rambled  along  a  bed  of  pebbles  in  front  of  a 
platform  raised  about  three  feet  above  the  spacious  area  in 


108  VISIT    TO   COLOMBIA. 

front  of  the  dwelling,  the  other  rill  discharging  its  water  into 
a  capacious  circular  bason  of  masonry,  which  stood  two  or 
three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  area. 

We  had  crossed  this  chattering  rivulet,  and  passed  the 
left  wing  of  the  dwelling,  when  Mr,  Blandin  came  forward, 
called  servants  to  take  our  horses,  and,  when  he  had  seated  us 
in  a  spacious  hall  open  to  the  south,  he  welcomed  us  seve- 
rally, and  ordered  some  fruit,  sherbet,  and  other  refreshments. 
The  lady  of  the  house,  and  her  sister,  and  a  daughter  of 
about  twelve,  soon  after  came,  and  we  were  all  at  our  eise 
in  a  few  minutes.  I  left  the  ladies  to  their  own  discourse, 
and  visited  the  various  parts  of  this  truly  splendid  and  perfect 
establishment. 

The  dwelling  itself,  was  exactly  like  a  real  bungalow  of 
Bengal,  in  form,  spacious,  lofty,  and  made  of  the  like  ma- 
terials. The  conviction  of  the  danger  of  pita  walls,  after 
the  earthquake  of  1812,  determined  this  judicious  planter  to 
erect  a  dwelling,  of  which  the  walls  should  be  bamboo ;  and, 
though  the  climate  is  not  sufficiently  warm  to  produce  the 
bamboo  there,  the  valleys  south  and  east  afforded  him  am- 
ple supplies.  I  did  not  measure,  but  I  guess  that  the  front 
of  the  dwelling  must  be  more  than  sixty  feet.  A  neat 
apartment  of  about  twenty  feet  in  front,  and  about  the  same 
depth,  occupied  each  extremity  ;  the  space  between  these 
two  apartments  is  open  like  a  corridore  with  bamboo  pillars, 
which  sustain  the  front  of  the  roof,  not  less  than  twenty  feet 
high,  at  the  eaves  ;  and  forming  part  of  the  single  roof, 
that  covers  tlie  whole  extent  of  the  dwelling ;  which  ap- 
peared to  have  several  excellent  rooms  w'ithin  the  verandah^ 
as  it  would  be  called  in  Hindustan. 

In  front  of  the  house,  and  of  the  offices  on  the  west  end, 
a  spacious  paved  area,  forty  or  more  feet  broad,  extended 
cast  and  west  about  two  hundred  yards  ;  the  mills,  pounding 
house,  cleaning  and  store  houses,  occupied  a  very  ample 
space  ;  the  stream,  which  had  its  source  in  the  Silla,  was  con- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  109 

ducted,  by  ingenious  contrivances,  to  turn  an  overshot  mill 
wheel,  which  performed  the  services  that  employ  human  la- 
bour on  other  plantations,  various  means  of  cleansing  and 
separating  the  clean  grain  from  the  husk.  There  was  a 
smithery,  carpentery,  and  other  workshops,  which  required 
only  occasional  employment,  but,  where  artisans  and  imple- 
ments are  not  abundant,  were  essential  to  an  establishment  so 
ample. 

The  raised  platform  noticed  before,  ranged  east  and  west 
on  the  south  side  of  the  paved  area,  along  the  whole  front ; 
it  was  of  brick  work,  about  three  feet  from  the  pavement  on 
the  inner  side,  six  or  eight  inches  lower  on  the  outer  side, 
so  as  to  have  a  gentle  slope,  and  receive  the  full  force  of  the 
sun's  rays,  when  the  grain  was  spread,  before  or  after  steep- 
ing, or  drying  for  packing  up  ;  several  steeping  cisterns, 
with  trap  doors,  were  placed  at  equal  distances  in  the  plat- 
form, so  that  in  the  various  processes  of  steeping  and  drying 
no  extra  labour  was  required,  nor  time  lost  in  shifting  it  from 
one  place  of  the  operation  to  the  other.  The  stream  which 
was  noticed  at  the  entrance,  after  being  dipersed  to  various 
points  ;  after  turning  the  mill  wheel,  supplying  domestic  uses, 
furnishing  the  kitchen,  the  laundry,  and  the  bathing  apart- 
ments ;  reunited  its  dispersed  rivulets,  in  the  circular  bason 
constructed  of  stone  south  of  the  platform,  in  which  silver 
and  gold  fish  sported  ;  and  the  redundant  water  overflowing- 
through  several  prepared  spouts,  again  dispersed  over  more 
depressed  courses,  through  which  it  spread  and  meandered, 
through  channels  prepared  and  graduated  to  conduct  it  over 
the  whole  coffee  orchard. 

The  number  of  bearing  trees  at  this  time  was  about  ten 
thousand,  and  their  average  product  gave  a  dollar  a  tree  per 
annum.  A  more  ample  field  was  in  preparation  ;  east  and 
south-east  of  that  already  in  production.  As  the  ground 
was  naked,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  distinctly  examining  it ; 
the  soil  was  of  a  dry  light  composition,  rather  resembling 


110  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

wood  ashes,  mixed  with  pulverized  schist  or  slate,  and  dim 
sparkles  resembling  mica,  but  not  so  large  or  bright.  Even 
this  soil  was  thin  and  scanty.  Fire  had  been  employed  to 
clear  several  acres  of  brambles  and  exuberant  wild  briars ; 
the  space  uncleared  was  covered  with  the  common  bramble, 
Rubus  CoryfoliuSy  and  cloud  blackberry,  Rubus  Chamamo- 
rus  ;  and  other  wild  brambles  peculiar  to  the  climate,  and 
Hot  named  in  our  botanical  works.  The  rocks  appeared 
nearly  as  abundant  as  the  surface  covered  with  the  scanty  soil, 
and,  in  truth,  the  whole  plantation  on  which  the  coffee  plant  was 
thus  luxuriant  and  prolific  was  of  the  same  description,  so 
that  climate  and  irrigation  appear  to  be  the  essential  requi- 
sites. The  theories  of  writers  who  have  not  seen  this  culti- 
vation, are  therefore  not  to  be  wholly  relied  on.  Depons, 
with  all  his  experience,  says  that  it  is  requisite  to  be  at  some 
distance  from  the  sea,  the  air  of  which  withers  the  coffee. 
Mr.  Blandin's  trees  have  the  screen  of  the  Avila  mountain 
and  the  peak  of  the  Silla  between  them  and  the  sea,  but  at 
Curucuti,  on  the  north  face  of  the  Avila,  in  sight  of  Maqui- 
teia  and  the  Caribbean  sea,  and  open  to  the  north  and  north- 
west, the  most  pernicious  winds  of  that  region,  the  coffee- 
tree  flourishes  in  the  same  beauty  and  abundance  as  at  Mr. 
Blandin's.  The  father  of  this  gentleman  was  the  first  who  in- 
troduced the  coffee  culture  here  in  1784 ;  he  had  been  a 
planter  in  the  French  colonies,  and  his  respectable  descend- 
ant, when  he  received  us,  was  in  the  usual  attire  of  the  West 
Indies,  a  loose  robe,  or  morning  gown,  and  a  cambric  hand- 
kerchief in  a  negligent  state  covered  his  head.  Well-dres- 
sed female  domestics  performed  the  services  of  the  house, 
without  any  appearance  of  direction  or  command,  but  the 
exactness ;  and  their  cheerfulness  was  manifest  in  their  hap- 
py visages.  Chocolate  and  ice-cream,  and  the  never- failing 
nor  ever-cloying  sweetmeats,  and  indeed  all  that  might  be 
expected  at  an  opulent  West  India  planter's,  and  given  with 
such  kindness,  as  seemed  to  infer  a  compliment  in  the  ac- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  111 

ceptance.  As  the  sun  advanced  westward  we  were  conduct- 
ed to  the  sitting  room,  where  we  found  a  most  elegant  or- 
ganized harp  of  French  manufacture.  How  it  came  there, 
or  how  brought,  was  the  sentiment  which  succeeded  the  sa- 
tisfaction of  seeing  and  hearing  its  excellent  tones.  Some 
of  the  officers  of  the  army,  who  were  of  our  party,  and  the  la- 
dies, soon  formed  a  concert,  and  executed  some  symphonies 
of  Mozart  in  a  perfect  style.  One  of  the  officers  proved  to 
conceal  beneath  a  modest  deportment  a  most  accomphshed 
performer,  and  in  a  fine  style  accompanied  with  his  violin 
the  pieces  which  the  ladies  executed  on  the  harp  ;  the  influit 
daughter  displayed  evidence  of  the  care  and  success  with 
which  her  ear  had  been  formed,  and  her  voice  and  finger 
practised.  The  order  and  happiness  of  this  family  was  en- 
viable, not  because  they  could  be  less  than  they  merited, 
but  because  it  would  be  desirable  that  all  human  beings 
should  partake  the  like  felicity.  The  respectable  master  of 
the  house,  though  he  spoke  not  a  word  while  they  were 
singing  and  playing,  was  visibly  the  soul  of  the  concert ; 
he  watched  and  enjoyed  the  performance  with  a  delight  that 
would  seem  to  belong  to  those  only  who  were  for  the  first 
time  made  partakers  of  his  hospitality  and  its  pleasure ;  in- 
deed, his  delight  appeared  increased  with  the  satisfaction 
and  the  enthusiasm  of  some  of  us.  He  did  not  sit  down 
during  the  performance  ;  his  stock  of  music  was  ample,  and 
appeared  to  be  kept  in  so  much  order,  that  he  never  looked 
at  the  piece  which  he  drew  from  the  ample  bureau,  but  pre- 
sented it  to  his  lady  or  her  sister,  or  to  the  gentlemen  who  led 
in  particular  pieces.  I  could  not  avoid  complimenting  this 
worthy  man,  by  telling  him  he  need  not  envy  the  condi- 
tion of  any  man  on  earth.  "  Yes,"  said  he,  "  there  is  one 
man  whom  I  envy,  though  I  love,"  and  pointing  to  the 
only  picture  in  the  apartment ;  on  approaching  it,  I  found  it 
to  be  Bolivar.  His  expression  of  countenance  and  eye, 
-which  seemed  to  twinkle  with  delight,  conveyed  sentiments 


112  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

more  expressive  than  any  form  of  language.  1  was  silent 
for  a  few  moments,  for  I  did  not  desire  to  disturb  either  his 
exquisite  feelings  nor  my  own  ;  but  I  endeavoured  to  trans- 
late his  thoughts,  which  seemed  to  say,  *'  It  is  true,  I  am 
happy  in  the  midst  of  my  family  and  in  the  affection  of  my 
friends ;  I  want  nothing  for  comfort,  enjoyment,  or  gratifi- 
cation ;  but  what  are  the  enjoyments  of  a  single  household 
compared  with  the  fehcity  of  soul  which  that  man  must  en- 
joy, who,  by  years  of  disinterested  labours,  dangers,  and 
indescribable  sufferings  and  sacrifices,  has  led  his  country- 
men to  triumph  over  a  pernicious  government,  -and  not  only 
given  freedom  to  his  contemporaries,  but  secured  it  for  thou- 
sands of  generations  that  are  to  come?" 

Our  delight  stole  away  our  time,  and  we  certainly  must 
have  trespassed  on  the  domestic  regularity  which  was  every 
where  so  manifest ;  and  when  we  stated  our  apprehensions, 
we  were  assured  that  they  were  not  the  slaves  of  time  or 
ceremony  ;  that,  as  it  was  in  their  power  to  compensate  by 
•sleep  at  any  other  time,  the  hours  devoted  to  agreeable  inter- 
course, it  was  only  painful  when  it  was  not  continuous.  We, 
however,  decided — our  horses  were  soon  at  the  door,  and 
taking  leave  of  these  happy  people,  about  one  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  we  retraced  our  way  through  the  now  dark  shadows 
of  the  beautiful  Erithryna,  and  the  avenues  of  the  coffee 
tree. 

The  night  was,  as  it  is  usually  at  the  season,  serene,  the 
Ijright  blue  canopy,  studded  with  its  splendid  host  of  bril- 
liant worlds,  and  the  air  so  pure  and  transparent,  that  the 
apparent  monument  at  Petare,  three  miles  east  of  our  path, 
was  distinctly  visible ;  and  one  of  the  lofty  churches  of 
Caracas,  in  the  west,  as  distinctly  marked. 

We  passed  by  a  plantation  on  our  way  home,  which  be- 
longed to  a  gentleman,  a  native  of  Caracas,  who,  after  study- 
ing medicine,  could  not  find,  in  a  population  of  30,000  souls, 
enough  of  sickness  to  live  by,  and  therefore  determining  not 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  118 

to  "  die  of  the  doctor^''  had  established  himself  here,  and 
was  already  rich. 

A  ruin,  which  we  were  too  busy  to  regard  on  our  way  to 
Blandin's,  now,  in  the  silence  of  the  night,  attracted  my  atten- 
tion ;  it  stands  close  under  the  south-west  foot  of  the  Silla, 
and  close  to  the  ascent ;  it  bore  the  ruined  appearance 
of  former  splendor,  and  like  a  solitary  palace  of  Persepolis, 
the  roofless  walls  and  columns  still  standing.  It  had  been 
erected  by  some  former  chief  ruler,  and  occupied  later  by  a 
man  of  wealth,  who  proved  faithless  to  his  country.  Many 
structures  of  a  similar  character  are  in  a  like  state.  Oppor- 
tunities were  frequent,  when,  by  returning  to  their  first  love, 
those  mistaken  men  might  have  been  reconciled  to  their 
country  ;  but  the  infatuated  could  not  be  persuaded  that  the 
untutored  soldier  of  Colombia  could  ever  resist  the  veterans 
of  Spain.  These  mistaken  loyalists  now  find,  too  late,  how 
little  of  gratitude  is  due  to  the  monarch,  who,  by  his  relent- 
less disregard  of  every  consideration  but  his  own  despotic 
will,  continues  to  augment  their  sufferings. 

The  republics,  however,  have  no  reason  to  regret  the 
royal  infatuation.  The  venerable  Charles  Thomson,  secre- 
tary to  the  Revolutionary  congress,  once  said  to  me,  that 
**  the  Revolution  of  1776  was  obtained  too  cheap,  and  be- 
fore the  acquisition  was  duly  appreciated  ;  the  greatest  of  its 
evils  were  produced  by  natives,  who  had  deserted  their  coun- 
try, and  misled  the  British  ministry  ;  when  the  object  was 
accomplished,  the  same  class  of  men,  those  who  had  been 
false  friends,  and  those  whom  the  generosity  of  the  republi- 
cans had  permitted  to  return,  expected  by  treachery  to  ac- 
complish what  had  failed  by  arms — they  failed,  but  the  mis- 
chief they  have  done  proves  the  mistake  of  those  whose  ge- 
nerosity they  abused."  The  South  American  republics  are 
exempted  from  this  experience  by  Ferdinand  VII. 

15 


114 


CHAPTER  VIIl. 

Preparations  for  departure — friendly  solicitudes  for  our  safety  on  the  journey — 
pictures  not  exag-gerated, — advice  and  precautions  founded  on  our  subsequent 
experience. — No  wheel  carriages, — no  hotels  or  taverns, — no  beds, — how  to 
provide  in  various  particulars — comfort  after  fatigue  no  bad  thing, — what 
it  is  necessary  to  provide  for  comfort  and  safety — hammock,  blanket,  suitable 
saddle, — a  hint  to  guard  against  unpleasant  company, — oil-cloth  cloak  a  good 
thing. — Romeros  what  they  are, — hints  on  saddles,  bridles,  and  cruppers — 
and  on  the  knavery  of  the  muleteers, — maps  and  itinerarie3,-~the  uncertainty 
of  computed  distances  in  leagues, — no  dependance  on  muleteers  on  this  sub- 
ject— some  functions  of  alcaldes — direct  the  supply  of  mules — the  advan- 
tages of  this  usage — purchase  of  riding  mules — provide  for  the  exigencies  of 
the  road — experience  as  to  provisions — loading  of  mules — hire  an  hombre  dr 
provechero  and  cocmero, — vary  their  names, — impose  on  us  as  to  their  fitness 
for  guides, — travel  ai-med, — mules  unladen  on  halting, — mode  of  bivouacking  in 
the  forests,  and  on  the  paramos, — fingers,  and  thumbs,  and  calabashes,  exis- 
ted before  knives,  forks,  and  spoons  ; — a  good  sharp  tomahawk, — tinder  and 
matches, — good  economical  articles — prepare  to  march. 

Our  residence  at  Caracas  was  now  short  of  a  month ; 
intimacies  had  been  formed ;  and  attentions,  kindness,  and 
hospilahty,  had  been  so  constant  and  so  generous,  that  the 
approach  of  the  period  of  departure  on  our  journey  became 
irksome.  Elizabeth  had  been  repeatedly  solicited  by  Se- 
iiora  Antonia  and  her  daughter,  and  by  Senora  Clemente 
and  flimily,  and  others,  to  remain  till  my  return  to  Caracas, 
(as  was  my  first  intention) — it  was  represented  that  no  lady 
had  ever  attempted  such  a  journey  before — that  her  delicate 
frame  was  not  such  as  could  encounter  the  fatigues,  hazards, 
and  privations  which  were  inevitable,  from  the  total  want  of 
roads,  and  the  desolation  of  a  great  part  of  the  route  by  the 
Spaniards.  Indeed,  friendly  admonitions  and  persuasions 
wtre  so  unceasing — that  the  perils  attending  /as  tierras 
montanoso  y  seco — los  paramos  frio — las  lliwias  ponderosos — 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  115 

hs  noches  peligrosos — and  las  llanos  acalarados — were  so 
constantly  rung  in  our  ears,  that,  althougii  there  was  really 
no  exaggeration  in  the  description,  we  found  ourselves  less 
disconcerted  when  the  toils,  privations,  and  fatigues, .  were 
realized,  than  we  might  have  been,  had  they  not  been  de- 
picted and  reiterated  with  so  much  kindness  and  truth, 
Elizabeth  had  not,  however,  undertaken  the  journey  to  be 
deterred  by  those  difficulties  of  which  she  had,  from  reading, 
anticipated  before  she  set  out,  and  her  usual  reply  was,  that 
she  had  her  father  and  brother  with  her,  that  she  could  go 
any  where  they  could  go,  and  live  upon  whatever  would 
subsist  them.  Indeed,  her  health,  which  had  been  feeble, 
and  the  restoration  of  which  was  a  principal  object  of  her 
undertaking  the  journey,  had  been  already  much  improved  ; 
and  at  all  events,  she  said,  separation  from  her  father  was 
out  of  the  question.  Accordingly  we  set  about  our  prepa- 
rations. 

Travellers  in  distant  countries,  owe  it  to  those  who  are  to 
follow  in  the  same  route,  to  afford  such  information  as  may 
enable  them  to  provide  against  incoveniencies,  of  the  mode 
best  to  be  pursued  to  facilitate  travelling,  and  to  avoid  what 
may  be  inconvenient.  It  is  peculiarly  necessary  to  be  pre- 
pared in  advance,  in  a  country  like  South  America,  which 
may  be  said  to  exist  now  in  the  same  state  in  which  it  came 
from  the  hand  of  creation.  Travelling  in  Europe  or  Asia, 
is  quite  another  son  of  affair.  Europe  may  be  traversed 
from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  in  one  or  another  kind  of 
wheel  carriage  ;  Hindustan  may  be  traversed  asleep  or 
awake,  in  a  palankeen,  without  exerting  a  muscle  ;  and  if  the 
traveller  thinks  fit,  he  may  read  sitting  or  reclined,  rest  or 
move  on,  and  is  sure  to  meet  with  population  and  subsist- 
ence in  abundance  every  where,  and  at  a  small  expencc  la 
those  countries  where  Spanish  policy  has  arrested  the 
activity  of  man,  and  palsied  his  genius,  there  are  neither 
wheel  carriages  nor  palankeens,    the   mule   is  the  general 


116  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

bearer  of  all  burdens  :  it  is  therefore  specially  necessary  to 
understand  the  prices  of  mules,  the  mode  of  obtaining  them 
for  purchase  or  hire  ;  the  kind  of  forage  to  be  procured  in 
different  parts  of  the  journey ;  the  kind  of  subsistence  or 
provisions  which  may  or  may  not  be  procured  at  different 
points  of  the  route ;  and  to  be  prepared  in  advance  where 
none  is  to  be  purchased ;  the  money  current  in  different 
parts  of  the  country,  and  the  probable  amount  requisite. 
And  to  render  all  these  things  acquirable,  where  the  language 
is  not  well  understood  by  the  traveller,  or  even  where  it  is, 
a  person,  as  a  guide,  who  understands  the  two  languages, 
and  is  really  acquainted  with  the  route,  and  the  mode  of  ob- 
taining what  is  necessary,  is  absolutely  indispensable. 

For  the  same  reason,  (that  is,  because  there  are  neither 
hotels  nor  beds,)  a  good  hammock,  and  the  best  is  always 
the  cheapest ;  the  best  in  Colombia  are  made  at  Victo- 
ria, in  the  valley  of  Aragua ;  yet,  it  may  be  more  prudent 
to  purchase  at  an  advanced  price  in  Caracas,  than  risk  dis- 
appointment at  Victoria.  So  it  is  with  mules,  the  best  kind 
are  high  priced  at  Caracas,  and  lower  priced  further  inland, 
but  they  are  not  constantly  for  sale  in  small  towns,  being  sent 
to  the  best  market  when  they  are  for  sale. 

The  traveller  in  these  countries,  if  he  passes  but  a  day's 
journey  from  the  capital  towns  or  cities,  should  not  move 
without  his  hammock.  Many  persons  affect  to  think  that 
the  traveller  is  effeminate  who  is  anxious  to  provide  for  his 
comforts  on  the  road.  I  can  subsist  on  as  plain  and  as  little 
food,  and  as  rough  cookery,  as  any  man  ;  but  if  I  can  sustain 
my  strength,  secure  a  delicious  sleep  after  fatigue,  and  snatch 
natural  pleasure  from  the  midst  of  difficulties  and  perils,  I  am 
not  the  less  able  or  willing  to  undergo  the  hardships  which 
are  unavoidable.  Too  much  care  cannot  be  bestowed  on 
the  hammock,  blanket,  saddle,  and  saddle- crupper  ;  they  arc 
objects  called  for  by  economy  and  comfort,  as  well  as  by 
health  and  security.     The  hammock  should  be  provided  with 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  117 

suitable  cords  properly  fitted,  and,  I  repeat,  the  best  kind  arc 
the  cheapest.  The  most  commodious  mode  of  carrying  the 
hammock  is  rolled  like  a  dragoon's  cloak,  and  thrust  into 
an  endless  bag  adapted  to  its  size  when  rolled,  and  the  cords 
in  the  midst  of  the  roll  ;  this  bag  keeps  the  hammock  clean, 
and,  if  there  should  be  rain,  secures  it  from  wet.  A  good 
blanket,  folded,  should  cover  the  saddle,  and  serve,  in  case 
of  rain,  as  a  romero^  or  cloak  ;  and  if  the  nights  should  be 
sharp  and  keenly  cold,  as  we  found  them  at  St.  Pedro,  onlj 
one  day's  march  from  Caracas,  and  subsequently  at  Mucha- 
chees  and  Pamplona,  the  blanket  is  an  invaluable  part  of  the 
traveller's  baggage.  The  traveller  should  make  it  a  positive 
rule  not  to  suffer  his  blanket  or  hammock  to  be  transferred 
to  the  baggage  mules  for  accommodation  ;  unavoidable  ac- 
cidents or  the  waywardness  of  the  muleteers  may  separate 
the  traveller  from  his  baggage  mules ;  in  which  case  the 
muleteer  will  not  fail  to  use  them ;  and  the  owner  may  the 
next  night  find  himself  sleeping  with  disagreeable  company, 
A  prudent  traveller  will  not  repent  of  providing  himself 
with  an  ample  oil-cloth  cloak  and  hood,  and  at  least  two  full 
capes  over  the  shoulders.  In  our  whole  route,  of  1274 
miles,  we  encountered,  out  of  shelter,  only  three  showers  ;  I 
had  anticipated  and  provided  against  this  exigency,  having 
procured  a  sufficient  quantity  of  a  good  linen  oil-cloth  from 
M'Cauley,  of  Philadelphia.  Lieutenant  Bache  preferred  to 
convert  his  oil- cloth  into  a  romero  or  poncho ^  as  it  is  called 
in  Chile  ;  it  is  no  more  than  a  square  cloth  with  an  aperture 
through  its  centre  to  admit  the  head;  one  end  hangs  in  front, 
and  the  other  behind ;  the  breadth  being  ample,  the  shoul- 
ders, arms,  and  sides,  are  better  covered  than  by  a  sleeve, 
while  the  arms  are  perfectly  free  for  any  required  motion.  It 
is  common  to  use  a  blanket  for  a  romero  by  the  natives,  but 
there  are  stuffs  of  wool,  cotton,  and  fibrous  substances,  pe- 
culiar to  the  country,  employed  this  way  ;  some  are  of  very 
tasty  colours,  striped  and  checkered ;  and,  in  some  of  the 


118  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

districts,  I  have  seen  a  kind  of  manufacture  for  romeros 
which  I  can  compare  with  no  article  which  it  so  much  re- 
sembles as  the  hair-cloth  with  which  we  cover  couches. 
But  it  was  absolutely  water-proof.  The  traveller  should  have 
a  fair  weather  or  light  chip  hat,  and  another  for  foul  weather  ; 
both  sufficiently  broad  to  shelter  the  head  and  face  from 
rain  or  sunshine.  Senora  Bolivar  was  so  kind  as  to  present 
me  a  hat  made  of  the  fibre  of  the  Cuquisias,  or  Aloe,  which 
was  so  well  made  as  to  serve  me  for  all  circumstances,  not  only 
to  Bogota,  but  thence  to  Carthagena  and  home,  in  the  worst 
weather ;  and,  in  the  hands  of  a  skilful  Indian,  it  might  be 
now  made  a  handsome  article. 

The  saddles  and  bridles  fit  for  riding  mules,  should  not  be 
such  as  are  used  in  riding  horses  :  and  the  saddlery  sent  from 
some  of  our  cities,  besides  being  ill- adapted  to  the  uses  of 
the  country,  as  far  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  them, 
were  by  no  means  calculated  to  do  credit  to  the  workmanship 
or  the  morals  of  American  manufacturers.  They  were  un- 
suitable in  pattern,  and  made  so  feeble,  where  they  should  be 
strong,  as  to  render  them  unmerchantable,  and  to  spoil  the 
market.  The  British,  more  judrcious,  obtain  information 
and  patterns,  and  adapt  the  fabrication  to  the  convenience 
and  the  use  of  the  articles ;  and  unless  the  manufacturers  of 
the  United  States  provide  suitable  articles,  they  will  have 
cause  to  complain  of  disappointment ;  which,  as  on  many 
other  occasions,  they  make  a  matter  of  reproach  to  the 
country  which  they  fail  to  abuse.  The  prices  exacted  are 
alike  enormous,  and  the  South  Americans  will,  probably, 
be  designated  as  bad  customers,  when  they  do  not  pay  fifty 
or  sixty  dollars  for  a  saddle  that  might  be  bought  in  any  of 
our  cities  for  seven  or  eight  dollars. 

The  saddle,  for  South  America,  should  be  high  pommel, 
or  peak  and  cantle,  like  the  manege  saddles  of  the  Prussian 
sciiool,  and  sometimes  mistakenly  called  hussar  saddles. 
The  nature  of  the  country,  steep  ascents  and   abrupt  de- 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  119 

scents,  render  them  not  merely  comfortable,  but  more  safe 
than  the  plain  English  fashioned  hunting  saddle.  The 
crupper  staples,  and  the  cruppers,  should  be  of  triple  the 
strength  required  on  a  level  country  ;  and  the  girths,  sur- 
cingle, and  martingal,  or  breast-band,  should  be  stout,  and 
strongly  affixed  by  firm  swivel  staples  to  the  front  of  the 
saddle-tree ;  and  spare  girths  in  the  baggage  will  not  be  re- 
pented. The  buckles  of  the  horse-equipments,  if  made 
merely  to  sell^  may  sell  too  dear,  as  they  put  human  life  to 
hazard.  The  pack,  or  cushion  of  the  saddle  for  the  horse 
of  sixteen  or  seventeen  hands  high,  with  a  broad  round  back, 
cannot  be  suitable  for  the  back  of  any,  even  the  largest  rid- 
ing mules.  Two  days*  journey  would  ruin  the  best  mule, 
with  the  horse  saddle.  The  pads,  or  cushions,  should  be 
very  full  and  well  stuffed,  so  that  the  spine  of  the  animal 
shall  not  be  touched  by  any  part  of  it.  For  the  same  rea- 
son portmanteaus,  or  even  a  pad  with  a  cloak,  cannot  be 
carried  on  the  mule,  behind  the  rider,  unless  he  rides  in  the 
Spanish  cavalry  saddle,  of  which  the  tree  sends  out  two 
limbs  behind  the  cantle,  three  or  four  inches  higher  than 
the  mule's  back  ;  we  had^one  of  those  saddles  in  our  party, 
which  would  be  a  good  pattern,  even  for  the  travellers  of 
the  United  States,  as  these  limbs  afford  an  easy  space  for  a 
light  portmanteau,  without  touching  the  animal's  back. 

The  strength  of  the  bit  and  bridle  is  alike  necessary,  for, 
although  in  riding  the  mule  in  ordinary,  on  the  plain,  or 
the  steep,  or  the  descending  declivity,  the  safest  course  of 
the  rider  is  to  hold  a  loose  rein ;  there  are  cases  in  which 
the  mule  will  require  the  pressure  of  the  bit,  and  the  rider's 
hand,  which  experience  only  can  teach ;  inefficient  means, 
in  such  circumstances,  often  involve  destruction.  The  large 
Spanish  bit  is  in  universal  use,  and,  though  of  a  contrary  opi- 
nion before  this  occasion,  I  acknowledge  my  conviction  of 
its  importance,  indeed,  of  its  indispensable  necessity.  The 
rowels  of  the  spur,  in  general  use,  are  universal,  and  prove 


120  VISIT   TO   COLOMBIA. 

to  be  the  masters  of  the  manege  ;  the  mule  is  not  obedient 
without  them :  when  satisfied  of  their  necessity,  1  mounted 
them,  and  I  found  that  it  was  not  necessary  always  to  use 
them,  as  is  required  with  our  small  rowelled  spurs,  constantly, 
with  some  horses  of  a  bad  temper.  The  attire  of  panniers, 
and  ropes  for  baggage- mules,  are  always  provided  by  those 
who  hire  out  the  mules — the  pilfering  of  curb  chains,  ropes, 
horse-halters,  spurs,  and  other  loose  articles,  are  as  much 
the  objects  of  thievery  among  muleteers,  as  among  the 
hostlers  and  jockies  of  other  countries.  The  domestic  or 
attendant  should  be  responsible  for  such  things. 

A  good  map  of  the  country,  and  the  best  itineraries  of  the 
proposed  route,  are  highly  useful.  The  best  maps  current, 
it  is  true,  are  very  deficient,  and  some  extremely  erroneous ; 
but  none  of  them  can  mislead  as  to  the  general  face  of  the 
country,  or  the  relative  positions  of  the  principal  cities,  towns, 
and  rivers. 

I  had  been  in  possession  of  much  matter  of  this  kind  be- 
fore, but  in  Caracas  I  procured  a  copy  of  an  itinerary,  which 
I  found  to  be  most  exact  and  useful ;  it  was  that  of  the  Ca- 
non of  Chile,  Jose  Cortes  Madri^da,  in  the  year  1811-12. 
He  marked  his  morning  hour  of  departure;  his  breakfiasting 
stage,  his  dining  stage,  and  where  he  slept,  and  the  computed 
distance  of  each  day's  journey  ;  which  last,  though  the  only 
uncertain  part  of  the  itinerary,  I  shall  preserve,  and  give  the 
exact  copy  in  the  appendix  No.  I.  Another  itinerary  of  a 
military  officer.  No.  II,  which  will  serve  to  compare  with  the 
first,  is  also  given  ;  as  I  am  speaking  of  itineraries,  I  shall  give 
the  route  from  Bogota  by  the  Magdalena,  No.  Ill,  with  such 
other  information  of  the  same  kind,  as  I  transcribe  my  jour- 
nal, and  such  illustrations  as  may  render  them  useful. 

The  traveller  may  find  in  Colombia,  what  is  not  unfre- 
quent  in  what  are  called  old  countries,  a  constant  contra- 
diction as  to  the  distance  between  places,  as  he  will  seldom 
find  two  whom  he  may  inquire  of  on  the  route,  who  will  agree 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  121 

within  two  or  three,  or  half  a  dozen  miles  ;  and  the  last  to 
be  trusted  in  this  particular  are  the  muleteers  generally,  and 
some  of  ihc  alcaldes,  both  of  whom  have  sometimes  an  in- 
terest in  adding  to  or  taking  away  from  the  account.  Some 
notes  of  the  various  modes  of  stating  or  estimating,  or  gues- 
sing the  distances  in  leagues,  will  be  given  in  another  place. 

The  mention  of  alcaldes  renders  it  proper  to  notice  the  re- 
lation in  which  they  stand  to  travellers.  The  title  answers  to 
the  general  term  magistrate,  but  that  particular  office  referred 
to  is  the  alcaldes  of  cities  and  towns,  whose  functions  em- 
brace local  police,  the  administration  of  justice  summarily 
in  the  lesser  districts  of  civil  administration,  and,  as  part  of 
the  duties  of  police,  the  protection  of  strangers.  It  is  to  the 
alcaldes  (where  the  place  is  not  exclusively  a  military  post) 
that  application  is  to  be  made  for  the  supply  of  mules,  and 
for  lodgings,  which  the  alcalde  is  not  bound  to  provide  in  any 
other  way  than  to  issue  his  orders  ;  and  I  have  been  told  that 
the  alcalde  is  bound  to  keep  a  registry  of  mules  within  the 
boundsof  his  jurisdiction,  and  from  these  he  orders  in  rota- 
tion the  number  required,  leaving  it  to  him  for  whose  use 
they  are,  to  agree  upon  the  compensation.  There  is  usually 
a  market  rate  or  price  per  number  of  leagues  ;  and  here,  if 
the  muleteer  and  the  alcalde  have  an  understanding,  the  route 
becomes  more  or  less  long  or  short,  as  the  traveller  appears 
to  be  uninformed.  Gil  Bias,  in  relation  to  muleteers,  is  no 
fiction ;  those  of  Spain  have  their  pendants  in  South  America, 
though  it  is  no  more  than  truth  to  say,  that  there  is  less  of 
knavery  of  that  class  among  the  alcaldes  in  Colombia  than  in 
Spain,  though  I  have  met  a  few  who  would  rival  the  worst  of 
them.  I  have  found  more  than  twenty  to  one,  fair,  honour- 
able, and  obliging  men. 

The  exigencies  of  the  revolution,  which  rendered  it  im- 
practicable  to  give  the  institutions  of  Colombia  a  new  orga- 
nization in  all  the  necessary  details,  went  no  farther  in  chang- 
ing the  municipal  and  social  forms,  than  became  indispensa- 

16 


1^2  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ble  to  the  good  order  of  society.  The  administrative  power 
retained  the  same  gradations.  Cities,  towns,  and  villages, 
which  are  the  concerns  with  which  we  have  hereto  do,  were, 
as  in  former  times,  governed,  some  by  a  miHtary  comman- 
der, othtrs  by  cabildos  or  corporations,  who  were  elective, 
and  in  which  the  alcaldes  were  chosen  by  the  cabildos  ;  some 
villages  and  towns  had  their  alcaldes,  first,  second,  third,  and 
even  a  fourth,  where  the  population  required  them. 

The  functions  of  the  alcalde  more  remarkably  resemble 
those  of  the  Cauze  in  Asia  than  our  mayor;  for,  besides  his 
authority  in  matters  of  police  and  small  affairs  of  a  pecuniary 
nature,  which  he  decides  summarily,  he  is  the  guardian  of  the 
police,  and  the  director  of  all  matters  that  are  not  exercised 
by  authorities  of  a  higher  degree,  such  as  judges  and  military 
commanders  ;  with  their  jurisdiction  he  does  not  interfere  ; 
but  all  that  they  have  not  authority  to  do,  he  has  authority  to 
perform  under  the  recognized  laws  and  customs. 

When  we  were  about  to  proceed  on  our  route,  as  pass- 
ports continued  to  be  necessary  from  the  then  state  of  war, 
we  applied  to  the  superior  power,  ayd  obtained  our  passport; 
the  next  recourse  was  to  the  alcalde ;  for  there  is  at  Ca- 
racas a  military  governor,  chief  alcalde  and  subordinate  al- 
caldes de  barrio^  or  alcaldes  of  wards. 

The  application  to  the  alcalde  specifies  the  number  of  per- 
sons, principals  and  domestics,  and  riding  mules  required, 
and  for  each  load  of  baggage,  a  mule;  the  destination  to  be 
mentioned,  and  the  time  proposed  to  set  out.  The  alcalde *s 
duty  is  to  order  mules,  and  to  see  that  they  be  provided. 
Each  alcalde  keeps  a  registry  of  the  mules  in  his  jurisdic- 
tion, which  is  of  advantage  to  the  public,  to  the  traveller, 
and  to  the  owner  of  the  mules  ;  for,  as  the  purpose  of  keep- 
ing mules  is  for  hire,  though  the  call  for  mules  may  be  oc- 
casionally an  inconvenience  to  the  owner ;  yet,  when  they 
are  required  for  travellers,  the  charge  is  usually  more  than 
when  called  forth  on  the  public  service  or  private  mercantile 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  123 

transport.  No  fee  is  paid  for  passports  under  the  republic ; 
it  was  otherwise  under  the  monarchy,  and  frequently  a  source 
of  great  vexation  and  exaction.  When  the  alcalde's  order 
issues,  the  ariero  (or  mule  owner)  presents  himself  and 
makes  his  bargain — and  the  price,  though  there  is  a  custo- 
mary price  per  number  of  leagues,  is  also  influenced  by  the 
apparent  quality,  or  the  ignorance  of  the  language,  or  any 
exigence  or  eagerness  manifested  by  the  traveller  to  get  for- 
ward. The  muleteers,  owners  and  drivers,  are  usually  as 
shrtwd,  and  sometimes  as  knavish,  as  the  itinerant  assistants 
in  other  countries. 

We  purchased  four  prime  mules  at  S160,  150,  120,  110, 
one  for  each  of  us  to  ride,  and  the  fourth  as  a  relief  mule, 
which  we  did  with  mature  advisement,  and  found,  upon  ex- 
perience, the  pecuniary  advantage.,  as  well  as  the  comfort,  in 
following  the  advice,  in  passing  the  "  antres  vast  and  de- 
serts wild"  of  the  Andes.  We  required  a  man  to  provide 
food  and  forage,  and  cook,  and,  as  the  stealing  of  mules  from 
travellers  was  not  unfrequcnt  during  the  war,  it  was  prefer- 
able to  hire  a  servant  to  take  care  of  them,  than  risk  the  loss 
of  a  mule  in  the  deserts,  remote  from  places  where  mules 
might  be,  or  not  be,  procurable.  We  procured  two  per- 
sons for  these  purposes.  As  chocolate  is  not  only  a  nutri- 
tious but  refreshing  beverage,  and  easily  prepared  after  the 
manner  of  the  country,  the  traveller  should  ascertain  the  dis- 
tance he  may  have  to  travel,  and  the  quantity  of  chocolate 
and  other  things  required  daily  for  the  required  distance  ; 
bread,  where  it  is  to  be  had  ;  poultry  and  eggs  may  be  pur- 
chased on  the  road ;  but  where  the  war  has  depopulated  ex- 
tensive districts,  and  the  forests  and  mountains  present  vast 
intervals  uninhabited  ;  the  value  of  a  guide  and  the  accuracy 
of  his  knowledge  are  beyond  price.  For  the  first  hundred 
miles,  or  from  Caracas  through  the  valley  of  Aragua,  pro- 
visions are  to  be  had  at  very  moderate  prices,  as  the  towns 
and  villages  are  numerous,  and  even  after  the  war  were  opulent, 


124  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

when  we  passed  through,  though  the  marks  of  the  deso- 
lation of  war  were  very  evident.  Fine  fruit,  particularly 
oranges,  and  sweet  bananas,  are  abundant,  wholesome,  and 
cheap ;  and  it  will  be  very  prudent,  where  they  are  plenty, 
to  provide  in  advance.  No  wine  is  to  be  had  but  in  pri- 
vate houses ;  but  we  found  no  inconvenience  from  the 
scarcity  ;  those  who  require  it  must  carry  it ;  but  the  cost 
and  damage  will  too  probably  overbalance  the  gratification 
or  use  expected.  New  milk  may  be  had  on  the  road,  but 
as  the  cows  are  never  milked  but  once  a  day,  and  the  calf 
always  attends  the  cow,  and  the  richness  of  the  pastures  ren- 
ders the  milk  not  so  mild  and  palatable  as  in  our  temperate 
climate,  it  will  be  always  prudent  to  boil  or  dilute  it  with 
water ;  but  to  use  little  in  the  warm  plains,  though  we  have 
often  taken  it  fresh  from  the  cow,  equal  in  sweetness,  and 
palatable  as  our  own  :  butter  is  not  to  be  had  but  in  the 
capital  cities.  The  edible  roots  of  the  country  are  fine,  va- 
rious, and  abundant  in  every  inhabited  place. 

The  lading  of  the  mules  is  a  very  important  consideration  ; 
if  a  mule  be  overladen,  the  traveller  is  retarded  in  his  pro- 
gress, or  the  mule  may  break  down  where  no  other  is  to 
be  had — so  that  not  only  delay  and  expense,  but  loss  of 
baggage  may  be  the  consequence.  The  usual  and  fairest 
load  required  by  the  muleteer  is  about  250  pounds  weight. 
The  best  mode  of  carrying  baggage  is  in  two  leather  trunks, 
(all  leather,  with  good  locks  and  keys) — so  that  the  weight 
may  be  equally  distributed.  The  mules  furnished  on  hire 
are  not  always  the  best,  and  it  requires  to  guard  against  this 
contingency.  An  acquaintance  with  the  language  is  of  the 
greatest  advantage,  as  well  for  obtaining  provisions,  as  for  a 
knowledge  of  the  right  road.  As  far  as  San  Carlos,  it  is  open, 
spacious,  and  well  marked  by  the  beaten  track  of  mules, 
who  concentrate  in  that  neighbourhood,  or  between  that  city 
and  Valencia,  on  the  route  to  Puerto  Cabello,  the  Valley  of 
Aragua,  or  Caracas.     After  leaving  that  city,  on  the  routes 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  125 

south-west  or  north-west,  the  country  becomes  wild,  and  the 
courses  perplexed.  A  knowledge  of  the  Umgiiage  may  ena- 
ble the  traveller  to  obtain  directions,  but  without  this  know- 
ledge, an  homhre  de  provecho^  or  purveyor,  to  procure 
subsistence  and  foragi^,  to  wait  upon  the  alcaldes,  to  guard 
against  imposition,  and  to  perform  domestic  services,  is  in- 
dispensable; a  stranger  may  very  easily,  or  almost  to  a  cer- 
tainty, go  astray,  if  he  moves  at  all.  We  had  found  a  native 
of  Caracas,  who  called  himself  Manuel,  recommended  him- 
self by  an  assurance  that  he  had  been  a  domestic  of  the  liber- 
tador's,  and  said  he  was  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  whole 
route,  that  no  man  understood  better  than  himself  the  care  of 
mules  or  horses,  and  that  he  would  ask  no  more  than  eight 
dollars  a  month,  to  which  we  agreed.  A  St.  Domingo  negro 
applied  under  the  name  of  John,  who  said  he  knew  evert/ 
thing,  and  had  been  every  where^  cooked  a  fricasee  as  well 
as  any  Frenchman,  and  spoke  Spanish,  French,  and  English, 
like  a  native.  We  found,  very  soon,  that  Manuel's  name 
was  Fincente,  and  that  John's  name  was  Pedro ;  that  neither 
of  them  had  ever  been  beyond  Truxillo  ;  but  both  turned 
out  to  be  excellent  cooks,  and  altogether  not  bad  servants. 
Pedro's  English  was  not  good,  but  his  Spanish  was  negocia- 
ble.  Their  ignorance  of  the  road  was,  by  an  accidental  oc- 
currence, rendered  to  us  unnecessary,  as  will  be  seen  on  our 
leaving  Valencia. 

Although  we  had  no  cause  to  complain  of  danger  or  mo- 
lestation on  the  whole  route,  we  were  advised,  and  indeed  I 
had  anticipated  the  advice,  to  go  armed  ;  and  to  assume  a 
military  appearance,  which,  however,  had  its  inconveniences. 
The  state  of  war  had  sent  abroad  many  vagabonds,  but  as 
lieutenant  Bache  and  myself,  and  our  domestics,  wore  sabres, 
and  we  had  good  pistols  in  display,  and  gained  an  auxiliary 
on  the  way,  probably  our  state  of  preparation  may  not  have 
been  useless. 


Ig6  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  mules  are  unladen  whenever  the  traveller  halts  to  dine 
or  sleep ;  if  in  the  forest,  on  the  paramo,  the  plains,  or  tht  side 
of  a  rivulet,  and  the  country  is  every  where  exuberantly 
watered,  the  servant  in  charge  of  the  mules  forms  them 
into  a  circle,  and  each  mule  must  have  a  strong  halter  for  the 
purpose.  The  forage  is  placed  before  them,  and  the  fire  is 
made  and  the  food  prepared  the  while.  A  trunk  formed 
our  table,  and  others  formed  our  chairs,  and  in  this  wa}  we 
have  partaken  of  a  most  delightful  breakfast,  dinner,  or  sup- 
per ;  sometimes,  in  the  warmer  regions,  hangmg  our  ham- 
mocks on  the  trees  of  the  forest,  and  taking  a  sweet  sleep  in 
the  pure  air  and  the  shade  of  the  trees.  Our  feast,  on  such 
occasions,  consisted  of  poultry  and  eggs,  cooked  according 
to  the  judicious  caprices  of  our  cocinero.  Eggs  and  poul- 
try are  standing  articles — sometime^  we  purchased  a  kid ; 
one  of  our  people  skinned,  and  displayed  it ;  what  was  not 
wanted  for  the  instant  was  tied,  exposed  to  the  open  air,  and 
carried  in  that  manner  untainted,  there  being  none  of  those 
flies  which  injure  meat  in  other  climates.  Vessels  of  more 
than  a  pint  measure  are  common  in  the  country  for  prepar- 
ing chocolate,  but  it  would  be  prudent  to  be  provided  with 
good  tin  vessels,  knives,  forks,  and  spoons ;  all  that  1  had 
proposed  to  provide  was  not  completed — I  had  committed 
to  a  friend  the  charge  of  this  provision  of  these  conveniencies, 
but  my  friend,  as  he  afterwards  with  great  simplicity  ac- 
knowledged, had  not  provided  knives,  forks,  or  spoons,  be- 
cause he  concluded  that  wherever  meat  or  soup  were  to  be 
had,  those  instruments  would  naturally  be  found  also ;  the 
earthen  platter  of  the  country,  and  the  cooking  utensils  of 
red  pottery,  supplied  the  place  of  utensils  more  refined ;  and 
the  calabash  shell  furnished  us  with  turtumas^  of  various 
sizes  for  water-cups,  soup-basons,  milk-cups,  and  even 
substitutes  for  spoons ;  they  served  to  sip  our  chocolate  or 
coffee  in  the  midst  of  the  forests,  our  lemonade  in  the  mid- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  127 

day,  and  our  punch  when  no  better  beverage  was  to  be  had 
but  the  raw  milk  of  the  paramos ;  and  good  wine,  when  it 
could  be  had,  lost  none  of  its  flavour  by  being  drank  out  of 
a  calabash  cup. 

The  traveller  will  often  have  use  for  a  good  sharp  toma- 
hawk, which  may  be  hung  in  an  eye- strap  at  the  bow  of  the 
saddle ;  if  he  is  under  the  necessity  of  sleeping  in  the  woods, 
or  making  a  fire  for  the  cookery  ;  or  if  he  wishes  to  hang 
his  hammock  conveniently  for  a  fellow-traveller,  or  near  his 
mules,  the  tomahawk  saves  time  as  well  as  promotes  com- 
fort. A  flint  and  tinder-box,  and  steel,  with  matches,  serve 
the  same  purposes  of  facility  and  efficiency  in  travelling  ac- 
commodation, and  without  them  he  may  go  to  his  hammock 
supperless,  or  suffer  privation  in  addition  to  fatigue. 

The  13th  of  November  was  devoted  to  visiting  and  taking 
leave  of  our  kind  friends,  completing  our  equipments,  and 
preparing  for  our  departure  on  the  follovv'ing  morning. 


128 


CHAPTER  IX. 

■Leave  Caracas  on  the  fourteenth  of  November — friendly  cavalcade — bank  of 
the  Guayra — venerable  family  of  Toro — Antimano — pass  La  Vieja — reach 
Las  Juntas-r-the  junction  of  the  San  Pedro  and  Macaro  with  the  Guayra — 
halt  at  &  pulpureia — first  taste  of  domestic  cookery — country  articles — a  posada 
or  tavern  for  muleteers — the  social  economy — a  refresco — ordered  without 
garlic  in  vain — moderate  charges — refresco  a  fine  subject  of  fun  at  parting— 
the  heights  of  Higuerota — Bonavista — view  of  Caracas — excavated  road — a 
fine  specimen  of  asbestos — General  Paez  and  suite — meet  young  troops — 
above  the  clouds — appearance — Bolivar  the  theme  of  songs  every  where — 
laborious  and  dangerous  descent — forsake  the  clouds,  and  see  the  verdant 
earth — the  deep  blue  canopy  appears — warmer  atmosphere — reach  San  Pedro 
— adventures  there — piercing  cold  night— Sacristy  of  the  Church — hang  up 
our  hammocks  —effigy  of  the  virgin — no  disturbance  all  night — moved  through 
Loxas — more  soldiers — characteristics  of — Cuquisias — CoDsejo—  halt  to  refresh 
— the  river  Tuy,  its  course.— Valley  of  Aragua — appearances— lodged — order 
of  our  establishment  -hospitahty — hammocks  how  hung— moved  early  the 
sixteenth— appearance  of  the  country — flowering  shrubs — mountain  range — 
peculiar  features  of — hmpid  rills. — San  Mateo.  -Estate  of  the  President  Bol- 
ivar— fine  sugar-mill,  and  plantation — halt  there — entertained. 

Our  departure  on  the  morning  of  the  fourteenth  had  col- 
lected, according  to  the  usage  of  the  country,  a  numerous 
cavalcade  of  our  friends,  with  the  intention  of  escorting  us 
out  of  town,  as  had  been  done  at  our  coming.  The  route 
lies  over  the  Garaguata,  by  the  ample  bridge  before  noticed, 
and  leads  through  a  spacious  street  in  the  quarter  of  St. 
Juan,  to  a  considerable  distance  beyond  the  regular  line  of 
the  streets  ;  the  road  had  been  paved  three  or  four  miles  be- 
yond the  inhabited  range,  and  had  a  gradual  ascent ;  but 
the  advantage  of  good  paving  was  here  manifest,  in  the  ex- 
cavation of  the  road  by  rains,  where  the  pavement  had  been 
broken  up  ;  the  firm  pavement  standing  on  its  first  surface  a 
foot  or  eighteen  inches  above  the  surface  now  washed  away, 
which  had  been  formerly  a  part  of  the  same  causeway.  We 
soon  reached  the  plunging  current  of  the  Garaguata,  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  129 

neighbourhood  of  Antimano,  seven  miles  from  Caracas,  em- 
bosomed in  verdant  hills,  and  rich  in  its  tillage  ;  after  a  tem- 
porary halt,  to  pay  our  respects  to  the  venerable  general  To- 
ro  and  his  family,  who  resided  there,  we  soon  crossed 
the  Guayra,  leaving  the  small  hamlet  of  La  Vega  on  our 
right,  as  we  entered  the  little  valley  of  Antimano ;  and 
reached  Las  Juntas,  or  the  junction  ;  the  little  river  Macaro, 
and  the  less  rivulet  of  San  Pedro,  here  uniting  with  the  gur- 
gling Guayra,  plunging  in  its  descent  over  a  bed  of  small 
rocks,  and  bounded  by  many  rocks  of  more  magnitude. 
Las  Juntas  is  about  twelve  miles  from  Caracas,  somewhat 
elevated  above  the  valley  ;  there  are  but  a  few  houses,  the 
principal  of  which  is  a  pulpureia^  literally  a  huckster-shop^  in 
which  the  ordinary  articles  of  vinegar,  oil,  candles,  lard, 
seeds,  and  garlic,  are  sold,  and  where  we  had  our  first  spe- 
cimen of  the  entertainment,  cookery,  and  guarapa^  with 
which  we  were  to  be  thenceforward  regaled  ;  for  there  was  a 
posada  or  country  tavern  contiguous,  or  rather  part  of  the 
pulpureia.  Here  our  friends  alighted  about  nine  o'clock. 
Croupes  of  muleteers  and  mules  were  busy  in  taking  their 
refresco^  and  I  had  much  amusement  in  witnessing  the  cu- 
riosity and  wonder  of  my  young  fellow- travellers,  and  I  shall 
describe,  once  for  all,  the  interior,  the  entertainment,  and 
the  accommodations  of  a  pulpureia  and  a  posada ;  for  the 
manners  and  entertainment  at  this  place,  so  near  the  city, 
was  such  as  prevails  among  the  most  distant  population. 

The  establishment  consisted  of  a  long  thatched  or  tiled  shed, 
parallel  with  the  road  ;  one  half  of  the  front  was  open  to  man 
and  beast,  the  other  half  presented  a  long  counter,  upon  which 
were  displayed,  as  the  principal  commodity,  a  multitude  of 
ropes  of  garlic,  strings  of  sausages,  and  puddings  of  formida- 
ble magnitude,  and  through  their  thin  transparent  coats  re- 
vealing the  excellencies  of  the  fat  and  the  lean  pork,  and 
the  garlic,  of  which  they  were  fashioned  out  in  nearly  equal 
quantities ;   they  were  rather  dusky  resemblances  of  the 

17 


130  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

columns  of  the  Capitol,  in  the  variety  of  their  shades  ;  coils 
of  Tajo,  that  is  ropes  of  dried  beef,  concerning  which  I  shall 
speak  hereafter  ;  tallow  candles  hung  against  the  wall ;  and 
the  other  merchandize  were  disposed,  without  much  regard 
to  shew  or  order,  on  massy  shelves.  Tht  pulpero  was  em- 
ployed very  busily  in  serving  his  rapid  succession  of  cus- 
tomers, while  an  assistie?ite,  stationed  at  a  large  jar  of  some 
twenty  gallons  measure,  served  out  to  his  class  of  customers 
a  liquid  which  my  turn  had  not  yet  come  to  taste  ;  it  was 
Guarapa,  and  when  I  come  to  relate  how  partial  I  came  to 
be  to  this  fermented  liquor  (when  nothing  else  could  be 
had),  the  future  traveller  may  anticipate,  however  deli- 
cate his  palate  or  choice  in  his  liquors,  that  he  will  cer- 
tainly find  himself  in  a  position  to  render  Guarapa  desira- 
ble. 

Our  friends,  resolving  to  enjoy  the  first  effects  of  the  fine 
light  air,  into  which  we  had  ascended,  ordered  a  refresco  for 
us  and  company  ;  and,  desirous  of  partaking  of  the  good 
things  of  the  new  world,  gravely  directed  it  should  be  the 
best,  and  without  garlic.  I  suppose  my  articulation  rendered 
my  injunctions  unintelligible,  for  we  were  shewn  into 
what  may  be  called  a  room,  because  there  was  a  space  of 
about  seven  feet  by  six  ;  a  sort  of  old  door  on  a  truck  about 
four  feet  from  the  floor,  which  was  intended  for  the  table ; 
there  was  only  one  chair,  and  that  had  lost  half  a  leg,  per- 
haps in  the  war ;  a  large  wooden  dish  was  placed  on  the  ta- 
ble, as  I  may  call  it ;  some  of  us  contrived  means  to  place 
ourselves  in  a  position  for  the  attack  on  the  salt  pork  junks, 
from  which  issued  vapour  and  perfume  of  garlic,  quite 
enough  to  satisfy  curiosity.  I  tasted  it,  and  it  was  actually 
%vell  cured  with  salt,  and  if  the  dish  had  been  something,  to 
appearance,  cleaner,  and  the  garlic  dispensed  with,  I  could 
have  made  a  good  breakfast  of  it.  Finding  that  chocolate 
and  some  eggs  could  be  had  in  the  pulpureia,  and  some 
Caracas  bread,  this  I  preferred  to  the  casava,  which   was 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  131 

brought  to  table  in  a  pile,  with  some  cups  of  tolerable  Ca- 
talonia, we  continued  to  finish  our  refresco — without  very 
much  reducing  the  contents  of  the  wooden  dish. 

If  the  table  was  not  covered  with  delicacies,  the  charge 
was  moderate  ;  and  we  prepared  to  separate  from  our  friends, 
who  partook  with  us  in  the  pleasure,  and  the  fun  produced 
at  our  feast.  We  mounted,  and  pursued  our  way  up 
the  winding  ravine,  which  forms  the  road  to  the  mountain 
of  Higuerota,  and  reached  Buenavista,  said  to  be  five  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  ocean,  from  whence  we  had  a  delightful 
view  of  Caracas.  The  morning  was  charming,  and  luxuri- 
antly refreshing ;  and  we  frequently  turned  round  to  take  a 
last  look  at  a  city  where  we  had  found  so  many  friends,  parta- 
ken of  so  much  kindness  and  hospitality  ;  and  winding  our 
way,  indicated  by  o.ur  silence  the  emotions  and  anticipations 
of  the  past  and  the  future.  \ 

The  ascent  had  been  here  graduated  by  labour  into  a 
spacious  road,  of  sixty  feet  broad,  the  sides,  impending  banks 
of  tarth.  Lieut.  Bache  discovered  some  specimens  oi  asbes- 
tos of  considerable  length  of  fibre,  which  was  in  great  abun- 
dance. Soon  afterwards  a  number  of  youths  with  musquets 
met  us  as  we  descended  the  mountain  ;  and  soon  after  a 
general  officer  and  his  suite,  dashing  desperately  down 
the  steep  descent ;  it  was  general  Paez,  who  simply  touched 
his  hat  to  us  without  halting.  We  soon  after  met  a  numerous 
detachment  of  soldiers,  marching  without  order  towards 
Caracas ;  and  from  a  sub-officer,  whom  I  addressed,  learned 
who  they  were  that  parsed  us,  and  that  the  troops  he  was 
with,  were  principally  recruits  marching  to  the  depot ;  and 
with  more  than  usual  communicativeness,  observed  that  the 
general  was  not  going  to  Caracas  with  troops  for  nothing. 

We  were  soon  involved  in  a  thick  mist,  which  to  the 
first  seeming  had  fallen  upon  us,  but  in  fact  the  clouds  were 
suspended  in  an  horizontal  range,  that  left  an  unclouded  space 
beneath,  out  of  which  we  ascended,  and  entered  the  stratum 


132  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  clouds  ;  from  which  we  very  soon  emerged  again  into  a 
bright  sun,  and,  while  our  heads  appeared  to  reach  above 
the  clouds,  our  bodies  were  yet  involved  in  the  shade. 
This  moment  of  immersion  presented  a  most  sublime  spec- 
tacle ;  we  seemed  to  stand  upon  an  island  in  a  vast,  but 
tranquil  ocean ;  no  part  of  the  country  was  visible  but  the 
summit  of  the  long  ridge  along  which  we  travelled  ;  and  the 
sides  of  its  really  steep  precipices  aj)peared  to  be  but  the 
shores  of  the  sea;  while  our  course  above  the  horizon  of  that 
sea,  was  in  a  bright  but  not  offensive  light.  The  ridges  of 
Los  Teques,  which  border  on,  and  separate  this  ridge  from 
the  Caribbean  sea, were  not  discernible,  though  unquestionably 
higher  than  the  upper  surface  of  this  cloudy  horizon  ;  wc 
passed  a  posada,  where  muleteers  were  carousing,  and  the 
name  of  Bolivar  was,  as  usual,  the  burden  of  their  song. 

Having  passed  the  summit,  and  commenced  our  descent, 
we  now  seemed  to  enter  a  veil  of  vapour,  which  continued 
to  involve  us  a  considerable  way  down.  The  road  on  the 
summit  was  a  level  well- beaten  track,  our  route  now  was 
through  a  rugged  ravine,  the  surface,  partly  covered  with  a 
rubble  of  angular  stones ;  the  earth,  which  was  a  grey  gritty 
clay,  had  been  washed  away,  and  knolls  of  a  more  adhesive 
yellow  earth  were  left  standing  in  the  road  ;  which  rendered  the 
descent  not  only  fatiguing  but  dangerous,  and  I  found  it 
it  prudent,  in  passing  some  of  those  knolls,  to  throw  my- 
self off  my  mule,  rather  than  risque  worse  consequences, 
which  I  accomplished  without  any  unpleasantness  besides. 

We  had  now  descended  below  the  stratum  of  clouds  once 
more,  and  could  enjoy,  with  great  satisfaction,  the  richly 
verdant  country,  now  and  then  illuminated  by  a  sunbeam 
breaking  through  the  clouds.  The  vapour  on  a  sudden 
cleared  entirely  away,  and  the  deep  blue  canopy  was  unspot- 
ted,  but  the  atmosphere  became  warmer  with  the  sunbeams, 
and  the  sierra  stood  in  dark  sublimity,  on  our  right,  ranging 
from  west  to  east ;  and  the  mountains  we  had  passed  seem- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  133 

ed  to  turn  their  backs  upon  the  sun,  and  fling  their  long  sha- 
dows obhquely  across  the  valley. 

We  had  sauntered  above  the  clouds  without  any  other 
thoughts  than  those  which  were  produced  by  the  grandeur 
and  beauty  of  the  scenes  before  us ;  but  the  difficulties  of  the 
descent  retarded  us  so  much,  that  it  was  an  hour  after  night 
set  in  before  we  gained  the  brow  of  the  deep  valley  of  San 
Pedro,  computed  to  be  about  thirty  miles  from  Caraccas, 
We  had  here  some  new  experience  of  the  importance  of 
good  servants.  Vincente,  being  a  native  of  the  country,  was 
dispatched  in  advance  to  seek  the  alcalde^  procure  accom- 
modations, and  refreshments.  This  valley,  though  very  deep, 
has  its  line  of  direction  apparently  from  north  to  south,  and 
a  piercing  cold  air  passed  through  it,  which  we  felt  the  more, 
as  we  were  much  fatigued,  hungry,  and  in  need  of  repose. 
Having  descended  to  the  village,  Pedro  found  a  posada,^ 
which  we  entered,  and  there  found  that  Vincente  had  ordered 
a  supper :  two  wooden  dishes  were  laid  on  a  table  containing 
some  rank  sausages,  two  cold  roast  fowls,  one  of  which  had 
been  wm^ec^  by  some  preceding  sharp-shooter ;  some  coarse 
bread,  and  two  bottles  of  muddy  Catalonia  wine.  The  in- 
variable fragrance  of  Spanish  cookery  was  not  yet  so  fami- 
liar as  to  find  acceptance,  even  with  keen  appetites ;  as 
before,  we  shifted  with  the  bread  and  bad  wine,  which,  as  a 
substitute  for  the  dead  stock,  was  to  us  as  welcome  as  Bur- 
gundy. We  however  obtained  some  chocolate,  and  were  as 
content  as  if  our  entertainment  had  been  luxurious. 

Vincente  had  not  succeeded  in  finding  the  alcalde  ;  but 
Pedro  had  obtained  some  bundles  of  young  sugar  cane, 
which  came  from  the  w^arm  valleys,  and  is  the  common  food 
of  mules,  as  barley  is  the  forage  of  the  cooler  regions,  as  well 
as  molochay  that  is,  the  stalks  of  maize  in  that  state  before  they 
shoot  out  ears.     The  maize  in  grain  is  also  given  for  food. 

Vincente  at  length  returned  with  an  order  for  quarters,  and 
it  was  no  other  than  the  sacristy  of  the  village  church,  which 


13^  VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA. 

we  had  left  half  a  mile  above  the  village  as  we  descended. 
The  domestics  having  procured  a  torch,  we  soon  entered  the 
churchyard,  which,  under  the  circumstances  of  novelty  in 
which  we  were,  had  a  strange  and  ludicrous  appearance.  Our 
baggage  mules,  with  a  torch,  led  the  way,  we  followed  in 
Indian  file,  the  lieutenant  first,  Elizabeth  next,  and  I  brought 
up  the  rear  ;  another  torch  came  soon  after.  The  piety  of  the 
concerned  in  the  church  had  placed  on  the  stone  pillars  of 
the  fence  which  surrounded  the  place  a  number  of  human 
skulls  ;  the  sacristy  stood  at  the  north  or  extreme  end,  and 
thus  we  passed  to  our  appointed  quarters.  The  sacristy  was 
about  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  twelve  or  thirteen  in  breadth, 
and  adjacent  was  another  smaller  room  ;  we  hung  up  our 
three  hammocks  for  the  first  time  here,  and  Elizabeth's  ham- 
mock  being  placed  in  the  middle,  our  two  domestics,  and 
the  muleteer  who  was  attached  to  the  baggage  mules,  occu- 
pied a  corridor,  where  they  slept  on  cow-hides,  having  made 
a  fire  in  front  as  a  security  for  the  mules,  for  which  forage 
had  been  provided  for  the  night.  The  cold  during  this  night 
was  intense,  notxvithstandmg  a  figure  of  the  Virgin,  large  as 
life,  but  rather  ordinary  in  costume,  stood  at  the  end  of  the 
chamber  in  which  we  slept. 

It  was  our  purpose  to  move  before  five  in  the  morning  of 
the  15lh,  but  we  could  not  get  the  mules  laden  at  that  time, 
and  having  in  the  mean  while  procured  some  chocolate  for  our 
road  stock,  we  moved  off  about  seven  o'clock,  ascended  the 
mountain  of  Cuquisias,  passing  through  the  village  of  Loxas 
v^ithout  halting ;  ascended  through  another  water- worn  ravine, 
and  were  passed  by  about  two  hundred  soldiers  straggling 
slowly  towards  Caracas,  the  greater  portion  of  whom  appear- 
ed to  be  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  years  old,  but  full  of  heed- 
less gaiety.  Their  cheerfulness  and  alacrity  surprized  me  ; 
the  muskets  they  carried  were  of  the  London  Tower  pattern, 
and  must  have  weighednine  or  ten  pounds  ;  they  wore  cross 
belts,  cartridge  boxes,  and  bayonets;  a  leather  japanned  cap,  a 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  135 

shirt  and  pantaloons  of  oznaburgs,  and  a  jacket  of  duck  or 
Russia,  which  once  had  coloured  facings.  They  had  none 
of  them  shoes,  but  several  wore  a  sort  of  sandal  called  pa- 
regattas.  About  two  miles  farther  west,  where  there  was  a 
level  road,  we  met  a  corps  of  about  the  same  number  march- 
ing in  good  order  in  double  files  ;  and  after  them,  at  various 
distances,  several  women,  some  on  foot,  and  some  mounted 
with  the  military  accompaniments  for  cooking,  and  as  usual, 
young  children.  We  entered  Cuquizias  at  half  past  ten,  and 
here  took  some  of  the  country  beverage  called  chichuy  and 
eat  a  luncheon  from  our  own  stock. 

The  village  of  Cuquizias  consists  of  not  more  than  a  dozen 
cottages,  scattered  on  the  ridge  which  it  occupies ;  the  sum- 
mit is  prolonged  in  a  southwest  and  north-east  direction, 
and  is  no  where  more  than  100  to  150  yards  in  breadth; 
the  sides  are  steep  and  precipitous — the  plains,  on  each 
side,  present  the  most  exquisite  pictures  of  nature ;  di- 
versified by  cultivation,  and  hamlets  scattered  at  unequal 
distances.  We  reached  Consejo,  at  the  foot  of  Cuquizias, 
at  twenty-five  minutes  past  one,  and  the  heat  of  the  day  in- 
duced us  to  halt  and  refresh  there — as  we  were  now  within 
a  short  distance  of  several  towns.  We  halted  at  a  well-or- 
dered pulpureia,  where  there  was  an  active  traffic  in  pur- 
chase and  sale  ;  I  slung  up  my  hammock,  at  the  invitation 
of  the  hospitable  pulpero,  in  the  spacious  store,  which  ap- 
peared to  be  a  central  resort  from  the  surrounding  country. 
He  was  an  obliging  man,  he  presented  my  duughter  some 
excellent  bananas  and  oranges ;  and,  with  some  wine,  we 
found  ourselves,  by  three  o'clock,  fit  to  march.  The  pul- 
pero would  not  accept  any  remuneration  ;  he  was  frank,  po- 
lite, and  communicative,  and,  on  being  informed  we  were 
North  Americans,  his  fine  black  eyes  appeared  to  scintillate — 
he  took  some  pains  to  direct  us,  and  appeared  much  inte- 
rested in  us. 


136  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  river  Tuy  passes  under  a  rude  wooden  bridge,  close  to 
the  pulpureia  ;  a  hmpid  stream,  having  its  source  in  the  valley 
of  San  Pedro,  about  thirty  feet  broad,  winds  from  the  north- 
east, chattering  over  its  pebbled  bed ;  and,  turning  oft  be- 
fore us  to  the  west,  holds  its  way  at  the  foot  of  the  group  of 
Cuquizias,  which  here  presents  a  receding  slope  on  the  south 
side  of  the  luxuriant  valley  which  it  irrip;ates,  and  gives 
life,  and  beauty,  and  vigor  to  the  plantations  of  sugar-cane, 
that  occupy  its  sides ;  when  again  winding  round  the  base 
of  this  group  of  these  ever-green  mountains,  takes  a  direction 
south,  variably  south-east,  and  meandering  through  the  val- 
leys of  Tocata,  Cura,  Sabanade  Ocumare,  St.  Lucia,  and  The- 
resa, unites  the  volume  of  its  accumulating  waters  witJi  the 
Guayra ;  and  affords,  among  the  other  benefits  of  its  beauti- 
ful stream,  water  sufficient  for  the  navigation  of  small  boats, 
upon  which  the  excellent  cacao,  coffee,  sugar,  and  other  pro- 
ductions of  the  course  which  it  fertilizes,  are  transported  to 
the  neighbourhood  of  Cape  Codera,  and  is  by  light  craft 
thence  diffused  along  the  coast  east  and  west,  where  cargoes 
are  made  up.  The  Tuy,  and  the  Tuyco,  which  falls  into 
the  Gulf  of  Triste,  west  of  Puerto  Cabellp,  are  the  only  rivers 
between  Barbaruta,  west  of  Puerto  Cabello,  and  the  Yara- 
cuy,  in  Cumana,  that  are  navigable.  The  Tuy  is  susceptible 
of  considerable  improvement,  by  the  mere  application  of  ma- 
nual labour  to  the  removal  of  the  obstructions  formed  by 
the  accumulations  of  forest  trees,  which  have  been  deposit- 
ed by  floods,  and  which  produce  most  pernicious  inunda- 
tions,  in  seasons  when  the  rains  are  more  than  usually  heavy 
in  the  mountains,  whose  waters  are  concentrated  in  its  mean- 
dering bed.  The  Spanish  authorities,  in  1803,  caused  Pe- 
dro Caranga,  a  skilful  engineer,  to  make  a  survey  and  report 
on  the  practicability  of  improving  the  Tuy,  with  a  view  to 
revenue,  by  preventing  those  desolations  by  flood,  which 
repeatedly  destroyed  many  rich  plantations.  His  report  shew- 
ed, not  only  the  greater  advantages,  but  the  little  expense  or 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  137 

difficulty  required  to  accomplish  it ;  but  the  Caracas  influ- 
ence, calculating  that  they  must  be  ruined,  if  the  adjacent 
valleys  prospered,  the  affair  was  buried  in  the  archives,  until 
a  more  generous  and  wise  judgment  was  directed  to  it  since 
the  revolution ;  believing  that  the  improvement  and  enrich- 
ment of  any  part  of  the  same  country  must,  under  a  liberal 
system  of  government,  benefit  the  whole,  it  continues  to  be 
one  of  the  objects  upon  which  the  public  providence  will 
act,  now  that  peace  and  independence  admit  the  faculties  of 
the  republic  to  be  taken  from  war  and  directed  to  economy. 
The  Tuy  forms  the  line  of  separation  from  the  valley  of  Ara- 
gua  and  the  road  lying  on  its  right  bank,  until  it  suddenly 
winds  off*  to  the  south  within  a  few  miles  of  Victoria.  From 
my  own  observations,  I  believe  the  Tuy  and  lake  of  Valen- 
cia may  be  united  and  rendered  navigable. 

Our  mules  had  abundance  of  fodder,  and,  after  a  hearty 
repast  of  molocha^  sweetened  off"  their  meal  with  the  most 
delicate  green  sugar  canes,  and  on  this,  as  on  many  other  oc- 
casions, we  found  the  benefits  of  such  good  provender  in  the 
proportionate  alacrity  of  our  mules. 

This  part  of  the  valley  of  Aragua  presented  a  difl'erent  as- 
pect from  that  of  the  city  of  Caracas — the  space  was  not  here 
a  uniformly  flat  extensive  plain,  but  consisted  of  what  we 
should  call  rolling  ground,  hills  and  dales,  in  which  light  and 
shade  gave  infinite  diversity  of  field  and  fruit,  deep  and  dark 
verdure  relieved  the  foreground,  and  the  enamelled  leaves 
of  numerous  plants  cast  forth  a  tremulous  light,  giving 
the  whole  that  kind  of  effect  which  the  bright  tints  of  Chi- 
nese pictures  yield,  while  the  receding  shade  of  the  hills  in 
the  distance,  south-east  and  south,  presented  a  line  which 
appeared  orderly,  well  defined,  and  unbroken ;  but  this  was 
the  illusion  of  distance  and  indistinctness ;  we  had  in  a  few 
days  after  a  demonstration  both  of  the  enormous  elevation 
and  broken  texture  of  these  spurs  of  the  Cordillera,  which 

18 


138  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

appeared  as  airy  and  light  as  the  lace  on  a  lady's  morning 
cap. 

After  half  an  hour's  ride  along  the  brink  of  the  pebbled 
bed  of  the  Tuy,  it  disappeared  in  the  opening  of  an  appa- 
rently narrow  chasm  ;  but  our  route  continued  nearly  a  dead 
level.  Sugar,  indigo,  maize,  and  cacao  plantations,  and 
vast  fields  of  maize  covered  all  within  the  range  of  our  ob- 
servation ;  cultivation  was  both  active  and  prosperous, 
and,  did  not  a  brighter  sky  and  the  presence  of  tropical 
plants  arrest  the  impression,  we  might  suppose  ourselves  in 
Pennsylvania  at  harvest  time. 

It  was  half  past  five,  and  being  recommended  by  a  friend 
to  spend  a  day  with  an  officer  resident  at  Victoria,  we  sent 
Vincent  forward,  who  soon  found  the  place ;  the  officer 
however  had  gone  on  a  visit  to  Achaguas,  a  kind  of  Mont- 
pelier  ;  but  the  house-keeper,  on  presenting  ourselves,  threw 
open  the  doors,  prayed  us  to  alight  and  walk  in,  and  without 
waiting  for  an  answer,  directed  the  servants  to  the  coral^  and 
how  to  provide  forage.  The  coral  is  simply  a  yard  or  en- 
closure for  horses,  mules,  or  other  animals,  and,  as  there  is  no 
ingress  or  egress  from  any  house,  but  through  the  one  gate, 
the  coral  comes  within  the  domestic  precincts,  and  animals 
are  kept  without  danger  of  going  or  being  led  astray. 

We  had  entered  Victoria  by  the  Calle  de  Colombia,  which 
lies  north  and  south  ;  it  is  the  main  street.  The  external 
appearance  of  the  houses  is  cleanly,  neat,  and  handsome ; 
though  there  are  none  of  more  than  one  story,  they  are  lofty 
and  spacious,  as  is  most  suitable  in  a  warm  climate.  The 
white-washing  outside  and  inside  I  found  to  be  here  a  stated 
periodical  practice;  and  there  were  numerous  shops,  in 
which,  like  the  stores  in  our  interior,  were  exhibited  and 
sold  all  sorts  of  commodities,  food,  raiment,  and  frippery. 

We  had  already  found  it  expedient,  though  small  as  our 
corps  was,  to  distribute  and  assign  duties,  so  that  no  excuse 
for  neglects  should  be  shifted  ;  to  Vincent  was  assigned,  as  a 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  139 

native,  and  having  something  of  personal  vanity  about  him,  to 
be  our  agent  with  the  alcaldes,  in  the  business  of  mules, 
quarters,  and  whatever  appertained  to  him.  To  Pedro  was  as- 
signed the  purveyorship  and  cookery.  The  first  step  in  quar- 
ters was  to  select  the  positions  for  our  hammocks,  so  that 
Elizabeth  should  have  the  most  suitable  place,  and  ours  be  so 
contiguous  as  to  leave  no  cause  of  apprehension.  After  the 
hanging  of  the  hammocks,  the  standing  order  was  chocolate 
immediately,  and  as  it  is  consumed  by  all  descriptions,  and 
made  up  in  balls  ready  sweetened,  the  operation  does  not 
require  more  than  five  minutes,  as  a  single  boiling  with  a 
due  agitation  in  the  process  is  sufficient.  We  therefore  took 
care  to  be  provided  against  any  scarcity  that  might  happen 
in  our  route  ;  but  the  trusty  domestic  had  acted  in  the  way 
I  presume  her  master,  Major  M'Laughlin,  was  accustomed 
to  do ;  chocolate  was  presented  to  us  before  Pedro  could 
provide  his  boilers.  That  we  should  not  tax  the  civility  of 
the  domestic  in  her  master's  absence,  we  had  directed  Pedro 
to  prepare  a  good  ragout  of  fowls,  and  no  one  certainly 
could  do  it  better ;  but  the  domestic  appeared  to  think  her- 
self outwitted,  perhaps  her  services  disparaged,  and  resolved 
to  be  even  with  the  cook,  by  laying  some  ready  prepared 
rice-milk,  eggs,  and  wheaten  bread,  with  some  decanters  of 
excellent  wine  on  the  table.  These  little  incidents  are  given, 
not  because  they  are  particularly  important,  but  it  is  because 
they  indicate  the  character  and  manners  of  society.  Eggs 
and  omelets,  spinach  and  other  vegetables,  entered  into  the 
routine  of  our  travelling  fare  ;  and  sometimes  mutton,  kid, 
and  very  well  cured  salt  pork,  made  a  further  variety.  It 
may  be  proper  in  this  place  to  notice  a  particular  that  might 
not  be  anticipated  by  a  stranger.  In  building  houses,  where 
the  chmate  is  warm,  and  hammocks  the  most  convenient  and 
comfortable  mode  of  going  to  rest,  stout  iron  rings  are  af- 
fixed in  an  eye  bolt  or  swivel,  about  ten  feet  from  the  ground 
on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  sleeping-rooms ;  cords  for  sling- 


140  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ing  are  usually  purchased  with  the  hammock  ;  and,  as  there 
is  a  little  knavery  in  all  trades,  there  is  some  skill  required 
in  choosing  such  cords,  and  it  is  a  part  of  the  knavery  of 
muleteers  and  others,  to  appropriate  such  cords,  if  care  be 
not  taken  in  putting  up  the  hammock  to  roll  it  firm,  and 
place  the  cords  in  the  inside.  The  hammock  usually  hangs, 
when  occupied,  about  three  or  four  feet  from  the  floor ; 
higher  according  to  inclination.  Certainly,  in  a  climate 
where  acute  cold  is  unknown,  no  bed  is  so  comfortable  as  a 
hammock  after  a  few  days  habitude. 

We  were  mounted  and  on  our  march,  before  six  o'clock 
on  the  15th,  in  the  splendid  valley  of  Aragua ;  the  space  oc- 
cupied by  the  whole  range  of  vision  appeared  a  level  plain, 
here  and  there  diversified  by  clumps  of  lofty  trees,  a  fantas- 
tic thicket  clothed  in  flowers  of  brilliant  tints,  but  particu- 
larly the  morning  glory ^  which,  in  different  places,  assumed 
different  colours,  so  that  I  have  seen  in  some  of  the  coffee 
plantations  desolated  by  the  Spaniards,  the  elegant  cones 
that  had  escaped,  covered  with  this  beautiful  sycophant ; 
the  different  trees  with  different  colours  from  the  rest ;  and 
this  beautiful  dress  of  the  wild  tufts  and  low  shrubs  conti- 
nued where  the  temperature  was  the  same,  through  our 
whole  journey.  The  hedges  were  formed  by  the  accidental 
direction  of  a  mule  track,  which  seemed  as  if  like  quicksets 
they  had  been  planted  by  art,  and  all  wore  this  brilliant  livery. 

The  mountains,  in  the  valley  of  Caracas,  bore  a  strange- 
ness of  figure  and  order,  that  I  had  not  seen  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world ;  this  dissimilarity  became  in  the 
valley  of  Aragua,  and  as  far  as  the  extent  of  the  range  east 
of  Barquisimeto,  more  remarkable,  and  such  as  I  had  not 
seen  described  by  any  writer,  so  as  to  leave  an  impression  of 
the  characteristic  forms,  and  their  conformity  in  a  long 
range ;  I  shall  give  my  impressions  hereafter.  The  rivulets 
which  crossed  our  path,  flowing  from  the  chain  on  our  right 
which  separated  us  from  the  ocean,  were  numerous  and  re- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  141 

freshing,  limpid,  cool,  and  murmuring;  they  led  their  way 
to  the  rich  plantations  which  filled  the  spaces  on  our  left;  our 
route  being  west  of  south,  variably  a  point  more  or  less  west 
of  south. 

One  of  those  rills,  more  loud  and  gurgling  than  its  neigh- 
bours, attracted  our  notice ;  it  was  quarrelUng  with  a  small 
brick  arch  of  excellent  mason  work,  but  either  the  workman 
did  not  fit  the  stream,  or  the  stream  had  outgrown  the  arch, 
and  seemed  to  wrangle  for  a  passage.  The  water  which  is- 
sued from  beneath  the  arch,  now  spread  into  more  than  a 
dozen  small  rivulets,  and  wound  their  way  round  the  foot  of 
a  projecting  mound  or  spur  of  the  mountain,  which  also  in- 
tercepted our  view  to  the  south. 

A  very  spacious,  though  rather  dilapidated  building,  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  of  pita,  stood  on  the  brow  of  the  hill 
which  the  road  separated  from  its  main  stock ;  the  building 
had  certainly  been  battered  by  the  war,  and  violence  had 
thrown  some  parts  down  ;  it  still  indicated  some  former  opu- 
lence ;  it  was  as  commodious  as  our  Pennsylvania  barns,  and 
though  we  could  not  discover  what  it  had  been,  or  to  whom 
it  belonged,  from  the  passing  muleteers,  our  progress 
brought  us  into  a  position  which  opened  to  our  view,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  below,  an  immense  field  of  sugar  cane,  which 
appeared  to  cover  the  plain  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach ; 
beneath  the  foot  of  the  hill  which  we  were  now  descending, 
appeared  a  busy  scene,  crowds  of  men  and  mules  coming 
and  going  from  a  group  of  buildings  which  bore  the  aspect 
of  freshness  and  prosperity  ;  at  the  north-east  angle  of  the 
spacious  sugar  field,  the  valley  appeared  about  two  miles 
broad,  and  a  handsome  river  flowed  on  its  south-east  side  to 
the  eastward ;  the  extent  in  the  prolongation  could  not  be 
less  than  four  or  five  miles,  I  was  told  five.  We  descended 
to  the  valley,  and  found  this  scene  of  activity,  which  did  not 
cease  for  several  hours  that  we  halted  there,  was  a  sugar- 
mill,  from  which  the  mules  M^ere  carrying  away  loaves  of 


14S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

fine  white  sugar,  of  much  greater  magnitude  than  is  usual 
with  us ;  the  loaves  were  placed  in  bags,  and  the  bags  slung 
across  the  mules.  The  road  at  the  bottom  wound  off  to  the 
south  round  a  steep  but  not  very  elevated  hill,  on  the  sum- 
mit of  which  stood  a  handsome  pavilion,  which,  though  not  in 
entire  ruin,  was  in  some  respects  shattered,  and  to  appearance 
uninhabited  ;  the  style  of  the  building  was  tasty  and  neat;  the 
fences  in  its  rear  were  in  ruin  also,  and  showed  where  a  spa- 
cious garden  had  once  stood,  now  disordered  with  wild  weeds, 
and  desolate  to  the  foot  of  the  forest  which  clothed  the  moun- 
tain to  the  summit ;  it  was  San  Mateo,  the  estate  and  pavi- 
lion of  Bolivar,  and  the  battered  venitians  and  walls  perfo- 
rated with  bullets  still  remaining,  showed  who  had  disfi- 
gured this  beautiful  place.  Sefiora  Antonia  Bolivar  had 
written  to  Seiior  Martin  Duran,  the  major-domo  of  the  pre- 
sident, to  receive  us  as  her  friends ;  it  was  kind,  but  he 
would  have  done  so  himself;  the  spirit  of  the  owner  per- 
vades every  thing  at  San  Mateo.  We  halted  here  till  four 
o'clock. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  ^43 


CHAPTER  X. 

Some  account  of  San  Mateo— the  Major-Domo  an  intelligent  man— our  enter- 
tainment— the  scene  of  the  gallant  self-immolation  of  Ricaute — the  economy 
of  the  sugar  mill — the  sugar  fine — an  unceasing  demand — anecdote — dinner— 
the  pavilion— the  barbarian  Boves — historical  facts  -Tulmero—Maracayo— -our 
arrival  anticipated  and  quarters  provided— industry  proverbial  here — wise 
conduct  of  the  government  to  soldiers'  widows  and  orphans — leave  Maracay — 
lake  of  Valencia— pass  of  La  Cabrera— various  historical  events  there— attempt 
to  assassinate  Paez — frustrated  by  a  child. 

Coming  upon  the  view  of  this  scene,  without  being  aware 
where  we  were,  was  certainly  an  augmentation  of  the  plea- 
sure. Had  we  been  prepared,  the  reputation  of  the  owner 
would  be  the  predominating  impression  on  the  judgment ; 
that  little  area  which  had  attracted  notice,  if  it  had  been 
known  to  be  the  work  of  Bolivar,  and  that  those  streams 
which  issued  and  wound  round  the  hill,  and  formed  a  pro- 
longed and  ample  current  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  just  above 
the  long  range  of  the  sugar-field,  with  its  sluices  prepared  to 
open  and  supply  the  vegetation  beneath ;  all  these  would 
have  been  diminished  in  importance  connected  with  a  name 
so  celebrated ;  but,  seeing  it  in  its  single  character  of  a 
work  of  art  and  skill,  very  rare  in  this  fine  country,  the  sa- 
tisfaction was  more  ample  ;  when  we  were  introduced  to  Se- 
iior  Duran,  and  seated  at  his  hospitable  board,  the  gratifi- 
cation was  indeed  great. 

A  good  wall  of  stone,  built  with  lime,  surrounded  the 
spacious  area  of  this  sugar-mill,  and  the  entrance  was  on  the 
road  by  which  we  must  pass ;  he  had  descried  us  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill  above,  and  came  to  the  gate,  without  affecta- 
tion, habited  as  if  he  was  immersed  in  business ;  a  cheerful 
visaged  little  gentleman.  I  inquired  the  name  of  the  place, 
and,  with  a  smile,  he  signified  it  was  St.  Mateo,  the  planta- 
tion of  the  President  of  Colombia,  and  entreated  us  to  enter, 


144  ,  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

a  servant  having  previously  opened  and  kept  the  gate  extend- 
ed— that  the  day  was  warm,  the  young  lady  would  need  re- 
frebhment — and  our  mules  would  travel  with  better  spirit 
after  taking  some  young  sugar-cane.  We  entered,  as  we  in- 
tended, and  had  been  enjoined  by  the  President's  sister,  and 
were  conducted  into  a  paved  hall,  at  one  end  of  which  was 
the  dwelling  of  the  major  domo  and  his  family,  whom  he 
made  us  acquainted  with  ;  fruit  of  the  finest  flavour,  lemo- 
nade, and  chocolate,  succeeded  each  other  as  a  refresco ; 
and  we  were  invited  to  see  the  various  processes  of  the 
sugar  refining,  distilling,  and  to  visit  the  grounds,  the  ac- 
tivity going  on  having  excited  expressions  of  surprise  and 
pleasure. 

As  I  had  been  familiar  with  the  name  of  this  villa,  and 
the  gallant  self-immolation  of  the  young  patriot  Ricaute  had 
given  it  a  celebrity  that  must  endure  with  the  republic,  I 
inteiuled  to  go  up  to  the  pavilion  and  visit  the  scene  ;  but 
was  informed  that  the  pavilion  was  out  of  repair,  that  it  had 
still  the  marks  of  military  violence  and  Spanish  wantonness 
on  its  walls ;  but  he  pointed  the  way  and  led  us  to  his  apart- 
ments contiguous  to  the  sugar-mill,  and  we  sat  down  in  a 
porch  truly  Moorish  in  its  structure — where  a  spacious  ta- 
ble was  soon  after  covered  with  a  fine  damask  cloth,  and 
salvers  of  the  most  delicious   fruit ;  light  wines,  and  a  ser- 
vice of  chocolate — with  hot  rolls  of  as  good  a  quality  and  as 
well  made  and  baked  as  we  could  have  had  in  Philadelphia — 
eggs  and  butter,  and  sweetmeats — and  a  handsome  case  of 
liqueurs    covered    the    board ;    the  spouse  of   Senor  Du- 
ran,  with   her  lively  children,   soon  presented  themselves ; 
and  some  visitors  from  the  neighbourhood  filled  the  table, 
though  spacious  as  it  was — our  appetites  were  good,  and 
our  host  and  hostess  perfectly  delighted,  and  appeared  to  en- 
joy our  familiarity  without  reserve,   and  the  pleasure  which 
we  could  not  but  manifest,  from  an  association  of  ideas,  in 
which  the  place,  the  owner,  the  contentment,  the  abundance, 


i 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  145 

and  the  activity  which  pervaded  this  delightful  villa,  were 
every  instant  manifest.  After  we  had  been  some  time  at 
table,  the  worthy  host  proposed  to  show  us  the  establish- 
ment— we  descended  half  a  dozen  stairs,  which  brought  us 
on  the  floor  of  the  mill ;  an  overshot  wheel  of  excellent  me- 
chanism, of  about  eight  feet  shaft,  or  sixteen  feet  diameter, 
turned  a  set  of  three  massy  iron  vertical  cylinders,  of  about 
two  and  a  half  feet  diameter,  which  were  supplied  by  two 
hands  with  ripe  cane ;  and  gave  full  employment  to  a  con- 
stant succession  of  mules,  which  brought  their  loads  of  cane, 
discharged  them  on  the  floor,  and  carried  off"  to  the  distillery 
the  trnsh  (as  it  is  called  in  the  West  Indies),  or  squeezed 
cane.  The  vat,  or  reservoir  beneath  the  cylinders,  though 
spacious,  was  kept  constantly  full,  though  two  hands  were 
unceasingly  employed  on  it ;  one  skimming  the  floating  fe- 
culence from  the  surface,  which  appeared  to  be  tending  to 
fermentation  ;  this  scum  was  carried  into  the  distillery,  which 
was  established  in  a  building  forming  an  angle  with  the 
mill  on  the  east  end,  and  beneath  which  the  stream  of  water 
passed,  supplying  the  uses  of  the  distillery  before  it  reached 
the  sugar  field,  which,  by  happy  contrivance,  was  so  con- 
ducted as  to  irrigate  the  whole  of  the  vast  field  of  cane  we 
had  seen  from  the  summit  of  the  hill. 

A  second  man,  with  a  bucket  ladle,  poured  into  a  line 
of  spouts  the  skimmed  liquor  from  the  vats  ;  these  spouts 
led  to  the  apartments  where  the  sugar  was  boiled,  on  the 
west  angle  ;  contiguous  to  which  were  apartments  appropri- 
ted  to  moulds,  and  the  process  of  claying. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  coral,  in  front,  toward  the  road, 
was  a  commodious  house,  built  of  stone,  as  was  the  mill 
and  offices  altogether, — this  was  a  drying  house  for  the 
loaf  sugar,  a  series  of  very  large  coffers — resembling,  in 
their  form  and  mode  of  use,  the  drawers  of  a  bureau,  which 
were  placed  beneath  the  eaves  of  the  drying  house.  The 
loaves  of  sugar  taken  from  the  moulds  were  placed  on  racks 

19 


146  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

within  those  drawers,  and,  if  there  was  an  apprehens'^on  of 
of  rain,  those  drawers,  wliich  were  exposei!  totht.  hun  while 
requisite,  were  shoved  beneath  the  eaves,  and  above  the  ceil- 
ing of  the  house  within,  which  was  the  lodging  apartment  of 
a  certain  number  oi  the  labourers. 

While  I  was  viewing  this  excellent  contrivance,  the  busi- 
ness of  sale  was  going  on.  Several  persons  rode  into  the  yard, 
tied  up  their  horses  to  a  rack  ;  persons  were  employed  in 
weighing  the  loaves  of  fine  white  lump  sugar,  upon  which 
I  found  marked  22,  25,  27  pounds.  The  purchasers  brought 
mules  with  sacks,  suitable  for  the  service,  and  placing  a 
loaf  or  more  at  each  end  of  the  bag,  tied  the  bags  to  the 
pannier,  said  little,  paid  their  money,  and  moved  off.  Some 
horsemen  purchased  one  or  two  loaves,  and  carried  them 
across  the  saddle  bow. 

The  appearance  of  every  thing,  and  every  face  of  this 
place,  spoke  contentment  and  abundance.  A  domestic  at- 
tached himself  to  me,  and  we  rambled  over  the  cane  field — an 
avenue  or  bank,  which  runs  along  the  north  side  of  the  val- 
ley, retained  within  a  ditch  the  lively  stream  we  had  seen  at 
the  bridge,  and  had  heard  forcing  its  way  beneath  the  artifi- 
cial arch.  A  stream  that  gives  to  the  domestic  economy 
a  never-failing  fountain,  activity  to  the  ponderous  mill,  sup- 
plied the  distillery,  and  now  rushed  gaily  along  the  lane  of 
sugar  canes,  and,  by  well  contrived  demi-sluices,  at  con- 
venient distances  descended  to  the  inclined  plane  of  the  sugar 
field,  thence  conducted  as  experience  required  to  any  part  of 
the  vast  field ;  those  channels  were  so  well  contrived,  that  all 
the  field,  or  any  part,  could,  by  closing  or  opening  small 
sluices,  be  irrigated  at  discretion. 

As  the  efforts  of  a  stranger  to  speak  the  language  of  a 
country,  are  in  almost  every  country  treated  with  respect, 
and  as  if  complimentary,  and  being  desirous  to  make  myself 
familiar,  as  well  as  to  be  informed,  I  spoke  unreservedly 
witli  those  whom  I  met  on  the  plantation,     I  addressed  my- 


■i:. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  147 

Self  to  a  well-looking  negro,  with  a  sleek  shining  skin,  and  ask- 
ed him  whom  he  belonged  to.  He  looked  at  me  with  a  smile 
somethmg  between  surprize  and  gravity,  but  spiritedly  told 
me,  there  were  no  slaves  connected  with  Bolivar !  The 
feeling  with  which  it  was  uttered  was  delightful,  and  I  apo- 
logized by  assuring  him  of  the  satisfaction  he  had  given  me  : 
he  was  at  once  at  ease,  and  informed  me,  that  though  he 
might  go  where  he  pleased,  he  preferred  to  remain  where  he 
was,  and  would  ever  remain  with  the  libertador  Bolivar. 

Though  our  desat/unoy  ov  dejeune,  had  been  luxurious  and 
abundant,  dinner  had  been  provided  while  we  were  traversing 
the  estate  in  different  directions ;  and  the  time  elapsed  so  ra- 
pidly, that  it  was  already  two  o'clock  when  we  were  re- 
quested to  sit  down.  On  the  first  entrance,  the  necessity  of 
attending  to  personal  civilities  and  conversation,  rendered  it 
inconvenient  to  bestow  attention  on  objects  around  us :  the 
hall  in  which  we  were  now  entertained  was  paved  with 
rounded  pebbles,  and  the  ingenuity  of  the  paver  had  been 
exercised,  in  giving,  by  means  of  different-coloured  pebbles, 
an  imitation  of  Mosaic ;  the  table  was  massive,  and  to  ap- 
pearance as  ancient  as  the  sixteenth  century  ;  the  chairs  were 
not  a  century  more  youthful,  only  that  the  backs  and  seats 
were  of  the  dried  cowhide  of  the  country,  though  wrought 
upon  with  more  than  ordinary  skill ;  heavy  carving  on  the 
backs  and  frames ;  the  table  utensils  of  silver,  as  forks  and 
spoons,  were  in  the  same  antique  style ;  but  there  were  the 
best  of  Claret,  Madeira,  Muscadel,  and,  what  we  least  ex- 
pected, American  porter  and  ale,  from  Philadelphia,  in  good 
condition  :  we  were  generously  and  kindly  entertained.  But 
it  was  necessary  that  we  should  part,  though  it  was  evidently 
with  reluctance  all  round  ;  and  our  mules,  as  ordered,  were 
ready  to  mount  at  three  o'clock,  though  we  encroached  half 
an  hour  on  our  regulation  in  respect  to  our  worthy  host. 

The  ascent  to  the  pavilion  I  did  not  attempt,  but  Lieut. 
Bache  ascended,  and  traced  the  position  of  the  Spaniards  by 


148  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  direction  of  the  bullets,  which  continued  to  hold  their 
places  in  the  wall.  The  outhouses  of  this  villa,  during  the 
diversified  war  of  the  close  oi  1813  and  the  beginning  of 
1814,  had  served  as  depots  for  the  patriot  armies,  who  had 
beaten  the  monster  Boves  at  Victoria,  and  Rosette  on  the 
Tuy  :  these  sanguinary  and  relentless,  but  intrtpid  Spanish 
partizans,  though  defeated,  had  in  their  defeat  destroyed  a 
full  third  of  the  patriot  troops  opposed  to  them.  Boves, 
after  retiring  to  the  plams,  soon  returned  with  reinforcements 
of  natives  of  the  country,  whom  he  had  compelled  by  terror 
to  enrol  in  his  ranks,  and  whom  he  retained  by  the  same 
system  of  fear,  coupled  with  the  terrors  of  future  torments, 
preached  by  the  royalist  monks  attached  to  those  ministers  of 
massacre.  Generals  Marino  and  Mariano  Montilla,  by  uniting 
their  forces,  repelled  the  royalists ;  while  Bolivar,  with  another 
division,  which  maintained  the  valley  of  Aragua,  gained  an- 
other victory,  fought  on  his  own  estate,  and  in  which  signal 
acts  of  self-devotion  were  displayed  by  many  of  those  negroes, 
and  their  progeny,  whom  he  had  previously  emancipated, 
and  whose  affection  and  devotion  led  them  to  follow  his  for- 
tunes and  contribute  to  his  safety.  These  triumphs,  ob- 
tained at  a  few  miles  apart,  and  unknown  until  success  had 
removed  the  enemy,  obliged  the  royal  generals  Calzada  and 
Cevallos  to  retire  from  Valencia. 

But  though  the  Colombian  revolution  has  been  character- 
ised by  acts  of  valour  and  heroism,  as  much  as  any  similar 
event  in  any  age  or  country,  the  heroic  daring  of  young  Ri- 
caute,  a  native  of  Bogota,  which  was  exhibited  at  St.  Mateo, 
cannot  properly  be  passed  over  by  the  traveller.  He  was  in 
his  eighteenth  year,  and  distinguished  for  his  great  self-posses- 
sion, and  devotion  to  the  freedom  of  his  country  ;  he  took 
his  station,  during  the  attack,  himself,  in  charge  of  the  ma- 
gazine, with  a  trusty  detachment.  He  had  kept  a  vigilant 
watch  for  the  enemy,  who  had  resolved  to  seize  upon  this 
magazine  :  the  enemy's  numbers  were  as  four  to  one  ;  Ri- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  14J> 

caute  determined  upon  the  course  that  became  a  herb  ;  hav- 
ing ordered  the  whole  of  his  own  party  to  take  a  private  path, 
which  led  through  the  hills  towards  Tulmero ;  intimating 
that  if  he  survived  he  should  follow,  as  he  was  preparing  to 
frustrate  the  enemy.  They  had  not  marched  a  mile  in  the 
mountains,  when  the  Spaniards  determined  upon  an  assault, 
surrounded,  and  entered  the  magazine  ;  Ricaute  alone  stood 
to  receive  them  ;  he  had  so  disposed  of  the  powder  as  to  ac- 
complish his  purpose  most  effectively,  and  the  Spanish  officer 
was  about  to  seize  him,  when  he  put  a  match  to  the  train 
he  had  prepared,  and  perished  with  the  whole  of  the  Spa- 
niards who  had  entered  the  place,  and  came  to  be  his  captors. 

The  line  of  march  from  Caracas  inclined  very  much  to 
the  south  of  west,  as  far  as  Consejo ;  the  course  by  Victo- 
ria to  San  Mateo  was  still  more  westwardly  and  irregular ;  on 
leaving  San  Mateo  the  direction  was  soon  directly  west,  and 
by  Tulmero,  a  great  mercantile  depot  and  aduana  or  custom- 
house under  the  monarchy,  and  containing  at  one  period 
about  10,000  inhabitants :  commerce  has  not  wholly  forsaken 
it,  but  the  establishment  of  the  republic  has  enabled  every 
man  to  "  smoke  his  own  segars  in  his  own  way,'*  unbur- 
dened by  too  much  regulation.  The  road  which  leads  to 
the  left  and  to  the  south  being  the  shortest  by  some  miles, 
our  mules  took  the  shortest  route,  and  moving  off  to  the 
south,  we  avoided  the  inconvenience  of  ascending  and  de- 
scending steep  precipices,  and  wound  round  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  entering  the  neat  but  noiseless  town  of  Maracay, 
in  a  north-west  direction. 

This  place  was  subject  to  a  military  commandant ;  our 
kombre  de  provechero^  or  man  of  service,  was  dispatched  to 
seek  quarters,  but  the  commandant,  who  had  also  gone  to 
Achaguas,  by  some  means  had  heard  of  our  coming,  and 
before  Vincent  had  returned,  a  subaltern  officer  approached 
us,  and  in  a  polite  manner  signified  the  absence  of  the  com- 
mandant, but  presented  an  order  for  our  accommodation  on 


13d  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Senora  Moreno  in  the  Calle  de  Bolivar,  and  he  was  so  oblig- 
ing as  to  pass  with  us  to  the  house. 

The  spacious  gates  of  this  casa  were  thrown  open,  and 
we  rode  into  the  patio^  or  open  court  within  the  house,  where 
we  were  received  by  two  or  three  ladies  in  mourning;,  of  very 
respectable  appearance  and  manners,  who  showed  us  every 
attention,  gave  us  the  two  best  apartments  in  the  house,  of 
which  the  windows  open  upon  the  Plaza  or  Great  Square. 
They  were  particularly  delighted  with  the  Senorita  Ameri' 
carta  del  Nor  de.  The  usual  routine  of  unloading  baggage, 
putting  up  Iwmmocks,  preparing  the  chocolate,  procuring 
bread  (and  here  it  was  to  be  had  of  fine  quality),  and  in  short 
the  travelling  meal ;  the  provision  for  the  mules  and  such 
services,  all  took  precedence  of  every  other  business,  and 
when  once  done,  left  whatever  time  was  to  be  spared  to  con- 
versation or  any  other  occupation.  Elizabeth  had  brought 
with  her  a  well-assorted  apparatus  for  needle-work  and  em- 
broidery, and  when  we  arrived  early  in  any  place,  where 
there  was  no  opportunity  or  object  worth  walking  to  see, 
she  opened  her  box  and  went  to  work,  much  to  the  admira- 
tion of  the  ladies,  whose  habits,  though  with  exceptions,  are 
yet  too  much  Spanish  in  most  parts  of  the  country  to  derive 
any  pleasure  from  such  occupation. 

This  town  of  Maracay,  though  we  found  it  silent,  and  the 
streets  without  any  idlers,  but  some  of  the  drones  in  cas- 
socks, is  celebrated  for  its  industry  ;  indeed,  the  population 
of  the  east  end  of  this  valley,  from  the  Tuy  to  Maracay, 
makes  a  strong  impression  ;  the  good  order  of  their  planta- 
tions, the  exterior  neatness  of  their  habitations ;  and,  what  was 
most  striking  to  me,  there  were  none  of  those  mendicants 
which  annoy  by  their  importunity,  and  offend  sometimes  by 
their  impertinence,  the  passing  stranger,  in  all  the  cities  and 
most  of  the  towns  we  passed  through.  Here  the  best  and 
neatest  hammocks  are  manufactured  from  the  cotton  which 
grows  on  trees  as  large  as  our  apple  trees  in  all  parts  of  Co- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  151 

lomBia,  in  a  temperature  of  about  70  deg.  It  is  a  perfectly 
republican  town  ;  and  their  hammocks,  counterpanes,  and 
napkins  are  in  demand  and  esteem  from  Cumana  toMerida, 
and  are  sought  at  Bogota  and  Carthagena ;  the  inhabitants 
are  also  as  much  distinguished  for  their  probity  in  dealing, 
their  exemption  from  the  stateliness  and  inane  pride  of  the 
Spaniards,  as  for  their  good  dispositions  and  industry.  The 
good  lady  at  whose  house  we  quartered,  had  lost  her  husband 
and  some  other  male  relatives  in  the  revolution ;  and,  as  she 
expressed  it,  her  towns  people  never  thought  they  contri- 
buted enough  to  her  pleasure  and  comfort.  The  mother 
and  sisters  of  the  good  Seiiora,  were  solicitous  to  make 
our  short  stay  as  agreeable  as  possible,  and  nosegays,  and 
some  choice  fruit  were  presented  by  them  to  my  daughter, 
with  a  most  interesting  candour  and  desire  to  please. 

The  government  is  provident  in  many  cases  of  this  kind  ; 
those  ladies  are  allowed  an  annual  stipend,  linder  an  implied 
condition  of  affording  lodging  to  respectable  persons  whom 
the  government  may  think  proper  to  compliment  in  this  way, 
by  which  I  understood,  that  it  was  thus,  through  some  means 
unknown  to  us,  our  arrival  was  anticipated  and  lodging  thus 
provided. 

We  departed  from  Maracay  at  half  past  five  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  seventeenth  of  November.  The  whole  road  from 
the  banks  of  the  Tuy  to  this  place  might  be  travelled  by  a 
boy  on  a  velocipede,  and  it  so  continued  to  be  level  until  we 
reached  near  Valencia.  About  half  past  eight  we  had  tlie 
first  delightful  view  of  the  lake  of  Valencia,  as  the  sailors 
would  express  it,  on  our  larboard  bow;  the  sweetness  of  the 
atmosphere,  its  serenity  and  tempered  light,  with  a  slight 
ripple  from  a  breeze  on  the  expanded  lake ;  the  mountains 
on  each  side  receding  and  ascending ;  at  the  base  gradually 
curving  until  near  the  summit,  their  declivity  or  uprightness 
conveyed  the  idea  of  that  kind  of  parabolic  line,  formed  by 
the  sides  ot  a  large  punch  bowl,  the  lake  itself  did  not  seem 


152  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

continuous,  from  this  point,  but  as  if  composed  of  several 
lakes,  from  the  intersection  of  promontories,  and  the  apparent 
continuity  of  land,  when,  in  reality,  an  island  district  Irom 
the  shore  filled  up  with  the  ground  line  in  some  places ; 
but  which  soon  opened,  when  the  position  changed,  as  we 
advanced  through  the  small  hamlet  of  Tapitapa,  along  the 
winding  beach  of  the  lake,  which,  like  the  sea  shore,  was 
thickly  pebbled.  The  coast  of  the  lake  here  forms  a  cove 
locked  in  on  the  west,  north,  and  east  sides ;  the  east  side 
being  forest,  in  a  gradually  sloping  line  inclining  to  the  lake, 
and  its  base  forming  a  curve,  along  which  the  road  trends 
on  emerging  from  the  immensely  lofty  trees  that  skirt  the 
road  from  Maracay  to  Tapitapa,  on  the  east ;  the  slope  rises 
rapidly,  and  when  two  thirds  of  the  semicircle  of  this  cove 
are  passed,  it  is  a  vast  ridge,  forming  one  of  those  spurs 
which  characterise  the  whole  chain  from  the  Silla  of  Cara- 
cas to  Barquisimeto,  and  of  which  more  will  be  said  in  no- 
ticing the  country  round  Valencia,  or  such  other  position 
as  may  invite  elucidation. 

This  lofty  ridge,  on  the  right,  is  extremely  steep,  but  co- 
vered with  forest  trees  of  great  magnitude  and  elevation,  and 
the  base  of  the  mountain  is  covered  with  wild  shrubbery 
and  brilliant  foliage  ;  the  lake  on  the  left  during  the  semi- 
circuit  presents  a  most  enchanting  spectacle  ;  'the  verdure  of 
the  surrounding  banks,  the  blue  canopy  over  head,  contend- 
ing with  the  bright  mirror  of  the  lake,  to  impress  each  their 
peculiar  hue  on  the  other  ;  the  commixture  of  colours,  and 
glassy  sparkling  light,  resembled  the  corruscations  of  the 
Aurora  Borealis^  such  as  poetry  might  make  a  theme  of,  and 
if  the  poetry  were  equal  in  beauty  to  the  object,  would  divest 
works  of  imagination  of  a  great  part  of  their  interest. 

Ambling  along  this  pebbled  strand,  charmed  by  the  va- 
riety, grandeur,  and  multitude  of  objects,  the  lofty  ridge  ab- 
ruptly terminated,  and  opened  a  more  extensive  view  of  the 
lake  beyond  it  ;  but  its  abrupt  termination,  and  its  shaggy 


•> 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  453 

sides  and  summit  ceased  to  be  interesting  in  a  moment,  and 
that  instant  produced  a  train  of  new  sensations.  The  open- 
ing which  exposed  the  lake,  was  just  so  broad  as  to  permit 
a  horseman  to  pass,  and  the  opposite  side  presented  an  im- 
mense cone,  rivalling  the  mountain  in  altitude,  but  without 
verdure  of  any  kind ;  it  stood  erect,  a  scarp  of  naked  clay, 
of  which  the  breadth,  at  the  base,  was  not  one  third  of  the 
elevation,  and  cast  its  shadow  on  the  trembling  water ;  such 
is  its  declivity,  that  it  would  seem  hazardous  for  a  goat  to 
climb  it ;  a  mule,  with  all  its  security  and  firmness  of  foot, 
could  not ;  but  man  has  found  his  way  in  confidence  to  the 
summit,  and  established  not  only  a  dwelling,  but  a  military 
work  on  its  apex.  A  plate  of  this  position,  which  is  called 
La  Cabrera^  fronts  the  title  page. 

This  position  has  been  frequently  made  memorable  du- 
ring the  revolution.  After  the  fatal  earthquake  of  1812, 
when  the  country  was  deprived  of  so  many  of  its  veterans, 
and  their  arms  buried  with  them  ;  when  8000  stand  compo- 
sed the  whole  armament  of  the  republic  ;  and  2000  of  these 
were  not  fit  for  service  ;  when  the  monks  had  been  taught 
to  preach  and  inculcate,  that  the  earthquake  was  an  indica- 
tion of  Almighty  vengeance  against  the  revolutionists,  and 
Monteverde,  seizing  upon  the  fanatic  fears  of  the  multitude, 
and  their  panic,  compelled  Col.  Carabaiio  to  retire  from 
San  Carlos,  Miranda,  with  only  2000  men,  evacuated  Valen- 
cia, and  resolved  to  concentrate  his  forces  at  this  distin- 
guished pass.  Whether  it  be  from  the  difficulty  of  access 
by  the  long  and  circuitous  route  on  the  skirt  of  the  lake,  from 
St.  Joaquin  to  La  Cabrera,  every  foot  of  which  might  be 
defended  by  a  small  force  against  a  greater  ;  or  the  singular 
form  of  the  cone,  the  security  it  afforded  from  its  steepness 
against  attack,  and  against  shot  from  its  elevation,  it  was  se- 
lected with  judgment,  as  the  best  position  to  repulse  and  ar- 
rest the  march  of  Monteverde.  But  some  men  faithless  to 
their  country,  who  had  traversed  the  mountains  as  smug- 

20 


154<  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

glers,  communicated  to  the  Spanish  general,  that  there  was 
a  secret  path  by  which  the  defile  of  La  Cabrera  could  be 
avoided.  In  consequence  Miranda  was  obhged  to  move 
upon  Victoria,  which  he  gained  before  the  enemy.  But  in 
the  month  of  June  following,  Monteverde  determined  on  a 
night  attack,  and  before  day-light  surprised  the  patriots  in 
Victoria.  Miranda  rallied  them  like  a  gallant  soldier,  and 
drove  the  enemy  before  him  for  more  than  a  league,  when 
the  troops  were  called  in,  and  the  fugitive  Spaniards  were 
thus  enabled  to  escape.  It  is  considered,  by  men  of  good 
judgment,  that  if  the  pursuit  had  been  continued  with  the 
same  spirit  that  the  attack  was  begun,  Monteverde  must 
have  taken  refuge  in  Puerto  Cabello  ;  but  that  incident  with 
others  led  to  the  fall  of  Caracas. 

La  Cabrera  was  agaiu  distinguished  in  1816,  when  Bo- 
livar landed  from  the  West  Indies  at  Choroni  and  Ocumare  ; 
general  M'Gregor  was  then  charged  with  the  advanced 
guard,  not  amountmg  to  more  than  500  men ;  by  rapid 
marches  from  an  unexpected  quarter,  and  taking  precautions 
to  intercept  intercourse  with  Valencia  or  Caracas,  he,  by  a 
skilful  stratagem,  surprised  the  Spanish  picket  posted  at 
Cabrera,  and,  while  they  were  carousing  at  the  Posada^  at 
the  foot  of  the  cone,  he  occupied  the  place  by  scaling  the 
ordinary  path,  and  making  the  Spaniards  prisoners ;  he  then 
pursued  his  march,  and  took  Maracay  and  Victoria  before 
the  Spanish  general  Morales  could  arrest  his  progress. 

After  the  war  of  extermination  had  been  proclaimed,  the 
affairs  of  Colombia  had  become  very  gloomy.  When  the 
patriots  were  made  prisoners,  the  practice  was  to  publicly  or- 
der them  to  be  conducted  to  a  depot ;  but  a  private  order  was 
given  to  execute  them  on  the  way,  for  which  a  fit  officer  was 
always  selected ;  they  were  directed  to  be  pierced  with  a 
a  lance,  in  the  first  thicket  they  approached.  Colonel  Rivas, 
a  friend  of  Bolivar,  having  fallen  into  the  enemy's  hands,  his 
head  was  cut  off  by  one  of  those  Spanish  monsters,  placed  in 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  155 

a  sack,  and  sent,  after  the  Turkish  fashion,  to  his  insulted  and 
afflicted  friend.  The  flower  of  the  army  and  the  population 
were  at  this  period  undergoing  a  progressive  extirpation  ;  des- 
pair had  overcome  minds  of  a  weak  temperament,  and  others 
of  lax  principles  no  longer  hesitated  to  talk  of  reconciliation 
with  Spain.  Antonio  Jose  Paez,  a  native  of  the  plains  that 
border  on  the  Orinoco,  had  signalized  himself  by  his  match- 
less intrepidity  ;  many  persons  having  retired  to  the  plains,  he 
reproached  those  wavering  men,  and  concluded  by  declar- 
ing, that  if  there  could  be  wretches  so  abject  as  to  abandon 
a  cause  in  which  so  much  blood  had  been  generously  sacri- 
ficed to  give  them  freedom,  they  must  not  expect  counte- 
tenance  to  their  perfidy  from  him,  nor  the  opportunity  to 
corrupt  others  by  their  cowardice ;  that  he  would  not  com- 
promise for  a  miserable  existence  the  independence  he  had 
fought  for ;  he  would  rally  all  of  his  countrymen  whose  vir- 
tues were  unshaken,  and  taking  possession  o(La  Cabrera  and 
the  lake  of  Valencia,  he  would  carry  on  an  interminable  war 
against  the  Spanish  tyrants  and  all  who  should  submit  to 
subjection  ;  and  there  it  would  not  be  in  the  power  of  all 
Spain  to  dislodge  him. 

Near  this  place  an  action,  very  desperate  but  decisive,  was 
fought  in  1818.  The  Spanish  general  Morillo,  had  been  in 
the  Llanos,  or  plains  ;  Bolivar  formed  a  plan  of  campaign 
against  him,  with  Paez  and  Cedenio  as  his  lieutenants.  Three 
successive  actions  were  fought  on  the  12,  13,  and  14th  Fe- 
bruary of  that  year,  and  Morillo  was  olDliged  to  make  a 
concealed  retreat  with  a  few  horse  towards  the  valley  of  Ara- 
gua.  But  the  fugitive  was  pursued  and  overtaken  with  a 
body  of  fresh  troops  that  had  been  marched  to  his  support ; 
these  were  attacked  on  the  16th,  and  on  the  17th;  in  this  ter- 
rible attack,  the  royal  troops  were  cut  to  pieces  at  Sombrero, 
a  town  on  a  branch  of  the  Guarico,  and  about  fifty  miles 
north  of  Calabozo,  where  Morillo  escaped  by  crossing  the 


156  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

Guarico  to  Ortiz  on  the  right  bank,  and  thence  fled  to  Va- 
lencia. 

The  lake  is  computed  to  be  forty-five  miles  in  its 
greatest  extent,  from  east  north- cast  to  west- so u.th- west,  of 
a  very  irregular  form,  indented  with  little  coves  and  bays ; 
and  varying  north  and  south  from  fittcen  to  twenty- four 
miles.  The  islands,  which  are  many,  are  covered  with 
vegetation,  and  some,  with  lofty  trees,  are  very  picturesque. 
The  absence  of  boats,  on  a  lake  so  ample,  appears  extraor- 
dinary. Colonel  Todd,  who  preceded  us  a  fortnight,  obtain- 
ed a  rude  sort  of  canoe,  in  order  to  view  the  lake  ;  but  the 
pleasure  did  not  compensate  the  inconvenience. 

The  geologists  allege  that  the  singular  cone  of  Cabrera 
was,  at  one  period,  a  continuation  of  the  granitic  promon- 
tory covered  with  forests,  and  known  by  the  name  of  Puerto- 
chuelo,  and  that  the  valley  was  closed,  until  this  defile  was 
separated  from  the  contiguous  mountain.  But  there  is  also 
a  prolongation  still  further  towards  the  south ;  a  long  range, 
partly  rocky,  and  covered  with  vegetation,  not  so  lofty  as 
La  Cabrera,  but  separated  by  a  larger  defile  on  the  south  side. 
As  an  object  of  great  curiosity,  it  is  here  noticed ;  the  conjec- 
tures concerning  its  primitive  form  do  not  carry  conviction 
to  the  understanding.  Certainly,  if  supplied  with  boats  for 
communication  on  the  lake,  it  would  be  an  invulnerable  po- 
sition under  such  an  officer  as  Paez. 

The  constant  pursuit,  and  the  severity  of  those  battles, 
day  after  day,  with  scarce  time  for  rest  or  food,  obliged  Bo- 
livar to  suspend  further  pursuit ;  to  call  in  subsistence,  and 
refresh  his  troops.  But  Paez,  meanwhile,  was  detached 
'  to  repossess  St.  Fernando  de  Apure.  As  soon  as  the  raarch 
of  Paez  was  known  in  Valencia,  Morillo  renewed  his  opera- 
tions with  the  troops  in  Valencia,  and  all  the  wrecks  of  his 
force  that  had  escaped  from  the  plains  marched  eastward. 
Bolivar,  with  not  fifteen  hundred  cavalry,  and  less  than  half 
the  number  of  infantry,  and  part  of  these,  as  well  as  all  the  ca- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  167 

valry,  armed  with  lances  only,  had  cantoned  his  troops,  with 
his  advance,  in  the  villages  of  Guacara,  and  St.  Joaquin— 
some  fresh  troops  occupied  the  pass  of  La  Cabrera,  and 
his  main  force  was  at  iMaracay,  La  Puerta,  and  Vittoria. 
Morillo  lost  no  time,  aware  that  every  hour  would  augment 
Bolivar's  strength  ;  that  Cedeno  and  Paez,  who  were  absent, 
might  be  ordered  to  rejoin  the  Libertador.  The  pickets, 
at  Guaycara,  were  ordered  to  retire  deliberately  upon  St. 
Joaquin,  and  to  defend  this  pass,  and,  if  necessary,  to  retire 
and  make  a  stand  at  Cabrera.  From  the  13th  to  the  17th 
of  March,  was  an  unintermitting  course  of  actions ;  I  passed 
over  the  scene  of  these  conflicts,  with  a  full  recollection  of 
these  historical  events,  as  I  had  before  known  them  through 
authentic  channels.  It  was  evident  that  the  warfare  here 
must  have  been  a  war  of  detachments,  or  guerillas,  as  the 
nature  of  the  ground  did  not  admit  of  the  combat  of  troops 
with  an  extended  front,  but  was  admirably  adapted  for  de- 
fensive war  and  ambuscade. 

In  those  conflicts  on  the  plains,  Morillo  received  a  thrust 
of  a  lance  which  pinned  his  body  to  the  ground,  and  it  was 
believed  that  he  had  perished,  as  the  soldier  who  had  strick- 
en the  blow  related  the  fact,  and  had  left  his  lance  in  the 
body  of  the  royal  chief.  Though  the  wound  was  not  mor- 
tal, it  compelled  Morillo  to  devolve  the  command  on  Gene- 
ral La  Torre,  a  gallant  and  experienced  soldier,  but  an  hon- 
ourable character. 

The  renewal  of  the  war  had  reached  the  plains,  and  Paez 
and  Cedeno  rejoined  the  Libertador.  La  Torre  had  advan- 
ced to  Ortiz,  on  the  Guarico,  and  there  he  was  attacked,  his 
position  stormed,  and  the  avenues  between  Ortiz  and  Va- 
lencia having  been  pre-occupied,  the  royal  chief  retired  to  the 
plains  and  occupied  Calabozo.  This  campaign  had  such 
signal  influence  on  the  affairs  of  the  revolution,  that  I  have 
not  hesitated  to  narrate  such  events  as  were  connected  with 
this  memorable  pass  of  La  Cabrera.     But  it  is  not  in  those. 


158  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

battles  alone,  so  full  of  event  and  powerful  in  their  conse- 
quences, that  La  Cabrera  is  remarkable. 

Morillo,  as  soon  as  he  was  able  to  take  the  field,  marched 
to  the  south-west,  crossed  the  Aguare,  with  an  intention  to 
attack  Paez,  who  was  in  that  quarter  covering  the  supplies 
from  the  plains,  and  intercepting  those  destined  for  the  royal 
force. 

General  Paez  took  a  position  on  the  spacious  plain  of 
Coxede,  near  the  confluence  of  the  small  streams  Aguyral 
and  San  Pedro  with  the  river  Coxede,  a  few  miles  south  of 
San  Carlos.  The  position  commanded  the  highway  be- 
tween the  plains  from  which  the  Spanish  armies  drew  cattle 
for  their  subsistence  ;  and  its  occupation  much  embarrassed 
the  Spanish  army.  Morillo  determined  upon  a  movement 
through  a  defile  on  the  left  of  the  Colombian  position.  Paez 
had  at  the  same  time  resolved  upon  a  movement  upon  the 
right  of  Morillo,  and  the  two  operations  were  going  on  at 
the  same  instant :  as  these  dispositions  on  both  sides  led 
to  consequences  which  neither  contemplated,  the  casual 
discovery  by^  each,  that  the  other  was  in  motion,  deranged 
the  plans  of  both,  and  led  to  a  conflict,  in  which  the  valour 
of  the  troops,  and  the  military  talents  and  resources  of  the 
commanders,  must  determine  the  issue.  Perhaps  no  battle 
of  the  revolution  was  more  desperate  or  sanguinary  ;  it  was 
a  series  of  manoeuvres,  determined  by  the  position  and  the 
coup  d'oeil  of  the  commanders.  The  Spanish  chief  selected 
a  position  from  which  he  could  direct  his  operations.  The 
Colombian  chief  gave  a  general  order  to  the  chiefs  of  his  di- 
visions, to  maintain  a  certain  line,  and  to  move  upon  each  of 
the  enemy's  columns,  front  and  flank,  at  the  same  time; 
Paez  himself  holding  two  columns  of  cavalry  lancers  to  co- 
operate. Soublette,  who  was  chief  of  the  staff",  in  this  battle 
acquired  and  merited  great  distinction.  The  conflict  was  of 
several  hours'  duration,  and  so  fatal  to  both  sides,  that  the 
battle  ceased  from  loss  of  men  and  fatigue.     Morillo  found 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  159 

it  necessary  to  retire  upon  San  Carlos,  though  he  claimed  a 
victory.  Paez  remained  in  possession  of  the  field,  and  had 
to  inter  the  enemy's  dead.  The  great  object  of  covering 
the  source  of  supplies  from  the  plains  was  effected,  and  the 
Spanish  army  disabled  from  prosecuting  military  operations 
for  some  time.  The  battle  of  Coxede  is  therefore  considered 
as  one  of  the  most  important  in  its  consequences,  as  well  as 
the  most  sanguinary  ot  the  revolution. 

As  Paez  was  the  hero  of  this  victory,  and  his  intrepidity 
and  self-possession  the  principal  impulses  of  the  triumph,  it 
may  not  be  impertinent  to  state  in  this  place  an  anecdote, . 
which,  though  it  relates  to  the  campaign  on  the  plains  near 
Calabozo,  shews  the  impression  entertained  by  the  Spaniards 
of  the  formidable  character  of  this  chief.  Many  attempts 
had  been  made  to  assassinate  the  President,  by  the  Spanish 
emissaries ;  an  attempt  was  made  for  a  similar  purpose  on 
Paez.  The  nature  of  the  country,  a  very  warm  climate,  as 
well  as  the  deficiency  of  resources,  rendered  the  appearance 
or  apparel  in  both  armies  very  much  alike :  this  rendered  it 
sometimes  difficult  to  discriminate  between  the  soldiers  of 
either  force.  A  party  had  been  selected  on  the  plains,  who 
were  to  use  the  facility  which  was  given  by  these  means  to 
deception,  and  they  were  directed  to  rendezvous  on  the  bank 
of  a  rivulet,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  camp  or  bivouac  of 
Paez.  Some  emissaries,  who  found  treachery  to  their  country 
a  motive  for  assassination,  had  ascertained  the  tent  or  hut  of 
the  general.  A  slight  hut  had  been  occupied  by  the  general's 
hammock,  and  some  friends  occupied  other  births;  the  do- 
mestics and  orderlies  were  at  hand.  A  small  sprightly  boy, 
Antonio,  had  a  sleeping  place  there  also ;  this  boy  had  rambled 
along  the  margin  of  the  rivulet,  and  night  coming  on,  he  was 
alarmed  by  some  voices  very  near  him,  and  listening  more  at- 
tentively, heard  enough  to  induce  him,  with  instinctive  dis- 
•  cretion,  to  return  precipitately,  and  reveal  what  he  had  heard. 
Paez  instantly  changed  the  countersign,  selected  a  few  officers, 


160  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

with  orders  to  move  circuitously,  and  concentrate  as  near  us 
possible  on  the  point  designated.  The  picket  was  directed 
not  to  interrupt  the  entrance  of  any  stranger  ;  and  so  well 
was  the  Spanish  party  entangled,  that  the  emissaries  entered 
the  general's  hut,  and  found  it  empty,  only  the  moment  be- 
fore they  were  seized.  Not  one  of  the  party  escaped,  and 
some  of  them  revealed  the  whole  design  ;  others  were  de- 
tected as  deserters,  and  they  were,  by  a  sentence  of  a  court 
martial,  disposed  of  as  traitors  and  assassins.  That  intelli- 
gent and  prudent  boy,  Antonio,  the  adopted  son  of  General 
P:;ez,  is  the  youth  who  is  now  admitted  for  his  education 
at  the  United  States  Military  Academy,  West  Point, 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Xake  of  Valencia — road  along  its  coast — the  soil  invades  its  bed  and  grows 
tobacco — St.  Joaquin — Guacara  desolated — warm  day — halt  to  refresh — dipt 
hedge  of  lime  trees  loaded  with  fruit — St.  Diego — aspects  of  the  Plain  and 
Lake — confidence  of  the  people  restored — figure  of  the  Mountains — sudden 
appearance  of  Valencia — the  Glorieta  Bridge — the  Patriot  Officers  work  as 
"bricklayers  on  this  bridge — the  present  Commandant  of  Valencia,  Col.  Urslar, 
so  employed — difference  in  appearance  from  Caracas — the  military  numerous 
—the  Plaza  Mayor  or  Great  Square — house  of  Senor  Penalver — hospitably 
received — quite  at  home — female  curiosity — amiability — ideas  of  travelling — 
the  Commandant — Gen.  Paez — good  breeding  and  amenity — evening  vi- 
sit at  Col.  Urslar's — the  tatoo  beat  off  in  superior  style — Anecdotes  of  Col. 
Urslar — commands  the  Grenadiers  of  the  Guard — Bolivar  negociated  his  ex- 
change— happy  military  self-possession — by  strategy  counteracts  Morales  at 
Naguanagua — nature  of  the  gpround  at  and  near  Valencia — military  operations 
and  stratagems — evolutions  and  partial  action — arrival  of  Paez — Morales  de- 
feated-— effects  of  the  battle  of  Naguanagua. 

Upon  entering  the  pass  of  La  Cabrera,  the  lake  opened 
to    the   eastward    to  an  extent    not    anticipated,    and    the 
shore  on  the  south  side,  with  the  mountain  range  in  its  rear,  ' 
capt  with  clouds  which  threw  a  shade  over  the  distance  that 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  161 

gave  a  strong  relief  to  the  brightness  which  intervened  and 
extended  over  the  lake.  The  detached  promontories  which 
now  revealed  themselves  as  islands,  were  exquisitely  beauti- 
ful. After  passing  to  the  westernmost  side,  the  lake  appear- 
ed to  extend  very  far  to  the  north  along  the  base  of  the  ridge 
of  Puertachueloy  and  our  road  lying  along  the  shore  more 
than  two  miles;  it  was,  however,  comparatively  a  small  in- 
let, perhaps  three  miles  from  the  opposite  side,  to  the  cone  of 
Cabrera,  and  narrowing  as  we  approached  its  northern  ex- 
tremity, round  which,  and  along  the  opposite  shore,  the  road 
still  continued.  At  this  northern  extremitv  of  the  inlet,  the 
soil,  from  the  elevations  by  which  it  was  surrounded,  had  en- 
croached upon  the  ancient  bed  of  the  lake,  and  some  fine  to- 
bacco was  now  flourishing  where  the  water  formerly  flowed. 
Our  course  was  very  variable  from  Tapatapa,  a  hamlet  of 
comfortable  houses  which  we  passed  on  coming  to  the  strand  of 
the  lake;  it  was  first  south-west,  then  west — west-south-west, 
and  south ;  we  entered  the  pretty  village  of  St.  Joaquin 
about  nine  o'clock,  and  did  not  halt  till  we  reached  Gua- 
cara  a  quarter  before  twelve.  Our  course  had  now  been 
west  to  this  place,  where  the  day  being  more  sultry  than  we 
had  yet  experienced,  we  halted.  This  place  was  in  a  state 
of  impoverishment,  and  the  desolation  of  war ;  we  passed 
along  the  principal  street  which  we  had  entered,  without 
perceiving  any  house  in  which  the  accommodation  of  even  a 
temporary  rest  was  eligible ;  we  turned  the  angle  of  the 
street  to  the  south,  through  which  a  stream  of  pure  water 
rambled,  and  finding  a  shop  in  which  "  cocks  and  hens,  and 
all  manner  of  things,"  were  exposed  for  sale,  we  were  ac- 
commodated in  an  angle  of  a  room,  the  greater  part  of  the 
other  end  being  occupied  by  a  billiard  table ;  some  of  the 
poultry  and  the  eggs,  onions,  rice,  sugar,  and  some  fruit,  and 
small  baskets  we  purchased  ;  our  chocolate  was  prepared 
while  a  hollaca  of  stewed  pork,  peeled  potatoes,  with  spices 
and  onions,  was  under  way.     The  pulperia  was  very  com- 

21 


162  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

municative,  and  indulged  her  curiosity  in  turn  ;  but  she  was 
perfectly  obliging,  and  her  charge  for  what  she  sold  wus  so 
small,  that  I  was  apprehensive  she  had  wrongt-d  herself ;  but 
she  insisted  on  the  hermosa  senorita  (lovely  female)  taking 
some  fine  oranges  for  what  we  had  overpaid  her. 

The  population,  if  there  was  any  at  Guacara,  besides  a 
itw  old  men,  and  some  females,  did  not  appear ;  and  until 
we  had  entered  this  place,  there  was  not,  on  the  ground  we 
had  passed  over,  any  appearance  of  poverty,  though  there 
were  some  wrecks  of  the  war.  In  the  morning,  about  four 
miles  before  we  reached  Guacara,  we  saw  a  beautiful  dipt 
hedge  in  front  of  a  flourishing  plantation ;  it  resembled  in 
form  those  yew  hedges  so  much  in  vogue  half  a  century  ago, 
or  those  dipt  quicksets  which  are  seen  in  the  state  of  De- 
laware, but  neither  yew  nor  hawthorn  could  rival  it  for  beau- 
ty ;  it  was  composed  oi  lime  trees,  and  the  Jruit  in  every  stage 
of  growth  were  abundant,  pale  and  deep  green,  pale  and 
saffron  yellow ;  a  civil  domestic,  who  was  as  curious  in  his 
admiration  of  us  as  we  were  of  the  hedge,  ingenuously  pluck- 
ed a  couple  of  dozen,  and  handed  them  to  us,  highly  gratifi- 
ed as  it  seemed  that  they  were  acceptable. 

After  leaving  Guacara,  at  some  distance,  we  passed 
through  a  small,  but  not  so  impoverished  a  place,  called 
Guaco,  and  being  not  very  distant,  we  proceeded  slowly 
along  through  St.  Diego ;  permitting  our  mules  to  take 
their  ovr  n  impulse,  and  at  half  past  five  crossed  the  plain,  upon 
which  the  principal  street  of  Valencia  opens  its  rising  length. 
On  the  line  of  our  approach  to  Valencia  the  whole  way  from 
Tapatapa,  we  had  the  mountain  ridge  on  our  right,  nearly 
parallel  with  the  road,  only  where  the  limbs  thrown  out  from 
the  mountain  side  rendered  it  preferable  to  make  a  small 
circuit  rather  than  climb  its  sides.  The  lake  was  constantly 
on  our  left,  at  times  intercepted  to  the  view  by  plantations 
in  prosperity  or  in  ruin  ;  many  were  in  the  latter  condi- 
tion ;  though  we  saw,  in  the  course  of  our  journey,  that 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  163 

some  had  been  already  redeemed,  and  were  undergoing  the 
preparation  for  cuhure,  or  in  actual  production.  Many- 
houses  that  bespoke  former  sumptuousness,  were  in  the  state 
in  which  the  war  left  them ;  contiguous  to  one  of  these  unal- 
tered ruins,  the  ground  had  been  handsomely  fenced  with 
saplings,  six  feet  high,  and  four  or  five  inches  apart,  laced 
near  the  head  and  base  with  those  natural  ropes  [bejuca)  which 
grow  in  such  variety  and  abundance  in  the  ever-present  for- 
ests. Within  the  fence  an  elegant  picture  of  an  indigo 
patch  was  distinctly  seen  through  the  fence,  the  green  tops 
of  the  plants,  just  rising  above  the  ground,  forming  long 
selvidges,  at  about  six  inches  apart ;  but  this  newly  restored 
plantation  appeared  like  a  gap  in  the  long  line  of  wild  vege- 
tation, which  rose  round  it  on  all  sides ;  several  roads  or 
lanes  led  towards  the  lake,  which  was  about  from  three  to 
four  miles  on  our  left ;  but  in  other  places  the  scene  of  hus- 
bandry was  pleasing,  as  well  for  the  activity  as  the  gay  as- 
pect of  the  cultivators,  who,  when  sufficiently  contiguous, 
generally  gave  us  a  complimentary  nod  and  smile,  and  some 
phrase  of  satisfaction  which  wc  could  not  distinctly  under- 
stand. Confidence  every  where  appeared,  which  I  had  not 
expected,  because  Morales  was  at  that  moment  desolating 
and  plundering  the  country  contiguous  to  Maracaibo,  and 
menacing  Truxillo,  Merida  ;  and  Puerto  Cabello,  only  twen- 
ty-two miles  from  Valencia,  was  still  occupied  by  the  Span- 
iards. So  confident  had  the  people  become,  after  Morales 
had  been  defeated  at  Naguanagua,  within  sight  of  Valencia. 
The  road,  as  we  approached  Valencia,  was  at  the  very 
skirt  of  the  mountain,  which  threw  out  many  limbs  in  a 
fantastic,  and  yet  a  sort  of  uniformity  of  projection,  present- 
ing between  them,  nooks  or  recesses,  in  which  towns  or  vil- 
lages constantly  appeared.  As  we  came  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  Valencia,  one  of  those  promontories  thrust  its  pro- 
longation across  the  line  of  our  march  ;  it  was  covered  with 
shaggy  forest  trees,  and  its  sides  steep,  and  the  extremity 


i64  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

on  the  plain  exhibited  a  vast  body  of  stupendous  rocks, 
which  appeared  to  threaten  all  things  beneath  their  shadow, 
but  were  held  together  by  the  thick  twining  limbs  of  some 
giant  sycophants,  which  entwined  the  rocks,  resembling  ivy 
in  the  manner  of  vegetation,  but  of  greater  magnitude  ;  wc 
were  under  the  necessity  of  winding  round  this  rude  pro- 
montory, which  was  between  two  and  three  miles  from  the 
city,  which  now  broke  upon  us,  in  a  very  impressive  pic- 
ture. The  line  of  the  great  ridge  had  receded  with  the 
south-west  side  of  this  savage  declivity,  which  presented  an 
arid  face,  furrowed  by  deep  ravines.  At  the  distance  of  four 
miles,  a  spacious  verdant  plain,  which  inclined  on  our  left  to 
the  lake  three  miles  distant,  and  to  the  low  plain  of  Naguana- 
gua  on  our  right,  presented  the  numerous  horse  and  foot 
paths  which  led  to  and  concentred  in  the  city,  indicating  a 
considerable  population. 

We  had  crossed  the  plain,  better  than  a  mile,  when  a  spa- 
cious street  opened  upon  us,   in  its  length   sloping  towards 
us  ;    and  a  lively  rivulet  cast  out  numerous  rills,  winding 
towards  the  valley  on  our  right ;   a  bridge  of  unusual  neat- 
ness crossed  the  rivulet,  and  nearly  as  broad  as  the  street,  of 
which  it  was  the  eastern  extremity  ;  a  spacious  semicircular 
platform  was  constructed  on  each  side,  over  the  arch,   with 
benches  of  masonry,  of  excellent  workmanship,  and  covered 
with  a  coat  of  lime  plaster,  wrought  in  great  perfection. 
It  was  the  Gloriete^   the  work  set  on  foot  by  Morillo,  but 
wrought  by  patriotic  hands  ;   in  the  execution  of  this  work, 
Morillo  employed  the  officers  of  the  Colombian  army,  whom 
the  fortune  of  war  had  placed  in  his  vile  hands.     They  were 
brought  from  their  prisons  in  irons,  and  with  irons  on  their 
legs  ;  they  were  compelled  to  execute  this  work,  under  the 
charge  of  miscreants  whose  orders  were  any  thing  but  hu- 
man ;  in  this  warm  climate,  for  the  sun's  rays  are  more  ar- 
dent here  than  in  any  part  of  the  valley  of  Aragua  or  of  Cara- 
cas, they  were  compelled  to  make  the  mortar  ,  carry  loads  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  165 

brick  and  stone  on  their  shoulders,  and  execute  their  task  in 
the  mid- day  heat.  We  viewed  the  workmanship  with  pe- 
culiar gratification,  not  knowing  its  history ;  but  we  had 
some  compensation  for  the  pain  with  which  we  heard 
its  history  narrated  by  a  colonel,  who  was  one  of  the 
constructors  of  the  Gloriete,  whom  we  had  the  plea- 
sure to  know  in  Colonel  Urslar.  He  now  commanded  in 
Valencia,  and  had  but  a  short  time  before  given  the  Spa- 
niards a  signal  defeat  at  Naguanagua,  within  three  miles 
of  Valencia  on  the  north  side  :  the  action  was  witnessed 
from  the  streets,  and  even  from  the  Gloriete^  being  the  last 
attempt  made  by  the  Spaniards  on  that  city. 

We  continued  to  ascend  the  sloping  street,  and  it  being 
Sunday,  the  appearance  of  our  costume  attracted  many  a 
bright  eye,  and  particularly  the  rosy- cheeked  member  of 
our  party.  We  also  glanced  at  the  beauties  of  Valencia,  as 
we  had  heard  they  were  more  proud  than  the  ladies  of  other 
cities  ;  they  did  not  appear  as  fair  as  their  country-women  at 
Caracas,  but  their  features  were  striking  for  regularity — and 
they  seemed  to  know  they  had  eyes — with  which  perhaps 
their  brilliancy  made  them  acquainted.  Whether  it  was  that 
they  put  on  their  best  apparel  and  their  best  smiles  and 
dimples,  for  the  sabbath-day,  it  is  certain  they  looked  lively 
and  interesting. 

The  barracks  stand  on  the  left  of  the  street,  and  the  offi- 
cers appeared  to  have  just  left  parade,  and  gazed  with  as 
much  apparent  curiosity  as  the  ladies — and  put  questions, 
such  as  are  asked  every  where  in  such  cases,  but  which  none 
of  them  could  yet  answer.  The  prolongation  of  this  street 
continues  the  whole  length  of  the  city,  and  about  half-way 
its  length  forms  the  south  side  of  the  Plaza  or  great  square. 
Our  courier  Vincent  had  already  found  the  residence  of  the 
respectable  patriot  Fernando  Peiialver,  a  senator  of  Colombia, 
which  stood  in  the  continuation  of  the  street,  which  forms 
the  west  side  of  the  Plaza.     The  church  is  on  the  east  side ; 


166  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  north  occupied  by  spacious  dwellings,  and  the  west  side 
with  some  spacious  houses  two  stories  high,  one  of  which  at 
that  time  was  military  quarters  for  the  staff,  and  holds  a 
melancholy  but  signal  place  in  the  history  of  the  revolution. 

It  was  half  past  five  when  we  rode  up  to  the  ample  gates, 
which  were  instantly  thrown  open,  and  we  entered  the  neat 
portal  to  the  patio ;  where  we  were  cordially  received  by 
Seiiorita  Penalver,  the  niece  of  the  respectable  owner,  who 
conducted  Elizabeth,  and  invited  us  to  a  spacious  saloon, 
and  ordered  refreshments.  The  domestics  of  Colombia,  in 
families  like  this,  are  diligent,  obliging,  and  punctual ;  or- 
ders do  not  require  to  be  repeated,  and  the  hospitable  usages 
^re  so  well  understood,  that  orders  are  never  necessary.  We 
were  already  at  ease,  and  treated  like  old  acquaintances.  Se- 
fior  Penalver  was  at  his  plantation,  about  ten  miles  south, 
and  restoring  it  from  the  dilapidation  which  his  virtues  had 
earned  from  Spanish  vengeance ;  he  was  a  widower,  and  his 
niece,  and  a  daughter  of  eleven,  were  the  only  inmates ;  his 
nephew,  Ferdinand,  a  noble  youth  of  sixteen,  was  with  his 
uncle. 

Our  mules  had  been  carried  to  the  coral,  forage  ordered, 
and,  as  night  came  on,  a  crowd  of  the  pretty  faces,  perhaps 
some  of  whom  we  had  seen  on  our  way,  thronged  in,  some 
of  whom,  in  the  simplicity  of  their  hearts,  with  witty  mirth 
enquired  whether  the  bonita  Senorita  purchased  the  colour 
on  her  cheeks  at  the  modista's^  or  had  it  in  the  natural  way  ? 

The  company  for  the  whole  evening  was  numerous,  and 
of  both  sexes ;  and  as  we  were  not  profoundly  ready  and 
conversant  in  la  lengua  Castellana^  the  good  nature  of  the 
young  ladies  was  exercised,  in  the  desire  to  understand  as 
well  as  to  encourage  the  Senorita  Americana  to  hablar.  I 
have  no  where  seen  people  more  cheerful  and  innocently 
gay,  or  unaffectedly  solicitous  to  render  themselves  agreeable 
and  useful,  than  the  ladies  whom  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of 
knowing,   in  their  families,  in  Valencia.     This  disposi- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  i&7 

tion  indeed  prevails  every  where,  and  I  have  not  seen  more 
than  one  or  two  in  the  country,  who  from  their  demeanour 
could  be  suspected  of  affectation. 

The  good  Senorita  took  my  daughter  to  her  own  cham- 
ber, and  lieutenant  Bache  and  myself  had  each  a  chamber 
assigned  to  us.  The  first  night's  rest,  and  the  first  morning's 
intercourse,  made  us  as  much  at  home  as  we  could  be  where 
usages  and  language  were  not  the  same.  It  was  Monday 
morning,  the  19th,  and  the  climate  was  sensibly  warmer 
than  that  of  Caracas ;  the  freshness  of  the  air,  after  a  balmy 
night's  repose,  bid  us  be  up  and  doing  very  soon.  The 
journey  had  been  rather  desultory  than  fatiguing  or  rapid, 
and  might,  with  good  horses,  be  accomplished  in  two  days 
without  any  fatigue.  But  mules  being  the  only  mode  by 
which  baggage  is  transported,  and  in  a  country  where  there 
are  neither  taverns,  inns,  nor  beds  on  the  road,  and  their  own. 
kitchen  and  couch,  food  and  raiment,  are  indispensable  to 
those  whose  habits  are  foreign,  the  sober  passage  upon  mules 
is  the  best  adapted  to  the  actual  state  of  the  country ;  for,  al- 
though the  route  from  the  foot  of  Cuquisias  owes  nothing 
to  art  for  the  construction  of  a  road,  yet  the  unbroken  level 
of  the  plain  of  the  valley  of  Aragua  may  be  travelled  on  a 
velocipede ;  there  are  no  wheel  carriages  any  where  in  the 
country,  and,  if  there  were,  they  could  not,  without  some  im- 
provement of  the  mule- path,  pass  even  between  Victoria 
and  Valencia ;  and,  after  passing  the  field  of  Carabobo^  the 
path  is  scarcely  safe  on  horseback,  and  mules  alone  afford  con- 
fidence and  security. 

I  had  scarcely  prepared  my  face  and  apparel  for  the  day's 
intercourse,  when  the  military  commandant.  Colonel  Urslar, 
was  so  obliging  as  to  tender  his  good  offices,  and  placed  in 
my  hands  letters  fowarded  to  him  from  Caracas,  and  one  from 
General  Paez,  intimating  a  wish  that  I  should  remain  a  few 
days,  and  that  before  Thursday  he  intended  to  be  in  Valencia. 
His  chief  of  staff,  Colonel  Newberry,  repeated  the  same  wish, 


16S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

and  I  assented.  The  general,  however,  had  received  orders 
to  concentre  a  force  at  Tulmcro,  and  to  pursue  a  plan  which 
had  in  view  the  expulsion  or  capture  of  Morales — and  I  had 
not  the  pleasure  of  the  proposed  meeting.  Monday  was, 
therefore,  devoted  to  the  household  gods,  and  the  inter- 
course incident  to  that  innocent  curiosity  excited  by  the  first 
visit  of  an  American  young  lady  to  their  beautiful  city  ;  and 
we  had  much  reason  to  be  gratified,  as  well  by  the  numbers, 
as  by  the  courtesy  and  unreserved  familiarity  of  the  ladies 
whom  we  had  the  pleasure  of  becoming  acquainted  with. 
There  was  no  ceremony  or  constraint,  beyond  the  mere  ci- 
vilities of  reception  and  the  complimentary  adios  at  depar- 
ture ;  and,  notwithstanding  some  deficiency  on  both  sides 
of  our  respective  languages,  our  occasional  stumbling  over 
the  moods  and  tenses,  genders  and  persons,  cordiality  became 
our  ready  interpreters,  without  for  an  instant  disconcerting 
us  by  that  grin  of  inanity  and  indubitable  folly,  which 
so  often,  in  some  other  countries,  treats  the  stranger  with 
vulgar  and  stupid  sarcasm  or  satire,  for  no  better  reason  than 
that  the  stranger's  knowledge  of  the  vernacular  tongue  is  not 
equal  to  that  which  the  native  has  no  other  merit  in  knowing, 
than  that  of  being  habituated  from  infancy  to  its  use  ! 

Many  military  gentlemen,  foreigners  and  natives,  were  our 
visitors,  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  acquiring  the  esteem, 
and  its  manifestation  in  practical  good  offices,  of  the  worthy 
veteran  Colonel  Urslar,  then  in  command,  during  the  ab- 
sence of  General  Paez.  The  mid-day  was  devoted  to  the 
perusal  of  my  letters,  and  answering  letters  to  be  dispatched 
by  a  friend,  who  was  to  proceed  the  next  day  for  Caracas, 
and  the  evening  carried  us,  on  the  invitation  of  his  good  lady, 
to  Colonel  Urslar's,  where  we  found  a  number  of  agreeable 
persons  of  both  sexes;  and  entered  into  entire  sympathy  with 
the  worthy  colonel's  excellent  suite  of  military  musicians, 
and  the  style  in  which  they  beat  off"  the  tatoo  from  his  quar- 
ters at  nine  o'clock.     Indeed,  I  never  heard  a  finer  corps  ot 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  169 

drums  and  fifes.  We  spent  the  evening  agreeably,  had  the 
Usual  chocolate  with  coffee  served  around,  cake,  sweetmeats, 
and  those  who  chose  it,  liqueur  or  claret ;  and  retired,  as  is 
usual,  about  ten  o'clock. 

Colonel  Urslar  is  a  native  of  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  I 
think  of  Alsace,  that  country  so  fruitful  of  able  and  gallant 
soldiers.  The  wars  of  the  French  revolution,  which  had 
made  him  a  soldier,  left  him  a  reduced  captain,  at  about 
twenty-five  years  of  age.  The  difficulty  of  the  times,  and 
of  forming  new  habits,  led  his  mind  to  the  new  world,  where 
a  field  for  renown  and  fortune  appeared  to  be  prepared  for 
the  disbanded  soldiers  of  Europe ;  he  arrived  at  Angostura, 
in  1817,and  the  discernment  of  Bolivar  placed  him  in  the  rank 
of  major.  He  was  thenceforward  engaged  in  all  the  battles  and 
inarches  which  occurred  in  the  plains,  at  Coxede,  Victoria, 
in  the  two  battles  on  the  same  glorious  field  of  Carabobo, 
at  Boyacca,  and  was  distinguished  alike  by  the  discipline 
of  his  regiment  of  grenadiers  of  the  guard,  to  which  his 
talents  had  promoted  him,  and  by  the  hardiness  and  cheer- 
fulness with  which  he  endured  the  privations  of  those  inde- 
scribable conflicts — for  months  without  a  shoe,  and  often  re- 
duced to  the  ordinary  Osnaburg  shirt  and  trowsers,  and  a 
straw  hat,  in  common  with  the  rank  and  file  ;  rarely  mount- 
ing a  horse,  though  entitled,  by  his  rank,  to  do  so;  prefer- 
ring, by  his  example,  to  inspire  his  corps  with  respect  and 
confidence,  and  to  assure  discipline,  without  the  imputation 
of  having  spared  himself  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties. 

In  passing  the  handsome  bridge  on  our  entrance  to  Va- 
lencia, I  noticed  the  labours  prescribed  for  the  Colombian 
officers.  The  fortune  of  war  had  made  Urslar  a  prisoner  to 
Morillo,  and  the  colonel  repeatedly  pointed  out  to  me  the 
positions  and  the  parts  of  the  structure  to  which  he  had  con- 
tributed his  manual  labour,  nearly  destitute  of  clothing,  and 
without  hat  or  shoes,  bearing  a  manacle  and  a  burden,  ex- 
posed to  a  fervid  sun,  but  a  most  scorching  and  more  in- 

-22 


170  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

sufferable  and  constant  vituperation  and  insolence  from  the 
Spanish  soldiery ;  and,  sad  to  say,  not  from  the  humblest  6f 
the  troops,  who  rather  compassionated  than  aggravated  the 
evils  of  their  condition. 

The  history  of  his  campaigns  would  interest  any  man  of 
sensibility,  and  would  afford  an  example  and  an  illustration 
of  the  hardships  borne  by  the  Colombian  army,  such  as  have 
probably  never  been  endured  and  overcome  in  any  part  of 
this  globe.  On  more  than  one  occasion  he  was  marked  out 
for  military  execution,  but  rescued  by  some  casualty,  which 
he  said  bore  an  appearance  of  miracle ;  he  was,  however,  at 
a  favourable  moment  seized  upon  by  Bolivar,  who  appreci- 
ated his  worth,  exchanged,  and  restored  to  his  companeros 
the  grenadiers  ;  and  a  few  months  before  we  reached  Valen- 
cia, he  had  the  gratification,  by  skill  and  intrepidity,  and  the 
reputation  he  held  in  the  estimation  of  the  enemy,  to  out- 
general Morales  at  Naguanagua,  and  lead  to  the  defeat  of  his 
veterans  with  a  handful  of  raw  troops. 

Morillo  having  secret  communications  from  the  city  of 
Valencia,  stating  that  the  force  in  garrison  at  that  city  had 
been  reduced  by  detachments  to  Caracas,  which  had  been 
menaced  for  that  purpose,  resolved  to  march  from  Puerto  Ca- 
bello  for  Valencia  with  1200  men  of  his  best  troops.  The 
first  intimation  of  his  approach  was  the  appearance  of  his  ad- 
vanced posts  on  the  heights  above  Naguanagua,  about  four 
miles  distant,  and  in  full  view  of  the  city. 

Valencia  stands  upon  the  summit  of  ground  not  suffi- 
ciently elevated  to  be  denominated  a  hill ;  on  three  parts 
of  the  ground,  that  is,  the  south,  east,  and  west  sides  of 
the  circle,  the  streets  decline  in  a  gradual  line  from  the 
Great  Square,  which  is  the  most  elevated  position.  The 
ground  on  the  west  side  is  not  embraced  in  this  range, 
being  itself  a  gradual  ascent  from  the  Great  Square, 
to  the  foot  of  one  of  those  characteristic  points  resem- 
bling promontories,   which  overlooks  the  whole  city  and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  171 

plain,  at  a  few  yards  from  a  suburb ;  all  the  streets, 
like  those  of  all  the  towns  and  cities  we  saw,  intersect  each 
other  at  right  angles.  The  lofty  mountain  ridges  of  the 
chain  presented  themselves  on  the  north ;  the  lake  of  Valen- 
cia to  the  south,  and  extending  to  the  full  capacity  of  naked 
vision  to  the  south-east,  the  plain  sloped  in  a  gentle  descent 
from  the  line  of  approach  from  the  eastward  to  the  lake,  and 
from  the  same  road  line  had  a  more  steep  descent  towards 
the  west  and  north-west,  or  mountain  side.  The  whole  of 
this  circle  was  commanded  by  the  view  from  the  Great 
Square. 

The  mountain  ridge  on  the  north  presented  its  bleak  and 
arid  sides  to  the  south,  an  apparent  but  broken  semicircle 
or  half  moon,  of  about  two  miles  diameter,  from  east  to 
west,  and  three  miles  depth  from  south  to  north,  of  which 
the  mountain  spurs  in  front  and  rear  of  the  city,  formed 
the  extremities  or  horns  of  the  crescent,  between  which  the 
city  stands  elevated,  and  the  space  between  is  occupied  by 
an  irregular  platform  or  flat  valley  ;  beyond  this  the  vast  body 
of  the  mountain  protrudes  and  bellies  in,  within  the  line  of 
the  half  moon  formed  by  the  superior  ridge.  This  body, 
which  appears  like  a  mountain  which  had  slidden  down  from 
the  side  of  the  Paramo,  bears  the  name  of  Naguanagua,  and 
a  small  village  immediately  at  its  base  bears  the  same  name. 

The  common  track  to  Puerto  Cabello  lies  over  this  lower 
plain  and  protruding  mountain,  and  takes  the  usual  winding 
course  of  ascent. common  to  such  steep  and  rugged  declivi- 
ties. Some  huts  occupy  little  platforms,  on  the  points  where 
the  direction  of  the  path  is  changed  :  and  the  track  becomes 
indistinct  from  the  city,  as  soon  as  the  summit  or  ravine  on 
the  north-east  side  of  this  lower  mountain  is  passed. 

The  appearance  of  the  royal  force,  at  only  four  miles  dis- 
tance, spread  consternation  in  the  city.  There  was  no  ex- 
pectation of  such  a  visit,  and  but  few  troops  ;  but  the  com- 
mandant was  to  perform  his  duty  ;  and  his  first  measure  was 


172  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

to  put  the  drums  and  bugles  upon  immediate  service.  The 
regular  beats  of  discipline  and  alarm  were  arranged,  and  re- 
gularly performed,  as  if  he  had  five  thousand  men  ;  while  the 
whole  population  was  called  forth  to  sustain  their  homes  and 
families.  So  long  as  the  royal  troops  lingered  on  the  sides 
of  the  mountain,  halting  at  every  angle  to  bring  up  strag- 
glers,— as  not  more  than  one  person  at  a  time  could  descend 
or  ascend  through  the  greatest  part  of  the  way, — so  long 
did  the  tardiness  of  the  royalists  afford  time  to  put  muskets 
in  the  hands  of  men  and  boys,  who  had  never  before  handled 
fire-arms ;  such  as  had  horses  or  mules  he  ordered  to  come 
forth,  and  formed  into  squadrons  with  lances,  and  taught 
them,  in  the  very  act  of  presenting  themselves  on  the  face  of 
the  city,  in  sight  of  the  enemy ;  he  taught  them  to  march 
by  files,  and  face  to  the  front  or  flank ;  to  break  off  at  com- 
mand and  form  again ;  and,  being  all  expert  horsemen,  he 
made  them  move  rapidly  into  sections  of  eight  and  twelve 
in  front,  and  to  wheel  in  the  same  order.  These  drills  of 
the  few  militia  and  the  regulars  were  kept  incessantly  in  mo- 
tion, by  having  two  parts  at  rest  and  a  third  at  exercise,  and 
in  small  divisions  at  the  extremities  and  centre  of  the  north 
face  of  the  city.  Both  forces  were  thus  in  view  of  each  other 
two  days,  distant  about  three  miles  ;  the  royalists,  as  soon  as 
the  night  of  the  third  day  came  on,  descended  to  the  small 
valley  and  the  village  in  silence ;  and  in  the  morning  ap- 
peared drawn  up  in  order  of  battle,  in  the  plain  below.  The 
patriots  were  immediately  formed  in  line ;  their  regulars, 
amounting  only  to  three  hundred  men,  forming  an  advanced 
corps,  took  a  conspicuous  rising  position  on  the  left,  or  on  the 
enemy's  right  flank  ;  while  the  militia  were  formed  into  two 
columns,  a  hundred  yards  in  the  rear  of  the  right  flank  of  the 
regulars ;  the  cavalry,  and  even  the  inhabitants  who  came 
only  as  spectators,  were  persuaded  to  assemble,  and  form  a 
line  on  a  platform  oblique  to  the  Spanish  left,  with  an  assur- 
ance that  their  presence  was  all  that  would  be  required. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  173 

Meanwhile,  couriers  had  been  despatched  to  seek  General 
Paez,  who  was  on  his  march,  to  advise  him  of  the  exi- 
gency, and  the  presence  of  the  enemy ;  stratagem  was  thus 
resorted  to,  in  order  to  induce  the  Spanish  commander  to 
believe  that  General  Paez,  with  a  strong  division,  and  the 
grenadiers  of  the  guard,  was  on  his  march,  and  hourly  ex- 
pected. This  display,  in  the  face  of  the  Spanish  force,  had 
all  the  effect  that  was  proposed ;  and  other  incidents,  to  which 
the  circumstances  gave  rise,  contributed  to  make  a  strong 
impression  :  for  the  Spaniards,  instead  of  marching  directly 
to  the  city,  which  they  could  have  done,  halted,  and  assumed 
a  corresponding  position  on  the  base  of  the  mountain,  where 
they  could  not  be  attacked  in  front.  Colonel  Urslar  had 
been  previously  so  much  indisposed,  as  not  to  be  able  to 
march  with  General  Paez,  as  was  expected,  when  the  ge- , 
neral  left  Valencia ;  and  though  he  put  every  thing  in  mo- 
tion, and  saw  all  the  dispositions  he  had  directed,  it  was  not 
supposed,  by  the  Spanish  chief,  that  he  was  at  that  time  in 
Valencia. 

Before  the  dawn  of  the  next  day  the  patriot  troops  were 
ordered  to  descend,  and  appeared  on  the  verge  of  the  valley, 
within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  enemy.  The  citizens,  who 
were  only  ostensible  soldiers,  continued  posted  to  the  right,  on 
the  brow  of  a  ravine,  which  lay  obliquely  to  the  right  of  the 
patriot  line,  and  closed  the  path,  which  extended  2X2ir€spectful 
distance,  upon  the  left  flank  of  the  enemy  ;  answering  every 
purpose  of  an  efficient  force  in  reserve,  and  actually  prevent- 
ing communications  by  emissaries ;  the  left  of  the  patriot 
line  was  covered  by  the  steep  inaccessible  declivities  of  the 
western  horn  of  the  natural  crescent.  By  a  predisposition  it 
was  contrived  to  be  communicated  in  the  Spanish  camp, 
that  Paez  was  expected ;  and  Urslar,  having  overcome  his 
indisposition,  by  the  exertions  he  had  found  it  necessary  to 
make,  appeared  in  his  usual  conspicuous  uniform,  and  on 
his  well  known  roan  charger,  in  the  plain  in  front  of  the 


174  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA* 

enemy.  A  fugitive  from  punishment,  who  had  been  a  do= 
mestic  of  Urslar,  had  been  taken  into  the  service  of  Morillo, 
and  was  the  first  to  make  known  to  the  Spanish  chief  the 
presence  of  Urslar,  whence  it  was  inferred  that  he  had  ar- 
rived by  forced  marches,  and  that  Paez  was  not  far  off.  The 
royalists  had  no  cavalry,  they  would  have  been  more  per- 
nicious than  useful  on  the  ground  they  occupied  ;  but,  in 
order  to  profit  by  the  absence  of  Paez,  and  accomplish  the 
destruction  of  the  force  drawn  from  the  city,  they  sent  guerilla 
parties  into  the  valley  near  the  village.  A  small  squadron  of 
about  ninety  volunteers,  mounted,  and  with  lances  only,  and 
and  some  expert  Colombian  marksmen,  were  precipitated  into 
the  plain,  and  succeeded  in  cutting  off  many  of  the  Spanish 
cazadores,  and  compelling  those  who  escaped  to  fall  back 
upon  the  village.  At  the  same  moment  that  this  evolution 
was  so  happily  accomplished,  the  regulars  were  thrown  out 
in  loose  order,  with  directions  to  form  at  a  spot  designated, 
and  visible  from  their  position,  and  be  prepared  there  to 
move  in  column  under  the  smoke  of  their  own  vollev — Urs- 
lar  led  this  column  in  person,  formed  them  as  proposed, 
commanded  the  fire,  and  led  the  charge  with  a  muscjuetoon, 
which  he  discharged  as  the  signal  for  the  bayonet ;  the  mi- 
litia were  directed  bv  skilful  subalterns  who  understood  their 
chief,  and  as  the  main  attack  was  directed  on  the  right  of  the 
Spaniards,  and  their  left  had  been  disconcerted  by  the  havoc 
committed  among  their  light  troops,  either  through  panic  or 
surprise,  or  a  persuasion  that  the  patriot  force  was  more  than 
superior  in  numbers,  and  that  the  troops  under  Paez  were  al- 
ready present,  they  fell  back  ;  the  prompt  and  compact  move- 
ment of  the  centre  was  equally  successful.  The  brunt  of  the 
conflict,  however,  was  on  the  right,  which  Morales  himself 
commenced — the  Spaniards  were  once  rallied,  and  formed  to 
attack  the  gallant  battalion  under  Urslar,  who  had  already 
formed  his  column  on  a  natural  jettee  projecting  from  the 
mountain ;  this  position  had  the  advantage  of  fire,  and  was 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  175 

adapted  to  fatigue  the  enemy,  if  he  should  attempt  to  ascend  ; 
but  an  accidental  approach  of  the  squadron  of  cavalry  from 
the  left,  placed  the  Spanish  right  in  such  a  position  as  to 
enable  the  cavalry,  by  an  easy  evolution,  to  charge  their  left 
flank  ;  and  this  they  were  ordered  to  execute,  while  the  in- 
fantry, passing  from  the  jetteey  attacked  the  right  of  Mora- 
les' line — who  did  not  wait  for  the  close  encounter,  but  re- 
tired in  good  order  up  the  declivity  beyond  the  village,  where 
they  were  suffered  to  remain  unmolested  in  consequence  of 
the  closing  of  the  day.  The  citizens,  who  had  rendered  such 
good  service  by  their  bare  appearance,  were  now  ordered  to 
return  to  their  repose ;  and  a  courier  announced  that  Paez 
would  be  in  the  field  early  in  the  morning.  He  arrived  at 
midnight;  his  troops  had  bivouaced  on  the  plain,  seven 
miles  from  the  city,  where  they  were  furnished,  by  the  ac- 
tivity of  the  citizens,  with  every  comfort  that  they  required. 
Before  dawn  the  patriots  were  in  motion,  and  a  select  corps 
had  scaled  the  heights  and  taken  a  position,  unseen,  in  the 
rear  of  the  Spaniards,  separated  by  a  deep  and  steep  ravine. 
But  the  attack  was  made  consentaneously  on  the  village 
and  on  the  heights  upon  the  enemy's  rear ;  the  resistance 
was,  as  Urslar  nobly  acknowledged,  unquestionably  daring 
and  valorous.  The  patriots,  either  from  the  difficulty  of  the 
ascent,  or  from  design,  retired  by  the  west  of  the  village,  and 
there  formed ;  the  Spaniards,  elated  by  this  mistaken  ap- 
pearance of  discomfiture,  again  moved  down  to  the  plain 
in  good  order ;  but  they  had  scarcely  passed  the  west  side 
of  the  village,  when  Paez,  who  had  posted  his  lancers  on  the 
east,  charged  upon  their  left  flank  and  rear  at  the  same  in- 
stant, and  the  struggle  was  short  but  sanguinary :  the  battle  of 
Naguanagua  became  a  victory  which  merits  admiration  ;  two 
hundred  of  the  Spanish  troops  were  made  prisoners  with 
their  arms;  three  hundred  remained  on  the  field  dead  or 
wounded  ;  and  much  ammunition  was  taken  ;  Morales  re- 
tired to  the  Sierra  with  the  remains  of  his  force,  and  pro- 


176  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ceeded  with  celerity  to  Puerto  Cabello,  about  twenty  miles, 
by  the  road  of  La  Trinicera.  The  defeat  was  signal  in  every 
respect ;  the  Spanish  force  never  after  appeared  in  that  quar- 
ter. Valencia  had  suffered  preeminently  by  the  war,  and 
the  brutality  of  successive  commanders ;  the  recollection  ol 
the  butcheries  and  perfidies  this  city  had  suffered,  under 
every  chief,  from  Monteverde  and  Morillo,  to  Boves  and 
Morales,  rendered  this  victory  a  subject  of  just  and  general 
congratulation.  The  valour  and  judgment  which  had,  with 
a  small  handful  of  regulars,  not  three  hundred  in  number, 
directed  by  a  man  of  experience  and  intrepidity,  maintained 
the  position,  baffled  a  veteran,  and  held  him  in  check  with  so 
much  skill  and  success,  were  justly  appreciated.  Urslar,  as 
he  merited,  had  the  thanks  of  the  general,  and  possessed,  as 
he  merited,  the  esteem  and  love  of  all  classes.  We  found 
him  in  possession  of  these  most  grateful  of  distinctions  and 
honours,  as  high  in  the  public  estimation  as  in  the  devotion 
of  his  gallant  grenadiers,  whom  he  had  so  often  led  to  vic- 
tory. He  had  a  short  time  before  our  arrival  married  a  lady 
who  appreciated  his  worth. 


177 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Grenadiers  of  the  Colombian  Guard — compared  with  other  troops — resem- 
blance of  Bengal  sepahis — general  ideas  of  the  militaiy  of  Colombia — foreign 
troops  cannot  act  in  Colombia — nor  they  in  a  cold  climate. — Privations  of  the 
war — the  roads — useful  precautions  to  travellers. — Our  party  augmented  by  a 

■  Sergeant  of  Grenadiers  as  a  guide — character- — anticipations  of  roads — delay 
at  Valencia — cause. — Dr.  Murphy — Senor  Peiialver. — Horrible  treachery  and 
massacre  by  Boves — Dr.  Pena  evades  assassination. 

The  grenadiers  of  the  guard,  with  a  band  of  wind  in- 
struments, and  a  corps  de  tambour^  equal  to  any  I  had  ever 
heard,  seduced  me  to  the  parade,  where  I  had  the  gratifica- 
tion of  seeing  miUtary  movements  and  discipline  to  my  taste. 
This  corps  is  acknowledged  to  be  the  best  in  the  service, 
and  was  as  much  distinguished  for  its  valour  in  the  field  as 
its  character  in  quarters,  and  generous  esprit  du  corps*  On 
parade,  and  in  motion,  they  presented  to  my  eye  a  very  strik- 
ing resemblance  of  some  corps  of  Patau  sepahis  of  the 
Bengal  army.  The  greater  number  about  five  feet  ten  inch- 
es in  height,  some  about  six  feet,  none,  apparently,  below 
five  feet  eight ;  the  prevailing  complexion,  a  weather-beaten 
fair  or  brunette,  with  some  bloom  ;  about  two  of  ten,  brown 
or  darker  shades ;  and  one  or  two  in  a  company  with  crisp- 
ed hair ;  these  appeared  to  be  selected  on  account  of  sta- 
ture and  robustness.  In  no  part  of  the  world  are  the  people, 
generally,  more  athletic,  muscular,  and  fine  formed,  than  in 
Colombia ;  the  grenadiers  appeared  as  if  picked  for  models ; 
in  fact  they  were  a  selected  corps.  The  hair  lank,  black,  and 
cropped,  features  generally  handsome,  some,  particularly  the 
pioneers,  of  hard  features ;  their  aspects  cheerful ;  and  none 
seemed  to  be  above  twenty-five,  nor  under  eighteen  years. 
These  were  my  first  impressions :  there  may  have  been  some 

23 


178  VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA. 

younger  men,  and  even  some  as  old  as  thirty';  but  a  very  large 
portion  of  the  Colombian  troops,  in  all  parts,  seem  to  be 
under  twenty  years  of  age.  The  grenadiers  were,  there- 
fore, the  more  remarkable  and  imposing,  but  I  never  saw 
a  like  number  of  men  in  finer  health,  nor  so  uniformly  har- 
dy and  athletic. 

The  select  regiments  of  Patans,  Ouriahs,  and  Rohillas,  of 
Hindustan,  are  perhaps  taller,  but  with  rare  exceptions,  and 
not  so  round  or  full,  though  of  equally  handsome  visages,  and 
equally  susceptible  of  the  highest  discipline ;  but  they  could 
not  sustain  the  marches  and  privations  which  a  Colombian 
army  undergo  with  alacrity,  and  without  a  murmur.  The 
grenadiers  would  have  furnished  excellent  models  for  an 
Apollo,  or  a  Perseus.  Their  perceptible  characteristics,  self- 
satisfaction  and  energy.  This  corps  too  had  their  light  uni- 
form.s  well  preserved,  and  it  was  the  only  corps  1  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  who  were  uniformly  well  shod.  Their 
training  was  a  modification  of  the  Prussian  and  French  sys- 
tems, and  their  movements  in  elastic  triple  time,  which  gave 
an  ease  and  grace  to  their  motions,  and  prepared  the  habit  for 
an  increased  celerity  of  movement.  Their  arms  and  accou- 
trements were  in  good  order.  The  inverted  conical  leather 
corded  cap,  with  a  quitasol^  or  shade  over  the  eyes,  a  tri- co- 
loured cockade  and  a  small  tuft,  composed  the  head-dress, 
in  ordinary;  but,  on  extraordinary  occasions,  they  were  pro- 
vided with  the  lofty  mitre-shaped  bear-skin  caps,  with  large 
tassels,  and  a  platted  cord,  such  as  were  worn  by  the  French 
grenadiers,  having  a  gilt  grenade  in  front,  as  well  as  on  their 
coat  collars,  and  the  skirt  facing.  They  marched  in  perfect 
time,  and  wheeled  with  precision  on  tlie  shortest  lines. 

Of  their  faculties  for  war,  the  state  of  their  discipline  and 
the  victories  in  which  they  had  participated,  at  Coxede,  Ca- 
rabobo,  Boyacca,  and  in  numerous  minor  conflicts,  but,  above 
all,  the  constancy  and  fidelity  they  had  displayed  in  circum- 
stances most  appalling  and  disastrous,  had  given  them  a  very 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  -  179 

high  reputation  ;  indeed,  if  their  conduct  be  contrasted  with 
the  condition  of  the  population  from  which  they  were  drawn, 
at  the  commencement  of  the  revolution,  their  discipline  and 
character  altogether  present  a  most  extraordinary  example, 
and  the  evidence  of  what  may  be  done  by  a  mild  system, 
and  the  example  and  familiar  intercourse  of  officers  with 
their  comrades :  for  this  is  the  Colombian  system  ;  neither 
blows  nor  stripes  are  permitted  ;  they  could  never  succeed 
there ;  they  never  succeed  any  where  to  make  soldiers  that 
can  be  relied  on. 

The  facility  with  which  such  men  were  converted  into 
victors  and  veterans,  must  be  a  grateful  subject  of  reflection 
to  the  friends  of  freedom :  men  who,  in  1810,  trembled  at 
the  flash  of  a  thimble-full  of  gunpowder,  and  contemplated 
a  firelock  as  a  demon,  became  so  indifferent  to  the  fire  of 
battle,  that  they  have  frequently  attacked  the  artillerists  at  the 
muzzle  of  their  guns,  with  the  bayonet ;  often  by  charges 
of  cavalry,   carrying  no  weapon   but  the  lance.     It  may  be 
pertinent  to  remark,  here,  in  relation  to  some  notions  which 
prevail  as  to  the  horrible  consequences  of  a  whole  people 
being  rendered  so  susceptible  of  military  enterprise ;    the 
truth  is,  that  the  troops  of  Europe  are  incompetent  to  make 
any  durable  impression    in   those    countries — within  forty- 
miles  of  the  ocean  they  must  perish  of  the  climate — beyond 
that  distance,  of  hunger ;  they  must  retreat  or  starve.     On 
the  other  hand,  the  Colombian  troops  could  not  sustain  the 
rigors  of  a  cold  climate.     They  are  happily  adapted  to  the 
defence  of  their  own  country,  and  invincible  to  all  the  world, 
when  conducted  as  they  have  hitherto   been.     Indeed  the 
whole  population,  and  both  sexes,  have  undergone  a  change 
of  character,  produced  by  the  duration  and  savage  character 
of  the  war,  as  carried  on  by  the  Spaniards.     The  frequency 
of  peril,  has  taught  them  caution  as  well  as  courage ;   they 
do  not  now  apprehend  danger  when  there  is  none,  and  are 
prepared  against  it  when  it  happens. 


180  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

In  reference  to  the  disinterestedness  and  constancy  of  the 
native  troops  during  the  revolution  ; — the  vicissitudes  of  mili- 
tary marches,  and  the  scantiness  of  subsistence,  were  not  the 
only  traits  of  fortitude  and  fidelity — none  of  the  armies  of  Co- 
lombia had  magazines  for  subsistence,  nor  hospitals,  nor  even 
pay  or  clothing ;  a  whole  army  has  been  without  a  single  shoe, 
or  a  second  shirt.  The  climate  rendered  the  want  of  tents  not 
so  great  an  inconvenience,  but  clothing  of  some  kind  was  of 
absolute  necessity — and  that  necessity  could  not  be  supplied 
for  many  months  together.  Occasionally  one  or  two  reals 
a  week  were  issued,  some  weeks  not  even  a  real ;  an  occa- 
sional arrival,  from  the  United  States,  brought  a  few  suits 
of  clothing ;  but  the  credit  of  the  government  was  low,  and 
the  artifices  of  the  Spanish  agents  in  the  United  States,  who, 
by  what  means  is  not  certain,  had  secured  many  presses  in 
the  United  States,  produced  discredit,  by  pouring  forth 
calumny  on  the  revolution  and  its  leaders,  and  represent- 
ing the  cause  as  not  only  desperate,  but  despicable.  These 
odious  doings  cost  many  lives ;  and  interfered  materially, 
not  only  with  the  supplies,  that  would  otherwise  been  have 
furnished,  but  on  the  government  of  the  United  States. 
The  wants  and  sufferings  of  these  people  were  proportion- 
ably  aggravated,  and  in  contemplating  their  constancy, 
and  their  triumphs,  admiration  is  augmented,  as  the  par- 
ticular facts  are  discovered.  The  troops,  nevertheless,  did 
sometimes  shew  symptoms  of  discontent  and  disappoint- 
ment ;  but  there  is  no  instance  of  their  disobedience  to  or- 
ders, or  refusal  to  meet  an  enemy  ;  even  their  miseries  were 
forgotten  in  the  presence  of  an  enemy,  whose  barbarity  was 
perhaps  a  very  powerful  spring  of  action,  and  cause  of  uni- 
on among  the  native  troops.  Danger  seems  never  to  have 
been  apprehended,  when  they  had  officers  who  were  brave 
and  kind  to  them,  and  whose  talents  were  known,  and  cour- 
rage  exemplary  ;  with  these  the  roar  of  artillery,  and  the  re- 
verberations of  the  Andes,  made  "  cheerful  music."  Thev 
sometimes  developed  faculties  adapted  to  particular  service 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  181 

in  an  extraordinary  manner.  The  riflemen  of  the  valley  of 
the  Cauca,  I  have  been  informed,  were  equal  in  coolness 
and  precision  to  our  own  ;  and  their  cavalry,  where  the 
country  was  adapted  to  their  operations,  had  no  superiors — 
they  were  as  expert  horsemen  as  the  Arabs  or  Persians,  and 
of  more  resolute  courage  than  the  Tartars ;  for  daring  and 
dexterity,  in  the  use  of  the  lance,  and  the  management  of  the 
horse,  perhaps  they  have  no  equals. 

Those  who  have  not  traversed  the  Andes  considerably, 
can  have  no  adequate  conception  of  the  marches  and  servi- 
ces of  the  armies  ;  nor  of  the  unfitness  of  European  troops, 
to  strive  against  them.  It  was  the  boast  of  the  soldiers  of 
the  revolution  of  North  America,  that  the  path,  over  which 
they  marched,  was  frequently  stained  by  the  blood  of  their 
shoeless  feet ;  and  it  was  too  true.  But  in  Colombia  there 
was  neither  a  shoe  nor  a  road  any  where,  the  prepared  work 
of  art;  the  best,  which  occasionally  offered,  was  a  track 
beaten  by  the  feet  of  mules,  on  a  level,  or  on  a  yielding 
mould ;  and  the  range  of  military  action,  was  not  always,  as 
at  Carabobo  and  Boyacca,  on  a  highway ;  but  on  the  sides 
or  summits  of  rocky  steeps  and  precipices,  where  wheel 
carriages  were  never  seen,  and  could  not  move.  The  coun- 
try east  of  St.  Carlos  is  comparatively  level  ground  ;  after 
passing  the  battle  ground  of  Carabobo,  it  is  a  broken  and 
ever  varying  wild,  unless  where  the  population  is  somewhat 
numerous  ;  cultivation  and  the  pasturage  present  some  scenes 
rescued  partially  from  natural  rudeness.  All  the  rivers  rise 
in  these  vast  mountains,  and  the  routes  of  armies,  as  well  as 
travellers,  are  directed  to  the  loftiest  ridges,  because  it  is  on- 
ly by  that  course  the  crossing  of  the  torrents  is  to  be  avoid- 
ed. I  have  been  placed  on  many  occasions  in  positions, 
in  which,  if  I  had  not  been  so  fortunate  as  to  have  obtained 
an  experienced  and  expert  guide,  I  should  have  gone  astray, 
or  been  entangled  in  ravines,  and  precipices,  from  which  ex- 
trication would  seem  hopeless. 


182  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

There  are  certain  peculiarities  in  the  track  that  must  of 
necessity  be  travelled,  which,  though  stated  here  in  advance 
of  the  experience  by  which  they  became  known,  may  serve 
to  show  the  reader  what  difficulties  the  traveller,  as  well  as 
the  soldier,  had  to  overcome.  The  route  generally  through 
the  populous  countries  is  traced  by  the  mules,  on  soils  whicli 
receive  the  impression  of  their  feet ;  in  thickly  wooded  re- 
gions, or  in  the  savannas,  where  the  rapidity  and  rankness  of 
vegetation  give  a  velvet  sward  that  bends  elastic  to  the  tread, 
or  grass  so  tall  as  to  rise  above  the  rider's  head,  the  track  is 
seldom  visible  below.  In  sudi  cases  the  guide  is  like  the 
pilot  on  a  coast,  he  looks  out  for  some  headland ;  and  the 
waving  lines  and  fantastic  forms  of  the  summits  of  the  Cor- 
dillera, show  peaks,  which,  like  land-marks  seen  on  the 
ocean,  tell  the  bearing  or  direction  of  the  route. 

The  experience  of  the  commandant  at  Valencia,  and  an 
examination  of  our  servants,  had  pointed  out  the  necessity 
of  our  having  some  better  guide  than  either  of  them.  A 
Serjeant  of  the  grenadiers,  who  had  been  somewhat  disabled 
in  the  feet,  was  attached  to  him  as  an  orderly,  and  having 
consulted  the  serjeant,  he  was  proposed  to  us  as  a  guide  ;  he 
had  travelled  the  route  five  times  before,  and  we  gladly  ac- 
cepted the  favour,  and  with  gratefulness,  though  far  short  of 
the  thanks  we  afterwards  found  to  be  justly  due. 

Our  guide  had  been  attached  to  the  commandant  since 
1817,  and  he  wore  the  yellow  ribbon  and  medal  of  Carabobo 
at  his  button-hole  ;  he  was  a  vigilant  and  faithful  soldier ; 
41S  we  proceed  he  will  be  better  known  ;  it  is  merely  enough 
to  say  here,  that  he  was  an  Englishman  of  Suffolk,  and  had 
been  a  seaman  at  the  battle  of  the  Nile ;  he  had  the  dry  humour 
of  an  Irishman  of  the  same  class ;  and  the  same  never-ceas- 
ing flow  of  animal  spirits,  vivacity,  and  inclination  to  mirth  : 
upon  occasions,  such  as  the  apparent  inextricability  of  a  savan- 
na, forest,  dry  river  bed,  ravine,  or  bleak  paramo,  I  was  accus- 
tomed  to  provoke  his  drollery  for  pastime,  and  as  it  was  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  183 

only  compensation  he  was  allowed  to  receive,  I  endeavoured 
to  make  up  in  confidence  and  kindness  for  the  good  which 
he  most  cheerfully  and  unceasingly  rendered  to  the  very  last 
moment  of  separation. 

I  was  accustomed  to  ask  of  him  :  "  Serjeant,  have  we  not 
lost  the  road?"  "  What  road?"  asked  the  serjeant;  "  there 
is  no  longer  any  king's  highway  in  this  country  ;  they  have 
all  become  republicans."  "  But  republicans  must  travel." 
"  Well  then,  look  at  that  peak  to  the  south-west."  "  What, 
the  highest  peak  of  all  ?"  "Ay,  colonel,  the  very  highest  of 
all."  "  I  suppose  our  route  lies  near  that?"  "  Near  it,  colo- 
nel !  yes,  faith,  over  the  very  tip-top  of  it."  "This  is  not  the 
first  time  that  I  observed  our  road  lay  over  the  highest 
places."  "  Faith,  colonel,  you  may  take  it  as  a  rule,  that,  if 
any  mountain  higher  than  another  lies  in  your  way,  your  road 
lies  over  that ;  it  was  the  way  with  the  Indians,  and  the  way 
with  the  Spaniards  after  them ;  and  it  is,  as  you  see,  the  way 
still."  **  I  suppose,  after  the  war  is  closed,  there  will  be  bet- 
ter roads,  and  over  shorter  spaces  ?"  "  That,  colonel,  is 
none  of  my  business;  I  belong  to  the  grenadiers  of  Colom- 
bia, and  when  they  give  us  our  arrears  of  pay  and  allowance 
of  land,  I  may  be  able  to  talk  about  that." 

According  to  the  theory  of  our  military  conductor,  the 
policy  of  impassable  roads,  or  of  no  roads,  belonged  to  the 
aborigines ;  being  in  constant  conflict,  they  had  for  purposes 
of  defence,  as  well  as  oiFence,  selected  the  most  elevated  and 
difficult  paths  and  passes,  from  which  they  could  discover 
an  approaching  enemy,  or  descend  upon  him  by  surprize, 
or  annoy  an  assailing  force,  by  rolling  ponderous  masses  of 
rock  down  the  the  line  of  approach ;  a  stratagem  repeatedly 
practised,  with  terrible  success,  against  the  Spaniards,  du- 
ring the  revolution.  The  policy  of  the  Spaniards,  he  said, 
had  adopted  the  plan,  to  prevent  communication  between 
adjacent  provinces.  The  theory  was  plausible  ;  indeed  the 
only  communication  permitted  between  Bogota  and  Caracas 


184)  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

was  that  of  the  correo  or  postman,  which  took  forty  days  to 
perform ;  stations  were  assigned,  at  which  the  runners  were 
changed,  and  as  the  package  was  often  light  enough  to  be 
carried  by  a  pigeon,  the  labour  was  not  very  great,  nor  the 
speed  expedient.  Private  individuals  obtained  permission  to 
travel,  with  difficulty. 

I  have  introduced  these  particulars  here^  because  they 
serve  the  double  purpose  of  illustrating  the  marches  of  ar- 
mies, and  preparing  the  traveller  for  the  roads  he  is  to  sur- 
mount. 

Our  stay  at  Valencia  had  been  prolonged,  from  respect  to 
General  Paez — but  he  had  been  ordered  on  service  in  a 
different  direction  ;  an  accident,  however,  made  my  stay 
eleven  days.  The  commandant,  in  his  desire  to  afford 
me  and  my  companions  every  gratification,  intimated  that 
the  lake  could  be  seen  to  advantage  from  the  terraced  roof 
of  an  adjacent  house,  which  stood  on  the  corner  of  the  Pla- 
za, now  occupied  as  a  barrack.  On  the  twentieth,  we  pre- 
pared ourselves  with  our  glasses,  and  ascended,  and  here  it 
was  that  I  found  a  terraced  roof,  such  as  are  found  on  all  well 
constructed  houses  in  India.  The  lake  lay  between  three  and 
four  miles  to  the  south-east  of  us,  and  the  prospect  was  cer- 
tainly grand ;  the  Serrania  of  Ortiz^  which  runs  in  an  apparent 
line  from  east  to  west,  on  the  south  side  of  the  lake,  appear- 
ed like  a  changeable  silk  scarf  in  the  distance,  a  sort  of  van- 
ishing and  returning  niirage ;  while  the  lake,  changing  from 
the  aspect  of  a  broad  sparkling  sea  of  quicksilver,  appeared 
diminished  into  a  narrow  gnlph,  of  which  the  extremity  was 
imperceptible.  The  mountain  ridge,  which  separates  the 
valley  from  the  sea,  when  we  looked  along  the  lake,  seemed 
to  present  shadows  of  an  ochreous  hue,  interspersed  with 
dusky  green,  and  from  which  a  scintillating  transparent  va- 
pour appeared  to  rise,  which  seemed  to  give  substance  to 
the  atmosphere. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  185 

After  gratifying  our  curiosity,  we  were  about  to  descend. 
The  stairs  (unfortunately  for  the  occasion)  were  not  the 
Gothic  double  flight  of  ponderous  brick,  but  of  wood,  with 
four  landings.  Some  of  these  landings  had  been  stript  for 
fuel,  by  the  cocineros  of  the  barrack,  and  more  apprehensive 
for  Elizabeth,  than  careful  of  myself,  I  for  an  instant  for- 
got that  the  landings  were  stript,  until  I  found  myself  seat- 
ed on  the  ground  floor  beneath  the  stair- case,  through  which 
I  was  carried  by  my  own  weight ;  my  first  impression  was 
to  halloo — "  all's  well,"  though  I  found  myself  not  quite 
well  enough  to  stand  upright,  and  crawled  on  all  fours  from 
my  place  of  deposit.  I  was  a  little  stunned,  and  so  much 
bruised,  as  not  to  be  able  to  mount  my  mule  before  the 
twenty-eighth.  The  accident  was  more  than  compensated, 
by  the  acquaintances  it  had  procured  me,  and  the  kindness 
it  produced ;  it  procured  me  the  intimacy  of  Senor  Pefial- 
ver,  who,  hearing  of  my  arrival,  had  returned  the  very  eve- 
ning this  accident  occurred. 

The  physician  of  the  division  of  the  army  stationed  at  Va- 
lencia, on  hearing  of  this  accident,  called  upon  me  of  his  own 
kindness,  and  I  had  the  benefit  of  his  skill,  and  the  gratifica- 
tion of  his  intercourse.  Dr.  Wm.  Murphy  is  a  native  of  Sligo, 
in  Ireland ;  he  was  educated  at  Trinity  College,  Dublin, 
studied  medicine,  and  took  his  degree  there.  As  a  catholic, 
and  a  man  of  talents,  his  own  country  was  the  last  in  which 
he  could  expect  to  prosper,  or  to  live  in  quiet  without  base- 
ness, and  Colombia  presented  to  him  a  field  where  his  qua- 
lifications and  virtues  promised  to  place  him  on  equal  terms 
with  men  of  virtue  and  worth.  A  townsman,  youthful  com- 
panion, and  college  friend.  Dr.  French  Mullery,  similarly 
circumstanced,  associated*  with  him  in  the  emigration,  and 
both  had  risen  to  the  rank  of  surgeon -major  in  the  military 
establishment.  I  met  Dr.  Mullery  afterwards  at  Barquisime- 
to.     Both  these  gentlemen  were  held  in  the  highest  estima- 

24 


186  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

tion,  as  well  for  their  professional  merits,  as  the  exemplary 
integrity  ol  their  social  character,  if  words  could  convey 
sufficiently  the  sentiments  with  which  these  worthy  Hiberni- 
ans inspired  me,  I  should  not  be  so  sparing  of  my  expres- 
sions  of  esteem  and  gratitude  for  their  generous  and  disinter- 
ested attentions  to  me  and  to  my  family  party,  as  Dr.  Mul- 
lery  significantly  described  us. 

Obliged  to  remain  four  days  in  a  reclined  position,  I  had 
ample"  opportunities  from  the  kindness  of  Seiior  Penalver  to 
converse  on  every  kind  of  subject — the  revolution  ;  the  bar- 
barity of  the  Spanish  chiefs  ;  the  ruinous  effects  on  families  ; 
the  early  distractions  and  parties  arising  out  of  unsettled 
views ;  the  inexperience  of  free  government ;  the  force  of  lo- 
cal predilections  ;  personal  ambition ;  jealousy  of  men  with 
better  talents ;  the  remams  of  Spanish  attachments,  which 
nothing  could  have  completely  eradicated  but  that  very  bru- 
tality and  ferociousness,  which  characterized  every  governor 
and  officer  of  Spain,  from  the  commencement  to  that  very 
hour  when  Morales  was  spreading  desolation,  and  accumu- 
lating by  plunder  a  fortune,  to  be  transferred  to  Europe, 
where  he  meant  to  retire  as  soon  as  it  amounted  to  what  he 
deemed  competent  to  his  future  designs.  The  characters  of 
men  of  eminence,  living  and  dead,  were  happily  and  perspi- 
cuously reviewed,  and  the  proud  prospects  which  the  revolu- 
tion presented  for  posterity,  but  which  had  cost  so  much 
misery  and  ruin  to  the  generation  that  had  accomplished  it. 

I  learned  that  he  was  the  only  survivor  of  seven  brothers; 
the  rest  had  perished  in  war  or  by  assassination ;  one  niece,  and 
one  nephew  of  sixteen,  and  a  daughter  of  eleven,  were  all  who 
remained  of  a  numerous  family  ;  their  estates  had  been  de- 
solated ;  he  had  been  in  voluntarj'' exile  from  his  home,  and 
his  niece  had  suffered  all  the  hardships  incident  to  a  flight  by 
sea,  in  which  she  had  visited  the  West  India  islands,  return- 
ed by  the  Orinoco,  and  thence  by  land  to  her  native  home; 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  187 

and  who,  in  doing  the  honours  of  his  house,  left  us  nothing 
to  wish  but  that  it  were  possible  we  should  never  be  sepa- 
rated. 

In  the  various  interesting  transactions  related  while  I  was 
thus  delayed,  was  a  horrible  act  of  deliberate  perfidy  and  as- 
sassination by  a  Spanish  general :  the  campaign  of  1814  was 
most  calamitous  to  the  republic  ;  the  wants  of  the  army  could 
be  supplied  only  by  its  separation  into  divisions,  to  equalize 
subsistence  on  different  parts  of  the  republic  ;  the  Spaniards 
had  distributed  their  forces  under  a  number  of  partizan  chiefs; 
and  it  was  deemed  by  the  republican  chiefs  the  safest  policy 
to  meet  them  in  that  mode  of  operation  which  they  had  pre- 
ferred, a  guerilla  war.  But  the  result  to  the  patriots  was 
disastrous :  in  the  plains,  in  Coro,  and  other  places,  they  suf- 
fered defeat.  The  ferocious  Boves  entered  Caracas  in  1814, 
and  the  casemates  of  Laguayra  became  the  prison  and  the 
grave  of  many  generous  men.  The  siege  of  Puerto  Cabello 
was  obliged  to  be  raised.  Valencia  yet  held  out  with  suc- 
cess, though  not  without  disaster ;  every  thing  after  the  first 
battle  of  Carabobo,  28th  May,  1814,  appeared  to  reverse 
their  good  fortune,  and  it  became  necessary  for  Valencia  to 
capitulate  upon  a  proposition  very  plausibly  made  by 
Boves. 

The  utter  disregard  of  treaties  and  promises  which  had 
uniformly  characterised  the  Spanish  commanders,  led  to  the 
insertion  of  an  article  in  the  capitulation,  which  the  Valen- 
cians  hoped  to  find  more  solemn  and  binding  when  sancti- 
fied by  their  most  sacred  solemnity.  It  was  agreed  that  the 
capitulation  should  be  ratified  at  high  mass  to  be  celebrated 
in  the  front  of  both  armies,  where,  in  the  presence  of  the 
sacred  emblem  of  the  divinity,  each  should  swear  upon  the 
host  to  observe  the  conditions  faithfully.  The  solemnity  and 
the  oath  having  taken  place,  the  city  was  surrendered  to  the 
royal  authority. 


188  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  calm  which  now  succeeded  appeared  auspicious :  a 
disposition  began  to  be  manifested  which  preferred  submis- 
sion to  the  further  prosecution  of  war.  Alas  !  this  calm  was 
but  the  precursor  of  a  sad  catastrophe.  The  custom  of  cele- 
brating important  events  by  festivity  and  feasting  pervades 
Spanish  America.  The  city  was  tranquil,  and  the  remem- 
brance of  past  evils  had  lost  some  of  their  acuteness.  To 
give  testimony  of  his  satisfaction  at  this  quiet  state  of  things, 
Boves  signified  that  he  would  give  a  grand  entertainment. 
Notifications  were  circulated,  and  all  the  principal  persons 
of  both  sexes  were  invited  to  a  splendid  supper  and  ball :  it 
was  even  hinted  that  absence  would  be  construed  into  dis- 
loyalty ;  the  effect  was  such  as  was  intended. 

Upon  festive  occasions,  where  the  company  is  numerous, 
it  is  customary  with  private  families  to  borrow  from  each 
other  their  plate  and  other  conveniencies.  On  this  occasion 
it  could  not  be  supposed  that  the  Spanish  general  was  pro- 
vided with  plate  for  the  table  to  supply  such  a  concourse. 
Every  family  was  eager  to  contribute  whatever  remained  un- 
plundered  ;  and  they  were  the  more  eager,  as  it  seemed  to 
promise  more  favour.  There  were  few  articles  of  plate  re- 
maining in  any-  private  house  after  this  contribution  ;  and 
the  feast  was  accordingly  sumptuous.  The  day  was  spent 
in  consolements  and  condolements,  regrets  for  past  afflictions 
and  compliments  that  they  were  terminated.  The  evening 
seemed  too  long,  and  night  too  hasty,  to  the  dancers.  The 
music  already  enlivened  the  halls,  and  the  streets  exhibited 
a  social  holiday.  In  one  saloon  the  youth  of  both  sexes 
"  tripped  on  light  fantastic  toe,"  in  another  the  flask  circu- 
lated with  unsuspecting  freedom.  The  females  were  nearly 
all  left  to  dance  alone,  such  was  the  attraction  of  momentary 
conviviality — a  few  only  refrained  from  the  indulgence — in 
the  midst  of  this  double  career  of  enjoyment,  the  folding 
doors  are  suddenly  thrown  open  ;  soldiers  occupy  them  with 
their  sabres  and  bayonets,  and  a  general  massacre  of  the  men 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  189 

instantly  takes  place,  amidst  the  shrieks  and  cries  of  females 
in  the  adjacent  apartments — wives,  mothers,  daughters  for- 
get their  own  safety  and  rush  into  the  midst  of  the  mas- 
sacre, vainly  seeking  husbands,  fathers,  sons,  and  brothers — 
whom  they  find  bathed  in  their  own  blood,  and  in  the  ago- 
nies of  death. 

It  would  be  fruitless  to  offer  any  commentary  on  such 
an  atrocious  deed.  It  will  occur  to  every  one  that  the  mas- 
sacre reduced  the  plunder  of  the  plate  borrowed  for  the  fes- 
tivity to  a  petty  outrage.  Some  subaltern  officers,  who  were 
not  among  the  guests,  had  the  honest  imprudence  to  avow 
their  execration  of  the  deed — th^;y  were  not  long  concealed 
from  the  tyrant  Boves,  and  were  unceremoniously  executed, 
along  with  some  soldiers,  who  had  uttered  similar  indigna- 
tion, on  the  very  spot  where  the  solemn  mass  had  been  per- 
formed in  ratification  of  the  capitulation. 

Among  the  few  who  were  so  fortunate  as  to  escape  the 
general  assassination,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  being  intimate 
with  one  at  Bogota.  Stnor  Miguel  Pciia,  one  of  the  judges 
of  the  Supreme  Court  at  Bogota.  This  gentleman  was 
among  the  guests  invited  ;  whether  from  a  distaste  of  ca- 
rousal, or  some  movements  which  he  happened  to  notice, 
which  induced  him  to  caution,  he  had  retired  to  the  lower 
apartments,  and  contrived  to  obtain  the  habit  of  a  monk,  in 
which  he  found  no  interruption ;  and  intuitively  made  his 
way  to  an  adjacent  mountain,  and  to  a  village  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  where  he  awaited  to  ascertain  the  truth  or  error  of 
his  apprehensions,  which,  when  he  found  realized,  he  lost  no 
time  in  retiring  out  of  the  range  of  apprehension.  He  con- 
firmed the  story  to  me  at  Bogota. 

The  narrative  here  given  was  made  from  memory,  after  a 
casual  relation  by  a  contemporary  resident ;  some  incidents 
have  escaped  my  memory  of  an  aggravating  kind ;  but  I 
prefer  stating  substantially  what  I  heard  to  risking  an  imper- 
fect or  mistaken  point  in  a  transaction  sufficiently  detestable 
and  abhorrent. 


190 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Aguas  Callientes — prepare  for  marching — charges  for  mule  hire — our  party 
augmented — depart  the  twenty-eighth — charming  country — vast  range  un 
cultivated — description  of  our  party — proper  to  travel  armed — it  is  the  cus- 
tom— aspects  of  the  country — promontories  issuing  into  the  plain — divergen- 
cy of  the  route — towns  on  the  line  of  march — the  iield  of  Carabobo — conduct  of 
Morales — quarrel  of  the  Spanish  chiefs — La  Torre  retires — Morales'  conduct 
— manly  declaration  of  Captain  Spence — towns  on  the  road — warm  climate — 
travel  by  night — Palmas — river  Portugueza — accommodations  at  Palmas — 
good-natured  fat  acalde— some  particulars  of  the  customs — style  of  building — 
recollections  and  comparisons — sr.ioking — the  custom  abating. 

Before  the  accident  which  detained  me  at  Valencia,  1 
had  contemplated  an  excursion  to  the  Aguas  Callientes^  or  the 
warm  springs,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Puerto  Cabello,  which 
is  about  twenty-two  miles  from  the  city ;  but  it  would  have 
been  impracticable,  the  Spaniards  holding  Puerto  Cabello 
still,  and  a  picket  from  Valencia  being  posted  at  the  princi- 
pal pass  in  the  mountains,  with  absolute  orders  not  to  permit 
any  person  to  go  or  come  between  the  two  places.  Lieut. 
Bache,  however,  obtained  a  passport,  with  a  view  only  to 
visit  the  springs,  his  curiosity  being  excited  by  the  descrip- 
tion of  Humboldt ;  but  the  picket  would  not  permit  him 
to  pass ;  and  he  returned,  though  he  was  compensated  by 
viewing  the  ground  of  the  battle  at  Naguanagua,  and  the 
steepness  of  the  cordillera,  over  which  the  route  to  Puerto 
Cabello  lies. 

Having  so  far  recovered,  as  to  be  able,  with  some  altera- 
tions in  the  seat  of  my  saddle,  to  mount  my  mule,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  provide  mules  for  the  baggage  and  ser- 
vants. The  charge,  for  a  single  mule,  from  Caracas  to  Va- 
lencia, about  107  miles,  was  five  dollars  ;  the  demand  made 
for  nearly  the  like  distance  to  Truxillo  was  ten  dollars  each 
mule  ;   at  first  sight,  this  seemed  like  extortion,    but  Colo- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  191 

nel  Gomez,  formerly  an  aid  of  President  Bolivar,  satisfied' 
us  that  the  nature  of  the  country  made  the  difference  justifi- 
able. We  had  experienced,  from  every  officer  of  the  Co- 
lombian service,  the  kindest  attentions,  and  Colonel  Gomez 
took  upon  himself  to  provide  an  ariero  who  would  accom- 
pany us  :  the  master  muleteer  was  somewhat  better  than  his 
man,  though  he  played  us  some  tricks,  but  none  that  were 
so  important  as  to  require  a  report  to  the  Colonel — and  we 
found  the  route,  as  the  Colonel  described,  such  as  war- 
ranted double  the  demand  for  mules  of  that  from  Caracas 
to  Valencia. 

Our  good  friend,  the  commandant  of  Valencia,  actuated 
by  his  good  wishes  and  his  experience,  as  noticed  in  the 
preceding  chapter,  had  discovered,  from  our  servants,  Vin- 
cent and  Pedro,  that  although  they  both  professed  to  be  so 
well  acquainted  with  the  country,  as  to  undertake  to  be  our 
guides,  neither  of  them  had  ever  been  farther  south  or  west 
than  Truxillo  ;  and  proffered  us  his  orderly  sergeant,  who- 
had  five  times  passed  the  whole  route,  to  accompany  us^ 
The  sergeant,  of  whom  I  took  notice  before,  whose  pas- 
sion was  rambling,  and  who  had  become  so  much  natural- 
ized to  the  climate,  food,  and  people  of  the  Sierra,  was 
so  well  known,  every  where  on  the  road,  that  this  little  jaunt, 
of  1300  miles,  was  as  welcome  to  him  as  a  party  of  plea- 
sure, and  the  whole  addition  to  our  expence  was  the  hire 
of  another  mule  ;  the  commandant  making  it  a  condition 
that  he  should  receive  nothing — and  in  truth,  it  was  not  ne- 
cessary as  to  the  sergeant,  for  he  considered  the  permission 
to  go  with  us  as  a  favour  to  him.  This  addition  to  our 
cavalcade  had  many  very  useful  effects  ;  he  knew  every  bo- 
dy, every  where ;  he  knew  where  to  procure  what  we  want- 
ed, and  always  on  cheap  terms  ;  and  without  him,  it  is  mo- 
rally certain,  we  should  not  have  been  able  to  find  our  way 
in  three  months,  nor  to  manage  the  knavish  dispositions  of 
our  two  hired  asistie?ites*     A  sergeant  or  a  corporal  is  as 


192  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

proud  of  his  rank,  and  tenacious  of  his  command,  as  a  ge* 
neral ;  accordingly  I  placed  him  in  command  of  die  rest  of 
the  suite,  and  as  when  mules  are  hired,  a  muleteer  accom- 
panies every  three  or  four  mules,  to  provide  their  forage,  load 
and  unload,  and  take  charge  on  their  return,  we  had  now 
the  arieroy  who  rode  his  own  mule,  and  his  servant  mu- 
leteer, who  walked,  attached  to  our  corps,  so  that  the  ser- 
geant was  in  his  element,  and  conducted  things  as  if  he  was 
on  military  service.  When  mules  are  hired,  the  subsistence 
of  mules  and  attendants  is  comprehended  in  the  hire. 

We  had  been  eleven  days  at  Valencia,  and  had  obtained 
the  esteem  and  good  will  of  many  estimable  persons  of  both 
sexes,  of  whom  we  took  leave  on  the  27th  November,  par- 
ticularly  the  gallant  commandant  and  several  officers  of  the 
grenadiers,  and  our  amiable  friend.  Dr.  Murphy.  Our  mules 
being  punctual,  (a  rare  case,)  we  were  mounted  at  the  dawn 
of  the  28ih,  and  found,  as  customary,  a  party  of  our  friends 
already  prepared  to  escort  us  out  of  town.  The  venerable 
and  worthy  Ferdinand  Ptiialver  was  the  last  who  left  us,  at 
the  distance  of  nearly  ten  miles,  leaving  such  impressions  of 
his  liberal  and  cultivated  mind,  and  practical  virtues  and  prin- 
ciples, as  can  only  cease  to  be  felt  along  with  the  cessation 
of  every  faculty. 

It  was  not  until  the  converse  with  our  friends  had  ceased, 
and  we, were  at  ease  to  look  around  us,  that  I  could  bestow 
any  attention  on  the  beautiful  plain  and  country  through 
which  we  were  passing,  nor  the  number  of  our  cara- 
van. Our  sergeant  led  the  van.  Lieutenant  Bache  and  his 
sister  followed,  and  I  came  next ;  then  the  three  mules  with 
baggage,  and  the  spare  mule,  the  ariero  and  his  man,  and 
last  of  all  our  two  domestics — eleven  mules,  and  six  in  our 
party,  besides  the  muleteers.  Our  sergeant  had  caparison- 
ed his  mule  and  himself  in  the  military  style  of  the  coun- 
try, with  a  good  bridle,  but  an  enormous  bit  and  snaffle, 
with  some  ornaments,  though  faded,  which  shewed  it  had  at 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  193 

some  day  kept  good  company  and  seen  some  service.  His 
saddle  was  a  Spanish  peak  and  high  pommel,  formed  upon  a 
powerful  saddie-tree,  which  threw  out,  above  the  mule's  haun- 
ches, two  firm  limbs,  which  saved  the  mule  from  rubbing; 
and,  at  the  same  time,  carried  his  valise,  which  contained  a 
good  stock  of  powder,  ball,  and  some  flints ;  a  tinder-box, 
steel,  and  matches ;  what  he  called  a  kit,  being  a  collection 
of  various  mechanical  implements,  nippers,  plyers,  gimlets, 
chissels,  files,  hammers,  a  vice,  turn-screw,  cork-screw, 
awls,  knives,  needles,  from  a  sail-maker's  needle  and  palm- 
thimble,  to  cambric,  of  which  he  had  some  assorted  papers ; 
with  ladies'  thimbles  ''\for  love  tokens;''^  besides  tapes, 
bobbins,  scissors,  and  buttons  and  buckles  of  various  de- 
scriptions. A  blue  military  short  coat,  with  standing  collar 
and  yellow  buttons,  at  one  of  which,  on  his  left  breast,  was 
suspended  the  yellow  ribbon  and  silver  medal  of  Carabobo ; 
his  pantaloons,  of  Russia  ;  a  black  stock ;  quarter-boots, 
with  one  spur,  the  rowel  of  enormous  prongs,  sufficient  to 
put  an  elephant  in  action ;  his  black  belt  bore  a  stout  cu- 
chilla^  or  sword,  broad,  heavy,  and  sharp,  of  twenty-seven 
inches;  his  holsters  carried  a  pair  of  pistols,  and  on  the 
right  side  a  short  Prussian  rifle  hung  to  a  running  swivel 
attached  to  the  saddle  ;  on  his  head,  at  times,  a  leather  in- 
fantry cap,  with  a  long  plume  of  feathers  and  beautifully 
coloured  with  the  cochineal,  the  indigo,  and  the  turmeric  of 
the  country,  and  a  cockade  of  the  same  three  colours ;  at 
other  times,  when  in  a  city  such  as  Merida  or  Tunja,  his 
grenadier's  cap  appeared;  and  when  mounted,  a  lance  of 
ten  feet,  to  which  was  attached  a  stout  line,  wound  round 
the  shaft,  the  other  end  in  a  slip-knot  attached  to  his  upper 
arm ;  the  ferule  of  the  lance  resting  in  an  iron  socket  attach- 
ed to  his  stirrup ;  over  his  saddle  he  carried,  in  suitable  folds, 
a  good  blanket,  which  was  to  be  his  coverlid  by  night,  his 
romero  when  it  rained. 

I  have  enymerated  the  provident  care  of  the  sergeant,  be- 

25 


194  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

cause,  in  the  course  of  the  journey,  very  few  articles  of 
what  he  had  laid  up  were  found  superfluous,  and  some  were 
of  very  great  convenience  in  a  country  where  there  are  no 
arts  or  trades  of  any  kind,  but  the  merely  agricultural,  ex- 
cepting in  the  great  towns,  and  even  there  not  many  nor 
good  of  their  kind.  I  had  provided  myself  with  convenient 
articles,  such  as  a  hammer,  small  vice,  some  files,  &c.,  and 
I  would  advise  the  carrying  of  a  small  hatchet  or  tomahawk 
in  good  order,  at  the  saddle  bow,  as  in  the  luxuriant  valleys 
and  passing  through  the  bamboo  thickets,  such  an  article  will 
be  found  of  much  convenient  use.  Though  we  had  not  any 
just  cause  to  apprehend  any  design  upon  us,  we  followed 
the  practice  of  the  country,  in  arming  ourselves,  each  of  us 
having  a  good  sabre,  and  pair  of  pistols ;  the  natives  of  the 
country  who  are  met  on  the  road  are  usually  armed,  some 
with  muskets,  or  musketoons  ;  this  perhaps  is  the  conti- 
nuance of  an  old  custom,  or  it  may  have  arisen  out  of  the 
war,  which  generally  casts  forth  some  unfortunate  beings  on 
the  highways.  The  knowledge  of  the  language  is  above  all 
things  the  most  necessary.  Our  sergeant  spoke  it  with  more 
fluency  than  correctness,  and  more  vivacity  than  is  usual  to 
Englishmen,  and  never  failed  to  make  himself  understood, 
and  nine  times  out  of  ten  agreeable.  When  he  found  a  su- 
percilious or  a  knavish  alcalde,  or  a  pilfering  muleteer,  he 
was  not  so  agreeable,  for  he  not  only  took  care  to  make 
known  his  own  importance,  and  his  ribbon  and  medal  of  Ca- 
rabobo,  but  the  importance  of  the  Coronel  de  los  Estados  Uni- 
dos  del  Norte  to  whom  he  was  attached  by  the  commandant 
of  Valencia. 

We  now  rambled  in  a  desultory  chain,  Indian  file,  over 
the  plain  of  Valencia.  Leaving  the  city,  the  road  leads 
nearly  south,  and  a  gentle  descent  towards  the  lake,  which 
we  passed  in  a  line  obliquely  to  the  westernmost  extremity, 
the  ground  rising  as  the  lake  receded,  where  the  road  led 
more  westwardly,  and  rose  to  the  right  and  left  into  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  195 

ridges  which  bound  it  on  both  sides.  It  was  noticed  on  en- 
tering Valencia,  that  at  the  termination  of  the  city,  on  the 
west  end,  there  was  one  of  those  promontories,  which  shoot 
out  Hke  great  arms  from  a  long  sea-coast  chain ;  from  the 
west  side  of  this  projecting  point,  a  chain  of  mountains  more 
depressed,  not  one  third  the  height  of  the  mountain  of  the 
coast,  throws  its  prolongation  to  the  south-south-west,  and 
extends  thence  beyond  Varinas  :  from  the  front  of  this  range 
of  depressed  mountains,  issue  a  multitude  of  rivers  of  various 
magnitudes,  so  that  they  intersect  the  plain,  their  direction  be- 
ing generally  to  the  south-east  and  east,  and  rendering  the  pas- 
sage to  the  greater  Andes  impracticable  for  half  the  year,  and 
inconvenient  the  other.  The  route  which  travellers  pursue  is, 
for  a  considerable  distance,  along  the  summit  and  across  the 
beds  of  many  of  those  rivers  and  ravines.  The  greater  Corde- 
lier, which  proceeds  out  of  that  which  passes  to  the  east  in  front 
of  Merida,  and  is  therefore  called  the  Paramo  of  Merida,  is 
here  in  sight,  its  dark  base  separating  the  verdant  horizon 
from  the  gloomy  clouds,  which  for  a  great  part  of  the  day  hide 
its  loftiest  line.  To  give  a  familiar  idea  of  their  position,  the 
promontory  behind  Valencia  west,  may  be  presumed  to  repre- 
sent the  point  or  summit  of  the  letter  A,  and  the  depressed 
range  from  which  the  rivers  issue  south-east  to  form  the  right 
line  of  the  letter ;  leading  to  Varinas,  the  greater  Andes  are  re- 
presented by  the  left  line  or  continuity  of  the  Merida  Paramo. 
Now  the  road  from  Valencia,  instead  of  pursuing  the  right 
line  towards  San  P'elipe,  or  the  left  line  leading  towards  Va- 
rinas, turns  abruptly  to  the  north-west,  at  a  point  correspond- 
ing with  the  cross-line  at  the  intersection  of  A,  where  a  ridge, 
a  little  more  elevated,  pushes  across,  and  terminates  near  Bar- 
quisimeto. 

The  villages  and  towns  in  succession  from  Valencia,  arc 
Tucuito,  Carabobo,  Chirgua,  Las  Hermanas,  Tinaquilla,  Pal- 
mas,  Plomera,  San  Carlos,  thence  San  Jose,  La  Cey  va,  Quebra- 
da  de  Camouraka,  Tinaco,  where  the  road  abruptly  breaks 
oflf  to  the  north-west,  by  Camarocate,  Caiesita,  El  Altar,  Ba= 


196  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ladera,  Gamalotal,  Lamorita,    Rastrajos,   Caudares,  toBar- 
quisimeto. 

Tucuito,  though  it  be  the  first  town,  is  not  the  first  habi- 
tation ;  the  town  stands  on  the  left  side  of  the  river  Guata- 
paro,  which  has  its  sources  in  the  ridge  west  of  Valencia, 
and  on  its  sides  a  beautiful  valley,  with  many  handsome 
plantations.  Having  crossed  the  Guataparo,  the  ground  has 
a  gentle  ascent  to  some  distance,  when  it  becomes  level, 
flanked  with  fine  forests.  A  ravine  is  darkly  visible  through 
the  deep  shadows  of  foliage  always  verdant,  it  being  the  now 
dry  bed  of  a  rivulet,  that,  at  a  different  season,  is  overflow- 
ing. Crossing  out  of  this  ravine,  the  side  is  steeper  than  the 
descent ;  gaining  it,  the  traveller  issues  out  of  darkness  into 
broad  sunshine.  The  sergeant  immediately  galloped  off"  an 
ascending  ground,  which  opened  in  beauty  and  grandeur 
before  us ;  he  placed  himself,  with  his  lance  couched,  wait- 
ing to  display  the  positions,  and,  looking  round  to  mark 
every  point,  waited  our  approach  ;  I  believe  it  was  only  a 
suspicion,  for  I  thought  I  saw  the  sergeant  eye  his  yellow 
ribbon  and  his  medal,  with  his  dark  blue  eye  more  bright 
than  usual  ;  in  fact,  this  was  the  field  of  Carabobo,  and  like 
my  uncle  Toby's  aid- de-camp,  he  was  now  placing  himself 
in  a  position  to  besiege  Dendermond  once  more.  We  fol- 
lowed him,  after  viewing  some  decayed  bamboo  huts  at  the 
opening  of  the  thicket  by  which  we  entered  ;  these,  he  told 
us,  wer£  the  tents  of  the  Spaniards*  picket  guard  the  night 
before  the  battle;  and  he  went  on  to  relate  where  the  line 
was  formed,  where  the  reserves  were  placed,  where  Bolivar, 
and  where  Paez,  where  the  British  legion,  and  where  the  gre- 
nadiers of  Colombia,  were  placed,  for  he  was  there  among 
them ;  where  this  evolution  took  place,  and  that  charge 
"  made  a  finish  of  the  fight." 

I  returned  to  the  bamboo  bivouac,  and  found  the  stones 
which  formed  the  hearth,  and  the  ashes  of  the  fires  whereat 
they  cooked,  many  of  them,  their  last  supper ;  the  country 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA..  1117 

people,  who  do  not,  as  in  some  other  countries,  destroy  wan- 
tonly for  amusement,  liad  even  spared  this  bamboo  ruin. 
The  fragments  of  earthen-ware,  the  charred  fire- wood,  were 
there  too — and  time  only,  which  has  not  respected  Palmyra 
or  Persepolis,  had  alone  made  an  impression  on  it.  Perhaps 
there  was  some  pride  in  this  forbearance  of  the  Colombians ; 
it  may  have  consoled  some  friend  of  one  who  had  fallen  on 
that  field,  or  some  orphan,  some  widow,  or  some  parent,, 
who  had  been  a  guest  at  Boves'  bloody  entertainment  in, 
Valencia;  to  such  persons  this  ruin  would  yield  console- 
ment,  as  an  emblem  of  Spanish  power,  in  its  desolation. 
I  confess,  upon  examination  of  myself,  it  was  not  the  mere 
ruin  that  induced  me  to  return  to  it  a  second  time ;  but 
sympathy  with  those  to  whom  the  emblem  would  carry  con- 
solation. 

If  a  military  man  were  to  search  the  world  for  a  field  of 
battle,  for  any  number  under  10,000  men,  no  finer  position 
could  be  found.  Rising  out  of  the  ditch,  at  the  entrance,  the 
burst  of  light,  after  the  dusky  thicket  that  is  passed  through^ 
for  an  instant  produces  a  halt,  and  a  most  picturesque  and 
extensive  field  opens  upon  the  eye,  ascending  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  where  the  sergeant  had  posted  himself  with  his 
face  to  the  south  ;  he  showed  all  parts  of  the  field  of  battle. 
From  his  position  in  front,  the  ground  slopes,  for  half  a  mile,, 
gently  to  the  entering  place  or  the  bivouac,  and  is  level  there 
for  three  or  four  hundred  yards,  when  the  ground  rises  more 
abruptly,  and  seems  to  consist  of  a  succession  of  rising  plat- 
forms, covered  by  very  thick  woods  and  wild  shrubbery; 
and  farther  on,  the  trees  more  open,  and  farther  still,  the  deep 
and  dark  boundless  forest  rising  to  a  mountain  height :  on  the 
right  or  west  there  was  a  long  and  more  rapid  descent,  and  at 
the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  where  he  stood,  was  a 
remarkable  dry  ravine,  about  fifty  feet  broad  and  forty  feet 
deep,  the  water- scooped  sides  exhibiting  a  mass  of  angular 
stones,  and  abruptly  opening  from  the  sod  a  perpendicular 


19S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Steep.  Behind  him,  at  about  eight  hundred  yards,  com- 
menced a  range  of  hills,  covered  with  verdure,  of  the  shape 
of  large  stacks  of  hay,  the  intervals  exposing  other  conical 
hills ;  and  behind  these  a  deep  shady  forest.  Every  thing 
could  be  seen  from  this  spot:  the  sergeant  was  eloquent, 
and  I  have  no  doubt  accurate,  in  his  narrative. 

The  Spanish  General  La  Torre,  who  had  succeeded  Mo- 
rillo,  commanded  in  this  action  ;  Morales  was  his  second. 
The  latter,  monster  as  he  was,  displayed,  on  this  occasion, 
the  firmness  of  a  soldier,  and  the  talents  of  a  commander ;  he 
collected  as  many  of  the  flying  Spaniards  as  he  could,  and 
formed  them  into  four  heavy  platoons,  of  which  he  formed 
a  hollow  square,  placed  himself  in  the  centre,  and  kept  up 
a  running  fight  until  he  passed  beyond  Tucuito ;  some  of 
the  cavalry  of  Paez  pursued  the  fugitives  with  the  lance  to 
the  neighbourhood  of  Valencia. 

This  victory  had  a  signal  influence  on  the  revolution  ;  and 
led  to  a  rupture  between  the  two  Spanish  chiefs,  for  which 
both  had  been  some  time  prepared.  The  emissaries  of  the 
latter  had  spread  abroad  insinuations  to  the  disparagement  of 
La  Torre,  intimating  that  he  had  connived  at  the  defeat ;  that 
having  married  a  lady  of  Caracas,  he  meant  to  remain  in  Co- 
lombia ;  and  that  he  was  at  heart  a  democrat.  Morales  in 
fact  aspired  to  the  command  himself;  La  Torre  was  dis- 
posed to  sustain  the  humane  compact  for  regulating  the 
mode  of  war  agreed  upon  between  Bolivar  and  Morillo  ; 
Morales  was  opposed  to  it,  and  in  favour  of  an  exterminat- 
ing war.  His  ferocious  disposition,  and  his  license  of  in- 
discriminate plunder,  had  made  Morales  the  favourite  of  the 
Spaniards  and  renegado  Colombians,  who  sought  to  persuade 
themselves,  that  with  due  energy  the  republicans  would  be 
either  forced  to  lay  down  their  arms  or  be  exterminated.  La 
Torre  was  a  polished  generous  soldier,  and  looked  to  a  recon- 
ciliation by  a  magnanimous  policy.  Morales  was  as  unprin- 
cipled as  Morillo,  and  as  sanguinary  as  Boves,  and  above 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  19® 

all,  was  determined  to  secure  a  fortune  by  plunder  at  all 
events.  The  attacks  on  La  Torre's  honour  and  reputation 
were  made  known  to  him,  how  they  wert  prepared  and  circu- 
lated, and  left  him  no  alternative,  but  to  send  Morales  home 
in  irons,  or  to  resign  ;  his  generosity  forbid  the  first,  and 
when  his  resignation  and  the  causes  were  unequivocally  as- 
signed in  Spain,  he  was  appointed  to  Puerto  Rico.  Among 
the  stratagems  of  Morales,  he  caused,  through  one  of  his 
agents,  formerly  a  resident  of  Caracas,  imputations,  such  as 
above  noted,  to  be  published  in  some  gazettes  of  the  United 
States,  and  those  gazettes  were  sent  to  Madrid  as  proofs  of  the 
allegations!  Morales,  upon  the  retirement  of  La  Torre  to 
Puerto  Rico,  broke  the  treaty  concerning  the  conduct  of  the 
war,  and  carried  on  a  scene  of  ravage  and  plunder  along  the 
seaboard,  spreading  alarm  from  the  gulph  of  Paria  to  Cartha- 
gena,  and  carrying  desolation  to  the  borders  of  Merida  and 
Truxillo ;  at  Bayladoros,  when  we  reached  that  place,  the  in- 
habitants had  fled  to  the  Sierra  with  their  cattle  and  movea- 
bles ;  we  were  within  two  miles  of  the  Spaniards,  who  were  at 
Las  Puentas  when  we  arrived  at  Gritja.  Morales  in  1822 
issued  a  furious  proclamation  of  sanguinary  menaces  ;  which 
being  directed  against  all  persons  of  foreign  countries  who 
should  visit  Colombia,  Captain  Spence,  of  the  United  States 
navy,  promptly  issued  a  declaration,  that  the  United  States 
would  not  submit  to  such  menaces  against  their  citizens  who 
visited  Colombia,  and  in  such  spirited  and  magnanimous 
terms,  as  to  induce  the  tyrant  to  refrain  from  executing  his 
menaces. 

We  passed  through  Chirgua  the  29th  of  November,  and 
thence  to  Los  Hermanos,  aud  Tinaquilla.  The  mid-day  sun 
was  more  ardent  than  we  had  felt  it  since  we  left  Valencia ;  we 
therefore  had  moved  at  half  past  four  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  were  at  Tinaquilla  by  seven  o'clock,  where  we  break- 
fasted on  our  own  chocolate,  and  had  an  abundance  of  fine 
oranges,  alligator  pears,  and  delicious  bananas.  The  fervor 
of  the  sun  on  the  naked  rocky  declivities  had  not  abated,  at 


200  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

four  o'clock,  p.  M. ;  but  we  determined  to  proceed,  and,  de- 
scending by  winding  and  abrupt  rocky  passages,  we  gained 
the  gravelly  dry  bed  of  the  small  river  Tinapon,  which  flows 
into  the  Tinaco,  and  so  darkened  by  rich  vegetation  that  night 
seemed  already  to  have  come  upon  us,  and  gave  to  our  path 
the  temperature  of  a  subterranean  vault.  Emerging  from  this 
abyss,  we  ascended  by  winding  ravines  and  shelving  rocks, 
and  it  was  already  night  when  we  gained  the  bank  on  which 
stj^nds  the  village  of  Palmas.  The  river  whose  bed  we  tra- 
versed is  a  contributor  to  the  Tinaco,  which  is  itself  a  tribu- 
tary to  the  spacious  river  Portugueza. 

The  alcalde  of  Palmas,  a  dapper,  greasy  looking,  fat  little 
man,  belied  his  externals  more  than  can  well  be  imagined 
without  experiment ;  he  required  no  messenger,  and,  although 
it  was  eight  o'clock  at  night,  and  more  than  usually  dark  for 
the  climate,  he  had  my  bridle  in  his  hand  the  instant  I  halted, 
and  answering  his  own  questions,  for  he  made  no  pause  to 
bear,  said — "  the  Seiior  shall  have  accommodations,  the  best 
of  the  village — and  whatever  he  can  possibly  want."  It  was 
wholly  unnecessary  to  reply,  as  he  had  anticipated  every  thing 
•which  a  traveller  needs ;  and  we  followed  this  good-natured 
semejante  of  the  governor  of  Barrataria,  who  led  us  to  a  cot- 
tage of  no  great  compass,  where  the  cocks  and  hens  were 
already  at  roost  on  the  brace  beams  of  the  thatched  roof, 
which  appeared  to  have  been  japanned  with  the  best  black- 
ing, or  like  the  inside  of  a  smoke-house.  After  dislodging 
the  poultry  over  the  spaces  to  be  occupied  by  our  hammocks, 
which  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  suspending  in  irregu- 
lar angles,  and  not  parallel  as  customary,  for  the  space  would 
not  admit  of  three  in  a  row,  we  left  our  sergeant,  who  had, 
with  great  pleasure  to  himself,  and  to  our  advantage,  taken 
upon  himself  the  duty  of  hanging  up  Miss  Elizabeth's  ham- 
mock in  the  best  place,  and  that  of  the  colonel  in  the  next 
contiguous  position.  The  floor  of  our  apartment  was  rather 
uneven,  as  not  much  pains  had  been  bestowed  on  it  for  per- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  201 

haps  the  last  six  months,  or  years,  to  sweep  it,  or  to  level 
the  inequalities,  in  some  of  which  water,  not  very  pellucid 
nor  fragrant,  appeared  to  have  been  some  time  undisturbed. 
We  repaired,  therefore,  to  the  corridor — the  grey  haze  had 
become  somewhat  more  transparent,  and  some  handsome 
formed  trees  had  risen  in  the  caprice  of  nature  on  the  green 
slope,  reproving  by  their  brightness  and  beauty  the  negli- 
gence of  the  waking  dreamers,  who  vegetated  in  the  rank- 
ness  of  their  own  manure  within  doors. 

The  practice  of  constructing  cottages  in  all  the  warm  cli. 
mates,  exposed  to  rain  or  inundation,  has  a  strong  resem- 
blance. The  scite  and  dimensions  of  the  ground  plan  being 
measured  off  with  a  line,  or  guessed  off  by  the  eye,  a  bank 
of  earth,  raised  about  two  feet  above  the  natural  platform,  is 
prepared,  with  different  degrees  of  dexterity,  skill,  or  indif- 
ference ;  in  the  warm  regions  the  inappreciable  bamboo  fur- 
nishes the  uprights  at  the  angles  of  the  proposed  structure, 
and  the  jambs  of  the  door- ways;  the  temperature  instinctively 
determines  the  elevation  ;  where  the  atmosphere  is  subject 
to  cold  damps,  rains,  or  winds,  the  roofs  are  low ;  where  the 
heat  is  uniform,  or  sometimes  ardent,  the  height  of  the 
house  would  serve  as  a  kind  of  comparative  thermometer. 
So,  where  the  heat  is  constant,  mats  of  the  palm,  and  other 
abundant  materials,  form  the  thin  partitions  within  and  with- 
out, but  every  where  the  roof,  thatched  or  tiled,  presents  a 
colonade,  a  veranda,  or,  in  the  language  of  the  country,  a 
corridor  fronts  or  surrounds  the  house,  and  this  is  more  or 
less  spacious,  in  proportion  as  the  wealth  and  inclination  to 
obtain  comfort  by  accommodation  prevails.  This  corridor 
was,  in  fact,  only  a  continuation  of  the  sloping  line  of  the 
roof,  beyond  the  upright  partitions ;  and  either  a  continua- 
tion of  the  rafter-like  timbers  of  the  roof,  resting  their  ends 
on  a  line  of  upright  posts,  beyond  the  wall  or  partition  of 
the  house,  or  an  addition  subsequently  made.  As  this  de- 
scription of  the  cottage-architecture  will  serve  for  all  parts  of 

26 


203  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  country,  allowing  for  the  circumstances  to  which  we  have 
referred,  the  description  has  been  the  more  circumstantial, 
though  the  example  was  one  of  the  very  worst  I  had  seen. 
The  place  we  took  outside  was  the  raised  bank,  which  form- 
ed a  continuation  of  the  platform  within,  and  afforded  a  seat 
upon  which  the  sergeant,  with  an  untiring  attention  and  an- 
ticipation of  our  comfort,  placed  some  dry  hides  to  interpose 
between  our  garments  and  the  floor.  Here  we  had  an  excel- 
lent chicken  stew,  some  good  potatoes,  apios,  sweet  yuccas, 
and  an  abundance  of  eggs,  and  arepa^  or  bread  of  Indian 
corn,  to  which  keen  appetites  gave  a  delicious  and  enviable 
flavour;  and  as  we  had  brought  a  small  supply  of  wine,  as 
much  as  our  means  of  transport  would  admit,  we  were  here 
sufficiently  fatigued  to  derive  all  the  benefit  and  pleasure 
it  could  afford.  Our  little  oval  alcaldi  appeared  to  delight 
in  our  good  spirits,  laughter,  and  fun,  in  which  we  were  ac- 
customed to  indulge  on  the  sights  we  had  seen,  or  in  the 
mind's  eye, 

I  could  not  but  contrast,  in  this  kind  of  cogitation,  the  ha- 
bitations at  Palmas,  with  the  light,  airy,  ever  clean  bungalows 
of  Hindustan  ;  where  filth  never  remains  an  inmate,  nor  the 
garment  ever  soiled ;  where  the  pure  sweet  mat  covers  the 
commonest  floor,  where  no  garment  is  worn  that  does  not 
testify  to  its  snowy  purity.  The  taste  and  luxury  of  smok- 
ing was  not  less  striking.  In  Hindustan,  as  in  South  Ame- 
rica, all  persons  smoke,  every  man,  every  woman,  every  child ; 
in  South  America,  the  luxury  is  in  the  acrid  aroma  of  the 
tobacco,  augmented  by  the  perfume  of  the  vanilla.  In  Hin- 
dustan, it  is  the  poorest  people  only  who  smoke  the  cherut^ 
(or  cigar,)  in  its  raw  state  ;  the  waterman,  who  carries  his 
goat-skin  leather  bag  full  of  water  all  day  at  a  cent  a  bag ; 
the  bearer,  who  travels  with  a  human  load  on  his  shoulders, 
in  a  palankeen,  from  morning  to  night,  or  after,  at  two  hun- 
dred cents  a  month,  refines  in  the  luxury  of  smoking,  and 
embalms  his  tobacco  with  aromatics  or  assafostida,  and  di- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  203 

vests  it  of  acridity  by  passing  the  vapour  he  inhales  through 
pure  water — and,  when  he  can,  through  rose-water.  A  fe- 
male, of  the  same  relatively  humble  station,  would  scarcely 
use  a  cocoa-nut  for  this  purpose ;  art  and  ingenuity  had 
made  smoking  not  only  inoffensive  but  salubrious,  by  means 
of  what  is  called  a  hooka,  which,  I  make  no  doubt,  will  find 
its  way,  along  with  commerce,  to  the  plains  and  cities  of  the 
Andes,  when,  instead  of  concealing  the  cigar  from  the  conse- 
Joj  they  will  be  proud  to  exhibit  its  elegance,  and  smoke  with 
him — con-amore — out  of  the  same  pipe.  But  we  are  yet 
in  a  world  that  has  been  locked  up  three  hundred  years.  Be- 
fore the  Colombians  have  reached  an  equal  national  antiquity 
with  the  children  of  Bramah,  they  will,  perhaps,  abandon 
cigars,  and  adopt  the  hookah.  It  is  but  justice  to  say  of  the 
lovely  women  of  Colombia,  that  they  applaud  the  ladies  of 
the  United  States  for  not  adopting  this  custom  from  the 
men  :  it  continues  to  be  the  custom  in  South  America  to 
hand  cigars,  as  it  is  in  India  to  hand  beetily  or  a  nosegay,  or 
to  pour  rose-water  on  the  hands  of  visitors.  At  the  public 
and  private  assemblies  and  feasts  at  which  I  was  a  guest, 
both  in  Caracas  and  Bogota,  and  at  the  theatre,  where  smok- 
ing was  formerly  general,  it  is  no  longer  in  practice.  In 
some  private  houses  the  practice  of  smoking  is  continued, 
and  1  have  been  sometimes  so  well  clouded  or  smoked,  that 
with  a  little  aid  of  the  imagination  I  might  presume  that  I 
was  on  my  way  to  the  seventh  heaven  of  Mohamed  ;  vi^here 
nothing  could  be  seen  except  it  was  the  black  eyes  of  the 
angels,  peeping  and  twinkling  like  stars  through  the  clouds. 


204 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Leave  Palmas — Tinaco — hospitality  there — kind  manners — abundance  of  fish— 
Tisitors,  their  kindness — move  before  sunrise — bivouac — march  in  the  eve- 
ning— storm  approaching — take  shelter — oriental  customs — a  frail  habitation 
— oil-cloth  cloaks  beyond  value — men  and  mules  huddled  in  a  small  space — 
heavy  rain — delightful  sleep — San  Carlos — very  Asiatic  looking  city — churches 
resemble  mosques — female  peepers — latticed  windows — military  command- 
ant, his  lady  and  her  sister — amiable  frankness — their  excellent  chocolate — ■ 
good  cream — wheaten  cakes — sweetmeats — apprize  us  of  bad  roads — pas- 
sed St.  Jose — Ceyba — fine-flavoured  cow's  milk — a  venerable  widow — Caye- 
sita — El  Aitar,  a  remarkable  pass — obliged  to  climb  it — Humboldt's  Jicua 
gigantica  or  buttress  tree — Bejucas — rio  Coxede,  here  called  rio  Claro — some 
notices  of  fig-trees. 

After  sleeping,  fearless  of  impending  showers  from 
the  roosts  above  us,  and  indifferent  to  the  little  pools  of  un- 
gracious scent  beneath  our  hammocks, — we  were  on  our 
mules,  before  the  dawn  could  reveal  what  more  was  to  be 
seen  ;  the  alcalde,  with  his  chubby,  good-natured  face,  and 
his  japanned  leather  breeches,  was  as  punctual  as  his  pro- 
mise (a  very  novel  occurrence  among  some  of  that  species)* 
Some  bottles  of  fine  cow's  milk  were  ready  for  delivery, 
a  basket  of  eggs,  and  some  indifferent  oranges,  which  he  ex- 
cused for  not  being  as  good  as  they  should  be,  because,  he 
said,  he  did  not  make  them. — The  roosting,  milk,  eggs,  and 
all,  did  not  require  a  dollar  to  pay  the  whole  reckoning 
— and  in  Palmas,  I  question,  if  we  could  be  found  better 
for  a  thousand. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  thirtieth,  and  we  had  a  long 
warm  ride  over  the  elevated  ridge  of  Palmeria.  As  good- 
natured  alcaldes  are,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  rather 
scarce,  we  pushed  for  the  handsome  and  gay  village  of  Ti- 
naco, or,  as  some  of  the  inhabitants  named  it,  Tanac,  stand- 
ing on  a  brilliant  river  of  the  same  name,  which   is  a 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  205 

tributary  to  the  Portugueza  and  Apure.  As  we  rode  along 
the  street  of  entrance,  a  military  officer,  who  had  just  come 
to  the  gate,  seeing  us  a  little  dusty,  perhaps  languid,  po- 
litely invited  us  to  enter  ;  the  gates  being  thrown  open,  our 
grenadier,  without  stopping  to  enquire  what  we  should  do, 
made  his  salute,  and  rode  promptly  into  the  patio  ;  and  we, 
"  nothing  loth,"  were  soon  unhorsed,  our  mules  placed  in 
the  coraly  with  a  rich  service  of  young  sugar  cane ;  oar 
cook  gave  us  our  chocolate,  almost  as  soon  as  our  ham- 
mocks were  slung  up,  and  we  took  our  breakfast,  while  a 
gay  cantaristat  in  an  adjoining  apartment,  strummed  her  gui- 
tar,  and  sung  a  lively  air,  unconscious  of  so  many  strange 
listeners.  This  town  was  neat,  the  quarters  clean  and 
commodious,  and,  though  the  sun  shone  so  bright  and 
warm,  the  air  was  quite  sweet  and  elastic ;  the  bed  of  the 
river,  just  in  sight,  was  throughout  almost  as  white  as  snow^ 
composed  of  pebbles,  against  which  the  sprightly  stream 
seemed  to  sparkle.  The  sergeant,  who  knew  what  was 
peculiar  to  all  parts  of  the  route,  procured  a  basket,  and 
was  not  absent  five  minutes,  when  he  returned  with  it  near- 
ly full  of  fish,  much  resembling  the  winter  perch  of  the 
Delaware,  and  these  added  variety  to  our  day's  dinner. 
Fruit  was  abundant  and  fine,  and,  unless  it  was  for  the  use 
of  our  attendants,  we  rarely  sought  beef  or  pork  ;  the  poul- 
try being  every  where  fine,  and  the  eggs  and  chocolate  al- 
ways a  ready  and  pleasant  repast,  in  quarters,  or  in  the  forest, 
or  on  the  cool  paramo. 

Several  of  the  most  respectable  citizens  of  both  sexes 
honoured  us  with  a  visit  of  courtesy,  and  I  remarked  how 
solicitous  they  were  not  to  appear  too  inquisitive  ;  the  young 
folks,  in  the  usual  ingenuousness  of  their  years,  pressed  us 
to  stay  a  week  at  least,  and  assured  us  that  our  time  should 
be  made  agreeable  ;  some  sent  fine  bananas  and  pine  apples, 
others,  some  small,  but  fine  flavoured  oranges,  as  eviden- 
ces of  their  earnestness  for  our  stay  ;  we  were  not  behind 


206  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

them  in  expressions  of  thanks  and  respect,  and  refused,  with 
an  assurance,  that  good  inclinations  were  not  wanting,  but 
that  our  stay  could  not  be  protracted.  We  took  the  op- 
portunity to  lay  up  in  some  baskets,  arepa  bread,  rice,  sweet 
bananas,  some  raspadura  or  cakes  of  sugar,  some  bottles  of 
fresh  milk,  a  small  basket  of  limes,  plenty  of  young  onions, 
a  dozen  of  Uve  fowls — and  closing  our  evening  with  choco- 
late and  arepa — we  were  in  our  hammocks  before  nine 
o'clock,  determined  to  rise  before  the  sun. 

On  the  first  of  December,  at  three  o'clock,  A.  M.  we 
were  in  motion,  and  had  made  considerable  progress  by 
eight  o'clock,  when  we  halted  under  the  shade  of  a  lofty 
forest,  on  a  bank,  from  which  issued  a  limpid  stream.  We 
hung  up  our' hammocks,  resolved  to  rest  and  refresh  during 
the  heat  of  the  day.  By  the  aid  of  the  sergeant's  magazine  of 
flint,  steel,  and  matches,  a  fire  was  soon  blazing  in  front, 
and  our  chocolate  was  soon  frothing.  Our  limes,  which 
were  excellent,  enabled  us  while  they  lasted  to  make  a  be- 
verage of  lemont.de,  with  the  aid  of  the  raspadura^  and  some 
tortiimas^  that  is,  bowls  made  of  the  shell  of  the  calabash ; 
no  traveller  goes  without  a  tortuma,  for  the  convenience  of 
drinking  on  the  road.  We  had  a  pleasant  nap  in  the  shade, 
while  the  heat  abroad  was  more  than  usually  ardent ;  our 
mules  had  alongside  a  rich  pasture,  and  were  well  refresh- 
ed by  three  o'clock,  P.  M.  when  we  moved  off  the  ground. 

We  soon  emerged  from  the  forest  upon  the  open  sloping 
plain ;  the  ridges  on  our  right  were  much  diminished  by  dis- 
tance, those  on  our  left  obscured  by  clouds  ;  a  delightful 
green  sward,  with  a  few  dispersed  clumps  of  low  thicket, 
some  i^w  trees  of  various  figures  and  elevation,  were  scattered 
over  the  plain ;  the  green  sod  was  ornamented  with  wild 
flowers  and  flowering  shrubs,  some  of  which  were  familiar, 
and  the  greater  number  strangers  to  us ;  the  atmosphere, 
however,  soon  became  humid,  and  the  air  close  and  sultry, 
the  clouds  appearing  ready  to  burst  in  the  south-east.     An 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  207 

©pen  cottage,  or  caravanserai,  which  had  been  once  inhabited, 
but  now  tenantless,  stood  on  the  road  side ;  I  determined  to 
take  sheher  there  from  the  evidently  approaching  storm,  not- 
withstanding the  anero's  unsought  advice,  and  accordingly 
rode  in  beneath  the  roof,  and  mules  and  all  followed  in  suc- 
cession. 

The  usages  in  Colombia,  and  all  South  America,  in  rela- 
tion to  the  traveller,  and  accommodations  on  the  road,  corres- 
pond remarkably  with  those  of  Asia.  The  duties  and  func- 
tions of  alcaldes  are  exactly  those  of  the  cauzis  of  Hindustan. 
Whether  it  be  custom  or  institution  I  had  not  inquired,  but 
in  the  villages,  and  often  on  the  road  where  there  is  no  vil- 
lage, but  where  some  pulpureia,  or  huckster's  shop  is  usually 
established,  the  traveller  finds  a  shed,  that  is,  a  roof  thatched, 
without  any  side  walls  but  the  posts  which  sustain  the  roof. 
In  the  peninsula  of  India,  places  of  this  kind  are  called  choul- 
tries, in  the  west  of  India,  serais ;  whence  the  Persian  cara- 
vanserais. There  had  been  a  pulpureia  at  this  place,  but  its 
debris  only  remained,  and  it  had  been  so  long  since  the  hand 
of  repair  had  touched  our  choultry  or  caravanserai,  that  the 
palm  leaf  thatch  had  suffered  the  light  and  the  rain  to  find 
more  places  of  admission  than  between  the  pillared  sides. 
We  proceeded  as  usual  to  hang  up  our  hammocks,  so  that 
we  should  (as  much  as  possible)  escape  the  pelting  of  the 
storm.  Bipeds  and  quadrupeds  were  all  huddled  beneath 
this  fragile  roof.  Our  trunks  were  ranged  end  to  end  on  the 
leeward  side,  on  which  the  sergeant,  with  his  saddle  for  a 
pillow,  and  his  velice  as  shelter  on  the  outside,  placed  him- 
self, and  the  others  on  dry  cow  hides,  one  serving  to  sepa- 
rate the  body  from  the  floor,  and  another,  like  the  roof  of  a 
house,  to  cast  off  the  rain  :  and  as  each  had  his  blanket,  they 
lay  down  with  perfect  indifference  to  the  approaching  rain,  of 
which  the  sprinklings  gave  warning.  The  mules  and  their 
associate  muleteers  had  the  farther  end  of  the  serai  to  them- 
selves, and  their  panniers,  ropes,  and  provender  formed  a 
line  of  demarcation  between  them  and  our  hammocks.   The 


208  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

oil-cloth  cloaks  were  on  this  occasion  of  particular  value ; 
we  placed  them  over  our  hammocks,  so  that,  when  the  rain 
came   on   heavily,    though   it  poured    tlirough    the   thatch 
abundantly,  we  remained  perfectly  secure  and  dry  ;  the  rain 
was  little  more  than  mizzling  when  the  grey  light  came  on, 
and  we  finished  a  repast,  in  order  to  close  all  baggage  for  an 
early  march,  but  the  skies  soon  became  troublous,  the  thun- 
der roared  and  reverberated  among  the  mountains,  and  the 
clouds  poured  their  force  with  all  the  volumes  of  tropical  tor- 
rents ;  but  we  went   to  sleep  without  any  more  discontent 
than  if  we  were  snug  in  Philadelphia,  and  slept  later  than  we 
intended  ;  the  air  was  so  sweet  and  exhilarating,  we  did  not 
awake  till  past  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  Decem- 
ber, and  having  a  beautiful  clump  of  trees  and  odoriferous 
wild  plants  close  to  our  hospidage^  we  had  our  trunks  brought 
out  and  arranged  for  a  comfortable  meal,  seasoned  by  a  fine 
appetite,  of  chocolate,  eggs,  and  arepa   bread.     We  were 
mounted,  and  crossed  the  Oropu,  time  enough  in  advance 
to  see  San  Carlos  rising  before  us,   embowered  in  lofty  trees 
and  shrubbery  ;   the  domes  and  turrets  of  its  churches,  in  as- 
pects so  oriental  and  picturesque,  that  the  idea  of  an  Hindu 
pagoda  seemed  so  real,  and  the  whole  picture  so  like  Futty- 
ghur  in  Hindustan,  that  for  an  instant  I  was  at  a  loss  to  say 
whether  it  was  an  illusion  or  a  reality  ;  the  narrow  streets  and 
llie  intervals  between  houses,  and  the  exuberance  of  vegeta- 
tion, particularly  the  banana  and  other  tropical  plants,  that  I 
could  not  persuade  myself  that  I  had  not  been  there  before. 
The   houses  soon   became  continuous,  though   the   streets 
were  still  not  more  than   ten  to  twelve  feet  broad,  and  we 
sauntered  along  the  pavement,   admiring  the  very  striking 
Asiatic  style  of  the  houses  and  churches  ;  the  lozenged  lat- 
tice closing  small  windows,  which  did  not  however  conceal 
the  eyes  of  curiosity  peeping  through  them.     Here  too  the 
military  commandant  was  in  advance  of  our  wishes,  and  we 
were  conducted  through  an  ample  patio,  bounded  on  every 


m 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  2^ 

side  by  a  handsome  and  spacious  corridore,  in  which  the  fif- 
teen inch  tile  was  more  than  usually  well  dressed  and  laid. 
The  inconvenience  incident  to  my  accident  at  Valencia,  r^-n- 
dered  it  necessary  to  halt  this  day,  as,  though  I  caret ully 
avoided  complaint,  I  suffered  much  pain  before  we  reached 
Barquisimeto.  > 

The  rank  of  the  commandant  here  was  that  of  major,  at]d 
his  lady  and  her  sister  introducing  themselves  with  an  amia- 
ble frankness,  we  soon  became  perfectly  familiar.  They 
did  not  enquire  about  our  concerns ;  but  were  very  much 
delighted  to  learn  (I  suppose  from  the  serjeant)  that  the 
young  lady,  who  left  home  in  a  feeble  state  of  health,  was 
restored  to  the  full  bloom  of  heahh  and  robustness,  and  in 
excellent  spirits,  by  the  air  of  Colombia.  They  compli- 
mented us  with  some  uncommonly  fine  chocolate,  and  what 
we  had  not  for  some  time  seen,  good  cream,  wheaten  cakes, 
and  sweetmeats ;  fine  fruit  never  omitted.  They  wished  ms 
to  stop  a  week,  and  apprised  us  of  the  difficulties  of  the  roacJi 
particularly  the  pass  of  El  Altar  ^  and  the  winding  valley  lead- 
ing over  the  plains  to  Barquisimeto. 

On  the  3d  we  passed  through  the  village  of  San  Jose, 
three  miles  from  San  Carlos,  and  the  village  of  Ceyba ;  be- 
yond which  the  road  turns  off  at  Camaroukata  to  the  north- 
west ;  we  sought  refreshment  without  success  at  a  Posoda 
in  Camaracata,  or  Camaroukata — for  our  muleteers  and  guide 
differed  as  to  the  name  :  we  were  more  fortunate  in  procur- 
ing some  cow's  milk,  which  a  venerable  old  lady,  in  deep 
mourning,  milked  into  the  calabash  bowls  for  us,  and  of 
which  we  had  more  than  three  or  four  quarts,  for  which  she 
asked  no  more  than  a  media,  that  is,  a  sixteenth  of  a  dollar. 
The  abundance  and  excellence  of  the  article  made  it  so 
cheap,  that  I  feared  she  wronged  herself,  and  I  inferred  from 
her  attire  and  the  downcast  eye,  and  air  of  melancholy  abopt 
her,  that  adversity  had  dealt  hard  with  her,  that  she  had  been 
stricken  by  the  war,  and  had,  perhaps,  to  mourn  tlie  compa- 

27 


UIO  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

nion  of  her  youth ;  she  seemed  to  be  gratified  in  serving 
strangers,  and  this  gratification  seemed  to  be  all  to  her,  and 
the  value  nothing ;  for  when  asked  the  price,  she  seemed  not 
to  seek  even  thanks,  but  looked  as  if  to  learn  whether  or  not 
we  were  pleased  j  and  when  she  named  a  price,  and  re- 
ceived what  she  asked,  it  seemed  to  be  with  reluctance,  and 
as  if  she  would  refuse,  but  feared  to  offend  by  an  appearance 
of  false  pride ;  we  thanked  her  from  our  hearts,  and  sug- 
gested that  the  compensation  was  not  enough ;  to  which 
she  replied  only  by  a  negative  turning  of  her  head,  continu- 
ing to  look  at  us  with  silent  kindness  for  a  time  ;  and  while  a 
tear  found  utterance,  her  eyes  were  fixed  upon  us,  as  if  she 
had  lost  some  one,  husband,  son,  or  daughter — and  the  cur- 
rent of  tender  feelings  gushed  out  as  we  bid  her  adieu — she 
stood  immoveable,  with  her  eyes  fixed  upon  us  as  we  con- 
tinued our  way,  to  a  considerable  distance ;  I  turned  often 
round,  and  she  still  was  there ;  her  attitude  unchanged ; 
and  when  we  turned  the  last  angle  which  was  to  separate  us 
from  her  view  for  ever,  I  returned  a  few  paces  back  to  look, 
and  still  she  stood  fixed,  musing  upon  that  sorrow  which 
we  were  solicitous,  but  could  not  ask  her  to  unravel.  I 
learned,  farther  on,  that  she  had  lost  her  husband,  who  was 
a  Frenchman,  and  her  youthful  son  in  battle. 

We  reached  Cayesita  the  3d,  and  barely  halted  to  procure 
some  guarapa  for  our  attendants,  prior  to  passing  El  Altar. 
After  winding  through  a  long  and  shaded  mazy  alley,  over- 
arched with  rich  foliage  and  thick  forest  trees,  the  lane  of 
gravel  washed  by  a  shallow,  but  limpid  rivulet,  the  spread- 
ing sides  of  which  were  garnished  by  an  abundance  of  the 
finest  water-cresses,  (of  which  we  took  care  to  bring  some 
away)  we  slowly  crawled  along,  over  pebbles  beautifully 
rounded,  and  of  different  degrees  of  brightness,  yellow, 
white,  brown,  and  red ;  we  were  at  last  ascending,  to  our 
left,  the  path  still  only  fit  for  passage^  in  Indian  file ;  sud- 
denly breaking  from  the  covert,  we  could  discern  the  ariero 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  311 

and  his  man,  on  the  summit  of  a  steep  rock,  hauling  up  by 
ropes  the  last  trunk  of  our  baggage.  We  had  ordered  on 
the  baggage  an  hour  before  our  departure,  expecting  that 
they  would,  gain  the  valley  before  us ;  in  a  few  minutes  we 
found  the  road  occupied  the  whole  way  across  by  a  lofty 
vertical  rock,  seeming  to  say,  "  thus  far  shalt  thou  go,  and 
no  farther." 

The  muleteers  had  been  under  the  necessity  of  unlading 
the  mules,  and  we  must  of  course  follow  them.  At  the 
first  view  it  would  seem  as  if  we  had  come  the  wrong  road, 
but  the  fact  was  not  so,  for  there  was  no  other ;  and  it  seemed 
unaccountable,  that  no  one  should  have  made  a  road  at  either 
side  of  this  rock,  which  it  appeared  could  be  done  with  no 
other  tools  than  an  axe  and  a  spade ;  but  every  one  must 
pass  the  same  climbing  passage.  Our  sergeant,  to  whom 
this  place  was  familiar,  dismounted,  and  leading  his  mule  to 
the  foot  of  the  rock,  it  was  climbed  without  hesitation  ;  we 
also  dismounted,  and  our  mules  ascending  with  no  more 
difficulty,  we  followed  the  mules  by  stepping  where  they 
had  stepped ;  for  myself,  I  looked  down  with  amazement 
when  I  gained  the  top.  It  was  near  an  hour  before  we 
could  proceed  forward  in  our  descent  to  the  valley,  which, 
as  soon  as  it  opened  upon  us,  presented  a  prospect  in  every 
way  different  from  any  prospects  we  had  already  seen. 

Before  I  left  Caracas,  I  had  read  in  Humboldt's  Personal 
Narrative,  Vol.  IV.  p.  75,  of  a  tree,  which  he  calls  a  new 
kind  of  fig-tree,  and  he  names  ''^Jicus  gigantea,  from  its 
attaining  the  height  of  an  hundred  feet ;  and  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Buenavista  and  Los  Teques,  the  Jicus  nymphafo- 
lia.^"^  The  description  he  has  given  of  this  new  Jicus^  in- 
duced me  to  seek  it  as  we  passed  the  mountains  whereon  he 
described  it  as  growing  with  its  stupendous  buttresses,  but 
I  suppose  it  escaped  me  in  the  midst  of  those  clouds  in 
which  the  mountains  were  involved  at  the  time  I  passed. 
The  ardour  of  the  sun  in  passing  the  plains  and  the  slopes, 
tempered  by  numerous  rivers  and  streams,  and  forests  ex- 


2fS  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ciudmg  air,  and  retaining  moisture,  made  the  difference  of 
temptratiire  agreeable,  when  compared  with  the  sultry  close 
atniohphere  ot  this  valley,  where  the  magnitude  of  the  trees 
was  such  as  I  had  not  seen  before  on  any  part  of  the  route. 
The  two  immense  trees  at  Maracay,  which  he  names  Tm- 
mangy  are  great  curiosities,  and  my  young  companions  saw 
them  with  admiration  ;  to  me,  however,  they  were  less  ob- 
jects of  curiosity,  because,  as  magnitude  has  relation  to  some 
measure,  the  Zamang  was  diminutive  by  my  standard  of  ad- 
miration, which  was  the  banyan  tree  of  Hindustan. 

Though  disappointed  of  seeing  the  buttress  tree  on  Cu- 
quisias,  it  was  the  first  which  attracted  my  attention  in  this 
valley  of  El  Altar.  In  this  sultry,  deep  solitude,  surrounded 
by  perpendicular  walls  of  mountain  rock,  this  buttress  tree, 
by  Humboldt  called  Jicus  gigantea,  flourishes  in  lofty  lux- 
uriance, with  mighty  buttresses,  which  seemed  so  pow- 
erfully sustained  as  to  defy  all  force  but  actual  dissolution. 
The  elevation  of  many  was  more  than  150  feet,  and  the  shaft 
of  the  tree  of  fantastic  shapes  from  eight  to  ten  feet  diame- 
ter ;  but  a  horizontal  line  three  or  four  feet  from  the  ground, 
taking  the  outer  lines  of  two  opposite  buttresses,  would  give 
double  that  diameter.  The  soil  of  the  road,  or  ravine,  lying 
across  the  roots  of  those  trees,  was  washed  away  by  succes- 
sive floods,  and  the  roots  themselves,  larger  than  ordinary 
tiitees,  lay  in  all  directions,  sometimes  two  feet  above  the 
earth,  sending  forth  numerous  lesser  roots ;  which  com- 
pelled the  traveller  to  wind  round  those  trees  in  all  directions, 
from  the  difficulty  of  passing  over  them  ;  and  the  valley  ap- 
peared covered  with  a  monstrous  net  of  these  stupendous 
roots.  The  buttresses  are  well  described  by  Humboldt,  re- 
sembling in  their  forms  masses  of  wood,  having  their  outer 
base  line  five,  six,  or  seven  feet  from  the  vertical  stem  of  the 
tfiie,'^  tyith  intervals  between,  showing  the  upright  stem,  and 
composed  of  compact  timber,  a  growing  part  of  the  tree, 
without  separation  from  it,  only  that  the  buttress-shaped  part 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S18 

has  the  sloped  line,  from  five  to  six  or  eight  feet  from  the 
ground,  and  extending  outward  to  five,  six,  or  seven  feet  at 
the  base. 

Tlie  branches  of  this  tree  proceed  in  a  horizontal  direc- 
tion from  the  stem,  at  twenty  to  thirty  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  often  not  lower  than  fifty  or  sixty  feet ;  but  in  this  val- 
ley, the  Bejucas^  a  kind  of  a  giant  vine,  throw  their  elastic 
limbs  from  branch  to  branch,  and  from  tree  to  tree,  sending 
down  limbs  of  different  thicknesses,  from  the  size  of  a 
twine,  to  three  and  four  inches  in  diameter,  descending  the 
trunk  of  the  buttress  tree  capriciously,  and  sometimes  inju- 
riously to  the  traveller  ;  sometimes  they  appear  with  a  hang- 
ing curve  like  a  slack  rope,  sixty  or  a  hundred  feet  above ; 
again  they  are  found,  firmly  embracing  two  contiguous 
trees,  and  stretched  between,  at  two,  three,  five,  or  eight 
feet  above  the  ground,  so  that  the  foot  passenger,  and  the 
man  on  horse  or  mule,  is  sometimes  tripped,  or  drawn  off 
the  horse  or  mule.  In  such  cases,  a  sharp  tomahawk  or 
hatchet  would  open  a  passage,  over  dry  ground,  where,  to 
avoid  it,  there  may  be  a  necessity  of  crossing  a  mire  or  pool, 
of  which  the  depth  or  danger  is  not  seen.  The  trees  of 
other  species,  some  oaks  and  ash  trees  in  the  same  valley, 
look  like  shrubs,  along  side  the  Jicus  giganticus.  The  Rio 
Coxede  or  Rio  Claro,  flows  on  the  right  side  of  this  valley, 
having  its  sources  in  the  great  Cordillera,  which  is  a  conti- 
nuation of  that  of  Merida.  Its  upper  streams  commence 
about  twenty  miles  west  of  Barquisimeto,  and  pursue  a 
course,  generally  north-east,  to  near  El  Altar,  where  it  sud- 
denly winds  to  the  south,  or  a  little  curving  to  the  west  of 
south,  when,  in  the  latitude  of  Aurare,  it  takes  a  decided 
course  a  point  east  of  south,  it  unites  with  the  Tinaco,  and 
with  the  Rio  Portugueza,  which  descends  into  the  Apure. 
This  river  derives  considerable  celebrity  from  the  sanguina- 
ry battle  fought  there,  in  which,  more  than  five-hundred 
men   on  each  side  were  put  hors  de  combat. 

Without  any  other  pretensions  to  knowledge  of  the  natural 


214  VISIT   TO  COLOMBIA. 

sciences,  than  that  of  a  general  reader  and  casual  observer,  my 
pursuits  have  made  me  more  conversant  with  books  than 
botany  ;  the  name  given,  by  Humboldt,  to  this  tree  with  large 
buttresses — -jicus  gigantica,  has  added  to  some  difficulties 
and  incongruities,  which,  among  others,  have  casually  taken 
away  the  pleasure  looked  for  in  seeking  knowledge. 

The  fruit,  so  well  known  in  all  temperate  climates,  is  by 
Botanical  writers  named  Ficus  CaricGy  from  the  country  from 
which  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived.  Now  the  ordinary 
signification  of  the  wavcvg  Jig. tree  \s  **  a  tree  that  bears  figs.'* 
The  mode  of  classification  by  the  flowers,  will  not  sanction 
this  appellation  to  other  trees,  and  this  contradictory  mode  of 
denomination  is  not  calculated  to  afford  true  knowledge,  nor 
induce  respect  for  the  science.  Among  the  trees  which  are 
named  J?/7wj,  the  number  is  considerable,  and  the  dissimili- 
tude remarkable — such  as  fall  under  recollection  and  refer- 
ence at  the  moment,  are  the  following : — 

1.  Ficus,  Ficus  Carica,  Fig-tree. 

fthe  Indian  fig-tree,")      ,     , 

2.  Ficus  Indicus,         \  the  arched  fig-tree,  I   the  banyan-tree 

Ithegodtreef  J        of  Hindustan. 

3.  Ficus  Indka,  S"*""^  paradisiaca,        the  banana. 

'  I  musa  sapientum,  the  plantain. 

4.  Ficus  infemalis,  Palraa  Christi,  Castor-oil  plant. 

5.  Ficus  Indicae granis.  Cactus  cochinillifer,     J^^chineT/c*  f  s' 

6.  Ficus  Cactus  ofiun-'}  r>     ^  ^.  -i-.  •  ,  , 

.^.g  ^  Cactus  opuntia,  Pnckly  pear. 

7.  Ficus  ei^antica  of  >  _ 

Humboldt,  5  Buttress-tree. 

8.  Fig-tree  of  Tana,       of  the  New  Hebrides,  mentioned  in  Fos- 

ter's Cook's  Voyages,  vol.  ii,  p.  334-392. 

There  are  some  others,  as  the  Ficus  Sativa^  Ficus  aridoy  &c. 
but  not  one  of  the  above  bears  the  least  resemblance,  in  magni- 
tude, foliage,  flower,  fruit,  or  figure,  to  the  Fici^  Carica.    The 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  215 

second,  or  banyan  tree,  bears  a  small  red  berry,  about  the  size 
of  a  red  currant :  this  tree  is  happily  described  in  the  ninth 
book  of  Paradise  Lost,  though  I  am  inclined  to  think,  from  a 
striking  error  in  Milton's  description,  that  he  has  confounded 
the  banyan  with  the  banana,  giving  the  banyan  tree  all  its 
magnificent  limbs  and  extension ;  and,  instead  of  its  own 
small  laurel-like  leaves,  he  has  given  it  the  beautiful  leaves 
of  the  banana :  the  passage  is  as  follows  : 

There  soon  they  chose 

The  fig-tree,  not  that  kind  for  fruit  renowned, 

But  such  as  at  this  day  to  Indians  known. 

In  Malabar  or  Decan,  spreads  her  arms. 

Branching  so  broad  and  long,  that  in  the  ground 

The  bended  twigs  take  root,  and  daughters  grow 

About  the  mother  tree,  a  pillar'd  shade  : 

There  oft  the  Indian  herdsman  shunning  heat. 

Shelters  in  cool,  and  tends  his  pasturing  herds 

At  loop-holes  cut  through  thickest  shade  :  thoae  leavet 

They  gathered,  broad  as  Amazonian  targe, 

And  with  that  skill  they  had  together  sewed. 

The  tree  so  well  described  in  other  respects,  than  the 
leaves  broad  as  Amazonian  targe,  is  exact,  only  that  Milton 
implies  it  bears  no  fruit.  How  came  Milton  to  be  mistaken  ? 
He  was  in  fact  misinformed  of  the  natural  fruit  and  leaves  of 
the  tree,  as  he  was  of  the  geographical  distinction  in  the  same 
elegant  description,  for  Malabar  was  part  of  the  Dccan  when 
he  wrote.  Perhaps  the  mistake  was  produced  by  the  banana 
being  also  named  Jicus  indica,  which  really  bears  "  those 
leaves  as  broad  as  Amazonian  targe  :"  botanical  science,  in 
Milton's  time,  was  yet  scarcely  in  its  infancy,  and  India  and 
its  products  little  known  to  literature ;  he  confounded  two 
plants,  taking  the  broad  leaves  of  the  one  for  those  of  the 
other.  Here  then  the  error  may  have  arisen,  and  has  been 
confounded,  from  his  authority,  by  naturalists  generally. 

The  banana  and  plantain  are  only  species  of  the  same  ge- 
nus ;  in  every  thing  they  are  exactly  the  same,  but  in  the  dif- 


S16  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ferent  magnitude  and  flavour  of  their  fruit :  the  banana  is 
a  sweet  luscious  fruit,  and  when  ripe  is  superior  in  richness 
to  the  fig ;  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  a  soft  butter  pear,  but 
without  acid :  the  fruit  is  not  produced  single  like  the  com- 
mon fig,  or  the  apple,  flowering  and  coming  to  maturity  on  de- 
tached branches  or  single  stalks,  but  in  bunches,  side  by  side, 
from  a  thick  elastic  and  strong  strap-like  membrane,  issuing 
from  the  head  of  the  plant  j  for  it  is  not  in  the  botanical  sense 
a  tree ;  its  growth  is  from  the  elevation  of  ten  to  fifteen  leet, 
but  its  stem  is  not  wood ;  there  is  no  wood  in  any  part  of 
the  plant.  The  root,  when  divested  of  the  numerous 
shoots  which  it  throws  out,  appears  like  a  yam ;  the  roots 
planted  are  placed  in  rows  at  ten  feet  apart ;  from  this  root  se- 
veral suckers  rise,  but  they  are  timely  arrested  in  order  to  se- 
cure the  stem  that  is  preferred.  From  the  eye  of  the  growing 
sucker,  a  small  tube  shoots  up  resembling  the  rolling  of  a  fine 
pea- green  China  paper  on  a  round  stick  ;  when  about  three  or 
four  feet  high,  another  tubular  roll  issues  through  the  first, 
and  thus  it  continues  to  produce  new  tubes  till  it  gains  its 
natural  height ;  as  the  plant  elevates  itself  from  within  the  first 
tube,  and  the  second,  and  so  to  ten  or  to  fifty  are  expanded, 
it  throws  out  beautiful  leaves  of  eight  to  ten  feet  long,  and 
three  to  four  feet  broad,  which  bend  outward,  giving  the  figure 
to  the  plant :  the  base  of  the  stem  is  formed  of  a  green,  pithy, 
fibrous,  vegetable  substance,  in  which  the  stem  of  every  leaf 
has  its  share.  It  is  an  annual  plant,  and  there  are  more  than 
twenty  species,  only  differing  in  the  sweetness  or  insipidity 
of  their  fruit.  The  great  plantain,  sometimes  called  miisa 
sapientum,  produces  a  very  large,  and,  when  raw,  insipid 
fruit ;  but  it  is  used  for  food  in  various  shapes ;  roasted  in 
the  embers,  it  becomes  an  agreeable  food,  much  resembling 
the  sweet  potato ;  boiled  with  meat  cut  up  into  short  pieces, 
it  boils  like  a  potato,  and  is  much  preferable  to  the  yucca. 
The  bearing  ligament  of  this  plant  shows  frequently  fifty  to 
sixty  plantains  of  ten  to  sixteen  inches  long,  and  two  inches 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S17 

thick,  each  weighing  from  one  to  four  pounds.  The  fruit 
of  this  plant  is  the  main  food  of  seven-tenths  of  the  people, 
who  arc  not  opulent,  in  all  parts  of  South  America,  where  it 
thrives ;  it  is  more  generally  an  article  of  transport  and  sale 
than  any  other  in  the  country  ;  every  road  presents  mules  la- 
den with  plantains ;  I  have  met  fifty  in  one  drove  with  no 
other  lading  ;  every  pulpureia  deals  in  them,  and  it  composes 
the  principal  stock  of  the  shop.  The  name  of  musa  paradi- 
siacOf  is  perhaps  derived  from  some  traditional  prejudices, 
among  which  are  the  use  of  the  leaves,  as  Milton  describes 
them  serving  as  garments  for  mother  Eve  in  Paradise ;  ano- 
ther tradition  is,  that  the  sweet  banana  was  itself  the  forbid- 
den fruit,  but  whether  emblematic  from  its  shape,  or  what 
other  allusion,  cannot  need  inquiry.  It  is  a  mistake,  also, 
that  the  tree  is  cut  down  to  get  at  the  fruit ;  that  is  not  neces- 
sary, though  it  decays  annually.  These  remarks  are  more 
than  I  intended ;  similar  remarks  as  to  the  misnomer  Jicus 
would  apply  to  every  other  tree  so  named. 

We  continued  our  march  in  this  entangled,  tiresome,  and 
sultry  valley,  having  the  Coxcde  on  our  right  for  several 
miles,  the  thickets  unsubdued  concealing  the  river,  and  rank 
with  the  luxuriance  of  the  cane  and  the  palms,  of  which  I 
discerned  several  date  trees.  Here  I  saw  first  a  plant  which 
rises  only  in  a  single  leaf  nearly  as  large  as  the  banana,  thence 
denominated  the  wild  plantain ;  it  is  used  for  packing  cof- 
fee, cacao,  and  other  articles  in  bales.  This  digression, 
though  not  entirely  called  for,  serves  nevertheless  to  make 
better  known  some  of  the  natural  productions  of  Colombia. 


28 


S18 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Knter  a  rich  country — Baladera — Gamalatol — Santa  Rosa — opulence  and  change 
of  manners — Barquisimeto — wade  the  river — ascent — pious  alcalde — remain 
in  the  street — exhibited  two  hours — relieved  by  a  military  man  passing — Dr. 
F.  Mullery — the  commandant's  quarters — who  is  absent — a  present  of  fruit 
from  the  village  opposite — Senor  Lara — alcalde  finishes  his  oraciones — and 
finds  an  un-christian  like  cause  of  offence — feel  indisposed — notice  of  Barqui- 
simeto— military  depot  at  Santa  Rosa — country  adjacent — rich  in  products — 
commandant — malice  of  the  pious  alcalde — interview  with  the  commandant — 
and  find  him  a  warm  friend — alcalde  bites  his  thumb — anecdotes — shock  of  an 
earthquake — march  10th  December — dismal  plain — fit  theatre  for  Milton,  Vir- 
gil, or  John  Bunyan — Quibor — find  a  pure  atmosphere — birds  of  plumage  and 
song — paroquets  and  cacao — the  linnet  of  Europe  here — the  perfume  of  the 

locust  blossom  reveals  its  presence,  yet  unseen Tucuyo its  river  and 

rich  valley — halt  in  the  suburbs — a  sombrero  manufacturer — hospitality — en- 
ter the  town — received  in  the  commandant's  quarters — his  lady's  kindness — 
her  orgeat — and  medical  treatment — visited  by  Dr.  Leonardo,  the  friend  of 
Dr.  Mullery — he  commends  the  lady's  prescription,  and  why — visitors — travel 
carried  in  my  hammock  by  peons. 

Our  first  place,  after  passing  La  Bocca  de  la  Montana, 
was  Baladera,  a  small  village  engaged  in  cultivation ;  thence 
we  proceeded  to  Gamalatol,  and  here  was  very  perceptible 
more  business  and  bustle  than  I  had  seen  since  we  left  the 
valley  of  Aragua ;  the  route  from  the  valley  to  the  road  was 
a  continued  but  not  a  rapid  ascent,  and  we  began  to  feel  the 
delight  of  a  soft  fanning  breeze,  while  our  track  changed  to  a 
descent  as  we  passed  through  the  small  hamlet  of  La  Muri- 
ta  by  Restrajos  to  Caudares,  from  whence  to  the  bed  of  the 
river  Coxede,  which  here  takes  the  name  of  Santa  Rosa,  the 
descent  is  more  steep.  It  was  a  festival,  and  the  young 
folks  were  displaying  their  finery,  not  a  spurious  shew,  but, 
though  gay  in  colours,  and  more  like  the  fashions  of  other 
countries,  the  whole  place  gave  evidence  of  more  than 
usual  industry,  activity,  and  opulence.    It  was  observed,  as 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  219 

we  approached  this  place,  that  the  children,  even  to  the 
youngest,  were  clothed,  and  in  a  neat  and  tasty  manner. 
Many  young  ladies,  with  their  beaux,  were  dressed  in  silk 
of  bright  tints  and  in  a  most  excellent  taste  ;  though  there  is 
no  part  of  Colombia  where  the  females  are  not  remarkable  for 
their  small  feet,  of  which  I  don't  know  why  they  should  not 
be  proud,  and  I  suppose  that  it  is  in  the  same  frank  spirit  they 
are  not  so  coquettish  as  many  young  persons,  who,  with  the 
same  inclination  to  display,  affect  not  to  know  it.  The  neat- 
ness of  their  silk  shoes,  laced  in  the  sandal  fashion,  and  the 
saucy  breeze  ascending  from  the  adjacent  river,  displaying 
more  of  their  silk  stockings  than  they  seemed  to  intend, 
could  not  but  attract  the  eye  of  the  traveller  sauntering  along, 
and  he  must  be  a  stoic  who  could  not  afford  a  smile  on  per- 
ceiving the  pleasant  disorder  of  the  pretty  Senoritas;  it 
would  be  a  sort  of  miracle  if  they  did  not  laugh  too,  on 
seeing,  by  the  strangers'  significant  leer,  that  their  con- 
fusion was  understood.  Indeed  it  was  not  possible  but  to 
admire  their  graceful  and  elastic  gait,  or  to  feel  pretended  re- 
sentment, when  they  sought  to  be  revenged  by  laughing 
louder  at  the  dusty  wayworn  figures  that  smiled  at  the  wan- 
tonness of  the  breeze. 

We  had  intended  to  see  more  of  this  lively  place,  but,  on 
enquiry  of  a  civil  gentleman  whom  a  touch  of  his  hat  led  me 
to  ask  the  distance  to  Barquisimeto,  he  pointed  to  it  on  an 
elevated  platform  not  far  from  the  bank  of  the  river,  on  the 
opposite  side.  But  he  was  not  content  with  wordly  civility, 
he  invited  us  to  halt  and  rest  at  his  house,  and  welcome,  and 
that  we  should  find  that  place  much  more  comfortable  and 
agreeable  than  at  the  other  side  of  the  river ;  we  were  grate- 
ful and  thanked  him,  though  we  declined,  and  he  accompa- 
nied us  to  the  usual  fordingplace,  and  told  us  how  to  pass 
over.  Our  sergeant  was,  however,  well  acquainted  with  the 
ford,  and  we  parted  with  this  generously-disposed  Colom- 


220  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

bian,  who  knew  no  more  about  us  than  that  we  appeared  to 
be  strangers. 

The  breadth  of  the  bed  of  the  Coxcde,  at  this  place,  is 
nearly  a  mile  across — perhaps  the  day's  ride  augmented  the 
space, — and  presents  a  mass  of  rounded  stones,  none  very 
small,  and  some  of  considerable  size  ;  the  water,  at  this  sea- 
son, was  low,  and  was  divided  into  several  narrow  currents. 
The  sergeant,  as  usual,  led  the  van,  and  though  the  streams 
were  sometimes  strong  and  washed  our  stirrups;  but,  having 
gained  the  left  bank,  we  had  now  to  ascend  a  steep  slope, 
which  had  been  cut  since  the  earthquake,  and  which  we  all 
agreed  could  not  be  less  than  half  a  mile  up  to  the  plateau. 
There  New  Barquisimeto  stood  at  some  distance  on  our  right, 
and  while  we  made  our  way  to  the  main  street,  the  sergeant 
galloped  oft'  in  search  of  the  alcalde,  and  quarters.  He 
found  the  alcalde's  house,  who  was  out  on  church  affairs ; 
we  had  therefore  to  wait ;  and  we  did  wait  for  about  two  hours, 
seated  on  our  mules,  and  cracking  jokes  at  each  other  and  at 
the  ideas  entertained  by  the  crowd  which  gradually  collected 
round  us.  It  was  the  second  occasion,  on  which  civility  and 
hospitality,  every  where  else  so  voluntary  and  kind,  was  want- 
ing ;  it  was  literally  wanting ;  for  our  march  had  been  rapid 
for  three  days  past,  and  the  inconvenience  to  which  I  was 
subjected  by  the  fall  at  Valencia,  rendered  any  other  than  a 
sitting  position  desirable  ;  nor  were  my  young  companions 
indifferent  to  rest,  though  they  made  a  joke  of  their  enter- 
tainment at  Barquisimeto.  We  enquired  for  a  posada,  there 
was  none ;  we  enquired  for  the  military  commandant,  he 
was  out  of  town ;  so  we  made  merry  with  the  prospect  of 
lying  in  the  street. 

Were  it  not  fit,  that  incidents  such  as  occurred  here, 
should  not  be  unknown  to  others  who  may  travel  in  the  same 
track,  I  should  pass  over  the  folly  and  disregard  of  the  char- 
acter of  his  country,  and  even  his  town,  exhibited  by  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  221 

alcalde  of  Barquisimeto.  Our  sergeant  followed  this  pf- 
ous  magistrate  to  church,  and  made  such  intimations  as  he 
supposed  likely  to  prevail ;  but  his  answer  was  "  they  must 
w.ait."  We  had  no  alternative  but  to  wait;  as  la  paciencia 
vince  todo,  or,  as  Sancho  Panza  has  it,  patience  is  a  plas- 
ter for  all  sores,  we  had  to  try  the  panacea,  much  to  the 
amusement  of  some  ladies,  within  some  adjacent  iron  bars, 
who,  as  we  did  not  distinctly  see  them,  I  set  down  as  nei- 
ther so  beautiful,  nor  so  well  dressed,  nor  with  such  pretty 
satin  shoes,  nor,  above  all,  such  neat  silk  stockings  as  those 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river;  and  in  the  ill-natured  mood  of 
the  moment,  I  insisted  they  were  jealous  of  the  roses  on 
Elizabeth's  cheeks,  which  the  removal  of  her  chip  hat  and 
the  dust  seemed  to  have  exposed  merely  to  vex  them.  Af- 
ter all,  it  was  more  ridiculous  to  be  vext,  than  for  those  stran- 
gers to  gape  at  strangers,  especially  a  female,  of  a  distant  coun- 
try ;  who  was,  in  fact,  at  the  same  moment  making  fun  of 
these  curious  incognitas,  with  her  no  less  funny  brother. 

The  piety  of  the  alcalde  was  not  yet  exhausted,  though 
our  philosophy  had  almost  run  out,  for  the  grey  light  was 
not  very  distant ;  good  magistrates  compensate  for  many 
things  by  being  pious ;  like  charity,  it  covers  a  multitude  of 
sins;  it  was  therefore  not  wonderful  that  he  would  not 
be  disturbed  at  his  oraciones,  though  the  business  of  his 
magistracy  stood  still — In  the  midst  of  our  exemplary  pa- 
tience, a  gentleman  in  military  uniform  was  passing  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  street,  he  crossed  and  accosted  us  in 
English,  enquiring  if  he  could  serve  us  ;  his  uniform  led  me 
away  from  my  point,  but  I  enquired  if  he  knew  Dr.  Mul- 
lery — "  I  am  that  person,"  said  he,  "  and  you  must  be  Colo- 
nel Duane."  We  were  in  an  instant  acquaintance,  though 
they  were  the  first  syllables  we  had  ever  exchanged — he 
moved  on  with  "  follow  me."  The  sergeant,  who  had  just 
returned  from  the  third  or  fourth  siege  of  the  alcalde,  took 
the  word  from  the  doctor  as  quickly  as  if  he  was  going  to 


222  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Storm  a  breach  ;  and  was  at  the  heels  of  the  doctor  in  a  mo- 
ment ;  we  followed  down  the  street,  and  a  pair  of  folding 
gates  flew  open,  and  presented  a  spacious  patio^  into  which 
we  all  followed,  and  leaving  the  charge  of  the  mules  to  the 
servants,  and  our  shooting  utensils  to  the  care  of  the  ser- 
geant, the  doctor  conducted  us  into  a  spacious  chamber, 
where  a  long  table  covered  with  green  cloth  stood,  and  a  young 
officer  busy  in  writing.  The  young  gentleman  had  but  a 
word  from  the  doctor,  when  the  room  was  cleared,  and  two 
sleeping  apartments  adjoining,  shewn  to  us,  and  our  ham- 
mocks were  immediately  hung  up  ;  while  Pedro  had  already 
found  his  way  to  the  fire-place,  and  in  a  few  moments  fur- 
nished us  with  a  welcome  cup  of  chocolate. 

This  house  belonged  to  the  government,  and  was  the 
head  quarters  of  the  staflf,  and  the  commandant  Colonel 
Manrique  then  absent  was  daily  expected  home.  It  was  in 
the  same  quarters  Colonel  Todd  lodged  when  he  was  on 
his  route  to  Bogota  ;  and  we  found  letters  here  from  his  se- 
cretary, Mr.  R.  Adams. 

The  doctor  left  us,  with  directions  to  the  sergeant  to  call 
on  him  for  whatever  we  wanted  ;  who  took  the  opportu- 
nity to  shew  his  ribbon,  and  then  to  remind  the  doctor  that 
they  had  been  on  service  together ;  that  he  was  Sergeant 
Marcus  Proctor y  oflos  Grenaderos  de  las  Gardas  Colombia- 
nos — attached  as  orderly  to  Colonel  D,  of  America  del  Norte^ 
by  the  commandant  of  Valencia^  Coronel  delos  Grenaderos. 

In  half  an  hour  every  thing  was  in  order,  and  we  soon  sat 
down  to  an  excellent  fricasee  and  some  good  bread,  and 
fruit  from  the  other  side  of  the  river,  ordered  by  Seiior 
Lara,  a  resident  of  the  opposite  village,  who  very  soon  after 
entered,  and  I  recognized  in  him  the  civil  gentleman  who 
wished  us  to  remain  at  his  house.  He  apologised  for  intru- 
ding, but  having  heard  of  Colonel  D.  before,  and  one  of 
our  servants,  who  had  stopt  in  the  village,  having  told  him 
whom  we  were,  he  had  ordered  a  little  fruit,  and  determined 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  223 

to  make  himself  known,  as  he  had  for  many  years  been  ac- 
quainted with  the  history  of  the  person  he  came  to  see.  Mr. 
Lara  was  by  birth  a  Spaniard,  but  a  man  of  education  and 
liberal  principles,  and  had  distinguished  himself  in  the  cause 
of  Colombia.  I  had  no  expectation  to  find  any  one  in  a  po- 
sition so  much  secluded  from  the  ocean,  who  knew  any  thing 
of  me,  and  was  truly  surprized  to  find  him  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  my  former  political  and  military  concerns,  and 
had  been  for  many  years.  His  intercourse  was  constant  while  I 
remained,  which  I  was  compelled  to  do,  and  fortunate  to  find 
a  skilful  and  friendly  physician,  under  whose  care  I  was  com- 
pletely restored. 

The  alcalde  at  last  finished  his  business  in  the  concerns 
of  another  world ;  yet  the  dignity  of  the  magistrate  was 
offended  by  our  accepting  any  quarters  but  through  him, 
and  signified  that  we  must  remove  instantly.  As  the  man 
was  either  a  fool  or  a  knave,  I  determined  to  play  the  old 
soldier  with  him,  and  pleaded,  what  was  really  true,  that  I 
should  not  be  able  to  leave  my  hammock  for  three  or  four 
days,  which  threw  him  into  a  rage.  It  would  have  been  an 
unequal  contest.  My  fluency  in  his  language  was  not  such 
as  to  authorize  a  war  of  words,  I  therefore  simply  signified 
I  was  not  able  if  I  were  willing  to  move,  and  that  there  I 
should  remain  till  Colonel  Manrique  returned.  Seiior  La- 
ra had  sought  to  restrain  him,  without  consulting  me,  and 
though  he  was  quieted  he  was  not  satisfied.  My  indisposi- 
tion really  required  the  immediate  care  of  Dr.  Mullery,  who 
I  felt  satisfied  would  not  have  placed  me  where  I  was  with- 
out a  perfect  confidence  in  the  commandant.  In  a  few  days 
I  became  so  far  recovered  as  to  go  abroad,  and  we  fixed  upon 
the  11th  for  our  departure.  We  had,  during  this  time,  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  and  hearing  all  that  concerned  Barqui- 
simeto.  On  entering  the  town  the  streets  were  actively 
occupied  by  muleteers  and  mules,  and  a  multitude  of  ill- 
clad  boys.     The  streets  were  about  twenty  feet  broad,  well 


Sa*  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

paved,  and  although  this  place  had  been  founded  and  built 
since  the  earthquake  ol  1812,  it  had  already  the  appearance 
of  an  old  tovv  n.     The  plateau  upon  which  the  town  stands, 
seen  from  the  river,  presents  a  steep  perpendicular  bank  to 
the  river,  while  on  the  right  side  the  descent  to  the  river  is 
a  gentle  slope.     The  surlacc  of  the  earth  after  ascending  the 
platform  was  without  grass,  some  coarse  wild  plants  formed 
some  tufts,    and  solitary  thistles  were  dispersed   here   and 
there,  exhibiting    the    only  verdure  ;    looking  to  the  west 
and  south  and  south-west,  the  absence  of  verdure,  and  the 
presence  of  a  discoloured  grey  sooty  surface,  prevailed  all 
round,  only  where  the  shadows  of  objects  here  and  there  ris- 
ing abrupt,  served   to   make   the   spectacle  more  desolate, 
but  seemed  still   more  desolate  when  the  eye  was  turned 
to  the  eastward,  where   perpetual   verdure  and  luxuriance 
:gratified  the  eye.     On  our  left,  as  we  entered  the  town,  in  a 
line  oblique  to  the  verge  of  the  plateau,  the  sergeant  pointed 
our  attention  to  the  sciteof  the  city,  which  suffered  total  de- 
struction in  1812.     Nothing  of  walls  or  any  object  more  ele- 
vated than  mounds  of  earth  formed  by  the  ruins  of  the  pita^ 
of  which  the  whole  place  was  built,  now  remained  ;  and  these 
were  only  real  graves  which  had  sloped  into  their  then  shape, 
from  the  irregular  masses  of  the  buildings  overthrown,  and 
in  which  the  inhabitants,  as  well  as  a  battalion  of  nearly  se- 
ven hundred  men,  were  entombed.     The  only  alteration  in 
this  heap  of  ruins,  were  some  attempts  made  to  penetrate  the 
tombs  where  persons  resided  who  had  the  reputation  of 
riches ;  the  summits  of  those  heaps  rounded  by  rain,  or  their 
intervals  filled  up,  are  all  that  remains  of  the  city,  which  was 
said  to  contain  eight  thousand  inhabitants.     Those  alone  es- 
caped who  were  engaged  abroad  on  business,  or  at  the  plan- 
tations in  the  valley ;  for  at  Barquisimeto,  or  on  the  plain 
thence  to  Quibor,  near  Tucuyo,  the  cactus,  of  perhaps  twenty 
species,    constitutes  the  only   vegetation.     The   ruins  arc 
about  two  miles  west  of  south  from  the  new  town.     The 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S25 

mountains  to  the  north-west  and  west,  at  the  first  glimpse, 
had  the  apix-arance  of  chalk,  and  produced  the  first  idea  of 
snow ;  but,  on  closer  looking,  they  were  too  dull  and  mot- 
tled, and  in  fact  chalk  or  natural  lime.  About  three  miles 
north  of  the  town,  near  the  margin  of  the  plane,  is  the  town 
of  Santa  Rosa,  which  I  did  not  visit ;  it  was,  after  the  earth- 
quake, and  at  this  time,  a  military  depot  and  magazine. 
Seen  at  a  distance,  its  appearance  was  handsome,  and  per- 
haps owed  an  air  of  cleanliness  to  a  free  use  of  the  material 
so  abundant  in  the  adjacent  mountains.  It  has  a  monastery, 
of  which  I  heard  no  good,  and  made  no  further  enquiries, 
as  what  1  heard,  from  authority  above  misrepresentation, 
would  not  bear  painting. 

The  valley  on  the  east  side  of  the  Coxede  (here  called 
Santa  Rosa)  is  uncommonly  rich  in  plantations  of  sugar, 
cacao,  coffee,  and  other  productions. 

The  cacao  of  Barquisimeto  is  reputed  to  be  equal  to  any 
that  the  country  produces,  and  by  some  to  be  superior  in 
richness  and  flavour  to  all  others  ;  though  not  having  a  di- 
rect access  to  a  port,  from  which  the  valley  is  bounded  by 
that  loity  cordillier,  which  separates  it  from  that  of  Mara-  * 
caibo,  and  the  arid  plains  of  Coro,  the  product  of  Barqui- 
simeto reaches  a  market  under  some  other  name.  San  Fe- 
lipe and  Puerto  Cabello  formerly  carried  off  much  of  it,  and 
the  little  ports  on  the  gulph  of  Triste.  The  passage  of  the 
paramos  made  the  transport  too  expensive,  and  the  war  had 
given  the  activity  of  the  valley,  on  the  west  side,  another 
direction ;  peace  restored,  this  valley  will  not  be  behind  any 
in  production  or  enterprise ;  and,  under  all  the  evils  of  war, 
these  happy  people  appear  to  have  surmounted  the  general 
distress  with  more  effect  than  any  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing.  The  very  great  ignorance  which  still  prevails  in 
other  countries  concerning  Colombia  is  more  particularly 
applicable  to  this  part  of  it ;  and  it  is  the  more  remarkable, 
because  its  manners  and  industry  are  said  to  have  received 

29 


336  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

an  advantageous  improvement  from  a  number  of  foreigners.;' 
who  some  years  ago  were  cast  there  by  accident,  and  prefer- 
ing  it  for  its  seclusion  from  the  sea-coast,  fixed  their  resi- 
dence there,  and  bringing  with  them  experience,  and  pro- 
ducing emulation  by  their  successful  example,  have  en- 
riched their  posterity,  and  given  them  the  character  and  the 
esteem  which  they  merit. 

On  the  night  of  the  8th  the  commandant  arrived.  He 
had  not  been  apprised  of  the  occupation  of  his  quarters,  and 
it  being  late,  he  did  not  disturb  us.  The  alcalde,  however, 
waited  on  him  early  in  the  morning,  and  made  a  doleful  re- 
port on  our  occupation  of  the  quarters  without  the  alcalde's 
authority  ;  and,  as  it  appeared,  did  not  hesitate  to  embellish 
his  representation  with  some  fiction,  mingled  with  asperity, 
against  those  insolent  Inglesias  ! 

In  the  mood  produced  by  this  complaint,  the  colonel  found 
Dr.  MuUery,  lieutenant  Bache,  Elizabeth,  and  myself,  at 
our  morning  chocolate.  The  doctor  soon  perceived  that  the 
commandant  was  disturbed  by  something,  guessed  that  the 
alcalde  must  have  been  raising  a  storm  in  his  own  puddle, 
and  at  once  introduced  us  severally  to  him  ;  after  a  few  ex- 
pressions of  civility,  he  asked  my  name  again,  as  if  to  be  as- 
sured, and,  on  my  stating  it,  was  somewhat  surprised  by 
his  asking,  **  Arc  you  Colonel  Duane  to  whom  Congress 
voted  thanks  at  Cucuta,  in  1821  ?"  I  replied  in  the  affirma- 
tive. He  said  the  alcalde  had  been  making  an  unnecessary 
disquietude;  hoped  we  would  think  nothing  of  it,  and 
begged  we  would  make  ourselves  at  ease,  and  we  should 
have  whatever  we  wished  and  the  place  afforded ;  and  inti- 
mated that  he  would  wait  on  us  the  next  day.  He  came 
however  in  the  evening,  and  I  was  fully  compensated  for 
the  alcalde's  authorative  incivilities,  by  the  pleasure  of  this 
amiable  soldier's  acquaintance.  I  found  him  frank  and 
communicative,  particu)  Hy  on  ancient  and  modern  history, 
and  military  affairs,  the  rt.olutions  of  the  age,  and  the  su- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  22T 

periority  of  the  representative  form  of  government ;  and, 
though  he  was  devoted  to  the  existing  constitution,  and  con- 
sidered it  as  best  adapted  to  the  circumstances  of  the  country 
during  the  war,  he  preferred,  as  he  said  Bolivar  himself  pre- 
ferred, the  federal  form  for  a  period  of  peace,  and  offered  some 
ideas  which  were  bold  as  they  were  novel  to  me,  but  irresis- 
tibly true.  He  said  he  owed  me  some  thanks,  as  well  for 
my  friendliness  to  Colombia  as  a  politician,  but  as  a  military 
man,  and  was  in  possession  of  several  of  my  military  publi- 
cations ;  and  referred  to  a  memoir  which  I  had  written,  (and 
which  was  translated  into  Spanish  by  my  friend  M.  Torres,) 
and  circulated  through  Colombia ;  he  was  the  only  person 
whom  I  had  an  opportunity  of  knowing,  who  had  that  me- 
moir, and  which  I  was  solicitous  to  obtain,  as  I  had  not  re- 
served one.  We  spent  some  hours  on  the  9th  together,  and 
were  to  have  corresponded — fate  has  denied  me  that  satisfac- 
tion. I  intimated  to  him,  that  being  now  perfectly  restored 
by  the  skill  and  kindness  of  Dr.  Mullery,  I  should  depart 
the  next  morning  (10th),  instead  of  the  11th  before  proposed. 
His  character  appeared  in  a  new  and  endearing  light ;  he  ex- 
pressed an  apprehension  that  the  improper  behaviour  of  the 
alcaldi  had  induced  this  intention,  and  entreated  me  not  to 
attribute  that  conduct  to  any  other  cause  than  his  egotism. 
I  satisfied  him  that  his  own  conduct  and  esteem  had  erased 
every  kind  of  dissatisfaction ;  and  before  we  parted  he  sat 
dow^n  and  wrote  a  letter  to  the  commanding  officer  at  Tucuyo, 
our  next  halting-place,  and  Dr.  Mullery  wrote  another  to  Dr. 
Leonardo,  a  gentleman  who  had  studied  medicine,  and  visited 
the  hospitals  and  lectures  at  Paris,  London,  and  Edinburgh. 
These  letters  were  very  useful  to  us  subsequently. 

Colonel  Manrique  was  considered  as  among  the  most  ac- 
complished officers  in  the  Colombian  army,  he  was  under 
thirty  at  that  time.  Maracaibo,  having  been  surprised  by 
Morales  and  a  superior  force,  it  was  the  fortune  of  Colonel 
Manrique  to  be  placed  in  command,  and  to  expel  the  Span- 


2S8  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

iards,  for  which  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  General  of 
Brigade,  which  many  said  he  should  have  had  before ;  soon 
aft<  r  I  parted  from  him,  the  severity  of  the  duties,  and  the 
exposure  which  was  unavoidable,  broke  down  his  fine  per- 
son and  constitution,  and  Colombia  was  soon  after  deprived 
of  one  of  Us  best  heads  and  liberal  hearts. 

The  attentions  we  had  experienced  from  Dr.  Mullery, 
above  all  others,  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Lara,  who  daily  sup- 
plied us  with  ananas  and  bananas,  narangas  and  nisperos ; 
and  the  civilities  of  the  worthy  commandant,  made  Barquisi- 
meto,  which  was  far  from  interesting  in  itself,  very  agreeable. 
Our  amiable  friend.  Dr.  French  MuUery,  the  companion 
and  countryman  of  Dr.  W.  Murphy,  whom  we  knew  at 
Valencia,  had  been  also  his  fellow- student.  His  talents  had 
obtained  him  general  esteem,  and  his  professional  skill  caused 
him  to  be  appointed  to  the  army  which  passed  the  isthmus 
of  Panama  to  Peru.  His  professional  duties,  which  rescued 
hundreds  from  the  grave,  exposed  him  in  passing  up  the 
Chagres,  and  deprived  Colombia  of  a  man  of  rare  merit, 
and  his  friends  of  one  who  was  always  sure  of  esteem  where 
known. 

On  the  5th  of  December,  at  twenty-five  minutes  before 
four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  we  felt  a  very  sharp  shock  of  an  earth- 
quake ;  I  had  reclined  on  my  hammock  with  a  book,  and 
Elizabeth  was  also  reading.  The  sensation  was  felt  by  me, 
as  if  a  person  had  passed  beneath  my  hammock  and  given 
it  two  rapid  shakes.  Lieutenant  Bache,  who  was  in  the  cor- 
ridor, felt  it  at  the  same  instant,  but  it  could  not  have  occu- 
pied four  seconds,  and  nothing  further  occurred. 

On  Tuesday,  the  10th  of  December,  we  left  Barquisime- 
to,  and  entered  upon  its  arid  and  inhospitable  plain  :  our 
first  course  was  ascending  and  through  a  village,  such  as 
John  Bunyan  might  imagine  for  the  residence  of  despair 
and  desolation,  and  from  thence  our  route  was  due  west.  No 
words  can  convey  a  distinct  and  expressive  picture  of  this 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S2D 

plain,  or  the  vegetation  that  covers  it,  or  of  the  mountains 
which  are  first  seen  in  the  north-west,  composed,  apparent- 
ly, of  chalk,  with  here  and  there  some  tufts  or  creeping  rib- 
bonds  of  the  thorny  cactus ;  there  were  some  patches  which 
seemed  to  afford  grass,  but  it  had  the  hue  of  the  chalk  it 
barely  grew  upon ;  vast  ravines  cut  the  sloping  sides  of 
these  mounds  of  chalk,  and  presenting  on  one  side  the 
brightness  of  the  sun's  rays,  and  on  the  other  the  shadow  of 
the  impending  bank,  formed  the  only  exceptions  to  its 
wretched  monotony.  Our  route  lay  about  fifteen  miles  from 
these  mountains,  but  narrowing  to  a  valley,  of  which  the 
south-east  side  at  first  thinly  clad  with  forest,  as  we  proceed- 
ed became  as  chalky  on  the  left  as  on  the  right  side,  till  the 
plain  below  became  narrowed  to  about  six  or  seven  miles. 
The  whole  surface,  on  each  side  of  our  path,  was  a  dense 
thicket  of  cactus,  impenetrable  to  man  or  beast.  Even  the 
ground  on  which  our  mules  trod  was  overgrown  with  a  dwarf 
species,  I  believe  the  creeping  cents ;  to  fall  upon  which 
would  be  as  injurious  as  to  fall  upon  a  flax-dresser's  combe 
The  cactus  of  three  or  four  species  are  abundant  on  the  Sier- 
ra in  front  of  the  sea  at  Laguayra,  and  in  other  places  where 
the  soil  will  produce  nothing  else ;  but  on  this  plain  I  per- 
ceived varieties  with  which  I  had  no  previous  acquaintance. 
Humboldt,  I  believe  it  is,  who  likens  a  species  of  cactus  to  a 
large  candelabra  ;  there  is  some,  but  it  is  an  imperfect  simili- 
tude :  this  species  is  a  tree  with  a  stem  or  stock  of  twelve  to 
twenty  inches  diameter ;  about  four  or  five  feet  from  the 
ground,  it  throws  out  lobes  covered  with  stars  of  five  points, 
in  the  centre  of  which  a  long  thorn  projects  to  some  part  of  the 
edge  of  the  first,  another  and  another  lobe  grows  in  capricious 
flatted  figures,  so  as  to  present  no  leaf  nor  limbs,  but  such 
thorny  cakes  of  vegetable  substance,  as  compose  the  co- 
chineal cactus,  opuntia,  or  prickly  pear ;  these  strange-look- 
ing limbs  protrude  from  the  stem  to  the  height  of  ten  to 
twenty  feet,  and,  from  the  absence  of  foliage,  seem  to  be  the 


230  VISIT  TO  COLOMHIA. 

remains  of  trees  that  had  undergone  the  scorching  of  fire. 
Others  of  this  thorny  tribe,  spread  in  long  ribbons  of  about 
two  inches  wide  and  half  an  inch  thick,  covered  with  the 
like  five-pointed  stars  and  thorns.  I  have  estimated  some 
which  1  have  fixed  my  eye  upon  and  followed  above  sixty 
yards,  and  then  without  seeing  whence  it  sprung  or  termi- 
nated. The  common  grovelling  cactus,  or  opuntia^  was 
abundant  along  the  skirt  of  the  thicket,  which  appears  to 
have  been  a  road  cut  across  this  miserable  plain,  that  w^ould 
have  spared  the  poets  the  exercise  of  invention,  in  describing 
the  borders  of  hell  and  the  valley  of  sin  or  death — by  the  fit- 
ness of  its  lonely  desolation. 

As  when  heaven's  fire. 
Hath  scath'd  the  forest  oaks,  or  mountain  pines. 
With  singed  top,  their  stately  growth,  though  bare. 
Stands  on  the  blasted  heath  .... 
....  The  causeway  to  hell-gates, 
On  either  side,  disparted  chaos. 

The  heat  was  ardent,  as  we  ambled  through  this  lane  of 
dreary  uniformity,  where  man,  nor  beast,  nor  bird,  nor  brook 
to  assuage  thirst  was  seen.  The  soil,  stript  by  the  feet  of  the 
mules,  appears  like  a  compound  of  grey  ashes  and  chalk ; 
and  where,  after  we  had  somewhat  farther  advanced,  some 
patches  of  the  soil  were  bare,  the  earth  had  sunk  some  ten 
or  twelve  feet  in  a  compact  mass,  its  surface  whole,  and 
the  steep  edge  of  the  unsunk  soil  perpendicular ;  the  sur- 
face sunk,  shewing  about  three  hundred  yards  by  fifty,  be- 
low the  former  level. 

Wondering  much  to  see  human  dwellings,  after  we  had 
marched  twelve  miles  through  this  dismal  avenue,  and  our 
usual  stock  of  water  in  our  fiaggons  of  calabash,  which  we 
constantly  carried,  each  at  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  the  dust 
and  heat,  the  impression  of  such  a  desolate  place,  induced 
us  to  turn  into  Las  Horcones  (probably  from  horcone^  a 
rope  of  onions) — though  certainly  there  was  no  place  in 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  231 

sight  where  onions  could  vegetate — we  found  water  here 
as  scanty  as  with  ourselves,  and  were  very  glad  to  find  that 
there  was  some  guarapa,  fresh  fermented,  of  which  we  made 
refreshment,  and  learned  that  we  had  ten  miles  yet  to  ride 
before  we  should  meet  a  rivulet. 

We  had  derived  some  benefit  from  our  halt,  but  with 
such  a  long  march  before  us,  we  pushed  on  for  Quibor, 
which  we  reached  some  time  before  night.  The  village 
any  where  else  would  be  unsightly  ;  but  after  our  day's  ride, 
it  appeared  gay  and  comfortable.  A  fine  stream  passed 
through  the  village,  and  our  appetites  for  food,  rendered  a 
refreshment  of  tajo  or  dried  beef,  though  dressed  with  gar- 
lic, not  unpalatable ;  fatigue  had  left  us  without  curiosity  to 
see  more  of  Quibor,  than  our  line  of  march,  so  disposing  of 
our  last  bottle  of  wine,  we  retired  to  our  hammocks  before 
night,  and  before  the  sun  rose,  we  had  left  Quibor  in  our  rear. 

After  passing  Quibor  a  few  miles,  the  cactus  disappeared, 
our  route  was  an  ascent,  and  led  to  a  low  range  of  verdant 
mountain,  and  amidst  fine  hedges,  where  we  once  more 
found  birds  of  beautiful  plumage  and  song,  which  were  so 
abundant  before  we  reached  Barquisimeto,  that  they  ceased 
to  be  as  interesting ;  though  the  screams  of  the  paroquets, 
and  others  of  the  parrot  kind,  swarm  v/here  the  cacao  is  cul- 
tivated, here  they  became  more  interesting.  Here  I  saw 
the  linnet  of  Europe,  and  recognized  its  note  before  I  saw 
it.  We  were  ascending  now  through  a  shaded  lane,  cooled 
by  rills  of  pure  water,  the  appearance  of  luxuriant  grass 
covered  with  dew  drops,  very  much  resembling  parts  of  Eu- 
rope, as  well  in  the  shrubbery,  as  in  its  temperature ;  and 
the  perfume  of  the  rich  locust  blossom,  made  itself  frequent- 
ly known  to  us  unsearched  for. 

We  gained  the  summit,  and  the  rays  of  the  sun  sudden- 
ly beamed  upon  us,  like  the  trick  of  a  pantomime ;  the 
shade  had  so  abruptly  disappeared,  and  the  range  of  vision 
was  now  so  much  enlarged,  exposed  a  broad  valley,  through 


23S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

which  a  spacious  river  rolled  from  the  south-west,  whereon 
the  bright  sun  shed  so  much  light,  as  to  render  it  incon- 
venient to  dwell  upon  ;  the  vast  Cordillera  that  separates 
Merida  Valley,  was  the  boundary  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  at  about  seven  or  eight  miles  distant.  It  was  the  Tu- 
cuyo  river,  which  flowed  to  the  north,  and  at  our  feet  on  its 
cast  side  stood  the  city ;  the  plantations  of  cacao,  sugar,  and 
coffee,  spread  along  the  shores  of  the  river  in  a  northern  di- 
rection, and  the  road  was  lively,  and  visible  along  the  slope, 
by  which  we  descended  towards  Tucuyo ;  looking  to  the 
right,  or  north,  and  the  banks  on  both  sides  exhibited  fer- 
tility, luxuriance,  a  close  and  wide  spread  cultivation,  splen- 
did sugar  fields,  and  orange  flowers,  and  the  euphorbiums, 
soft  green  banana  plants,  betrayed  the  rich  harvests  of  ca- 
cao and  coffee,  which  they  were  placed  to  protect  and  shade. 
Cotton  trees  presented  their  snowball  ^owtr,  in  clumps,  rows, 
or  insulated. 

In  the  midst  of  these  contrasted  prospects,  and  inclining  a 
little  to  the  left  of  our  point  of  view,  the  opulent  and  hand- 
some city  of  Tucuyo  was  now  in  distinct  view.  The  heat 
was  here  more  than  was  agreeable,  and  about  three  miles 
from  the  town  I  hung  up  my  hammock  in  the  corridor  of  an 
industrious  hat-maker,  who  was  at  work  upon  a  hat  of  the 
cuquisias  fibre,  or  agave,  which  he  wTought  with  great  pa- 
tience, neatness,  and  constancy,  while  he  sung  a  patriotic 
canta^  in  which  the  theme  and  conclusion  of  every  stanza 
was  Bolivar  ;  it  was  this  incident  that  drew  my  attention  to 
liim,  and  perhaps  it  was  the  expression  of  my  countenance, 
between  fatigue  and  satisfaction  on  hearing  the  song  and  sub- 
ject, that  induced  him  to  lay  down  his  w^ork,  and,  with  a 
courtesy  that  would  have  merited  to  be  worth  ten  thousand 
dollars  a  year,  which  his  manner  and  hospitality  would  not 
disparage,  he  pointed  in  a  few  worda  and  gestures  to  what 
he  thought  good  for  me,  and  I  was,  in  a  few  seconds,  with 
the  sergeant's  aid,  swinging  in  my  hammock,  and  the  unaf- 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  233 

fectcd  Sombrerero  at  work  as  if  nothing  had  happened,  and 
relating  to  his  wife,  and  two  sprightly,  indeed  lovely  children, 
his  notions  of  the  Senor — that,  from  being  accompanied  by  a 
grenadier,  and  all  his  retinue  wearing  swords,  he  must  be 
some  general  officer,  and  the  young  officer  his  aid-de-camp, 
and  as  for  the  senorita,  she  appeared  una  angeia  de  la  guardia  f 
Tiie  good  dame  from  within,  who  had,  in  the  same  kind 
spirit  as  her  husband,  plucked  some  fruit  from  the  surround- 
ing trees,  advanced  as  if  approaching  to  pay  homage,  and 
with  a  smile  of  beneficence,  and  hospitable  emotions,  would 
present  to  my  daughter  a  near  turtuma  (calabash)  of  excel- 
lent lemonade,  hinting  with  her  significant  eye,  and  "  nods 
and  smsjes  to  make  an  argument,"  that  when  she  had  re- 
freshed herself  she  would  help  the  object  of  her  care. 

VVe  spent  two  hours  in  this  place,  amused  by  the  inno- 
cence of  the  children,  and  the  natural  elegance  and  content- 
ment of  mind  and  manners,  displayed  m  this  humble  cot- 
tage. They  had  procured  milk  lor  us,  eggs,  and  abundant 
fruit,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  they  would  accept  more  than 
what  we  deemed  one-third  of  the  value  of  what  we  had  from 
them :  a  thousand  dollars  would  not  purchase  half  the  delight 
and  gratification  we  derived  from  them  at  less  than  a  quar- 
ter of  a  dollar;  we  endeavoured  by  some  little  presents  of 
trinkets  with  which  I  had  provided  myself  for  such  purposes, 
to  leave  something  to  the  children  for  remembrance:  the 
worthy  Sombrerero  and  his  wife  seemed  to  think  we  should 
noi  have  parted  so  soon. 

The  heat  of  the  sun  had  abated,  and  we  travelled  slowly 
along  the  descending  road,  and  entered  by  the  main  street, 
in  whicn  stood  the  head  quarters  of  the  commandant;  the 
sergeant  handed  the  letter  of  Colonel  Miiurique ;  the  gates 
unfolded,  and  we  were  in  an  instant  in  the  patio. 

Upon  our  dismounting,  tiie  lady  of  the  commandant  came 
forward  in  deshabille;  her  appearance  was  pleasant  and  kind 
as  her  manners ;  her  person  was  uncommonly  large  and 

30 


234  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

round,  and  of  corresponding   symmetry.     I  have  seldom 
seen  a  female  of  equal  magnitude  and  rotundity,  yet  her 
feet,    which,   when   in  full    dress,  in  neat  blue   satin  slip- 
pers, relieved  by  bright  silk  stockings,  were  remarkable  for 
their   smallness,    and  disproportion    to  the  otherwise  well 
formed  and  agreeable  superstructure  ;  yet  it  was  the  dispro- 
portion of  different  habits ;  those  little  feet  were  her  orna- 
ment, and  like  all  her  countrywomen,  she  had  a  right  to  be 
proud  of  them.     A  long  couch-formed  bench,  covered  with 
a  crimson  covering,  stood  along  the  wall  of  the  saloon  into 
which  we  were  introduced.    On  our  left,  as  we  entered,  was 
the  lado  separadamente  of  the  respectable  St  nora ;  on  the 
right  was  the  camarita  assigned  for  my  accommodation,  ad- 
joining to  which  Elizabeth  and  Richard  had  their  camaritas, 
and  our  baggage  and  attendants  were  as  conveniently  placed 
as  if  we  had  predisposed  every  thing  for  our  own  convenience, 
I  felt  much  indisposed,  and  my  hammock  being,  as  usual, 
prepared  "  in  the  first  intention,"  I  retired  to  rest,  leaving  the 
young  folks  to  amuse  and  be  amused  with  the  good-natured 
Senora,  and  a  number  of  female  friends,  who  had  fled  upon 
the  wings  of  rumour  to  see  the  foreign  curiosities.     Orgeat, 
sweetmeats,  and  Muscadel  wine   were  served ;    and  while 
the  good  lady  occupied  her  guests  and  her  friends,  she  had 
undertaken  to  perform  Lad}  Bountiful  for  el  viejo  coronel — 
and  presented,  with  her  own  hands,  a  bowl  of  the  universal 
specific  of  those  regions,  an  infusion  of  sliced  bitter  orange 
in  warm  water,  with  sugar  and  some  aromatic  ;  as  it  was  not 
only  very  innocent,  but  very  much  to  my  taste,   I  was  not 
wanting  in  deference  or  belief  of  her  assurance,   that  it  was 
like  the  **  parmacity,  the  sovereignest  thing  in  the  world  for 
an  inward  bruise."     I  took  it  as  it  was  administered,  and 
the  good  lady,  with  as  much  kindness  as  if  I  had  been  her 
father,  placed  the  coverlid  over  me,  adjusting  my  hammock, 
gave  it  a  gentle  swing,  I  suppose  to  rock  me  to  sleep ;  what- 
ever was  the  intention,  the  effect  was  that  I  fell  into  a  de- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  235 

lightful  slumber,  awoke  in  a  profuse  perspiration,  and  shift- 
ing entirely,  shaving  and  washing,  before  I  was  suspected  to 
be  awake,  I  appeared  in  such  excellent  spirits,  that  the  good 
Sefiora  was  more  confirmed  in  the  efficacy  of  the  specific 
warm  infusion  of  bitter  orange ;  and  it  was  not  for  me  to 
question  conclusions,  which  were  sanctioned  by  the  change 
in  my  appearance,  after  the  fatigue,  lassitude,  and  disguise 
of  dust,  and  soiled  travelling  habits,  in  which  I  made  my 
first  appearance.  The  commandant  was  a  portly,  well-look- 
ing, but  rather  a  reserved  man,  and  seemed  to  think  his 
good  Seiiora  was  too  weighty  for  an  angel ;  but  the  good 
Seiiora  herself  was  not  only  persuaded  that  she  was  angelic, 
and  took  no  great  pains  to  conceal  her  beauties  in  all  the 
fulness  of  nature,  and  really  tastefully  arranged  ornaments. 

I  determined  to  remain  here  another  day,  as  in  the  even- 
ing I  found  a  tendency  to  fever,  indicated  by  the  state  of 
my  pulse  and  skin.  Lieutenant  Bache  had  sought  for  Dr. 
Leonardo,  to  deliver  the  letter  of  Dr.  Mullery ;  he  was  at  his 
plantation,  two  miles  distant,  and  thither  Richard  determined 
to  go  and  make  geological  and  botanical  researches  on  the 
road.  He  found  the  doctor  at  his  hacienda,  and,  after  spend- 
ing some  time  together,  and  viewing  his  collections  of  books, 
natural  curiosities,  and  some  well-conceived  original  sketches 
of  the  doctor's  own  execution,  they  walked  together  to  town, 
and  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  him  at  the  very  moment 
when  I  wished  for  advice ;  he  soon  set  me  at  ease,  and  re- 
commended a  repetition  of  the  good  Si  iiora's  specific,  which 
he  said  he  placed  no  other  confidence  in  than  as  it  promoted 
perspiration,  and  nothing  more  was  required ;  I  was  anxious 
to  proceed,  but  postponed  it  for  a  day,  and  he  recommended 
to  me  to  travel,  for  a  few  days,  in  a  reclined  posture.  In 
India  this  would  not  have  been  difficult ;  but  the  doctor  an- 
ticipated my  difficultities,  and  overcame  them,  by  stating 
that  the  commandant  would  issue  an  order  for  twelve  peons, 


236  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

and,  with  my  hammock  slung  upon  a  good  round  bamboo,  I 
might  be  carried  on  the  shoulders  ot  the  peons. 

The  commandant  seemed  pleased  to  have  an  opportunity  of 
doing  something  to  show  his  good  will,  and  he  rose  and  issued 
orders  ior  the  required  number  of  peons  to  be  at  his  quarters 
at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning.  An  excellent  dinner  of 
poultr},  game,  and  fine  sausages,  with  sallads  and  fruit,  and 
good  CaUiionia  wine,  and  bread,  as  good  as  any  of  Phila- 
delphia, was  prepared  on  this  day,  and  company  of  both 
sexes  invited  to  partake  with  us.  We  found  the  company 
agreeable,  and  desirous  to  do  every  thing  that  could  con- 
duce to  our  pleasure  and  entertainment.  With  the  usual 
chocolate,  1  retired  early  to  sleep. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Kindness  and  hospitality — departure — direction  of  the  route — intersection  of 
the  mountains — aspect — Humano  caro  Ba.ro — a  knavish  alcalde — tricks  upon 
travellers — effectively  repelled — singular  position  of  this  place — and  the  road 
from  it — dangerous  elevation  ot  a  path  or  shelf  on  the  side  of  the  deep  valley — 
a  hato — dang-erous  declivities — the  safety  of  the  mules — conduct  to  be  observ- 
ed— sloughs  and  mule — ladders — rain — oil-cloth  cloaks  excellent — nigiit  tra- 
velling and  rain — discover)'  of  quarters — military  rencontre — accommodation 
for  travellers — baggage  not  arrived — part  from  our  new  military  acquaintance 
—and  learn  the  news. 

The  orders  of  the  commandant  of  Tucuyo  were  punctu- 
ally obeyed ;  breakfast  was  prepared  early,  and  some  fine 
rolls  of  bread  were  put  up  in  the  delicate  plantain  leaf,  to 
serve  us  while  fresh  on  the  road ;  and  the  peons  having 
brought  with  them  a  suitable  bamboo^  of  about  four  inches 
diameter  and  twelve  feet  long ;  my  hammock  was  affixed 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  237 

to  the  bamboo  at  each  end,  and  placing  myself  in  it,  after 
taking  leave  of  our  hospitable  entertainers,  we  leit  Tucuyo 
about  half-past  eight,  our  party  being  now  considerably 
augmented.  This  practice,  I  find,  is  frequent ;  the  pay  of 
the  carriers  is  only  a  real  a  day,  but  I  determined  to  pay 
double.  Our  baggage  had  been  sent  on  an  hour  before  our 
dep|rture,  and  we  overtook  it  about  six  miles  beyond  Tu- 
cuyo. 

Our  route  lay  in  the  direction  up  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  about  two  miles  above  the  town,  where  we  torded: 
the  water,  though  broad,  was  not  very  deep  ;  and  its  bed 
composed  of  small  pebbles.  The  cordelier,  at  the  foot  of 
which  we  were  crossing,  was  clothed  with  stupendous  fo- 
rests, from  the  left  margin  of  the  river  to  the  summits ;  we 
entered  the  woods  immediately  upon  crossing,  and  discover- 
ed, that,  although  the  range  of  the  cordelier  from  Menda 
to  the  north  of  Tucuyo  appeared  unbroken,  it  was  here  cut 
through  to  the  very  base,  and  seemed  to  be  the  ends  or  be- 
ginnings of  several  mountains  which  rose  out  of  a  plain ; 
the  opening  led  into  a  vast  area,  in  which  the  mountains 
seemed  to  terminate,  in  order  to  unite  their  mountain  floods 
with  the  Tucuyo ;  we  passed  several  of  these  streams,  and 
followed  a  path  lying  westward,  which  led  up  the  side  of  a 
small  ridge,  and  along  this  side  to  the  south  of  west,  about 
thirty  feet  above  the  common  plain.  The  route  was  very 
much  broken ;  but  the  poor  fellows,  who  carried  me,  were 
in  perfect  good  humour  and  contentment ;  though  the  sun 
was  bright  and  its  rays  warm,  the  position  of  our  line  of 
march,  and  the  forest  trees  on  our  left,  gave  a  comfortable 
shade.  The  country  here  presented  a  mixture  of  lofty  fo- 
rests, rocky  ravines,  streams  gurgling  and  nestling  into  each 
other's  beds ;  and  banks,  a  little  elevated  at  intervening  points, 
tinted  with  flowers  amidst  carpets  of  velvet  verdure.  To  me 
the  passage  was  as  pleasant  as  could  be  desired,  as  I  had  all 
the  comfort  and  ease  of  a  couch,  and  was  exempt  from  fa- 
tigue ;  while  1  had,  without  any  personal  care  to  require 


S88  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

my  attention,  a  full  opportunity  to  view  the  landscape  which 
appeared  to  glide  by  me ;  the  capricious  forms  and  direc- 
tions of  the  mountains  and  the  valleys,  the  new  plants  and 
flowers,  and  the  innumerable  tribes  of  birds,  their  painted 
plumage,  and  their  occasional  mingled  roar  of  song :  but  I 
must  confess,  that  the  same  kind  of  feelings  which  I  expe- 
ricnctd  on  being  first  carried  in  a  palankin  on  the  shoi^ers 
of  men,  in  Hindustan,  were  revived  here.  The  palanKin  is 
a  well-balanced,  light,  and  a  manageable  carriage.  It  is  so 
contrived  as  to  divide  its  weight  upon  the  shoulders  of  four 
men,  who  can  relieve  each  other  without  altering  the  celerity 
of  their  pace,  over  a  surface  uniformly  flat  for  many  hundred 
miles,  and  in  which  a  stone  as  large  as  a  grain  of  gunpow- 
der is  never  found.  The  case  here  was  in  every  respect  more 
laborious  to  the  bearers — there  was  no  made  road,  two  men 
could  not  travel  abreast  upon  the  track,  and  the  whole  sur- 
face was  composed  of  angular  rocks,  of  fragments  of  angular 
stone,  without  even  a  rounded  pebble  in  the  brook  beneath. 
The  burden  too  was  more  cumbrous,  because  the  hammock 
being  suspended  at  length,  hung  so  low  that  in  some  passages 
there  was  a  contact  with  the  projecting  rocks  beneath.  Under 
these  considerations,  whenever  a  favourable  shade  presented 
itself,  we  halted,  and  if  the  brook  was  near,  we  had  some  re- 
freshment. At  length,  we  descended,  forded  a  large  stream, 
and  crossed  the  broad  and  broken  valley  ;  ascending  the  side 
of  a  long  sloping  bank,  widening  to  a  plain  covered  with 
a  verdant  sod,  until  we  reached  the  village  of  Humano 
caro  Baxo  about  three  o'clock,  having  travelled  more  than 
twenty- seven  miles. 

The  alcalde  of  this  place  reported  himself  absent ;  but  the 
sergeant,  who  had  several  times  marched  this  route,  knew  him, 
found  him,  and  told  him  he  knew  him.  Having  been  ra- 
ther rested  than  fatigued  by  the  journey  of  the  day,  I 
sought  for  some  of  the  usual  beverage  of  the  country  for  the 
peons,  and  they  all  had  as  much  as  they  wished  for  ^  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  239 

baggage  being  placed  in  a  convenient  spot,  the  mules  were 
alloM'ed  to  roll  and  feed  on  the  plain.  The  alcalde  would 
not  budge  for  the  sergeant,  who  desired  quarters  and  fo- 
rage for  payment.  I  waited  on  him,  and  in  the  most  re- 
spectful but  firm  manner  requested  accommodations.  The 
sullenness  and  superciliousness  of  this  man  of  brief  authori- 
ty, was  to  me  unaccountable.  I  called  the  peons  together, 
in  order  to  make  payment — the  usual  hire  of  the  country  is  a 
real — to  be  sure,  the  sum  in  our  country  is  trivial,  but  be- 
fore I  knew  what  the  fare  was,  I  made  it  known  to  them, 
that  I  should  pay  them  double  the  usual  fare.  Whether  it 
was  a  presumption  upon  this  voluntary  promise,  either  that 
I  must  be  very  silly  or  very  rich,  as  payment  of  any  kind,  in 
former  times,  was  so  rare  an  occurrence,  and  stripes  were 
oftener  given  than  reals,  it  seems  that  the  alcalde  calculated 
upon  my  weakness,  and  his  remoteness  from  responsibility  ; 
he  would  neither  give  an  answer,  nor,  as  was  his  established 
duty,  provide  accommodations,  though  many  houses  were 
tenantless,  and  at  his  command ;  the  public  law  and  custom 
requires  of  him,  if  fuel  or  food  be  required,  to  cause  it  to  be 
furnished  at  a  reasonable  price.  Night  being  close  at  hand, 
I  directed  the  sergeant  to  seek  the  best  vacant  house,  which 
he  soon  found  and  soon  occupied  it ;  as  we  carried  all  the 
furniture  we  required  about  us,  we  were  soon  fixed,  and  our 
hammocks  up  ;  we  then  called  upon  the  alcalde,  tendering 
silver  in  payment,  for  fuel,  milk,  and  eggs,  and  for  bread  if 
any  was  to  be  purchased.  The  alcalde  said  nothing,  did 
nothing,  and,  in  fact  gave  no  orders  in  our  presence — but 
as  our  guide  knew  the  man,  and  how  to  ingratiate  himself 
with  the  inhabitants,  he  soon  found  that  fuel,  eggs,  poultry, 
and  bread  were  abundant,  and  he  purchased  accordingly ; 
but  the  alcalde  had  signified  his  displeasure  to  any  one  who 
would  dare  to  sell  any.  The  sergeant,  therefore,  insisted  on 
paying  first  the  price  asked,  and  then  taking  whatever  we  requi- 
red.    We  thus  got  guarapa  for  the  peons,  bread,  cake  cho- 


240  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

colate,  some  manteca  or  oil  lor  stews — butter  we  had  not 
seen  since  we  Ittt  Susacon,  and  the  cook  was  at  length  en- 
abled to  go  to  work  ;  milk  was  obtained  by  Vincent,  at  some 
distance ;  and  the  peons  were  called  upon  to  receive  their 
pay.  They  had  some  unexplained  difference  among  them- 
selves, and  one  of  them  came  forward  to  receive  for  the 
whole.  Some  discontent  was  visible  among  the  others, 
and  I  signified,  that  1  would  pay  each  individual  into  his 
own  hand  ;  this  wms  signified  to  them  ail  by  the  sergeant ;  a 
considerable  number  exulted  in  this,  and  the  spokesman 
menaced  them  :  and  turning  to  me,  with  a  staff  in  his  hand, 
signified  that  the  alcalde  had  told  them  not  to  take  the  fare 
I  offered,  nor  less  thun  four  times  the  common  fare;  I  cal- 
led for  the  alcalde,  who  acknowledged  the  declaration  ;  I  was 
determined  to  resist  this  design  of  robbery,  countenanced 
by  a  magistrate  ;  I  prepared  myself  to  resist  the  insolence  of 
this  unworthy  man,  and  to  repel  any  outrage,  such  as  the 
menaces  of  a  part  of  the  peons  unreservedly  held  forth.  I 
accordingly  discharged  my  pistols  in  the  air,  and  reloaded 
them  with  ball  and  buck-shot  in  their  presence,  and  caused 
our  people  to  be  at  hand  armed  ;  then  calling  upon  the  al- 
calde, I  intimated  my  knowledge  of  his  character;  my  per- 
sonal acquaintance  with  the  intendant  of  the  department, 
whom  1  should  see  in  a  few  days,  and  that  1  should  make 
his  conduct  known  ;  that  I  should  now  deposit  in  his  hands, 
if  he  required  it,  the  fare  for  each  peon  ;  that  it  should  be 
double  the  ordinary  fare ;  that  it  was  his  duty  to  repress 
their  insolence  and  their  menaced  robbery  ;  and  that,  if  any  vi- 
olence should  be  attempted,  I  should  feel  myself  compelled 
to  shoot  him  as  their  abettor.  The  effect  was  electrical,  he 
now  talked  with  volubility  and  superabundant  meanness. 
The  peons  were  called,  and  paid  individually  by  me,  and  on 
returning  to  the  quarters  we  occupied,  the  alcalde  followed 
us,  with  two  dozen  of  eggs,  which  he  insisted  on  present- 
ing to  us.     I  had  so  far  recovered  my  strength,  that  I  deter- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S4l 

mined  to  move  early — we  had  an  abundant  repast,  and,  as 
usual  in  this  fine  climate,  a  balmy  repose. 

This  statement,  given  merely  to  show  the  difficulties  in 
which  a  stranger  is  placed,  when  he  comes  in  contact  with 
a  man  of  a  vicious  temper  ;  the  necessity  of  appearing  able 
and  prepared  to  repel  outrage,  how  necessary  it  is  to  pursue 
a  decisive  conduct  without  violating  decorum  in  word  or 
action.  On  more  occasions  than  this  I  found  it  to  be  not 
only  necessary,  but  the  only  certain  mode  of  repelling  inso- 
lence and  wantonness  from  such  people. 

This  village  stands  in  a  position  peculiarly  wild  and  re- 
markable ;  in  crossing  the  valley  to  approach  it,  the  Sierra 
appeared  within  a  few  yards  of  it,  but  as  we  neared  the 
town,  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  rock,  lofty,  naked,  and 
unbroken,  seemed  so  close  as  to  be  within  stone-throw,  and 
so  elevated  as  to  appear  rather  to  incline  towards  us  than 
from  us ;  its  direction  was  north  and  south ;  we,  in  the 
course  of  the  next  day's  journey,  traversed  the  prolongation 
of  this  ridge  on  the  opposite  side  from  south  to  north,  where 
the  serrated  rocks  seen  from  Humano  caro  Baxo  now  appear- 
ed like  the  debris  of  a  vast  artificial  rampart  piled  against 
the  wall  on  the  exterior  or  east  side. 

On  Saturday  the  14th  December,  at  six  o'clock,  and  re- 
descending  to  the  valley  by  which  we  had  entered,  we  took 
a  southern  direction  for  about  two  miles,  where  this  vast 
wall  was  cut  across  by  a  valley  running  from  east  to  west, 
and  between  the  interval  of  which  it  formed  one  side.  Be- 
low the  winding  ridges  on  the  opposite  range,  several  streams 
flowed  into  a  common  channel,  and  numerous  paths  diverged 
from  this  place  to  three  of  the  cardinal  points.  Our  path  lay 
the  nearest  to  the  ridge  of  Humano  caro  Baxo,  and  our  pas- 
sage was  to  the  north-west,  an  ascent  for  more  than  three 
miles  over  immense  rocks,  where  some  industry  had  been 
exercised  in  constructing  rude  timber  bridges,  leading  from 
rock  to  rock,  and  over  deep  fissures  which  the  mountain 

31 


242  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

flood  had  not  dug  a  passage,  our  ascent  was  tedious,  diffi. 
cult,  dangerous,  and  vexatious ;  repeated  halts  to  rest  the 
inappreciably  patient  and  persevering  mules,  enabled  us  to 
contemplate  the  enormous  masses  of  rock  which  formed 
the  slope  of  that  Sierra,  whose  south-east  side  appeared  like 
a  wall  springing  from  a  green  pasture  perpendicular  to  the 
heavens. 

We  at  length  overcame  this  rocky  ascent,  and  entered 
upon  the  side  of  a  mountain  sloping  indeed,  but  very  steep, 
and .  covered  with  beautiful  verdure.  We  passed  a  fiatOy 
where  horses  and  mules  were  bred  and  collected,  and  saw 
some  very  fine  cattle ;  but  our  ascent  became  so  steep  that 
the  march  could  be  continued  only  by  a  track,  like  a  shelf 
round  the  mountain,  some  miles  below  its  summit,  but  still 
so  high  at  the  pebbled  shelf  upon  which  we  rode  in  single 
file,  that  cattle  beneath  us  were  distinguishable  by  the  naked 
eye  only  like  little  flies  upon  a  carpet,  and  lofty  clumps  of 
forest  trees  were  diminished  into  bouquettes. 

This  was  the  worst  specimen  of  steep  and  lofty  passages, 
on  paths  not  broader  than  a  quarto  volume,  we  had  yet  met, 
and,  though  wrought  originally  by  art  into  level  planes,  now, 
by  the  attrition  and  descent  of  the  soil  from  the  inward  side, 
formed  a  very  decided  inclination  to  the  abyss.  To  ascend 
and  attempt  to  travel  such  a  path,  even  on  foot,  at  home, 
would  be  deemed  dangerously  wanton,  and  full  of  positive 
hazard  ;  the  head  is  apt  to  ring  and  the  eyes  become  dizzy 
in  looking  down  from  heights  not  a  third  of  the  elevation 
we  now  travelled  upon  without  hesitation,  though  not  with- 
out apprehension.  But,  while  examining  the  question  how 
we  should  pass  such  precipices,  we  already,  without  hesita- 
tion, or  any  effect  upon  our  heads  or  eyes,  had  advanced 
considerably ;  and  I  could  not  resolve  it  by  any  other  rea- 
soning, than  the  confidence  which  is  gradually  acquired  in 
the  safety,  firmness,  and  sagacity  of  the  mule,  which  treads 
upon  the  roughest  cliffs  with  as  much  firmness,  and  more 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  243 

prudence  than  the  goat.  The  horse  is  sometimes  trained  to 
equal  sureness  of  foot  in  the  Andes ;  but  it  is  only  where 
herding,  or  habitually  associated  with  mules,  that  this  stea- 
diness is  acquired ;  the  riding  horse  is  accustomed  not  to 
seek  or  select  its  own  path,  the  hand  of  the  rider  directs  him; 
and  the  rider  is  not  always  as  wise  as  the  mule  he  rides. 
The  mule  is  injured,  nay,  rendered  useless  by  being  constant- 
ly governed  by  the  bit ;  the  safest  course  in  riding  the  mule  is 
to  hold  a  free  or  loose  rein,  and  if  the  mule  requires  to  be  ex- 
cited, it  is  effected  by  the  spur,  and  not  by  feeling  his  mouth. 
It  is  the  rule  of  prudence  therefore  to  do  no  more  than  give 
the  direction  with  the  hand,  and  the  mule  will  not  only 
choose  the  best  but  the  safest  path.  When  we  had  gained 
a  broader  path,  and  once  more  found  forests  and  sweet 
streams  of  water,  we  resolved  to  bivouac  and  dine  ;  we  ac- 
cordingly selected  a  shady  spot,  contiguous  to  a  limpid 
mountain  stream,  hung  up  our  hammocks  in  the  shade,  and 
having  provided  some  wine,  as  we  uniformly  did  wherever 
any  was  to  be  purchased,  we  had  laid  in  at  Tucuyo  sufficient 
to  serve  to  the  close  of  this  day.  We  dined,  and  had  a  plea- 
sant nap. 

We  were  mounted  at  three  o'clock.  This  proved  to  be 
the  most  unpleasant  evening  which  we  had  yet  experienced. 
Some  rain  had  fallen  to  the  west  and  north,  and  the  road 
passing  through  deep  forests  of  lofty  trees,  the  product  of  a 
very  rich  soil  and  a  warm  temperature,  the  path  lay  over  a 
black  soapy  loam  ;  the  softness  of  the  soil,  and  the  hollovv- 
ness  of  the  path  had  produced  sloughs  and  mule-ladders ^  for 
I  know  no  other  expression  by  which  to  designate  them. 
The  mule  uniformly  steps  in  the  space  where  the  mule  pre- 
ceding him  had  left  the  trace  of  his  hoof ;  there  the  mud  ac- 
cumulates and  becomes  doughy  and  tenacious,  the  mule 
still  prefers  the  open  space,  where  a  trace  of  a  step  is  per- 
ceptible, to  attempting  a  new  step,  or  to  step  on  ground  ap- 
parently more  firm ;  thus  successive  mules  always  treading 


244  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

in  the  same  precise  spot,  the  ground  appears  like  a  ladder, 
in  which  lines  of  earth  cross  the  way,  and  rising  between 
the  spaces,  which  form  a  puddle  more  or  less  deep  and 
difficult,  as  the  weather  is  wet  or  dry.  The  ascent  through 
this  wilderness  was,  in  this  particular  way,  both  dangerous 
and  unpleasant ;  Richard  and  myself  have  been  at  different 
times  dismounted,  or  found  it  prudent  to  dismount,  as  the 
mules  often  found  it  difficult  to  extricate  their  legs  from  the 
slough,  those  cross  lines  of  earth  which  give  the  resemblance 
of  a  ladder  being  wholly  insecure,  if  by  accident  a  mule 
treads  upon  one,  the  effect  is  to  sink  deeper  in  the  intervening 
spiices. 

We  had  a  slight  shower  as  we  ascended  half  a  mile 
from  our  bivouac,  and  had  "  cloaked  aW  for  the  reception 
of  the  showers  which  the  clouds  appeared  ready  to  pour 
upon  us ;  the  slippery  soil  would  not  admit  of  moving  in 
more  than  Indian  file  ;  and  our  train  of  ten  mules  made  the 
march  slow  and  tedious.  The  baggage  mules  were  more 
feeble  than  our  own,  and,  as  we  were  eager  to  reach  our 
place  of  rest,  we  pushed  on  with  tlie  sergeant  in  advance, 
leaving  the  two  servants  and  muleteers  to  bring  up  the  bag- 
gaf/e ;  the  rain  soon  wholly  separated  us  ;  it  was  not  yet 
dark,  but  the  rain  was  in  our  faces,  though  our  oil- cloth 
cloaks  had  performed  the  service  they  were  provided  for  ad- 
mirably ;  we  had  at  length  to  descend.  Our  proposed  halt- 
ing place  was  Agua  Obispos.  We  had  passed  an  empty,  but 
spacious  bungalow,  which  had  been  a  Spanish  post  during 
the  war,  and  were  inclined  to  stop  there,  but  we  continued  our 
way,  though  the  rain  never  ceased,  and  it  was  already  night, 
with  even  more  than  the  darkness  incident  to  rain.  If  there 
had  been  a  path  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  see  it,  and 
our  sole  reliance  now  was  not  to  be  separated,  to  avoid  pre- 
cipices or  ditches  by  very  gradual  advances,  and  to  trust  to 
the  mules  for  a  path- way  guide,  and  to  the  sergeant  for 
knowledge  of  the  country.     Elizabeth's   black  mule  had 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  245 

travelled  that  route  before,  and  singularly  enough  had  pur- 
sued the  right  track,  my  mule  led  me  in  another  direction, 
which,  though  secure  from  any  precipice,  as,  upon  recon- 
noitering  the  next  morning,  I  found ;  but  to  have  pursued 
that  track,  would  have  been  to  go  largely  out  of  the  way. 
By  hailing,  and  renewing  the  engagement  not  to  separate,  I 
retraced  my  steps  and  joined  my  companions.  The  sergeant 
had  disappeared  altogether ;  and  the  baggage  and  attendants 
were  we  knew  not  how  far  behind.  The  shadow  of  a  dis- 
tant sierra,  which  seemed  to  cross  our  path  in  occasional 
gusts,  was  exposed,  and  its  outline  seen  distinctly  ;  we  found 
the  mules  had  led  us  among  rocks,  between  which  rich  her- 
bage and  some  wormwood  grew  up  and  brushed  our  legs ; 
and  we  continued  to  wind  down  through  these  rocky  and 
shelving,  but  not  very  precipitous  sides  of  the  mountain — 
when  the  welcome  shout  of  the  sergeant's  voice  advised  us 
that  he  had  found  quarters  ! 

Had  he  found  a  palace  the  information  could  not  be  more 
acceptable ;  but  what  a  house !  what  a  condition  were  we 
all  in — no  house  was  yet  visible  to  our  vision,  and,  were  it 
broad  day,  there  would  be  some  difficulty  to  find  it :  our 
eyes  had  been  affected  by  the  rain,  which  beat  upon  us  in 
front,  and  which  our  oil-cloths  could  not,  at  last,  altogether 
protect  us  against.  An  oil-cloth  capuchine,  or  capot,  which 
I  had  provided  to  be  attached  to  my  cloak,  I  had  fortunately 
placed  over  my  hat,  and  this  protected  my  neck  and  shoul- 
ders. I  found  the  sergeant  leading  my  mule  with  one  hand, 
and  Elizabeth's  with  the  other,  and  he  placed  me  by  the 
side  of  a  rock,  upon  which  my  foot  rested,  and  I  dismounted, 
more  feeble  than  I  had  suspected.  We  had  come  40  miles, 
and  had  been  under  incessant  rain  four  hours ;  I  found  it 
necessary  to  have  help  to  enter  the  hovel,  in  which  an  earth- 
en cup  of  oil,  with  a  feebly  lighted  wick  in  it,  now  enabled 
me  to  "  see  land"  for  the  first  time.  Tiie  sergeant  and 
Elizabeth,  who  were  both  as  thoroughly  drenched  as  I  was, 


246  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

attended  more  to  me  than  to  themselves :  we  entered  the 
place  intended  for  a  door,  and  found  the  whole  space  within 
apparently  occupied  by  hammocks,  over  which  hung  some 
implements  of  war,  uniform  coats,  swords,  and  leather  caps, 
indicating  the  occupants  to  be  military  men.  A  female  of 
the  house  appeared,  and  to  her  Elizabeth  recommended  her- 
self;  the  sergeant  had  only  to  place  our  mules  in  safety,  and 
our  saddles ;  our  blankets  had  been,  in  the  warm  valleys, 
imprudently  transferred  to  the  baggage,  which  did  not,  in 
fact,  arrive  until  late  in  the  next  day,  the  ariero  and  servants 
having  halted  at  the  Spanish  camp.  The  sergeant  had 
brought  my  hammock,  and,  without  ceremony,  began  to 
suspend  it  within  the  inmost  hammock,  the  incumbent  of 
which,  assuming  the  tone  of  the  parade,  in  a  bass  voice  for- 
bid the  sergeant  from  hanging  up  my  hammock  there  ; 
though  very  feeble,  the  urgency  required  exertion,  and,  as- 
suming a  corresponding  parade  tone^  I  ordered  the  sergeant 
peremptorily  to  fix  up  my  hammock  in  that  place ;  whether 
my  Spanish  was  perfectly  classical  or  not,  I  will  not  pretend 
to  say,  but  the  sergeant  replied  in  sailor's  style,  "  Aye^  aye^ 
Coronel^'*  and  in  a  few  seconds,  by  crawling  beneath  the 
suspended  cords  of  five  hammocks,  I  found  myself  in  the 
sixth  of  the  row,  with  full  room,  and  very  much  to  my  satis- 
faction— for  my  fatigue  was  excessive.  The  word  colonel 
had  the  effect  which  the  sergeant  expected,  my  suspended 
neighbour  changed  the  pitch  of  his  voice  to  that  of  com*- 
placency  and  equality,  and  addressed  himself  successively  to 
me  in  Spanish  and  French.  I  had,  in  remonstrating  against 
his  opposition  to  my  accommodation,  signified  that  the 
world  was  not  made  for  any  one  man,  and  that  the  house 
which  received  five  lodgers  in  a  dreary  night,  might  very 
well  accommodate  as  many  more  if  there  was  room.  We 
soon  became  so  well  acquainted,  that  he  deplored  my  suffer- 
ing under  such  weather,  and  calling  to  a  lieutenant,  who  was 
swinging  along  side  him,  obtained  from  his  haversack  a  bot- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  •  247 

tie  of  aguardiente — I  should  call  it  whiskey  any  where  else, 
but  if  it  had  been  champaign,  it  would  not  have  been  more 
welcome;  he  brought  a  gill  tumbler  of  clear  glass ;  mischance 
had  left  a  gap  in  one  side  of  it,  but  he  filled  it  as  full  as  it 
•would  hold,  and  presented  it  to  me,  assuring  me  it  was  equal 
to  a  blanket  in  such  a  night,  and  in  such  a  pickle  ;  it  was 
clear  as  rock  crystal,  and  the  flavour  could  not  be  disagree- 
able, as  I  drank  it  all,  and  thanked  the  giver ;  it  was  of  es- 
sential service.  Richard  had,  with  a  soldier's  discretion, 
said  nothing,  but  hung  up  his  hammock  athwart  at  one  end 
of  the  others,  and  went  sedately  to  sleep.  Elizabeth  had 
been  ushered  into  a  small  nook  about  eight  feet  by  six,  in 
which  there  were  four  other  females.  It  was  a  country  of 
canes,  and  where  the  cane  and  bamboo  grow  there  is  seldom 
any  plank  or  squared  timber.  The  only  accommodation 
Elizabeth  could  find  was  a  cold  earthen  floor,  or  literally  a 
shelf  of  canes,  which  extended  along  the  wall  on  one  side 
of  the  room,  four  feet  from  the  ground,  and  there,  after  ob- 
taining some  food,  of  which  the  sergeant  had  become  the 
unbidden  caterer,  she  went  to  sleep,  none  of  us  being  able 
to  change  our  clothes. 

I  found  by  our  conversation  that  my  friend,  along  side, 
was  a  colonel  in  command  of  a  light  corps  [cazadores) ;  that 
those  who  were  along  side  him  were  officers  of  his  regiment, 
and  he  was  not  wanting  in  confidential  discourse ;  he  enqui- 
red my  name,  the  rank  I  had  held  in  the  United  States  army, 
the  names  and  relation  of  the  young  ofllicer  and  his  sister 
who  accompanied  me, and  found  that  the  sergeant  of  Grena- 
diers, in  my  suite,  had  been  ordered  on  the  service  in  com- 
pliment to  me,  as  it  was  neither  boastful  nor  insidious,  having 
nothing  to  expect  from  him,  I  advised  him  that  I  had  the 
honour  of  receiving  the  thanks  of  Congress  at  Cucuta  ;  this 
to  my  surprise  he  had  heard  of,  and  something  of  my  his- 
tory, in  which  he  was  more  correct  than  could  have  been 
thought  possible,  if  I  had  not  witnessed  it  myself.     The 


g48  *  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Storm  grew  thicker  at  midnight,  but  what  with  fatigue  and 
the  aguardiente,  my  first  recollection  was  to  find  the  light  of 
a  clear  dawn  penetrating  the  disarrayed  wattled  partition  of 
earth  and  cane  which  had  composed  the  exterior  wall  of 
the  house,  through  which  all  the  winds  of  heaven  found  free 
access ;  but  our  hammocks  hung  above  the  wasted  aper- 
tures, and  though  the  floors  were  deluged,  we  were  dry, 
and  not  uncomfortable  under  all  circumstances. 

Our  baggage  had  not  arrived  in  the  night,  and  the  old 
colonel  was  the  first  in  motion.  His  comrades  were  speed- 
ily equipt,  and  as  our  midnight  conversation  had  made  us 
known,  we  were  novy  glad  to  see  each  other,  after  our  ac- 
quaintance. They  were  soon  mounted.  The  Colonel  sig- 
nified that  he  was  proceeding  in  advance  of  General  Ur- 
daneta  who  was  ordered  to  move  in  concert  with  the  divi- 
sions of  Paez  and  Colonel  Manrique,  the  object  contempla- 
ted to  seize  Morales  by  stratagem,  or  at  least,  expel  him 
from  the  coast,  that  his  corps  was  to  be  in  advance,  and 
procure  information ;  and  that  we  should  meet  General 
Urdaneta  on  our  route,  which  proved  correct. 


249 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Baggage  separated — native  propensities  to  dancing — leave  Oblspos — abandoned 
habitations — not  all^massacred — plunder— conscription — dexterity  of  the  mules. 
■^Carache — dreary  position. — Santa  Ana,  negociation  of  Bolivar  and  Morillo 
here — singular  apparent  causeway  on  which  it  stands. — Treading  and  winnow- 
ing grain — killing  of  calves  forbidden  by  policy  and  law  of  Colombia. — Lodge 
in  the  house  where  Bolivar  and  Morillo  iiegocldtcd  and  slept — anccdoie  of. — 
Unaccountable  influence  of  the  Spanish  agents  over  the  press. — The  pro- 
positions of  Bolivar  in  favour  of  humanity — both  armies,  unknown  to  each 
other,  in  a  desperate  situation. — Sucre's  first  public  appearance  as  a  confi- 
dential negociator — policy  of  Bolivar — recruits  and  reorganizes  his  army,  and 
with  surprising  celerity  appears  at  Carthagena,  and  prepares  for  its  fall. — Com- 
missioners to  Spain. — March — precipices — fatigue — halt  at  the  foot  of  a  steep 
descent. — Manners  of  the  peasantry — cheerfulness  universal. — Move  off  the 
road  towards  Truxillo. 

It  was  Sunday,  and  our  baggage  had  not  yet  arrived ; 
the  night,  though  in  a  northern  chmate  it  would  be  deemed 
temperate,  was  here  cool,  and  the  want  of  our  blankets  sen- 
sibly felt.  They  reached  Obispos  at  two  o'clock,  at  that 
time  the  excuses  of  the  ariero  and  Vincent  were  accepted, 
as  the  inclemency  of  the  day  and  night  taught  us  to  think 
them  reasonable ;  but  we  found  afterwards,  that  they  had 
determined,  on  setting  out,  to  stop,  though  not  to  sleep,  at 
the  Spanish  camp  ;  the  solution  of  which,  and  of  other  in- 
stances of  delay,  was  to  be  found  in  the  propensities  of  the 
ariero  and  our  domestic  Vincent  to  dancing  fandangoes.  In 
fact,  the  ariero  had  sent  on  his  servant  the  day  before  to 
that  neighbourhood,  and  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  fa- 
voured the  fandango.  The  ariero  was  a  man  of  some  pro- 
perty, about  thirty  years  old,  and  among  his  class  a  great 
coxcomb ;  our  domestic  was,  if  possible,  more  vain  of  his 
dancing  than  Vestris,  and  we  had  some  opportunities  of  wit- 
nessing his  feats  in  that  way.     The  Caracas  folks,  humble 

32 


250  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

and  elevated,  and  of  both  sexes,  are  distinguished  above  all 
others  in  the  republic  as  graceful  dancers;  it  was  therefore 
Vincent's  point  of  honour  to  demonstrate  the  super-excel- 
lence de  su  propia  pais^  or,  as  he  said  himself,  de  todos  los 
naturales  de  aquel  paisy  his  superiority  over  all  the  natives  of 
the  country. 

On  Monday,  16th  of  December,  at  seven  o'clock,  we  left 
this  miserable  cottage,  at  Agua  Obispos^  or  the  bishop's  water. 
It  may  have  been  a  village  or  town  in  former  times,  but^to 
us  it  was  invisible,  and  there  may  have  been  a  river  or  a  well 
of  water  there,  but  probably  it  was  so  named  from  the  almost 
unceasing  rain  that  prevails  there,  and  which  gives  to  the 
plain  and  mountains  that  it  sprinkles  and  surrounds,  a  rich 
pasture  ;  I  could  discover  but  two  more  dwellings,  and  of 
the  same  style  of  architecture,  in  the  place  :  our  route,  after 
crossing  the  valley,  lay  along  the  ascent,  parallel  with  its  di- 
rection, two  miles ;  there  were  some  fine  wheat,  barley, 
maize,  peas,  and  other  pulse,  in  pretty  large  patches,  and  an 
apparently  well  laboured  culture ;  there  were  numerous  cat- 
tle grazing,  which,  from  the  position  of  the  place,  must  be- 
long to  somebody,  and,  if  there  were  only  a  dozen  owners, 
they  must  be  all  rich.  There  is  a  fact  which  has  not  been 
noticed  by  any  of  those  who  have  travelled  through  Colom- 
bia, and  which  the  scantiness  of  dwellings,  and  the  richness 
of  the  husbandry  calls  to  my  recollection,  as  it  has  relation 
to  the  state  of  the  population.  We  had  several  occasions  to 
regret  the  desertion  of  towns  and  villages  on  the  road,  and,  at 
first,  concluded  that  their  population  had  been  all  destroyed  by 
the  war.  The  destruction  by  war  did  not  require  any  ex- 
aggeration, but  we  found,  upon  better  inquiry,  that  this 
solitude  was  an  abandonment  always  near  the  high  roads, 
where  cultivation  was  rich  and  abundant,  which  was  account- 
ed for  by  some  intelligent  men,  whom  we  occasionally  fell 
in  with  on  the  road,  or  where  we  chanced  to  halt.  Where 
the  country  was  not  rich  in  cultivation,  the  villages  remained 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  251 

inhabited,  but  only  by  women,  aged,  or  infant  persons.  In 
the  rich  countries  the  whole  population  moved  efi  masse,  with 
their  cattle,  to  some  of  the  remote  valleys,  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
pillage  or  the  march  of  armies  ;  and  out  of  the  reach  too  of  the 
military  conscription.  These  vacated  villages  and  houses,  add 
an  only  apparent  decay  to  the  actual  loss  by  the  war  ;  it  was 
merely  apparent,  because  the  people  had  only  moved  out  of 
the  range  of  the  troops,  as  it  was  a  frequent  complaint  when 
we  reasoned  with  persons  who  replied  to  our  inquiries  for 
provisions — "  JVo  aye  nada^''  we  have  nothing — it  was  a 
frequent  apology  that  exaction  was  as  common  with  the 
troops  of  the  republic,  as  with  the  Godas.  Our  appearance 
with  a  grenadier  in  uniform,  with  his  lance  in  front,  made 
us  look  entirely  military,  and  as  the  sergeant  was  the  usual 
forage- master  and  purveyor,  the  people  on  the  roads  treated 
us  as  they  treated  all  military  men,  who  too  often  obtained 
provisions  and  never  paid  for  them.  They  acknowledged, 
indeed,  that  all  the  Colombian  native  troops  took  was  mere 
food,  or  perhaps  guarapa  ;  but  the  Godas  not  only  took  pro- 
visions, but  any  moveable  they  cast  an  eye  upon,  often  broke 
open  the  chests.,  and  abused  the  females,  destroying  also  in 
wantonness  what  could  not  be  useful  to  them.  The  three 
houses  of  ^gua  Obispos  were  more  than  a  mile  apart,  and  in 
that  where  we  lodged,  there  were  more  than  twenty  females 
of  all  ages,  and  but  two  or  three  men  advanced  in  years. 

It  was  six  o'clock  when  we  began  to  ascend  the  Sierra,  and 
found  the  plains  and  verdant  slopes  of  the  ascent  on  both  sides 
enlivened  by  a  great  number  of  fine  horses,  horn  cattle,  and 
some  handsome  and  clean  fleeced  sheep.  As  we  could  not 
breakfast  with  satisfaction  where  we  had  slept,  we  halted  at  the 
side  of  a  beautiful  rivulet  at  eight  o'clock,  and  made  a  sub- 
stantial breakfast.  The  rain  had  ceased,  and  passed  to  the 
summits  of  a  distant  range  of  the  paramo,  where  it  seemed 
to  wait  till  we  should  move  out  of  the  way  of  shelter.  The 
'^oil  being  very  rich,  and  the  earth  soaked  by  the  last  week's 


25£  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

rain,  the  road  of  the  Sierra  became,  in  some  places,  slippery' 
and  dangerous  in  the  abrupt  descents.  When  I  had  read 
some  traveller's  account  of  the  dexterity  of  mules  in  such  si- 
tuations, I  confess  I  was  apprehensive  of  some  exaggeration, 
but  my  incredulity  was  here  perfectly  cured.  Elizabeth's 
black  mule  had  travelled  to  and  from  Bogota  before,  and  be- 
sides being  a  manageable  and  safe  animal,  and  his  load  light, 
her  vivacity  led  her  to  pass  over  such  places,  even  before  the 
sergeant,  and  it  became  to  her  a  matter  of  sport ;  in  the  de- 
scent from  the  Obispos  Sierra,  she  was  first  in  possession  of 
the  top  of  the  scarp,  and  her  mule  took  to  the  steep  in  a  very 
remarkable  manner,  crossing  its  legs  on  the  margin  of  the 
mound,  and  actually  sliding  with  his  haunches  a  little  de- 
pressed, so  that  for  fourteen  or  fifteen  yards,  she  sat  as  erect 
and  easy  as  on  the  level  road,  and  her  descent  was  perfectly 
quiet  and  secure.  The  vigour  of  my  mule  was  unsuitable  to 
this  kind  of  adventure,  and  my  weight  added  to  that  of  the 
mule,  his  hoofs  usually  stuck  in  the  soil,  and  it  was  neces- 
sary to  descend  by  traversing  the  face  of  the  steep  zig-zag. 

We  reached  Carache  after  a  not  very  pleasant  ride  over 
the  Paramo  de  las  Rosasy  about  three  o'clock,  and  were  glad 
to  find  shelter  in  the  house  of  the  alcalde,  where  we  remained 
that  night,  and  having  experienced  the  want  of  wine  or 
some  liquor  in  the  cold  and  wet  we  had  been  exposed  to, 
no  wine  being  to  be  had,  we  procured  some  very  excellent 
aguardiente^  a  fine  alcohol,  distilled  from  maize,  pure  and 
colourless  as  a  crystal  spring,  and  laid  it  by  for  future  exi- 
gency. The  village  scite  appears  to  have  been  chosen  in  a 
whim  ;  the  access  to  it,  as  we  travelled,  was  through  a  va- 
riety of  mazes,  through  hill  and  dale,  glen  and  rivulet, 
where  the  mountain  bases  approached  close,  and  their  sides 
immensely  elevated  and  steep ;  rising  a  long  winding  track, 
covered  with  deep  forests,  we  suddenly  broke  from  the  shade 
upon  the  flatted  summit  of  a  ridge,  which  seemed  to  have 
been  constructed  by  art,  across  a  valley,  and  to  have  divided 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  258 

it  into  two,  each  of  which  was  to  be  seen  distinctly,  for  many 
miles,  in  splendid  verdure ;  it  was  the  town  of  Santa  Ana, 
which  stands  upon  this  ridge,  on  the  south  end,  and  is  about 
a  mile  in  length,  the  ridge  itself  about  two  miles,  and  the  le- 
vel space  about  two  hundred  yards,  the  single  street  being 
about  fifty  feet  broad ;  the  fronts  of  the  houses  are  in  the 
same  alignment,  but  stand  apart,  and  as  the  south  end  of  the 
causeway  approaches  the  Sierra,  the  road  ascends  and  leads 
over  a  paramo  where  vegetation  is  stunted,  and  the  surface 
has  the  appearance  of  a  black  turf,  with  some  ferns,  and  two 
species  of  the  whortle-berry.  This  causeway,  for  it  conveys 
the  impression  of  an  artificial  creation,  is  the  only  thorough- 
fare, and  appears  like  the  summit  of  a  vast  bridge  thrown 
over  to  unite  two  lofty  mountains,  which,  without  this  com- 
munication at  that  place,  would  render  the  journey  difficult 
and  circuitous.  Its  inhabitants  trade  in  mules,  wheat,  maize, 
barley,  and  other  products,  and  transport  merchandize.  The 
valleys,  intersected  by  the  causeway  east  and  west,  present 
the  most  agreeable  pictures  of  a  country  well  settled  and  cul- 
tivation abundant.  It  has  a  much  better  church  than  towns 
of  more  celebrity.  It  being  the  only  highway,  exposed  it  to 
much  depredation  during  the  war,  and  its  streets  often  de- 
luged with  blood ;  many  of  its  inhabitants  had  transferred 
their  families  to  the  remote  valleys,  some  of  whom  the  al- 
calde said  were  returning.  The  winnowing  of  grain  on  the 
side  of  a  steep  acclivity,  and  the  circular  threshing  floors,  are 
seen  here  in  the  same  style  as  in  Egypt,  Hindustan,  Persia, 
and  Boutan  :  a  circle  of  stones  placed  on  the  edge,  about  three 
feet  above  the  floor,  has  in  the  centre  an  upright  post,  to 
which  is  attached  a  light  beam,  as  long  as  the  semi-dia- 
meter of  the  circle  ;  the  central  end  is  placed  by  an  eye  or 
hole  on  a  pin  or  pivot  in  the  central  post,  and  the  horses, 
mules,  or  oxen,  are  attached  to  this  light  beam,  and  the 
sheafs  of  grain  are  laid  within  the  track  of  the  circle,  around 
which  they  move,  and  thus  tread  out  the  grain ;  the  abun- 


35db  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

dance  of  grain  is  unequivocally  proved  by  the  number  of 
these  treading  floors,  and  by  the  fact,  that  such  establish- 
ments are  kept  as  a  business  like  a  grist-mill,  to  thresh  the 
grain  of  other  persons  than  the  owners.  The  cattle  were  so 
numerous  in  the  north  valley,  that  I  inquired  and  learned 
there  were  several  hatos,  where  the  rearing  of  cattle  for  sale 
was  carried  on  to  a  great  extent.  Here  I  first  learned  that  the 
Colombian  government,  finding  that  the  Spaniards  were  de- 
termined to  exterminate  the  cattle  as  well  as  the  people,  and 
produced  in  some  parts  a  scarcity,  had  by  a  public  regulation 
forbidden  the  killing  of  calves  or  cows,  so  that  veal  is  not  to 
be  seen  in  Colombia,  as  the  wisdom  of  the  measure  has  ob- 
tained the  spontaneous  applause  of  the  people.  The  alcalde 
did  not  fail  to  let  us  know  we  slept  in  the  apartment  which 
Bolivar  more  than  once  occupied,  and  mentioned  some  oc- 
currences, which  circumstances  did  not  permit  me  to 
note ;  there  were  three  rooms,  we  slept  in  the  central.  It 
was  from  this  place  that  Morillo,  in  1820,  dated  his  over- 
tures to  Bolivar  for  an  armistice  ;  and  it  was  in  this  house 
they  met  and  slept  after  the  preliminary  forms  of  negociation 
were  agreed  upon,  and  in  the  central  room  they  first  met. 
Morillo  suggested  that  they  might  occupy  the  northern  and 
southern  rooms  for  repose,  but  Bolivar  preferred  the  central 
room,  and  proposed  that  they  should  hang  both  their  ham- 
mocks in  that  room,  that  they  might  have  the  advantage  of 
conversation,  and  it  was  so  settled,  and  the  best  part  of  the 
night  was  spent  in  discourse. 

The  negociations,  and  the  armistice  that  followed,  conclu- 
ded at  Santa  Ana  and  Truxillo,  which  all  belong  to  the  same 
event,  have  never  been  truly  published  ;  the  public  journals 
of  the  United  States  at  that  period,  strange  to  relate,  were, 
with  two  or  three  exceptions,  either  generally  passive  or  un- 
accountably hostile  to  South  America  ;  this  malign  temper 
was  carried  to  such  an  extraordinary  extent,  that  the  Spanish 
agents  had  free  access  for  the  publication  of  the  most  gross 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  255 

misrepresentations,  which,  too,  had  a  material  and  disad- 
vantageous effect  on  the  rich  commerce  of  those  countries  ; 
but  the  refutations  of  those  calumnies  were  not  permitted  to 
be  published  ;  or,  if  some  one  was  found  to  publish  the  true 
state  of  things,  the  adverse  prints  maintained  a  systematic 
silence ;  unless  when  there  happened  to  be  news  hostile  to 
the  republican  cause.  Those  celebrated  negociations  incur- 
red this  exclusion  and  suppression ;  nay,  stories  wholly- 
contrary  to  the  facts  were  published,  and  refutation  not  lis- 
tened to.  Perhaps  in  the  history  of  the  world,  a  negociation 
so  singular  and  novel  in  its  character,  so  magnanimous  and 
bold,  or  more  consistent  with  humanity  and  wisdom,  cannot 
be  found.  It  had  also  features  that  seldom  appear  on  the 
theatre  of  diplomacy ;  premeditated  deceit,  personal  artifice, 
and  cunning,  unfortunately  belong  to  all  diplomatic  pro- 
ceedings, and  this  negociation  is  distinguished,  by  being 
proposed  in  deceit,  in  a  premeditated  determination  to  be 
rendered  nugatory  ;  while  en  the  other  side,  this  premedita- 
ted perfidy  was  perfectly  anticipated,  and  yet  the  negociation 
was  conducted  as  if  no  such  knowledge  was  possessed ;  but 
it  was  made  use  of  to  establish  generous  principles  of  war,  and 
to  abrogate  that  barbarous  system  of  massacre  in  cold  blood, 
which  Morilio  himself  had  practised. 

It  was  known  to  Bolivar,  that  Morilio  had  received  the 
permission  which  he  sought,  of  returning  to  Spain  upon  the 
avowed  hopelessness  of  subjugating  Colombia  ;  he  had  soli- 
cited authority  to  precede  his  departure  by  overtures,  such 
as  he  might  deem  eligible  for  an  armistice,  in  order  to  lead 
to  further  negociations,  and,  if  practicable,  a  reconciliation ; 
he  was  authorised  to  address  Bolivar  with  the  title  of  Gene- 
ral of  the  Colombian  forces,  thereby  acknowledging  the  na- 
tional title  ;  and  to  limit  the  negociation,  if  its  progress  was 
not  propitious,  to  a  period  that  should  leave  Spain  at  liberty 
to  meet  a  failure  with  reinforcements,  in  the  event  of  failure. 
The  proposition  proceeded  from  Morilio,  and  even  the  forms 


256  VISIT   TO  COLOMBIA. 

were  suggested  by  him.  Morillo  was,  in  fact,  in  a  despe- 
rate  situation  when  he  received  those  powers ;  he  must  have 
been  compelled  to  embark,  if  he  had  been  pushed  by  a  force 
of  four  thousand  men ;  and  to  retire  under  such  circum- 
stances, after  being  denominated  pacijicador^  and  after  so 
many  outrages  against  humanity,  was  to  retire  under  unmi- 
tigable  infamy.  If  he  could  negociate  even  a  truce,  it 
would  leave  him  an  opportunity  of  retiring  without  notori- 
ous shame,  and  devolve  upon  his  successor  all  the  hazard 
and  the  responsibility  which  he  wished  to  avoid.  But  what  is 
most  singular,  is,  that  neither  Morillo  nor  Bolivar  was  ac- 
quainted with  the  actual  condition  of  the  other ;  each  per- 
haps was  engrossed  by  the  feebleness  of  their  own  condition. 

The  Colombian  forces  were  reduced  to  a  very  low  state, 
and  all  resources  were  apparently  exhausted ;  the  corps, 
which  were  embodied,  were  very  short  of  their  complement, 
and  it  became  necessary  to  divide  them  into  detachments, 
and  canton  them,  in  order  to  derive  from  different  parts  of 
the  country  local  subsistence,  which  they  had  not  the  means 
to  draw  to  head- quarters ;  and  it  was  apprehended  that  the  ar- 
my would,  even  thus  dispersed,  disband  altogether.  Both 
generals,  in  their  own  conception,  were  in  a  desperate  situa- 
tion ;  and  it  is  in  this  way  we  must  account  for  the  ready 
acceptation  of  Morillo's  propositions  for  an  armistice.  Mo- 
rillo thus  assured  an  opportunity  to  disentangle  himself  from 
a  war  now  hopeless ;  Bolivar  saw  in  it  the  salvation  of  the 
republic,  of  which,  although  he  had  never  despaired,  it  had 
not  been  at  any  time,  even  after  the  evacuation  of  Carthagena, 
in  a  crisis  more  serious.  /  j 

The  plan  of  Bolivar  was  instantly  formed — circular  orders 
were  issued  lo  the  commanding  officers  of  divisions  and  sta- 
tions—and upon  their  steady  and  exact  conformity  to  their 
instructions,  the  triumph  of  their  country  depended — that 
the  plan  to  be  pursued  was  digested  with  care,  and  all  that 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  257 

remained,  was  for  each  to  act  in  his  particular  province,  as 
if  the  fate  of  every  thing  depended  upon  each  individual. 

The  details  of  the  negociation,  the  correspondence  on  both 
sides,  the  appointment  of  Commissioners  on  the  part  of 
each  chief,  to  digest  the  propositions  on  which  pacification 
in  the  most  extensive  sense  was  to  be  founded — were  all  an- 
ticipated ;  a  line  of  demarcation  was  to  be  fixed,  beyond 
which  troops,  on  either  side,  were  not  to  pass,  had  been  in 
the  first  instance  provisionally  conceded  ;  but  upon  exami- 
nation it  was  found,  that  the  proposed  line  would  put  the 
Spaniards  exclusively  in  possession  of  the  great  magazine  of 
provisions,  the  cattle  of  the  plains  ;  a  new  line  was  suggest- 
ed by  Bolivar,  and  agreed  upon  ;  and  care  was  taken,  pend- 
ing these  transactions,  to  make  known  to  the  country,  that 
the  overture  came  from  the  Spaniards,  that  it  was  opened 
even  with  a  virtual  acknowledgment  of  the  national  inde- 
pendence, and  that  nothing  seemed  now  to  be  necessary, 
but  to  present  a  numerous  army  in  powerful  attitude,  to  shew 
that,  though  desirous  of  peace,  they  were  prepared  to  assert 
independence,  by  energy  and  arms  ;  the  occasion  served  also 
^to  draw  forth  resources,  to  sustain  as  well  as  to  recruit  the 
army,  and  with  adequate  effect ;  though  a  few  weeks  before 
it  was  apprehended  that  every  resource  was  exhausted.  As 
soon  as  the  first  effects  of  this  new  impulse  were  percepti- 
ble, and  with  a  view  to  disembarass  the  proceedings  by  his 
presence,  Bolivar  devolved  upon  Colonel  Sucre  and  Colonel 
J.  Brecerio  Mendez,  the  charge  of  attending  to  the  negocia- 
tions,  and  he  signified  that,  pending  these  measures,  he 
would  retire  to  the  plains.  By  an  unprecedented  march,  af- 
ter writing  a  letter  at  St.  Christoval,  the  first  account  heard 
of  Bolivar,  was  his  appearance  in  his  friend  Montilla's  camp, 
before  Carthagena  ;  where  having  put  in  motion  the  affairs  of 
the  siege,  and,  as  if  he  had  passed  upon  wings,  he  appeared 
again,  near  the  army,  at  Truxillo. 

33 


S58  A'lSIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Morillo  could  not  believe  that  Bolivar  had  been  at  Carthage- 
na :  he  was  soon  convinced, — the  place  surrendered.  Bolivar 
had  re-organised  his  army,  and  pressed  Morillo  not  to  suffer 
the  negociation  to  be  conducted  so  tardily  ;  as  the  delay  w^as 
assuring  advantages  to  Spain,  while  it  offered  only  disadvan- 
tages to  Colombia  ;  and  he  made  a  proposition  of  a  new  cha- 
racter ;  it  was  to  fix  the  principles  upon  which  war,  if  it 
should  be  unfortunately  renewed,  might  be  in  future  con- 
ducted ;  and  he  stated  specifically  a  series  of  propositions, 
which  were  to  arrest  massacres,  assure  good  treatment  to 
prisoners,  establish  cartels  of  exchange  of  prisoners,  and  the 
abrogation  of  every  cruelty  which  called  for  retaliation  ;  as 
holding  prisoners  in  manacles,  and  putting  officers  of  high 
rank  to  servile  labours ;  every  one  of  which  inhuman  mea- 
sures had  been  practised  by  Morillo  himself.  Morillo  per- 
ceived that  propositions  of  such  a  nature  must  come  from  a 
mind  strong  and  confident ;  that  he  could  accomplish  nothing 
as  to  the  political  relations ;  and  entered  into  the  treaty  re- 
gulating the  mode  of  conducting  war  in  future. 

One  of  the  propositions  of  Morillo,  urged  by  the  negocia- 
tors,  was  that  two  commissioners  should  proceed  to  Spain 
with  the  treaties  to  be  concluded.  Bolivar  at  first  consider- 
ed this  as  only  a  stratagem  of  protraction,  and  the  termina- 
tion of  the  truce  approaching,  he  considered  it  either  a  strata- 
gem for  delay,  or  a  cloud  under  which  he  was  to  make  his 
retreat,  and  shift  the  responsibility  from  himself.  But  as 
the  merely  sending  a  mission  to  Spain  could  do  no  harm, 
and  as,  if  not  sent,  a  false  pretext  might  be  set  up,  at  their 
meeting  at  Santa  Ana  Morillo  solicited  this  mission  as  a 
favour,  and  Sefiors  Echiaverra  and  Ravenga  were  appointed, 
but  with  absolute  instructions  not  to  enter  upon  any  nego- 
ciation which  had  not  for  its  preliminary  the  recognition  of 
independence,  in  conformity  with  the  fundamental  law, 
passed  at  Angostura  in  1819. 

The  details  of  this  transaction  would  form  a  volume,  but 
the  abstract  here  given,  though  incomplete,  has  not  been  pub- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  259 

lished  before — as  the  affairs  of  South  America  have  not  yet 
obtained,  even  in  the  United  States,  the  importance  which 
belongs  to  them  intrinsically,  the  publication  of  those  tran- 
sactions at  large  will  wait  for  a  period  of  appreciation,  when 
the  affairs  of  South  America  are  more  rationally  appreciated 
than  they  yet  have  been. 

We  left  Santa  Ana  on  the  18th  of  December,  and  passed 
the  rock  which  is  celebrated  as  the  first  place  of  meeting  be- 
tween Bolivar  and  Morillo ;  it  has  nothing  besides  remark- 
able about  it,  but  the  positions  of  the  outposts.  We  tra- 
versed up  and  down  the  tremendous  and  steep  precipices 
which  made  this  day's  march  fatiguing  and  disagreeable  :  our 
mules,  for  the  first  time,  were  seriously  jaded  by  the  ine- 
qualities and  the  laborious  windings  and  descents  over  roads 
of  rubble  ;  through  deep  shelving  lanes  overhung  with  drip- 
ping shrubbery,  shut  out  from  light  and  heat,  and  producing 
chilliness.  As  soon  as  we  were  extricated  from  this  humid 
atmosphere,  the  heat  on  the  rocky  hills  became  unpleasant ; 
and  these  changes  took  place  several  times  within  three  hours. 
We  were  about  four  miles  distant  from  Truxillo  before  we 
began  the  descent  of  the  mountain,  at  the  foot  of  which  the 
road  winds  off.  A  valley,  on  our  left,  was  refreshed  by  a 
broad  rivulet,  which  trembled  like  a  silver  thread  below,  and 
seemed  almost  within  a  stone's  throw  ;  while  we  stood 
perched  above  the  precipice  in  awe  of  the  steep  and  tiresome 
zigzag  we  had  yet  to  descend  :  winding  over  slopes  of  pro- 
jecting and  crumbled  rock,  strata  of  red  clay  macerated  by 
the  action  of  the  passing  mules,  and  the  previous  day's  rain  ; 
and  over  which  the  persevering  and  patient  mule  labours 
his  way  with  a  constancy  and  security  that  is  astonishing. 
In  every  other  country  the  obstinacy  of  the  mule  is  a  sort  of 
proverb ;  but  I  saw  no  instance  of  such  a  character  in  the 
long  journey  I  performed  :  and  without  mules  it  is  not  to  be 
conceived  how  intercourse  could  be  carried  on  over  the 
frightful  and  desolate  cliffs,  ravines,  and  rivers  of  South 
America.     They  are,  in  fact,  to  these  regions,  what  the  ca- 


260  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

mels  of  northern  and  western  Asia,  and  the  steam-boats  of 
North  America  are  ;  their  companions,  the  muleteers,  are  not 
so  appreciable  ;  generally  speaking,  they  have  retained  the 
shrewdnttss  and  plausible  knavery  of  their  prototypes  in 
Spain. 

At  imminent  peril,  with  the  fracture  of  some  saddle  crup- 
pers and  girth  buckles,  we  reached  the  deepest  deep  of  the 
valley,  but  so  jaded,  that  seeing  a  few  huts  on  the  side  of  the 
ravine,  with  some  cotton  and  orange  trees,  and  cows  browz- 
ing  on  the  slopes  of  the  brook  ;  and,  finding  that  Truxillo 
was  more  than  three  miles  from  the  main  road,  I  resolved  to 
rest  an  hour  or  two  here,  and  accordingly  defiled  to  the  right 
instead  of  pursuing  the  left  road  which  lay  along  the  ascent 
of  one  of  the  rivers,  which  assemble  in  this  concentration 
and  debouch  of  a  hundred  valleys  and  ravines.     The  females 
were  occupied  in  releasing  the  cotton   from  its  pod,  and 
clearing  the   brilliant  glossy  fleece  from  its  seeds;   others 
were  twirling  the  distaff  with  the  same  grace  and  industry 
which  the  poet  has   given   as  one  of  the  finest  attributes  of 
Penelope — our   appearance  must   have   been  delightful  to 
them,  for  in  an  instant  the  varied  occupations  were  suspend- 
ed, and  all  v/ere  on  their  feet,  their  e}  es  distended  with  cu- 
riosity and  their  lips  adorned  with  smiles  of  satisfaction ;  a 
buxom  damsel,  without  affectation  or  forwardness,  stept  for- 
ward and  offered  to  aid  Elizabeth  to  dismount,  and  another 
superseded  the  sergeant  in  the  same  civility  to  me  ;  the  apart- 
ment,  which,  like  the  cobler's  stall,  served  for  "  parlour, 
kitchen,  and  all,''    was  not  very  large,  the  floor  was  earthen 
and  not  very  level,   i^ut  it  was   cleanly  swept,  and  the  walls 
were  as  white  as  if  they  had  been  cut  out  of  the  material  of 
the  ravines  of  the  Barquisimeto  mountains.     Only  one  ham- 
mock could  swing  in  this  chamber,  and  that  from  the  ex- 
treme angles.   An  hour*s  rest,  and  some  good  chocolate,  with 
milk  fresh  from  the  Govt's  which   grazed  around,  put  my 
animal  economy  in  order,  and  enabled  me  to  spend  another 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  261 

hour  in  the  open  air,  using  the  freedom  encouraged  by  the 
gay  temper  and  afFabiHty  of  the  females,  to  crack  a  few  jokes 
with  the  young  and  old,  and  to  discover  the  temperament  of 
their  political  affections.  Here,  as  in  every  other  place,  with 
a  single  exception,  the  name  of  Bolivar  had  no  rival  but  the 
Madre  de  Dios — and  the  Goths  or  Godas  were  congenially 
grouped  with  the  devil  and  his  imps. 

At  half-past  two  o'clock  we  parted  with  this  cheerful  and 
innocent  people,  and  with  many  civil  expressions — and  turn- 
ed off  from  the  main  road,  which  lay  in  a  west  direction,  to 
the  side  of  the  rapid  current  of  the  Motatan^  along  the  side  of 
which  we  travelled  up  south  amidst  plantations  of  cacao,  su- 
gar-fields, and  exuberant  vegetation.  The  side  of  the  stream 
consisted  of  irregular  heaps  of  unequal  sized  stones,  whose 
sharp  angles  had  been  barely  rubbed  off,  and  the  river  bed  of 
lesser  stones  of  the  same  recent  forms — at  four  o'clock  we  liad 
ascended  much  above  the  level  of  our  halting-place ;  the 
mountain  on  the  left  side  of  the  river,  which  had  been  con- 
cealed by  the  forests,  now  appeared  erect,  and  green,  but 
naked  of  trees  and  somewhat  broken  ;  the  mountain  on  our 
left,  on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  became  depressed,  and  de- 
scended to  a  gentle  slope,  upon  which  the  sun  cast  an  agree- 
able light ;  our  route  lay  across  this  river,  which  we  passed 
upon  a  very  rude  bridge  of  the  simplest  structure,  a  few 
trees,  their  branches  lopt,  placed  alternately  tops  and  stumps, 
a  quantity  of  brush- wood  tied  across  the  timbers,  and  earth 
and  sand  beaten  into  the  brush-wood  so  as  to  keep  them 
compact,  and  form  a  very  passable  path  on  the  surface. 

.We  reached  some  cottages,  but  the  town  was  not  yet  to  be 
seen,  for  we  were  several  feet  below  its  lowest  inclination, 
and  in  its  suburbs ;  winding  round  a  mound  and  a  ravine 
we  reached  a  sloping  passage,  paved  with  coarse  flat  stones, 
and,  led  by  the  sergeant,  who  appeared  as  if  scaling  a  rampart, 
we  followed,  and,  on  gaining  the  summit,  found  ourselves  on 


262  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

el  empcdrado  de  caUe,  or  the  pavement  of  the  main  street, 

of  this  very  celebrated,   but  much-misrepresented  city  of 
Truxillo. 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 

Truxillo  misrepresented— a  more  exact  description — polite  subaltern — good 
quarters — accommodations — style  of  domestic  economy — pretty  ancles  and 
satin  shoes — the  night-cap— Pandora's  box — love  of  being  looked  at — good  taste 
in  apparel — religious  costume — topography  of  Truxillo — the  goitre — where 
prevalent — difficult  to  move — our  ariero  useful  on  the  road — his  ideas  of  the 
Revolution — characteristics — no  mules — dispatch  the  Sergeant  to  Betijoque, 
head-quarters  General  Clemente,  the  Intendant — receive  a  most  friendly  an- 
swer— consequences — 20th  Dec.  leave  Truxillo — the  soldier's  widow  of  Gua- 
yana — follow  the  course  of  the  Motatan — Savaiia  larga — Hacienda  de  la 
Plata — Valeria — Alcalde  knavish — difficulty  to  obtain  mules — resolve  to  have 
them — Spaniards  expected  there  that  night — continue  our  march  to  the  Para- 
mo in  a  heavy  rain  at  3  o'clock — above  the  clouds,  sublime  prospect — sublime 
desolate  aspect — Valley  of  Mendoza — foot  of  the  Paramo — lodged  with  the 
Curate — hospitable — Catechism — Christmas  eve  and  night — sky-rockets — 
squibs — and  firing  all  niglit — a  native  oboe  or  musical  tube — Christmas 
day — polite  Alcalde — tlie  sun-dial. 

I  HAVE  said  in  the  last  chapter  that  Truxillo  has  been 
misrepresented.  Indeed,  I  know  no  place  that  so  little  cor- 
responds with  the  accounts  given  of  it,  in  all  the  books  that 
I  have  seen,  as  this  ancient  city.  I  suspect  it  must  be  the 
history  of  its  first  vicissitudes,  and  the  richness  of  the  circum- 
jacent country  which  have  led  to  the  general  exaggeration  con- 
cerning this  city  and  scite.  The  date  of  its  first  foundation 
by  Garcia  Paredes  is  1556,  but  the  Indians  drove  the  set- 
tlers out  in  two  years  after.  There  were  three  more  unsuc- 
cessful attempts,  but  the  fifth,  in  1570,  was  successful,  and 
it  was  finally  fixed  in  the  nook  which  it  now  occupies.  What 
is  most  remarkable  as  to  the  scite  of  this  ancient  city,  that 
it  is  more  than  three  miles  from  the  ordinary  roads,  and  ne- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S63 

ver  could  have  been  on  the  high  road.  Passing  from  the  foot 
of  the  steep  mountain  where  we  rested,  the  highway  leads  to 
the  westward  along  the  bank  of  the  Motatan,  which  issues 
from  the  south,  through  an  obscure  recess,  on  the  left  of  the 
road,  and  winds  off  to  the  westward ;  if  we  followed  the 
course  of  the  river,  which  is  the  direct  route,  we  should  have 
left  Truxillo  unseen  ;  for  to  go  thither  it  is  necessary  to  pass 
three  miles  to  the  south  along  the  Motatan,  and  it  is  not  till 
after  crossing  a  primitive  sort  of  a  bridge  or  scaffold,  and 
scrambling  beneath  some  lofty  forest  trees,  that  a  few  huts 
are  seen  upon  some  detached  knolls,  which  would  never  in- 
duce a  suspicion  that  an  ancient  city  was  so  near  at  hand. 
The  sergeant,  who  was  master  of  the  Carte  de  pais,  put  spurs 
to  his  mule,  and  dashed  into  a  ravine,  so  that  we  lost  sight 
of  him,  till  we  saw  him  cap  a  pied  mounting  a  slope  of  stone 
work,  which  resembled  the  slope  of  a  covert  way,  to  a 
rampart,  where  he  waited  for  us  ;  we  followed  of  course,  and 
trusted  to  our  mules  for  security  in  passing  over  the  slippery 
flag-stones.  As  it  was  a  warlike  time,  and  this  was  a  mili- 
tary commandancy,  the  serjeant  led  us  directly  to  the  quar- 
ters of  the  commandant,  over  a  pavement  that  was  in  the 
usual  style  of  excellence.  The  great  man  was  absent,  but 
a  polite  subaltern  volunteered,  seeing  a  lady  in  company,  and 
conducted  us  to  an  adjacent  street,  where,  opening  a  pair  of 
folding  gates,  we  rode  in,  and  he  presented  to  us  in  the  cor- 
ridor an  ample  chamber  on  the  main  street,  said,  this  house  is 
yours,  made  his  bow,  and  disappeared. 

The  house  was  a  very  good  one  as  to  space  and  style,  but 
it  was  not  as  clean  as  was  necessary  to  comfort ;  it  belonged 
to  a  widow  lady  ^vho  was  at  her  hacienda  in  the  country, 
and  it  is  the  usage  to  afford  accommodation  to  persons  of 
respectable  appearance  in  such  vacant  houses  ;  a  poor  widow 
woman,  who  had  been  accommodated  by  the  owner  in  a 
rear  apartment,  presented  herself  and  solicited  permission  to 
clean  out  the  room,  and  as  she  had  the  broom  in  hand,  and 


264  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

went  to  work  as  she  spoke,  it  was  an  act  mutually  agree- 
able. As  there  was  no  incumbrance  beside  the  bare  walls, 
every  thing  was  soon  in  order — our  mules  were  already  un- 
laden, and  feeding  upon  sugar  cane — our  baggage  trunks  so 
disposed  as  to  serve  for  chairs  and  tables ;  our  hammocks 
hung  up ;  chocolate  smoking  and  frothing  to  find  its  way 
into  three  or  four  tea-cups  of  different  ages  and  nations, 
which  Vincent  had  placed,  with  some  fine  bread,  on  one  of 
our  own  white  napkins ;  a  fricaseed  chicken,  with  some  fine 
rice,  completed  our  ample  and  delicious  repast,  which  being 
dispatched,  Elizabeth,  in  her  night-cap,  placed  herself  on 
the  vis  avis  seat  of  the  window,  with  her  work-box  and 
her  embroidery,  and  was  as  busy  and  unconcerned  as  if  she 
was  already  at  home — and  as  it  was  on  the  main-street, 
and  the  only  promenade  of  this  ancient  city,  she  could  see 
as  far  from  her  window  of  what  was  going  on  in  that  street, 
as  from  the  top  of  the  best  house  in  Truxillo.  I  believe  it 
is  as  true  of  cities  as  of  villages,  especially  when  the  city,  like 
"Truxillo,  is  not  larger,  nor  as  large  as  some  villages,  that  they 
are  as  proverbial  for  gossiping,  and  as  curious  about  novelties. 
The  arrival  of  an  elephant  or  a  whale  could  not  have  affected 
the  pretty  ladies  of  Truxillo  with  more  curiosity,  than  the 
rumour  of  a  strange  damsel,  of  fair  complexion,  and  with 
cheeks  as  roseate  as  those  of  the  Virgin  of  Chinchinquira, 
had  arrived  in  Truxillo,  and  was  actually  quartered  at  the 
■easa  of  Seiiora  Cardina,  in  the  Calle  Grande  ;  the  pavement, 
though  very  good  for  horses,  or  mules,  or  asses,  is  not  ex- 
actly the  best  adapted  for  very  pretty  delicate  feet,  cased  in 
satin  or  other  silk  shoes ;  and  moreover,  where  it  is  so 
rough,  there  is  a  necessity  of  keeping  the  hind- skirt  of  the 
garment  from  soiling  where  the  mules  have  gone  before 
them — what  was  to  be  done  ?  could  it  be  expected  that  cu- 
riosity would  regard  a  rough  pavement  ?  and  moreover  the 
ladies  of  Truxillo  had  never  seen  a  street  with  a  trottoiry  such 
as  we  have  at  Philadelphia,  and  such  as  they  have  not  at  Paris. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  265 

although  Mollien  finds  fault  with  Bogota  for  that  defect. 
They  in  fact  passed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  and  they 
peeped,  but  good  manners  did  not  permit  them  to  peep  long 
enough,  and  besides  the  night-cap  was  what  has  been  CiiUed  a 
mob-cap,  which  tied  under  the  chin,  and  there  were  I  know 
not  how  many  borders,  edged  with  a  very  narrow  lace,  and 
even  the  crown  itself  had  a  border  where  it  joined  the  head- 
piece ;  and  those  deep  borders,  which  were  intended  to  de- 
feat the  wantonness  of  the  sunbeams,  now  defeated  the  cu- 
riosity of  those  Senoritas,  who  wished  to  see  every  thing; 
after  passing  up  and  down,  first  at  this  side,  and  then  at 
that,  eyeing  the  object,  as  if,  like  Miranda  in  the  Tempest, 

They  could  no  woman's  face  remember, 
Save  from  the  glass  they'd  seen  their  own, 
Wondering  at  such  goodly  creatures, 
And  the  brave  world  that  had  such  people  in  it. 

At  length  female  curiosity  surmounted  all  scruples — and 
a  group  entered  the  corridor,  using  the  service  of  the  poor 
soldier's  widow,  who  already  seemed  herself  one  of  our  party  ; 
they  requested  to  be  admitted,  but  entered  upon  the  word. 
They  had  not  seen  me,  for  I  was  at  repose,  and  Richard 
was  climbing  the  sides  of  the  mountain  which  hung  its  steep 
sides  over  the  street,  and  shut  out  sunshine  three  fourths  of 
the  day. 

The  ladies  were  soon  intimate ;  they  asked  a  thousand 
questions,  in  perfect  good  nature,  and  in  perfect  good  nature 
they  were  answered ;  they  wished  to  see  the  cap — the  night 
cap,  but  night  was  coming  on,  and  intimations  of  the  even- 
ing repast  led  them  to  separate,  but  not  without  invitations 
to  visit  their  houses,  and  beseeching  us  not  to  leave  Trux- 
illo  so  soon.  There  was  indeed  a  succession  of  visiters  until 
night  warned  them  away.  My  daughter  not  expecting  to 
remain,  as  mules   had  been  applied  for  to  be  ready  in  the 

34 


266  VISIT  TO  C0L05IBIA. 

morning,  she  had  barely  taken  ofF  her  bonnet  and   riding- 
habit,  and  put  on  a  light  garment,  letting  her  cap  remain. 

But  they  were  with  us  in  the  morning — for  the  mules 
were  not  forthcoming — and  now  they  prayed  to  be  permitted 
to  take  a  pattern  of  the  cap — Elizabeth  went  to  her  trunk  to 
find  one  perfectly  unsoiled,  and  it  was  necessary  to  remove 
some  other  articles  to  get  at  it ;  this  was  opening  Pandora's 
box  ;  tlie  cap  was  lent  that  day,  and  before  we  left  Truxillo 
it  was  the  general  object  of  female  attraction.  Perhaps  they 
heard  some  passing  traveller  say  that  "  a  beautiful  woman 
never  looks  so  well  as  in  her  night- cap," — and  they  all  deter- 
mined to  look  well — for  every  one  had  taken  a  pattern.  But 
the  trunk  had  revealed  other  curiosities — come,  my  sweet 
friend,  said  one  of  them — "  Senorita  mia,  vamos — andar  por 
las  calies  y  tragear  sus  gran  vestidos — vamos^  mi  Senorita 
bonita — mi  aimga^  "  Come  my  sweet  friend,  promenade 
the  streets,  and  show  your  beautiful  clothes,  my  pretty 
friend."  How  it  was  possible  that  a  young  lady  should  have 
handsome  clothes  and  not  walk  abroad  to  show  them,  was 
beyond  their  conception — they  saw  every  thing  in  the  trunk — 
admired  every  thing — and  if  taking  a  pattern  could  procure 
them,  they  would  have  had  patterns  of  every  thing. 

The  Colombian  ladies,  generally,  when  allowed  to  follow 
their  own  taste,  dress  to  advantage ;  and,  although  they  use 
a  profusion  of  jewellery  in  their  hair,  on  their  necks  and  fin- 
gers, in  company,  their  method  of  attiring  themselves  and 
putting  up  their  fine  dark  long  hair  is  very  graceful.  Their 
familiarity  is,  to  my  taste,  much  to  be  preferred  to  the  stiff 
prudery  which  I  have  seen  in  other  countries.  They  never 
affect  coldness  or  reserve  ;  I  never  saw  any  instance  of  a 
want  of  decorum,  in  the  very  ardour  of  their  cheerful- 
ness. The  taste  for  dress,  I  have  understood  from  some  o 
them,  has  undergone  a  great  change  since  the  revolution. 
The  custom,  enforced  by  the  clergy,  of  compelling  females 
to  wear  a  particular  dress,  common  to  all  classes,  is  still  re- 


,  / 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S67 

tained,  and  it  is  not  unbecoming  ;  though  it  differs  at  Caracas 
and  Valencia  from  Tunja  and  Bogota.  Still  the  taste  for 
dress  is,  at  present,  greater  than  the  capacity  to  gratify  it. 
The  revolution  has  wrecked  the  fortunes  of  all  parties — 
the  royal  adherents  who  are  exiled,  and  the  republicans  who 
have  triumphed.  The  sources  of  opulence  however  remain 
with  the  victors,  and  its  growth,  however  slow,  is  inevitable. 
Meanwhile,  those  who  were  among  the  distinguished  formerly, 
endeavour  to  keep  up  former  appearances — and  it  is  not  no- 
ticed as  a  reproach,  for  how  could  misfortune,  arising  out  of 
virtuous  causes,  be  reproachable ;  it  is  only  noticed  as  the 
evidence  of  a  ruling  passion,  which,  being  an  object  of  inte- 
rest to  the  general  observer,  is  no  less  so  to  him  who  looks 
round  the  world  with  a  commercial  eye  ;  as  it  proves  that 
the  market  must  augment  progressively  with  public  and  pri- 
vate prosperity.  I  have  known,  in  respectable  families,  where 
there  were  no  silk  stockings  to  be  purchased,  the  females 
have  so  arranged  it,  that  they  should  have  those  they  could 
purchase  in  rotation,  and  the  females  who  remained  at  home 
from  one  ball,  go  to  the  next  in  rotation. 

The  scite  of  Truxillo  is  remarkable — imagine  a  bank  of 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mi'e  front,  facing  the  east,  sloping  ab- 
ruptly to  the  bank  of  the  Motatan,  which  pours  its  gurgling 
current  to  the  north.  The  southern  side  of  the  bank,  is  the 
foot  of  a  steep  precipitous  mountain,  which  continues  its  el- 
evation of  about  six  hundred  yards,  better  than  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  due  west,  where  it  suddenlv  turns  and  forms  a  nook 
of  not  forty  feet  wide  ;  the  mountain  now  pursuing  its 
J  course  a  point  or  tw^o  east  of  north,  not  quite  a  half  mile. 
So  that  the  west  end  of  this  valley,  which  is  no  where  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  and  narrows  to  forty  feet,  and  has 
for  its  sides  the  winding  chain  of  these  whimsical  moun- 
tains that  form  the  nook  on  which  Truxillo  stands.  The  ac 
count  given  by  Alcedo,  of  Truxillo,  is  marvellously  errone- 
ous; and  Bonny  castle,  though  taking  it  all  in  all,  as  the  best 


268  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

book  on  South  America  for  reference,  though  it  abounds  al- 
so with  errors ;  Bonnycastle  has  been  misled  by  his  author- 
ities. Upon  Alcedo,  generally,  there  is  little  dependence  to 
be  placed.  I  never  read  a  work  on  geography  so  abundant 
in  error,  or  so  defective  in  relation  to  what  it  professes  to 
give — correct  information. 

Besides  the  main  street,  which  is  the  only  one  that  ex- 
tends the  greater  length,  there  is  another  parallel  to  it,  on 
the  south  side,  and  part  of  a  street  on  the  north  side  ;  three 
or  four  streets  cross  these,  east  and  west.  The  country 
around  is  rich  and  prolific  ;  but  whatever  may  have  influen- 
ced the  settlement  of  Truxillo  in  this  nook,  and  its  contin- 
uance as  a  place  of  importance,  it  is  easy  to  discern,  that  a 
free  government,  by  enlarging  the  power  of  choice,  will  lead 
the  inhabitants  to  situations  more  eligible,  and  less  gloomy, 
than  the  nook  of  Truxillo. 

A  disease,  which,  though  not  peculiar  to  this  part  of  the 
world,  I  mean  the  Goitre,  is  very  prevalent  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, though  I  did  not  see  a  single  case  in  Truxillo — 
the  first  I  saw  in  Colombia,  was  on  the  road  from  Santa  Ana 
to  Truxillo,  where  I  was  taught  to  expect  to  see  it  seizing 
upon  every  throat ;  perhaps  I  saw  our  pretty  female  visitors 
with  the  more  pleasure,  as  not  one  of  them  had  that  deform- 
ity, nor  did  I  see  a  second,  till  I  had  advanced  towards 
Mendoza  :  as  far  as  a  transient  passage  would  enable  me  to 
judge,  the  goitre  appears  only  in  particular  districts;  and 
after  leaving  these,  a  considerable  space  is  passed  over  be- 
fore it  recurs  again.  I  did  not  see  it  at  Merida,  nor 
thence  to  Gritja ;  but  the  worthy  curate,  who  came  to  re- 
ceive us,  and  conduct  us  to  Sativa,  was  affected  by  goitre, 
which  it  was  some  time  before  I  perceived,  it  was  so  dexter- 
ously covered  by  a  green  guard  and  scarf.  The  charming 
people  of  Susacon  were  wholly  exempt  from  it,  and  I  felt 
some  delight  in  learning  from  Senora  Calderon,  the  lovely 
wife  of  the  alcalde,  that  it  was  not  known  in  their  parish, 
nor  for  some  miles  around.     Neither  was  it  visible  at  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  269 

beautiful  town  of  that  beautiful  and  kind  people  at  Santa 
Rosa,  nor  is  it  frequent  at  Tunja  or  Bogota,  though  some 
instances  prevail  there.  I  know  not  how  far  the  custom- 
ary dislike  of  salt,  which  prevails  every  where  in  Colom- 
bia, may  have  any  influence,  but  so  little  is  salt  in  use, 
that,  wherever  we  dined  with  any  of  our  friends,  a  salt-celler 
was  laid  for  us  only,  none  else  using  it  with  flesh,  fish,  or 
fowl.  The  government,  disposed  to  find  a  cure  for  this 
unsightly  disease,  has  promised  ample  rewards  to  those 
who  may  afford  remedies  for  its  cure  and  prevention. 

Our  domestic  arrangements  were  such  as  if  disposed  to 
remain  we  should  deem  convenient  enough,  but  we  were 
desirous  of  proceeding  forward.  The  commandant  was, 
perhaps,  too  much  occupied  in  mind  by  the  Spaniards,  who 
were  about  twenty-five  miles  distant,  to  bestow  any  regard 
upon  us.  We  had  endeavoured  to  prevail  upon  our  ariero 
to  accompany  us  to  Merida,  and  then  we  should  move  the 
next  morning,  but  as  was  his  intention  at  first,  he  had  already 
bargained  for  a  return  cargo,  and  we  must  wait  the  leisure  of 
the  higher  powers.  We  therefore  paid  our  cavalier,  Valen- 
tine, giving  him  a  letter  acknowledging  his  fidelity,  to  Co- 
lonel Gomez  who  recommended  him.  When  he  found  I 
had  said  nothing  in  censure  of  his  revels  and  fandangoes,  he 
was  particularly  eloquent:  he  had  amused  us  very  frequent- 
ly on  the  road  with  his  vivacity  and  vanity,  and  unceasing 
communicativeness.  This  hero  of  mule-drivers  was,  in  the 
main,  honest  in  pecuniary  affairs,  but  was  rather  indifferent 
to  veracity  when  it  interfered  with  his  wishes,  and  he  was 
apt  to  misrepresent  distance,  or  to  declare  a  place  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  more  or  less,  remote,  when  a  delay  or  a  forced 
march  would  bring  him  to  a  neighbourhood  where  he  could 
spend  his  night  at  a  fandango ;  but  lying  in  this  way  may 
be  considered  as  inseparable  from  the  muleteer  as  honour 
and  integrity  from  jockies  and  gamblers.  From  constantly 
passing  on  the  routes  between  Caracas  and  Truxillo,  which 
were  to  him  the  polar  regions,  he  knew  every  body,  and  dipt 


270  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

into  every  body's  business  ;  he  pointed  out,  as  we  passed  Hci- 
ciendas,  that  formerly  belonged  to  Godasy  and  (in  an  under 
voice)  some  Godas  who  still  remained,  who,  he  said,  el  eon- 
greso  ibolishly  permitted  to  remain.  He  could  tell  the  acts  and 
deeds  of  al!  the  eminent  Colombians  within  a  hundred  miles 
of  any  part  of  the  route,  and  never  failed,  when  he  had  told 
his  story,  to  refer  every  thing  to  Bolivar  and  el  congreso 
ile  Colombia.  He  was  a  sturdy  patriot,  and  explained  his 
ideas  ot  the  revolution  by  observing,  that  before  the  revolu- 
tion there  were  men  every  where  whom  it  was  not  safe  to  look 
at,  but  now  a  man  in  his  station,  tma  paisano  libre^  may  talk 
freely  and  look  at  any  body,  as  I  talk  and  look  at  you,  Seiior, 
por  favor ;  the  lawyers,  he  said,  had  not  the  same  power, 
though  they  still  vext  people  too  much  ;  and  somehow,  said 
he, — looking  round  lest  he  should  be  heard  by  some  one  in 
his  mind's  eye,  though  many  leagues  distant, — somehow  all 
the  ill-natured  priests  seem  to  have  gone  off  with  the  Godas, 
for  those  who  remain  treat  us  as  if  we  were  men.  He  was 
not  bashful  in  relating  his  own  exploits  in  two  campaigns, 
nor  that  among  the  muleteers  he  was  considered  no  small 
character  ;  he  had,  he  said,  some  qualifications  for  his  sta- 
tion in  life  ;  at  Valencia  or  San  Carlos  he  was  considered  as 
tKe  best  dancer  among  the  numerous  circle  of  his  acquaint- 
ance ;  but  that  Caracanian,  that  Vincente,  your  asistientey 
I  acknowledge,  beats  me  hollow.  When  impeached  of  leav- 
ing our  baggage  exposed,  and  he  and  Vincente  going  off  at 
night  to  dancing  places,  he  pleaded  guilty  to  going,  but  re- 
minded me  that  he  had  a  man-servant  especially  to  take  care 
of  his  own  mules,  and  of  course  our  baggage. 

The  absence  of  Valentine  at  night  was  nothing  to  us,  but 
he  carried  Vincent  with  him,  or  they  went  together,  and  the 
services  of  the  latter  were  sometimes  wanted  ;  besides,  we 
found  him  on  the  march  frequently  in  a  deep  sleep  on  his 
mule,  to  which  he  had  committed  himself  and  his  fortunes 
implicitly.  We  met  no  such  troublesomely  clever  muleteer 
on  the  rest  of  our  journey  as  our  ariero  Valentine,  and  when 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  271 

he  received  his  money  and  was  about  to  part,  with  a  good- 
natured  freedom  he  made  an  apologetic  confession,  that  he 
had  sometimes  given  us  more  displeasure  than  he  ought,  par- 
ticularly in  keeping  back  the  baggage  at  the  Spanish  camp, 
and  letting  us  go  on  without  our  blankets  to  Obispos ;  that  he 
never  travelled  with  any  people  more  to  his  satisfaction,  and 
if  it  were  possible  would  like  to  go  the  whole  world  over  with 
us.  Poor  Vincente  was  disconsolate  at  being  separated  from 
a  man  who  had  the  candour  to  acknowledge  him  his  superior 
at  a  fandango. 

The  unkindness,  or  the  more  serious  mental  occupation  of 
the  commandant  of  Truxillo,  had  now  detained  us  five  days  in 
this  gloomy  nook.  The  distance  to  Betijoque,  on  the  lake 
of  Maracaibo,  where  the  intendant  General  Lino  Clemente 
then  was  with  a  small  force  watching  Morales,  was  only  half 
a  day's  march.  I  dispatched  a  letter  to  him  in  the  afternoon, 
and  before  noon  the  next  day  I  had  his  kind  answer,  and  a 
visit  in  full  uniform  from  the  commandant  and  his  suite,  who 
regretted  his  not  knowing  who  I  was  before,  and  inviting 
me  to  dine  and  stay  a  day  longer ;  but  that  mules  should  be 
at  my  command  early  in  the  morning.  Of  course  1  had  no 
other  right  than  usage  to  expect  any  attention  from  the  com- 
mandant, but  the  promptitude  with  which  they  were  now 
provided,  only  proved  how  likely  a  mere  stranger  is  to  be 
disregarded,  when  an  officer  does  not  think  the  obligations  of 
his  nation  equally  imperative.     I  declined  any  visit. 

I  had  the  honour  of  a  personal  acquaintance  with  General 
Clemente  at  Philadelphia,  when  he  was  the  ministerial  agent 
of  the  republic  ;  he  gave  as  an  apology  for  not  coming  to  see 
me  on  my  route,  that  he  was  at  that  moment  in  presence  of 
Morales,  who  had  a  force  double  his  numbers,  and  could  do 
no  more  than  keep  him  in  check,  and  prevent  his  maraudings 
from  being  more  extensive  ;  he  advised  me  not  to  tarry  a 
moment,  but  move  forward  as  fust  as  possible,  as  my  route 
was  that  which  he  suspected  Morales  meant  to  take. 

During  our  detention  at  Truxillo,  we  were  not  without 


272  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

some  amusement.  The  poor  soldier's  widow,  to  ingratiate 
herself  with  my  daughter,  the  evening  of  our  arrival,  was  ve- 
ry useful  to  us,  and  very  interesting.  She  was  a  native  of 
Angostura,  and  had  come  all  that  way  in  prosecution  of 
some  claims  on  account  of  her  husband,  who  had  fallen  in 
battle ;  she  had  four  children  with  her,  and  one  of  them 
sung  in  a  most  interesting  style,  and  with  her  accompani- 
ment. Her  amusing  stories  and  her  interesting  songs  were 
delightful,  and  perhaps  the  more  so,  because  she  appeared 
to  study  nothing  but  to  contribute  to  our  comfort  and  satis- 
faction. The  little  girl,  of  ten  years,  who  sung  so  well,  was 
-constantly  with  us,  and  we  had  numerous  specimens  of  their 
popular,  patriotic,  romantic,  and  amatory  songs.  The  poor 
widow  was  besides  an  improvisatrice,  and  in  several  instances 
added  a  stanza  to  a  song,  complimentary  to  some  of  us.  Eli- 
zabeth gave  her  such  little  articles  as  could  be  spared,  for  her 
girls,  and  a  trifling  present  seemed  to  produce  as  much  gra- 
titude as  if  it  had  been  ample.  Indeed,  with  an  ardent  love  of 
music,  I  do  not  recollect  to  have  had  more  satisfaction  from 
melody  and  song,  than  from  the  unmeditated  concerts  of 
this  poor,  but  amiable  widow  and  her  orphans.  We  left 
Truxillo  on  the  twenty-third  of  December,  at  eleven  o'clock, 
and  descending  the  steep  ravine,  by  which  we  entered  the 
town,  we  were  surprised  to  find  the  poor  widow  on  the  road 
side  with  her  children,  where  she  had  placed  herself  to  take 
a  last  sight  of  us,  and  to  express  her  gratitude  and  her  bles- 
sings. While  we  descended  along  the  rugged  bank  of  the 
Motatan,  she  continued  to  hold  up  her  scarf,  and  wave  it  in 
the  air,  until  we  were  hidden  by  the  winding  of  the  valley.— 
The  pain  is  much  greater  than  the  interest  excited  by  the 
knowledge  of  such  afflictions  as  this  poor  widow  and  her  or- 
phans were  exposed  to  by  the  afflictions  of  war :  it  was  some 
mitigation,  however,  to  reflect,  that  she  was  in  a  country 
where  indigence  can  never  famish  ;  where  charity  is  so  unaf- 
fected as  to  divest  its  favours  of  arrogance  or  contempt  ;^ 
where  perpetual  spring  saves  the  unfortunate  from  that  seve* 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  273 

rity  of  wretchedness  where  cold  and  avarice  produce  insen- 
sibility and  hardness  of  heart. 

We  had,  in  going  to  Truxillo,  to  pass  about  three  miles 
south  of  the  highway ;  for  it  is  so  far  from  the  road ;  we 
had  now  returned  back  those  three  miles,  and  following  the 
stream  of  the  Motatan,  to  the  westward,  where  we  had  no  ac- 
tual path,  as  our  track  sometimes  crossed  the  river,  passing 
through  cane  brakes,  sugar  patches,  coffee  plantations,  and 
cacao  groves.  By  half-past  two  we  passed  the  vilhige  of 
Pampanita  without  halting,  and  entered  on  Savana  LargOy 
where,  about  five,  we  turned  off  from  the  road,  to  an  adjacent 
house  of  some  magnitude,  where  we  resolved  to  sleep  ;  we 
entered  without  knocking,  and  were  in  our  hammocks  by 
nine  o'clock.  It  rained  pretty  heavy  all  night.  We  were 
on  our  march  by  seven  in  the  morning  of  the  24th.  This 
llanura  or  plain,  was  not  a  dead  flat,  but  on  the  north  side 
had  a  steep  bank,  of  more  than  fifty  feet  descent,  to  the  vast 
plain  on  that  side ;  on  the  south  side,  it  was  a  broken,  but 
verdant  ground,  with  hillocks,  which  prevented  its  line  of 
declination  from  being  so  visible,  and  clumps  of  trees,  and 
some  forest  in  the  distance,  gave  it  a  very  picturesque  appear- 
ance ;  the  plain  may  be  about  twelve  miles  in  length,  our 
course  was  to  the  north-west,  or  nearly  so,  in  its  prolongation, 
and  at  the  west  extremity,  the  ground  gave  a  platform  more 
elevated,  and  ascending  as  it  receded  to  the  west ;  the  general 
breadth  of  this  llanura^  was  about  four  to  five  miles ;  the 
plain  to  the  west  and  north-east  below,  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  numerous  plantations,  and  former  opulence  at 
least ;  for  every  thing  was  then  stagnant,  owing  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  a  Spanish  force,  double  in  number  to  the  Co- 
lombians. 

We  continued  our  way,  procured  some  fine  milk  on  the 
road,  and  descended  to  the  lower  plain,  passing  the  Hacien- 
da de  la  Plata,  once  the  property  of  a  very  opulent  royalist 
planter.     I  had  seen  but  few  plantations  which  bore  more 


ST-il  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

substantial  evidence  of  the  riches  of  its  former  proprietor  than 
this  ;  and,  though  going  rapidly  to  utter  ruin,  it  was  ventrable 
even  in  its  decay.  After  a  very  pleasant  ride,  we  reached  a 
hamlet  of  some  thirty  detached  houses  on  a  plain,  it  was 
called  Valeria.  We  found  the  people,  who  had  not  yet  fled,  in 
a  state  of  trepidation  ;  and  the  alcalde  appeared  to  me,  from 
his  demeanor,  as  if  he  was  calculating  upon  the  question  of 
maintaining  or  betraying  his  post.  He  found  no  pleasure 
in  exercising  his  duties,  and  upon  our  reiterated  inquiries  for 
mules,  he  gave  no  other  answer  than  ahora  ! — ahora  si  I — 
presently,  or  immediately  ;  but  it  seemed  as  if,  when  he  said 
ahora,  he  meant  ?iot  now,  but  never,  I  shewed  him  the 
letter  received  from  the  Intendant,  and  told  him  I  should 
report  his  conduct ;  at  length  I  sent  the  sergeant  to  him,  to 
say,  that  I  had  found  numerous  mules,  concealed  under  his 
charge,  at  a  house  which  was  designated,  that  I  suspected 
he  intended  them  for  the  enemy ;  and  if,  in  ten  minutes,  he 
did  not  furnish  me  with  mules,  I  should  take  and  pay  for 
them,  and  send  the  sergeant  with  a  complaint  to  General 
Clemente,  who  was  now  only  fifteen  miles  distant.  We  had 
yet  to  pass  a  long  and  dreary  paramo,  and  the  summit  of 
our  route  was,  at  the  moment,  covered  with  clouds  mena- 
cing rain.  Food  and  forage  were  not  to  be  procured  here  ; 
and  the  alcalde  appeared  utterly  stupified  ;  whenever  we  sought 
eggs,  poultry,  or  any  provisions,  the  answer  was  no  aye — or 
no  aye  nada,  en  esta  casa — or  simply,  no  aye  ;  nothing  here, 
nothing  in  this  house,  we  have  nothing  ;  the  proximity  of  the 
Spaniards  had  produced  these  terrors.  The  alcalde,  appre- 
hensive of  the  menaces  of  complaint,  at  length  permitted  the 
sergeant  to  select  some  horses  accustomed  to  the  Paramo, 
and  after  taking  a  hearty  meal  of  our  own  provisions,  pur- 
chased for  us  by  our  poor  widow  at  Truxillo,  we  deter- 
mined to  proceed  at  three  o'clock,  although  it  was  already 
raining  very  heavy.  We  prepared  our  cloaks  and  garments 
for  the  storm,  preferring  a  wet  jacket  to  an  interview  with  . 
Morales,  and  proceeded  towards  the  Paramo,  over  a  plain  al- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  275 

ready  in  a  puddle,  and  before  an  hour  we  had  our  heads 
above  the  clouds ;  for  the  earth,  on  which  we  moved,  ap- 
peared  like  a  great  island,  in  the  midst  of  a  boundless  sea. 
The  air  being  moderately  warm,  we  uncloaked  to  continue 
our  ascent  over  a  still  more  lofty  paramo ;  we  passed  one 
chain,  and  found  the  verdure  of  a  more  northern  climate, 
and  the  dewberry  bramble,  with  very  fine  flavoured  berries ; 
but  we  had  to  ascend  again  a  loftier  path,  and  over  a  longer, 
colder,  and  steep  paramo,  of  which  nor  words  nor  painting 
could  convey  a  true  picture.  It  was  a  tremendous,  dreary, 
desolate  track  ;  and  when  we  came  to  descend  the  rude  laby- 
rinth, winding  in  long  mazes  diagonally  down  its  steep  sides, 
where  vegetation  had  disappeared,  and  left  a  wild  disorder  of 
rocks  and  stones,  which  if  put  in  motion  would  inevitably 
plunge  into  the  valley  three  or  more  miles  down,  I  found  rid- 
ing so  fatiguing,  that  I  dismounted,  hoping  to  relieve  myself, 
and  the  poor  animal  that  carried  me  ;  but  I  found  very  soon 
that  I  had  miscalculated  the  supposed  preference  of  walk- 
ing to  riding,  and  learned  to  appreciate  the  value  of  my  mule, 
which,  after  this  long  journey,  appeared  to  be  no  more  affected 
than  at  our  departure.  A  skirt  of  the  long  valley  of  Mendoza 
at  length  broke  upon  our  sight ;  we  never  dreamt  that  Men- 
doza was  still  five  miles  distant.  But  the  descent  became 
less  fatiguing,  and  here  I  was  attracted  by  the  figure  of  the 
mountain  in  our  front.  A  valley  running  to  the  east,  sepa- 
rated it  from  the  paramo  on  which  we  were  ;  the  river  Mo- 
tatan  appeared  flowing  towards  us  for  many  a  mile  from  the 
south,  and  beneath  our  feet  cut  the  base  of  the  opposite 
mountain,  which  presented  a  steep,  absolutely  perpendicular 
mound,  with  a  handsome  village  on  its  summit ;  from  that 
bank,  the  range  of  paramo,  of  which  it  was  the  northern  ter- 
mination, was  seen  to  an  immense  distance.  The  valley  ap- 
peared but  narrow,  seemingly  not  half  a  mile  from  our 
point  of  view,  but  it  exceeded  two  miles ;  the  mountains 
on  the  west  side,  though  running  parallel  with  those  on  the 
east,  were  not  so  steep;   and  they  exhibited  verdure  and 


S76  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

many  openings,  that  gave  it  a  very  beautiful  aspect.  But  I 
could  not  conjecture  how  they  found  access  to  the  village, 
seen  on  the  steep  platform,  which  must  have  been  half  a  mile 
from  the  river  below. 

At  length  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  paramo,  and  saw  the 
laughing  valley,  its  limpid  stream  flowing  gently  by  us, 
and  a  handsome  platform  thrown  across  a  mill  race,  which 
we  had  to  pass ;  the  clatter  of  the  cogs,  and  the  ricketty 
motion  of  the  hopper,  were  cheering  to  us,  and  we  turned  into 
the  yard  of  the  first  house  to  rest,  and  refresh.  We  obtained 
milk,  eggs,  and  some  fine  wheaten  bread  ;  and  set  off"  for 
Mendoza,  expecting  to  reach  it  yet  before  dark  ;  but  it  was 
half  an  hour  after  seven  before  we  entered  the  village.  We 
rode  up  to  the  church  as  the  place  most  likely  to  learn  the 
residence  of  the  alcalde.  It  appeared  that  the  alcalde's  resi- 
dence was  three  miles  further  south,  and,  as  the  church  is 
often  the  last  resort  of  adversity,  we  enquired  for  the  curate. 
It  was  Christmas  eve,  and  a  preparation  of  fire- works  was 
making  on  the  plain.  A  good-natured  citizen,  seeing  us  as 
strangers,  went  unsolicited,  and  apprised  the  curate,  who 
soon  appeared,  and  in  the  kindest  manner  led  us  to  a  large 
hall  adjoining  the  church  ;  here  we  found  some  half  a  dozen 
boys,  under  charge  of  a  coadjutor,  rehearsing  a  colloquy  or 
catechism,  in  which  the  majesty  of  darkness  was  the  dispu- 
tant on  one  side,  and  what  angels  or  saints  spoke  on  the  op- 
posite side  I  could  not  make  out,  but  the  poor  devil  had 
once  more  fallen  into  hands  stronger  than  his  own,  and,  as 
might  be  expected,  had  the  worst  of  the  argument. 

The  curate,  unaware  that  we  had  provisions  with  us,  had 
ordered  supper  himself,  of  which  we  knew  nothing  till  the 
two  repasts  entered  together ;  we  did  not  neglect  thanks  any 
more  than  our  appetites ;  but  whether  he  thought  we  were 
heretics,  Jews,  or  atheists,  which  are  all  the  same  thing,  he 
took  care  to  renew  the  exercises,  probably  for  the  good  of 
our  souls,  while  we  were  taking  care  of  our  bodies ;   the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  277 

exercises  were  urged  now  with  more  particular  emphasis, 
whenever  the  "  mobbled  king's*'  doings  were  touched  ;  we 
did  not  so  well  comprehend  the  exercises  at  the  first,  but 
the  representative  of  fallen  majesty  appeared  worse  and 
worse  on  the  repetition,  and  seemed  now  unable  to  make  out 
his  own  case.  I  dare  say  the  worthy  curate  considered  him- 
self as  doing  a  greater  service  to  our  souls  than  our  bodies. 

The  preparations  for  festivity  and  rejoicing,  which  we  had  / 
seen  at  our  entrance  into  Mendoza,  began  soon  to  be  heard, — 
as  loud  and  noisy  as  if  the  devil  himself  were  there — squibs, 
crackers,  rockets,  guns,  and  the  din  of  bugles,  some  half- 
cracked,  and  others  in  utter  discord,  kept  up  a*pother,  that 
if  there  were  not  elsewhere  examples  as  noisy,  we  should 
probably  have  thought  it  no  proof  of  their  taste  for  enjoy- 
ment; however,  the  stock  of  combustible  was  probably 
limited ;  indeed,  the  day's  sermon  and  the  night's  colloquy 
had  brimstone  enough  to  blow  up  all  the  legions  of  pan- 
demonium ;  and,  by  way  of  requiem^  midnight  brought 
in  stuff  of  another  kind — the  tones  of  lyric  instruments, 
and  of  some  instruments  that  were  new,  and  which  we  had 
no  opportunity  to  examine  until  we  reached  Timothes, 
were  conspicuous  for  their  shrillness  and  the  originality  of 
the  cadences ;  in  an  adjacent  room  to  that  in  which  we 
were  hung  up,  there  was  an  instrument  very  much  like  a 
stringed-instrument  of  Asia ;  the  body  was  formed  of  a  ca- 
labash of  about  eighteen  inches  diameter,  with  a  belly  or  face 
of  no  mean  execution,  and  well  varnished ;  the  handle  and 
finger-board  at  least  four  feet  long;  the  three  strings  were  gut, 
an  \  of  the  size  of  those  common  to  the  violoncello  ;  it  had 
stops  and  frets,  set  by  the  ear ;  in  truth  it  made  no  disagree- 
able music,  and  was  very  well  adapted  to  accompany  a 
good  voice,  as  they  performed,  I  could  perceive — for  I  could 
not  sleep,  and  therefore  got  up  to  see  as  well  as  hear — 
with  as  much  consciousness  of  excellence,  as  Gilles  on  his 
inimitable  violoncello,  or  IFillis  on  his  Fox  Humana  ;  and  if 


878  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

we  were  not  as  much  pleased  at  hearing  the  present  perfor- 
mers, as  those  named,  it  was  not  from  any  want  of  desire  to 
please — and  he  must  be  a  sorry  being  who  could  be  dissatis- 
fied with  efforts  so  earnest. 

As  the  night  retired,  before  the  approach  of  morning  the 
festivity  weaned,  and  we  fell  asleep,  like  our  entertainers, 
and  should  probably  have  slept  till  eight  or  nine  o'clock, 
had  not  the  church-bells  rung  a  peal  in  our  ears  of  such 
discordant  clangor,  that  fatigue  itself  could  not  contend 
against  it — and,  as  it  was  Christmas  morning,  we  were  up 
and  ready  to  move  by  six ;  but  the  mules  had  not  yet  ar- 
rived. Chocolate  was  prepared,  as  usual,  and  while  we  were 
regaling,  the  alcalde  presented  himself  in  an  unusual  style 
for  village  magistrates.  He  was  a  respectable  and  a  sensible 
man,  and,  as  we  learned,  had  taken  the  office  more  for  pub- 
lic benefit  than  private  advantage  ;  he  was  a  planter,  and, 
indignant  at  the  abuses  practised  by  his  predecessors,  had 
accepted  the  station  to  put  an  end  to  the  depravity  which 
had  been  exercised  under  its  name.  His  appearance  among 
the  crowd  of  both  sexes  seemed  to  produce  a  degree  of 
pleasure,  which  must  have  given  him  more  delight  than  mil- 
lions could  purchase.  We  were  soon  ready,  and  while  our 
baggage  was  loading,  our  respects  to  the  curate  and  thanks 
were  communicated,  and  he  even  wished  us  to  stay  that  day, 
nor  was  the  alcalde  less  importunate. 

Mendoza  is  itself  not  a  regularly  laid-out  town,  but  a  num- 
ber of  houses  detached  on  the  upper  side  of  the  valley  ;  nor 
is  .there  in  the  range  of  five  or  six  miles  which  it  presents  at 
a  view  any  appearance  of  cultivation,  but  it  is  in  the  valleys 
adjacent,  in  the  range  upon  our  right  as  we  entered,  that  the 
inhabitants  of  Mendoza  carry  on  a  rich  and  extensive  cul- 
ture. The  church,  which  was  now  rebuilding,  was  an  indi- 
cation of  the  surrounding  opulence ;  for  no  pains  nor  money 
seem  to  have  been  spared  to  render  it  as  durable  as  time  ; 
blocks  of  stone,  some  of  which  Mere  to  serve  instead  of 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  279 

arches,  and  to  cover  the  side  aisles  like  a  terrace ;  the  yet 
unshaped  shafts  of  columns  were  of  such  magnitude  as  would 
serve  to  erect  a  Palmyra.  The  design  was  in  a  good  taste, 
excepting  the  unnecessary  thickness  of  the  walls.  Much  of 
the  disadvantageous  appearance  of  Mendoza  is  to  be  attri- 
buted to  causes  which  have  been  before  noticed,  the  flight  of 
whole  families  into  the  adjacent  valleys  to  avoid  the  inso- 
lence, the  violence,  and  the  outrages  of  the  enemy  on  the 
highways  through  which  they  marched.  The  fine  streams 
which  irrigate  this  naturally  beautiful  and  luxuriant  valley, 
will  most  probably  recal  many  who  had  emigrated  in  conse- 
quence of  the  war,  and  certainly  new  settlers  could  not  fix 
upon  a  position  more  favourable,  where  intercourse  with  the 
ocean  was  not  desired. 

The  curate,  who  was,  notwithstanding  his  free  use  of  brim- 
stone,  and  his  bedevilment  of  the  hero  of  Milton,  which  by 
the  bye  was  intended  for  the  auditory  this  day,  and  our  hear- 
ings only  rehearsals, — the  worthy  curate  was  urbane,  cordial, 
and  disinterested.  He  had  pretensions  to  learning,  as  his  li- 
brary was  stocked  with  the  canon  laws,  the  laws  of  the  In- 
dies, Thomas  Aquinas,  and  the  lives  of  more  than  a  thousand 
saints ;  he  knew  also  how  to  make  dials,  of  which  we  had  the 
demonstration  before  our  eyes ;  for,  whoever  rode  up  to  the 
church  front,  hitched  his  horse  or  mule  to  a  hook  in  an  up- 
right post,  on  each  of  three  of  the  four  faces  of  which  there 
were  pasted  a  dial,  the  lines  and  hours  in  very  handsome  pen- 
manship, and  as  they  appeared  to  have  stood  some  tirne,  and 
were  not  injured  by  weather,  served  as  a  good  evidence  of 
the  mildness  of  the  climate.  As  an  indicator  of  the  hours,  it 
no  doubt  would  have  been  correct,  had  not  the  post  been 
used  to  hitch  the  horses,  for,  while  I  stood  examining  it,  a 
horse  that  was  somewhat  mulish,  had  drawn  the  post  two  or 
three  degrees  out  of  a  perpendicular. 


«8() 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Alcalde  of  Mendoza — much  beloved. — Move  at  seven  o'clock  Christmas  day 
— meet  the  Motatan  river  again. — The  Momboy  river — Dark  night — for- 
tunate escape — phenomena  of  steep  vertical  banks  of  earth. — River  of  Ti- 
mothes — boundary  of  Truxillo  and  Merida — enter  Timothes  at  midnight 
— alcalde  abroad  carousing — look  to  the  church,  and  take  quarters  in  the 
curate's  parlour — who  is  from  home — curate  surprised  by  a  lady's  bonnet  in 
the  morning — a  worthy  man — well  informed — much  beloved — hospitable — his 
attentions, — Situation  of  Timothes — the  festivity — mode  of  celebration. — 
Mules  at  four  o'clock — reach  Chacapo  at  seven  o'clock — cold  night  uncom- 
fortable— striking  change  in  apparel. — Erica,  or  heath. —  Humboldt  says  none 
in  America,  found  it  of  a  fine  species. —  Drummond,  and  other  botanists,  same 
mistake. — JMuchacheea — numerous  crosses. — Virgin  of  Chinchinquira, — Appa- 
rel changes. — Intelligence — hospitality  and  kindness  of  a  young  alcalde. 

The  politeness  of  the  alcalde,  at  Mendoza,  was  exem- 
plary and  gratifying.  He  was  a  plain,  unaffected,  country 
farmer,  whose  good  sense  was  manifest  in  his  deportment,  as 
well  as  his  discourse.  It  was  very  pleasing  to  perceive  with 
how  much  satisfaction  he  .was  received  and  seen  by  the  in- 
habitants, aud  how  solicitous  he  was  to  avoid  the  idea  of 
presuming  any  thing  upon  his  office.  He  accompanied  us 
some  miles,  and  wished  us  to  visit  his  plantation,  which  he 
pointed  out  not  very  distant. 

Every  thing  being  ready,  we  moved  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
again  found  the  Motatan,  which  we  had  left  on  our  right  at 
Savana  Larga,  notwithstanding  the  vast  paramo  we  had 
placed  between  us  and  it,  and  here  we  kept  it  company  for 
about  ten  miles ;  and,  in  a  subsequent  stage,  found  it  again 
entering  into  the  Capitanejo.  We  passed  La  Puerta,  and 
reached  the  foot  of  Xa  Cuesta,  a  very  steep  ascent,  and 
were  involved  in  a  very  dense  and  offensive  mist,  which 
continued  a  great  way  down  the  steep  sides  of  the  paramo, 
of  which  we  gained  the  bottom  at  five  o'clock,  and  halted  to 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  281 

take  some  refreshment  of  bread,  cheese,  and  guarapa^  there 
being  no  milk  to  be  had  ;  we  continued  our  journey  at  six 
o'clock,  the  climate  fine  and  the  country  beautiful ;  till  we 
entered  the  broad  bed  of  the  Momboy,  forming,  at  this  sea- 
son, when  its  waters  are  lowest,,  a  violent  torrent.    Our  bag- 
gage had  not  yet  overtaken  us.    The  bed  of  this  river  appears 
in  many  places  two   miles  wide,  but  narrows  in  various 
places,  and  is  not  constant  to  one  shore  ;  so  that  when   the 
channel  winds  among  its  large  rounded  rocks  towards  the 
right   side,  on  which  the  rock  lies,  the  traveller  is   com- 
pelled to  ascend  the  steep  banks,  and  follow  a  devious  and 
ever  changing  way,  until,  by  the  capricious  transition  of  the 
torrent  to  the  opposite  side,  the  margin  of  the  river  bed  be- 
comes the  most  eligible  path.     Night  had  encroached  upon 
us,  from  the  difficulty  of  moving  in  those  wilds,  and  as,  in 
situations  like  this,  our  practice  was  to  follow  the  sergeant  in 
Indian  file,  one  of  the  servants,  Vincent,  remaining  with  the 
baggage,  and  Pedro  bringing  up  our  rear :  we  had  turned 
aside  from  a  winding  of  the  torrent,  and  ascended  a  path 
which  had  been  trodden  for  many  years ;  the  serjeant  led, 
and  we  were  slowly  following,  in  succession,  on  the  margin 
of  a  perpendicular  bank  of  earth,   more  than   250  feet  ele- 
vated above  the  bed  of  the  river  ;  when  the  sergeant  exclaim- 
ed, in  an  undertone,  "  Colonel!  Halt  !'*  I  pulled  up,  and 
gave  the  word  to  Elizabeth,  who  was  next  me,  to  halt  also. 
The  position  in  which  the  sergeant  was  placed  was  tremen- 
dous, the  continuance  of  the  path,  beyond  where  he  stood, 
was  totally  carried  away,  and  another  step  would  have  pre- 
cipitated him  over  the  frightful  chasm  ;  with  great  presence 
of  mind  he  gently  brought  his  mule  back  by  the  rein,  and  in 
a  cheerful  tone,  halloed  to  Lieutenant  Bache,  "  Come,  lieu- 
tenant, you  must  retreat,   come  to  the  right  about:"  we 
came  about,  and  moved  to  the  upper  side  of  the  hill,  where 
we  called  a  council  of  war,  and  congratulated  the  sergeant 
on  his  presence  of  mind  and  fortunate  escape. 

36 


282  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  Momboy  is  subject  to  sudden  overflowings,  and  ita 
steep  sides  prove  that  the  volume  of  its  flood  must  be  ex- 
traordinary ;  the  elevation  and  magnitude  of  the  paramos, 
whose  ravines  contribute  to  its  flood,  account  for  the  waters 
supplied,  as  well  as  the  sudden  decrease  of  its  current,  with 
the  serenity  of  the  atmosphere  on  these  summits.  This 
river,  and  what  belongs  to  this,  is  also  a  property  of  the 
numerous  rivers  of  great  magnitude,  south  of  the  Coxedc. 
The  steep  bank  of  the  platform  of  Barquisimeto,  though 
steep,  is  not  a  perpendicular  bank,  its  sides  have  a  sloping 
buttress  of  rocks  and  earth,  which  the  short  distance  between 
its  sources  and  the  front  of  Barquisimeto,  does  not  supply 
such  abundant  contributions  as  the  paramos  of  Santa  Rosa, 
among  which  the  sierra  of  Truxillo  are  inferior  ranges.  In 
the  Motatan,  the  Momboy,  and  the  Chama,  the  beds  arc 
frequently  two  or  three  miles  broad,  covered  with  rounded 
stones  from  six  inches  to  sixty  in  diameter ;  and  in  the  dry 
season  the  stream  is  divided  into  several  dispersed  channels, 
while,  in  the  rainy  season,  the  whole  breadth  is  covered  with 
a  rapid  and  deep  torrent,  sometimes  approaching,  and  at 
other  points  winding,  at  a  distance,  round  the  promontories 
and  headlands,  which  its  own  violent  current  has  been  form- 
ing for  countless  ages.  What  is  most  extraordinary,  is  the 
vertical  steeps  which  those  banks  present  on  the  river  sides. 
They  appear,  in  some  instances,  an  uniform  mass  of  grey 
earth,  and  I  have  sometimes  thought  that  their  appearance, 
and  the  strait  steepness  of  those  banks,  suggested  the  adop- 
tion oi pita  for  the  walls  of  houses.  Some  of  those  banks, 
as  the  Momboy,  present  walls  or  fronts  sixty  to  two  hundred 
feet  high,  without  any  verdure,  nor  even  a  pendant  or  droop- 
ing plant.  Others  present  a  wall  as  elevated,  which  is  stud- 
ded with  rounded  stones,  of  from  a  tenth  of  an  inch  to  four 
or  five  inches  diameter,  generally  kidney-shaped,  or  flat  egg- 
shapes  ;  these  naked  perpendicular  fronts  show  no  fissure, 
no  crumbling  or  decay,  such  as  banks  of  earth  would  show 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  283 

in  climates  where  the  expansive  power  of  cold,  in  the  form 
of  frost  and  snow,  burst  asunder  the  earth,  in  which  mois- 
ture has  been  retained ;  here  the  agency  of  heat  carries  off  in 
exhalation  the  moisture  of  those  natural  walls,  without  dis- 
turbing the  atoms  of  which  they  are  composed. 

It  was  over  a  steep  bank  of  this  description,  where  the  ordi- 
nary path  had  led  for  time  immemorial,  we  learned,  after  our 
fortunate  escape,  that  the  Momboy  had  experienced  an  un- 
usual flood  the  preceding  spring,  and  that,  by  some  change  in 
the  materials  of  its  bed,  a  sort  of  mound  of  rocks  had  given 
a  direction  to  the  flood  against  this  promontory,  and  that  it 
had  fallen  but  a  few  days  before,  but  without  doing  any  in- 
jury. Had  we  rode  horses  instead  of  mules,  it  is  questiona- 
ble whether  we  should  have  escaped.  We  accordingly  turned 
and  retraced  our  way  to  the  point  from  which  we  had  mount- 
ed to  the  bank,  and  the  sergeant  finding  the  track  of  other 
mules  in  a  place  where  a  stranger  would  not  think  of  looking 
for  them,  or  when  seen  might  not  know  them,  we  ascended 
in  another  dnection,  and  gained  the  road  a  mile  beyond  the 
sunken  bank.  We  now  travelled  by  the  left  bank  in  sight 
of  the  turbulent  roar  of  the  Timothes.  It  was  about  eleven 
o'clock  when  we  entered  the  village  of  the  same  name ;  the 
villagers  on  the  banks  of  the  Timothes  w^ere  as  boisterous  as 
its  stream.  This  river  separates  the  jurisdiction  of  Truxillo 
from  Merida.  The  festivity  of  the  night  had  left  a  few  strag- 
glers, from  whom  we  learned  the  position  of  the  alcalde's 
house,  but  he  was  at  a  neighbouring  village  at  a  ball,  and 
his  wife  protested  loudly  against  the  admission  of  any  man. 
We  endeavoured  to  quiet  her,  by  assuring  her  it  was  a  lady 
who  wished  her  civility,  and  desired  to  know  where  she 
would  advise  us  to  look  for  quarters ;  but  her  answer  was 
that  we  should  not  come  in,  and  so  we  moved  about  in  search 
of  a  church,  which  we  found  in  one  angle  of  the  plaza,  and 
were  not  mistaken  in  finding  the  comfortable  residence  of  the 
curate  along  side  it.    The  trampling  of  our  mules  brought  a 


284  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

well  conditioned  Indian,  in  a  state  between  laughing  and 
sleeping  to  the  gate,  which  he  opened  and  we  entered  without 
questions  on  either  side.  The  spacious  room  on  the  front  we 
immediately  occupied,  and  some  female  servants  finding  a 
lady  was  in  company,  frankly  offered  their  services.  It  was 
Christmas  day,  and,  since  our  bread  and  milk  at  the  foot  of 
La  Cuesta,  we  had  neither  eaten  nor  drank  j  but  the  choco- 
late pot  was  soon  in  preparation  both  by  Pedro  and  the  dam- 
sels of  the  domicil,  and  it  was  brought  in  while  our  ham- 
mocks were  preparing ;  our  mules  were  placed  in  the  corals 
and  the  Indian,  who  was  now  broad  awake,  brought  molocha^ 
that  is,  young  corn-stalks.  The  curate  was  at  the  frolic  in 
the  adjacent  village,  and  when  he  came  home  found  his  par- 
lour occupied  by  strangers,  and  his  handsome  table  covered 
with  blue  cloth,  occupied  by  a  lady's  bonnet  in  gay  ribbons 
and  a  shawl.  Nobody  could  tell  who  we  were,  whence  w^e 
came,  or  where  we  were  going ;  and  though  I  heard  the  in- 
quiries, I  was  too  much  in  want  of  sleep  to  go  to  confession 
so  early  in  the  mining. 

The  curate  was,  nevertheless,  up  with  the  dawn  to  cele- 
brate his  official  duties ;  he  had  ordered  an  excellent  break- 
fast, though  he  had  not  seen  one  of  us ;  our  cocinero  had 
previously  been  prepared,  by  the  activity  of  the  sergeant, 
with  poultry  and  eggs  purchased  in  the  village,  and  Ave  had 
taken  down  our  hammocks  and  were  at  high- breakfast  when 
the  curate  entered,  and  gave  us  a  most  cheerful  welcome ; 
regretting  when  he  saw  that  the  breakliist  he  had  ordered  for 
us  was  not  served  as  he  intended  ;  Elizabeth  and  I  renewed 
the  contest  with  the  chocolate,  and  some  delicious  lemonade, 
with  cinnamon  and  rose-water,  which  was  handed,  to  my 
surprise,  with  the  wishes  of  the  season.  We  mentioned  our 
want  of  mules,  he  said  he  would  do  his  best,  but  was  appre- 
hensive we  should  be  disappointed  of  mules  on  that  day,  as 
every  one  was  engaged  in  festivity.  Some  excellent  fruit, 
which  the  festivity  had  brought  to  Timothcs  for  other  per- 


VISIT  TO  Colombia;  SS5 

sons,  came  in  time  to  enable  the  good  priest  to  afford  a  tes- 
timony of  his  hospitality  and  politeness ;  and  when  we  had 
satisfied  ourselves,  he  said  he  would  keep  the  remainder  for 
us  lest  none  should  be  procurable  elsewhere.  He  apolo- 
gized for  leaving  us,  as  this  day  was  one  of  the  three  nation- 
al festivals,  he  must  recommend  us  to  the  charge  of  his  house, 
and  to  call  upon  the  domestics  for  whatever  we  should  need; 
as  our  habits  were  disciplined  by  this  time  to  our  situa- 
tion, good  appetites  and  abundance  of  fine  fruit  made  mat- 
ters not  so  disagreeable. 

This  amiable  man  placed  the  key  in  the  handsome  book- 
case, and  invited  us  to  use  his  library,  which,  though  not 
very  ample,  contained  many  books  which  I  did  not  expect 
to  find  in  that  Indian  village ;  for,  besides  some  of  divinity, 
on  abstract  theology,  his  historical  and  classical  stock  were 
the  most  numerous,  besides  several  mathematical  works. 

The  house  being  on  the  open  square,  every  thing  that 
passed  there  was  visible  ;  and  as  the  three  festivals  of  Christ- 
mas, St.  Stephen,  and  St.  John,  were  also  the  festivals  of  In- 
dependence ;  the  26th,  to  union  and  the  constitution  ;  and  the 
27th,  to  victory  and  the  memory  of  those  who  had  fallen  in 
defence  of  liberty ;  the  church  was  decorated  with  garlands 
and  bouquettes,  and  branches  of  palm  and  laurel.  The 
plaza  had  no  fence,  but  houses  on  three  faces  of  the  square, 
the  other,  being  in  front  of  the  church,  had  a  light  bamboo 
fence  to  mark  the  square.  The  roll  of  the  tambour  was 
heard  at  a  distance  early,  and  a  native  instrument  of  the 
hautboy  species,  upon  which  a  melancholy  cadence  was 
heard,  during  the  day,  without  much  intermission  ;  but  with 
frequent  pauses,  and  no  connected  passages.  The  tam- 
bours were  also  aboriginal,  they  were  in  fact  small  kettle- 
drums in  shape  and  tone ;  and  there  were  several  of  them 
of  unequal  tones,  exactly  like  those  in  use  throughout 
Hindustan ;  these  instruments  were  all  performed  upon  by 
aborigines;    indeed  the  society  appeared  to  derive  much. 


286  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

more  satisfaction  from  their  instrumental  music  than  we 
did.  The  engagements  of  the  curate,  he  told  us,  must 
deprive  him  of  the  satisfaction  of  our  company ;  he  had 
his  wife  to  attend,  he  said,  jocosely  pointing  to  the  church, 
and  he  must  render  her  the  morning  honours,  and  he  ac- 
cordingly proceeded  to  the  celebration  of  mass ;  but  he 
kindly  interfered  with  the  alcalde,  at  our  desire,  to  provide 
mules,  which  perhaps  no  other  man  in  Timothes  could  have 
accomplished  but  himself,  as  it  carried  the  mule-drivers 
from  the  festivity.  On  the  twenty-fifth  we  understood  the 
festivity  was  all  within  the  church ;  after  mass  it  was  this 
day  all  on  the  outside,  and  we,  unable  to  march,  were  dis- 
posed to  see  what  was  passing.  The  sides  of  the  square 
were  occupied  by  nine  o'clock,  and  parties  of  horsemen 
were  scouring  the  suburbs  in  all  directions ;  about  eleven 
the  whole  cavalcade  entered  the  square,  and  placed  them- 
selves in  a  single  rank  on  the  side  of  the  square  opposite  to 
us,  facing  inward;  several  standards  of  different  colours 
were  carried,  and  the  worthy  curate  was  seen  along  with 
the  alcalde  preparing  for  the  tournament ;  for  so  I  name  it, 
knowing  no  other  term  more  expressive.  The  whole  corps 
of  cavaliers  now  divided  into  two,  at  the  head  of  one  was 
the  curate,  the  other  was  led  by  the  alcalde,  a  rough,  hardy, 
soldier-like  man  of  sixty,  who  managed  a  spirited  horse  with 
admirable  address.  The  exercises  continued  till  one  o'clock, 
but  they  were  merely  repetitions  of  two  manoeuvres — the 
leaders  led  their  divisions  in  Indian  file  along  the  faces  of 
the  square,  the  first  that  reached  an  angle  wheeled  rapidly 
off  on  the  line  formed,  not  by  the  side,  but  the  oblique  or 
extreme  angle  of  the  square  ;  the  leader  of  the  second  exe- 
cuted the  same  evolution  on  the  opposite  extreme,  so  that 
each  in  passing  crossed  the  line  of  march  of  the  other,  and 
the  point  of  emulation  appeared  to  be,  who  should  most 
promptly  execute  the  manoeuvre,  and,  avoiding  the  side  of 
the  square,  project  himself  in  an  opposite  direction  to  that 
which  the  other  corps  had  taken.     The  speed  at  which  they 


'  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  287 

rode,  must  have  been  fatal  to  any  two  riders  who  should  come 
in  contact ;  but  no  accident  occurred,  nor  did  the  danger  ap- 
pear so  great,  when  the  expertness  of  the  riders  became  man- 
ifest. The  tambours  and  the  Indian  pipe  were  in  full  din 
during  the  whole  exercise — and  their  constancy  in  perform- 
ance was,  to  me,  as  remarkable  as  the  discord  appeared  un- 
meaning. 

We  dined  about  two  o'clock,  and  our  mules  arriving  we 
were  on  our  route  a  quarter  before  four,  and  reached  an  ob- 
scure place  called  Chacapo,  at  seven  o'clock  at  night,  a 
league  distant  from  La  Venta.  The  descent  from  the 
mountain  path  was  troublesome  and  dangerous ;  and  the 
presence  of  mind  of  our  Vincente  was  displayed  here  with 
great  effect ;  his  mule,  while  ambling  along  the  verge  of  a 
precipice  skirted  with  brush-wood,  made  a  sudden  trip, 
and  went  over  ;  Vincente  had  presence  of  mind  to  jump 
off,  and  hold  fast  by  the  bridle,  which,  being  of  stout  cow- 
hide, he  held  firm  till  the  mule  rolled  and  recovered  his  feet ; 
he  was  dragged  up  without  injury,  and  Vincent  mount- 
ed ;  and,  to  shew  he  was  not  afraid,  dashed  down  a  steep 
that  was  nearly  as  formidable.  The  height  we  had  ascend- 
ed, in  the  course  of  the  day,  was  indicated  by  the  severe 
cold  of  the  night ;  our  place  of  shelter  was,  however,  small 
and  close,  and  we  passed  a  rather  uncomfortable  night. 

On  the  twenty- seventh  we  moved  by  seven  o'clock  for 
Muchachees,  leaving  the  more  circuitous  route  by  La  Venta 
to  our  left,  and  ascended  the  second  mountain  at  eight 
o'clock,  and  the  first  paramo  at  one — not  a  house,  not  a  ves- 
tige of  human  labour  or  human  existence  was  to  be  seen 
beyond  our  own  company — the  cold  was  smarting,  and  we 
drew  for  heat  upon  our  blankets,  wearing  them  like  the 
panchos  or  roanas  of  Chile,  or  those  square  robes  with  a 
hole  in  the  centre,  through  which  the  head  is  thrust.  As  we 
ascended,  I  marked  several  plants  usually  found  in  northern 
regions.  The  vacciniiim  or  whortleberry  displayed  its  purple 
fruit,  and  myrtle-shaped  foliage.     I  had  been  informed  that 


288  VISIT  TO  COLOMJilA. 

Humboldt  had,  in  some  of  his  valuable  works,  alleged,  that 
the  family  of  the  Erica,  or  heath,  of  which  there  are  about 
three  hundred  species  in  Africa,  was  no  where  to  be  found 
in  America ;  I  have  sought  for  the  allegation  in  such  of 
his  works  as  were  to  be  found  in  Philadelphia,  but,  strange 
to  say,  there  is  no  complete  copy  of  his  works  in  the  city 
library,  nor  in  that  of  the  Philosophical  Society  ;  but  I  have 
found  the  allegation  in  two  recent  works,  and  possibly  upon 
Humboldt's  authority.  An  anonymous  work,  entitled  Con- 
versations on  Botany,  published  by  Longman  and  Co.  Lon- 
don, 1823,  says — "the  eighth  class,  Octandria,  contains  a 
very  numerous  and  beautiful  genus,  that  of  heaths,  Erica, 
which  is  confined  entirely  to  Europe  and  the  southern  parts 
of  Africa.  It  is  remarkable,  that  no  species  of  this  genus 
has  been  discovered  in  New  Holland,  Asia,  or  the  continent 
of  America  ;  nor  are  any  found  between  the  tropics.'* 

"  First  Steps  to  Botany  ;  by  Dr.  Drummond,"  published 
in  the  same  year  by  the  same  publishers,  says,  p.  278,  "  It 
has  been  already  stated,  that  no  species  of  heath  (Erica) 
has  been  hitherto  discovered  in  the  new  world." 

But  both  these  writers  (if  they  be  not  from  the  same  au- 
thor) are  mistaken.  I  am  well  acquainted  with  heath,  and 
have  frequently  slept  on  a  bed  of  it  with  great  satisfaction, 
and  could  not  be  mistaken.  I  have  not  seen  it  in  North 
America  nor  in  Asia,  though  I  have  been  informed  by  Cap- 
tain Turner,  that  it  is  abundant  in  Bootan,  and,  if  I  mistake 
not,  the  fact  is  stated  by  some  other  writer,  as  found  on  the 
lower  regions  of  the  Himalaya ;  but  I  can  speak  from  per- 
sonal knowledge,  as  to  its  natural  existence  in  Colombia, 
and  of  course  within  the  tropics.  Hounslow  heath  and 
others  are  named  from  the  predominacy  of  this  plant,  and 
of  several  species ;  it  is  also  called  ling  in  some  parts  of  Eng- 
land;  in  Scotland,  hether ;  in  Ireland,  brosnach;  and  it  is  the 
bruyere  of  France.  In  passing  the  paramo  of  Muchachecs, 
not  at  that  moment  thinking  of  the  sul)ject,  I  was  attracted 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  289 

with  a  fragrance  that  was  very  familiar  to  my  senses,  but 
which  I  could  not  designate,  until,  led  by  the  perfume,  I  dis- 
covered the  minute  purple-tufted  flower ;  but  was  much 
surprised  to  find,  instead  of  a  plant  usually  of  two  to  three 
feet, — a  tree ;  and,  having  a  pocket  rule,  I  dismounted,  and 
found  the  stem  4^^^  inches  diameter  at  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  and  the  height  of  the  plant  by  estimation  about  ten 
or  eleven  feet.  The  plant,  not  like  those  of  Devonshire  or 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  of  many  limbs  issuing  from  one 
root,  with  ill-shaped  branches  ;  the  tree  was  a  single  stem  ; 
but  the  bark  had  the  same  external  colour  and  interlaced 
figure,  as  the  plant  of  Europe  and  Africa,  which  in  relation 
to  this  are  dwarfs.  I  found  also  another  of  the  genus  with 
yellow  Jiowersy  but  not  of  the  same  stature,  in  every  other 
respect  the  figure  and  limbs  the  same,  and  a  new  and  deli- 
cate perfume  like  roses  blendid  with  jessamine.  I  found 
the  rosemary  wild  on  this  paramo,  but  of  less  fragrance  than 
that  which  is  cultivated  ;  and  wild  balm  w^ith  the  same  in- 
feriority of  scent.  Many  varieties  of  the  brambles  which 
bear  dew-berries  and  black-berries  are  found  in  the  middle 
regions  of  this  cold  paramo,  and  a  few  that  bear  no  fruit  on 
higher  elevations  ;  and  in  the  warmer  region  on  the  platform 
of  Merida,  I  have  seen  the  black- berry  bramble  bearing 
fruit  of  a  fine  rich  flavour. 

It  v/as  in  passing  this  paramo,  that  we  reached  a  position, 
of  which  we  had  heard  some  dismal  stories ;  such  as  the 
perishing  of  a  Spanish  force  of  two  thousand  men  by  cold; 
and  the  frequent  death  of  individuals,  who  had  dared  the  in- 
clemency of  this  hospitable  region.  The  point  was  designa- 
ted, by  our  alarmists,  as  exhibiting  many  hundred  figures  of 
the  cross,  of  miniature  dimensions,  formed  of  every  sort  of 
wood  or  chip,  that  the  piety  of  the  passenger  deemed  suffi- 
cient to  plant,  while  he  or  she  prayed  for  the  souls  of  those 
who  perished  there.  We  found  the  crosses  more  numerous, 
perhaps,  than  we  were  previously  advised  ;  the  mound  was 


290  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

such  as  nature  had  made  it,  and  the  absence  of  every  thing  that 
would  sanction  such  a  mortality,  as  that  of  two  thousand  men 
so  short  a  time  before,  who  could  at  least  travel  ten  or  twelve 
miles  backward  or  forward,  induced  me  to  treat  this  aftair  as 
an  exaggeration ;  some  unfortunate  individual,  otherwise 
disabled,  might  have  perished  there ;  and  it  was  not  more 
than  a  mile  from  the  scene  of  a  sharp  action,  in  which  there 
were  some  hundred  persons  killed  ;  but  I  have  no  concep- 
tion of  any  cold  that  could  occur  at  this  place,  competent  to 
effect  so  much  destruction  in  one  night.  But  I  rather  be- 
lieve, these  pious  tributes  belong  to  the  votaries  of  the  Vir- 
gin of  Chmchinquiray  to  one  of  whose  shrines  this  is  the 
high  road. 

The  custom  of  designating  some  points,  on  public  roads, 
by  religious  ceremonies  or  symbols,  has  prevailed  in  every 
part  of  ancient  Europe  and  Asia.  The  Parsees  lighted 
fires  at  cross-ways,  the  Hindus  erect  altars  to  the  creative 
power  at  cross-ways,  the  Romans  did  the  same  in  another 
form,  and  under  a  more  artificial  figure  j  the  Germans  and 
Saxons  had  similar  customs ;  the  Mahomedans  pursue  a 
more  useful  method  of  piety,  they  establish,  at  convenient  sta- 
tions, houses  of  reception  for  the  traveller  ;  and  in  other  coun- 
tries, the  traveller  passing  a  position  where  some  person  has 
been  murdered,  places  a  stone,  which  the  piety  of  successive 
passengers  raises  to  a  heap  ;  such  are  the  cairns  of  the  Bri- 
tish islands  ;  and  where  prayers  for  the  dead  are  enjoined. 
In  Colombia  the  substitute  for  mile  stones,  where  any  mea- 
surement is  made,  is  a  cross,  and  of  such  dimensions  in  some 
places,  as  to  be  large  enough  for  human  crucifixion.  We 
found  these  large  crosses  to  mark  the  route  for  many  leagues 
after  leaving  Tinaco.  But,  as  assassination  was  not  unfrcqucnt 
under  the  Spanish  regime,  the  custom  was  for  the  passenger 
to  offer  up  a  prayer  and  plant  a  small  cross  on  the  spot ;  the 
passenger,  whose  education  teaches  him  to  excuse  the  preju- 
dices which  uneducated  men,  or  men  educated  under  particu  - 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  291 

lar  circumstances  cannot  be  reproached  for,  contribute  their 
oblation  to  the  frailties  of  human  institution,  and  enjoy  harm- 
lessly their  own  opinions.  Had  I  not  been  previously  acquaint- 
ed with  this  rite,  I  should  have  been  apt  to  conclude  it  came 
along  with  the  Moorish  architecture  and  caravanserais j  but 
it  is  evident  that,  however  it  came  to  be  introduced,  it  was 
inseparable  from  prayers  for  the  dead,  and  was  adopted  by 
the  early  Christians,  who  adopted  many  others  of  the  pagan 
forms,  and  accommodated  them  to  their  own  disciplinary 
ritual.  I  suspect,  however,  and  it  is  my  own  conjecture, 
that  these  crosses,  set  up  in  such  numbers,  are  the  works  of 
those  pious  persons  who,  every  year,  flock  to  one  of  the 
shrines  of  the  Virgin  of  Chinchinquiray  whose  effigies  are 
multiplied  and  spread  among  the  Dominican  churches,  in 
those  regions,  and  of  which  some  account  will  be  given 
when  we  reach  Nimocon,  or  Enimacony  where  her  ladyship 
detained  us  for  a  night,  and  obliged  us  to  see  her  procession 
and  a  bull-fight. 

On  the  sides  of  this  and  other  paramos  farther  south,  a 
plant  grows  in  such  abundance  as  to  give  its  cream-coloured 
hue  to  the  surface  on  w^hich  it  flourishes.  I  have  lost  a  spe- 
cimen and  the  notes  made  on  seeing  it,  and  forgotten  its  po- 
pular name,  but  its  structure  is  of  peculiar  beauty.  The 
stem  is  short,  and  the  leaves  incline  outward,  showing  a 
surface  covered  with  a  long  yellow  coat,  which  has  the  feel 
of  fine  velvet,  the  leaves  are  from  seven  to  ten  inches  long, 
and  two  broad,  terminating  abruptly  round.  It  is  much 
used  for  cushions,  for  sophas,  and  for  beds,  which  are  to  be 
found  in  the  cold  regions  only,  where  we,  though  much 
preferring  the  hammock  for  repose,  were,  from  the  want 
of  a  pallet  or  blankets,  glad  to  occupy  such  beds.  The  cold 
was  so  unpleasant  in  descending  this  long  paramo,  that  I 
made  another  attempt  to  walk  down,  and  had  been  so  braced 
by  the  cold  that  I  made  considerable  way,  and  was  more 
than  a  mile  ahead  of  my  companions ;  having  lost  sight  of 


29S  VISIT    TO  COLOMBIA. 

them,  I  halted  under  the  rays  of  a  warm  sun  until  I  felt  un- 
easy at  their  delay ;  however,  they  came  in  sight ;  in  fact, 
the  only  inconvenience  Elizabeth  felt  in  the  journey  was  on 
this  occasion,  she  was  so  overcome  that  she  fainted,  her 
brother  was  fortunately  with  her,  and  as  we  had  some  wine 
in  our  trav*^lling  beatifctte,  and  what  with  her  good  spirits,  it 
wa">  over  in  a  few  moments.  It  was  the  last  time  she  at- 
tempted to  walk  down  a  cold  paramo,  and  the  security  and 
ease  of  her  mule  was  thenceforward  preferred.  We  were 
very  anxious  to  reach  Muchachees,  but  it  was  yet  two  leagues 
off,  and  the  night  dark,  and  we  determined  to  descend  to 
Chocopa^  a  short  distance  from  the  road,  where  we  obtained  a 
house,  made  a  good  fire,  and  had  some  small  but  excellent 
potatoes  boiled,  roasted,  and  fried,  with  an  excellent  corned 
tongue,  which  had  been  forgotten  until  sharp  appetites  re- 
called it,  and  we  completed,  with  a  bottle  of  good  Spanish 
wine,  a  rough  but  a  most  delicious  supper.  The  cold  of 
this  night  was  very  disagreeable,  and  we  contrived  to  make 
some  palatable  flip  with  aguardiente  and  panellas^  that  is 
cakes  of  sugar,  in  our  calabash  turtumas:  this  flip  served 
some  of  us  in  some  measure  instead  of  a  blanket.  Our  re- 
pose was  however  so  comfortless,  that  we  moved  at  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning  from  Chocopa,  and  at  six  we  enter- 
ed Muchachees,  where  we  were  surprized  to  find  a  deputy 
of  the  alcalde  looking  out  for  us.  The  first  alcalde  had  been 
obliged  to  be  absent  at  this  moment,  but  had  instructed  his 
deputy  to  bestow  on  us  every  attention,  and  provide  what- 
ever we  should  want.  We  were  indeed  compensated  by  his 
kindness  and  hospitality  in  a  very  comfortable  house,  for  our 
sufferings  on  the  paramo  and  the  preceding  night. 

When  some  leagues  distant  from  Muchachees,  we  were 
all  struck  by  the  change  of  colours  in  the  apparel  of  all  de- 
scriptions of  people,  young  and  old.  In  our  journey  hither- 
to, the  garments  of  both  sexes  were  light,  of  white  or  gay 
colours ;  coarse  cottons,  or  linens,  on  the  men  ;  muslins,  ca- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  293 

licoes,  or  silks,  on  the  women.  We  now  saw  no  one  in  light 
clothing ;  it  seemed  as  if  a  general  mourning  had  taken  place 
for  some  great  calamity;  the  females  were  uniformly  in 
black,  or  a  few  in  blue  petticoats,  and,  where  they  were 
not  black,  wore  a  black  broad  scarf  like  a  shawl ;  they  had 
their  heads  and  shoulders  covered  with  a  black  or  a  blue  cloth 
mantilla,  I  mentioned  my  surprize  at  this  change  to  the  al- 
calde, and  was  more  surprized  that  what  his  good  sense  ex- 
plained had  not  occurred  to  me.  He  said  that  the  garments 
and  fabrics  worn  in  the  warm  vallies,  would  not  resist  the 
cold,  and  dark  colours  were  best  adapted  to  garments  which 
do  not  wash  with  convenience,  nor  every  day  ;  that  comfort 
and  economy  dictated  the  habits  which  had  been  so  remark- 
able to  us,  only  because  suddenly  seen  after  being  among 
light  garments  so  long ;  indeed,  our  experience  during  the 
two  last  days  instructed  us  not  only  to  augment  our  own 
clothing  while  in  the  cold  regions,  but  to  relinquish  our  fa- 
vourite hammocks,  and  take  up  with  bedsteads  of  rude  work- 
manship, in  which  generally  an  ample  ox  hide,  stretched  and 
nailed  across,  served  the  purposes  of  a  sacking  bottom. 

The  second  alcalde,  in  accordance  with  the  wishes  of  his 
principal,  requested  us  not  to  have  any  thing  cooked  by  our 
own  people,  but  that  our  man  Pedro,  as  best  acquainted  with 
what  was  most  agreeable  to  us,  should  direct ;  and  it  was 
done  with  such  evident  kindness  and  desire  to  please,  that 
it  was  at  once  agreed  upon ;  a  most  excellent  supper  was  in- 
deed provided ;  there  could  be  no  better,  nor  better  cured 
corned  pork  of  that  size  we  denominate  a  shoat^  with  good  bro- 
coli,  and  fine  potatoes,  roast  and  fricaseed  poultry,  excellent 
^vheaten  rolls,  more  Canary  wine  than  we  could  consume,  and 
so  acceptable  that  it  was  not  necessary  "  to  think  it  was  Bur- 
gundy," though  it  cost  where  we  were  almost  as  much  as 
twelve  shillings  a  quart,  and  was  worth  more ;  for  what 
makes  worth  but  the  use  or  satisfaction  which  it  produces. 

Our  attendants  were  as  well  treated  as  ourselves,  and  our 


294  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

mules  were  supplied  not  only  with  abundance  of  green  bar- 
ley,  but  with  Indian  meal.  Our  night's  repose  was  comfort- 
able, as  blankets  were  abundant,  and  we  rose  about  seven 
o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  28th  December,  and  had 
scarcely  appeared  when  an  excellent  breakfast  of  both  coffee 
and  chocolate,  with  cakes  fresh  and  well  baked,  some  Bo- 
logna sausages  without  garlic,  and  some  very  excellent  fruit 
which  the  alcalde  had  sent  for  in  the  preceding  night  to  the 
lower  regions  ;  and  the  fine  young  man  greeted  us  on  our 
evident  recovery  from  the  previous  day's  fatigue,  with  such 
sociable  kindness,  as  merits  to  be  remembered,  at  least  I 
shall  not  forget  it  very  soon. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Hospitality. — Leave  Muchachees. — Meet  the  senior  alcalde — his  kindness. — Vil- 
lage of  Mucabichi. — Wheat  mountain — reaping — a  warmer  climate — cotton- 
trees — so;Tie  account  of. — Tabay — turbulent  Chama. — Plateau  of  Merida, — Go- 
vernor Pavedes — sumptuous  accommodation  and  entertainment — surprised  by 
an  alarm  o?  Jire,Jire — false  alarm — laughable — accounted  for. — Sierra  nevada 
of  Merida — its  ices  on  the  table, — give  zest  to  our  wine. — Military  gentle- 
men.— The  Spaniards  in  our  road — an  escort  ordered  for  us. — Visitors — their 
inquiries  gratified. — Temperature. — The  effects  of  the  Earthquake. — Popula- 
tion— several  sources  of  error  concerning  it. — Archbishop  Gongora. — Repre- 
sentative government. — Democracy  perverted. — Rivers  near  Merida. — Vin- 
cente  at  a  fandango — in  durance  vile. — A  refresco  before  parting,  on  the  30th 
December,  delays  us  to  one  o'clock. — Determined  to  sleep  at  Exido. 

OuK  repose  at  this  place  was  very  pleasing — we  were 
furnished  with  bedding-clothes  more  than  we  required  :  it 
was  with  some  repugnance  I  rose  at  seven  o'clock,  nor 
should  I  have  risen  till  an  hour  later,  had  not  the  kindness 
of  our  host  rendered  the  respect  of  waiting  on  him  a  matter 
of  propriety.     He  had  provided  us  not  only  with  as  good  a 


:ii 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  295 

breakfast  as  we  could  have  found  in  Philadelphia,  but  the 
chocolate  and  the  coffee  were  smoking  on  the  table.  We 
partook  of  the  repast  with  most  grateful  and  pleasant  feel- 
ings— and  we  afterwards  found,  that  he  had  placed  on  our 
mules  a  quantity  of  eggs,  and  a  pair  of  roasted  fowls,  with 
slices  of  nice  corned  pork,  carefully  and  neatly  wrapped  up. 

We  left  Muchachees  at  eight  o'clock,  and  had  proceeded 
but  a  few  miles  when  the  senior  alcalde  met  us,  in  full  gal- 
lop, on  his  return  ;  he  saluted  us  kindly,  prayed  us  to  return 
and  spend  at  least  a  day  at  his  house,  and  he  would  introduce 
to  us  some  company,  whom  we  should  be  as  much  pleased 
with  as  they  would  be  with  us.  We  declined  returning  at 
that  time,  and  expressed  our  grateful  sense  of  the  kindness 
with  which  his  faithful  representative  had  entertained  us. 
He  renewed  his  request  that  we  would  spend  a  few  days  with 
him,  and  I  was  obliged  to  assure  him  I  had  been  on  the 
road  already  twenty  days  longer  than  was  consistent  with  the 
affairs  I  had  in  charge.  This  was  nearly  the  last,  and  cer- 
tainly among  the  best  of  the  alcaldes  we  had  met ;  from  this 
point,  the  alcaldes,  with  a  few  exceptions,  became  only  se- 
condary among  our  hospitable  entertainers,  until  we  passed 
Tunja. 

We  passed  through  Mucabichi,  near  which,  entering  a 
narrow  pass  between  two  mountains,  of  very  steep  sides, 
.  we  saw  reapers  at  work,  in  a  position  that  was  entirely  new 
and  unheard  of  by  me.  The  houses  or  cottages,  which 
were  but  few,  stood  on  the  more  depressed  side  of  the  pass ; 
we  entered  one  of  those  cottages  to  procure  potatoes  or  milk, 
and  indulge  curiosity  ;  the  woman  of  the  house  spoke  to  her 
husband  from  the  door ;  he  stood  with  his  back  towards 
her,  on  the  steep  side  of  the  mountain,  where  he  was  reaping 
some  very  fine  wheat.  The  mountain  side  was  ranged  in 
steps,  running  level  along  in  front,  the  wheat  had  been  sown 
on  those  steps,  and  the  reaper  commencing  below,  cut  and 
left  the  cut  straw  to  a  small  boy  or  a  girl  to  be  tied  up  in 


296  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

sheaves ;  the  lower  step  being  cleared,  he  proceeded  to  tlic 
next  above,  and  so  in  succession  to  the  top.  The  sides  oi 
the  mountains  of  Mcrida  are  celebrated  for  their  fine  wheat, 
said  to  be  sufficient  to  supply  the  whole  republic,  were  there 
roads  to  transport  it.  But  seaports  are  too  distant,  where 
the  roads  are  either  impassable,  dangerous,  or  tedious  to 
travel,  or  where  there  are  no  roads  at  all.  Our  route  was 
now  a  gentle  descent,  the  presence  of  wheat  was  an  indica- 
tion of  a  temperate  climate ;  but  it  soon  became  warm,  as 
we  descended,  the  mountains  on  our  left  had  wound  off  to 
the  south-east,  and  that  on  our  right  was  now  less  elevated, 
and  its  base  was,  in  some  respects,  like  those  of  the  valley  of 
Aragua,  throwing  out  short  limbs  or  promontories,  standing 
out  more  or  less  advanced  from  the  main  ridge.  Wmding 
round  the  bluff  of  one  of  those  projections,  the  ground  be- 
came depressed  and  flat  on  our  left,  and  covered  here  and 
there  with  large  fragments  of  dispersed  rocks,  among  which 
trees  appeared,  bearing  a  flower  in  great  profusion,  that  gave 
it  the  appearance  of  what  is  commonly  called  the  Snowball, 
[Flydrangea  hortetisis-)  The  space  between  the  rocks  on  the 
kft,  and  the  bluff  on  the  right,  now  became  narrow,  and,  as 
the  passage  opened,  several  neat,  small  cottages  stood  before 
the  sun,  and  in  their  front  the  trees  in  blossom  :  a  little  girl, 
of  about  eight  or  ten,  skipt  across  the  road  as  we  were  ap- 
proaching, and  mounting,  with  the  agility  of  a  goat,  the 
rocks  beneath  those  trees,  which  grew  in  the  narrow  intervals 
that  separated  the  rocks.  The  tree  was  about  the  size  of  an 
ordinary  apple-tree,  but  with  an  erect  stem,  and  from  the 
surface  of  the  soil  to  the  lower  branches  about  five  feet ;  the 
extent  and  elevation  of  the  branches  varied ;  but  the  shape 
was  rather  inclined  to  that  of  the  thick  end  of  an  egg,  than  a 
sharper  cone ;  I  halted,  and  seeing  the  little  girl  with  two 
small  baskets  on  her  arm,  into  which  she  sorted  the  flowers 
she  picked,  I  halted  till  she  had  concluded,  and  followed  her 
across  the  road.     Her  baskets  were  filled,  and  the  flowers  she 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  297 

plucked  were  of  two  kinds,  one  was  filled  with  pods  of  cot- 
ton, already  ripe,  and  requiring  only  exposure  to  the  sun  to 
be  wrought  and  cleaned  ;  the  other  basket  contained  pods  not 
so  ripe,  but  which  were  laid  on  a  bed  of  clean  snow-white  cot- 
ton to  complete  its  ripening  by  the  sun.  The  little  girl,  and 
there  were  several  other  females,  placed  herself  on  her  mat, 
and  very  unconcernedly  continued  her  operations,  opening 
two  pods  at  the  same  time,  with  the  thumb,  and  over  the 
fore- finger  of  each  hand,  discharging  the  seed  into  a  basket 
placed  for  the  purpose,  and  forming  the  product  of  each  pod 
into  a  long  flat  layer,  upon  which  she  successively  laid  others ; 
and  when  the  pile  was  of  the  purposed  size  it  was  twisted 
into  a  knot-like  shape,  and  placed  among  others,  and  covered 
over.  Though  these  were  not  the  first  cotton-trees  I  had 
seen  on  the  route,  I  had  not  attended  to  them  so  circum- 
stantially as  on  this  occasion.  I  cannot  avoid  observing 
that  the  botanical  books  are  very  deficient  as  to  this  tree ; 
there  seems  to  be  a  doubt  entertained  in  some  of  them, 
that  cotton  grows  on  trees  as  large  as  the  ordinary  apple- 
tree,  because  the  plant  which  produces  cotton  in  Macedonia, 
and  in  the  United  States,  is  an  annual  plant.  The  cotton- 
tree,  I  make  no  doubt,  would  benefit  by  more  care  and  cul- 
tivation. But  as  it  is,  no  culture  is  applied,  the  tree  grows 
from  the  seed,  and  when  mature,  besides  two  crops  in  the 
year,  that  of  spring  and  fall,  it  is  a  perpetual  producer. 

Our  next  stage  brought  us  to  the  village  of  Tabay,  stand- 
ing on  a  sloping  plain,  which  lay  spread  below  us,  and  the 
turbulent  Chama  in  the  distance  on  our  left,  bounding  over 
rocks  and  frothing  with  its  noise,  as  it  tumbled  headlong  to 
south-west.  We  reached  Tabay  at  two  o'clock,  and  dined 
on  our  own  provisions,  and  as  the  atmosphere  was  warm,  did 
not  move  until  four  o'clock,  so  that  it  was  nearly  dusk  when 
we  reached  the  dry  bed  of  the  river  Mouhoon,  which  has 
its  source  in  the  west,  and  discharges  its  periodical  flood  in 
the  rainy  season  into  the  Chama.     The  lofty  platform  on 

38 


2D8  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

which  stands  the  city  of  Merida,  has  its  eastern  face  defined 
by  this  river,  and  in  order  to  reach  that  city,  it  is  necessary  tc 
pass  some  distance  up  the  Mouhoon  valley,  in  order  to  gain 
the  broad  path  which  is  cut  out  of  the  upright  bank,  that 
leads  b)'^  a  gradual  ascent  to  the  plateau  above.  We  gained 
this  elevation,  said  to  be  more  than  two  hundred  and  forty 
feet  above  the  plain  from  which  we  ascended.  The  sergeant 
proceeded  to  the  city  about  a  mile  distant,  and,  knowing  the 
place  had  a  governor  and  military  staff,  ^ve  proceeded  in  that 
direction.  Governor  Paredes  ordered  a  sumptuous  house  for 
our  reception,  the  apartments  were  well  lighted,  handsome 
beds  were  prepared  for  us  all ;  and  in  an  hour  after  our  arri- 
val, an  ample  table  was  covered  with  fine  damask  linen,  and 
a  supper  in  the  handsomest  style ;  the  governor's  servants 
waited  ;  his  butler  intimated  that  ^ve  should  oblige  the  gene- 
ral by  calling  for  any  wine  we  preferred.  An  aid  of  the  go- 
vernor spent  the  evening  and  supped  with  us,  and  delivered 
a  compliment  upon  our  safe  arrival  from  the  governor,  and 
that  he  would  wait  upon  us  next  day.  We  were  ready  for 
repose  at  ten. 

The  house  we  occupied  in  Merida  was  public  property, 
and  kept  in  better  condition  than  any  I  had  seen  since  we  left 
Valencia.  As  the  bed  was  comfortable,  and  I  felt  the  neces- 
sity of  rest,  I  took  no  heed  of  waking  early,  but  soon  after 
dawn,  I  was  suddenly  aroused  by  a  cry  of  ^^jire!  fire  I  fireP' 
as  distinctly  as  it  is  heard  in  Philadelphia.  I  started  up,  un- 
conscious for  the  instant  where  I  was,  and  it  was  only  on  go- 
ing to  a  window  which  opened  on  a  small  patio,  I  recollect- 
ed I  was  in  Merida ;  I  was  turning  about  in  the  same  un- 
heeding manner,  when  the  same  voice  screamed  "  Colonel 
Toddi  Colonel  Todd  P''  I  knew  the  colonel  must  by  that 
time  be  at  Bogota,  and  I  must  have  looked  rather  sheepish, 
when  I  found  myself  thus  surprized  by  a  parrot.  In  fact, 
Colonel  Todd,  on  his  route  to  Bogota,  lodged  in  the  same 
place  ;  Colonel  Lyster,  of  the  Colombian  army,  accompanied 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  299 

him ;  and  being  delayed  there  by  the  indisposition  of  Mr. 
Adams,  the  colonel's  secretary,  Lyster,  in  his  waggery,  had 
taught  the  parrot  those  words.  There  was  a  pair,  and  they 
were  certainly  amusing ;  their  colloquies,  kept  up  in  imita- 
tion of  two  scolding  women,  were  most  laughably  true  in 
word  and  spirit.  The  repose  of  Sunday  was  necessary  to 
me,  and,  having  made  a  perfect  change  of  apparel,  for  the 
climate  here  is  warm  as  at  Caracas,  I  amused  myself  vvith 
writing  letters  to  home  and  to  our  friends  at  Caracas  and 
elsewhere.  Our  morning  repast,  coffee  and  chocolate,  with 
fine  cream,  good  bread,  and,  what  I  preferred  to  all,  abun- 
dance of  exquisite  fruit.  At  two  o'clock  the  governor  was 
pleased  to  visit,  with  his  suite,  and  did  us  the  honour  of  din- 
ing with  us. 

From  the  window  of  the  dining  room,  directly  to  the 
south,  the  Sierra  Nevada^  of  Merida,  was  so  distinctly  be- 
fore us,  that  it  seemed  less  than  two  miles  distant :  the  snow 
is  never  absent  from  this  lofty  cluster ;  but,  at  the  moment  we 
saw  it,  a  greater  part  than  usual  of  the  south-west  face  was 
exposed,  and  its  black  soil  uncovered  ;  cliffs  were  distinctly 
visible  on  the  margin  of  the  snow,  made  distinct  by  the  sha- 
dows of  the  vertical  edges,  chasms  having  apparently  fallen, 
and  masses  rolled  lower  down  which  were  also  visible  ;  the 
governor  had  sent  mules  for  snow  the  preceding  evening, 
and  a  tray  full  of  it  gave  zest  to  some  excellent  wine,  which 
the  warm  temperature  of  the  city  made  desirable  and  delight- 
ful. The  computed  distance  of  the  white  caps  of  the  sierra  is 
five  miles  in  a  direct  line  ;  the  travelling  distance  to  the  line  of 
congelation  seven  miles.  The  town  major  of  Merida  was  anEng- 
lish  gentleman.  Major  Hodgkinson,  who  had  served  in  several 
campaigns,  was  very  communicative,  and  from  whom  we 
experienced  very  kind  attention ;  the  military  commandant 
of  the  province.  Colonel  Charles  Castelli,  a  native  of  Savoy; 
he  had  come  to  Merida  to  communicate  with  the  gene- 
ral on  the  movements  of  Morales ;  he  paid  us  a  visit,  and 


300  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

signified  that  the  governor  was  apprehensive  of  some  incon- 
venience to  us  on  the  road,  as  it  was  supposed  the  Spanish 
general  had  taken  a  position  on  the  only  route  over  which  we 
could  travel ;  that  if  wc  should  choose  to  remain  some  time 
it  would  be  agreeable  to  the  governor,  if  not,  an  escort  would 
be  provided  for  us,  and  he  "would  give  me  an  order  to  the 
commanding  officer  at  St.  Juan  de  Lagunillas,  to  furnish  the 
troops,  and  to  the  officers  in  succession,  till  wc  should  reach 
Pamplona,  which  he  kindly  presented  when  we  were  about 
to  depart ;  Colonel  Castelli  set  off  before  us  with  the  view 
of  calling  in  troops  to  unite  with  the  troops  further  south  in 
expelling  the  enemy  from  the  province. 

We  were  honoured  with  the  visits  of  several  distinguished 
persons,  many  of  the  secular  clergy,  whom  we  found  very 
earnestly  devoted  to  the  revolution,  and  solicitous  for  inform- 
ation concerning  the  United  States.  They  expressed  some 
surprise,  when  we  informed  them,  in  reply  to  their  inquiries, 
that  so  many  religious  sects  should  live  in  concord,  and  that 
the  clergy  wore  no  costume  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
laity  ;  that  the  Catholic  priests  dressed  like  the  priests  of 
other  sects ;  and  that  Congress,  having  chaplains,  selected 
them  without  discrimination  of  sects.  Catholic  and  Calvinist, 
Lutheran  and  Unitarian,  which  excited  great  surprise ;  and 
particularly  that  doctrinal  disputes  produced  no  serious  quar- 
rels, no  interference  of  the  public  authorities,  nor  ill-blood 
among  the  disputants,  more  than  any  civil  or  political  dis- 
cussion ;  and,  as  I  could  not  account  for  it  in  a  better  way, 
I  told  them  it  was  to  be  ascribed  to  the  representative  system, 
which,  being  founded  on  the  equality  of  men  in  society,  se- 
parated the  concerns  of  another  world  from  the  present ;  that 
by  leaving  every  man's  religious  opinions  to  be  accounted 
for  to  heaven,  men  were  more  tolerant  and  liberal,  because  the 
sectarian  opinions  of  one  man  did  not  render  his  elective  suf- 
frage of  more  or  less  consequence  than  that  of  another.  They 
were  as  much  surprised  at  an  anecdote  I  gave  them,  of  Dr. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  301 

Franklin  having  nominated,  and  obtained  the  appointment, 
from  the  Pope,  of  the  first  American  Catholic  bishop.  Some 
of  the  citizens  who  were  present,  expressed  their  admiration  of 
the  institutions  which  produced  so  much  concord,  with  en- 
thusiastic applause,  and  some  of  the  clergymen  concurred. 
One  of  them  said  to  another,  "  What  would  such  a  person 
think,  if  he  heard  this  ?"  Some  of  the  ladies  of  the  city  vi- 
sited my  daughter,  and  invited  her  to  spend  some  time  in 
Merida,  and  as  an  inducement  assured  her  she  would  find 
no  part  of  Colombia  so  beautiful  as  Merida,  nor  so  fine  a 
climate.  Indeed  the  thermometer  was  at  this  time  at  70  de- 
grees of  Fahrenheit,  which  is  lower  than  at  Caracas,  where 
78  was  the  medium,  as  68  was  the  medium  at  Bogota  while 
we  were  there. 

In  noticing  the  singular  appearance  of  the  banks  of  the 
Motatan,  I  made  allusion  to  the  elevated  plateau  of  Merida, 
and  its  steep  banks.  This  city  stands  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  margin  of  its  southern  side,  in  front  of  which 
the  turbulent  Chama  rolls  over  its  rough  bed,  at  the  foot  of 
the  snow-capt  Sierra,  its  course  south-west ;  the  streets  of 
the  city  cross  at  rectangles,  are  very  narrow,  but  streams  of 
pure  water  gush  along  the  centre  of  the  streets,  for  which 
well-conceived  channels  are  constructed,  of  two  feet  or  more 
wide,  over  which  flag-stones  are  laid  at  the  crossings ;  and 
the  city  has  a  cool  and  cleanly  appearance.  I  saw  no  houses 
higher  than  one  story  ;  and  the  ruins  of  the  earthquake  of 
1812  had  not  yet  been  redeemed,  nor  removed  only  from 
the  streets.  It  was  but  a  few  weeks  before  our  arrival,  that 
the  remains  of  the  bishop,  who,  with  his  congregation,  found 
a  grave  in  the  crumbled  earthen  walls  of  his  church,  were 
dug  out  for  a  religious  interment.  The  walls  are  of  the 
same  ingredient  as  elsewhere,  pita^  or  earth,  beaten  into  the 
shape  of  walls.  The  mortality  has  been  exaggerated  here 
as  well  as  at  Caracas ;  the  difference  between  the  present  state 
of  the  population  and  before  the  revolution  cannot  be  ascrib- 


302  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ed  to  the  carth(|uake  ;  though  zealots  adverse  to  the  revolu- 
tion have  laboured  to  make  the  impression  that  divine  ven- 
geance was  thus  indicated  against  the  revolt.  This  city  has 
suffered  much  from  the  depredations  of  the  Spaniards,  and  a 
great  portion  of  the  population  had  retired  to  the  south-east- 
ern and  southern  valleys,  and  to  the  west,  before  the  earth- 
quake occurred ;  and  this  diminution  of  numbers  by  the 
change  of  habitation  has  been  placed  to  the  loss  side  of  the 
earthquake.  I  must  observe  here,  that  I  have  endeavoured 
to  find  data  for  the  state  of  population  in  the  places  I  have 
passed  through,  but  it  is  not  in  such  passing  and  casual  en- 
quiries that  information  so  important  can  be  procured  that 
should  be  relied  upon.  The  state  of  society  has  been,  during 
the  revolution,  and  is  still  fluctuating,  and  must  continue  so 
for  some  time ;  under  the  monarchy  the  same  system  was 
pursued,  as  for  centuries  by  the  English,  till  the  close  of  the 
last  century,  in  Ireland  ;  the  inhabitants  were  studiously  kept 
in  ignorance  of  their  own  numbers,  and  taught  to  believe 
they  did  not  amount  to  one-third  of  their  actual  population. 
The  government  of  Spain  \vas  also  deceived  itself,  for  there 
were  local  interests  which  prevented  a  complete  knowledge. 
There  was  always  a  kind  of  organization  of  militia  under  the 
Spanish  rule ;  and  there  were  districts  over  whicli  captains 
were  placed,  whose  duty  it  was  to  make  returns  of  the  males 
between  fourteen  and  fifty  ;  and  it  was  upon  these  returns 
that  drafts  were  made  upon  an  exigency.  There  was  an  ex- 
treme disinclination  to  appear  on  those  returns,  and  the  cap- 
tains made  a  lucrative  advantage  of  it,  by  exacting  money 
for  not  entering  names  of  persons  who  were  able  to  pay  for 
being  omitted  on  the  returns ;  and  the  abuse  was  very  gene- 
ral. There  was  another  resort,  that  of  the  clergy  distributed 
in  parishes  or  missions ;  as  the  revenue  of  the  bishops  was 
derived  from  the  income  of  the  clergy,  the  clergy  who  had 
cures,  or  the  charge  of  the  souls  in  districts,  were  obliged 
to  make  returns  of  their  communicants,  as  well  as  of  those 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  303 

who  neglected  communion ;  had  these  returns  been  faithful- 
ly made,  they  would  have  been,  perhaps,  the  best  means,  as 
the  system  of  confessional  tickets  kept  the  parochial  popula- 
tion constantly  under  the  subjection  and  terror  of  its  pastor, 
AVhen  an  individual  went  to  confession  and  received  the 
sacrament,  a  ticket  was  given  ;  which  he  was  obliged,  under 
pain  of  spiritual  displeasure,  to  preserve  ;  it  was  dated,  and 
always  told  whether  the  individual  had  attended,  *'  at  least  at 
Easter,"  as  is  the  disciplinary  order.  The  pastor  also  visited 
his  flock  at  their  homes  to  administer  spiritual  comfort, 
and  he  never  failed  to  inquire  for  the  tickets  of  each  indi- 
vidual, and  to  exact  penance  on  defalcation ;  the  ticket  of 
the  last  year,  was,  at  the  confession,  changed  for  one  of  the 
new  year.  The  curates,  probably  thinking  that  they  were  as 
well  entitled  to  more  of  the  revenue  than  the  superior  was 
disposed  to  allow,  escaped  the  trouble  and  displeasure  of 
disputation,  by  omitting,  on  his  returns,  a  great  portion  of 
those  for  whose  souls  they  laboured  ;  and  thus  the  reports  of 
the  bishops,  which  they  were  called  to  make  to  the  arch-bish- 
ops, to  whom  they  were  suffragans,  were  also  reduced  in  the 
aggregate.  It  is  related  that  a  practice  of  some  pious  fe- 
males, in  the  article  of  tickets  of  confession,  sometimes 
made  the  returns  more  ample  than  they  really  were,  as  more 
than  one,  often  half  a  dozen  confessors  travelled  over  a  large 
district ;  those  old  ladies  having  confessed  to  their  pastor, 
under  their  own  names,  sometimes  made  a  confession  to 
others  of  the  itinerants,  under  the  names  of  others  with 
whom  they  had  previously  stipulated  for  the  purchase  of 
these  extra-confessional  testimonials.  As  this  practice  was 
confined  to  females  it  was  not  always  discovered,  but  the 
number  must  very  little  affect  the  reports  of  the  pastors. 
Another  difficulty  was  in  the  cabildos,  or  corporations,  the 
members  of  which  being  elected  by  suffrage,  obliged  their 
friends  by  omitting  their  names,  when  contributions  or  ser- 
vices were  in  question,  and  when  called  upon  for  the  popu- 


304  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

lation  of  their  districts  liad  an  interest  also  in  diminishing 
the  returns.  So  that,  though  Spain  was  deceived,  her  poh- 
cy  in  diminishing  numbers  was  favoured  even  by  the  frauds 
of  every  class  of  functionaries  who  were  competent  to  afford 
accurate  information.  Humboldt,  who  frankly  acknow- 
ledges that  his  statistics  of  population  were  derived  from 
official  papers,  thus  had  to  form  his  estimates  from  data  that 
were  in  their  very  inception  false ;  for  which  he  is  not  to  be 
censured,  because  there  were  no  other  means  to  obtain  even  an 
approximation.  The  justly  celebrated  archbishop  and  vice- 
roy, Antonio  Caballero  y  Gongara^  who  became  viceroy  in 
1783,  undertook  to  overcome  all  those  abuses,  and  not  only 
to  make  a  complete  survey  and  map  of  the  viceroyalty,  but 
to  accomphbh,  by  means  of  the  curates,  a  true  state  of  the 
population,  both  of  which  he  accomplished  ;  accident  placed 
a  duplicate  original  of  this  map  under  my  notice  several  years 
ago ;  for  the  convenience  of  transportation,  by  post,  it  was 
cut  into  parts  in  order  to  be  lent,  but  there  remains  only  that 
part  which  embraces  Guayana  and  Cumana  in  my  possession, 
the  parts  borrowed  have  never  been  returned,  and  are  very 
probably  lost.  The  population,  at  that  period,  was  much 
greater  than  what  Humboldt  has  allowed,  even  in  his  latest 
corrected  estimates,  in  which  he  acknowledges  the  territory 
occupied  by  Indian  tribes  had  been  omitted  in  his  former 
statements.  It  is  only  in  a  few  provinces  that  a  close  esti- 
mate has  ever  been  made  and  published  before  the  revolu- 
tion. 

The  new  form  of  government  is  calculated  to  assure  more 
faithful  returns.  The  citizen,  where  he  has  a  right  of  suf- 
frage, will  assert  it ;  it  is,  indeed,  true,  that  in  this  respect  the 
principle  of  filtration,  so  fatal  to  the  French  in  their  revolution, 
and  to  which,  in  my  opinion,  may  be  mainly  attributed  the 
failure  of  the  French  republic ;  because  there  was  no  respon- 
sibility directly  to  the  people ;  they  voted  only  for  a  new 
kind  of  aristocracy y  who  disregarded  the  wishes  of  those  who 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  305 

composed  the  people  ;  and  the  assemblies  thus  constituted, 
were  the  mere  instruments  of  conflicting  cabals,  which  were 
multiplied  in  every  department,  and  made  the  constituent 
assembly  itself  a  mere  engine  of  numerous  cabals.  The 
enemies  of  representative  government,  however,  have  so  lit- 
tle regard  for  facts,  and  are  so  disingenuous  or  feeble  mind- 
ed, as  to  ascribe  the  failure  of  the  French  republic  to  demo- 
cracy— when  the  real  principle  of  democracy,  that  is,  repre- 
sentation by  equal  and  free  suffi"age,  was  utterly  cast  out  in 
every  public  assembly  from  beginning  to  end : — ruin  fol- 
lowed as  an  inevitable  consequence,  and  must  follow  every- 
where when  free  universal  suffrage  is  wantonly  or  perfidiously 
abrogated  or  refused.  In  noticing  the  constitution  of  Co- 
lombia, I  shall,  perhaps,  speak  more  on  this  subject.  It  has 
come  in  here  as  an  incident  arising  in  conversation  connect- 
ed with  population. 

Four  rivers  mark  the  outline  of  the  plateau  on  which  Me- 
rida  stands  ;  this  plateau  forms  a  quadrilateral  parallelogram, 
or  lozenge,  of  which  the  Mohoon,  the  Chama,  the  Alvare- 
jes,  and  the  Montalvan,  form  the  sides.  On  the  south  front 
facing  the  Chama,  the  bed  of  the  river  exceeds  a  mile  and  a 
half,  but  in  the  dry  season  the  stream  plunges  along  the 
left  side  of  the  valley,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra,  in  a  south- 
west direction,  occupying  about  one-sixth  of  its  flooded 
bed ;  on  the  Merida  side,  the  face  of  the  bank  is  steep,  per- 
pendicular, and  composed  of  a  grey  earth,  reputed  to  be  two 
hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  dry  bed  of  the  river  ;  from 
the  town  there  is  a  gentle  slope  of  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to 
the  edge  of  this  steep  bank,  which  is  covered  with  rich  ver- 
dure to  the  very  acute  brink,  and  the  plain  generally  has  a  gra- 
dual inclination  in  the  direction  of  the  stream  of  the  Chama. 
One  of  the  phenomena  connected  with  the  earthquake  of  1812, 
is  a  crevice  on  the  face  of  this  steep  bank,  fronting  the  Chama ; 
it  is  a  simple  opening  of  the  edge  of  the  natural  rampart, 
and,  for  about  half  a  mile  inward,  is  wedge-shaped,  broad^ 

39 


306  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

and  open  at  the  summit,  closing  to  an  acute  point  below'. 
This  crevice  was  produced  by  a  single  shock  ;  the  rest  ol 
the  platform  retained  the  form  it  still  holds  ;  and,  considering 
the  materials  of  the  steep  bank,  it  appears  unaccountable  that 
the  earth  had  not  changed  its  vertical  form. 

Our  baggage  had  not  reached  us  the  night  of  our  arri- 
val at  Merida,  but  arrived  the  next  morning,  only  leaving 
Vincent  in  custody  of  the  alcalde  of  the  village  of  Tabay. 
I  dispatched  the  sergeant  to  inquire  concerning  him  ;  it  ap- 
peared that  he  had  detained  the  baggage  in  order  to  show  his 
Caracammi  style  of  dancing ;  and,  having  indulged  over- 
much in  guarapa,  his  gallantry  alarmed  some  of  the  paiaanos 
of  Tabay ;  who,  threatening  to  flog  him,  Vincent  drew  his 
sabre,  like  the  Knight  of  Mancha,  and  was  about  to  vindi- 
cate his  gallantry  in  presence  of  some  Seilorita  del  Toboso, 
when  the  alcalde  thought  fit  to  trip  up  his  heels  and  treat 
him  like  the  Avoful-faced  knight.  He  was  disarmed,  and 
placed  in  '*  durance  vile."  I  was  satisfied  Vincent  merited 
worse  than  he  got,  but  I  did  not  like  that  my  sword  should 
be  taken  and  kept,  though  it  were  through  my  servant.  I 
explained  the  matter  to  the  governor,  who  kindly  proposed 
to  let  Vincent  remain  a  short  time  in  custody,  and  that  the 
governor  would  send  the  sword   forward  after  me. 

Had  we  been  disposed  to  remain  a  month,  we  should  have 
gratified  these  hospitable  people,  particularly  the  worthy 
veteran  Paredes  :  we,  however,  lingered  on  in  conversation, 
on  the  morning  of  the  30th  December,  that  it  gave  these 
good  people  an  opportunity  to  introduce  a  refresco^  some 
fine  fruit  and  claret :  and  it  was  one  o'clock  before  we  could 
separate  ;  I  determined  to  go  as  far  as  Exido,  about  four- 
teen miles,  and  move  early  the  next  morning. 


sor 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Exldo  an  old  town — rich  country — a  civil  alcalde — depart  first  of  January — ap- 
prehensions and  false  news — La  Lag'uanillas — lake  of  natron — some  account  of 
—  Uroa — Mo — Chimo — luxuries — revenues — floods  of  the    Cordillera — move 

lorward — noisy    river — ^tremendous     path tarabita — Estanques — rumour — 

reach  Bayladores — silent  as  death. 

We  reached  Exido  at  five  o'clock,  and  were  surprized  to 
find  a  town  of  some  antiquity,  though  it  consisted  of  few 
streets  ;  we  entered  the  plaza,  which,  though  paved  and  spa- 
cious was  nearly  covered  by  the  verdure,  and  with  less  indus- 
try than  better  knowledge  proved  to  prevail  there  ;  the  houses 
also  were  principal!}^  of  two  stories,  and  the  inhabitants  all 
husbandmen.  The  town  had  the  appearance  of  a  gradual 
decay,  but,  like  others,  had  been  left  without  a  principal 
part  of  its  population,  who,  removing  first  for  a  temporary 
purpose,  had  many  of  them  taken  root  elsewhere  ;  but  the 
alcalde,  who  was  a  shrewd  experienced  man,  observed  that 
the  country  all  round  vv'as  too  fine  and  fertile  to  be  long  with- 
out inhabitants.  We  had  quarters  in  the  alcalde's  house,  and 
he  provided  us  with  some  of  the  finest  fruit  for  immediate  use, 
and  a  basket-full  to  carry  away.  The  first  of  January,  1823, 
we  moved  early,  the  alcalde  giving  us  the  news,  with  a  cau- 
tion, which  displayed  his  good  nature  and  his  apprehensions 
— it  was  that  Morales  had  entered  Bayladores,  a  town  only 
four  stages  distant  on  our  route,  and  this  proved  to  be  true. 
It  was  sufficiently  distant,  however,  not  to  give  us  imme- 
diate apprehensions,  and,  as  we  had  orders  for  an  escort  at 
the  next  post,  we  pushed  across  the  plain,  and  at  two  o'clock 
we  entered  San  Juan  de  Lagiianillas^  on  the  Rio  Gonzales, 
a  stream  tributary  to  the  Zulia.  There  was  a  picket  guard 
♦t  the  entrance  of  the  town,  under  charge  of  a  lieutenant,  to 


308  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

whom  we  presented  ourselves  with  an  enquiry  for  the  com- 
manding officer,  wlio  was  absent ;  and  after  more  than  ars 
hour's  delay,  he  not  returning,  we  sought  for  the  alcalde, 
who  gave  us  wretched  accommodations  in  his  pulpureia, 
where  we  hung  up  our  hammocks.  The  place  was  much 
crowded  with  fugitives  from  Maracaibo  and  other  contiguous 
places,  a  Stnor  Limares,  who  had  learned  something  about 
us,  insisted  on  our  partaking  of  dinner  with  him  ;  and  a  very 
good  entertainment  (for  the  place)  was  provided,  with  excel- 
lent tinto  wine.  Several  ladies,  fugitives,  with  their  children, 
were  in  this  village.  It  was  my  intention  to  visit  the  celebrated 
lake  of  natron,  which  is  contiguous  to  this  town,  but  it  was  not 
practicable  under  the  military  circumstances  of  the  country, 
and  we  excited  the  alcalde,  who  required  some  spirit  to  move 
himy  to  provide  mules,  which,  he  assured  us,  we  should  have 
a  la  manana,  which,  though  it  originally  signified  in  the  morn- 
ingf  sometimes  signifies  next  week,  and  very  often  never ; 
I  had  resort  to  the  commanding  officer,  who  did  not  put  it 
off  a  la  manana ;  the  officer  of  our  escort  waited  on  us  to 
know  the  hour  at  which  we  proposed  to  depart.  It  was 
arranged,  that  we  should  move  at  four  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  the  escort  an  hour  before  to  meet  us  at  a  point 
designated. 

The  town  of  St.  Juan  de  la  Laguanillas,  derives  its  name, 
St  John  of  the  little  lake,  from  a  remarkable  lake,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  town.  I  had  been  long  acquainted  with 
its  general  history,  as  a  source  of  singular  luxury,  in  several 
parts  of  Venezuela,  and  that,  during  the  Spanish  rule,  it  had 
been,  coeval  with  the  monopoly  of  tobacco,  also  monopo- 
lized  and  made  a  source  of  royal  revenue  ;  the  state  of  things 
in  relation  to  the  Spaniards,  the  circumstances  of  the  guard 
so  generously  provided  for  our  escort,  rendered  it  not  practi- 
cable ;  I  made  some  enquiries,  on  the  spot,  of  some  intelli- 
gent persons,  who  were  exiles  from  Maracaybo,  and  from 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  309 

the  officer  of  our  escort,  from  which,  and  the  account  given 
by  Palacios^  I  derive  what  I  shall  here  state. 

The  lake  is  of  an  oval  form,  better  than  four  hundred 
yards  long,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  broad.  On  the  east 
side  it  is  three  or  four  fathoms  deep  when  the  floods  from 
the  adjacent  mountains  come  down  ;  and,  although  the  eva- 
poration at  the  warm  season  is  considerable,  the  lake  is  never 
dry,  nor  so  much  diminished  as  would  be  deemed  probable. 
On  the.  west  side  it  is  ^shallow,  but  has  a  descent  gradually 
deeper  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards ;  and  it  is  on  this 
sloping  depth,  that  the  operation  of  collecting  the  Uroa,  or 
natron,  or  carbonate  of  soda  takes  place  ;  for  upon  chemical 
analysis  it  appears  that  this  substance  resembles  in  its  compo- 
sition the  natron  of  Egypt  and  of  Fezzan.  The  accounts 
verbally  given  do  not  exactly  agree  with  those  of  Palacios, 
but,  as  in  the  case  of  the  gold  washings,  which  will  be  noticed 
hereafter,  the  modes  of  collecting  the  Uroa  may  be  different 
with  different  persons.  I  shall,  however,  notice  both  as 
the  natural  products  of  those  countries  become  every  day 
objects  of  greater  interest,  and  will  continue  to  do  so. 

According  to  the  verbal  information,  the  uroa  is  found  in 
prismatic  crystals  less  than  an  inch  in  length,  and  not  of 
equ^l  thickness,  nor  equally  heavy  ;  I  could  not  learn  whe- 
ther the  sides  of  the  crystals  were  of  equal  numbers,  nor  in- 
deed of  how  many  sides,  only  that  they  were  angular,  and  ra- 
ther flat  than  uniform  in  their  thickness.  A  class  of  the  abori- 
gines, some  of  whom  were  at  the  alcalde's  posada, — a  very 
portly  muscular  race  of  men, — and  they  are  all  so  described  ; 
those  who  work  at  the  lake  are  called  Huragueras^  and  their 
labour  was  thus  described  :  they  carry  some  very  rude  imple- 
ments, such  as  a  stake,  shod  with  a  sharp  iron ;  a  sort  of 
scoop  or  shovel ;  some  hoes,  with  long  handles ;  and  a  sort 
of  little  boat  [pirauguita^)^  which  they  put  afloat  when  they 
go  to  work,  and  the  use  of  which  will  presently  be  seen. 
As  described  to  me,  the  workmen,  either  from  some  skill 


310  VISIT  TO  COLOMlilA. 

real  or  imagined,  select  a  space,  Avhich,  with  a  lew  coniradtb, 
they  mark  off  by  stakes  driven  into  the  bottom,  and  vvithni 
which  no  other  party  encroaches.  The  first  process  is  to  remove 
a  coat  of  mud,  wliich  is  drawn  inward,  and  conveyed  in 
the  piraugidtas  to  the  shore,  where  it  is  heaped  up  ;  this  l)e- 
ing  removed,  the  crystallized  natron  is  said  to  be  found  in  u 
hard  crust,  that  requires  force  to  break  it,  which  is  the 
purpose  of  the  iron-shod  stakes  ;  the  masses  thus  broken  are 
collected  and  taken  up,  and  in  like  manner  carried  to  the 
bank,  and  exposed  to  the  sun  till  the  working  hour  is  over, 
when  it  is  removed  into  houses  prepared  for  its  preservation. 

Under  the  royal  poAver  an  officer  was  appointed,  by  whose 
direction  the  operations  were  conducted ;  magazines  were 
provided  where  the  iiroa  was  deposited  under  his  direction, 
and  whence  it  w-as  distributed  to  government  depots  in 
the  provinces  where  it  was  in  demand.  At  that  period  the 
collection  took  place  only  every  second  year,  and  continued 
then  only  two  months.  Since  the  revolution,  the  royal  offi- 
cers disappeared,  and  private  individuals  have  appropriated 
the  product  to  their  own  emolument,  and  work  it  every  year 
at  the  fit  season. 

The  other  account  agrees  in  general  with  this,  but  is  con- 
fined to  the  royal  period.  At  that  time  the  Huragueras  were 
divided  into  squads  of  eight  or  ten,  and  staked  off  the  ground 
as  mentioned  in  the  preceding  account,  but  no  notice  is  taken 
of  the  mud  first  removed,  and  the  Huragueras  are  described 
as  diving  for  the  lumps  of  the  natron  which  they  disengage: 
the  operation  is  represented  as  very  pernicious  to  health,  and 
that  the  hair  of  the  Huragueras  becomes  reddish.  At  that 
period  the  product  of  the  two  months  in  two  years  averaged 
fifteen  hundred  weight ;  triple  the  quantity  has  been  collect- 
ed since  the  revolution,  and  it  has  been  worked  every  year. 
Under  the  royalty  Venezuela  consumed  the  whole  amount, 
it  being  first  dried  in  the  sun,  and  was  issued  at  a  real  the 
pound  (twelve  and  a  half  cents). 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  311 

The  uroa  was  connected  with  another  luxury  called  mo, 
prepared  from  tobacco.  A  heap  of  the  ripe  tobacco  leaves 
mixed  with  the  leaves  of  other  green  plants,  was  exposed  to 
fermentation,  and  in  that  state  yielded  by  compression  a  dark 
reddish  liquid,  the  exhalations  from  which  were  deleterious, 
and  the  flavour  very  acrid  or  pungent.  This  Hquid,  called 
a?ivir,  reduced  to  a  syrup,  was  called  ?no,  which  being  incor- 
porated in  the  proportions  of  one  ounce  of  nroa  dried,  roasted 
or  pulverized,  formed  what  was  called  t?io-dulce,  or  sweet  mo  ; 
if  the  proportion  of  uroa  to  mo  was  two  ounces  or  more  to 
the  pound,  then  it  was  called  ehimo. 

In  the  provinces  of  Maracaybo,  Varinas,  and  Caracas, 
these  different  kinds,  uroa,  mo,  mo-dulce,  and  chww,  were 
articles  of  luxury  in  very  considerable  demand,  and  were 
kept  in  boxes  of  horn  :  I  did  not  learn  how  the  various  kinds 
were  used,  only  that  some  people  took  a  small  quantity  from 
the  boxes,  and  used  it  as  men  chew  tobacco,  or  as  the  orien- 
tals chew  betel,  and  like  betel  it  is  a  powerful  stimulus  to  the 
nervous  system,  produces  copious  saliva,  and  a  light  delirium 
of  agreeable  sensation,  which  the  betel  also  certainly  does; 
I  had  no  opportunity  to  test  the  ??jo,  or  any  of  its  family,  and 
must  confess  myself  sceptical  on  this  point. 

In  1804,  six  years  before  the  revolution,  these  articles  be- 
ing comprehended  in  the  monopoly  of  tobacco,  altogether, 
after  defraying  all  charges,  yielded  700,000  dollars  to  the  re- 
venue ;  but  I  was  not  able  to  ascertain  how  much  of  this 
amount  belonged  to  the  natron  branch  of  the  revenue,  and 
the  republic  has  not  yet  brought  the  income  to  the  public 
treasury  ;  but  it  was  among  the  objects  of  finance  under  the 
cognizance  of  the  treasury,  and  of  a  committee  of  con- 
gress. The  government  of  Colombia  in  this,  as  in  many 
other  cases,  displays  its  discretion  and  moderation  ;  persons 
who  have  laid  pretensions  to  this  and  other  objects  upon  a 
mere  pragmatic  assumption,  sometimes  construe  the  revolu- 
tion as  a  measure  of  personal  aggrandizement,  and  trouble 


312  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

themselves  very  little,  if  at  all,  about  rights  or  social  princi- 
ples of  government ;  the  government  is  fully  aware  of  this, 
but  magnanimously  prefers  moderate  courses,  though  pos- 
sessed of  perfect  power  to  put  an  end  to  such  transgressions, 

Palacios  says,  that  the  environs  of  this  place,  and  the 
roads  near  Merida,  and  the  Albarrigas,  as  well  as  some 
mountains  adjacent,  have  a  peculiar  richness  of  verdure  ; 
and  that  certain  plants,  particularly  the  Rosa  de  Muerto^  are 
found  there ;  and  that  similar  appearances  and  products  mark 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  salt-quarries  of  Zipiquira  and  of 
Enimacon.  The  beauty  of  the  open  grounds  near  Merida, 
and  adjacent  to  La  Laguanillas,  is  unquestionable ;  but  I 
found  it  not  confined  to  particular  spots  there,  nor  at  Eni- 
macon. Zipiquira  itself,  in  the  distance,  looked  very  dreary 
to  me ;  but  the  plains  around  were  rich  in  verdure. 

The  Cordillera,  which  shows  its  eternal  snow  in  front  of 
Merida,  is  yet  visible  at  Laguanilla,  and  its  branches  seem 
here  detached  and  cut  into  groups  and  lofty  steeps.  The 
floods,  from  these  sublime  heights,  plunge  into  the  lower  re- 
gions on  both  sides  ;  those  of  the  north  side,  upon  which 
our  course  lay,  poured  out  the  turbulent  Chama,  which  was, 
in  this  neighbourhood,  swelled  with  the  waters  of  the  Gon- 
zales, and,  on  our  route,  the  roar  of  the  Chama,  like  the  rush 
of  a  great  cataract,  was  constantly  in  our  ears,  till  we  found 
it  forcing  its  roaring  torrent  over  tremendous  rocks,  which 
seemed  to  have  been  torn  from  the  mountains  by  its  rage  in 
the  valley  leading  to  Estanques.  The  floods  on  the  soutli 
side  of  Cordillera  are  more  numerous ;  they  tear  the  face  of 
the  Cordillera  into  vast  vertical  trenches,  cutting  its  sides 
across  at  short  distances,  and,  by  this  means,  compelling  the 
traveller  to  ascend  the  loftiest  grounds,  because  roads  along 
these  torn  sides  would  be  impracticable,  unless  upon  the  line 
of  their  direction  to  their  union  with  the  Apure  and  Casi- 
nare. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  313 

According  to  our  arrangement  we  were  mounted  at  four 
o'clock,  and  the  moon  being  very  bright,  we  rode  with  great 
pleasure  through  the  mazes  of  this  beautiful,  but  wild,  re- 
gion, when,  turning  the  point  of  a  tremendous  rock,  we 
were  surprised  with — "  Quien  vive  ?" — who  comes  there  ?  it 
was  the  challenge  of  the  rear  guard  of  our  escort,  we  there- 
fore answered  *'  Colombiano^''^  which  is  the  favourite  response ; 
paisanoy  answering  to  citizen  or  countryman^  is  also  usual, 
and  well  received.  Wc  soon  overtook  the  escort,  who  were 
here  all  infantry.  Our  appearance,  any  where  else,  would 
have  been  a  fine  subject  for  the  humorist.  But  we  were  all 
in  fine  spirits,  the  Spaniards  notwithstanding,  unaware  that  we 
were  approaching  by  much  the  most  hazardous  part  of  our 
road.  The  officer  in  command  of  the  escort  gave  us  advice 
how  to  act,  and  signified  that  there  was  a  long  pass  in  the 
mountain  in  which  only  one  could  move  at  a  time,  and  he 
must  send  his  men  forward,  so  as  not  to  be  interrupted  by 
persons  coming  in  the  opposite  direction.  The  sun  was 
beaming  on  the  tops  of  the  Sierra  as  we  reached  the  entrance 
of  the  valley  leading  towards  Estanques.  The  hoarse  roar  of 
the  Chama  had  been  heard,  but  yet  in  the  distance  ;  it  ran 
away  from  Merida  like  a  growling  bear, — here  it  made  an  up- 
roar that  stunned  us.  An  opening,  such  as  if  a  mountain  of 
rock  had  been  cleft  from  its  summit  to  its  base,  and  each 
summit  had  reclined  backward  without  moving  the  base,  had 
tumbled  stupendous  rocks  into  the  chasm,  under  and  over 
which  the  water  forced  its  way  with  a  tremendous  noise,  and 
forming  a  cascade,  poured  a  vast  volume  into  a  great  bason 
formed  by  its  own  power. 

The  face  of  the  lofty  plain  over  which  we  marched  breaks 
abruptly  across  the  valley  ;  on  the  right  side  a  lofty  mountain 
gave  a  savage  aspect  to  the  cast ;  and  quite  fresh,  as  if  it  had 
been  but  just  rent  from  its  side,  there  lay,  some  forty  roods 
across  the  valley,  the  immense  debris,  which  had  cast  itself 
down.  The  descent,  from  the  plain  we  stood  upon,  appeared 

40 


314  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

impracticable,  but  the  mules,  accustomed  to  the  route,  soon 
moved  to  a  gap  which  appeared  to  be  dug  out  of  the  deep 
side  of  the  precipice,  consisting  of  the  fragments  and  frac- 
tures of  a  kind  of  free-stone,  wrought  into  winding  lines  of 
descent  and  landings,  which  we  all  succeeded  in  descending 
safe.  At  the  bottom  a  vast  rock  spread  for  many  yards,  and 
extended  its  flat  surface  to  the  left,  beneath  which  edge  the 
bason,  into  which  the  Chama  discharged  its  torrent,  a  deep 
broad  volume  of  transparent  water  rushed  through  a  channel 
between  forty  and  fifty  feet  wide.  Across  this  sublime  cur- 
rent, and  thirty  feet  above  its  surface,  four  trees,  of  about 
seventy  or  eighty  feet  long,  were  laid,  the  small  and  large 
ends  alternate ;  upon  those  trees  a  bed  of  brush- wood  fag- 
gots was  laid  cross-wise  over  the  whole  extent,  and  gravel 
and  earth  had  been  laid  on  those  faggots,  and  beaten  into  an 
even  pathway.  This  was  our  only  way  of  passing,  and  it 
was  without  hand-rail  or  any  other  side  security.  Elizabeth, 
whose  confidence  in  her  mule  was  well  founded,  pushed  up 
to  the  bridge,  and  went  over  perfectly  unconcerned,  and  we 
all  followed,  though  I  must  confess  not  without  apprehen- 
sion ;  what  with  the  roar  of  the  waters,  the  rapid  race  of  the 
current  underneath,  through  which,  though  deep  and  rapid, 
the  coloured  pebbles  could  be  distinctly  seen,  the  height  and 
nakedness  of  the  kind  of  bridge,  and  the  trees,  giving  an 
elastic  action  to  the  tread  of  the  mule,  made  it  really  formid- 
able. No  accident  whatever  occurred ;  when  we  gained 
the  left  bank  we  procured  some  fresh  water,  and  halted  to 
refresh.  The  officer  of  the  escort  was  heard  to  whistle,  and 
presently  some  of  those  he  had  detached  in  advance  answer, 
ed  and  returned,  and  informed  us  the  pass  was  clear,  and 
that  we  should  find  them  at  the  other  extremity. 

We  commenced  our  ascent  of  the  Sierra,  over  a  tolera- 
ble mountain  pathway,  through  a  copse  or  scrubby  wood. 
The  Chama,  after  escaping  through  the  defile,  spread  its  wa- 
tf;rs  more  to  the  right  and  left,  and  had  wrought  a  deeper 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  315 

bed  beneath  the  steep,  whose  sides  we  were  now  ascend- 
ing gradually,  until  we  cleared  the  copse  : — the  broad  bed 
of  the  Chama,  which  it  occupies  in  flood  times,  was  now 
exposed,  covered  with  several  layers  of  loose  rounded  rock 
and  stone.  The  path  we  had  ascended  was  formed  on  the 
left  by  the  scarp  of  the  mountain,  out  of  which  it  was  exca- 
vated ;  and  on  the  right  by  the  dwarf  trees  ;  we  were  soon  at 
the  upper  extremity,  and  a  sort  of  shelf  cut  from  the  clayey 
side  of  the  Sierra,  sufficient  for  one  mule  to  pass,  was  our 
only  road.  The  side  of  the  mountain  has  been  here  and 
there  washed  into  ravines,  and  the  adjacent  sides  rounded 
into  those  ravines,  the  path  becomes  a  succession  of  winding 
curves,  each  terminating  in  the  sharp  indenting  of  the  ra- 
vines, and  renewing  a  new  projecting  curve.  The  sides  of 
the  rounded  mounds,  and  the  whole  range,  upon  which  the 
path-way  or  shelf  lies,  is  about  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet 
above  the  current  of  the  Chama,  and,  while  riding,  I  took 
from  the  bank,  on  my  left,  a  handful  of  the  soil,  and  shifting 
it  to  my  right,  extending  my  right  arm,  the  soil  fell  directly 
into  the  Chama.  To  stand  even  at  a  window,  at  so  great 
an  elevation,  sometimes  affects  the  head  ;  but  here  it  was  rid- 
den without  any  dizziness  or  disquietude  ;  the  mule  would 
sometimes  stoop  over  the  very  verge  of  the  steep  to  pluck 
some  wild  plant  growing  there.  But  this  ease  and  com- 
posure I  attribute  entirely  to  the  confidence  which  cannot 
but  be  the  consequence  of  security  in  the  mule,  after  some 
days  experience. 

As  our  ride  was  of  necessity  in  Indian  file,  and  very  slow, 
we  occupied  much  time  in  this  passage  ;  but  we  had  not  yet 
completed  it.  When  we  had  passed  the  last  curved  protru- 
sion of  the  Sierra,  we  had  to  descend  about  forty  yards,  and 
to  gain  a  rock  about  twenty  feet  from  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain shelf  path.  The  connexion  between  the  main  rock, 
was  a  narrow  ledge  which  seemed  to  be  a  large  slab  of  twen- 
ty.three  or  twenty-four  feet  in  length,  and  from  eleven  to 


316  VISIT  TO  COLOMUIA, 

twelve  inches  thick  ;  this  slab  stood  on  the  edge  in  about 
an  angle  of  45°  with  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  its  farther 
end  against  the  rock   we  had  to  reach :  from  the  side  of 
the  mountain  just  beyond  this  flat  rock,  and  covering  a  front 
larger  than  the  face  of  the  remote  rock,  a  torrent  plunged 
from  the  mountain,  the  action  of  which  appeared  to  have  per- 
forated the  rock  standing  on  the  edge,  and  an  opening,  which 
appeared  larger  than  the  dimensions  of  a  puncheon,  gave  a 
projecting  spout,   which  fell  in  a  beautiful  cascade  on  the 
north  side  of  the  main  rock,  while  the  rest  of  the  Chiquita 
that  descended  the  mountain,  found  its  way  into  the  Chama 
on  the  south  side.     We  had  to  pass  to  this  rock,  upon  this 
narrow  ledge,  above  this  formidable   sluice   and  cascade. 
The  officer,  in  charge  of  the  escort,  had  placed  himself  in  a 
position  which  enabled  him  to  see  us  approach  this  place, 
and  he  saw  us  pass  it  almost  without  an  emotion,  while  he 
acknowledged  that  he  trembled  for  our  safety  on  that  pas- 
sage.    I  alighted  and  measured  that  end  of  the  ledge  next 
to  the  rock   outside,  and  found  it  eleven  inches ;  it   was 
not,  however,  throughout  so  narrow,  but  it  ^vas  not  much 
broader  in  any  part.     After  the  congratulations  of  our  mili- 
tary companion,  we  moved  for  Estanques,  within  sight  was 
one  of  those  modes  of  passing  rivers  by  suspension,  which  is 
called  a  Tarabita.     There  are  many  forms ;  this  across  the 
Chama  was  a  mile  north-east  of  Estanques,   and  above  the 
point  where  the  river  abruptly  turns  oiF  at  a  right  angle 
with   its  previous  course,   and  travels  north  to  the  lake  of 
Maracaibo.     A  stout  rope   of  ox-hides  attached  to  a  very 
large  tree  on  the  right  bank,  was   carried  to  the  left  bank, 
and  attached  to  a  large  timber  artificially  fixed  in  the  ground, 
and  having  in  front  a  mass  of  rocks  piled  or  placed  as  a 
buttress  ;   two  rings  of  the  bejuco,  of  the  size  of  a  horse 
collar,  were  woven  loose  on  the  rope,  a  small  line  from  each 
side  was  attached  to  each  of  those  rings,  and  a  basket-like 
machine  was  slung  to  that  ring  which  was  on  the  side,  from 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  317 

which  the  passage  was  to  be  made,  the  passenger  placed  himself 
sitting  or  lying  down  in  this  suspended  basket,  and  at  a  signal 
from  the  other  side,  the  ring  was  drawn  along  the  rope  to 
the  opposite  side  ;  they  had  a  capstan-like  windlass,  on  the 
left  side,  which  was  to  tighten  the  main  rope,  which  is  suffi- 
ciently strong  to  bear  the  transportation  of  a  man  and  horse,  or 
two  or  three  persons  at  a  time.  Bolivar  crossed  a  division 
of  troops  at  this  Tarabita,  and  the  bridge  of  four  trees  thrown 
across  the  abyss,  where  the  Chama  enters  the  valley,  was 
constructed  under  his  direction,  the  Spaniards  having  de- 
stroyed a  Tarabita  that  stood  formerly  where  this  temporary 
bridge  of  trees  now  is. 

I  have  been  often  surprised  that  no  stand  was  made  at  this 
extraordinary  pass  by  either  party  during  the  war.     The 
Chama  is  not  to  be  waded  over,  as  its  stream  is  not  only 
deep  but  impetuous,  and  a  few  men  posted  at  either  end  of 
the  shelf-path  might  defy  twenty  times  their  number.     We 
reached  Estanques  before  noon,  and  resolved  to  sleep  there. 
This  Estanques  is  not  a  pubUc  town,  but  a  private  Hacien- 
da, or  cacao  estate,  and  the  steward,  in  charge  of  it,  conduct- 
ed us  to  the  best  apartment,  in  a  very  good  brick  two-story 
house.     There  was  a  range  of  huts,  and  some  scattered  in 
front  of  the  house,  and  it  struck  us  at  once  that,  although 
there  were  numerous  negro  women,  that  there  was  not  one 
man  to  be  seen,  and  there  were  no  other  inhabitants.     These 
poor  people  were  slaves,  and  not  embraced  by  the    law 
which  gave  immediate  emancipation  ;  the  men,  upon  joining 
the  public  standard,  became  immediately  soldiers ;  a  spright- 
ly girl,  who  offered  her  services,  with  some  fruit,  stated  that 
the  men  all  left  them  and  turned  soldiers,  and  she  spoke  it  as 
if  she  resented  it.    I  asked  why  she  did  not  go  too ;  she  said, 
she  wished  she  was  a  man,  and  she  would  not  belong  at  Es- 
tanques.     She  confessed  her  situation  there  had  nothing 
cruel  or  unfair,  but  then,  said  she,  one  would  like  to  see 
one's  father,  or  one's  brother — or — and  she  turned  suddenly 


318  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

round  and  disappeared,  leaving  the  idea  of — one's  sweetheart 
to  be  guessed  at — and  did  not  Nature  speak  for  her  ? 

We  now  made  our  mess  common  to  our  brother  soldier, 
which  before  we  had  no  opportunity  to  do.  The  stock  laid 
in  at  Exido  was  good  and  ample  ;  and  we  contrived  to  pur- 
chase here  for  the  use  of  the  soldiers  some  came  secoy  or  dry 
meat ;  and  we  added  to  our  own  cookery  some  sweet  yuccas 
and  apiosy  and  the  best  potatoes  we  had  yet  seen  in  Colom- 
bia. We  had  among  our  purchases  at  Exido  some  very  fine 
rice  in  a  neat  cloth  bag,  of  which  we  very  fortunately  got  the 
whole,  though  it  would  have  been  more  useful  between  Tu- 
cuyo  and  Merida.  The  common  hedge  trees  here  were 
orange,  and  loaded  with  delicious  fruit ;  we  ate  and  slept 
comfortably. 

On  the  3d  of  January,  at  half  past  five  in  the  morning,  wc 
moved,  the  escort  having  preceded  us  an  hour,  as  we  delayed 
to  have  coffee  and  chocolate,  with  some  rice  and  fruit,  and 
meant  to  carry  some  dressed  rice,  which,  with  sugar  and 
some  nutmegs,  mace,  or  cloves,  which  we  had,  wc  could  ap- 
pease the  appetite  without  halting.  Our  route  lay  through 
some  cane  brakes,  and  sandy -bottomed  rivulets  in  a  multi- 
tude of  windings,  where  no  stranger  would  expect  to  find  a 
road.  These  numerous  rills  have  their  sources  in  the  moun- 
tains whose  skirts  we  were  traversing,  and  contribute  to  the 
little  river  Estanques,  at  the  foot  of  the  Hacienda,  which, 
after  flowing  a  mile,  unites  in  the  stream  of  the  Chama.  We 
pursued  this  vegetable  labyrinth  for  more  than  three  hours, 
on  the  margin  of  the  Estanques  for  a  short  time,  then  cros- 
sing it  on  a  well. constructed  and  raised  platform  of  plank, 
serving  as  a  bridge,  with  a  good  firm  hand-rail  on  each  side, 
ascending  through  forests,  whose  sometimes  prostrate  trees 
arrested  our  progress  and  compelled  to  a  circuit.  At  four 
o'clock,  this  desultory  up  and  down  hill,  cool  moist  air,  and 
then  close  and  hot,  gave  us  a  relish  for  food  as  well  as  tem- 
porary rest ;  our  sergeant,  who  had  not  the  use  of  his  speech 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  319 

SO  much  since  we  had  the  escort,  now  coming  where  he 
knew  the  people  ; — the  officer,  with  a  trusty  sergeant  and  two 
men,  whom  he  caused  to  be  mounted  at  an  adjacent  Haci- 
enda, passed  in  advance  to  reconnoitre.  I  have  taken  no 
notice  of  the  neivs  which  every  passenger  on  the  road  could 
give  us,  as  to  what  Morales  had  done,  what  he  was  doing, 
and  what  he  meant  to  do ;  that  he  was,  according  to  a  dozen 
persons,  at  a  dozen  different  places  at  the  same  day.  Though 
all  these  stories  were  contradictory,  yet  some  one  of  them 
might  be  true ;  and  as,  among  other  places,  the  newsmon- 
gers said  he  had  possession  of  Bayladores,  and  it  was  our 
next  halting-place,  the  officer  had  very  judiciously  deter- 
mined to  reconnoitre,  and  the  sergeant  led  us  up  a  steep  as- 
cent, where  no  one  could  expect  to  find  a  human  habitation, 
but  it  led  into  a  very  fine  trapeche^  that  is,  a  sugar- mill  and 
plantation ;  here  we  had  some  refreshment,  and  among  other 
fruit  the  guava,  of  which  I  had  not  tasted  since  I  had  been 
in  Hindustan,  abundant  fine  oranges,  and  the  finest  pine-ap- 
ples I  had  ever  seen. 

We  had  rested  and  regained  our  elasticity  after  an  hour's 
stay,  and  having  the  river  Bayladores  on  our  left,  we  moved 
forward  at  half  past  twelve  o'clock,  much  gratified  by  the  ci- 
vility we  experienced,  and  which  the  people  did  not  deem 
enough  to  gratify  ourselves ;  they  caused  some  bundles  of 
young  sugar-cane  to  be  placed  in  charge  of  the  sergeant,  for 
all  our  mules.  At  half  past  three  we  saw  the  town  of  Bayla- 
dores, at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  side  we  were  descending, 
and  we  found  it  totallv  deserted. 


330 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Old  Bayladores,  account  of— deserted  by  inhabitants — no  alcalde — muleteers — 
fears  of  the  Godas — alcalde  appears — vidette  from  Colonel  Gomez — account 
of  the  Spanish  division — part  from  our  accomplished  officer  and  escort — Ce- 

bada beautiful  country  and  fine  cultivation — New  Bayladores — accept  a 

beckon  to  walk  in  from  a  venerable  planter — a  Frenchman — unites  the  nation- 
al politeness  with  Colombian  hospitality — perpetual  progression  of  crops — 
husbandry,  views  of — move  on — reports  on  the  road — cold  night — ascend  the 
paramo — fatiguing  route — met  by  a  detachment  of  cavalry  sent  to  escort  us — 
Colonel  Gomez  and  suite — fine  horses — reach  Gritja — alight  at  the  governor's 
— his  apprehensions — and  kindness — aspect  of  Gritja — zeal  and  effective  pro- 
tection afforded  by  the  colonel — kind  precautions  against  his  proposed  stra- 
tagem— and  its  success — depart  by  a  circuitous  route — escort  of  cavalry  and 
infantry — gain  the  high  road — the  Spaniards  abandon  their  outposts — move  in 
security — meet  Colonel  Gomez — success  of  his  stratagem — and  his  amusing 
vivacity  in  relation  to  it — anecdotes  of  him — El  Cobre  posthouse — mode  of 
business  and  accommodations  there — Oriental  resemblances  again — peons — 
mode  of  disseminating  information — Information  for  travellers  by  the  same 
route- 

Bayladores  is  not  a  compact  town  with  regular  or 
intersecting  streets,  like  towns  generally  in  Colombia ;  from 
the  hill  by  which  the  road  leads,  a  spacious  and  verdant 
sloping  plain  descends  to  the  south  a  good  broad  mile,  and 
in  some  places  more ;  the  river  of  the  name  meanders  in  a 
much  deeper  bed  with  a  steep  bank  on  the  north  side  and 
foot  of  the  Sierra,  which  is  washed  by  the  south  side  of  the 
ample  stream ;  the  aspect  of  the  mountain  being  north,  it 
appears  gloomy  as  it  is  elevated,  and  the  forests  by  which  it 
is  covered,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  have  the  aspect 
of  a  flat  bog  rather  than  of  trees  of  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  elevation.  It  is  not  a  uniform  front,  but 
shows  deep  recesses,  and  in  fact  numerous  gaps  or  open- . 
ings ;  it  was  in  this  direction  and  through  those  cHffs  and 
clefts  the  population  had  retired,  carrying  with  them  all  their 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  321 

live  and  dead  stock,  and  every  moveable  thingdt  The  town 
occupies  the  upper  or  northern  side  of  the  north  bank  ;  and 
the  houses  stand  detached,  but  presenting  their  fronts  in  a 
sort  of  semicircle  to  the  plain.  As  we  descended  towards  the 
plain  we  could  overlook  several  of  the  houses — but  the  si- 
lence of  the  grave  was  there — not  a  cow,  goat,  hog,  horse, 
mule,  nor  ass — the  cocks  and  hens,  the  turkeys  and  the  ducks, 
everywhere  else  so  noisy  and  numerous — had  emigrated 
too ;  all  appeared  to  have  died  or  gone  to  roost.  The 
houses,  as  we  came  in  front,  were  stockaded  in  a  most  ex- 
cellent military  style,  the  stakes  with  sharpened  angular 
points ;  well  laced  and  braced  together ;  advantage  was 
taken  of  the  pita  walls,  which  were  easily  perforated,  and 
loop-holes  for  musquetry  were  apparent  on  all  sides — but 
those  who  made  the  stockades  and  the  loop-holes,  were  not 
there — they  were,  God  knows  where,  in  the  mountains, 
looking  down,  perhaps,  for  the  enemy,  whom  they  were 
numerous  enough — if  they  were  cannibals — to  devour.  We 
took  possession  of  the  town-house,  for  we  looked  in  vain 
for  the  alcalde,  perhaps  he  thought  it  better  to  go  with  the 
people  than  to  be  taken  by  the  Spaniards.  The  hired  mu- 
leteers, who  had  gossipped  a  little  on  the  road  with  the 
people  at  the  sugar- mill,  manifested  some  alarm  at  the 
hyperbole  retailed  by  the  newsmakers — they  have  a  great 
deal  of  Orientalism  in  their  commonest  stories,  the  language 
favours  it  from  its  flexibility,  and  perhaps  the  climate  may 
quicken  the  imagination ;  they  talked  of  returning  imme- 
diately ;  but,  though  our  sense  of  danger  was  not  so  acute, 
we  were  not  disposed  to  be  left  without  any  means  of  move- 
ment, and,  at  my  suggestion,  the  officer  of  the  escort  in- 
formed them  that  they  could  not  depart  until  we  were  pro- 
vided with  fresh  mules ;  and  advised  them  to  go  in  search 
of  the  alcalde,  or  mules  for  hire,  to  replace  their  own,  and 
they  accordingly  proceeded,  and  next  day  found  the  alcalde. 
The  officer  of  the  escort,  who  was  expert  and  well  adapted 

41 


3SS  VISIT  TO  GOLOxMBIA. 

to  the  service,  had  confidential  soldiers,  whom  he  divested 
of  all  things  military,  and  dispatched  to  reconnoitre,  which 
they  executed  faithfully,  and  returned  the  next  day  also. 

The  alcalde  visited  us  with  an  aspect  most  unmagisterial 
and  dolorous,  and  even  while  he  addressed  us  seemed  to  look 
round  from  the  habit  of  fear,  and  while  he  laboured  to  con- 
ceal his  apprehensions,  only  betrayed  his  chicken- hearted- 
ness.  It  required  the  explosion  of  a  bomb  to  awaken  his 
senses;  and  his  first  information  was  that  he  knew  not 
where  to  procure  mules  for  us,  though  he  had  expected  us 
for  a  week ;  but  we  insisted  on  his  compliance  with  the  or- 
ders he  had  received,  which  our  commanding  officer  further 
enforced.  The  alcalde  believed  that  the  Spaniards  would 
return,  and  said  he  had  advices  to  that  effect ;  that  Colonel 
Gomez,  commandant  at  Gritja,  was  collecting  a  force,  and 
was  also  expected.  Our  officer's  information  was  different 
and  more  correct;  the  Spaniards,  under  Colonel  Valdez, 
had  taken  a  position  at  Las  Puentes,  beyond  Gritja,  and 
Colonel  Gomez  was  at  Gritja  with  a  corps  of  observation. 
We  were,  therefore,  obliged  to  wait  at  Bayladores  till  mules 
could  be  procured  ;  the  sergeant,  acquainted  with  the  coun- 
try, foraged  and  provided  ample  subsistence;  we  em- 
ployed the  time  of  delay  in  changing  our  linen,  and  new 
arranging  our  baggage  against  our  departure.  The  sergeant 
procured  fruit,  poultry,  and  other  things,  and  we  were  well 
rested  and  fared  tolerably  by  the  time  the  alcalde  arrived 
with  the  alcalde  of  New  Bayladores,  a  man  of  spirit  and 
character :  a  suite  of  mules  cam.e  after  them.  We  had, 
however,  so  arranged  our  baggage  during  our  stay,  that  we 
had  provided  places  to  conceal  our  trunks  in  the  event  of 
the  approach  of  the  enemy,  and  I  had  passed  the  river  and 
made  myself  acquainted  with  the  paths  to  the  mountain  more 
than  two  miles  on  the  other  side.  It  was,  however,  better  as  it 
turned  out.  The  road  was  clear,  and  a  vidette,  from  Colonel 
Gomez,  brought  us  intimation  that  the  road  was  open  through 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  323 

the  forest  of  wild  boars,  and  all  the  way  to  Gritja,  and  an 
escort  of  cavalry  would  meet  us  at  a  position  designated,  and 
conduct  us  across  the  paramo.  We  were  now  to  separate 
from  our  agreeable  fellow-traveller  and  his  escort,  who  as- 
sured us  he  would  with  pleasure  accompany  us  to  Bogota 
if  his  orders  permitted,  very  kindly  took  leave,  and  we  parted 
impressed  with  grateful  sentiments  and  merited  esteem ; 
his  conduct  was  perfectly  the  soldier ;  gentlemanly,  amiable, 
and  cool ;  his  understanding  cultivated  ;  he  was  a  soldier 
from  sentiment,  and  acquainted  with  his  profession  ;  but 
was  anxious  that  peace  should  enable  him  to  return  to  the 
cultivation  of  a  small  estate  he  possessed,  and — I  suspected  a 
more  tender  motive.  We  had  not  been  able  to  account  for 
the  change  of  conduct  and  deportment  in  the  alcalde  till  we 
were  about  to  separate  ;  the  officer  informed  us  that  the  vi- 
dette  of  Colonel  Gomez  had  rebuked  him  for  detaining  us, 
and  that  it  was  this  which  had  given  him  so  much  sudden 
alacrity  ;  the  mules  were  at  our  door  earlier  than  we  required 
them ;  eggs  and  poultry,  fruit  and  forage,  for  which  he 
would  receive  no  payment,  but  supplied  in  abundance  ;  in  the 
gratification  of  being  able  to  move  secure,  and,  having  no- 
thing to  desire  now,  we  soon  forgot  the  alcalde  of  Old  Bay- 
ladores.  We  moved  forward,  at  ten  o'clock,  and  were  met 
on  the  way  by  the  alcalde  of  Cebada,  who  also  came  to  escort 
us.  We  ascended  the  mountain  on  the  right  of  the  valley, 
and  had  a  delightful  day  and  charming  prospect  for  many 
leagues. 

The  country  through  which  we  were  now  passing  recalled 
to  mind,  from  their  resemblance  in  verdure  and  cultivation, 
those  of  Chester,  Lancaster,  and  Montgomery  counties, 
Pennsylvania,  in  July  ;  the  gradual  slopes,  and  rich  fields  of 
grain;  fences  indeed  were  wanting  to  complete  the  resem- 
blance; but  the  waving  barley  and  wheat  looked  as  lively 
and  luxuriant ;  and  the  maize  was  rich  and  beautiful.  The 
points  of  sight  were  yet  too  remote  for  distinctness,  the  pir- 


324  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

ture  was  a  mass,  in  which  the  parts  were  not  minutely  dis- 
cernible, but  by  the  tints,  and  the  occasional  motion  of  a 
very  gentle  breeze,  which  was  very  acceptably  shared  with 
us  in  our  progress. 

We  reached  New  Bayladores  before  it  was  noon ;  its  ap- 
pearance had  newness  and  neatness  in  the  external,  and  pros- 
perity appeared  all  around  it ;  the  houses  were  all  white- 
washed, and  the  tiles  all  appeared  as  new  as  if  the  whole  had 
been  just  built;  which  appeared  the  more  remarkable  from 
a  comparison  with  the  older  town,  and  the  recent  presence 
of  the  Spaniards,  who  rarely  spared  any  thing  that  appeared 
to  prosper.  I  noticed  the  contrast  to  the  alcalde,  who  only  re- 
plied  by  that  universal  substitute  for  a  speech,  a  silent  shake 
of  the  head  ;  I  did  not  know  whether  I  should  take  it  in  Sir 
Christopher  Hattori's  sense,  in  the  Critic,  or  in  our  Indian 
interpretation — but  concluded  that  it  meant  to  say  prosperity 
and  neatness  was  the  usual  effect  of  industry  judiciously 
pursued,  and  a  good  police  ;  perhaps  he  meant  more  than  it 
was  prudent  to  speak,  for  he  shook  hands  with  us  very  cor- 
dially when  we  set  forward,  the  sergeant  once  more,  with 
his  grenadier's  cap  and  his  lance,  leading  the  van. 

About  noon  a  well-looking  stone  house,  of  two  stories, 
with  verandahs  above,  invited  our  attention,  and  the  venera- 
ble grey-haired  owner  beckoned  an  invitation  to  turn  our 
mules  inward,  and,  as  the  sun  shone  pretty  warm,  we  com- 
plied, and  our  mules  in  a  few  minutes  were  wallowing  in 
good  fodder.  The  old  gentleman  conducted  us  to  the  ve- 
randaii  in  front,  where  I  had  my  hammock  slung  in  such  a 
position  as  to  overlook  the  valley  and  the  mountains  to  a  con- 
siderable distance ;  the  scite  was  happily  selected ;  our  venera- 
ble host  was  a  Frenchman,  above  seventy  ;  he  entered  inte 
discourse  with  the  affability  of  his  own  country,  and  accom- 
panied by  the  taste  and  hospitality  of  Colombia  ;  fine  sponge- 
cake, no  better  could  be  had  in  Paris,  cream-cheese,  fresh 
and  well  made,  as  if  from  Philadelphia ;  mead,  not  to  be  ex- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  335 

celled  any  where,  brisk  as  champaign ;  and  abundance  of 
sweetmeats  and  fruit,  were  handed  round  repeatedly.  We 
had  directed  some  fowls  to  be  fricaseed,  but  the  cochiero  had 
loitered  and  talked,  and  we  looked  at  the  pictures  around  us  so 
long,  that  it  became  too  late  to  wait  for  them ;  it  was  the  fault 
of  our  own  servants,  who  had,  naturally  enough,  attended  to 
good  things  present,  rather  than  to  the  preparation,  which, 
to  be  sure,  was  unnecessary,  and  I  left  them  to  follow,  pur- 
suing my  journey.  This  old  gentleman  had  been  settled  in 
that  position  more  than  forty  years  ;  his  manners,  and  his 
example,  to  the  cultivators,  and  his  neutrality,  in  every  vi- 
cissitude, had  saved  him  from  entire  ruin,  and  the  earth  and 
the  climate,  which,  never  ceasing  from  production,  made 
him  rich,  who  spent  very  little  compared  with  his  income. 

While  resting  on  my  hammock  I  could  discern  the  pro- 
gress of  cultivation,  which  was  more  contiguous  than  in  the 
position  from  which  the  fields  were  first  descried  ;  and,  upon 
particular  inquiry,  I  found  that  every  process  of  agriculture 
was  in  operation  at  the  same  time — at  the  east  extremity  the 
mules  were  bearing  off  the  harvests  to  the  depots  behind  the 
dwelling ;  stacks  were  on  the  patch  of  ten  or  twenty  acres, 
next  adjoining — another  patch  displayed  the  rows  of  sheaves, 
in  another  the  reapers  were  at  work,  and  the  young  people 
tying  them — farther  on,  the  golden  harvest  tempted  the 
reaper — and  still  farther  west,  the  waving  grain  had  yet  its 
tinge  of  pale  green — and  farther  still  the  tint  was  more  deep, 
it  was  the  grain  in  the  blade — another  patch  appeared  to 
show  like  green  threads  upon  a  cake  of  chocolate  ;  and  next 
appeared  the  paisaiio  scattering  the  grain,  followed  by  a  range 
of  mules  abreast,  with  that  harrow  which  instinctive  reason 
provides,  in  the  thorny  brambles  of  the  thicket ;  last  patch  of 
all,  the  ploughman  with  his  rude  formed  plough,  though 
then  too  distant  to  be  particularly  described — this  was  the 
rotation  of  crops — and  upon  a  soil  which  never  had  any 
other  manure  than  the  rains  and  dews  of  heaven  and  its  own 


326  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

natural  composition  ;  the  progression  unceasing  and  unin- 
terrupted ;  unless  the  hand  of  man  forgot  or  neglected  to  do 
his  duty.  But  the  want  of  roads  to  transport  those  rich  har- 
vests rendered  their  mercantile  value  small — wheat  could  be 
had  here  for  about  a  real  and  a  half,  or  fifteen  cents  the 
bushel,  barley  for  ten  ;  pease,  vetches,  and  beans,  for  a  few 
cents.  The  people  on  the  road,  as  we  advanced,  were  not 
yet  apprised  that  the  Spaniards  had  moved  to  the  borders  of 
the  Cinegay  and  we  were  so  sure  of  a  contradictory  account 
from  every  successive  person  and  dwelling,  that  we  made  it 
a  matter  of  amusement  to  send  the  sergeant  and  Vincent  to 
make  enquiries,  and  then  quieted  their  apprehensions  by 
stating  the  direct  information  we  possessed ;  among  other 
things  we  were  told  that  no  person  was  permitted  to  proceed 
to  Gritja— that  the  people  at  Gritja  had  declared  for  the  royal 
cause,  and  hoisted  the  royal  standard,  delivering  up  their 
governor,  who  was  in  the  Spanish  camp  :  there  was  one  part 
of  this  story  true,  but  it  was  not  a  volunteer  business — a 
brother-in-law  of  the  civil  governor  of  Gritja,  who  was  a 
steady  royalist,  had  formed  a  stratagem, and  succeeded  in  seiz- 
ing and  carrying  off  his  republican  brother-in-law,  the  gover- 
nor I  there  had  been  a  familv  dispute  upon  some  division  of 
property  by  marriage,  and  the  royal  partizan  now  settled  the 
lawsuit,  by  demanding  forty  thousand  dollars  as  a  ransom 
for  his  prisoner,  which  the  governor  himself  afterwards  told 
us  he  had  paid,  our  quarters  being  with  him  on  our  arrival 
at  Gritja. 

At  half  past  five  we  reached  a  farm-house,  where  we  were 
received  with  civility,  but  not  without  apprehensions,  which 
were  soon  dissipated  by  our  discourse  ;  the  place  was  at  the 
foot  of  a  paramo,  the  air  cold  and  biting,  and  our  appetites 
pretty  keen  ;  we  procured  some  potatoes,  had  some  chickens 
fricaseed,  and  some  good  chocolate  ;  all  the  doors  and  win- 
dows were  closed  as  much  as  possible,  but  the  night  was 
very  uncomfortable  with  all  the  clothing  we  could  apply. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  327 

rhe  valley  at  this  place,  though  deep  in  relation  to  the  pa- 
ramo at  the  foot  of  which  it  extends,  is  about  forty  leagues 
from  north  to  south  and  south-south-west,  is  widest  at  the 
north,  and  narrow  to  the  foot  of  the  paramo,  from  which  we 
were  not  more  than  twenty  minutes  ride  distant.  We  rose 
late,  in  consequence  of  our  bad  night's  rest,  and  did  not  get  in 
motion  till  ten  o'clock. 

On  the  4th,  being  Sunday,  we  travelled  up  the  paramo, 
on  which  there  was  the  first  appearance  of  any  thing  like  a 
really  easy  road  since  we  left  the  valley  of  Aragua;  we  reach- 
ed the  summit  at  noon,  and  commenced  a  tedious  and  ha- 
zardous descent,  from  the  steepness  of  the  mountain  and  the 
badness  of  the  footway,  winding  through  wilds,  and  shut  out 
from  sunshine  by  the  closeness  and  elevation  of  the  forest 
trees  on  the  lower  range  of  the  mountain  ;  pools  and  quag- 
mires difficult  to  pass  were  constantly  retarding  our  journey, 
and  tiring  our  mules  and  ourselves. 

We  were  soon  met  by  a  party  of  cavalry,  under  a  lieute- 
nant, sent  by  Colonel  Gomez  to  meet  us,  and,  a  few  miles 
farther  in  advance,  the  colonel  himself,  of  whom  we  had 
heard  much,  with  a  suite  of  six  young  officers,  in  gay,  gau- 
dy-coloured, fancy  military  dresses,  which  had  no  other 
uniformity  than  that  they  were  sleeve  jackets  and  loose  pan- 
taloons,  and  Italian  caps;  but  of  all  colours  of  the  rainbow  : 
bluejackets  with  yellow  pantaloons,  yellow  jackets  Avith  red 
pantaloons,  and  jackets  with  green,  white,  red  or  yellow  ; 
the  caps  were  neat  and  fanciful,  but  alike  varied  as  their  fea- 
thers were  contrasted ;  they  rode  the  best  horses  I  had  hi- 
therto seen,  about  sixteen  hands  high,  with  handsome  short 
heads,  neat  short  swelling  ears,  large,  bright,  prominent  eyes, 
a  well-formed,  full,  and  robust  arching  neck,  broad  breast,  a 
tapering  leg  and  thin  shank,  clean  fetlocks,  neat  grey  hoofs, 
rounded  haunches  and  buttocks,  and  tails  that  stood  out  in  a 
bunch,  and  spread  like  the  water  from  a  fountain  almost  to 
the  ground,  and  with  which  they  could  be  eifectually  pro- 


328  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  m 

tected  from  winged  insects  if  there  were  any,  and,  being  thus 
unmutilated,  were  thcreCore  spirited  but  fine- tempered. 

It  was  lialf  after  four  when  we  came  in  sight  of  Gritja ; 
we  did  not  enter  the  town,  which  was  in  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  but  passed  to  the  left  on  the  side  of  die  sierra,  and 
afighted  in  the  patio  of  the  civil  governor's  house,  who  now 
came  out  to  receive  us,  and  who  afforded  us  every  civility. 
This  was  the  gentleman  who  had  been  ransomed  only  two 
days  before ;  he  told  us  his  story  with  natural  pathos,  and 
indicated  very  sensibly  that  he  was  not  perfecdy  confident 
of  being  yet  secure ;  his  family  had  fled  to  the  interior 
mountains,  with  their  cattle,  and  all  they  could  carry.  A 
pair  of  horses  stood  always  saddled  in  the  patio,  ready  to 
prevent  this  Spanish  brother-in-law  from  partitioning  the  pro- 
perty a  second  time. 

A  good  plain  dinner  of  better  than  common  dried  beef, 
with  potatoes  and  onions,  seasoned  with  spice,  made  an  ex- 
cellent Irish  stew — white  wheaten  bread,  good  vegetable 
greens,  sallads,  and  fruit — some  guarapa  prepared  by  domes- 
tics for  private  use,  much  superior  to  that  of  the  posadas ; 
and,  as  the  Spaniards  had  carried  off  all  his  wine,  the  gover- 
nor, who  had  some  careful  servants,  had  preserved  a  few  fine 
cases  of  liquor,  from  which  he  brought  his  garde-de-vin  of 
aguardiente ;  I  took  some  with  fine  spring  water.  Though 
we  were  not  in  the  town  of  Gritja,  we  could,  as  the  sailors 
say,  "  chuck  a  biscuit  into  it"  from  the  rear  of  the  gover- 
nor's house.  The  town,  which  lay  directly  beneath  our 
view,  perhaps  three  hundred  yards  below  us ;  our  position 
immediately  over  the  south-east  angle,  the  lines  of  the  streets 
being  north  and  south,  and  crossing  east  and  west  a  spacious 
square  in  the  centre,  about  eight  streets  in  the  breadth  and 
ten  or  twelve  in  the  length.  The  whole  town  handsomely 
tiled  and  of  one  story  high — a  handsome  church  stood,  as 
usual,  conspicuously  above  the  rest.  But  the  silence  of 
death  prevailed  in  the   town,   not  a  living  thing  was  to  br 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  329 

seen,  the  whole  population,  reputed  to  be  about  nine  thou- 
sand, had  fled  to  the  Paramos  in  the  south,  which,  from  our 
position,  appeared  piled  one  over  the  other  on  our  left  till 
lost  in  the  clouds,  or  diminished  into  narrow  grey  lines  of 
equivocal  light. 

The  colonel,  whose  animal  spirits  were  of  a  very  different 
temperament  from  the  poor  governor,  who  had  laughed  and 
chatted  with  us  on  the  way,  on  our  arrival  had  resigned  me 
to  the  aW  authority,  while  he,  and  his  fine  young  men,  be- 
stowed their  attentions  on  Lieutenant  Buche  and  his  sister; 
and,  after  some  pleasant  repartees  with  the  governor,  he 
contrived  to  detach  me  from  the  company,  and  urged  that 
he  did  not  choose  to  say  any  thing  to  alarm  tht  Senorita, 
but  thought  fit  to  apprise  me  of  our  situation,  and  his  niten- 
tions.  The  Spaniards,  under  Valdez,  he  said  were  about 
seven  hundred  strong,  posted  at  La  Puente,  on  the  high 
road  over  which  our  course  lay  ;  his  care  was  to  protect  us, 
and  prevent  the  Spanish  marauders  from  molesting  us  ;  that 
he  had  already  made  up  his  mind  on  the  plan  he  should 
pursue,  and  we  might  rely  on  our  safety  for  the  night ;  but, 
lest  the  Senorita  should  be  alarmed  at  the  noise  he  meant  to 
make,  he  thought  fit  to  let  me  know,  that,  about  two  hours 
after  midnight,  his  whole  force  would  be  in  motion,  and 
that  we  must  not  mistake  his  bugles  for  those  of  the  enemy; 
that  an  officer  of  influence,  to  whom  he  particularly  intro- 
duced me,  with  explanations  afterwards,  would  accompany 
us,  with  an  escort  of  infantry  and  cavalry ;  that  our  road 
would  be  circuitous  and  remote  from  the  highway,  and  that 
we  should  be  conducted  clear  of  the  enemy *s  picktts  and 
every  danger.  The  colonel  and  suite,  after  spending  some 
pleasant  time,  departed  ;  and  taking  our  serge mt  with  him, 
put  six  fresh  mules  under  his  charge,  with  two  muleteers, 
whom  he  directed  to  obey  our  orders  implicitly.  The  mules 
were  placed  in  the  corals  with  forage  of  molocha  in  abun- 
dance ;  .we  directed  to   have   the   baggage  packed,  and  all 

42 


330  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ready  by  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  went  to  rest  in 
perfect  security  ;  about  two  o'clock,  indeed,  the  clangor  of 
bugles  was  heard,  not  at  a  single  point  collected,  but  at  se- 
veral points  near  and  distant ;  appearing  to  sound  and  an- 
swer, and  to  sound  and  answer  again  at  different  places ; 
it  was  too  dark  to  discern  distinctly,  but  the  cessation  of 
the  motion  of  ol^jccts  below,  and  the  gradual  decrease  of 
shrillness,  showed  that  the  bugles  were  hastily  passing  to 
the  north  of  us ;  according  to  the  impression  of  the  sound 
of  the  bugles,  which  never  ceased  while  we  were  in  hearing 
distance,  they  were  behind  the  mountains  to  the  north  before 
we  could  put  ourselves  in  motion  to  proceed  south-west. 
The  governor,  who  had  given  up  his  quarters  for  our  con- 
venience, and  staid  at  an  adjoining  house,  appeared  with 
some  baskets  of  fruit  to  be  placed  on  our  baggage;  and 
displaying  every  kindness,  praying  for  our  safety  from  the 
barbarous  Goths  (Godas).  Our  commandant  of  the  escort 
was  on  the  ground  also  before  us,  and,  after  moving  about  a 
mile  with  him,  we  found  a  detachment  of  infantry,  and  in 
the  valley  to  which  we  descended  southward  and  eastward, 
through  tremendous  ravines  and  precipices,  we  saw  the  ca- 
valry receive  orders  how  to  move  on  our  right ;  and  now, 
proceeding  up  a  deep  narrow  glen,  we  wound  round  to  the 
south,  and  at  length  to  the  south-west,  ascending.  The 
commanding  officer,  who  minutely  knew  every  spot  of  these 
valleys,  intmnated  that  there  were  some  Godas  in  the  line  of 
our  movement,  and  he  pushed  forward  in  advance.  Two 
fine  young  men,  out  of  uniform,  accompanied  him,  each 
carrying  a  loaded  miisquetoon  on  their  saddle  bows ;  they 
dashed  up  the  side  of  a  steep  mound,  and  passing  through 
a  thick  hedge,  a  well-looking  house,  surrounded  by  hedges 
of  beautiful  shrubbery,  presented  itself;  he  rode  up  to  the 
door,  and  I  followed  him  ;  the  young  men  prepared,  with 
their  musquetoons  adjusted,  to  meet  any  assault  or  punish 
insult :  the    house,  however,    was  closed,  its  tengnts  had 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  331 

eloped.  Some  excellent  poultry  were  taken,  but  the  value 
was  thrown  into  a  window,  and  we  passed  on  through  a 
winding  path,  crossed  several  very  steep  hills,  thick  forests, 
and  some  intricate  mazes  of  rank  vegetation.  About  one 
o'clock  we  emerged  from  the  forest  upon  the  summit  of  a 
beautiful  hill,  covered  with  a  close-nipt  velvet  turf,  as  if 
sheep  had  sheared  it ;  the  cavalry  had  taken  a  different  track 
from  ours,  in  order  to  apprize  us  on  our  approach  to  this 
summit,  which  overlooked  the  main  road,  and  appeared  in 
front  of  the  position  which  had  been  occupied  by  the  most 
advanced  pickets  of  the  Spaniards  the  night  preceding.  Our 
infantry  here  reposed  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  and  the  horse- 
men soon  after  appeared  in  view  on  the  road  below,  over 
which  our  route  lay.  We  immediately  descended,  and  on 
the  very  spot  where  the  Spanish  cooks  had  lighted  their 
fires,  which  were  still  smoking,  we  took  leave  of  our  ac- 
complished lieutenant  and  his  escort,  and  he  pursued  his 
route  by  the  common  way  back  to  Gritja,  while  we  conti- 
nued our  march  in  the  opposite  way. 

After  I  had  been  some  days  in  Bogota,  and  while  listen- 
ing to  a  debate  in  the  senate,  the  lively  commandant  of  Grit- 
ja, Colonel  Gomez,  stood  for  a  moment  by  my  side,  seized 
my  hand  and  pressed  it ;  we  retired  into  the  corridor  sponta- 
neously ;  I  to  thank  him  for  his  goodness,  and  he  to  explain 
his  success.  His  plan,  as  he  before  indicated,  was  to  pro- 
duce such  an  alarm  in  the  camp  at  La  Puente,  as  to  obhgc 
Valdez  to  call  in  his  pickets,  by  which  means  our  passage 
was  doubly  secure ;  he  therefore  made  the  inordinate  cla- 
mour in  the  night,  with  a  view  that  the  emissaries  of  Val- 
dez in  the  neighbourhood  should  carry  the  news  to  the  camp 
of  his  being  in  motion  northward,  so  as  to  lead  him  to  think 
the  Colombians  meant  to  attack  his  rear,  and  thus  menacing 
him  in  that  quarter,  he  would  draw  away  his  pickets  from 
the  side  we  were  to  pass.  The  effect  was  such  as  he  had 
calculated.  Fighting  with  four  hundred,  opposed  to  between 


232>  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

six  and  seven  hundred,  was  out  of  his  contemplation,  and 
he  carried  no  infantry  beyond  a  pass  upon  which  ho  could 
fall  back  and  defend  himself;  but,  added  he,  you  have  ren- 
dered us  a  great  service,  and  the  people  at  Gritja  consider 
your  daui^hter  as  one  of  their  guardian  angels ;  for,  before 
your  arrival,  Gritja  was  every  day  annoyed,  and  we  had  not 
a  force  adequate  to  drive  the  Spaniards  away  until  you  came. 
The  number  of  our  bugles,  and  the  noise  we  made  with  them 
in  so  many  directions,  had  so  much  effect  upon  the  Spa- 
niards, that  they  decamped  from  La  Puente  the  next  day, 
and  our  good  people  attribute  it  all  to  the  Senorita,  your 
daughter,  taking  iVom  me  all  the  merit  of  my  bugle-horns. 

Colonel  Gomez  was  a  handsome  mulatto,  with  crisped 
hair,  his  stature  good,  and  limbs  neat,  but  his  complexion 
was  rather  fair  or  cream-coloured  than  yellow,  his  counte- 
nance open  and  of  an  unceasing  gaiety.  When  we  met  first 
we  halted  some  time  under  a  shade,  waiting  the  return  of  a 
horseman  whom  he  had  sent  in  advance,  and  being  mounted 
on  a  fine  mule,  and  well  accoutred,  he  began  to  chat  and 
joke  with  the  grace  and  vivacity  of  a  Frenchman ;  asked  a 
thousand  amusing  but  no  impertinent  questions ;  talked  of  our 
country  and  his  own  ;  of  the  two  revolutions ;  the  battles, 
and  the  blessings  which  they  assured ;  and  said,  Colombia 
had  never  been  free  if  North  America  had  not  set  the  ex- 
ample. He  had  signalized  himself  in  a  temporary  command 
at  Coro,  where  he  had  been,  he  said,  abandoned,  but  had  re- 
solved to  save  his  corps  ;  and  though  he  knew  he  was  incom- 
petent to  resist  with  success,  he  made  a  show  of  resistance, 
and  enabled  himself  to  enter  upon  a  capitulation  which  might 
not  otherwise  be  granted ;  but  the  Spanish  officer  dictated  a 
treaty,  which  contained  conditions  over  which  Colonel  Go- 
mez had  no  controul,  and  which  belonged  to  the  Congress 
alone.  He  intimated  the  fact  to  the  Spanish  commander, 
who  would  not  chtnige  his  predeterminations.  Gomez  sign. 
cd  ;  extricated  himself  and  his  force  ;  explained  the  circum- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  333 

stances  and  the  views  which  induced  him  to  acquiesce  in  the 
dictation  of  the  convention  by  the  Spaniard ;  all  that  was 
conformable  to  the  law  of  nations  was  ratified  and  fulfilled 
— the  unauthorized  dictation  annulled.  The  reputation  of 
Gomez  had  been  high  before  as  a  partizan  officer ;  here  his 
intelligence  marked  him  out  for  higher  trust,  and  he  only- 
wanted  a  force  equal  in  number  to  Valdez,  or  within  a  hun- 
dred of  him,  he  said,  to  give  a  good  account  of  him,  which  I 
verily  believe. 

At  half  past  four  o'clock  we  reached  the  casa  de  postas  at 
El  Cobre^  supposed  to  be  so  named  from  a  copper  mine  in 
the  adjacent  sierra.  This  post  house  was  a  mere  hut,  of  about 
twelve  feet  long  by  nine  broad,  yet  a  partition  separated  the 
interior,  forming  one  room  of  seven  feet,  and  another  of  about 
five  feet  breadth.  The  room  of  five  feet  was  the  identical  apart- 
ment of  the  administrador  de  las  postas,  or  the  post-office.  The 
eaves  of  this  thatched  casa  extended  a  little  more  than  a  yard 
beyond  the  outer  clay- composed  wall.  The  line  of  direction 
of  its  length  was  north  and  south ;  the  door  entrance  was  on 
the  west  side  into  the  larger  room,  and  a  window^  or  hole  in 
the  wall^  of  two  feet  square  on  the  east  side,  was  the  avenue 
of  business  for  this  national  establishment.  Huts  of  this  kind 
are  established  throughout  the  country  where  towns  are  re- 
mote from  each  other,  at  such  distances  as  the  form  of  the 
road,  flat  or  steep,  rough  or  smooth  on  the  route,  renders 
convenient  for  the  performance  of  a  journey  by  the  couriers, 
in  a  period  which  corresponds  with  the  celerity  of  transport- 
ation, and  the  capacity  of  the  couriers  to  travel.  In  every 
respect  it  is  the  prototype  of  the  dawk  of  Hindustan,  and  by  a 
singular  coincidence  of  terms,  the  man  who  carries  the  pack- 
et of  letters  in  Colombia  and  in  Hindustan,  is  called  a  peon^ 
and  he  carries  his  charge,  w-hen  of  the  same  size,  in  the  very 
same  way  ;  he  also  moves  indifferent  to  weather,  rain  or  sun- 
shine, dark  or  light ;  when  he  reaches  the  end  of  his  stage, 
he  wipes  himself  of  dust,   rain,  or  sweat,  and  goes  to  sleep, 


334  yiaiT  to  Colombia, 

awakes,  dresses,  and  eats  his  meal,  and  goes  to  sleep  again, 
till  the  correOy  which  he  is  to  bear  in  return,  is  ready  to  be 
dispatched  for  the  place  whence  he  came  the  preceding  day. 
El  CobrCj  notwithstanding  the  dimensions  of  the  casa  and 
its  camera  de  occupacion,  is  what  >ve  call  a  central  point,  or 
distributing  oflice,  as  many  routes  meet  there  ;  but  I  seldom 
saw  a  mail  much  more  bulky  than  a  common  pocket-book. 
Since  the  republic  has  been  established,  however,  the  addi- 
tion of  official  dispatches  has  been  more  constant  and  fre- 
quent, and  their  weight  more  heavy  ;  printed  official  books, 
laws,  and  an  increasing  number  of  newspapers,  swell  their 
magnitude,  and  increase  their  number  ;  more  than  pne  peon, 
therefore,  is  employed  on  the  same  route,  and  on  the  same 
day,  who  start  at  different  times:  the  government  papers  are 
first  dispatched;  the  habitual  distinction  of  ^rea?  from  small 
men,  gives  the  preference  of  dispatch  to  the  packets  of  great 
men ;  the  newspapers  have  the  next,  and  the  small  men  or 
the  unknown  are  the  last  in  rotation  ;  hv\t peons  are  dispatch- 
ed in  every  direction  as  soon  as  a  packet  is  ready  ;  a  way- 
bill is  prepared,  and  its  duplicate  filed ;  an  open  paper  is  car- 
ried for  the  inspection  of  the  municipal  and  military  officers 
on  the  route,  who  sign  it  successively  as  it  reaches  them,  at 
once  to  serve  as  a  check,  by  which  the  orders  they  receive 
are  acknowledged,  and  to  authenticate  the  paper  to  the  next 
magistrate.  The  government  has  employed  this  flying  dis- 
patch with  infinite  advantage  during  the  revolution,  in  circu- 
lating popular  information,  victories,  and  other  useful  mat- 
ters. On  many  occasions  duplicates  and  triplicates  were  thus 
issued,  and  intendants,  commandants,  and  alcaldes,  were  re- 
quired to  multiply  and  circulate  copies,  and  to  post  them  up 
at  churches  and  other  public  places.  The  provincial  magis- 
trates use  them  in  the  same  way  within  their  jurisdiction  ;  a 
governor  writes  such  an  event  has  taken  place  ;  such  persons 
are  on  the  road  ;  and  I  suspect  that  it  was  by  this  means 
our  approach  was  so  constantly  anticipated,  and  such  sig- 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  335 

na\  hospitality  and  attention  bestowed  on  us  so  uniformly 
and  unexpectedly. 

The  climate  at  £1  Cobre  is  not  very  warm.  The  camera 
of  the  administrador  was  by  no  means  too  large  for  himself — 
the  trunks  of  my  young  companions  were  therefore  placed  in 
the  camera  mayor ^  and  by  means  of  their  blankets  and  cloaks 
converted  into  a  dormitory ;  as  for  myself  I  resolved,  with  San- 
cho  Panza^  to  hacer  rosea  del  galgo — to  make  the  best  I  could 
of  it,  and  hung  my  hammock  beneath  the  eaves  of  the  casa  : 
the  sergeant,  kindly  conceiving  that  he  could  serve  better  as 
a  curtain  than  the  open  air,  hung  his  hammock  outside  mine. 
The  mules  were  attached  by  their  halters,  and  suitable  long 
ropes,  which  are  among  the  necessaries  of  the  traveller,  to 
stakes  fixed  in  a  circle,  so  as  to  afford  grazing  ground  to 
each,  and  prevent  straying — and  the  muleteers  and  servants 
slept  in  sight,  each  upon  one  cow-hide,  and,  if  occasion  re- 
quired, sheltered  by  another,  in  sight  of  the  mules,  to  prevent 
stealing — which  sometimes  happens. 

The  young  folks  found  that  their  dormitory,  in  connex- 
ion with  the  floor,  was  not  as  comfortable  as  their  hammocks, 
for,  although  there  were  neither  flies  nor  mosquitoes,  the 
ants  are  very  numerous  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  and 
troublesome  in  such  circumstances.  I  slept  as  comfortably  as 
I  wished,  though  the  curtain  furnished  by  the  intervention 
of  the  sergeant,  I  have  no  doubt,  very  much  mitigated  the 
coldness  of  the  night. 


836 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Moving  magazines — Commissary  of  subsistence — army  in  bivouac — civility  of 
the  troops — cump  fare  and  recreations — the  Post  house  of  Challomar — English 
officer — General  Urdaneta — politeness — unexpected  adventure — a  ne^e  light — 
hospitality — limits  to  travellers — move  for  Tariba — sublime  disorder  of  the 
Cordillera — avoid  San  Cristoval — refresh  at  Tariba — reach  Capacho — popu- 
lation  singular   scite — ants — leave    Capacho — geology — sublinne   aspect   of 

the  mountains — wcw  aspects  from  the  Sierra — exhilarating  atmosphere — ef- 
fects on  the  vision  and  imagination — lag  beliind — fatiguing  descent  to  the 
Tachira — appearance  like  a  river  of  milk — old  boundary  revolutionized — 
Antonio  de  Cucuta — well  built  town — industrious  people — change  of  curren- 
cy— knowledge  requisite  for  travellers — currency  pernicious  to  the  industrious 
classes — a  tax  in  favour  of  the  cunning — policy  calls  for  a  remedy — Rcsario 
de  Cucuta — well  lodged — fertile  valleys  around — the  mountain  aspects  savage 
and  wild. 

We  found  it  impracticable  to  move  before  nine  o'clock, 
but  by  ten  we  were  at  the  summit  or  lofty  side  of  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Paramo  ;  where,  though  the  wind  from  the  south- 
east was  piercing,  the  track  was  good.  We  had  passed 
some  very  numerous  droves  of  the  finest  horned  cattle  I  had 
seen  in  any  part  of  the  world,  grazing  on  the  natural  pastures, 
where  the  forests  had  left  spaces  of  great  extent  unencroach- 
ed  upon.  We  had  bivouaced  and  slept  near  one  of  these 
droves,  and  so  near  as  to  hear  the  drovers  occasionally  laugh- 
ing and  singing  as  they  watched ;  this  day  we  met  a  still 
more  numerous  drove,  and  an  European  gentleman  in  black, 
well  mounted  and  equipped,  accompanied  them.  An  ex- 
change of  courtesies  was  natural  in  the  midst  of  an  immense 
forest,  and  in  the  lofty  depths  of  the  Cordillera ;  those  who 
have  not  had  experience  of  such  incidental  meetings,  cannot 
well  conceive  the  pleasure  they  produce  ;  strangers  are  in 
an  instant  acquainted,  and  their  conversation  would  seem  to 
be  the  result  of  years  of  intercourse.     This  gentleman  was 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  337 

the  commissary  of  subsistence  to  the  army  of  General  Ur- 
daneta,  who,  he  said,  we  should  meet  at  the  foot  of  the  Pa- 
ramo: he  was  going  in  advance,  and  there  are  my  maga- 
zines transporting  themselves ^  as  he  jocosely  observed,  and 
that  this  kind  of  commissariat  saved  a  great  deal  of  expense 
compared  with  the  wagon  train  of  European  armies :  in 
fact,  the  army  had  no  other  baggage  but  the  mules  w^hich 
bore  ammunition,  which  was  secured  in  water-proof  casks, 
covered  with  cow-hides.  The  system  was  excellent,  A 
calculation  of  the  average  consumption  of  beef  was  first 
made  according  to  the  force  to  be  supplied  to  the  army  and 
the  followers  ;  droves  were,  upon  these  returns,  drawn  from 
the  plains,  and  detached  to  grazing  grounds  on  the  proposed 
line  of  march,  wliere  the  cattle  became  fat  and  heavy  before 
they  were  required  for  subsistence. 

About  two  o'clock,  descending  through  that  part  of  the 
mountain  called  the  Forest  of  Wild  Boars^  we  perceived  the 
smoke  of  several  fires  rising  above  the  forest  tre^s,  and  the 
monotonous  rattle  or  cadence  of  the  macara^  a  sou  of  time 
instrument,  to  which  the  paisaiios  dance;  of  which  some 
notice  will  be  taken  when  we  reach  Cucuta.  We  soon  dis- 
cerned the  corps  d''armee  of  General  Urdaneta,  in  bivouac 
on  both  sides  of  the  road,  and  in  the  woods  adjacent.  We 
had  to  ride  close  by  several  of  their  fires,  and  found  their 
habits  and  manners  so  kind  and  civil,  that  we  could  not 
but  compare  them,  and  to  their  advantage,  with  soldiers  we 
had  seen  elsewhere,  whose  rudeness  and  vulgar  impertinence 
had  no  imitators  here.  Three  or  four  saplings,  tied  about 
four  or  five  feet  from  the  ground  and  extended  below%  form- 
ed the  area  of  the  kitchen  ;  a  brisk  fire  between  served  for 
boiling,  roasting,  or  broiling ;  and  the  companies,  formed 
into  squads  or  messes,  distributed  the  duties  of  the  mess 
between  them.  Cattle,  in  suitable  numbers  to  the  returns, 
were  slaughtered  at  convenient  points,  and  the  portion  of 
each  mess  supplied  and  carried  to  the  fires;  and,  as  the 

43 


338  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Utensils  are  few  and  rude,  the  repast  is  easily  prepared  and 
disposed  of;  though  here,  and  in  all  places  where  subsistence 
of  vegetables  is  abundant,  soups,  yuccas,  aracatchas,  apios, 
and  the  never-satiating  plantain,  composed  messes  often  such 
as  would  gratify  an  epicure.  Those  squads  which  happened 
to  dispatch  their  meal  first,  were  at  different  points  recreating 
themselves,  and  it  was  among  these  we  heard  the  macara., 
while  we  now  saw  males  and  females  dancing  a  galeron  or 
a  bolera ;  in  other  points  the  guitar,  scarcely  audible,  but  yet 
tinkling  beneath  the  huge  forest  trees ;  and  the  song,  in 
which  Colombia  and  Bolivar  never  failed  to  form  the  burden. 

The  spectacle  was  highly  interesting ;  and,  as  many  of 
the  fires  were  lighted  on  the  road,  we  were  obliged  in  cour- 
tesy to  make  a  sort  of  wandering  march,  which,  being  more 
slow  than  it  would  have  been  with  a  clear  path,  afforded  us 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  more  and  seeing  better  than  if  we 
had  travelled  in  a  right  line.  The  forest  trees  were  of  an 
immense  height ;  and,  whether  they  grew  so  naturally,  or 
the  soldiers  had  cut  away  the  lower  branches  for  fuel,  the 
stems  appeared  in  all  their  magnitude,  and  the  under  space 
clear,  but  with  a  dim  light,  as  if  a  curtain  were  spread  above. 
The  soldiers  every  foot  of  the  way  were  cheerful,  civil,  and 
good-natured,  and  often  cleared  the  path  for  our  passage, 
exchanging  jokes  with  our  never-tiring  sergeant. 

About  half  a  mile  below  the  bivouac  stood  the  Casa  de  las 
Postas  of  Challomar,  with  its  longest  front  along  the  valley 
and  its  gabel  end  to  the  road  :  it  was  exactly  such  a  house 
as  that  of  El  Cobre,  but  was  surrounded  bv  crouds  of  mill- 
tary  men  of  every  rank,  horse,  foot,  and  artillery  :  it  was 
perfectly  picturesque,  and  we  must  pass  through  the  loose 
array.  An  English  officer,  who  proved  to  be  Major  Frazer, 
of  the  staff  of  General  Urdaneta,  seeing  us  advance,  very  po- 
litely approached,  complimented,  and  made  enquiries,  and 
gave  us  the  news,  and  I  waited  on  the  general  to  pay  my 
respects  and  offer  my  passports,  which  he  politely  declined 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  &39 

to  see,  as  he''  appeared  to  be  apprised  who  we  were :  he 
invited  us  to  alight,  and  partake  of  his  camp  fare.  He 
made  some  enquiries  of  what  I  had  heard  at  Merida,  Gritja, 
and  along  the  road,  and  I  related  to  him  all  I  had  heard  ;  and 
we  parted,  urging  our  mules  to  make  up  for  the  delay.  The 
route  was  more  intricate  and  mazy,  and  the  forest  evidently 
deeper,  and  more  dark  and  humid,  and  the  plain  was  yet  far 
distant.  The  sergeant,  who  knew  the  way  well,  pushed 
ahead,  and  the  mules  were  evidently  becoming  feeble  from  the 
long  descent,  pressing  the  whole  weight  on  their  fore  feet ;  we 
were  winding  through  a  gravelly  avenue,  over  which  trickled 
a  light  rill,  when  the  sergeant  gave  a  shout,  and  suddenly 
plunged  into  the  gap  of  a  thicket,  which  proved  to  be  merely 
a  hedge,  where  the  stranger  would  never  expect  to  find  a 
human  habitation ;  we  followed  through  the  brake,  when  a 
spacious  cottage  opened  upon  us  in  the  area :  before  the  door 
were  spread  dry  hides,  loaded  with  coffee,  exposed  to  the  sun 
for  drying  ;  and  in  front  the  elegant  coffee  plantation  spread 
deep  and  wide,  and  adorned  with  numerous  banana  trees. 
There  was  a  second  cottage,  that,  with  an  interval  between, 
crossed  the  direction  of  the  front ;  and  a  delicious  rivulet, 
which  served  to  irrigate  the  coffee  field  and  the  gardens  ad- 
jacent, murmured  over  a  bed  of  dark  green  and  gray  pebbles. 
We  were  shewn  into  the  first  house  by  the  good  dame, 
who  had  instantly  recognized  the  merry  sergeant  as  an  old 
acquaintance,  and  soon  possessed  herself  of  the  relations  of 
our  party.  The  sergeant  here  purchased  eggs,  a  fowl,  and 
a  young  turkey,  which  was  roasted  to  serve  for  the  next 
day's  feast  in  the  wilds ;  and  night  came  upon  us  before  we 
had  well  quaffed  our  chocolate.  Our  hammocks  had,  accord- 
ing to  the  established  discipline,  taken  their  proper  places,  but 
it  was  now  so  dark  we  could  not  know  which  was  which : 
the  good  Sefiora  soon  removed  this  inconvenience,  and  ex- 
cited our  amusement  by  the  novelty  and  style  ot  her  illumi- 
nation.    The  fibre  of  a  plant  about  the  size  of  a  stem  of 


340  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

hay,  had  been  employed  to  connect,  as  on  a  string  of  beads, 
a  number  of  the  beans  of  the  Palma  C/iristiy  or  castor-oi^ 
plant.  The  seeds  were  quite  dry,  and  by  means  of  a  bodkin 
they  were  perforated,  and  the  fibre  or  straw  was  passed 
througli  them  :  this  string  of  beans  hung  from  her  hand,  with 
the  lower  bean  lighted,  and  it  cast  forth  a  flame  as  pure  and 
brilliant  as  an  argand  lamp.  There  were  perhaps  forty  l>eans 
on  the  string,  but  the  blaze  did  not  extend  at  once  above 
that  bean  which  gave  light,  until  it  dropped  off  in  charcoal, 
and  the  next  bean  continued  to  catch  the  fire  and  shew 
the  like  bright  light  in  succession. 

We  were  very  kindly  entertained,  and  in  a  manner  which 
appeared  to  gratify  the  giver  as  much  as  those  who  received 
the  favours ;  no  compensation  would  be  taken  for  some  fine 
oranges,  and  s^veet  bananas  :  a  service  of  coffee  by  the  wor- 
thy Seiiora  in  the  morning,  she  insisted  should  be  consi- 
dered as  an  evidence  of  her  pleasure ;  and  she  proceeded  to 
give  hearty  thanks  to  Santa  Maria  with  great  ardour  and 
satisfaction,  when  the  sergeant  told  her  we  should  all  return 
that  way  in  three  or  four  months ;  which  \v<.\s  in  fact  my  in- 
tention, depending,  however,  on  the  course  of  the  business 
which  I  was  entrusted  with.  I  had  travelled  too  much  in 
various  parts  of  the  world  not  to  be  acquainted  with  the  use- 
fulness and  advantage  to  be  derived  from  little  trinkets,  plain 
knives  and  scissors,  needles,  thimbles,  small  tapes,  bobbins, 
sewing  thread,  gimp,  and  a  few  cards  of  mother  of  pearl  but- 
tons, to  be  used  as  presents  according  to  the  person  to  be 
complimented  :  I  had  here,  as  on  other  occasions  before  and 
afterwards,  reason  to  be  gratified  by  the  satisfaction  which 
little  articles  of  this  description  afforded.  The  children  here 
were  young,  and  of  course  gratification  more  tlian  use  was 
to  be  consulted ;  however,  the  Senora  was  particularly  pleased 
with  the  largest  scissors  and  a  plated  thimble.  I  had  not  an 
adequate  anticipation  of  the  obligation  she  appeared  to  think 
conferred  on  her ;  and  I  am  the  more  particular  in  this  in- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  344 

stance,  because  future  travellers  may  by  similar  means  ren- 
der themselves  and  others  acceptable.  Indeed,  I  only  re- 
gretted that  the  articles  were  not  of  more  value,  where  such 
civilities  had  been  bestowed  so  disinterestedly,  and  in  a  si- 
tuation which  was  so  secluded  as  to  seem  cut  off  from  the 
rest  of  the  world ;  for  I  should  never  have  expected  to  find 
a  human  habitation,  much  less  a  fine  prosperous  coffee  plan- 
tation, in  the  midst  of  this  wild.  We  had  gone  to  rest  early, 
and  rose  late ;  and  it  was  nine  o'clock  before  we  set  out  for 
Tariba. 

The  mountain  regions  of  the  Cordillera  present  a  very  dif- 
ferent aspect,  to  the  traveller,  from  any  thing  to  be  found  in 
written  description.  The  Cordilleras  are  usually  depicted  as  a 
long,  uninterrupted,  lofty,  single  range.  No  just  conception 
can  be  formed  from  such  an  idea.  I  should  rather  sav  that, 
though  in  a  certain  sense  continuous,  they  are  continually  bro- 
ken ;  that  is,  as  the  Cordilleras  are  known  to  be  elevated  at  Pa- 
tagonia,— nay,  that  Tierra  del  Fuego  is  an  original  part  of  the 
range  as  much  as  the  Sierra  of  Santa  Marta  or  the  Brigantine^ 
yet  that  it  is  not  an  unbroken  nor  a  single  range  ;  and  tliat, 
even  where  supposed  to  be  single,  more  particularly  beneath 
the  equator,  the  Cordilleras  really  consist  of  numerous  distinct- 
groups;  that  they  are  intersected  in  all  directions  by  valleys 
and  plains ;  and  that  their  real  character  would  seem  to  be 
somewhat  like  a  great  table- land  or  platform,  upon  which  had 
been  piled  a  mound  of  mounds,  within  which  another  table- 
land was  elevated,  and  other  mounds  or  mountains  thrown 
in  every  direction  across  and  around  its  margin,  and  still  an- 
other and  another  within  these,  till  they  terminate  in  such 
plains  as  those  of  Bogota  and  Quito.  Should  not  this  work 
swell  beyond  my  intention,  I  shall  offer  some  more  particu- 
lar thoughts  on  this  subject,  which  were  indeed  already  writ- 
ten before  I  left  Colombia. 

The  valley  into  which  we  had  nov/  descended  presented 
very   remarkable  appearances.     The  waters  of  this  valley 


342  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

appeared  to  hesitate  between  the  choice  of  the  oceans  into 
which  they  should  enter ;  the  prolongation  of  the  ridges  of 
Merida,  of  which  those  we  had  just  passed  was  a  continuation, 
seemed  here  to  wind  away  to  the  south  and  south  east  and 
disappear  ;  but  it  was  only  a  seeming  ;  though  too  remote 
to  be  distinctly  perceptible,  they  were  there  ;  but  mountains 
and  hills  and  plains,  diminished  by  distance  and  comparison, 
occupied  tii*:  vast  space ;  and  have  the  lofty  barriers  of  the 
Chisga  and  the  Albaracin  for  their  borders.  We  were  here 
on  the  north  side  of  the  sierra,  but  the  rio  Tariba^  which  we 
crossed  as  a  rivulet,  and,  which  would  seem  to  seek  its  bed 
in  the  Caribbean  Sea,  pursues  a  different  course,  and  uni- 
ting with  other  streams  augments  the  volume  of  the  Apure. 

The  ordinary  road  here  leads  by  San  Cristoval,  but  to 
save  a  few  leagues  we  crossed  the  Tariba,  leaving  that  place 
on  the  left,  and  struck  off  north-west,  taking  the  route  of 
Capacho.  We  rested  and  refreshed  at  Tariba,  and  fell  in 
with  a  French  medical  man,  attached  to  the  army,  who,  like 
others  of  the  profession,  complained  of  the  healthiness  of  the 
climate,  where  he  said  they  were  professionally  starving  in 
the  midst  of  abundance.  Facts  like  these  speak  more  than 
a  dissertation.  Tariba  had  been  a  pretty  place,  but  has  been 
"  scratched  by  the  war" — the  country  in  the  vast  view 
around  it,  south-east,  south,  and  west,  is  luxuriant,  and  the 
temperature  as  agreeable  as  that  of  Caracas. 

After  a  repose  of  two  hours,  soliciting  the  alcalde  for 
mules  in  vain,  as  Capacho  was  reported  to  be  only  three 
leagues,  and  whether  the  leagues  were  three  or  four  miles 
long,  could  not  occupy  more  than  three  hours,  we  determi- 
ned to  retain  the  mules  we  had,  and  pay  extra  for  them ; 
a  few  reals  and  some  guarapa  reconciled  the  muleteers,  and 
we  reached  Capacho  by  five  o'clock. 

The  scite  of  this  place  is  the  summit  of  a  hill  composed 
wholly  of  a  ferruginous  sand  stone,  a  naked  rock,  upon  which 
verdure  is  to  be  found  only  in  small  holes  or  fissures ;  open 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  343 

around,  but  steepest  on  the  north  and  west,  in  which  direc- 
tion the  prospect  is  wild  and  forbidding.  Nevertheless,  it 
has  a  spacious  church,  of  rude  but  firm  structure  ;  and  there 
are  some  tolerably  good  houses  of  the  kind  ;  and  a  consider- 
able number  scattered  on  the  sides  of  the  hill  where  any 
thing  like  a  level  appeared  to  invite  residence — if  invite  it 
could.  The  whole  visible  population,  here,  were  purely  of 
African  descent ;  excepting  at  Estanques,  I  had  not  seen 
an  exclusively  African  population  any  where  in  my  course, 
and  in  the  whole  country  not  so  many  as  here.  They  were 
all  free  people,  and  they  had  no  habits  but  those  of  the  other 
population  of  the  country.  They  were  civil,  unabashed  by 
the  presence  of  strangers,  and  took  a  pleasure  in  rendering 
kindness.  They  were  better  clad  than  the  rock  they  appeared 
to  fatten  upon,  but  they  pointed  to  the  plantations  and  fields 
around  as  the  means  of  their  prosperity.  An  uncommonly 
fine  breed  of  hogs  strayed  round  this  rocky  eminence ;  we 
found  no  difficulty  in  procuring  milk,  eggs,  and  fruit,  through 
the  voluntary  agency  of  these  innocent  people.  But  it  was 
to  me  unaccountable  why  such  a  spot  should  be  selected 
for  habitation  in  the  midst  of  a  country  so  beautiful.  There 
was  no  alcalde,  and  we  stood  in  need  of  none ;  an  obliging 
young  woman  pointed  out  a  vacant  house,  and  it  was  the 
best  in  view,  and  there  we  hung  up  our  hammocks,  and 
went  through  the  usual  course  of  fricasee  and  chocolate. — 
The  only  mode  in  which  I  could  form  a  rational  conjecture 
of  the  motive  for  making  this  rock  a  residence,  was  the  mul- 
titudes of  red  ants,  which  are  more  than  commonly  numer- 
ous in  the  adjacent  country,  and  whose  labours,  in  elevating 
mounds  of  earth  much  larger  in  proportion  to  their  ow^n 
bulk,  than  the  pyramids  of  Egypt  to  man,  are  manifest  in 
many  parts  of  the  country.  The  absence  of  every  thing  like 
soil  or  vegetation,  on  this  rock,  seemed  to  protect  it  from 
the  ants ;  where  the  population  were  so  sleek  and  shining  that 
they  seemed  to  live  upon  the  fat  of  the  land,   and  probably 


344!  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

selected  the  place  as  a  refuge  from  those  insects.  Numerous 
goats  in  equally  good  condition  with  the  other  inhabitants 
were  also  there. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th  January  ^ve  descended  from 
the  sterile  side  of  Capacho,  into  a  ravine  of  argillaceous  and 
chalky  rock,  which  was  dissolved  and  discoloured  the  water 
that  oozed  out  of  the  spongy  sod  of  brown  and  dark  grass 
which  covered  the  slopes  :  the  course  of  this  day's  journey 
would  have  afforded  ample  occupation  to  satisfy  the  curiosity 
of  the  zealous  geologist  for  a  month  or  more.  .  The  diver- 
sity of  the  strata  which  were  presented  on  the  sides  of  ravines 
and  declivities  of  mountains  was  infinite  ;  we  travelled  down 
the  sides  of  lofty  slopes  or  ranges  of  the  trap  formation,  com- 
posed of  calcareous  sandstone,  tinged  with  oxid  of  iron, 
which  had  all  the  appearance  of  art,  and  the  resemblance  of 
the  semicircular  stairs  leading  to  some  vast  edifice ;  the  re- 
gularly flat  planes  and  vertical  edges  giving  the  semblance 
©f  stairs;  and  the  breaches  of  this  regularity  in  the  prolonga- 
tion, or  extremities  of  those  ranges  of  stairs,  corresponding 
with  the  appearance  of  ruins  in  works  of  art ;  in  other  places 
where  the  flow  of  a  mountain  stream  had  undermined  the 
face  of  a  precipice,  and  the  bank  in  a  mass  fell  forward,  leav- 
ing the  upright  section  exposed,  twenty  different  strata  ap- 
peared in  horizontal,  but  varying  lines,  exhibiting  anthracite 
coal  of  a  glittering  fracture,  a  dull  carbon,  a  fleecy  white 
earth,  ochreous  earth  ;  strata  of  siliceous  gravel,  and  quartz, 
in  vast  fair  masses :  indeed,  the  ideas  here  given  relate  only 
to  what  was  seen  in  the  mere  passing,  without  dismounting 
or  any  effort  to  collect  specimens,  which  could  not  be  ad- 
vantageously carried  and  preserved. 

The  country  now  had  totally  changed  its  aspects ;  vast 
headlands,  ravines,  discoloured  rocks,  and  gloomy  steeps, 
from  which  field  and  forest  appeared  to  be  excluded.  It 
seemed  to  be  the  rendezvous  of  the  great  members  and  de- 
tached heads  of  the  confederacy  of  the  Andes,  which  had 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  345 

met  there  to  open  their  reservoirs,  to  distribute  and  send 
forth  eastj  west,  north,  and  south,  their  periodical  floods,  to 
cherish  and  diffuse  vegetation  and  health,  and  temper  the 
climates  around  and  beneath  them,  though,  in  their  presence, 
eternal  disorder  and  sterility  seemed  to  prevail.  Looking  to 
the  west  of  north,  the  great  master  chain  of  Perija  opens  its 
vast  arms,  and  relieving,  by  its  sublime  shadows,  the  nume- 
rous lowly  valleys,  whose  richness  and  fertility  it  protects 
and  conceals  :  farther  north  of  the  west,  the  mountains  of 
Socorro  appear;  the  intervening  elevated  plain  of  Giron, 
separated  by  its  own  peculiar  paramo ;  marked  on  its  south- 
ern side  by  the  mazy  current  of  the  dull  Gallinazo,  and  far- 
ther north,  Orcana,  east  of  which  the  lofty  paramo  forms 
a  long  receding  curve,  whose  horns  are  eastward.  From 
the  northern  side  of  this  vast  curvature,  which  is  the  loftiest 
of  the  region,  the  snow-capped  Nevada  of  Santa  Marta  rises 
above  the  clouds,  in  nearly  a  northern  direction,  casting  bold 
shadows  as  the  noon  is  distant  in  the  advance  or  retirement 
of  the  planet  of  day,  over  forests,  cliffs,  and  countless  rivers, 
which  flow  eastward  to  the  lake  of  Maracaibo  or  the  ocean, 
and  on  the  west  into  the  Magdalena,  holding  in  temperate 
richness  and  beauty  the  valley  Du  Par,  and  those  fertile 
plains  which  must,  ere  long,  become  the  seat  of  a  rich  agri- 
culture, and  an  innumerable  population. 

Returning  to  the  point  of  view,  the  line  of  the  river  Ta- 
chira  on  one  side,  and  the  Sulia  on  the  other,  mark  the  north- 
east features  of  the  magnificent  groups,  which  take  the  dis- 
criminative names  of  the  Sierra  of  Gritja,  Pedraza,  Merida, 
and  Truxillo,  over  and  along  which  we  had  travelled  ;  while 
to  the  south  the  chains  take  the  names  of  Almozadera,  Pam- 
plona, Chita,  Zoraca,  Chisga,  Guachenuque,  and  Chingasa, 
significantly  called  also  the  ridge  of  the  winds ;  besides  nu- 
merous others,  which  take  the  names  of  towns  or  cities  con- 
tiguous. 

44 


346  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

When  we  gained  the  proud  eminence,  the  prospect  coH' 
tinned  to  offer  objects  more  sublime  and  new  ;  the  forests 
again  began  to  appear  and  thrust  aside  the  rocks,  or  cast  a 
green  veil  over  their  rude  deformities  ;  light  and  shade  were 
here  accidentally  caught  in  agreeable  unity  ;  and  the  glit- 
tering cliffs,  relieved  by  the  softened  verdure,  made  the  pic- 
tures at  once  beautiful  and  sublime ;  and  in  some  instances, 
which  were  not  rare,  where  the  vast  faces  of  steep  rocks  had 
been  bared  to  the  winds  of  heaven,  they  sometimes  pro- 
duced, from  accidental  lines  of  dilapidation  by  the  atmos- 
phere, forms,  like  vast  ranges  of  fairy  jialaces  or  structures, 
such  as  might  have  been  originally  formed  by  the  Titans  and 
the  Giants,  whom  the  poets  and  mythologists  have  made  to 
aspire  to  scale  heaven.  This  was  not  the  only  impression 
acting  upon  the  imagination.  In  another  place,  from  posi- 
tions more  elevated,  when  the  atmosphere  was  clear,  and  the 
light  gleaming  obliquely  over  the  distance,  the  scene  ap- 
peared to  bear  a  kind  of  flatness  or  depression,  with  shadows 
here  and  there,  but  more  fantastical  than  the  shades  upon  a 
well-executed  map,  spreading  their  immensity  so  broad  and 
vast  that  the  head  became  dizzy,  as  if  on  a  precipice,  and  the 
pulsation  became  quicker,  from  surprise  and  pleasure  :  such 
a  vision  was  not  durable ;  a  change  of  light  destroyed  the 
whole  scene,  and  revealed  the  really  broken  and  wild  aspect, 
which  a  nearer  approach  realized. 

I  had  loitered  unconsciously  behind  on  this  occasion, 
which  rarely  happened,  and  when  I  awoke  from  this  trance 
of  the  senses,  I  had  to  hurry  along  down  the  sloping  and 
rugged  ravines,  which  the  caprice  of  nature  had  formed,  and 
man,  not  less  capricious,  had  converted  into  a  road  to  the 
valley  of  Cucuta  ;  where,  as  if  some  of  those  genii,  who  live 
in  romance,  had  determined  to  sport  with  the  susceptibility 
already  produced,  presented  among  a  diversity  of  streams  of 
limpid  water  wrestling  over  the  pebbles  of  the  valley,  a  stream 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  347 

SO  full  and  gently  flowing,  and  so  exacdy  coloured,  as  to 
seem  a  river  of  milk ;  we  crossed  it,  but  its  chalky  colour 
only  indicated  the  resemblance,  the  valley  was  too  warm  for 
the  play  of  the  imagination ;  and  we  soon  entered  the  peb- 
bled bed  of  the  Tachira,  which  spread  over  the  opening 
space  in  numerous  rivulets.  This  was  the  boundary,  and 
the  Tachira  the  line  which  separated  the  jurisdictions  of  the 
Viceroyalty  of  New  Granada  and  the  Captain -generalcy  of 
Caracas, — a  boundary  which  no  longer  exists  politically,  for, 
by  the  new  distribution  of  departments,  provinces,  and  can- 
tons, it  now  takes  a  different  arrangement.  St.  Antonio  and 
Rosario  de  Cucuta,  which  the  Tachira  separated,  are  no  long- 
er under  different  jurisdictions  ;  they  belong  to  the  Intend- 
ancy  of  Boyacca,  province  of  Pamplona,  and  form  part  of  the 
same  canton. 

We  reached  Antonio  de  Cucuta  about  four  o'clock,  and 
the  descent  was  so  fatiguing,  that  we  entered  a  well  looking 
pulpureia^  where  we  rested  an  hour ;  and  had  some  oppor- 
tunity to  remark  that  there  was  already  an  evident  difference 
of  manners,  an  appearance  of  regular  industry,  the  houses 
more  lofty  and  better  constructed.  We  thought  it  becoming 
to  purchase  some  articles  merely  to  apologize  for  our  intru- 
sion, but  the  female  of  the  house,  who  had  been  industrious- 
ly occupied  in  rolling  cigars,  while  she  spoke  and  even  ask- 
ed questions  without  interrupting  her  work,  or  abating  her 
civility,  said  it  was  not  necessary  we  should  purchase  any 
thing,  as  we  had  paid  her  a  compliment  in  preferring  her 
house  to  rest ;  she  directed  a  girl  to  procure  what  we  want- 
ed, some  good  fruit  and  some  sugar.  We  had  been  pre- 
viously, at  our  departure  from  Caracas,  apprized  that  the  sil- 
ver currency  of  Venezuela  called  Maquitina  would  pass  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Tachira  only,  and  would  not  be  receiv- 
ed on  the  west  side ;  we  had  provided  by  estimation  Maqui- 
tina sufficient  for  the  journey,  and  had  guessed  pretty  well, 
for  we  had  not  much  unspent;  it  was  received,  however, 
but  with  an  intimation  that  it  would  not  be  received  at  the 


348  VISIT    TO     COLOMBIA. 

Other  side  of  the  river,  and  was  not  much  desired  here— 
though,  as  strangers,  she  would  oblige  us.  The  ideas  con- 
cerning  money  here,  though  in  a  rude  state  of  society,  com- 
pared with  countries  highly  commercial,  take  a  more  ration- 
al direction  than  in  other  places.  At  Caracas  the  Doubloon 
varies  in  exchange  for  silver  from  seventeen  to  eighteen  dol- 
lars and  a  half;  though  there  is  some  knavery  in  this  varia- 
tion of  the  relation  between  two  kinds  of  money,  as  the  true 
relation  is  sixteen  of  silver  for  one  of  gold,  of  the  standard 
twenty-two  carats  fine  ;  the  principal  cause  is  the  established 
abuse  covered  by  this  wretched  currency  called  Maquitina, 
It  is  in  shape  as  the  varieties  of  angular  pieces  into  which  a 
coin  less  than  a  quarter  dollar  may  be  cut ;  giving  one  round 
edge  and  two  sharp-angled  sides — from  which  the  West  In- 
dian term  bit  is  derived  ;  the  maquitina  consisting  of  such 
bits,  and  these  take  the  denomination  of  the  parts  of  a  dollar, 
as  the  real,  or  eighth  of  a  dollar,  or  twelve  and  half  cents  ;  the 
mediay  or  half  real ;  the  quartilla,  or  quarter  real.  This  vicious 
currency  is  very  impure.  It  is,  in  other  transactions  than 
small  retails,  put  up  in  bags  of  ten,  twenty,  or  any  round 
number  to  an  hundred  dollars ;  the  sum  is  rated  by  the  cur- 
rent denomination  ;  but  as  one  real  may  be  cut  into  five  in- 
stead of  four  bits,  and  each  bit  passes  for  a  fourth,  instead 
of  a  fifth,  the  value  in  tale,  tested  by  the  value  of  the  pure 
coin  in  weight,  may  amount  to  an  average  loss  of  one  fifth,  or 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  per  cent.  :  when  doubloons,  therefore, 
are  sought  or  given,  this  vicious  currency  makes  the  differ- 
ence in  appreciation  ;  and  that  it  should  be  less  than  twenty 
per  cent,  arises  from  the  circumstance,  that  all  the  bits  are  not 
deficient ;  though,  from  my  own  observation,  they  are  much 
more  so  than  is  generally  supposed.  Generally  one  hun- 
dred hard  dollars,  if  exchanged  for  Alaquitina  at  the  current 
estimation,  will  not  be  worth  seventy-five  dollars  tested  by 
weight  and  purity.  It  may  be  said,  that  this  usage  being 
established,  and  no  one  appearing  dissatisfied  at  being  so 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  340 

cheated,  the  fraud  becomes  innocent ;  so  it  was  attempted 
to  be  justified  to  me  by  one  of  the  concerned ;  but  it  must 
be  obvious,  that  it  is,  when  sanctioned  or  tolerated  by  a  go- 
vernment, and  institutions  estabHshed  and  supported  by  go- 
vernment for  the  support  of  this  fraudulent  currency,  it  is  a 
connivance  in  favour  of  the  opulent  to  the  plunder  of  the 
poor — it  is  privilege  for  the  knowing  gambler  to  cheat  the 
ignorant  and  unsuspicious. 

In  treating  of  the  money  and  mint  of  Colombia,  I  may 
probably  take  some  farther  notice  of  this  pernicious  curren- 
cy;  which  requires  of  the  government,  in  justice  to  its  own 
clj^aracter,  and  the  interests  which  it  is  their  duty  under  a 
representative  government  to  protect,  to  apply  an  effective 
remedy,  which,  reinforced  by  the  banking  system  so  unfitly 
and  unfortunately  introduced,  may  entail  evils  not  less  af- 
flicting to  the  public  and  to  families,  than  the  thraldom 
which  the  revolution  has  destroyed. 

After  resting  at  Antonia  de  Cucuta,  and  chatting  with  the 
agreeable  people  who  lived  in  the  house,  and  who  came  in 
actuated  by  a  curiosity  no  way  impertinent  nor  unpleasant, 
we  crossed  the  pnncipal  stream  of  the  Tachira,  and  reached 
Rosario  de  Cucuta  about  half-past  five  o'clock,  being  the 
10th  January. 

The  alcalde,  here,  was  not  to  be  found.  I  dispatched  the 
sergeant  to  St.  Joseph,  the  head  quarters  of  the  military 
commandant,  and  sent  by  him  the  letter  of  General  Clemen- 
te,  and  the  sergeant  returned,  before  it  was  yet  night,  with 
an  order  to  provide  us  with  the  best  accommodations  of  the 
city,  and  whatever  we  should  else  require.  We  were  ac- 
cordingly conducted  to  as  good  a  house  as  there  was  in  Cu- 
cuta, in  sight  of  the  Plaza  ;  where  we  had  ample  and  com- 
fortable accommodations.  It  had  been  the  house  of  Pedro  So- 
po,  a  French  gentleman  long  resident  there,  but  who  having 
attached  himself  to  the  Bourbons,  fled,  and  the  property  was 
confiscated.  The  house  was  in  the  usual  oriental  style, 
with  an  ample  patio^  good  lodging  apartments,  spare  rooms 


3^0  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

for  accommodation ;  a  very  spacious  interior  corridor  and 
dining  room,  and  a  private  chamber  lighted  from  the  street. 
The  cocineria  was  out  of  sight,  but  with  abundant  room, 
and  though  it  had  suffered  from  the  confiscation,  there  re- 
mained evidence  that  Part  de  viver  had  due  homage  under 
its  original  possessor,  though  the  stew-holes  were  now  nei- 
ther whole  nor  cleanlv.  In  the  spacious  yard  or  area,  to  the 
rear  of  all,  there  stood  by  much  the  largest  tamarind  I  had 
ever  seen.  In  Bengal  the  tamarind  tree  rarely  rises  to  fif- 
teen feet  high,  nor  its  stem  to  more  than  four  or  five  inches 
diameter  ;  this  beautiful  tree  was  between  forty  and  fifty  feet, 
and  the  stem  twenty-two  inches  diameter,  at  four  feet  from 
the  ground.  It  was  clustering  in  fine  fruit,  abundant,  but 
not  yet  ripe. 

This  valley  rivals  Barquisimeto,  in  the  richness  of  its 
soil,  the  number  of  its  plantations  of  cacao,  coffee,  sugar ; 
and  the  usual  products  of  the  warm  climates,  oranges,  le- 
mons, limes,  pine-apples,  and  the  numerous  fruit  of  the 
country,  were  here  in  the  utmost  perfection  and  abundance, 
though  the  mountains  appear  wild  and  savage. 


iU 


351 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

ilosarlo  de  Cucuta — rich  country — cultivators — changes — incidents  at  Cucuta— 
the  Indians,  excellent  husbandmen  and  labourers — g-o  to  a  fandango— mi- 
nute account  of — column  of  troops — an  interview — departure — Valley  of  De- 
solation— an  inhospitable  occurrence — ascend  a  dreary  road — Post  house  at 
Saltikal — cold,  comfortless  night — depart  early  witliout  food — Alanadero — 
ascend  a  luxuriant  mountain — bivouac  and  sleep — Indian  population — enter 
Indian  cottage — kindness — feast — Chopo — fine  cabbages — adventure  and  de- 
parture— Witches  in  a  fog — Pamplona — first  impressions — source  of  the  Sulia 
— antipatiiy  to  fires. 

The  road,  after  crossing  the  Tachira,  and  leading  to  Ro- 
sario  de  Cucuta,  which  is  something  more  than  two  miles 
distant,  is  luxuriant  and  fertile.  The  forest  trees  are  loft}^ 
like  those  of  all  the  warm  valleys.  The  parroquets,  in  nu- 
merous flocks,  flit  across  and  along  the  woods,  and  give  an 
infallible  indication,  by  their  discordant  screams,  of  the  pre- 
sence of  cacao  plantations  ;  they  are  never  separate,  it  would 
appear.  Sugar-mills  and  refineries  abound  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, and  their  riches  are  evident  in  the  magnitude  of 
the  structures  for  the  conservation  of  the  productions,  as 
well  as  in  the  fashion  and  size  of  the  dwellings.  The  effects 
of  war  were  indeed  evident,  but  it  was  also  evident  that  na- 
ture was  too  bountiful,  and  the  people  here  too  industrious 
and  numerous,  for  those  effects  to  remain  very  long  visible. 
Every  thing  was  already  in  movement,  and  the  proverbial 
gaiety  of  the  population  was  palpable,  though  not  so  much 
so  in  Rosario  as  in  Antonio,  and  the  rural  habitations.  The 
mills  here  were  the  best  I  had  seen  since  I  left  San  Mateo. 
The  families  of  palm  trees  were  here  more  numerous  than  I 
had  before  seen  them  on  this  journey,  and  more  flourishing, 
giving  an  oriental  aspect,  at  least  to  my  perceptions,  and 
mude  the  landscape  very  much  more  agreeable  than  other- 
wise it  would  be  to  me. 


352  VISIT   T(3   COLOMIIIA. 

Rosario  is  not  so  extensive  nor  so  busy  a  scene  as  Anto- 
nio dc  Cucuta.  The  streets  are  much  wider  than  at  the  latter, 
though  both  have  the  usual  excellent  pavement.  The  streets 
here  do  not  exceed  twenty-five  feet,  and  the  houses  are  not 
generally  so  spacious,  though  there  are  apparently  more  of 
two  stories.  The  stillness  of  the  towns  in  such  a  country, 
at  this  season,  is  by  no  means  an  evidence  of  its  want  of  po- 
pulation. The  plantations  afford  more  enjoyment  and  agree- 
able occupation;  it  is  as  quiet  every  day  as  Philadelphia  of 
a  Sunday,  but  very  unlike  Philadelphia  at  night.  After  ele- 
ven, in  Philadelphia,  the  only  evidence  of  a  town  to  the 
hearing,  is  the  occasional  drone  of  the  watchman  calling  the 
hours.  In  Cucuta,  the  evening  sets  in  with  the  buzzing  noise 
of  a  gay,  prattling,  moving  crowd.  The  streets  are  all  alive, 
and  the  Plaza  Mayor,  which  is  a  spacious  and  beautiful  carpet 
of  short  grass,  on  which,  if  the  moon  shines,  as  it  happened 
to  do  when  we  were  there,  the  space  appears  alive  with  a 
playful  population ;  the  guitar,  the  tambour,  and  the  mara- 
ca,  or  cadence  calabash,  are  heard  on  every  side,  as  if  the  peo- 
ple, dead  all  day,  had  risen  to  dance  and  sing  all  night.  I  had 
been  impressed  with  other  ideas,  by  perusing  some  writ- 
ings of  Palacio  Faxar ;  and  my  observations  in  this  place 
afforded  me,  upon  a  comparison  with  his  account,  proof  that 
the  revolution  had  already  antiquated  his  account  of  Cucuta, 
which  is  to  be  found  in  the  third  volume  of  the  British  Jour- 
nal of  Sciences,  p.  337  ;  for,  although  there  can  be  no 
doubt  of  the  truth  of  his  written  descriptions,  published  in' 
1817,  those  descriptions  would  not  now  in  many  cases  apply  ; 
and,  from  what  I  have  seen  there  and  elsewhere,  I  feel  per- 
suaded, that,  as  has  happened  in  the  United  States  since  the  re- 
volution, the  accounts  which  may  now  be  given  of  the  w^ealth, 
population,  arts,  society  and  manners,  will  so  continue  to  change 
in  successive  periods,  as  that  the  account  of  any  one  antecedent 
period  of  three  or  four  years  will  not  be  suitable  to  describe, 
the  circumstances  at  any  subsequent.     The  face  of  nature 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  358 

/ 

and  its  grand  anatomy,  the  climate,  and  its  riches,  will  be  of 
the  same  character ;  but  all  things  that  depend  upon  institu- 
tion must  undergo  a  still  more  extraordinary  change  and 
amelioration  than  the  United  States,  because  nature  has  done 
more  for  Colombia,  and  man  has  yet  every  thing  to  do : 
indeed  the  old  institutions  appear  to  have  been  intended  to 
retard  rather  than  to  profit  by  the  bounties  of  nature. 

Our  quarters  were  contiguous  to  the  south-west  angle  of 
the  Plaza  Mayor,  and  the  house  was  very  spacious ;  the 
pavement  which  sloped  from  the  corridore  into  the  patio, 
shewed  the  name  of  Sop o,  and  the  date  of  the  building,  as 
I  supposed,  which  were  displayed  in  round  white  pebbles 
on  a  ground  of  blue.  An  aged  female  mulatto,  whose  limbs, 
though  lusty,  appeared  too  feeble  to  sustain  the  volume  of 
material  flesh  and  blood  and  bacon,  which  she  carried  about 
her  not  very  well  concealed,  had  taken  possession  of  the  kit- 
chen, that  she  occupied  since  the  flight  of  her  master,  and 
which,  she  said,  she  meant  to  hold  till  he  returned,  or  she 
should  die ;  the  remainder  of  her  story  was  an  eulogy,  and 
by  good  accounts  a  well  merited  one,  on  the  generosity  and 
kind-heartedness  of  Serior  Sopo;  she  had  no  comfort  now 
but  in  doing  as  he  did,  shewing  every  kindness  in  his 
power  to  the  passing  stranger,  and  his  neighbours  all  around. 
Repulsive  as  her  loose  attire  and  looser  flesh  were,  the  con. 
solement  of  her  being  heard  and  permitted  to  speak  of  her 
former  master's  virtues,  was  evident ;  and  it  was  not  possi- 
ble but  to  sympathise  with  her,  when  her  feelings,  overcome, 
found  vent  in  a  flood  of  tears. 

We  had  notified  the  alcalde  that  we  proposed  to  depart  the 
next  day,  and  requested  mules,  which  he  promised  a  la  mana- 
na,  but  that  mafiana  was  succeeded  by  another ;  the  sergeant 
equipped  in  his  full  regimentals,  grenadier's  cap,  and  a  bright- 
hiked  sabre,  I  dispatched  to  the  superior  officer  of  the  district, 
whose  residence  was  at  San  Jose,  about  four  miles  north. 
I  addressed  him  a  note,  with  some  papers,  that  were  calcu- 

45 


354  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

lated  to  obtain  his  attention,  and  he  returned  a  very  flatteT- 
ing  answer,  with  an  intimation  of  dissatisfaction  at  the  ne- 
gligence of  the  alcalde,  signifying  to  him  by  letter  that  it  was 
not  the  first  time,  and  that  notice  would  be  taken  of  it.  A 
peremptory  order  accompanied,  to  furnish  whatever  mules 
we  required,  and  any  thing  else  the  country  afforded  which 
we  stood  in  need  of. 

This  city  will  be  ever  memorable  as  the  place  in  which 
the  constituent  congress  of  Colombia  formed  the  constitution 
in  1820-21 — by  which  that  union  was  confirmed  that  had 
its  basis  in  i\\t  fundamental  law  promulged  at  Angostura  in 
1819.  This  paper,  as  well  as  that  of  the  same  title  enacted 
in  this  place  by  congress  in  1821,  will  be  found  in  the  Ap- 
pendix, (No.  I.  II.)  as  they  are  very  frequently  referred  to, 
and  sometimes  confounded  with  the  constitutions. 

Seiior  Palacio,  in  his  notices  on  the  valleys  of  Cucuta, 
which  are,  in  some  particulars  that  relate  to  the  country,  true 
at  this  day,  but  have,  in  other  respects,  undergone  a  total 
change — says,  "  the  native  Indians  of  Cucuta  are  a  de- 
graded, poor,  neglected,  almost  forgotten  race  of  beings, 
which  is  indeed  the  case  of  the  whole  race  of  Indians,"  and 
he  generously  suggests  what  should  be  done  to  restore  them 
to  the  condition  of  men.  The  revolution  has  gone  farther 
than  the  benevolent  wishes  of  the  amiable  patriot.  AH  that 
existed,  connected  with  labour  and  the  disparity  of  condition, 
has  disappeared.  The  Indian  is  a  citizen,  and  negro  slavery 
has  nearly  ceased.  The  Indians  are  no  longer  degraded, 
poor,  or  forgotten  ;  they  compose  the  great  mass  of  labour- 
ers  now,  and  very  few  of  African  descent  are  to  be  found  ; 
and  I  say  here,  lest  I  should  overlook  it  in  the  multitude  of 
facts  that  every  where  crowd  upon  the  discerning  observer, 
that  I  have  no  where  known  better  labourers,  men  who  work 
with  more  earnestness  wherever  I  have  seen  them  employed ; 
no  men  in  any  country  work  with  more  apparent  earnest- 
n^s  and  contcntedness ;  and  no  where  have  I  witnessed  such 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  355 

heavy  burdens  borne  as  by  the  aborigines,  men  and  women, 
in  all  parts  of  Colombia  that  I  have  visited.  Indeed  I 
have  not  any  where  known  people  so  uniformly  muscular,  and 
whose  bodies  and  limbs  indicated  more  strength.  I  have  not 
been  much  among  the  tribes  called  uncivilized,  but  speak  of 
those  whom  I  have  found  in  the  cities  and  on  the  highways, 
whose  huts  I  have  visited,  and  whose  labouriousness  and 
contentment,  and  consciousness  of  the  freedom  to  which 
they  are  restored,  manifests  itself  in  their  conduct,  and  their 
eagerness  to  bestow  kindness  and  good  offices.  _^ 

In  this  climate  the  nights  are  delicious — the  industrious 
classes,  as  well  as  the  opulent,  enjoy  them  ;  the  latter  in  their 
ample  halls ;  the  former  under  the  more  ample  canopy  of 
of  heaven.  On  the  great  square,  which  our  quarters  over- 
looked, the  evening  gray  light  never  escaped  before  the 
groups  of  both  sexes  assembled,  and  the  music  of  their 
guitars,  and  other  stringed  instruments  peculiar  to  the  coun- 
try, were  heard  like  distant  serenades.  Soon  a  more  em- 
phatic, but  less  harmonious  cadence  was  heard ;  it  was  the 
indication  of  the  dance  ;  ihc  fandango,  various  dances  called 
JbliaSf  the  bolero,  or  pas  seul,  the  capuchin,  and  the  galeron. 
Of  these  I  have  been  a  spectator  in  different  places ;  here  I  saw 
ov\y  xht  galeron,  M'hich  was  not  exactly  such  as  is  described 
by  Palacio.  On  one  evening  of  many,  I  walked  with  Eliza- 
beth to  see  one  of  those  dancing  parties,  and  wearing  straw 
hats  like  all  the  group,  and  otherwise  plain  in  our  apparel, 
had  a  full  opportunity  to  see  the  whole  group,  and  to  ob- 
serve their  pastime.  Though  the  moon  was  high  and 
bright,  there  were  numerous  tapers.  The  tones  of  th6  gui- 
tar were  suspended ;  and  the  cadence  of  the  macara  took 
its  place.  This  instrument  is  nothing  more  than  a  ripe  ca- 
labash, from  which  the  internal  substance  had  been  extract- 
ed so  as  to  leave  the  firm  shell  clean  and  hard.  Some  seeds 
of  maize  are  placed  in  the  shell ;  the  neck  stopped,  and  this 
constitutes  the  macara  to  which  the  galeron  was  danced,  as 


956  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

I  shall  describe  it.     The  sounds  being  the  repetition  of  a 
few  simple  notes,  which,  though  rude  in  the  manner  of  pro 
duction  and  emphasis,  admitted  of  a  regular  cadence. 

A  sprightly  lass  of  about  sixteen,  attired  in  a  handsome  bas- 
quina  of  black,  (a  sort  of  gown  and  petticoat,)  as  soon  as  the 
circle  was  formed  and  the  macara  began  to  play,  moved 
airily  into  the  arena,  and  commenced  a  series  of  evolutions  in 
mazy  circles ;  she  held  the  side  skirt  of  her  hasquina^  and  her 
body  and  neck  made  many  graceful  inflections  as  she  ap- 
peared to  swim  over  the  surface ;  for  no  foot  or  step  was 
perceptible,  and  her  action  seemed  to  be  like  that  of  a  figure 
suspended  by  a  cord  in  the  air,  only  that  there  was  grace 
and  ease  and  pleasure  in  the  movement.  This  was  the 
characteristic  mode  of  all  the  females  who  succeeded ;  the 
order  I  shall  now  describe  :  the  first  sefiorita  who  entered 
had  been  but  two  or  three  minutes  in  motion  when  a  gallant 
mozo^  or  youth,  in  a  short  blue  cotton  coat,  osnaburg  trow- 
sers,  and  good  leather  shoes,  moved  into  the  circle ;  the 
young  lady's  hasquhia  appeared  to  corroborate  the  sarcasm, 
that  ladies  have  no  feet ;  she  sailed  round  the  arena,  and  he 
pursued,  in  good  time,  and  with  some  movements  which 
we  should  call  steps ;  she  fled  in  mazes,  and  he  followed  in 
cadence ;  till,  suddenly,  the  damsel  escaped  into  the  crowd, 
leaving  the  pursuer  to  dance  alone  ;  but  another  female,  of 
about  the  same  age,  in  a  calico  garment,  entered  the  lists  ; 
her  basquina,  however,  was  not  so  low  as  to  conceal  that  she 
danced  in  her  wedding-stockings ;  she  too  sailed  with  no  less 
ease  than  if  she  had  the  wings  and  the  balance  of  a  hovering 
kite,  who  was  about  to  pounce  upon  a  chicken ;  she  had  made 
but  a  few  turns,  when  the  youth  sprung  from  the  circle  ;  and 
another  young  "  squire  of  low  degree,"  put  his  best  foot  fore- 
most, and  commenced  the  pursuit  of  the  deserted  and  now 
flying  nymph  ;  thus  performing  movements  for  which  they 
have  a  nomenclature  as  significant  as  those  who  boast  of 
higher  science  ;  their  los  racesy  or  retirings ;  their  movemiento 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  357 

contrario ;  their  paso  chaseo^  &c.  This  dance,  from  the  rude 
examples  here  displayed,  had  something  pantomimic,  a  sort 
of  ballet  of  action  with  a  subject,  in  \\  hich  transactions  of 
life  were  intended  to  be  depictured  by  a  sort  of  allegory  ; 
some  of  the  persons  appeared  to  act  a  part,  to  repel  approach, 
and  to  fly  from  pursuit,  to  evade  and  to  disappoint ;  disdain 
and  repulsion,  solicitation,  and  flattery  on  the  other  side ; 
the  flight  being  alternate,  and  the  pursuit  as  the  sexes  entered 
on  the  arena,  she  flying  upon  wings  concealed  beneath  her 
basquina;  he  sometimes  in  his  only  shirt  and  pantaloons, 
clean  washed,  the  tails  of  that  shirt  displaying  the  needle- 
work, in  coloured  threads,  perhaps  of  the  dulcinea  after 
whom  he  travels  in  the  mazy  dance,  with  or  without  shoes, 
for  it  is  about  ten  to  one  that  there  are  many  in  the  company. 
I  was  figuring  in  my  mind  some  comparisons  of  the  galeron 
with  the  rural  dances  of  some  other  countries,  and  commu- 
nicating my  comparisons  to  Elizabeth,  who  held  me  by  the 
arm,  when,  to  our  mutual  surprise  and  amusement,  our 
Caraca?iian  valet,  Fmcente^  equipped  in  his  best  shirt  and 
breeches,  "  made  a  leg"  to  the  coquette  on  the  tapis,  from 
whom  her  squire  had  just  escaped.  It  was  clear  that  Vin- 
cente  had  determined  to  sustain  the  reputation  of  Caracas, 
and  to  defend  its  superiority  against  all  comers  ;  and,  as  in 
other  places,  there  is  a  kind  of  merit  in  dancing  long,  as  in 
dancing  well,  Vincente  would  not  give  way,  but  would  pur- 
sue the  lass  who  had  commenced  the  pursuit  of  him  :  Vin- 
cente was,  though  not  so  robust  as  his  countrymen  gene- 
rally, a  well  built  fellow,  and  he  was  perhaps  the  best  dressed 
man  in  the  company ;  the  fair  one  he  encountered— for  she 
was  as  fair  as  himself — appeared  disposed  to  dispute  the 
ground  by  time,  as  well  as  execution  ;  but  she  was  obliged  to 
abandon  the  field ;  only  to  afford  a  heroine  more  disciplined 
to  renew  the  encounter ;  and  he,  who  had  triumphed  over 
the  ariero  of  Valencia,  was  compelled,  like  other  great  he- 
roes, to  strike  to  a  damsel,  in  a  somewhat  worn   green 


858  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

basquina,  who  fairly  danced  liim  out  of  the  ring,  to  the  great 
admiration  of  the  laughter-loving  gay  paisanas  of  Cucuta. 

We  came  away  certainly  without  any  reason  to  be  dissatis- 
fied with  the  pleasures  of  these  innocent  people.  The  deco- 
rum which  prevailed  uniformly ;  the  decent  respect  towards 
each  other ;  the  general  desire  so  conspicuous  to  please  and 
be  pleased,  was  truly  agreeable.  I  have  not  seen  many  coun- 
tries in  which  a  corresponding  class  could  meet  and  part  so 
rationally,  and  without  any  cause  of  dissatisfaction ;  I  have 
seen  such  assemblies  in  other  countries  disturbed  by  rude- 
ness or  vulgarity,  or  by  some  of  those  who,  presuming  to  be 
their  superiors,  deemed  enjoyments  and  recreation  an  invasion 
upon  the  privileges  of  a  degree  more  elevated :  there  was 
nothing  of  this  nature  at  Cucuta  ;  indeed,  in  the  whole  tour 
I  have  seen  nothing  of  quarrels  or  indecorum,  but  real  happi- 
ness in  these  little  rural  parties. 

On  the  evening  of  the  13th,  a  column  of  infantry  altoge- 
ther about  one  thousand  effectives,  passed  by  our  quarters, 
being  on  their  route  to  join  Gen.  Urdaneta.  The  troops 
were  very  well  equipped,  and,  as  they  marched  on  the  diagonal 
of  the  square,  appeared  to  advantage.  After  dusk  some  offi- 
cers were  passing  well  mounted,  one  of  them  addressed  me 
in  English,  enquiring  for  the  alcalde ;  I  replied  with  a  sol- 
dier's familiar  tone,  that  he  had  better  take  up  his  quarters 
where  we  were,  first,  and  look  for  the  alcalde  afterwards,  as 
the  house  was  ample  enough  to  afford  quarters  for  the  staff 
of  the  column.  He  adopted  the  advice,  rode  at  once  into 
the  patio  with  his  companions ;  we  furnished  lights,  and 
whatever  else  we  could,  and  the  establishment  was  complete. 

It  was  Dr.  Mayne,  a  respectable  physician  attached  to  the 
army,  a  fine  manly  figure,  and  a  jovial  soul ;  who  handed  me 
an  immense  powder  horn,  requesting  me  to  taste,  and  which 
I  found,  instead  of  gunpowder,  loaded  with  Holland  gin. 
After  exchanging  our  news,  we  parted ;  he  moved  in  the 
morning.     He  has  married  in  Colombia  since. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  359 

We  left  Cucuta  the  14th  of  January,  at  half  past  eleven. 
There  are  two  roads,  one  north  through  San  Jose,  and  the 
other  west,  which,  being  not  so  circuitous  by  three  or  four 
miles,  the  sergeant  injudiciously  preferred.  We  passed  a  mazy 
course,  leading  through  a  valley  which  presented  the  wildest 
picture  of  nature  in  disorder,  that  I  ever  witnessed.  We  had 
not  anticipated  such  a  prospect,  much  less  the  hazard  and 
difficulty  of  passing  through  it.  Our  steps  could  not  be 
chosen,  and  the  sagacity  of  the  mule  was  our  only  security. 
The  bottom  of  the  valley,  as  well  as  both  sides,  presented 
such  a  state  of  disorder  as  would  induce  a  presumption  that 
there  had  been  some  recent  subterranean  explosion  through- 
out the  three  tedious  miles  of  its  length  ;  the  rocks  of  every 
magnitude  appeared  as  if  newly  torn  asunder,  and  left  in  the 
positions  we  found  them,  ready  at  every  step  to  roll  from 
their  impending  positions  towards  the  lower  fragments,  over 
which  our  poor  mules  scrambled  with  evident  pain,  but 
admirable  patience.  We  very  soon  regretted  that  we  had 
not  paid  our  respects  to  the  officer  at  San  Jose ;  but  we  at 
length  gained  a  smooth  sandy  level,  Avhich,  with  the  aptitude 
of  mankind  to  forget  their  pains  when  succeeded  by  plea- 
sures, we  soon  left  behind,  and  perhaps  enjoyed  the  subse- 
quent part  of  the  day's  journey  with  the  more  satisfaction. 

About  half  after  four,  the  country  assumed  a  singular  and 
luxuriant  appearance  ;  a  small  river  skirted  by  sloping  banks, 
like  scarp  and  counter-scarp  of  a  military  fosse,  and 
regular  as  if  wrought  by  the  direction  of  an  engineer,  formed 
the  side  of  the  route,  on  the  upper  level  of  which  we  travel- 
led, about  forty  feet  above  the  margin  of  the  stream.  We 
soon  entered  a  closer  woody  region,  and  a  narrow  humid 
lane  to  the  south,  into  which  we  had  advanced  about  half  a 
mile,  when  the  sergeant  suddenly  wheeled  to  the  left,  and 
plunged  into  another  descending  lane,  and  galloped  through  a 
dark  overshaded  thicket,  but  with  a  clear  path.  We  followed 
implicitly,  and  very  soon  gained  an  opening,  where  stood  a 


360  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

very  spacious  hacienda^  and  adjoining  it  a  handsome  churcli. 
We  rode  up  to  the  hacienda^  and  dismounted. 

This  place  was  in  charge  of  an  overseer,  who  sat  on  his 
bench  immoveable  as  the  bust  of   the  saint  over  the  church 
door.     Upon  being  civilly  addressed,  and  requested  to  afford 
mere  lodging,  and  for  which  we  should  pay  what  he  might 
require,  he  declined  permission  in  a  very  coarse  style.     We 
were  still  standing  below,  when  the  sergeant  returned  with 
the  refusal.     It  was  not  prudent,  if  it  were  practicable,  to 
pursue  our  route  at  so  late  an  hour.     I  enquired  of  some  of 
the  domestics  where  the  curate  or  clergyman  belonging  to 
the  church  lived ;  the  surly  boor  forbid  the  domestic  to  an- 
swer; and  the  poor  fellow  retired,  distinctly  muttering  "Go(/a." 
For  the  moment  the  expression  did  not  strike  me.     Some 
letters  had  been  placed  in  my  hands,  ai^d  one  for  the  owner 
of  this  place  ;  I  took  it,  and  handed  it  to  this  boorish  agent ; 
but  either  he  could  not  or  would  not  read.     Night  was  at 
hand,  and   I  undertook   to  civilly  remonstrate,  that  it  was 
impossible   to  proceed  farther  that  night ;   that  we  wanted 
nothing  but  a  place  to  rest  in  our  own  hammocks,  and  would 
be  content  to  sleep  in  the  corridor.    He  seemed  immoveable. 
A  conduct  so  uniike  any  thing  I  had  seen  or  heard  of  in  the 
country,  so  unlike  the  proverbial  civility  and  hospitality  ex- 
perienced every  where  else,  was  mortifying.     I  remonstrated 
again,  and  signified  that  I  should  represent  his  conduct  to 
his  superiors  ;  he  then  retired.   I  followed  along  the  spacious 
gallery,  saw  several  ample   vacant  rooms,  and  ordered  the 
domestics  to  bring  up  our  baggage,  and  desired  the  sergeant  to 
see  to  forage  for  the  mules,  and  secure  them  in  a  coral  for 
the  night.    A  household  servant  was  requested  to  bring  some 
fresh  water,  and  was  about  to  do  so  kindly,  when  she  was 
scolded  and  forbidden.     The  hammocks  were  now  hung 
up,  our  trunks  placed  in  view ;  and  Pedro  passed  to  the  usual 
fire-place,  to  prepare  our  chocolate,  and  cook  our  repast, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  361 

which  it  was  very  visible  afforded  much  amusement  to  the 
domestics,  who  were  numerous.  We  had  some  wax  candles, 
which  are  often  convenient  for  travellers  in  such  circumstances, 
and  the  sergeant  lighted  a  couple ;  and  we  sat  some  time 
talking  or  reading,  and,  indeed,  joking  at  this  unusual  inhos- 
pitality. 

The  surly  boor  who  had  behaved  in  this  ungenerous  man- 
ner, now  found  the  use  of  his  tongue,  and  approached  us  in 
a  manner  so  mean  and  servile,  that  I  repaid  him  by  a  con- 
temptuous silence.  The  sergeant,  more  a  man  of  the  world, 
rallied  him,  and  accepted  for  himself  the  eggs  and  fruit, 
which  had  been  tendered  to  us,  and  refused ;  they  proved 
more  acceptable  the  next  day,  as  the  sergeant  very  shrewdly 
anticipated.  The  servants  of  the  house  now  brought  water, 
which  we  wanted  for  mere  cleanliness,  and  in  this  intercourse, 
a  smart  girl  whispered,  pointing  at  the  overseer,  "  Gof/a," — 
which  in  the  morning  we  found  to  be  the  pass-word  among 
those  who  conversed  with  our  people.  In  fact  the  circum- 
stance of  his  moroseness  was  thus  intended  to  be  explained  ; 
the  domestics  denominated  him  a  Spaniard  or  Goth,  as  an  apo- 
logy for  his  rudeness ;  and  certainly  appearances  corroborated 
the  impression.  We  slept  comfortably,  and  took  care  to 
breakfast  before  Ave  moved,  which  was  not  till  ten  o'clock 
the  next  morning. 

Our  route  was  indeed  a  labyrinth  from  which  the  pre- 
vious knowledge  of  the  sergeant  could  alone  extricate  us 
without  difficulty  ;  the  ascent  was  steep,  and  rough,  and  hur- 
ried ;  the  summit  elevated,  wild,  cold,  and  raw  ;  and  the  Cor- 
dillera broken  into  groups  of  stupendous  magnitude,  and  se- 
parated by  vast  valleys  or  ravines  ;  nothing  was  distinct,  but 
magnitude  and  disorder.  We  at  length  gained  what  may  be 
described  as  the  rump  of  a  distinct  ridge,  woody,  separate, 
and  prolonged,  as  if  thrown  upon  a  vast  plain  in  its  centre, 
the  plain,  at  each  side,  forming  lovely,  verdant,  sun-lighted, 
lawns  of  great  extent  and  level ;  while  the  clouds  wrapt 

46 


362  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

about  us  were  chilly,  humid,  and  unpleasant.  We  passed 
along  the  spine  of  this  ridge,  and  at  length  reached  the  post- 
house  of  Saltikal.  The  clouds,  in  which  we  travelled,  had 
proved  to  us  a  "  Scots  mist,^^  for  they  "  wetted  our  jackets,'* 
and  rendered  water,  to  wash  our  faces  at  least,  wholly  unne- 
cessary. This  ascent  might  have  been  avoided,  were  it  not 
for  the  notion  of  shortening  distance.  Roads  lay  at  both 
sides  on  the  plains  below,  and  while  the  moist  curtain  that 
hid  from  us  the  sun's  rays  chilled  us,  we  could  see  the  plains 
below  bright  and  warm  as  the  scenes  in  a  theatre ;  and  we 
could  perceive  the  youth  on  the  velvet  green  running  races 
and  at  other  sports,  under  a  bright  sunshine,  though  they 
did  not  appear  larger  than  flics  on  a  carpet. 

Tlie  administrador  of  the  post  presented  himself,  and,  as 
he  appeared  to  be  the  sole  lord  of  these  upper  regions,  having, 
besides  the  post-office,  a  well  stocked  pulpureia,  and  a  sepa- 
rate house  for  his  own  residence,  he  assigned  the  post-house 
to  us  for  our  accommodation.  I  had  yet  experienced  no 
inconvenience  from  insects,  nor  even  seen  a  midge,  or  fly,  or 
musquito,  nor  any  thing  resembling  them,  till  we  found  the 
gnats  making  sharp  trespasses  on  our  faces  ;  in  fact,  they  were 
blood-suckers  :  the  place  was  a  hovel  not  very  clean,  but  as 
our  hammocks  placed  us  above  the  floor,  we  did  not  suflfer  in 
that  particular  ;  but  we  spent  a  very  disagreeable  night,  from 
the  number  and  pertinacity  of  the  gnats  of  Saltikal.  We 
rose,  therefore,  very  early,  and  but  little  refreshed.  There 
had  been  a  pretty  heavy  rain  in  the  night,  that  made  the 
freshness  of  the  verdure  around  delightful ;  we  could  see  the 
handsome  (perhaps  it  was  more  handsome  at  a  distance  in 
comparison  with  the  feelings  we  experienced  at  Saltikal) — 
town  of  Alinadero  distinctly  below  us  ;  and,  from  what  we 
saw  and  felt  at  Saltikal,  and  what  we  saw  and  heard  of  the 
valleys  on  both  sides,  I  should  advise  the  traveller  rather  to 
go  a  league  or  two  round  on  the  plain,  and  sleep  at  A  Una- 
dero,  rather  than  encounter  the  gnats  and  the  sleepless  stye 
at  the  post-house  on  the  ridge  of  Saltikal. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  363 

The  descent  from  this  disagreeable  place  is  worth}'^  of  the 
place  itself,  a  rude  ravine  scooped  out  of  a  slippery  soil ;  steep 
and  dangerous  to  descend ;  and  so  eager  were  we  to  escape 
from  the  place,  that  we  preferred  going  without  breakfast. 
We  gained  the  valley  safely,  and  passed  a  tolerable  path, 
leaving  Alinadero  on  our  left,  and  after  two  hours  ride  had 
to  ascend  another  ridge,  but  glowing  with  kindly  warmth 
and  luxuriance  ;  the  sides  of  the  slopes  were  picturesque, 
and  the  cultivation  was  extensive  and  unexpected.  Snug 
cottages  were  numerous.  Spacious  plots  of  apio^  that  is  ce- 
lery which  bears  a  root  as  large  as  the  common  beet,  but  of 
a  yellow  texture ;  neat  bamboo  fences,  behind  which  the 
pine-apple  displayed  all  its  richness,  in  every  stage  of  growth, 
its  scaly  cones  and  crested  tufts  giving  the  various  hues 
which  it  displays,  from  pale  emerald  to  deepest  topaz,  and 
garnished  and  guarded  with  armed  blades,  rivalling  in  magni- 
tude and  surpassing  in  beauty  the  native  aloe,  or  agave.  We 
gained  a  spot  where  shade  and  prospect,  and  a  beautiful 
rivulet,  induced  us  to  take  refreshment  and  rest ;  and  we 
accordingly  bivouaced,  breakfasted,  and  took  a  sleep.  We 
found  much  benefit  from  our  short  repose,  and  proceeded 
with  new  alacrity.  The  difference  between  the  beauty  and 
and  luxuriance  here  present,  compared  with  Saltikal,  I  could 
not  account  for :  perhaps  it  may  be  the  greater  elevation  of 
Saltikal,  though  I  could  not,  from  merely  passing  both,  sup- 
pose any  difference  of  elevation.  Our  route  was  here  very 
agreeable.  The  population  was  entirely  aboriginal,  and  we 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  an  Indian  family  in  a  state  of 
very  prosperous  civilization. 

We  were  all  attracted  by  a  neat  and  ample  cane  fence  on 
the  right  side  of  our  path,  as  we  ascended  a  knoll  on  the 
mountain ;  it  was  placed  on  the  north-west  slope  of  the 
sierra,  and  a  very  beautiful  and  lofty  clump  of  forest  trees 
sheltered  its  north  side  for  some  distance ;  the  interven- 
ing space  appeared,  some  part  in  cultivation,  and  a  larger 


364  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

part  as  if  recently  deprived  of  its  productions.  As  we  moved 
along  the  fence  side,  a  very  humble  cottage  appeared  with  the 
thatched  slope  to  the  road ;  at  the  extremity  a  hatch,  or  cane 
wicket,  opened  to  the  west  end  of  the  cottage,  and  led  into 
a  fenced  space  which  may  be  called  the  patio.  1  determined 
to  enter,  and  all  our  party  but  the  baggage  followed.  A 
comely  cheerful  Indian  presented  himself  in  a  good  white 
shirt  and  pantaloons,  and  paragattas  on  his  feet ;  he  smiled, 
and,  without  any  sort  of  surprise,  pointed  out  to  us  the  shel- 
ter of  the  roof,  which  being  higher  within  than  toward  the 
road,  formed  a  really  convenient  though  rude  corridor ;  and 
he  wished  us  all  to  dismount ;  I  had  already  done  so ;  and 
his  wife,  with  a  small  boy  and  another  child,  was  there  en- 
gaged with  a  pot  of  better  than  ordinary  earthenware,  that 
contained  about  two  gallons,  which  she  was  employed  in 
stirring  a  soup,  the  fragrance  whereof  was  very  agreeable. 
The  paisano  had  provided  some  rude  seats  for  us,  but  be- 
stowed his  first  civility  on  Elizabeth ;  the  little  boy  was 
dispatched  on  some  errand,  while  the  good-natured  squaw 
was  occupied  with  her  cookery,  and  casting  repeated  glances 
at  her  guests :  the  business  at  the  fire  was  concluded  very 
soon,  and  the  pot  placed  on  a  sort  of  mat  on  the  floor  of  the 
shaded  place  where  we  sat;  she  then  produced  some  totu- 
mas,  or  bowls  of  calabash,  with  pieces  of  the  same  material 
fashioned  as  near  as  possible  like  spoons ;  a  smaller  bowl, 
it  was  the  shell  of  a  cocoa-nut,  in  which  was  inserted 
rudely  a  handle  of  cane,  served  for  a  ladle,  and  with  which 
she  nearly  filled  a  small  bowl  and  handed  it  to  Elizabeth, 
and  to  each  of  us  successively.  Some  arepa  bread,  with  a 
little  straw  basket  of  limes,  were  placed  on  a  neat  white 
straw  mat,  and  the  obligations  of  a  corresponding  civility 
required  us  to  partake  of  what  had  been  so  kindly  shared. 

The  pot  was  covered  with  a  greenish  scum,  and  some  fiit 
appeared  floating  in  various  sized  spangles  on  the  surface. 
As  it  was  evidently  the  food  prepared  for  themselves,  there 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  365 

could  be  no  apprehension  of  any  thing  but  the  flavour  of 
the  mess.  I  tasted  it  freely,  and  was  very  much  satisfied  with 
its  composition  and  taste,  and  my  companions  were  not 
backward.  The  sergeant,  who  had  been  famiHar  with  all 
the  concerns  of  the  country,  I  must  confess,  encouraged 
me,  as  he  too  had  his  bowl,  and  feasted  with  evident  satis- 
faction. Had  we  not  taken  a  hearty  meal  after  leaving  Salti- 
kal,  I  have  no  doubt  we  should  have  found  the  soup  still 
more  delicious.  However,  we  took  sufficient  for  the  occasion, 
and  we  had  just  finished  when  the  little  boy  returned  laden 
with  fine  pine-apples  and  oranges,  and  some  smaller  fruit,  of 
which  I  had  not  seen  any  before  or  since.  We  ate  of  them 
all,  and  the  ,  sergeant  was  (nothing  loth)  requested  to  carry 
with  us  the  pines  that  remained. 

The  composition  of  the  soup  was  of  different  vegetables, 
and  a  small  portion  of  tajo,  or  sun-dried  beef;  the  plantain 
cut  in  pieces ;  the  white  yucca,  the  apio,  or  root  of  the 
celery,  some  spices  like  pimento,  and  ginger,  and  abun- 
dance of  red  pepper ;  bruized  maize  supplied  the  place  of 
barley,  and  some  aromatic  herbs,  of  which  I  could  not  guess 
the  name  nor  the  resemblance.  It  was  the  common  fare  of 
the  family,  and  the  good-natured  paisano  appeared  delighted 
with  our  satisfaction.  Upon  parting,  I  tendered  him  some  of 
the  current  silver  money,  for  our  fare,  as  well  as  for  some 
guarapa^  which  was  spontaneously  presented  also.  The  ho- 
nest native  looked  as  if  he  doubted  when  I  presented  the 
money,  and  absolutely  refused  to  accept  so  much.  The 
pine-apples  were  alone  worth  a  dollar,  even  there  where  they 
are  so  abundant,  and  he  seemed  to  think  that  some  little 
trifles  I  had  given  the  children  were  more  than  ample  com- 
pensation ;  we  placed  the  money  on  the  floor,  and  a  hearty 
shaking  of  hands  closed  our  intercourse.  The  poor  people 
came  after  us  upon  the  road,  and  remained  till  we  were 
concealed  from  their  view  by  the  luxuriant  foliage. 

We  reached  Chopo  about  three  o'clock,  passing  over  a 


866  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

country  perfectly  new  and  romantic,  in  its  bold  forms ;  long 
mounds  of  earth,  with  slopes  of  rubble,  and  verdant  plats 
less  steep  beneath  on  our  left,  and  a  vast  luxuriant  country 
in  our  front  and  on  our  left,  of  which  the  boundaries  were  not 
visible ;  on  our  right  shaggy  forests  of  lofty  trees.  We 
entered  the  margin  of  a  deep  ravine,  to  which  the  descent 
was  unexpectedly  long  and  tedious,  but  at  length  we  reach- 
ed a  small  rivulet,  the  bed  of  a  frequent  torrent;  on  the  sides 
were  cottages,  and  in  the  neat  gardens  behind  them  fine  cab- 
bages of  three  different  kinds  were  flourishing,  the  first  that 
I  had  seen  in  the  state  of  vegetation  ;  Savoys,  white  sugar- 
loaf  cabbages,  and  the  large  spreading  kale ;  there  were  others, 
but  I  could  not  discern  them  so  distinctly ;  but  some  of 
these  we  purchased,  which  were  equal  to  the  best  of  the 
Philadelphia  market.  Having  crossed  the  ravine,  and  ascend- 
ed to  the  right  the  side  of  the  hill  on  which  Chopo  is  scat- 
tered in  detached  hamlets,  there  appeared  at  first  not  a  living 
being  ;  we  passed  between  the  ledges  on  which  the  houses 
were  perched,  and  saw  a  few  women,  but  women  only, 
and  apparentl}'-  much  alarmed ;  at  length,  seeing  a  lady  in 
company,  some  of  them  appeared  to  wait  our  approach ; 
but  still  women,  and  women  only  :  the  fable  of  the  Ama- 
zons seemed  to  be  here  realized.  Not  being  able  to  obtain 
an  alcalde,  for  none  appeared,  and  loth  to  intrude  upon  those 
disconcerted  females,  lest  we  should  offend  or  more  affright 
them,  we  enquired  for  the  curate,  and  the  church  was  point- 
ed to,  at  some  distance ;  thither  we  repaired,  but  even  there 
too  all  was  silence  ;  not  even  a  woman  was  there.  We  at 
once  occupied  an  apartment,  and  prepared  for  refreshment 
and  repose. 

The  sergeant  had  set  out  in  search  of  a  supply  of  poultry, 
eggs,  and  vegetables,  of  which  he  purchased  a  good  store ; 
he  brought  also  an  explanation  of  the  appearances  in  Chopo. 
A  conscription  had  taken  place  in  that  village  a  few  days  be- 
fore for  its  quota,  to  recruit  the  army  of  General  Urdaneta ; 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.    .  367 

we  had  passed  the  very  men  on  the  road,  and  had  noted 
them  for  the  usual  stiffness  and  constraint  of  recruits,  with 
their  straw  hats,  their  long- tailed  shirts,  with  rough  embroi- 
dery on  the  tails.  Those  who  did  not  like  gunpowder  and 
glory,  or  preferred  a  wandering  and  fearful  life  in  the  moun- 
tains to  serving  their  country,  had  fled,  leaving  the  women 
in  charge  of  the  domestic  gods.  One  man  at  last  appeared, 
who  stole  his  way  to  our  temporary  lodging ;  he  was  one 
of  those  whose  fac  simile  is  to  be  found  in  every  country, 
who,  having  no  qualities  to  endear  or  attach  them  to  society, 
live  by  preying  upon  it.  He  pressed  the  sergeant  to  employ 
him  for  some  service,  who  gave  him  two  reals  to  purchase 
more  eggs,  very  judiciously  concluding,  that  his  company 
might  cost  ten  times  less  that  way  than  a  longer  stay ;  but,  con- 
trary to  the  sergeant's  expectations,  the  fellow  returned,  and 
presented  eighteen  eggs.  The  sergeant  detected  him  in  con- 
cealing the  residue  of  two  dozen,  and  the  fellow  had  the  au- 
dacity to  demand  another  real,  though  he  had  taken  six  eggs; 
the  sergeant,  seeing  the  design  to  cheat  the  old  soldier,  re- 
solved to  match  him,  and  to  get  rid  of  him  at  once  ;  under 
colour  of  giving  him  more,  he  obtained  two  reals  back,  and 
then  seized  upon  the  six  eggs  the  fellow  had  secreted, 
threatening  him  with  the  calahoso^  or  jail,  and  proceeded  to 
uncoil  one  of  the  baggage  ropes,  threatening  to  tie  him  ;  the 
sergeant  anticipated  what  followed — the  fellow  sprung  from 
the  grasp  of  Vincent,  bounded  at  a  single  vault  over  the  pita 
fence,  and  in  a  few  seconds  was  out  of  sight  in  the  valle}', 
leaving  all  the  eggs,  of  which  he  had  robbed  a  woman  of  the 
village,  and  the  money  he  had  by  his  own  roguery  failed  to 
rob  us,  behind  him.  The  sergeant,  instead  of  pursuing  this 
knave,  went  in  search  of  the  place  the  eggs  had  been  pro- 
cured, and  found  the  fellow  had  asserted  that  we  demanded 
them,  and  would  make  no  payment ;  that  she,  through  fear, 
had  sent  the  eggs,  not  expecting  payment.  The  sergeant 
paid  her,  and  satisfied  her  we  had  not  any  concern  with  the 


368  ,      VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

knave ;  but  she  added  that  he  was  the  terror  of  the  neighbour- 
hood. We  were  fortunate  in  getting  so  well  rid  of  him,  as  the 
sergeant  had  justly  scanned  his  character  at  the  first  glimpse. 
We  resolved,  after  resting  awhile,  to  stay  no  longer  in 
Chopo,  and  moved  at  half  past  four  o'clock,  ascending  a 
winding  but  picturesque  road  to  the  paramo,  through  rich 
forests,  until  we  gained  the  point  above  the  forest  limits,  and 
entered  a  region  cold,  and  damp,  and  misty.  Our  route  lay 
on  the  east  side  of  the  mountain,  and  the  wind  was  at  north- 
west. Our  direction  lay  along  the  shoulder  of  the  paramo,  by 
which  we  were  sheltered  from  the  rough  blasts.  The  road 
was  on  a  flat  covered  with  short  grass,  as  if  sheep  had  nipt 
it  close  as  velvet ;  numerous  paths  in  the  black  rich  loam 
marked  the  frequency  of  travelling,  and  the  activity  of  the 
neighbourhood,  as  all  the  paths  were  fresh  beaten,  and  nearly 
parallel  to  each  other.  Rain  had  been  menacing  us  for  some 
time ;  and  we  resorted  to  our  oil-cloth  cloaks,  before  it  should 
fall  too  heavy ;  and,  as  the  paramo  stood  between  us  and  the 
sun,  we  were  in  a  premature  twilight ;  our  mules,  by  aug- 
mented speed,  seemed  to  know  they  were  near  a  halting, 
place ;  when  turning  a  short  bluff',  about  a  dozen  females, 
all  in  black,  with  their  long  dark  romeros  floating  in  the 
wind,  and  they  moving  as  rapid  as  if  flying  from  a  similar 
group  of  the  same  questionable  shape,  that  at  some  distance 
followed  them  headlong ;  Elizabeth  and  myself  were  riding 
on  the  middle  paths  of  perhaps  fifty,  when  these  murky 
figures  passed  between  us  and  the  foot  of  the  sierra ;  their  ap- 
pearance, and  the  dusky  state  of  the  atmosphere,  produced 
on  Elizabeth  and  myself  the  same  impression ;  I  was  about 
to  say,  "How  now,  you  secret,  dark,  and  midnight  hags,  what 
is't  you  do  ?"  when  Elizabeth  exclaimed  Macbeth's  witches 
— "  Why,  upon  this  blasted  heath,  stop  you  our  way  ?" — 
They  rushed  by  us  rapidly,  enunciating  a  "  Whe-e-euh !" 
giving  unconsciously  a  new  incident  to  lead  the  imagination 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  369 

after  the  mind's  first  illusion — the  second  group  advanced, 
and  fled  as  if  in  pursuit,  seeming  to  say — 

Fair  is  foul, 

And  foul  is  fair — 

Hover  thro'  the  fog  and  filthy  air. 

The  garments  of  men  and  women,  it  was  before  observed;, 
changed  colour  on  the  approach  to  the  cool  region  of  Mu- 
chachees ;  in  the  warm  valley  of  Merida,  and  others,  the 
light  garments  reappeared,  and  the  black,  blue,  and  brown 
colours  were  greater  in  proportion,  in  the  order  here  named, 
now  prevailed,  and  continued  to  prevail  the  whole  way  to 
Bogota,  though  lighter  colours  incidentally  appeared  where 
the  valleys  were  warm  ;  and  though  the  influence  of  foreign 
intercourse  appeared  very  visibly  in  the  garments  of  the  opu- 
lent of  both  sexes,  but  more  especially  the  females  and  mi- 
litary men. 

The  mist  had  now  become  a  mizzle,  and  accompanied 
by  slight  gusts,  which,  as  they  came  from  behind  our 
course,  were  more  sufferable,  and  still  more  so  when  a 
glimpse  of  Pamplona  broke  through  the  haze,  far,  far  below 
us,  on  a  verdant  carpet  to  the  right  as  we  first  saw  it. 
Winding  round  a  steep  road,  cutout  of  the  side  of  the  steep 
mountain,  which  shut  out  the  wind ;  but  the  soil  being  a 
slippery  clay,  the  descent  required  care,  and  the  mule,  with 
its  accustomed  sagacity,  chose  to  traverse  in  oblique  lines, 
rather  than  proceed  straight  down.  The  city  now  appeared 
as  we  changed  direction  to  the  left  of  our  front,  or,  as  a  sail- 
or would  say,  on  our  larboard  bow,  and  before  we  reached 
the  plain  the  air  moderated,  the  mist  replaced  the  rain,  and 
Pamplona  appeared  exactly  like  Caracas,  a  picture  or  a 
map  on  a  verdant  carpet,  sloping  from  the  north  and  west, 
and  its  lowest  point  at  the  south-east  angle,  which  opened  to 
a  narrow  defile,  separating  two  lofty  mountains,  through 
which  a  small  limpid  stream  gently  crept  from  the  west — 
it  was  the  first  stream  of  the  Sulia,  which  has  its  source  to 

47 


370  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  north-west  of  Pamplona.  The  valley,  itself,  was  not 
open  at  the  extremes  like  that  of  Caracas,  of  which  it  seemed 
to  !)e  rather  a  miniature ;  a  range  of  not  very  large  moun- 
tains rose  on  its  rear  or  north  side  ;  the  steep  we  descended 
formed  the  face  of  the  valley  east ;  on  the  south  the  Sierra 
was  lofty  and  steep  i  and  the  north  and  south  sides  so  paral- 
lel that  it  seemed  as  regular  a  parallelogram  as  if  so  designed. 
The  west  face  of  the  valley  was  a  slope,  which,  though  it  com- 
pleted the  parallelogram,  was  not  abrupt  or  elevated  like  the 
other  three  sides,  but  gradually  rose  in  the  distance  to  an  equal 
height,  as  we  afterwards  found  the  road  to  the  capital  leading 
over  it.  Elizabeth,  and  the  sergeant,  and  myself,  had  push- 
ed on  with  more  rapidity  than  the  rest,  and  we  presented 
ourselvesat  the  commandant's  quarters,  whom  we  found  the 
handsome  well  equipt  Colonel  Guerra ;  he  had  been  but  a 
few  days  in  office,  but  invited  us  to  sit  down,  and  ordered 
some  anniseed  liqueur,  which  was  brought  with  biscuits.  He 
sent  an  order  to  receive  us  in  the  former  aduana^  or  custom 
house,  which  had  ceased  with  the  abrogation  of  the  Alcavala, 
and  we  proceeded  thither. 

In  the  commandant's  quarters  we  saw  the  first  window 
closed  against  the  external  air,  an  indication  of  the  humidity  or 
coldness  of  the  climate  ;  there  were  no  sashes  nor  frames  occu- 
pied by  glass,  but  they  consisted  of  pannels  of  fine  linen, 
which  gave  a  tempered  light  in  a  bright  atmosphere,  but  when 
it  rained  gave  a  very  gloomy  light,  and  to  us  a  fire  would 
have  been  a  comfort.  But  an  opinion  or  a  prejudice  prevails 
here  and  at  Bogota,  that  domestic  fires  are  pernicious  to 
health  ;  and  thus  sometimes  they  are  content  to  shiver  rather 
than  obtain  warmth  by  fire  ;  hence  the  diseases  of  the  inci- 
dental kind  that  prevail  here,  are  the  face-ache,  tooth-ache, 
and  sometimes  slight  catarrh  among  old  people,  arising  from 
this  uncomfortable  prejudice.  The  chambers  in  the  house 
of  the  commandant,  for  they  are  generally  two  stories  high, 
had  double  sets  of  doors  ;  that  is,  the  ordinary  upright  door. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  S^l 

and  another  which  was  not  upright ;  outside  the  chamber 
door  two  jambs  were  fixed  in  an  inclined  position  projecting 
six  or  eight  inches  from  the  wall ;  to  one  of  these  jambs,  a 
frame  covered  with  strong  linen  was  fixed  by  hinges ;  and 
so  of  other  doors ;  the  philosophy  of  double  doors,  which  the 
boors  of  Russia  had  conceived,  was  devised  also  here  in  the 
cold  valleys  of  the  Andes,  within  the  tropics  7°  north 
latitude,  where  the  same  expedients  were  resorted  to,  by  in- 
terposing a  column  of  air  between  the  external  atmosphere 
and  the  house. 

The  Sulia  I  observed  flowed  from  the  north-west  of  the 
plain  to  the  opening  in  the  mountain,  in  that  direction  we  learn- 
ed lay  the  celebrated  gold  country — erroneously  called  a 
mine — I  saw  at  the  treasury  of  Bogota,  a  rude  lump  of  the 
native  ore,  found  in  one  of  the  washings  of  this  region,  weigh- 
ing about  seven  pounds.  The  washings  were  obstructed 
when  we  were  there,  as  I  felt  an  inclination  to  visit  and 
see  them  in  operation,  but  some  renegadoes  had  been  sent 
thither  by  the  Spaniards  to  intercept  the  collection  of  gold, 
and  they  threatened  all  persons  found  there  with  death. 


37S 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Pamplona  a  general  military  depot — order  of  the  arsenal — military  drills — novel 
mode  of  training  horses  to  the  fire — comparison  with  the  Persian  horseman 
ship — delayed  for  mules — hints  for  travellers — supplied  from  the  depot — leave 
Pamplona — field  works  of  Morillo — Paramo  of  Cocota— dismal  place — the 
white  house — a  loom  for  woollen  weaving  —a  domestic  missing — returns— 
and  is  discharged — Chataga — three  routes  to  Tunja — take  the  central — moun- 
tain characteristics — Cerrito — Volcan  de  Jigua — lavadura  de  Oro — the  village 
of  Cerrito — mills  numerous  in  the  valley — fine  grain  country— ./5«fiwnc»on — 
the  good  Franciscan  curate. 

Pamplona  is  a  military  depot  for  artillery,  cavalry,  in- 
fantry— for  discipline — and  a  military  hospital — and  an  arsenal 
for  arms  of  every  kind ;  the  latter  was  under  the  direction 
of  a  French  officer,  who,  after  serving  with  eclat  in  several 
campaigns,  had  retired  after  the  battle  of  Carabobo  to  Mara- 
caibo,  and  had  acquired  a  handsome  fortune,  which  he  lost 
on  the  taking  of  that  place  by  Morales.  He  returned  to 
the  army  and  was  received,  and  appointed  to  this  charge. 
The  business  going  on  was  all  judicious  and  efficient ;  the 
order  established  in  it,  the  effi^ctive  benefits,  particularly  in 
the  repair  of  arms,  have  repaid  its  expenditures  twenty  fold. 

Pamplona,  if  it  had  roads  of  communication  suitable  for 
mercantile  transportation  and  travelling,  such  as  are  in  other 
countries,  would  be,  from  its  cool  climate,  position,  and  the 
richness  of  the  country  all  round  it,  a  place  of  great  import- 
ance;  indeed  it  must  become  so  as  the  prosperity  of  the 
republic  grows.  However,  it  is  by  no  means  so  cold  as  our 
spring  or  autumn  days  in  March  and  October  in  Philadel- 
phia ;  it  is  only  after  being  some  time  habituated  to  the  warm- 
er regions  that  its  atmosphere  may  be  called  cold.  The 
forests  are  never  unclothed,  perpetual  verdure  prevails,  and 
frost  or  snow  is  never  known  but  as  it  is  seen  on  verv  dis- 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  373 

tant  and  more  elevated  Paramos.  A  vigorous  muscu- 
lar frame  is  characteristic  of  the  population  of  all  de- 
grees, from  Caracas  to  this  place,  and  in  all  parts  of  the 
republic  that  I  have  visited  ;  at  Pamplona  the  forms  of  per- 
sons are  perceptibly  more  vigorous,  and  their  gait  more 
bold  and  elastic. 

I  found  it  difficult  to  obtain  mules  here,  and  was  delayed 
on  that  account  some  days.  As  the  morning  air  was  brisk 
and  delightful,  I  made  some  rambles  of  curiosity  ;  and  as  the 
knowledge  of  any  particular  art  or  science  is  apt  to  be  accom- 
panied by  a  desire  to  see  and  make  comparisons  with  the 
knowledge  of  others  on  the  same  subject,  in  my  morning's 
walk  I  accidentally  came  upon  the  ground  of  exercise,  where 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  not  only  seeing  what  I  had  some  prac- 
tical acquaintance  with  handsomely  performed,  and  entirely 
to  my  taste,  but  witnessed  a  mode  of  training  horses  to  the 
fire  of  artillery,  and  the  artillerists  to  practise,  which  I  had 
neither  seen  nor  heard  of  before. 

The  drill  of  light  troops  was  carrying  on  in  the  manner  of 
the  American  rifle  corps,  and  I  found  that  there  was  a  transla- 
lation  into  Spanish  of  the  rifle  drills,  which  I  had  published 
when  lieutenant-colonel  of  the  first  United  States  rifle  regi- 
ment. The  drill  was  handsomely  conducted  by  young  subal- 
tern officers,  who,  besides  judgment,  took  great  pleasure  and 
great  pains  to  instruct  the  young  troops,  and,  to  do  them 
bare  justice,  they  were  certainly  not  so  awkward  as  some  that 
have  come  under  my  observation  elsewhere,  and,  what  is 
more  remarkable,  I  do  not  recollect  having  seen  recruits  in 
the  regular  service  take  more  delight  in  their  first  exercises. 

The  training  of  the  horses  came  upon  me  wholly  by  sur- 
prise, and,  as  I  was  alone,  I  did  not  choose  to  ask  questions ; 
aware  that,  during  a  state  of  war,  strangers  should  be 
particularly  cautious  of  making  inquiries,  and  especially 
where  there  are  depots.  I  was,  therefore,  waiting  to  see  the 
practice  of  a  handsome  battery  of  brass  field  pieces,  arranged 


374  VISIT  TO  COLOMOIA. 

on  the  west  or  lowest  side  of  the  great  plaza,  which  is  more 
than  half  a  mile  in  length  north  and  south,  as  the  city  stands 
upon  the  higher  or  north  side  of  the  plane.  The  artillerists, 
after  performing  a  short  infantry  drill,  or  movement,  to  gay 
dancing  music,  took  possession  of  their  battery,  and  com- 
menced a  regular  fire  from  right  to  left — suddenly  a  nume- 
rous drove,  perhaps  three  hundred  horses,  without  even  a 
halter,  entered  upon  the  south-west  angle  of  the  Plaza.  A 
considerable  number  of  peons,  who  had  them  in  charge, 
accompanied  the  horses  behind,  and  at  each  side,  and  they 
were  brought  into  a  promiscuous  group  in  that  angle  of  the 
plaza  nearest  to  the  batteries.  The  artillerists  had,  at  the 
signal  of  a  bugle,  taken  their  stations  at  the  guns,  and  were 
governed  throughout  by  the  bugle.  Whether  this  practice 
grew  out  of  what  all  experience  teaches,  that  animals,  and 
men  among  the  rest,  acquire  more  confidence,  and  even  en- 
counter danger  with  less  timidity  in  association,  than  sepa- 
rate ;  or  whether  it  was  a  practice  discovered  by  accident, 
and  pursued  in  consequence  of  its  demonstrated  efficacy,  is 
not  material.  Upon  a  signal  from  the  bugle,  the  horses 
were  put  in  motion  by  the  peons,  so  placed  as  to  cause  that 
motion  to  be  continued  in  a  circle.  The  horses  had  com- 
pleted the  circle  three  or  four  times,  all  in  a  mass,  when  the 
remotest  piece  of  artillery  was  discharged,  the  concussion 
put  the  horses  into  more  rapid  action,  and  another  gun, 
somewhat  nearer,  had  a  like  effect ;  a  third  produced  a  still 
greater  celerity ;  but  the  fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth  guns 
were  rapidly  fired,  and  the  movement  could  not  be  more 
accelerated,  they  were  as  much  at  speed  as  their  crowded 
circumstances  would  admit ;  the  firing  continued  from  right 
to  left,  and  the  horses  were  gradually  brought  to  move  in  a 
slower  pace,  and  so  continued  through  another  range  of  dis- 
charges. Guns  were  then  fired  alternately  from  the  right 
and  the  left,  with  an  interval,  and  became  more  rapid  in 
such  alternation ;  there  was  some  little  starting  at  the  sud- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  375 

denness  and  remoteness,  and  alternate  nearness  of  the  fire ; 
some  horses  endeavoured  to  escape,  but  the  active  peons  were 
at  hand,  and  compelled  them  to  keep  within  the  circle.  A 
rapid  and  random  fire  succeeded,  the  horses  pursued  their 
circular  motion,  their  circle  became  more  ample,  and  they 
assumed  a  gallop,  as  was  desired.  A  short  pause  enabled  the 
horses  to  respire,  for  they  were  already  warm,  and  it  was 
contrived  to  give  their  circle  of  action  a  greater  expansion, 
on  a  figure  approaching  an  ellipsis ;  at  length  they  were 
brought  to  move  along  the  front  of  the  fire,  and  return  and 
wheel  again  while  the  fire  was  continued.  The  exercises 
were  finished  by  the  random  fire  of  the  light  infantry  drill. 
The  horses  at  length  became  quiet,  and  on  the  third  day 
(I  did  not  see  them  when  exercised  on  the  second)  I  found 
that  the  horses  followed  three  or  four  mounted  men,  and 
came  right  or  left  about  as  the  mounted  horses  led. 

I  understood  these  drills  were  preparatory  to  mounting,  as 
the  horsL'S  had  only  just  arrived  from  the  plains  ;  and  that  as 
soon  as  they  moved  without  panic  in  the  presence  of  the 
fire,  they  were  to  be  put  into  a  drill  mounted,  which  was  not, 
upon  their  manege  principles,  so  essential,  but  as  to  the  horse, 
the  men  are  so  much  masters  of  the  seat  and  hand,  and  at  a 
mounted  drill  T  understood  they  moved  close  under  the  fire 
without  swerving.  I  have  given  the  general  plan  and  mode 
of  the  drill,  rather  than  the  particular  description  of  any  one 
day's  exercise.  The  system  was  methodical  and  perfectly 
successful.  No  people  that  I  have  seen  are  equal  to  the 
South  Americans  in  the  perfect  command,  or  the  dauntless 
confidence  with  which  they  mount  the  wildest  horse ;  the 
Persians  are  as  graceful  and  confident  riders,  but  the  Persian 
horse  is  not  caught  wild  and  mounted  the  moment  he  is 
caught ;  the  Persian  horse  is  kept  with  tied  fetlocks,  by- 
ropes  affixed  to  two  stakes  about  four  feet  in  front,  and 
two  more  four  feet  in  the  rear  of  him  ;  he  feeds  with  his 
hind  limbs  stretched,  and  without  the  bit ;  yet  is  seldom 


376  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

tamed,  or  as  completely  within  the  government  of  his  rider's 
hand  as  the  horse  of  Colombia,  where  the  horse  retains 
his  wildness  on  the  pasture,  but  obeys  the  rider  with  the 
readiness  of  the  spaniel.  The  Persian  relies  mostly  upon 
his  bit,  the  Colombian  on  his  spurs;  though  only  in  a 
greater  degree,  both  use  the  heavy  bit  and  long-pronged 
rowel.  The  Colombian  will  mount  the  wildest  horse,  and, 
before  he  dismounts,  the  horse  is  tame  and  obedient.  The 
training  of  the  Persian  horse  is  a  tedious  service. 

The  circumstances  of  Pamplona,  as  a  central  depot  for  so 
many  various  services,  and  the  army  being  then  in  motion 
for  the  neighbourhood  of  Maracaibo,  the  demand  for  horses 
and  mules  for  public  service  was  immense,  and  we  remained 
five  days  in  Pamplona,  unable  to  procure  any,  at  any  price ; 
reflecting  that  the  governor,  having  but  recently  taken  charge, 
might  not  have  been  acquainted  with  the  orders  which  had 
passed  on,  and  had  procured  us  so  much  attention  and  com- 
fort on  the  greater  part  of  the  road,  I  addressed  a  short  note 
to  the  commandant,  and  sent  with  it  the  letter  of  General 
Clemente,  Intendant  of  Sulia,  to  me,  from]  Betijoque,  and 
some  other  documents,  which  experience  in  travelling 
through  other  countries  had  taught  me  the  importance  of — 
and  I  sent  the  sergeant  to  the  governor,  who,* upon  the  peru- 
sal,  immediately  ordered  mules  from  the  public  depot,  ex- 
pressed his  regret  at  my  detention,  and  gave  me  a  passport 
from  himself,  to  be  used  when  it  should  be  necessary.  We 
had  mules  at  the  time  he  appointed,  and,  on  Sunday,  18th 
January,  at  noon,  we  ascended  the  mountain,  at  the  foot  of 
which  the  little  brook  of  the  Sulia  wound  its  way  along  the 
plain  from  the  north-west. 

About  half  a  mile  from  the  foot  of  the  ascent  we  reached 
a  ridge,  the  prolongation  of  which  was  in  the  line  of  descent, 
and  at  both  sides  choked  up  wdth  deep  forest.  At  this  place 
Morillo,  in  one  of  his  military  operations,  cut  the  ridge  com- 
pletely across,  and  established  a  formidable  battery  ;  no  po- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  377 

sition  would  seem  to  be  better  chosen,  or  adapted  to  cut  off 
all  intercourse  on  that  side  with  Pamplona.  It  was  a  trench 
of  ten  feet  in  depth,  transversely  with  the  line  of  the  ridge, 
along  which  the  only  road  lay ;  but  we  learned  that  it  had 
been  turned  by  a  division  of  the  Colombians,  and  that  some 
of  the  guns  in  the  arsenal,  which  we  had  seen,  were  aban- 
doned by  Morillo,  the  surprise  of  the  attack  was  so  vigorous. 
The  ditch  had  been  filled  up,  to  a  certain  extent,  broad 
enough  for  a  mule  road  ;  but  the  extent  on  both  sides  re- 
mained as  it  first  was  formed,  and  keeps  up  remembrance. 

The  Sierra  which  we  had  to  pass  was  very  arid  when  we 
began  to  descend,  and  the  steeps  tremendous,  by  which  we 
reached  Cocota,  a  village  so  miserable,  and  the  steeps  so 
dreary  and  desolate,  that  we  determined  to  pass  into  a  better 
region  ;  and  crossed  a  tolerable  bridge  over  a  small  river, 
ascending  the  steep  side  of  a  chalky,  craggy  road,  through 
which  we  gained  a  mild  and  verdant  region.  We  could 
discern,  at  several  miles  distance,  before  we  descended  the 
dismal  Sierra  of  Cocota,  a  white  house  on  the  green  ridges  in 
front,  and  thither  we  moved.  The  climate,  and  the  aspect 
of  the  landscape,  had  all  changed  in  this  short  transit  of  not 
more  than  three  leagues  from  Cocota.  We  found,  on  reach- 
ing this  place,  that  it  was  habitually  resorted  to,  but,  as  the 
usages  of  the  country  establish  hospitality,  every  house  on 
a  road  is  accustomed  freely  to  afford  the  traveller  accommo- 
dation, when  there  is  space  to  receive  him.  We  rode  up  under 
this  knowledge,  and  the  old  husbandman,  without  hesitating, 
crossed  his  coral^  and  led  us  to  a  hovel,  where  we  found 
standing  a  rude  formed  loom,  adapted  to  the  weaving  of 
very  coarse  woollen  or  cotton.  Here  we  hung  up  our  ham- 
mocks, but  we  missed  our  cook  Pedro,  and  had  to  draw 
upon  the  talents  of  Vincent  for  the  quieting  of  our  appetites, 
which  were  very  much  excited  by  this  day*s  varied  and 
tiresome  journey  :  Vincent  here  unfolded  his  skill  in  cookery 

48 


/ 


378  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

to  great  advantage,  and  we  were  enabled  to  retire  to  rest 
without  the  necessity  of  a  taper. 

Pedro  had  charge  of  EHzabeth's  black  mule,  which  had  re- 
quired to  be  spared,  in  order  to  retrieve  it ;  but  he  had  con- 
trived to  lose  the  mule  on  which  he  had  himself  rode,  and  after 
severely  wounding  the  black  mule  under  his  care,  rode  into 
the  coral  when  we  were  in  the  moment  of  departure.  De- 
termined to  do  without  him,  and  as  he  had  been  indiscreetly 
paid  at  Pamplona,  and  we  had  no  tie  upon  him,  but  the  dif- 
ficulty of  escaping,  if  he  conmiitted  any  outrageous  mischief, 
he  had  in  fact  spent  his  money  in  drunkenness  at  Cocota. 
He  was  here  discharged  ;  and  the  best  remedies  of  the  Ser- 
geant's skill,  as  a  horse-doctor,  were  called  forth,  and  with 
most  complete  success ;  in  a  few  days  he  cured  a  wound 
which  threatened  to  disable  the  mule  for  ever. 

It  was  ten  o'clock,  on  the  19th  of  January,  before  we  left  the 
White  house,  and  late  when  we  reached  Ghataga,  on  a  river 
of  the  same  name,  over  which  there  is  a  rude,  but  conve- 
nient, bridge.  This  place  was  considered  formerly  as  the 
commencement  of  a  forest  of  the  same  name,  and  though  the 
forests  do  not  appear  so  stupendous  as  others  we  have  passed, 
the  route  is  in  that  state^  which  may,  without  impropriety^ 
be  called  a  wilderness.  We  passed  the  night  at  this  place, 
and  by  nine  o'clock  on  the  20th  were  in  motion  for  the  mid- 
dle route  by  Anciso. 

At  Chataga  there  is  a  choice  of  three  routes  to  Tunja,  and 
it  is  difficult  to  say  which  is  the  worst.  That  to  the  east 
side  of  the  ridge  leads  by  El  Pilar,  Betoye,  Patute,  Pinas, 
Manare,  Pore,  Marcotc,  and  Paya,  to  Tunja. 

The  route  to  the  west  of  the  Sierra  was  by  Sulia,  Sarrare, 
across  the  river  Chichimacho,  St.  Gil,  Obia,  II  Tirano,  Soba- 
ya,  Velez,  and  Leyva,  to  Tunja. 

The  road  we  pursued  was  central,  and  we  selected  it  be- 
cause mules  are  not  so  easily  and  certainly  obtained  on  the 
collateral  roads  in  any  part  of  the  country,  as  in  that  which 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  379 

the  correoy  the  armies,  and  merchandise  travel ;  nor  is  subsis- 
tence for  travellers  so  good,  or  the  police  so  regardful  of  their 
dut) .  Indeed,  all  the  routes  were  described  in  such  horrible 
terms,  that  we  were  very  well  prepared  to  be  disappointed  if 
any  thing  agreeable  should  occur. 

Our  route  therefore  was  from  Puenta,Chataga,Cerrito,  Cer- 
rito  Nueva,  the  Paramos,  Tecuia,  Conception,  Capitanejo, 
Suta, Asuncion,  Sativa,Chota,  Pesea,  Serinza,  Sogomoso,Dhi- 
lamo,  and  Tunja. 

The  country  at  this  point  beyond  Pamplona  is  very  strong- 
ly marked  by  the  divergency  of  vast  spurs  of  the  Cordillera, 
like  the  radii  from  a  great  centre ;  the  lofty  chain  of  the 
Chisga  shoots  off  like  the  trunk  of  an  immense  tree,  with  nu- 
merous and  monstrous  branches,  whose  intervals  form  valleys, 
and  whose  streams  contribute  to  the  beautiful  and  splendid 
Apure ;  the  chain  of  Merida  lies  to  the  south-east,  having 
several  parallel  ridges  and  valleys,  which  break  their  main 
continuity  to  discharge  their  waters  to  the  north,  or  south,  or 
east ;  the  chain  of  Pidraza  sends  its  branches  into  Varinas  ; 
and  that  grand  chain  which  terminates  its  sublime  and  snow- 
clad  summits  in  the  verge  of  the  ocean  at  Santa  Marta,  has 
its  separation  and  its  stem  at  this  place,  and  shoots  forth  its 
lofty  ridges  due  north  from  this  point ;  while  the  ridge  over 
which  we  were  passing,  and  between  the  wild  chains  of 
which  we  found  Cerrito,  there  was  visible  the  effects  of  an 
overflowing  of  a  water  volcano :  the  main  direction  here  is 
from  north  to  south,  prolonged  south  from  the  point  at  where 
the  eastern  ridges  diverge. 

The  Galinazo,  which  washes  the  valley,  and  carries  off  the 
countless  streams  of  Capitanejo,  has  its  line  from  north-east 
to  southwest,  as  far  as  Tunja,  where  its  great  lines  of  ele- 
vation are  constantly  thrown  into  groups,  whose  heads  are  lost 
in  the  clouds,  but  whose  feet  appear  to  rest  on  level  plains, 
from  which  they  s^m  to  rise  abruptly,  leaving  vast  levels, 
and  windings  round  their  sides,  which  afford  outlets  for  the 
waters  to  flow,  the  traveller  to  pass  in  shade  at  all  hours,  and 


380  VISIT    TO    COLOMBIA. 

the  herds  to  be  transferred  without  ascending  the  Sierra. 
Whoever  imagines  that  the  Andes  arc  an  unbroken  chain  or 
a  comparatively  narrow  ridge,  mistakes  the  whole  character 
of  those  sublime  elevations.  There  is  a  grouping  and  inter- 
section throughout  the  country,  from  the  Silla  of  Caracas  to 
the  snow- clad  ridges  of  Chisga,  which  unites  the  ridges  east 
and  south  east  of  Bogota  with  the  great  double  chain  of  Quito. 
Before  we  descended  this  inclined  plane  leading  to  Cerrito, 
a  stream  sustained  by  artificial  embankments,  and  about 
twelve  feet  wide,  crossed  our  route  obliquely  from  right  to 
left,  and  wound  round  an  ample  space  enclosed  by  stone  walls. 
A  timber  platform  over  the  stream  led  to  a  gate,  inside  of 
which  was  a  porter's  lodge,  and  a  family  with  several  fine 
children :  we  were  admitted,  and  halted  ;  and,  on  enquiring 
as  to  the  cause  of  the  water  of  the  stream  being  dark  and 
foul,  and  the  banks  covered  with  what  seemed  to  be  ashes ; 
for  the  stream  had  overflowed  on  both  sides,  and  left  a  ridge 
of  several  inches  deep  upon  the  banks  and  the  ground  ad- 
jacent, while  the  stream  still  continued  to  flow  rapidly,  loaded 
with  this  muddy,  gray,  ashes-like  substance,  and  which  spread 
all  round,  and  into  the  lower  valley  more  than  a  mile — an  in- 
telligent  and  civil  little  man,  who  was  seated  on  a  bench  in  the 
corridor  of  the  lodge,  informed  me  that  a  mountain,  to  which 
he  pointed,  (and  whose  black  bleak  summit  seemed  at  top  to 
form  the  edge  of  a  circular  mound  and  bason,)  had  a  few  days 
before  cast  forth  a  volcan  de  agua^  an  immense  body  of  water ; 
that  the  flood  was  so  great  as  to  undermine  and  overthrow 
immense  bodies  of  rocks,  and  to  change  the  whole  aspect  and 
shape  of  the  ridges  which  before  existed  there  ;  and  pointed 
to  the  new  appearances,  the  stupendous  perpendicular  cliflfs 
opening  on  each  side  to  crevices  more  deep,  the  naked  rocks 
presenting  ochreous  and  rusted  shades,  but  on  projecting 
ledges  displaying  piled  ridges  of  the  same  ashes-like  sub- 
stance, and  streams  of  the  same  feculenct :  there  is  no  possi- 
bility of  describing  by  words  the  wild  disorder  of  this  place. 
It  appeared  that  the  crevice  which  we  saw  next  the  road  was 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  B8i 

but  a  narrow  opening  to  a  more  spacious  area,  from  which 
several  vallies  opened  in  different  points  ;  that  some  of  those 
valleys  were  now  closed  up,  and  ravines  replaced  former 
mounds  of  rock  ;  piles  heaped  on  piles  of  this  ruin  of  the 
mountain  were  partly  visible,  and,  connected  with  the  ideas  of 
the  phenomena  communicated  by  the  narrator,  formed  an 
object  sublime  and  terrific. 

Had  we  not  halted  to  procure  some  water  at  the  porter's 
lodge,  this  occurrence  might  have  escaped  us,  with  only  the 
bare  view  of  the  ashes  on  the  embankment,  and  the  turbid 
appearance  of  the  stream.     I  had  dismounted,  with  a  view 
to  walk  and  supple  my  joints,  and  had  entered  into  chat  with 
this  stranger ;  some  sprightly  children  had  selected  me  out, 
and  were  amusing  themselves  and  me  by  their  innocent 
prattle,  and  giving  me, — with  their  broad  black  opened  eyes,, 
and  extended  hands,  with  their  palms  uppermost,  relating  in 
their  brief  phrases  the  wonders  which  I  did  not  yet  compre- 
hend— el  volcan  terrible — el  7nanga  de  agua^  arpeso — una 
vortice  del  areo — una  turbellino  de  la  montafia  ! — atonito! — y 
marviliosamente  !     I  should  have  remained  in  the  dark  stilly 
had   not  the  stranger  made  me  acquainted,  as  above,  with 
the  really  marvellous  and  astonishing  subjects  of  their  inno- 
cent communicativeness.     The  stranger  said  the  torrent  that 
rushed  out  of  the  crevice  in  view,   spread  over  the  whole 
valley,  more  than  a  mile  in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  breadth, 
and  that  enormous  masses  of  rock  were  removed  from  posi- 
tions which  they  had  possessed  from  time  immemorial ;  that 
there  were  heavy  showers  of  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning, 
and  frequent  gushes  from  the  cerro,  the  roar  of  which  was 
heard ;  that  some  of  the  ravines  were  filled,  and  steep  preci- 
pices undermined,  by  whose  fall  spacious  levels  were  con- 
verted into  steeps,  and  new  spaces  that  opened  ascents  to  the 
mountains  before  unknown ;  and  that  the  stream  continued 
to  bring  away  the  gray  ashes-like  substance  as  we  saw  it. 
He  added,  that  before  this  phenomenon,  that  ravine  led  to  a 
lavadura  d'*oro^  or  gold  washing ;  that  a  party  had  gone  from 


383  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Cerrifo,  since  the  inundation,  to  visit  the  washing,  and  had  ' 
not  since  been  heard  of. 

There  being  an  appearance  of  rain  on  the  brow  of  the 
cerrOf  and  not  wishing  to  be  deluged  in  ashes,  we  parted 
with  those  people,  who  had,  during  little  more  than  an  hour's 
stay,  sought  many  ways  to  entertain  and  oblige  us ;  we  bade 
our  adios,  and  moved  through  the  rocky  fragments  to  the 
valley  where  Cerrito  was  scattered  upon  the  shoulders  and 
sides  of  hills,  although  the  rain  had  on  our  way  called  forth 
our  oil-cloth  cloaks.  The  appearance  of  the  village  is  in  ac- 
cordance widi  its  name,  which  signifies  steep,  craggy,  elevated 
and  inaccessible  mountains,  indicating  too  probably  that  phe- 
nomena such  as  had  recently  occurred  were  not  entirely  new. 
The  groups  of  houses  stood  on  detached  verdant  hills,  through 
which  the  open  doors  gave  perspective  views  of  other  hills ; 
and  little  gardens  appeared  beyond  and  contiguous,  and  seemed 
like  carpets  hung  up  to  air  or  dry.  We  obtained  very  good 
quarters,  and  purchased  some  very  fine  fresh  butter,  though 
insipid,  from  the  want  of  salt,  to  which  there  appears  to  be 
an  unaccountable  aversion  throughout  the  country ;  so  that  in 
the  most  respectable  houses,  we  have  been  under  the  necessity 
of  requesting  salt,  which,"though  used  by  us  only  in  the  mode- 
rate manner  customary  in  the  United  States  as  a  condiment, 
excited  great  surprise,  and  sometimes  cautions  for  our  health's 
sake;  for  myself,  I  suspect,  that  the  use  of  salt  would  be  a 
preventive  of  that  very  unpleasant  disease  the  Goitre.  This 
village  of  scattered  hillocks,  notwithstanding  the  desolation 
of  the  Volcan  de  Agua  in  its  neighbourhood,  has  every  ap- 
pearance of  prosperity,  and  the  turbid  stream  which  we  pass- 
ed in  the  plain  above,  was  here  employed  in  turning  some 
wheels  of  mills,  at  which  good  wheat  was  converted  into 
flour,  for  the  country  surrounding ;  and  the  view  of  the  coun- 
try south  was  that  of  a  plain  laughing  with  abundance. 

About  six  o'clock,  the  21st  of  January,  we  left  the  first 
Cerrito,  and  before  nine  passed  a  second  village  of  the  same 
name,  but  of  a  more  regular  and  handsome  appearance ;  this 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  383 

village,  and  the  next  called  Asuncion^  stand  on  the  side  of  the 
valley,  on  a  broad  bank  of  half  a  mile  width  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  but  half  a  mile  above  the  broad  rich  fields  of  grain 
that  on  every  side  covered  the  spacious  valley.  Asuncion 
had  an  appearance  of  newness  or  neatness ;  the  houses  were 
all  whitened  on  the  outside  and  inside ;  and  the  church  was 
airy,  light,  and  handsome,  in  perfect  harmony  with  its  vil- 
lage. This  neatness  was  accounted  for  by  the  harvests  which 
it  overlooked,  and  showed  that,  whatever  may  be  the  general 
deficiency  or  neglect  to  use  the  gifts  presented  by  nature, 
here  a  better  police,  or  wiser  judgments,  led  to  wealth — that 
is,  true  wealth,  the  capacity  to  possess  and  enjoy  the  bounties 
of  heaven.  Wherever  this  aspect  does  not  appear,  if  nature 
has  not  denied  the  means,  it  is  an  unerring  proof  that  the 
public  administration  is  imperfect,  neglectful  of  its  duties, 
and  should  be  changed.  It  is  in  the  power  of  every  govern- 
ment to  form  the  character  of  the  people,  and  render  them 
capable  of  assuring  their  own  happiness.  The  man  who  does 
not  believe  so,  is  unfit  for  public  trust.  Mankind  are  naturally 
too  fond  of  comfort  and  enjoyment,  to  disregard  either,  when 
either  is  acquirable ;  and  no  criterion  of  the  character  of  a 
government  is  so  infallible  as  the  condition  of  the  population. 
The  village  of  Asuncion  was  a  striking  example  of  these 
truths.  We  had  not  yet  become  acquainted  with  the  author 
of  this  prosperity,  neatness,  and  superiority  of  condition  visi- 
ble in  Asuncion,  where  its  neatness,  order,  and  general  com- 
fort appeared  so  strong  as  to  mark  its  peculiarity.  It  was  the 
work  of  a  worthy  Franciscan,  Fra.  Joachim  Garcfa,with  whom 
we  soon  after  became  acquainted  on  the  road,  and  who  ac- 
companied us  with  little  deviations  from  Santa  Rosa  to  Tunja. 
The  account  of  his  happy  curacy  was  not  derived  from  him- 
self, but  from  others  with  whom  we  had  intercourse.  He 
said  nothing  of  himself,  £ind  I  feel  persuaded  that  he  travelled 
only  to  afford  us  civilities,  and  exchange  for  good  offices  the 
information  we  could  severally  give. 


384 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

New  appearances. — Anciso. — The  Goitre, — Ruins. — Cotton  cleaning' by  a  minia- 
ture gin. — Meet  a  traveller. — New  and  wild  route — imperfectly  described — 
steep  ascent  and  tremendous  descent. — Capitanejo. — The  Gallinazo  river. — 
Savage  mountain  bluffs  and  fertile  valley. — Liberty  tree,  an  extraordinary- 
scaly  palm. — Assiduous  and  civil  alcalde. — Celebrated  bridge — described. — 
Strange  sight. — A  vidette. — A  cavalcade. — The  clerical  and  civil  functionaries 
of  Suata — geneix)us  reception — hospitality— luxuriant  country — agreeable  re- 
pose and  entertainment — leave  Suata. — Another  Tartar. — Susacon — munici- 
pality come  out  to  conduct  us. — The  Calderon  family — militia  muster — hand- 
some population — tall,  very  fiiir  complexioned — well  clothed — deficient  in  arms 
— superabundant  feast — fine  fresh  butter — economy  of  the  dairy. — Curate  of 
Sativa — new  hospitalities — departure — appearances  of  the  country. 

The  country  which  had  presented  such  variety  of  strange 
forms  and  aspects,  continued  to  vary  its  features,  at  every 
stage.     Plains  had  become  more  frequent  in  the  prospect, 
and  the  peopled  tracts  showed  vast  flocks  of  cattle,  of  dif- 
ferent kinds.     We  had  now,  however,  to  pass  a  long  range 
of  paramo,  through  thick  forests,  where  the  exclusion  of  the 
sun's  rays  and  the  black  soil  made  the  road  a  series  of  mule- 
ladders,  most  fatiguing  to  the  precious  animal,  and  constantly 
appealing  to  the  experience  and  commiseration  of  the  rider. 
We  at  length  descended,  crossed  the  broad  valley  to  the  left 
or  south-east  side,  and  travelled  on  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
over  a  rocky  soil,  south  to  Anciso  ;  which  we  reached  about 
four  o'clock,  but  much  fatigued,  and  determined  to  halt  there 
that  night.     We  found  the  people  here,  and  none  more  so 
than  the  alcaldes,  attentive  and  solicitous  to  render  us  civility. 
The  goitre,  which  had  become  more  frequent  since  we  left 
the  Chitaga,  here,  perhaps,  affected  every  tenth  person,  and 
men,  to  appearance,  the  most.     The  second  alcalde,  who 
took  some  pleasure  in  communicativeness,  although  he  was 
at  constant  pains,  though  in  vain,  to  cover,  with  a  muslin 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  3§5 

scarf,  three  large  tubercles  o^  goitre,  which  grew  perpendicu- 
lar to  his  chin  in  front,  and  occupied  all  the  space  beneath 
both  ears,  was  not  backward  in  touching  on  the  subject  of 
his  disease.  He  informed  me  that  all  his  children  were  af- 
flicted by  goitre  J  and  that  one  of  his  sons  was  afflicted  to 
idiocy  by  the  disease ;  that  this  was  a  very  general  effect  on 
the  children  of  parents  who  had  goitre. 

On  the  23d  we  left  Anciso  about  nine  o'clock,  the  sun's 
rays  so  ardently  reflected  by  the  white,  sandy,  and  rocky  re- 
gion, over  which  we  were  now  passing,  though  on  the  north 
skirt  of  the  mountain,  that  we  were  induced  to  enter  the  ruins 
of  a  sugar-mill,  of  which  there  yet  remained  some  excellent 
wrecks  of  good  mechanism.  The  shed,  open  at  the  sides, 
was  more  than  thirty  yards  long,  and  about  forty  feet  broad. 
There  were  some  young  people  here  engaged  in  cleaning 
cotton  from  the  pod,  who  received  us  without  surprise  or 
apparent  concern,  offering  civilities,  and  performing  them 
without  bashfulness  or  forwardness ;  and  returning  to  their 
occupations,  while  they  freely,  but  modestly  spoke  when 
they  were  questioned. 

The  cotton-tree  was  seen  all  around  in  its  utmost  luxu- 
riance ;  cacao  and  sugar  fields,  watered  by  numerous  rivu- 
lets, flowing  below  the  scite.  They  had  a  very  simple,  but 
small  machine,  employed  in  extricating  the  seed  from  the 
cotton  ;  two  upright  wooden  shafts,  about  thirty  niches  in 
length,  two  and  a  half  inches  in  breadth,  and  three  quarters 
of  an  inch  thick,  were  made  firm  to  a  block  below,  so  that 
the  faces  of  the  two  upright  shafts  stood  parallel,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  about  four  inches.  By  means  of  mortices  in  the 
two  shafts,  two  cylinders  of  iron,  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  were  so  placed,  one  over  the  other,  and  adjusted 
by  bolsters  below,  and  wedges  above,  as  to  admit  the  en- 
largement of  the  space  between  the  cylinders  at  discretion. 
The  cylinders  were  not  more  than  three  quarters  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  upon  the  lowermost  was  fixed  a  piece  of  ox-hide 

49 


386  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

with  the  hair  outside  and  short,  serving  as  a  card  or  brush, 
which  constantly  remained  on  the  cyhnder  as  it  revolved. 
Both  cylinders  had  rounces  or  handles,  like  that  of  a  grind- 
stone or  domestic  cofFee-mill,  one  at  each  side,  and  a  boy  or 
girl  turned  each  a  cylinder,  so  that  each  person  turning  the 
cylinder  outward  from  himself,  the  two  cylinders  revolved 
in  the  same  direction  with  each  other,  and  the  fleece  from 
the  pod  being  placed  at  tlie  line  where  the  two  cylinders 
united,  the  hair  skin  on  the  lower  cylinder  caught  the  ends 
of  the  fleece,  and  so  turning  until  the  contents  of  the  pod 
was  exhausted ;  the  fleece  appeared  on  the  other  side  in 
a  clear  and  beautiful  web,  and  the  seed  remained  behind, 
falling  in  a  basket  prepared  to  receive  them.  The  cleansed 
cotton  was  then  laid  several  layers  one  on  the  other,  and  put 
up  in  small  rolls  or  knots.  The  machine  as  to  effect  was 
perfect,  but  susceptible  of  improvement,  and  capable  of  being 
wrought  with  one  person's  labour  instead  of  three ;  or  of 
being  turned  by  any  of  the  mechanical  forces  which  are 
usually  employed  elsewhere. 

A  merchant  of  Maracaibo,  who  is  well  known  in  Philadel- 
phia, met  us  at  the  foot  of  the  steep  we  were  about  to  ascend  ; 
he  was  from  Bogota,  for  Caracas,  and  we  exchanged  our 
news,  and  learned  the  rumours  from  the  opposite  directions  in 
which  we  were  travelling.  The  paramo  we  were  ascending 
led  into  a  recess,  retiring  from  the  deep  glen  along  which  we 
had  marched ;  the  valley  terminated  in  two  immense  masses  of 
perpendicular  rock,  beyond  which,  crossing  their  steep  extre- 
mities, the  glitter  of  the  sun  betrayed  the  rapid  rush  of  a  river. 
It  was  the  Capitanejo,  which  we  were  to  see  at  full  length  on 
the  other  side  of  the  ridge  we  were  now  ascending,  under  the 
name  of  Galinazo;  our  route  passing  over  wild  and  savage  piles 
of  rock,  on  beds  of  loose  fragments  of  gray  and  white  sand- 
stone, threatening  to  slide  from  its  precarious  and  tempora- 
ry bed  at  the  slightest  pressure,  and  crush  every  thing  be- 
neath ;  piles  of  rock  below  indicating  the  frequency  of  such 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  387 

formidable  ruptures  and  projections.     By  various  contor- 
tions and  laborious  windings,  we  gained  the  summit ;   and, 
on  looking  down,  the  point  of  our  ascent  appeared  underneath 
our  feet ;  it  was  like  travelling  up  the  steep  slope  of  one  of 
those  sharp-roofed  houses  which  were  formerly  so  frequent, 
and  are  not  yet  rare,  constructed  as  it  would  appear  to  pre- 
vent the  deposit  of  heavy  beds   of  snow ;   the  very  top  of 
this  mountain  was  an  angle  as   acute  as  a  ridge  tile,  upon 
which  a  mule  could  not  stand  on   either  side  without  one 
end  elevated  and  the  other  depressed.     We  expected  to  find 
the  opposite  side  a  similarly  pulverised   mass ;    but,  though 
the  unusually  ardent  sun  made  the  face  of  this  mountain  ap- 
pear to  send  forth  a  glowing  effervescence,  we  found  the 
descent  only   different  in  kind  and  variety  of  danger  and 
difficulty.      It  was  a  sort  of  perpendicular  quarry,  which 
some  violence  of  nature  had  scooped  out  of  the  mountain, 
and  formed  into  a  semi-circular  wall  of  freestone ;  a  gap  or 
path  appeared  to  have  been  picked  out  obliquely  into  a  sort 
of  gallery,  formed  of  the  shelving  rock ;  the  face  of  this  curv- 
ed wall,  or  well,  was  a  trough  of  loose,  angular,  shifting  frag- 
ments of  stone,  from  an   inch  to  four  inches  on  the  face  of 
the  angles,  a  sort  of  rubble,  such  as  is  shoved  out  of  a  stone- 
cutter's yard,  but  more  fragile  ;  on  a  scaftbld  about  three  feet 
broad,  where  broadest,  having  the  resemblance  of  steep  stairs 
or  a  winding  terrace,  or  what  other  name  may  be  applied  to 
it,  partaking  of  all,  and  like  neither ;  looking  over  the  side, 
which  was  unavoidable,  the  chasm  below  looked  tremendous; 
and  if  it  had  been  the  first  place  of  danger  we  had  met  and 
overcome,  might  have  induced  hesitation  before  we  attempt- 
ed to  descend.     I  dismounted — not  doubting  the  excellence 
of  my  mule,  to  which   I  should  have  committed   myself 
blindfold  any  where,  but  the  rubble  was  so  unequal  that  the 
mule's  legs  were  often  hid,  and  I  feared  cut  by  the  unsteady 
mass  on  which  it  trod ; — a  stone  beneath  his  foot,  with  my 
weight  on  his  back,   might,  by  defeating  liis  instinct,  have 


388  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

canted  nie  over  along  with  the  mule,  and  finished  my  jour- 
ney more  awkwardly  than  was  desirable ;  the  ease  of  tlie 
faithful  mule,  I  confess,  was  a  consideration  with  me.  Yet 
my  philosophy  was  overcome  before  I  had  descended  half 
the  way,  and  I  remounted.  Elizabeth  and  Richard  kept  their 
seats  with  as  much  sangfroid  as  if  they  were  in  a  theatre, 
and  amused  themselves  with  the  extravagant  sports  of  na- 
ture every  where  around  us,  or  as  if  they  were  only  looking 
at  paintings. 

Arrived  at  the  foot  of  this  prodigious  work  of  unciviliza- 
tion,  looking  to  the  south,  the  river  which  rises  in  the  Sier- 
ra of  Albaracin,  south  ol  Bogota,  and  which,  before  it  reach- 
es this  valley  is  called  the  Gallinazo,  but  here  is  called,  after 
the  town  by  which  it  passes,  the  Capitanejo,  was  before  us 
in  full  length  :  after  it  leaves  this  valley,  till  it  unites  its 
waters,  under  the  name  of  the  Sagomoza,  with  the  rivers 
Suares,  Moscos,  and  Sarrare,  takes  the  name  of  the  Chia 
and  Chichamocha,  till  its  descent  into  the  Magdalena,  where 
its  waters  form  a  spacious  port  called  La  Torra^  a  long  time 
abandoned,  but,  from  its  position  and  facilities,  likely  to  be- 
come an  important  commercial  entrepot  at  no  remote  period. 

This  river  moved  in  very  ample  volume  from  the  south, 
and  so  near,  before  it  turned  off  to  the  west,  that  its  rapidity 
and  unusual  line  of  descent  were  very  perceptible.  More 
than  half  a  mile  wide,  its  rapidity  resembled  the  swell  of  a 
mill-race,  immediately  after  its  issue  from  the  gorge  of  the 
dam,  and  its  force  against  the  foot  of  the  lofty  mountain  of 
rock,  against  which  it  drove  like  the  impulse  of  a  battering 
ram,  bore  at  its  base,  and  on  the  face  of  its  cliffs,  not  only  the 
evidence  of  greater  violence  and  greater  elevation,  but  that 
the  constancy  of  its  action  had  frequently  detached  vast  mas- 
ses from  above,  and  produced  that  magnificent  disorder 
which  its  front  presented.  Passing  the  eye  to  the  left  from 
this  point  where  ^ve  had  halted  to  breathe  and  congratulate 
each  other  on  our  escape  from  the  house-top,  the  town  of  Capi- 
tanejo stood  on  an  elevated  ground  which  sloped  towards  the 


j^ 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  389 

left  of  our  then  position,  and  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
which  occupied  the  west  side  of  the  valley,  with  its  single 
but  grand  palm  tree,  elevating  its  scaly  stem  120  feet,  top- 
ped by  the  elegant  forms  of  its  tan -shaped  leaves  and  branches; 
we  travelled  towards  the  town  over  a  path  that  paid 
annual  tribute  to  the  accumulating  floods  of  this  valley; 
the  sides  of  which  were  every  where  cut  into  trenches,  and 
opened  their  mouths  to  the  common  reservoir,  leaving  their 
chasms  open  like  the  teeth  of  a  saw ;  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try around  was  in  wild  disorder,  yet  upon  the  space  contigu- 
ous to  the  ordinary  elevation  of  the  floods  in  the  rainy  season, 
haciendas  and  trapiches  send  forth  their  beautiful  products 
and  their  rich  odours.  We  entered  the  town  about  five 
o'clock,  and  found  the  alcalde  in  the  suburb,  as  if  he  had 
received  intimations  of  our  approach ;  he  led  us  through  the 
great  square  by  the  foot  of  that  palm  which  we  had  distin- 
guished in  the  distance.  He  told  us  it  was  the  liberty-tree 
planted  by  the  people  soon  after  the  revolution,  and  here  it 
was  that  all  public  orations  were  delivered,  and  festivities 
celebrated  along  with  those  of  the  church,  near  which  it 
stood,  surrounded  by  a  well-built  cube  of  masonry  of  ten 
feet  on  the  face.  I  had  supposed  that  the  palms  of  Hindus- 
tan and  Pegue  surpassed  all  others  for  their  altitude,  magni- 
tude, and  the  regularity  of  their  stems,  but  this  excelled  in  all 
respects  any  that  I  had  seen  in  Asia.  We  were  conducted 
to  very  comfortable  quarters,  and  had  leisure  to  change  our 
garments,  and  take  a  ramble,  as  we  constantly  practised 
when  our  fatigue  was  not  excessive,  or  our  arrival  too  late. 

I  had  heard  very  much  of  the  bridge  of  Capitanejo  ;  it  had 
been  represented  to  me  as  if  it  was  a  new  wonder  of  the 
world  ;  perhaps  this  exaggeration  was  one  of  the  causes  that 
our  admiration  fell  short  of  this  general  opinion  in  the  town 
and  country  around  :  it  was  held  forth  as  being  thrown  over 
the  river  where  it  was  unusually  wide,  deep,  and  rapid.  Had 
this  celebrity  been  qualified  by  referring  to  the  humble  state 


390  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  all  the  arts,  obstructed  and  cut  off  by  Spanish  desire  of 
perpetuating  barbarism  ;  had  it  been  shown  as  an  object  pro- 
duced, where  there  was  neither  science  nor  models  for  imi- 
tation ;  and  in  the  entire  absence  of  those  implements  which 
facilitate  and  finish  the  works  of  well-conducted  labour  ;  or 
had  it  been  the  work  of  an  untutored  Indian,  though  still 
nowise  a  prodigy,  it  might  have  commanded  more  admira- 
tion ;  but  the  river  does  not  exceed  seventy  feet  in  breadth  ; 
and,  instead  of  six  or  seven  fathoms,  it  was  not  more  than 
ten  feet  deep.  Though  the  torrent  which  must  pass  beneath 
it  in  the  wet  season  must  be  stupendous,  it  is  not  more  than 
about  a  fifth  of  the  waters  of  the  valley  which  enter  its  chan- 
nel above  the  bridge,  as  the  bridge  is  not  distant  from  the 
upper  extremity  of  the  valley,  v>'hich  is  about  three  miles 
and  a  half  long,  and  about  two  miles  broad. 

Capitanejo  is  on  the  more  elevated  part  of  the  east  side  of 
the  valley,  and  it  is  united  by  the  bridge  with  a  causeway 
well  formed,  having  flank  or  wing  walls  of  good  miasonry, 
broad  and  inclining  outward  as  you  approach  the  causeway, 
and  closing  as  the  bridge  is  approached.     There  was  skill 
and  forecast,  and  labour  judiciously  applied  on  this  part  of 
the  work,  which  had  a  gradual  ascent  to  the  immediate  en- 
trance upon  the  bridge ;  good  buttresses  of  stone- work  sus- 
tained the  walls  of  the  causeway,  and  the  road  on  the  surface 
was  excellent.     Having  gained  the  summit  of  the  causeway, 
the  entrance  to  the  bridge  is  closed  by  a  double  gate  of  good 
workmanlike  execution,  and  the  bridge  being  "  well  housed^'' 
with  a  competent  roof;  within  the  gates  are  apartments  for 
the  keepers.     I  think  it  was  a  tnedia  for  every  unburdened 
mule  and  head  of  cattle,  that  is  the  sixteenth  of  a  dollar,  six 
and  a  quarter  cents — laden  mules  paying  double.     The  mi- 
litary and  members  of  the  government  are  exempted  from 
toll,  and  no  doubt  the  religious  also. 

The  roof  over  the  bridge  was  constructed  in  a  good  plain 
btyle  of  carpentry,  that  betrayed  in  its  forms  a  foreign  hand ; 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  SQi 

there  was  an  attempt  at  a  rough  facade  on  the  exterior  of 
both  sides,  though  it  was  not  until  after  passing  midway,  or 
after  crossing  and  moving  out  of  the  Hne  of  its  prolongation, 
that  the  pediment  above  and  the  gallery-Hke  hand-rail  were 
seen  to  advantage,  and  the  principle  of  the  bridge  brought  to 
the  eye.  Another  gate  and  lodge  was  on  the  west  side,  and 
was  entered  from  another  cause- way ;  the  platform  or  path 
of  the  bridge  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river. 

The  bridge  is  not  an  arch  of  wood  or  stone  ;  the  piers  on- 
ly are  of  massy  stone,  well  wrought  into  masonry,  ten  feet 
above  the  water  level.  Upon  the  summit  of  the  stone  piers 
floors  of  the  most  durable  timbers  of  the  country  are  formed, 
the  squared  ends  side  by  side  projecting  over  the  stream 
about  twelve  to  fifteen  inches ;  another  floor  is  laid  upon  the 
first,  of  which  the  ends  projecting  over  the  first,  as  the  first 
project  beyond  the  stone  pier ;  a  third  still  projects  farther, 
until  the  height  required  is  gained ;  and  the  like  process  on 
the  opposite  side ;  the  courses  being  ten  or  twelve,  say  ten, 
gives  a  projection  of  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  over  the  river. 
Beams  adapted  to  the  space  unoccupied  are  now  thrown 
across,  and  by  the  usual  sort  of  carpentry  the  whole  are  so  se- 
cured, that  the  superstructure  becomes  an  easy  ordinary 
work.  The  timbers,  of  which  the  ends  project,  being  very 
long  and  buried  in  a  bed  of  stone  and  mortar,  so  as  to  ex- 
clude moisture  and  bind  them  in  their  position,  left  only 
the  wing-walls  and  the  braced  causeways  to  finish  the  work. 

The  workmanship  is  more  useful  than  elegant,  and  be- 
trays the  hand  of  a  European  carpenter,  who  in  his  rambles 
through  the  world,  discovered  that  with  very  moderate  me- 
chanical skill  he  could  render  great  benefit ;  though  his  suc- 
cess seems  to  have  turned  his  head,  having  abandoned  la- 
bour. I  understood  he  was  now  travelling  through  the  sur- 
rounding country  living  upon  the  fame  of  the  bridge  of  Ca- 
pitanejo,   and  is  looked   upon  much  in  the  same  light  as 


392  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

Faust  the  printer,  who  it  was  believed  could  never  have  ac- 
complished such  works  without  the  aid  of  the  devil. 

The  utility  of  this  bridge  is  unquestionable,  as  the  toll 
testifies.  On  the  24th  January  we  crossed  the  Capitanejo  at  a 
quarter  before  nine  o'clock,  and  proceeded  without  any  in- 
cident unusual,  until  we  halted  in  the  forest,  at  a  rivulet, 
where  we  remained  some  time  in  the  delicious  shade ;  we 
were  again  on  our  way  towards  Suata  about  four  o'clock, 
\A'hen  the  sergeant,  whose  military  habits  had  made  his  eye  a 
perpetual  centinel,  discovered  a  sort  of  tartar-looking  cava- 
lier, or  outscout,  apparently  reconnoitring,  and  who,  upon 
obtaining  a  distinct  view  of  our  party,  took  to  his  ass's  heels 
and  scoured  the  plain,  the  side  of  the  precipice,  and  the  val- 
ley, as  if  his  Pegasus,  like  that  of  Belerephon,  had  wings  ;  and 
in  truth  the  appearance  of  his  romero  floating  on  the  wind  ho- 
rizontally behind,  gave  him  the  appearance  of  flying :  the 
sergeant  had  set  out  with  his  lance  couched,  the  very  mo- 
ment he  discovered  this  vidette,  but  he  lost  the  race,  and  he 
had  just  commenced  a  prognostic  of  some  danger,  when  an 
enemy,  of  a  diflfercnt  character  from  that  he  apprehended,  ap- 
peared in  front,  and  spoiled  his  anticipation. 

A  cavalcade  of  fifty  or  sixty  persons  moved  towards  us, 
and  from  among  them  the  Belerephon  who  had  excited  the 
sergeant's  vigilance  rode  up,  and  enquired  for  me  by  name, 
intimating  that  the  curate,  and  alcalde,  and  the  principal 
citizens  of  Suata  had  come  to  escort  us  into  town,  and  pray 
our  company  to  an  entertainment.  The  curate  himself  now 
approached,  and  after  introductions  had  passed  round,  we 
moved  into  Suata,  bag  and  baggage,  in  the  midst  of  this  live- 
ly civic  train. 

We  alighted  at  the  house  of  the  curate,  a  cheerful  jolly 
gentleman,  without  any  of  the  starch  of  clerical  stiffiiess,  and 
as  we  found,  on  nearer  acquaintance,  without  any  of  that  in- 
solent austerity,  which  so  ill  becomes  a  Christian  pastor,  and 
casts  a  gloom  over  moments  that  cannot  be  rationally  taken 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  393 

from  human  happiness,  and  wherever  practised,  or  by  whatever 
sect,  against  another,  or  their  educated  opinions,  is  ahvays  a 
proof  of  superstition  in  him  who  is  capable  of  displaying  it. 
Had  we  been  his  richest  and  most  bountiful  parishioners 
he  could  not  have  treated  us  more  kindly,  from  whom  he 
had  nothing  to  expect. 

We  were  at  our  ease  in  a  moment ;  several  citizens,  men 
of  good  intelligence,  formed  a  little  assembUige,  and  the  cu- 
rate, who  was  more  conversant  on  human  affairs  ancient  and 
recent,  than  might  have  been  expected  in  so  remote  a  quarter 
of  the  Andes,  and  especially  so  near  Capitanejo,  which  looked 
like  that  chaos  which  was  at  the  beginning,  and  is  to  be  at 
the  end  of  the  world. 

The  country  here  had  a  very  different  aspect,  and  a  little 
enthusiasm  and  a  little  imagination  well  mixed  up,  might 
make  out  of  it  a  better  paradise  than  some  ingenious  men 
have  heretofore  demonstrated.  The  air  was  exhilarating,  the 
country  rich  and  blooming,  and  every  one  solicitous  to  oblige 
"US  ;  we  were  conducted  into  a  commodious  and  well-fur- 
nished apartment,  where  we  found  glass  windows,  and  a  table 
spread  with  snow-white  damask,  and  an  ample  and  luxurious 
feast.  The  table  was  exactly  full ;  and,  although  the  curate 
was  abstemious  himself,  he  put  about  the  bottle  of  excellent 
Canary  with  the  course  of  the  sun,  and  gave  some  compli- 
mentary and  some  political  toasts,  and  appeared  as  full  of  en- 
joyment as  if  he  partook  himself  of  the  circling  glass.  He 
had  appropriated  some  sweet  wines,  real  sack,  for  the  Seho- 
rita  Americana^  as  he  called  Elizabeth  ;  and  for  us  all  no  en- 
tertainment could  be  more  timely,  nor  more  agreeable,  from 
the  kindness  with  which  it  was  given.  We  enjoyed  it  the 
more  upon  contrasting  the  present  with  our  passage  over  the 
short  roof,  and  over  the  wall  of  the  freestone  well,  and  (I 
was  going  to  say)  the  infernal  regions  of  Capitanejo  ;  but 
these  recollections  soon  fled  before  our  present  enjoyments, 
and  our  good  spirits :   our  pleasure   had  not  flagged  when 

50 


394  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  coffee  appeared  in  social  style,  followed  by  chocolate  in 
freshness  and  fragrance  ;  and  so  we  sipped  and  chatted  till  it 
was  near  nine ;  arid  if  Elizabeth  had  not  unwittingly  yawned, 
which  the  attentive  curate  translated  into  a  signal  for  retiring,  I 
think  I  should  have  been  apt  to  have  sat  till  midnight.  It  was 
a  two-story  house,  and  the  curate  himself  led  and  placed  us 
in  the  separate  but  contiguous  rooms  that  had  been  prepared 
for  us.  Every  convenience  that  could  be  found  in  an  opulent 
house  in  Philadelphia,  we  found  here;  excellent  feather  beds, 
and  sheeting,  napkins,  basons,  soap,  brushes,  mirrors,  &c. 

We  rose  at  seven  o'clock  on  the  26th  of  January,  and  a 
breakfast  awaited  us  with  the  kind  gratulations  of  the  wor- 
thy priest ;  we  had  trays  of  fine  and  various  fruit,  coffee  and 
chocolate,  fine  white  bread,  sponge  cake,  and  the  never- failing 
sweetmeats.  It  being  Sunday,  while  our  host  was  at  prayers, 
we  made  an  inspection  of  our  wardrobes  and  a  change  of 
apparel,  which  our  comfortable  close  apartments  enabled  us 
to  do  at  leisure,  and  we  spent  the  day  most  agreeably. 

We  left  Suata,  accompanied  by  our  good  curate  and 
friends,  who  escorted  us  into  town,  and  parted  with  them  at 
ten.  The  sergeant  said  he  should  be  content  to  live  at  Suata 
a  couple  of  months  ;  but  at  the  moment,  he  descried  another 
Tartar,  who,  after  seeing  us,  made  a  flight  across  the  fields 
like  his  predecessor,  and  soon  after  the  whole  municipality  of 
Susacan  approached  :  after  salutations,  we  pursued  our  way 
to  the  lofty,  open,  airy  town  on  the  side  of  a  gentle  slope : 
the  curate  was  advanced  in  years  and  unable  to  ride,  but  sent 
his  gratulations,  and  the  alcalde,  Senor  Calderon,  as  he  had 
to  himself  all  the  honour,  determined  to  share  it  with  his 
wife,  a  lovely  buxom  gentlewoman,  tall  but  full,  about 
thirty-four  years  of  age,  and  fair,  and  in  as  full  roseate  bloom 
as  any  Hibernian  mountain  nymph.  She  had  two  sisters,  and 
two  younger  daughters  like  herself;  and  the  honest  alcalde 
seemicd  to  feel  his  delight  doubled  by  the  pleasure  so  mani- 
fest in  the  countenances  of  his  really  charming  wife  and  their 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  393 

female  friends.  I  felt  not  a  little  pleasure  myself  at  seeing 
this  fine  group,  and  their  innocent  and  fond  curiosity ;  they 
were  never  tired  of  conversing  and  examining  Elizabeth, 
whose  cheeks  here  found  rivals ;  and  they  tittered  with  open 
eyes  of  surprise  and  delight,  when  told  that  all  the  sefioritas 
(young  ladies)  of  North  America  were  of  the  same  complex- 
ion. "  O  madrede  dios  /"  exclaimed  the  girls,  and  they  blushed 
and  apologised  for  their  incredulity.  The  good  lady  of  the 
house  had  left  the  young  folks  together,  and  I  mixed  with 
the  crowd,  which  was  considerable,  it  being  muster  day  of 
the  militia.  I  could  not  but  contrast  the  appearance  of  these 
comely,  well-clad,  cleap,  cheerful,  and  orderly  peasantry,  with 
those  I  had  seen  in  other  towns,  such  as  Truxillo,  Valeria,  &:c. 
Indeed  there  is  a  striking  difference  between  the  appearance 
of  the  people  in  Venezuela  and  Cundinamarca  :  the  change  is 
evident  before  leaving  Venezuela,  for,  after  reaching  Mucha- 
chees,  the  country  presents  on  the  plains  more  cattle,  better 
farmers'  houses,  and  a  cheerful  people.  The  war  had  desolated 
Venezuela  so  much  more  than  Nevy  Granada,  that  it  is  seen  in 
the  visages  as  well  as  in  the  houses  and  apparel  of  the  people. 

The  officers  of  the  militia,  chosen  by  themselves,  did  not 
exceed  their  just  authority.  The  sound  of  the  bugle  brought 
them  into  line  of  double  files.  They  had  but  very  few  mus- 
kets, but  they  had  "  the  queen  of  weapons,"  the  lance,  in 
abundance  ;  they  looked  very  well,  but  did  not  move,  which 
I  regretted.  The  population  here  was  taller  than  usual  else- 
where :  the  good  lady  was  herself  tall ;  and  the  female  specta- 
tors were  fair  and  rosy-cheeked. 

The  alcalde  introduced  me  to  several  of  his  relatives,  as  if  1 
had  been  also  one  of  his  relations  ;  and  by  the  time  the  muster 
was  over,  about  two  o'clock,  we  were  summoned  to  dinner  ; 
we  were  placed  on  each  side  of  the  interesting  mistress  of  the 
house,  and  the  table  was  long,  well-covered,  and  the  seats  full. 
It  seems  an  entertainment  had  been  prepared  the  preceding 
day,  but  our  spending  Sunday  at   Suata  had  marred  that 


396  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

purpose  ;   but  time  only  Avas  lost.     The  good  lady  did  the 
honours  of  her  tabic  with  the  simple  dignity  and  ease  that 
marked  her  appearance  ^vhen  I  first  saw  her ;  every  one  was 
attended  to  ;  and  as  she  was  aware  that  certain  products,  to 
which  we  are  accustomed  in  the  United  States,  were  not  al- 
ways to  be  found  on  the  road,  she  had  been  at  her  dairy,  and 
presented  us  with  some  fine  pale- gold  coloured  butter,  equal 
to  any  the  Philadelphia  market  affords.     It  was  a  whim  that 
induced  one  of  the  young  ladies  to  form  it  into  an  imitation 
of  the  shupe  of  a  cow,  and  so  it  was  placed  before  us.     The 
butter  was  of  the  finest  flavour,  as  its  appearance  indicated, 
and  we  used  it  with  sliced  bread,  and  the  hearts  of  the  best 
celery.     The  good  lady  and  her  female  friends  were  delight- 
ed w^ith  Elizabeth,  as  she  w^as  with  them,  their  manners  were 
so  unaffected  and  ingenuous  :  they  threatened  to  overload  her 
with  sweetmeats  and  other  articles  that  w^re   transportable, 
preserved  fruits,  ginger,  citrons,  oranges,  limes,  and  half  a 
dozen  small  pots,  of  which  we  did  not  know  m.ore  of  the  con- 
tents than  their  excellence.     These  were  placed  in  charge  of 
the  sergeant,  with  an  injunction  of  secrecy,  and  he  was  true 
to  his  trubt ;  for  our  first  knowledge  of  their  possession  was 
on  a  paramo,  where  there  was  no  opportunity  of  procuring 
refreshments,  which  made  the  kindness  of  the  charming  fa- 
mily of  the  alcaide  of  Susacon  of  tenfold  value. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  notice  the  process  of  the  dairy  in 
the  preparation  of  butter,  at  Susacon,  and  other  places.  The 
milk,  kept  in  pans  of  the  country  manufacture,  is  skimmed  of 
the  cream  in  the  usual  way ;  it  is  transferred  to  a  round 
earthen  pot,  which  is  suspended  by  cords  so  as  to  be  swung, 
and  ierked,  and  agitated,  till  the  butter  is  separated,  and 
taken  out  carefully,  placed  in  clean  cotton  cloths,  and  com- 
pressed till  the  milk  is  entirely  extracted ;  but  the  economy 
of  salting  appears  not  to  be  known,  or  not  to  be  regarded,  as 
there  is  a  general  prejudice  against  salt,  though  I  understood 
that  prejudice  to  be  giving  way  very  much.     In  other  parts 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  397 

of  the  country  I  have  understood,  that  butter  is  produced  by 
a  more  rude  process,  the  cream  being  put  into  a  leather 
bag,  and  shaken  till  the  effect  is  produced.  The  churn  and 
staff,  and  the  revolving-churn,  are  unknown  where  I  have 
been.  I  have  often  wished  that  it  was  within  my  power  to 
present  some  perfect  utensils  of  this  kind  to  the  amiable  fa- 
mily, as  an  evidence  of  the  gratitude  of  which  their  kind- 
ness has  left  a  deep  impression. 

We   broke  away  from  these  charming  and   kind  people 
about  half  past  three  o'clock,  much  against  their  wishes  and 
endeavours  to  detain  us  at  least  a  week  ;  and  it  is  question- 
able whether  the    parting  did  not  overbalance,  in  painful 
feeling,  the  gratification  of*  an  intimacy,  which,  though  so 
short,  was  delightful  and   honourable  to  the  human  heart. 
The  curate  of  Sativa,  who  had  expected  us  two  days  be- 
fore, had  come  to  Susacan  in  search  of  us,  and  now  accom- 
panied us  to  his  parish.     As  we  approached  Sativa,  the  cor- 
poration came  out  to  receive  us,  and  as  we  entered  the  vil- 
lage, a  group  of  young  ladies  of  the  neighbourhood  presented 
themselves  to  receive  the  Senorita  Americana,  of  whose  ap- 
proach they  had  somehow  heard  three  or  four  days  preceding. 
Where  the  young  ladies  are,  the  gentlemen  will  follow,  and 
their  salutations  were,  Fiva  la  Republica  Americana !  Viva 
Bolivar  /  Viva !  Viva  ! — for,  unless  Bolivar  be  associated 
with  every  festive  act,  the  act  is  incomplete.     It  was  some 
time  after  five  o'clock  when  we  entered  Sativa.    Our  halt  on 
Sunday  had  disappointed  the  expectations  of  those  good  peo- 
ple, and  preparations  had  been  made  for  our   entertainment, 
of  which  we  had  the  evidence  on  our  arrival.     A   spacious 
table,  covered  with  damask  cloths,  viands  in   great  abun- 
dance and  variety,  alternating  with  bouquettes  of  pinks  of  un- 
usual tints  and  magnitude,  and  whose  perfume  mixed  with 
that  of  the  jessamine  and  rose,  and  other  flowers  of  great 
beauty,  which  were  strangers  to   me,  impregnated  the  air. 
Fruit,  pastry,  wines,  red  and  white,  were  abundant  and  ex- 


398  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

cellent,  and  the  worthy  curate,  who  was  not  feared  by  his  pa- 
rishioners, and  who  mingled  in  the  spirit  of  equality  with 
the  crowds  that  were  drawn  hither  to  see  the  sights  sat 
with  us,  and  enjoyed  the  pleasure  and  conviviality  of  the  en- 
tertainment he  had  prepared  for  us. 

It  is  proper  once  for  all  to  state,  that  in  the  whole  course 
of  this  kindness  and  honour  so  unexpectedly  bestowed  on 
us,  we  had  no  expense  to  incur ;  that  the  generosity  was 
spontaneous,  and  had  its  compensation  in  its  own  grateful- 
ness, and  our  comfort  and  gratification. 

On  the  28th,  escorted  as  before,  we  left  Sativa  :  the  prac- 
tice of  "doing  good  by  stealth,"  of  which  we  had  many  ex- 
amples, as  well  as  at  Susacon,  was  here  practised  upon  us 
also.  The  curate  had  caused  a  very  fine  turkey  to  be  roast- 
ed, and  placed  in  charge  of  the  sergeant,  who  was  told,  that 
in  a  few  hours  after  our  departure  we  should  have  a  paramo 
to  pass,  which  would  give  a  better  relish  to  our  dinner.  I 
soon  experienced  the  sensation  of  hunger  on  the  rough, 
windi:^,  and  steep  passages,  and,  when  we  had  descended  to 
the  plain,  I  was  agreeably  surprized  on  alighting  at  the  hamlet 
of  Tienrey^  by  the  appearance  of  the  roast  turkey,  and  a  bot- 
tle of  wine,  of  which  two  accompanied  the  good  curate's 
providence. 

Though  the  roads,  if  paths  for  which  art  had  done  no- 
thing can  be  properly  so  called,  were  rugged  and  precipi- 
tous, the  atmosphere  in  this  day's  journey  was  warm,  but  not 
oppressive  ;  population  appeared  to  be  considerable  ;  and  as 
no  very  high  mountains  appeared,  perhaps,  as  Humboldt  says, 
because  "  the  Andes  were  beneath  our  feet,"  the  verdure 
all  around  was  uninterrupted ;  there  were  indeed  no  level 
tracts,  but  hill  and  dale,  and  many  dwellings,  and  number- 
less cattle,  were  seen  in  every  direction.  The  population  and 
dress,  which  changed  from  light  to  dark  near  Muchachees, 
and  again  became  lighter  in  the  v/armer  valleys,  between 
that  place  and  Pamplona,  where  colours  became  sombre  and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  399 

clothing  warmer,  on  this  route  had  assumed  a  medium ;  the 
body  clothing  being  generally  light,  but  never  separated 
from  some  warmer  garment,  which  was  worn  in  the  cool 
air  of  the  morning,  or  put  on  with  the  setting  light  of  the 
evening. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Theatre  of  Bolivar's  greatest  triumph — an  intelligent  fellow-traveller — ideas  of 
the  Moscas  nation — metaphysical  notions — a  vast  chasm  in  the  Cordillera  ^a 
work  of  human  labour — traditions — Serinza — Spanish  desolation — another 
Tartar  videtta — cavalcade — alcalde — meet  a  Caracas  acquaintance — traits  of 
the  people — entertainment — position  of  Serinza — departure — the  paramo  fer- 
tile— sapling  fences — ploughing — M.  xMollien,  a  French  traveller — his  views 
contrasted — extravagant  mistakes — hypochondria — anecdotes  of  M.  Mollien 
— patriotism  and  generosity  of  the  people  of  Serinza — the  white  heron — cats 
metamorphosed  into  warming  pans. 

The  country  around  us  and  over  which  we  were  passing, 
at  this  moment  possesses  a  celebrity  which  belongs  alike  to 
aboriginal  traditions  and  more  recent  history.  To  the  right, 
south  and  west  of  our  route,  lay  before  us  the  plains  of  So- 
gamoso,  and  from  Paypa  to  the  marshes  of  Vargas,  Santa 
Rosa,  and  Tunja,  to  Boyacca,  is  the  theatre  of  that  series  of 
military  operations,  which  followed  Bolivar's  astonishing 
passage  of  the  Andes  from  Mantecal,  and  terminated  at  once 
the  hopes  of  Spain  at  Boyacca.  Here  the  issue  was  decided 
that  established  the  seat  of  the  republic  in  the  centre  of  the 
Andes,  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean.  A  plain-look- 
ing country  gentleman  travelling  on  the  same  route  towards 
Serinza,  entered  into  discourse  as  we  rode  along  the  plat- 
form of  one  of  those  singularly  formed  and  sublime  summits. 
He  was  conversant  in  traditions,  and  drew  my  attention  to  the 
plain  of  Sogamoso,  which,  though  not  very  distinctly  visible, 


400  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Was  perceptible  in  the  distance  like  a  vast  field  with  a  low 
dark  mound  at  its  extremity.  He  mentioned  some  instances 
of  the  institutions  of  the  natives,  as  he  considered,  indicative 
of  a  higher  state  of  civilization  than  was  usually  allowed 
by  European  writers ;  I  urged  that  their  superstitions  were 
rather  adverse  to  the  idea  of  much  refinement,  as  well  as  the 
absence  of  certain  arts,  and  above  all  the  want  of  iron ;  and 
urged  that  high  refinement,  such  as  reason  and  humanity 
would  inculcate,  was  not  to  be  expected  where  the  arts  did 
not  also  flourish.  I  confess  I  spoke  rather  from  a  desire  to  beci- 
vil  and  sociable,  than  with  any  other  view,  unless  it  was  that  I 
found  some  difficulty  from  a  yet  deficient  readiness  or  want  of 
confidence  in  my  power  of  communicating  my  ideas  in  a  lan- 
guage of  which  my  knowledge  was  more  incidental  than  stu- 
died. He  descanted  on  the  high  civilization  of  the  Moscas,  the 
works  they  had  accomplished,  the  artificial  nature  of  their  chro- 
nology, and  the  progress  they  made,  compared  w'ith  other  na- 
tive nations  ;  that  they  were  clothed  in  fabrics  of  their  own 
manufacture  ;  that  they  had  a  knowledge  of  gold,  copper, 
and  lead,  if  not  of  silver ;  and  it  ^vas  supposed  of  tin  ;  that 
they  had  many  refinements  in  the  furniture  of  their  temples, 
and  domestic  econoniy  ;  and  that  their  agriculture  was  ex- 
tensive and  methodically  carried  on.  I  ventured  to  remark 
that  in  some  of  their  institutions,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Peru- 
vians and  Mexicans,  I  could  perceive  very  remarkable  coin- 
cidences with  different  sects  of  the  Hindus  ;  that  the  Mex- 
icans  appeared  to  resemble  the  worshippers  of  Seib  or  Chiven^ 
which  was  a  system  of  demoniacal  terror,  and  that,  like  the 
early  Jews,  they  offered  up  human  sacrifices  ;  that  the  Peru- 
vians resembled  the  worshippers  of  Fichenou,  the  Genius  of 
good,  the  Preserver ;  and  that  the  Moscas  were  an  interme- 
diate sect,  who  had  discarded  human  sacrifice  in  the  detail, 
and  had  only  preserved  it  in  rare  cases,  and  in  all  other  rites 
were  very  much  like  some  worshippers  of  Ficheiiou.  How 
they  could  come  to  derive  their  systems,  I  did  not   pretend 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  401 

to  premise ;  nor  were  my  ideas,  on  this  subject,  peculiarly 
mine. 

"  Ah  !  senor !  said  he,  religion  is  constitutional,  to  a  being 
who  knows  nothing  but  what  he  sees — understands  it  very 
little — and  knows  nothing  of  the  cause,  or  the  purpose,  or 
the  end  of  his  being.  His  existence  is  a  mystery,  and  he  is 
therefore  prone  to  mystery  himself.  The  Moscas  who  oc- 
cupied those  plains,  had  the  same  natural  faculties  as  all 
others  of  the  human  species — and  some  among  them  found 
out,  that  they  could  be  governed  by  fear — and  they  set  up 
chimeras  to  supply  the  means  by  which  they  could  hold  the 
less  discerning  in  subjection."  But  I  observed,  they  had 
also  called  in  the  agency  of  hope.  "  O  sir,''  said  he,  "  hope 
is  only  the  offspring  of  fear ;  hope  has  no  existence  alone ; 
it  may  be  the  illusion  of  the  miserable,  upon  whom  fear  has 
already  laid  its  heavy  manacles  ;  but  where  there  is  happi- 
ness there  can  be  no  occasion  for  hope  ;  like  that  of  its, oppo- 
site— the  presence  of  hope  is  already  realized." 

I  found  some  difficulty  in  comprehending  him,  and  am 
not  very  certain  that  I  have  exactly  expressed  his  sentiments, 
but  I  was  not  a  little  suprised  to  hear  them  from  an  inhabi- 
tant of  the  Andes — he  drew  my  attention  to  a  remarkable 
opening  in  a  distant  range  of  the  cordillera  on  our  left — it  ap- 
peared to  the  eye  as  if  a  large'  space  of  the  mountain  had  been 
sawn  across,  in  a  line  very  steep  and  sharply  defined,  at  two 
places,  to  appearance,  which  was  at  a  great  distance,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  apart,  and  the  intermediate  mountain  complete- 
ly removed  ;  I  expressed  my  impression  to  him.  "  Yes," 
said  he,  "  it  is  precisely  what  you  have  supposed  it  to  be ; 
there  is  an  evidence  of  the  power  of  superstition  ;  but  it  is  al- 
so a  proof  of  the  vastness  of  the  population  which  once  oc- 
cupied those  regions — immense  as  it  may  appear,  that  ex- 
cavation is  the  work  of  human  labour  ;  that  is  only  a  path 
opened  to  the  plains,  and  it  is  but  the  intersecting  point  of 
an  inclined  plain  which  is  continued  four  hundred  miles  into 

51 


40S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

the  Llanos,  and  of  which  the  counterpart  is  on  the  other  side 
of  this  mountain,  which,  though  not  of  such  magnitude,  ex- 
tends into  that  plain  of  Sogomosa,  which  is  now  of  such 
charming  temperature,  though  tradition  has  represented  it  as " 
before  entirely  sterile.  By  the  construction  of  new  moun- 
tains, and  changing  the  direction  of  the  old,  numerous 
streams  have  been  dispersed  over  regions  before  sterile,  and 
which  are  now  rich,  and  fruitful,  and  salubrious." 

These  circumstances  were  entirely  new  to  me — and,  I 
confess,  doubtful ;  but  it  would  not  have  been  decorous  to 
dispute  what  he  gave  only  as  tradition.  The  work  he  de- 
scribed appeared  too  much  for  human  hands  to  perform, 
though  I  could  not  but  frequently  remark,  on  looking  at  the 
aspects  around,  that  those  sports  of  nature  have  certainly  some- 
thing like  the  appearance  of  order,  method,  and  art.  I  in- 
quired as  to  the  supposed  author,  or  chief,  who  directed  these 
great  works.  He  said  "  the  tradition  attributes  them  to  a 
Zupa^  named  Sojamuje^  who  was  at  the  same  time  the  po- 
litical and  sacerdotal  chief;  and  he  was  a  descendant  of -60- 
chicha?'' — and  he  added,  he  is  considered  as  either  Noah  or 
Adam^  I  know  not  which.  The  nation  was  called  Miskayas 
or  Mozcas,  and  were  here  when  the  Spaniards  arrived  ;  they 
were  reputed  to  have  expelled  a  race  less  civilized,  but  had 
taken  up  the  religious  system  of  those  they  had  superseded, 
and  had  erected  numerous  splendid  temples,  which  the  Span- 
iards found  when  they  invaded  the  country,  and  who  over- 
threw and  destroyed  them — vindicating,  as  they  said,  the 
cause  of  God — as  if  God  stood  in  need  of  human  vindica- 
tors ;  but  their  zeal,  SeSor,  was  only  the  corner-stone  of 
their  avarice — and  that  zeal  which  consigned  the  poor  Moz- 
cas to  the  flames,  only  to  enrich  the  oppressors  with  the 
gold  which  embellished  those  structures."  He  added  that 
*'  the  tradition  states,  and  it  is  another  evidence  of  the  civili- 
lization  and  numbers  of  this  native  nation,  that  the  confla- 
gration made  of  their  temples  by  the  Spaniards,  had  not 
ceased  at  the  end  of  five  vears !" 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  403 

We  were  now  approaching  the  defiles  which  lead  into  the 
plains  of  Serinza,  and  our  communicative  fellow-traveller 
took  a  path  more  south,  while  we  contimied  our  route  south- 
west. I  took  his  information  as  he  had  given  it,  but  as  I 
had  not  made  any  note  of  it  till  we  reached  Santa  Rosa, 
much  of  what  he  said  escaped  me,  and  I  omit  more  which 
I  am  not  sufficiently  satisfied  that  I  understood,  and,  as  it 
was  of  an  unusually  bold  cast  of  thought,  I  do  not  wish  to 
risk  misapprehension.  It  struck  me  that  if  this  long,  artifi- 
cial, inclined  plane,  really  existed,  that  Bolivar  must  have 
known  it,  and  made  it  his  route  from  Mantecalm  1819,  in- 
stead of  crossing  the  Paramo  of  Chisga. 

We  continued  to  wind  through  the  mazes  of  the  moun- 
tains, their  abrupt  bluffs,  their  rocky  ravines,  and  the  flow  of 
innumerable  rivulets  prattling  over  the  pebbles.  We  at 
length  reached  a  more  tranquil,  and  deep,  and  broader  stream, 
which  came  lingering  along  to  meet  us,  as  the  plain  of  Se- 
rinza opened  before  us.  The  space  was  so  extensive  that 
the  paramos  in  the  distance  north-west  and  west,  seemed 
diminished,  and  stood  like  stacks  of  grain  in  groups.  The 
plain  spread  broadly  to  the  west,  and  some  beautiful  rivulets 
stole  along  in  broad  meanders.  Here  and  there  were  patch- 
es of  verdant  grass,  and  again  tufts  of  rank  marsh  grass  and 
rushes,  among  which  were  seen  the  gray-bittern,  but  more 
numerously,  the  snow  white-heron,  marching  like  a  grena- 
dier, in  grave  and  regular  cadence ;  slowly  lifting  its  long 
leg,  distending  and  planting  it  abruptly,  looking  to  the  right 
and  left  the  while,  as  if  dressing  by  a  guide  on  the  flank  of  a 
platoon. 

To  the  left  of  the  plain  over  which  our  road  lay,  there 
appeared  a  scene  of  desolation  : — pita  walls,  in  the  greater 
part  of  the  country,  are  the  common  fences  and  bounds  of 
rich  plantations,  usually  six  or  eight  feet  high,  and  capped 
with  stones.  After  some  four  or  five  miles  along  the  skirt 
of  the   plain,  in  a  south  direction,  we  were  intercepted  by 


404  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

these  pita  walls,  which  crossed  the  whole  plain  in  an  oblique 
direction,  about  two  points  south  6f  west ;  here  we  entered 
upon  a  spacious  causeway,   thirty  feet   broad,  with  ditches 
on  each  side,  and  abundantly  supplied  with  flowing  water ; 
beyond  the  ditches  pita  whIIs,  from  which  other  walls  issued 
in  various  angles,   forming  the  bounds  of  fields  wont  to  be 
covered  by  rich  harvests,  but  which  the  armies  of  Spain  had 
consigned  to  sterility  and  ruin.     The  walls  of  houses,  whose 
ruins  spoke  their  former  amplitude,  were  every  where  visi- 
ble ;   we  had   not  yet  seen  a  glimpse  of  Serinza ;  we  ap- 
proached more  near  the  Sierra  on  the  west  side,  but  the  long 
causeway  and  the  long  pita  walls  appeared  still  to  promise 
no  end.     Here  and  there  a  chasm  in  the  wall  had  been  made 
by  the  unregulated  stream,  which   had  been  visibly  directed 
by  art  over  an  immense  surface,  for  the  purposes  of  irriga- 
tion ;  the  wantonness  of  the  enemy,   and  the  magnitude  of 
the  dnniage,  aggravated  the  ruin   by  the  hopelessness  of  at- 
tempting to  mend  or  repair  works  which  had  been  produced 
only  by  great  opulence,  and  many  years  of  systematic  labour. 

While  we  were  ambling  along  this  endless  causeway, 
amidst  these  apparently  interminable  ruins,  the  sergeant  de- 
scried another  Tartar  a-head,  and  put  his  spur  to  his  mule 
to  speak  him  ;  but  in  vain  :  as  soon  as  he  reconnoitered  and 
perceived  a  lady  in  company,  instead  of  passing  along  the 
route  which  we  were  going,  he  broke  into  a  gap  in  the  an- 
gle of  a  wall,  and  was  seen  flying  along  the  plain  diagonally, 
and  leading  the  eye  in  the  direction  of  the  town,  a  glimpse 
of  which  only  we  yet  saw.  Having  gained  the  point  at 
which  the  outscout  entered,  we  had  to  travel  along  the  mar- 
gin of  a  very  fine  rapid  stream,  sufiicient  to  supply  ten  thou- 
sand mills  with  water-power. 

Very  soon  a  numerous  cavalcade  appeared,  with  which  we 
were  instantly  in  contact — the  alcalde  complimented  us  on 
our  arrival,  and  made  introductions  to  the  notables  of  the  place 
follo\ved  :  v/e  proceeded  on  to  Serinza.     The  military  com- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  40S 

mandant,  who  was  a  colonel  of  militia,  received  us  as  we 
entered  the  town,  and  our  quarters  were  a  matter  of  amica- 
ble contention.  We  had  not  advanced  quite  to  the  town, 
when  we  recognised  some  officers  in  the  Colombian  uniform, 
on  horseback,  dashing  towards  us  in  the  desperate  style  of 
riding  so  common  in  Colombia ;  it  was  Colonel  Lyster, 
and  five  other  officers  of  the  Irish  legion,  on  their  way 
to  join  the  army  under  General  Urdaneta.  Lyster  was 
from  the  same  county  in  Ireland  as  General  Devereux, 
(Wexford,) — he  had  served  in  the  British  army  in  Spain, 
and  with  the  experience  of  war  had  acquired  the  fluent  use 
of  the  Castilian  language — after  the  peace  in  Europe,  he 
pursued  his  profession  to  Colombia,  where  he  had  to  encoun- 
ter hardships  and  endurances  to  which  the  soldier  of  Eu- 
rope is  an  entire  stranger,  besides  the  common  perils  and 
privations  incident  to  war.  I  had  experienced  his  kindness 
at  Caracas,  and  we  were  gratified  at  meeting  in  the  bosom 
of  the  Andes,  as  if  we  had  been  both  from  the  banks  of  the 
Barro.  Military  life  had  not  diminished  his  national  viva- 
city ;  he  was  warm-hearted,  brave  as  gallant,  busy  every  mo- 
ment of  life,  with  as  much  earnestness  as  if  he  had  resolved 
never  to  lose  happiness  for  an  instant — heedless  of  the  past, 
and  reckless  of  the  future ;  at  home  every  where ; — the 
grave  priest  unpursed  his  gravity,  and  the  lively  Sehorita 
laughed  outright  at  his  sprightliness  and  unceasing  gaiety. 
Sometimes  indeed,  the  habits  of  command  in  Spain  were 
visibly  breaking  over  occasion,  but  it  was  the  experienced 
observer  only,  who  could  trace  the  habit  to  the  tone  and 
the  terms  of  expression. 

A  sumptuous  entertainment  awaited  us  here,  where,  by 
the  same  unexplained  means  as  elsewhere,  our  approach  was 
anticipated.  The  population  of  Serinza  were  more  plain 
than  gay  in  their  attire,  which,  though  it  was  warm  as  we 
rode  along,  must  be  cool  in  the  night.  Their  kindness, 
though  not  so  interesting  as  at  Susacon,   was  very  impres- 


406  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

sive ;  they  appeared  like  quakcrs  in  their  plainness  and  sim- 
plicity, but  they  entered  into  the  spirit  of  the  festivity  with 
as  much  glee  as  other  people,  notwithstanding  their  grave 
habits.  Our  visit  certainly  afforded  them  much  gratification  j 
and  the  concourse  of  both  sexes  at  the  house  of  the  com- 
mandant, where  we  lodged,  was  numerous,  and  afforded  a 
most  excellent  specimen  of  the  materials  which  are  to  supply 
future  citizens  to  the  republic.  Though  we  were  not  very 
much  fatigued,  we  thougin  it  due  to  our  hospitable  enter- 
tainers, not  to  keep  it  up  late ;  and  we  contrived,  witli  the 
aid  of  our  friend  Colonel  Lyster,  to  separate,  so  that  we 
went  to  rest  by  ten  o'clock. 

Having  already  spoken  of  the  appearance  of  the  plain,  and 
the  ruins  of  former  extensive  plantations,  it  may  be  proper 
to  notice  its  positioLi.  The  town,  which  consists  of  houses 
of  a  single  story,  resembles  Gritja  in  its  distribution  and 
extent,  the  streets  crossing  at  right  angles,  new  churches, 
many  scattered  cottages  on  the  extremities  and  between  the 
mountains,  which  are  on  the  rear  or  west  side  of  the  town. 
The  impression  all  along  made  by  the  appearance  of  the 
mountains,  on  the  west  side,  from  the  plains,  was  that  while 
the  plains  were  progressively  more  elevated,  the  mountains 
became  progressively  lower  ;  and  this  impression  I  felt  after 
passing  Mendoza,  with  very  little  variation.  The  mountain 
behind  Serin za  appeared  lower  than  the  hills  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Guayra  at  Caracas ;  and  the  town  not  half  a 
mile  from  their  base,  but,  like  the  plains  generally,  it  in- 
clined, from  the  mountain  foot,  gently  towards  the  ground 
watered  by  so  many  abundant  rivulets,  and  made  remarka- 
ble by  its  endless  ruin  of  pita  walls. 

The  continuation  of  the  road  over  a  not  very  lofty  moun- 
tain is  to  the  south  of  the  town,  and  we  left  Serinza  on  the 
28th,  escorted  by  our  friends  of  the  municipality,  and  Colo- 
nel Lyster  and  his  friends,  w'ho  were  on  their  route  to  join 
the  army  under  Urdaneta,  and  parted  with  us  two  miles  out 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  407 

of  town.  The  paramo  of  Serinza  presented,  contrary  to  the 
usual  features  of  paramos,  a  succession  of  beautiful  slopes, 
surrounded  by  plains,  in  pasture,  covered  with  countless 
flocks  of  horned  cattle,  sheep,  horses,  and  mules ;  clumps 
of  foliage,  bearing  the  appearance  of  orchards,  with  culti- 
vated fields  adjacent.  The  forests  seemed  to  have  retired 
to  the  hills,  leaving  the  black  and  chocolate- coloured  loam 
to  tempt  the  ploughman's  courtship.  There  were  some 
fences  here  and  there,  seeming  to  be  intended  to  keep  out 
sheep  or  horses  ;  and,  as  we  passed  some  of  them,  on  our 
route,  we  found  them  composed  of  saplings,  sunk  in  the 
earth,  at  about  six  inches  apart,  held  below  by  bandages  of 
hejuca^  interlaid  in  five  or  six  strands,  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  from  the  ground  ;  another  band,  about  six  or  seven 
feet  high,  and  the  saplings  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet 
higher,  perfectly  firm,  and  more  effective  than  our  best 
Pennsylvania  post  and  rail. 

Seeing  a  plough  at  work  on  one  of  those  beautiful  slopes, 
to  the  left  of  the  road,  which  a  single  ploughman,  with  a 
pair  of  bullocks,  was  preparing  to  redeem  from  nature,  and 
bring  into  productiveness,  I  suffered  my  party  to  go  on,  and 
rode  up  to  the  husbandman,  whose  track  lay  towards  the 
road  ;  he  stopped  his  team,  and  we  entered  into  discourse. 
The  plough  was  my  principal  object,  and  the  manner  of  its 
application.  It  was  very  simple  ;  art  had  done  very  little  for 
it.  It  was  a  single  piece  of  timber,  which  nature  had  bent 
in  such  a  line,  that,  while  about  four  or  four  and  a  half  feet 
lay  along  the  ground,  the  remainder  rose  in  about  an  angle 
of  forty  degrees,  forming  a  single  handle.  On  the  part  which 
lay  along  the  ground,  a  piece  of  hard  wood  had  been  dove- 
tailed into  the  side  of  the  shaft,  with  a  very  small  inclination 
obliquely  forward  beneath,  and  not  longer  than  four  or  five 
inches.  This  piece  of  wood,  about  two  feet  from  the  head 
of  the  beam,  served  as  a  coulter ;  indeed  it  served  all  the 
purposes,  for  there  was  no  soil-board,  nor  any  thing  that  indi- 


408  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

cated  the  turning  up  of  a  sod  or  deep  ploughing.  The  earth 
was  but  indifferently  scratched,  though  not  always  conceal- 
ing the  short  grass.  A  hole  in  the  front  of  the  beam  re- 
ceived two  ropes  of  cow-hide,  whose  other  extremities  were 
wound  round  the  horns  of  the  pair  of  noble  cattle  which 
dragged  along  this  rude  plough  ;  it  differs  in  nothing  but 
being  larger,  and  the  cattle  much  larger,  than  the  plough  of 
Hindusian,  and  that  of  Egypt. 

The pa'iscmo  was  very  inquisitive,  and  heard  my  account 
of  our  ploughs  with  attention,  and,  with  a  pencil,  I  gave- 
him  a  rough  sketch,  and  explained  the  power  gained  by  two 
handles  in  directing  the  line  of  the  furrow  ;  the  uses  of  the 
soil-board,  and  the  turning  over  of  the  sod.  He  expressed 
a  wish,  if  it  were  possible,  to  obtain  an  American  plough.  I 
gave  him  a  side  sketch,  and  a  separate  sketch  of  the  coulter, 
and  the  soil-board.  He  prayed  me  to  recall  my  friends,  and 
to  spend  a  few  days  with  him  ;  he  had  a  very  good  wife,  he 
said,  who  would  love  the  Seiiorita.  I  excused  myself,  and 
thanked  him.  He  was  very  curious  about  America,  and 
having  about  me  two  small  books  I  gave  them  to  him,  and 
he  expressed  great  pleasure  at  the  gift,  and  said  he  wanted 
books  very  much.  This  husbandman,  and  others  whom  I 
had  intercourse  with,  remote  even  from  the  great  cities, 
and  from  the  sea- coast,  very  obviously  displayed  a  con- 
sciousness of  the  change  which  the  revolution  had  made  in 
their  condition.  Men  accustomed  to  liberal  institutions, 
and  accustomed  to  talk  and  think  of  their  rights,  may  be 
supposed  to  enjoy  the  removal  of  some  abuse,  or  the  few 
securities  which  are  established  by  legislative  power,  with 
a  suitable  satisfaction ;  but,  from  what  I  have  seen  in  Co- 
lombia, the  emotion  and  the  gratification  appeared  to  me 
more  intense,  and  it  is  not  unnatural  that  it  should  be  so  ;  I 
have  conversed  with  persons  whose  countenances  flushed 
with  delight,    a  sort  of  emotion    between   exultation    and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  409 

doubt  of  the  reality  of  their  escape  from  the  multiplied  ty- 
ranny of  their  former  condition. 

After  I  had  transcribed  my  journal  for  the  present  publi- 
cation, some  extracts  appeared  in  a  New  York  paper  from 
"  Travels  in  Colombia^  in  the  years  1822  and  1823,  by  G. 
Mollien.  Translated  from  the  French,  London,  1824." — 
The  remarks  of  the  American  editor  were  at  least  indis- 
creet. MoUien's  statements  are  at  once  repugnant  to  just 
ideas,  both  of  the  political  and  moral  state  of  the  Colombian 
republic  ;  I  conceive  it  then  to  be  an  act  of  necessary  pro- 
priety to  notice  the  work,  and  disabuse  society,  so  far  at  least 
as  this  volume  may  circulate. 

I  had  some  intercourse  with  M.  Mollien  at  Bogota ;  I  had 
been  there  before  his  arrival,  and  I  was  there  after  his  depar- 
ture. His  being  an  emissary  of  France,  with  no  good  pur- 
pose, was  obvious  in  his  deportment,  and  the  indecorum 
of  his  ordinary  conversation  was  very  generally  known  ; — 
even  at  the  hospitable  table  of  the  resident  minister  of  the 
United  States,  (Colonel  Todd,)  he  betrayed  an  hostility  so 
extravagant,  not  only  to  the  Colombian  institutions,  but  to 
all  republican  government,  that  was  extremely  painful  to 
the  feelings  of  the  American  minister,  and  which  the  laws  of 
hospitality  only  prevented  him  from  personally  noticing.  It 
was,  however,  noticed  by  an  American,  who  was  of  the  par- 
ty, and  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  highly  gratifying  to  the 
minister,  as  it  was  unexpected,  and  conclusive  upon  the  sub- 
jects oF  MoUien's  asperities,  and  ultra  assumptions.  My 
opportunities  enabled  me  to  know,  that  the  government  of 
Colombia  was  apprised  of  the  nature  of  his  mission ;  he  pre- 
sented no  credentials  as  a  public  agent,  yet  his  conduct  had  an 
air  of  that  kind  of  insolence  which  little  men  display,  "  dressed 
out  in  a  brief  authority."  The  government  considered  him 
as  a  spy,  but  the  members  of  it  treated  him  with  forbearance, 
and  even  an  attention  that  only  concealed  the  derision  in 
which  he  was  held.     When  he  intimated  a  desire  to  visit 

52 


410  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

Quito,  which  the  government  was  apprised  to  be  his  origi- 
nal destination,  he  was  politely  advised  not  to  visit  Quito, 
because,  if  he  should  be  found  there,  he  might  not  find  the 
same  indulgence  that  he  experienced  at  Bogota ;  and  that 
when  he  thought  proper  to  leave  Bogota,  it  must  be  by  the 
route  by  which  he  entered  it.  The  deportment  as  well  as 
the  discourse  ot  this  person  was  ordinary,  his  temper  morose, 
and  his  manners  had  nothing  of  the  ease  and  suavity  of  a 
French  gentleman. 

I  am  induced  to  notice  M.  Mollien  at  this  point  of  my 
journey,  because  Serinza  was  the  farthest  eastern  bound  of  his 
travels  in  Colombia,  though  he  has  pretended  to  give  some 
account  of  Caracas  and  other  parts  of  Venezuela  of  which  he 
was  never  within  five  hundred  miles.  His  account  of  Serinza, 
which  has  been  noticed  and  faithfully  described  in  the  preced- 
ing pages,  is  a  tolerable  specimen  of  his  fidelity,  and  the  exact- 
ness of  his  descriptions.  I  have  not  altered  nor  added  a  word 
to  what  I  had  written  concerning  Serinza,  and  if  I  did  not  know 
that  he  had  been  in  Colombia,  I  should  have  doubted,  upon  the 
evidence  of  his  book,  whether  he  had  ever  seen  Serinza  or 
Santa  Rosa.  I  shall  here  notice  what  he  says  of  Serinza,  and 
afterwards  of  Santa  Rosa,  and  then  pursue  my  own  course, 
and,  if  my  materials  should  not  swell  beyond  the  bulk  of  the 
proposed  volume,  I  shall  examine  M.  Mollien's  book  more  at 
large. 

"  Nothing  is  so  dismal,"  says  M.  Mollien,  "  as  Serinza, 
seen  from  below  ;  its  frowning  brow  hidden  in  clouds,  while 
the  summit  is  rarely  illuminated  by  a  cheerful  sky."  p.  97. 
I  have  already  described  Serinza,  which  is  not  to  be  seen 
from  below  ;  it  stands  but  very  little  elevated  on  the  north- 
west angle  of  a  spacious  plain,  at  the  foot  of  a  very  low  range 
of  verdant  hills,  which  range  east  and  \vest,  not  lofty  enough 
to  be  called  mountains  ;  and  the  town  is  in  fact  not  to  be  seen 
on  approaching  it  from  the  eastward  until  close  upon  it,  from 
the  interposition  of  beautiful  and  lofty  hedge  rows.  If, 
through  misapprehension,  he  has  given  the  name  of  Serinza 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  411 

to  the  paramo  south  of  the  town  two  miles,  he  has  made  a 
mistake  so  far,  though  "  the  brow-hidden  clouds  and  sum- 
mit rarely  illumined  with  a  cheerful  sky,"  would  describe 
every  paramo,  indeed  every  mountain  in  the  world,  for  a  few 
moments  or  hours  in  the  year,  but  is  by  no  means  true  of 
this  paramo,  or  any  other  in  Colombia  ;  which,  though  fre- 
quently clouded,  are  not  always  sunless,  and  we  passed  this 
paramo  on  our  route,  when  the  sun  was  in  its  fulness  and 
glory,  and  the  landscape,  in  the  whole  range  of  vision  many 
miles  around,  presented  some  of  the  richest  prospects  both 
in  beauty  and  productions  to  be  found  in  the  universe. 
This  paramo  is,  in  fact,  a  limb  of  the  great  Cordillera  of 
Chisgay  and  is  usually  called  the  paramo  of  Soga?nozOy  be- 
tween which  beautiful  region,  and  the  plains  and  blooming 
valleys  to  three-fourths  of  the  periphery  ;  and  it  is  the  sepa- 
rating screen  on  the  north-west;  unfortunately  too  for  the  au- 
thority of  the  traveller,  it  is  never  covered  with  snow.  It 
was  on  the  face  of  this  beautiful  paramo,  I  conversed  with 
the  young  husbandman  at  his  plough,  who  was  scratching 
over  a  soil  as  rich  as  the  bottoms  of  Kentucky,  or  the  rice- 
fields  of  Burdwan  in  Bengal ;  fields  which  produced  maize, 
wheat,  and  barley  nowhere  surpassed,  and  two  crops  in  the 
year  ;  yet,  from  what  follows,  it  would  seem  that  the  travel- 
ler was  amidst  the  mountains  of  Norway  or  Nova  Scotia  at 
the  same  season  of  the  year. 

M.  Mollien  continues  :  "  some  springs,  whose  livid  and 
icy  waters  are  not  potable,  escape  from  the  barren  sides  of 
the  mountain,  but  never  produce  on  them  that  fertility  to 
which  they  contribute  on  the  lower  regions ;  muddy  pools, 
choked  up  with  bulrushes  and  other  aquatic  plants,  occupy 
the  bottom  of  the  valley.  The  scream  of  the  white  heron, 
when  the  winds  are  hushed,  is  all  that  breaks  in  upon  its 
silence.  The  earth  produces  nothing  but  a  short  kind  of 
grass,  eagerly  sought  after  by  animals."  Now,  whether  this 
be  intended  for  the  mountain  or  the  plain  is  scarcely  ascer- 


4*12  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

taiiKible;  but  the  temper  in  which  these  descriptive  traits  are 
given  must  be  manilest.  He  could  not  but  see  the  immense 
ruin  which  covered  many  thousand  acres  on  the  plain  ;  that 
they  were  marked  by  the  desolation  of"  war  :  that  Serinza 
had  been  particularly  obnoxious  to  the  Spaniards  he  might 
have  known,  and  it  may  have  given  to  his  vision  a  jaundiced 
influence.  When  Bolivar  had,  altera  march  oi' seventy- two 
days  from  Mantecal,  crossed  the  snow^  sides  of  Chisga^  he 
reached  Serinza  with  his  troops  almost  naked,  without  shoes, 
and  in  ill  health  ;  they  had  lost  the  greater  part  of  their  horses, 
and  lived  for  some  part  ol  the  way  upon  some  of  them.  He 
and  his  troops  were  received  at  Serinza  with  acclamations 
and  affection  ;  the  troops  were  lodged,  fed,  clothed,  and  shod, 
and  the  horses  they  had  lost  replaced  ;  those  that  were  jaded, 
but  survived,  were  taken  care  ol',  and  substitutes  provided. 
A  people  capable  of  such  magnanimity  must  be  virtuous 
and  opulent ;  but  the  generosity  they  displayed  was  not  con- 
sistent with  the  wretchedness  w'hich  M.  MoUien  describes. 
The  Spaniards  had  desolated  the  plantations,  whose  walls 
were  the  testimonials  of  a  former  vast  cultivation  as  of  pre- 
sent ruin,  and  whose  rivulets,  wandering  out  of  their  former 
well-constructed  channels,  might  have  shewn  that,  though 
desolation  was  visible,  it  was  not  the  sterility  of  nature,  and 
that  no  such  walls,  or  artificial  channels  for  irrigation,  would 
have  been  erected  on  a  sterile  soil.  Whether  his  temper  of 
mind  -closed  his  eyes  and  his  understanding,  is  not  material ; 
those  streams  of  crystal  water,  which  flow  in  abundance 
through  very  full  channels,  I  can  verify  had  nothing  livid  in 
them  ;  and  if,  in  a  temperate  region,  producing  coffee,  the  icy 
coldness  of  the  water  be  a  misfortune  or  a  reproach,  the  town 
of  Serinza  is  indeed  unfortunate,  and  reproachable  for  the 
coldness  as  w'ell  as  for  the  w^holesome  purity  and  crystal  clear- 
ness of  these  streams,  which  the  Spaniards  sent  vagabojidizing 
over  the  plain.  He  finds  a  bottom  and  a  valley  at  Serinza. 
In  relation  to  the  mountains  all  round,  it  may  be  called  a 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  413 

valley,  but  it  is  rather  a  spacious  plain ;  and  this  plain  is  its 
only  bottom.  The  beautiful  white  heron  is  the  inhabitant 
of  all  the  savannas  or  plains  on  which  there  are  pure  streams, 
and  on  the  sublime  plain  of  Bogota  is  considered,  by  persons 
who  take  pleasure  in  the  caprices  of  nature,  as  among  its 
most  beautiful  ornaments.  It  is  not  a  noisy  bird  ;  though 
its  screams  are  not  perfect  melgdies,  yet  they  are  not  such 
as  to  grate  the  ears  or  affect  the  nerves,  unless  perhaps  those 
of  the  hypochondriacal — and  I  confess  that  the  suUenness 
and  discontent  which  clouded  the  visage  of  this  gentleman, 
even  when  every  one  else  was  convivial,  led  me  to  devise  an 
excuse  for  his  moroseness  in  this  disease.  The  heron  is  a  beau- 
tiful bird,  of  exquisitely  fair  plumage  ;  our  sergeant,  who  had 
a  shot  at  every  thing,  killed  one  to  procure  feathers  for  his 
grenadier  cap  ;  the  body,  as  it  appears  standing,  or  in  flight, 
looks  as  large  as  a  barn-door  fowl ;  when  in  the  hand,  the 
plumage  is  so  delicate,  downy,  and  light,  that  the  body  is 
not  as  heavy  as  that  of  a  pullet. 

If  the  earth  now  produces  nothing  within  the  pita  ruins 
which  were  before  the  Spanish  troops  had  desolated  them, 
the  scenes  of  rich  production  and  abundance,  their  former 
fertility  is  the  best  answer  to  him  who  discovers  sterility  in 
a  ruin  produced  by  the  troops  of  the  adored  Ferdinand,  not 
quite  two  years  before. 

He  subjects  the  town  to  the  reproach  which,  if  it  were 
real,  belongs  to  the  cloudy  paramo  above,  which  he  says,  "  si 
ponehravo^^''  (when  out  of  humour)  "  threatens  the  traveller  :" 
by  this  personification  of  the  clouds  or  mountains  we  under- 
stand they  come  on  purpose  to  threaten  him  ;  in  the  same 
way  as  at  Santa  Rosa,  where  we  shall  find  him  charging  the 
unconscious  people  of  conspiring  against  him,  while  they  were 
asleep,  and  making  the  heavy  rains  a  party  in  the  conspiracy; 
though  the  poor  people  probably  never  heard,  even  to  this  day, 
of  such  a  person  as  M.  MoUien,  who  describes  "  the  winds 
loaded  with  vapour,  (which  must  of  course  be  unlike  the 


414  VISIT  TO  COLOMmA. 

winds  in  any  other  mountains;)  tliick  darkness  covtrin^^  the 
earth,  (which  haj)pcns  no  \\  here  else;)  and  eonceahng  every 
trace  of  road."  In  truth,  I  have  often  found  it  difiicull  to 
discover  a  trace  of  a  road  at  noon  day.  But  these  repubhcan 
clouds  arc  no  rcsj)ecters  of  persons  ;  and  as  this  poor  t^entle- 
man  very  often  lost  himself  dreaming  of  his  own  consequence, 
to  the  amusement  of  many  who  marked  him,  it  is  not  sur- 
prising he  should  take  umbrage  at  the  clouds  of  Serinza.  It 
is  scarcely  necessary  to  remark  tiiat  in  another  place  he  con- 
tradicts diis  asperity  of  the  clouds ;  for  he  says,  in  another 
page,  "  wh(  n  1  traversed  Serinza,  the  temperature,  though 
cold,  was  bearable,  but  the  air  was  excessively  dry :''''  this  is 
literally  blowing  hot  and  cold,  wet  and  dry,  out  of  the  same 
mouth.  His  account  of  the  device  of  a  host  at  the  Vada  dc 
Basto,  where  he  passed  a  night,  deserves  notice  : — "  The 
prejudice  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Cordillera  against  fire,  which 
they  conceive  to  be  unwholesome,  prevents  them  from  light- 
ing any;  I  was  benumbed,  although  my  birth  was  the  least 
exposed  to  the  outward  air,  and  was  wrapped  up  in  thick 
woollen  cloaks,  &c.  The  cold,  however,  did  not  last  all 
night,  for  my  host  had  conceived  the  singular  idea  of  bringing 
up  a  great  number  of  cats,  which  were  trained  to  place 
themselves  upon  the  feet  of  travellers ;  ,1  had  two  of  theniy 
whose  thick  furs  kept  me  very  warm.'^''  p.  99.  This  story 
merits  record  in  the  history  of  the  feline  species,  and  may 
have  a  place  in  the  same  chapter  with  the  fight  of  the  Kil- 
kenny cats — equally  authentic. 

I  shall  leave  M.  Mollien  till  we  reach  the  next  stage,  where 
we  shall  find  the  dignity  of  the  secret  agent  of  the  most 
Christian  and  Catholic  kings,  exposed  to  conspiring  rains, 
alcaldes,  judges,  and  curates,  who  went  to  sleep  in  order  to 
prepare  a  ducking  for  him  at  midnight. 


415 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Leave  Seriiiza — Santa  Itosa — Striking^  resemblance  of  Washington  city  and  'the 
Potomac — the  usual  reception — Dr.  Origen — Catholic  clergy  and  Liberty — 
effects  of  clerical  fanaticism — the  beauty  of  the  youth — Entertainments — Pa- 
triotic sentiments — depart  for  Paypa — liberal  priests— Library  at  Paypa — M. 
MoUien's  account  of  a  conspiracy — Dos  Diablos  Azulos — Remarks. 

The  commandant  of  Serinza  was  a  colonel  of  militia,  a 
plain  country  farmer  of  about  six  feet  high,  and  a  well- filled 
figure,  with  an  open  countenance,  and  a  cheerfulness  which  in- 
dicated true  coijtentedness,  and  a  right  estimation  of  freedom : 
he  made  no  pretensions,  but  understood  his  duties.  The 
people  in  this  district,  as  I  have  observed  in  other  regions 
where  the  temperature  is  a  medium  between  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold,  are  taller  than  in  the  warm  vallics,  or  those  of 
the  cooler  paramos.  Before  our  departure,  the  commandant 
had  repeatedly  urged  us  to  remain  with  them  some  time,  and 
the  females  of  the  family  and  town  were  still  more  pressing, 
from  a  desire  to  be  acquainted  with  my  daughter.  We  were, 
however,  constant  to  our  purpose.  There  were  many  intel- 
ligent citizens  in  this  place,  but  it  was  impossible  to  enter 
very  connectedly  into  discourse  from  the  shortness  of  the 
time,  and  the  number  of  visitors.  We  understood,  however, 
in  a  sort  of  effort  to  vindicate  themselves  as  to  the  ruins  over 
which  we  passed,  that  it  was  not  their  neglect  which  caused 
them;  the  Spaniards  had  found  the  bounties  of  nature  too 
widely  spread  over  the  valleys  and  plains  all  around,  to  be 
within  the  compass  of  their  power  to  destroy ;  and  they 
had  devastated  Serinza  in  vengeance  and  as  an  example  of 
what  they  would  do  every  where  if  it  was  in  their  power ; 
the  neighbouring  rich  country  had  therefore  escaped  ravage 
and  desolation,  so  that  if  we  should  only  remain  a  few  days, 


416  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

we  should  find  a  numerous  society  solicitous  to  show  their 
good  wishes  towards  us  from  the  surrounding^  plantations. 
Our  refusals  were  expressed  with  very  sincere  regrets,  as  in 
truth  our  inclinations  were  there,  as  in  many  other  places,  to 
remain  some  time.  The  commandant,  however,  determined 
not  to  part  from  us  so  soon;  and,  as  we  would  not  stay,  he 
would  go  with  us ;  and,  in  order  to  show  how  kind  he  could 
be,  he  intimated,  that,  after  so  long  a  journey,  our  riding 
mules  would  be  better  for  a  relief;  he  therefore  provided  for 
us  riding  and  baggage  horses,  so  that  our  mules  travelling 
without  burden  were  well  refreshed.  The  horses  generally 
throughout  the  route  are  of  a  low  stature,  usually  twelve, 
seldom  fourteen  hands  high  ;  at  Serinza  they  were  something 
above  the  height  that  is  common,  longer  limbs  and  neck, 
but  very  full  breast  and  haunches.  Those  animals  appear  to 
be  affected,  as  to  stature,  by  the  characteristic  features  of  the 
country.  Where  the  steeps  are  frequent  and  extreme,  the 
declivities  rough  and  wild,  the  horses  appear  to  be  short 
limbed  and  more  muscular;  and  where  the  country  is  more 
level,  or  not  steep  and  rugged,  and  the  temperature  mild,  the 
horses  appear  to  be  longer  bodied  and  longer  limbed ;  though 
what  we  should  call  a  raw-boned  horse  is  an  object  not  to  be 
seen,  forage  every  where  grows  so  rapid  and  luxuriant. 

We  gradually  gained  the  beautiful  sides  of  the  paramo, 
and  found  ourselves  at  the  upper  range  of  the  road,  almost 
unconscious  that  we  were  ascending,  until  winding  beneath 
a  sublime  forest  we  found  that  the  vast  plains,  pastures,  plan- 
tation houses,  sugar  fields,  and  a  wide  spread  culture  mixed 
with  forest  clumps  and  silvery  rivulets,  lay  open  to  an  ex- 
tent of  which  the  eye  could  make  no  measure  or  bound, 
but  the  faint  blue  cloudy  line,  immensely  distant,  in  the 
south-east,  and  south,  and  south-west.  We  were  descend- 
ing with  this  rich  region  spread  before  us,  when,  almost  at 
our  feet  to  appearance,  but  really  four  miles  distant,  a  town 
lay  before  us  of  a  very  neat  aspect,  and  by  its  position  pro- 
ducing such  an  emotion  as  is  felt  on  revisiting,  after  a  long 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  417 

absence,  a  place  that  had  been  before  familiar  and  agreeable. 
I  was  not  at  first  conscious  of  this  involuntary  analogy ;  the 
town  stood  on  the  easy  slope  and  bottom  of  the  valley  on  its 
north-west  side,  and  the  plain  extended  to  the  south  and 
south-east,  skirted  in  the  distance  by  a  range  of  mountains, 
which  seemed  to  be  the  rim  of  the  bason  of  which  the  valley 
or  plain  below  was  the  bottom  ;  the  sides  all  round  sloping 
inward  to  that  bottom.  Across  the  plain  from  the  west,  and 
pursuing  its  course  to  the  south-east,  a  btautiful  river  revealed 
its  current  by  the  tremulous  silvery  light  reflected  from  the 
sun.  This  feature  of  the  landscape  soon  identified  the  resem- 
blance of  which  I  was  not  before  conscious ;  but  it  was  a 
very  striking  likeness  of  the  position  and  valley  of  the  city 
of  Washington,  as  seen  from  the  brow  of  the  Capitol  Hill. 
The  river,  however,  was  not  so  spacious  as  the  Potomac, 
and  the  town,  which  was  that  of  Santa  Rosa,  was  more  com- 
pact :  the  neatness  of  the  white-washed  houses,  the  clean  tiled 
roofs,  and  the  rectangular  intersection  of  the  streets  on  a  closer 
approach,  broke  up  the  similarity,  though  the  view  in  the 
distance  remained  still  striking.  The  brightness  of  the  sun 
gave  the  appearance  of  the  month  of  May  at  Washington. 

The  curates  and  corporation  here  came  out  as  usual  to  re- 
ceive us — and  I  must  here  observe,  in  order  that  it  should 
not  be  attributed  to  an  improper  vanity,  that  I  am  so  parti- 
cular in  noticing  these  incidents,  because  it  is  at  once  an  act 
of  justice  to  those  good  people,  and  goes  to  show  manners 
and  hospitable  dispositions,  better  than  any  general  terms 
could  do.  Several  of  the  secular  clergy  came  out  o..  this 
occasion,  and  an  amicable  and  good-humoured  conten- 
tion arose  among  them,  who  should  do  us  the  most  honour 
— many  more  joined  us  in  the  suburb,  but  they  led  us  into 
the  Plaza  Mayor,  and  halted,  as  I  understood  it,  at  the  re- 
sidence of  Dr.  Origen,  a  secular  clergyman  of  very  prepos- 
sessing appearance  and  manners,  and,  what  struck  me — not 
with  surprise,  but  as  a  new  occurrence,  he  wore  at  his 

5^ 


4i8  VISIT    TO     COLOMBIA. 

breast  the  ribbon  and  medal  of  the  order  of  Libertadors, 
an  institution,  in  all  respects,  resembling  our  order  of  Cin- 
ciJinatus.    I  never  before  could  reconcile  myself  to  such  de- 
corations, which,   ever  since  I  had  the  exercise  of  a  free 
mind,  I  have  looked  upon  only  as  marks  set  upon  man,  to 
shovi^  by  what  baubles  they  may  be  deluded  or  bought.    Up- 
on  analysing  my  feelings  on  this  occasion,  I  found  that,  by 
a  rapid   association  of   ideas,  I  had  identified  the  catholic 
priest  and  the  apostle  of  liberty,  and  excused  the  bauble  for 
mitigating  the  contradictions.     Not  that  I  believe  the  ca- 
tholic priests  to  be  more  hostile  to  human  freedom  than  any 
other.     Priests  of  all  religions,  Christians,  Moslems,  Bra- 
mins,  or  Jews,  seek  to  govern  mankind  for  themselvesy  and 
are  prone  to  adhere  to  any  form  of  power,  which  promises 
them    their  peculiar  domination.     Where  they  are  other- 
wise, they  are  no  more  than  exceptions  to  a  general  rule.     I 
have  known  many  catholic  priests,  and  some  in   Colombia, 
besides  the  worthy  man  at  Santa  Rosa,  who  are  ardent  lovers 
of  human  rights.     The  overthrow  of  the  Cortes,  in  Spain, 
was  the  work  of  the  monks ;   they  were  the   instruments 
of  Monteverde,  after  the  earthquake  of  1812,  and  had  not 
the  fear  of  France  and  the  same  cry  of  atheism  been  raised 
in  Venezuela,  on  that  occasion,  which  was  raised  in  Spain  in 
1808,  the  career  of  the  revolution,  if  not  jeopardized,  might 
have  been  at  least  more  tardy  in  its  process.     The  men  of 
enlarged  minds,   in  Colombia,   saw  that   Spain  must  have 
been  subjected  by  the  legions  of  Napoleon,   had  not  the 
monks  produced  that  fanatical  rage,  which  undertook  to  ex- 
tirpate men  under  colour  of  vindicating  the  Almighty  ! — 
and  when  the  same  fanaticism  was  adopted,  and  upon  instruc- 
tions to  that  effect  from  Europe,  the  friends  of  American  li- 
berty saw  the  necessity  of  passivity,  as  by  means  of  this  delu- 
sion independence  would  be  better  assured ;  since,  if  France 
should  gain  the  title,  the  difficulties  of  resistance  would  be 
greater   than  to   Spain.     These  ideas  do  not  accord   with 
those  of  many,  who  would  have  it  believed  that  there  was  a 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  419 

sort  of  national  dislike  in  South  America  to  the  French,  and 
who  would  have  it  believed  the  South  Americans  were  dri- 
ven by  necessity  to  independence.  In  truth,  no  nation  of 
Europe  was  so  much  preferred  in  South  America,  as  the 
French  ;  the  French  language  had  been  for  three  fourths  of  a 
century  carefully  cultivated  ;  the  French  writings,  introduced 
by  stealth,  the  favourite  study  ;  and  at  this  day  few  men  of 
a  good  education  are  to  be  found  in  Spanish  America,  who 
are  unacquainted  with  that  language.  The  patriotic  leaders 
did  not  wish  that  Spain  should  be  subjected  to  France,  not 
from  love  of  Spain  nor  hatred  to  France,  but  because  independ- 
ence was  to  be  secured  by  the  failure  of  France.  The  eccle- 
siastics, in  this  way,  unconsciously  contributed  to  the  success 
of  the  revolution.  I  have  had  the  satisfaction  of  much  inter- 
course with  clerical  men  in  Colombia,  whose  political  princi- 
ples were  the  cause  of  our  acquaintance — and  whose  prin- 
ciples in  every  relation,  I  found  such  as  would  do  honour 
to  virtue  and  liberty  in  any  country. 

Dr.  Origen  lost  nothing  of  the  impression  made  on  me  by 
his  first  appearance,  on  the  interchange  of  sentiments ;  he  was 
cheerful,  frank,  and  persuasive,  and  his  political  opinions  I 
thought  (perhaps  because  they  exactly  squared  with  my  own) 
the  best  in  the  world  ;  he  was  a  perfect  master  of  modern  as 
well  as  ancient  history,  and  talked  with  equal  mastery  of  the 
wars  of  Peloponnesus,  and  the  thirty  years  war,  the  Dutch, 
French,  and  North  American  revolutions,  the  constitution 
of  England  and  that  of  Sparta,  and  those  of  the  United  States ; 
he  knew  even  the  more  recent  history  of  the  United  States, 
and  could  name  our  triumphs  and  our  disasters.  This  in  the 
bosom  of  the  Andes  was  a  matter  of  surprize,  and  I  regret- 
ted when  the  good-nature  of  the  company  prevented  a  more 
protracted  intercourse  ;  as  the  civil  and  military  appeared  to 
contend  with  the  ecclesiastics  who  should  be  most  kind,  it  was 
necessary  to  render  equal  respect  to  their  kind  dispositions.  I 
know  not  whether  it  was  a  stated  day  of  festivity,  but  not  only 
the  house  but  the  plaza  was  covered  with  people  of  every  de- 


4S0  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

scription ;  it  seemed  to  be  a  general  holiday,  and  every  body 
uncommonly  well  clad,  and  neat  in  their  style  oi"  attire.  The 
complexion  of  the  people  generally  was  here  more  than  com- 
monly [i^ir,  and  the  females  rosy,  much  fairer  generally  than 
at  Caracas,  of  whom  we  had  a  concourse  to  pay  their  res- 
pects to  the  sefiorita  blanca  del  America  Norte.  However 
complimentary  the  title  of  fair  American^  the  young  people 
of  Santa  Rosa  were  so  numerously  of  the  same  complexion, 
that  it  would  not  be  overstraining  probabilities,  to  presume 
that  the  town  derived  its  sanctification  from  the  roses  on  their 
cheeks^  which  rival  those  on  the  luxuriant  hedges  around  the 
town  ;  many  among  them  would  have  appeared  lovely  among 
the  nymphs  on  the  banks  of  the  Kuban,  the  fairest  daugh- 
ters of  Erin,  or  the  blue-eyed  damsels  of  Delecarlia. 

A  large  company  of  both  sexes  sat  down  to  a  dejeune  de  la 
fonrchette,  with  whose  ease,  gaiety,  and  contentedness,  I  felt 
inexpressible  satisfaction.  The  table  service  here  was  as 
complete  as  in  one  of  our  own  cities  :  china,  glass,  knives, 
and  silver  forks,  and  plate  of  different  kinds.  The  fruit 
were  luxuriant,  and  the  sweetmeats,  in  which,  from  Caracas 
to  Bogota,  they  excel ;  chocolate  and  coffee  in  the  greatest 
perfection,  and  of  which  we  partook  gratefully.  We  return- 
ed to  the  saloon,  and  answered  to  such  inquiries  as  they 
made  concerning  the  United  States,  Washington,  and  Frank- 
lin. I  afforded  the  gentlemen  whom  I  sat  with  an  unex- 
pected gratification,  when  they  inquired  about  Franklin,  by 
informing  them  that  Lieutenant  Bache,  the  youth  who  was 
conversing  with  a  group  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  saloon, 
was  a  direct  descendant  of  Dr.  Franklin,  and,  more  than  that, 
perhaps  the  best  picture  of  the  doctor,  at  the  same  age,  in 
form  and  features,  that  could  be  found.  They  were  parti- 
cularly pleased,  too,  wlien  I  told  them  of  the  resemblance 
wiiich  the  valley  of  Santa  Rosa  bore  to  that  of  Washington 
City  in  the  first  bloom  of  spring.  All  the  clergymen  present 
were  gay  and  familiar.     Finding  the  matrons  had  engrossed 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  421 

me  for  some  time,  they  contrived  to  carry  me  off,  and  to 
make  such  inquiries  as  suggested  themselves,  principally  on 
political  and  social  subjects.  I  gave  them  all  I  had  of  politics 
and  opinions  on  what  they  touched,  and  congratulated  them 
on  the  nearly  closed  war  and  their  triumphs.  They  were 
conscious  that  much  was  yet  to  be  done  to  give  society  its 
completion,  and  one  of  them,  when  it  was  observed  that 
great  sacrifices  were  made,  replied,  that  it  was  worth  more 
than  it  cost ;  the  loss  of  lives  and  sufferings  of  Aimilies  (I 
think  it  was  Dr.  Origen  who  said  it)  were  great,  for  "  those 
who  have  died  in  the  cause  have  only  passed  away  a  few  years 
before  us,  but  liberty  and  independence  will  remain  to  fu- 
ture ages  and  endless  generations."  Our  time  was  so  con- 
stantly occupied  by  the  kindness  and  curiosity  of  this  hospi- 
table people,  that  we  had  no  opportunity  to  see  more  of  the 
town  than  we  had  seen  on  our  entrance,  and  from  the  veran- 
dah of  the  house,  w  hich  overlooked  the  great  square,  and 
what  we  saw  on  our  departure. 

Our  intention,  on  reaching  Santa  Rosa,  was  to  take  a 
plain  breakfast  of  chocolate  and  fruit,  spend  an  hour  or  two 
in  seeing  the  town  and  some  of  its  manufactures,  and  then 
move  forward  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  before  dinner.  But 
we  had  been  too  much  engrossed  and  pleased  to  be  conscious 
of  the  time,  and  were  about  preparing  to  depart,  when  we 
were  informed  that  dinner  was  already  on  the  table,  and  to 
which  we  were  immediately  conducted.  The  description  of 
feasts  and  entertainments  so  frequently,  has  an  air  of  epicu- 
rism in  it ;  but  none  of  us  were  of  that  cast ;  our  powers  of 
abstinence  and  our  taste  for  rough  fare  had  been  already  well 
tested ;  we  had  travelled  whole  days  without  halting  for 
food,  and  our  fricasees,  with  now  and  then  a  turkey  pout, 
a  quarter  of  kid,  with  fruit,  were  our  greatest  luxuries;  in- 
deed, our  rough  fare  was  to  us  a  constant  source  of  merri- 
ment. But,  as  it  is  in  the  domestic  and  social  relations  the 
state  of  society  and  manners  is  best  seen,  as  well  as  the  cha- 


4<SS  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

racteristics  of  the  climate  and  civilized  state,  it  would  be  to 
omit  what  is  essential,  if  incidents  such  as  these  Avere  not  noti- 
ced, even  though  it  may  seem  like  vanity  to  describe  the  fa- 
vours heaped  upon  us.  The  dinner  had  been  in  silent  prepara- 
tion while  we  were  in  conversation,  and  we  found  it  not  only 
excellent,  but  sumptuous  ;  the  snowy  Ccyjliflovver  and  the  ar- 
tichoke superior  to  any  I  had  seen  before,  besides  the  rich 
variety  of  edible  roots  and  plants,  of  which  the  nanies  were 
not  known  to  me  ;  the  coos  lettuce  ;  eschallots,  the  want  of 
which,  in  our  American  cookery,  is  so  remarkable ;  game 
of  diflerent  kind,  pheasant,  partridge,  and  quail — but  we  had 
here,  in  the  midst  of  the  Andes,  the  vermicelli  soups  of 
France  and  Italy,  and  the  tasteless  oil  of  Florence,  at  what 
cost  may  be  imagined,  seeing  that  the  ocean  was  far  distant, 
and  these  exotics  found  their  way  amidst  the  Andes  on  the 
backs  of  mules.  The  viands  altogether,  and  the  wines, 
could  not  be  found  superior  or  more  abundant  any  where. 
The  wines  were  not  inoperative,  for  we  had  brindis  on 
every  side,  in  which  La  Republica  del  Norte  was  not  indif- 
ferently drank.  A  young,  married  lady,  who  was  beautiful 
and  accomplished,  gave  me  much  pleasure  by  giving  as  her 
sentiment — "  Perpetual  friendship  between  the  republican 
families  of  the  New  World."  I  found  she  had  been  edu- 
cated in  the  United  States,  and  had  returned  about  eight 
months  before  her  marriage.  Further  detail  would  be 
superfluous. 

These  good  people  would  have  delayed  us  longer — when 
we  wished  to  go  at  noon,  it  was  too  soon  or  too  warm — 
it  was  now  too  late — and,  moreover,  that  a  bull  fight  would 
take  place  at  three  o'clock,  for  which  purpose  the  angles  of 
the  plaza  were  already  enclosed  with  a  stockade.  The  last 
persuasive  was  not  such  as  would  be  likely  to  prevail,  though 
courtesy  would  not  permit  us  to  say  so, — and  we  expressed 
our  thanks  far  from  what  was  equal  to  our  feelings — and  we 
departed :  our  worthy  commandant  of  Serinza  still  deter- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  423 

mined  to  keep  us  company,  and  we  were  several  miles  be- 
yond Santa  Rosa  before  he  took  leave,  with  the  kindest  emo- 
tions of  a  generous,  social  heart. 

It  was  half  past  two  when  we  left  Santa  Rosa.     Dr.  Origen 
had  introduced  me,  among  others,  to  a  Franciscan  friar,  Fra. 
Joachim  Garcia^  who  also  accompanied  us  on  our  route  for 
several  successive  days.     As  we  approached  Paypa,  Padre 
Hincon^  the  respectable  curate  of  that  village,  with  several  of 
his  parishioners,  met  us  about  four  miles  from  the  place,  and 
conducted  us  to  his  dwelling,  where  a  handsome  entertain- 
ment awaited  our  arrival.     This  venerable  curate  is  much 
advanced  in  years,  celebrated  for  his  hospitality  and  liberal 
principles,   and   is  particularly  friendly  to  Americans  ;  his 
attentions  to  us  correspond  with  his  reputation.     I  had  let- 
ters to  him,  which  I  did  not  produce  till  he  was  about  to 
retire :  he  asked  why  I  had  not  given  them  to  him  before  ; 
and  he  was  much  amused  and  pleased  by  the  reason  I  as- 
signed— that  I  wished  to  be  his  guest  upon  his  own  good 
will,  rather  than  upon  the  recommendation  of  any  third  per- 
son ;   and  he  laughed  heartily,  and  thanked  me,  and  shook 
me  by  the  hand  for  the  compliment.     It  was  nine  o'clock 
when  he  finally  retired,  and,  as  we  moved  at  the  dawn  of 
morning,  we  saw  him  no  more,  leaving  a  billet  of  thanks, 
with  our  cards  of  names.     The  spacious  hall  in  which  we  had 
sat,  was  his  parlour,  library,  and  refectory ;   and  his  books, 
though  generally  of  dogmatical  theology,  had  among  them 
some  few  works  of  science  and  polite  literature,  among  them 
Totze's  History  of  Europe,  the  works  of  La  Vega,  and  other 
Spanish  writers.     He  spoke  with  great  zeal  of  the  United 
States,  and  how  much  mankind  was  indebted  to  their  revo- 
lution ;   he  thought  that  the  population  of  Colombia  would 
augment  even  more  rapidly  than  the  United  States;  and  that 
many  thousands  of  the  former  population,  supposed  to  be 
killed,  were  now  settled  in  remote  valleys,  from  which  they 
would  not  return ;  but,  added  he,  population  will  soon  catch 


^ 


^M  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

them.  Like  others  whom  I  comersed  with, he  was  surprised 
to  learn  that  our  clergymen  of  all  sects  wore  no  costume  in 
society.  This  impression  is  no  more  than  a  proof  of  the  in- 
fluence of  habit,  which  confounds  what  is  partially  usual  with 
what  is  universally  rij^^ht. 

I  have  stated  our  reception  at  Santa  Rosa,  and  described 
the  country,  town,  and  people,  as  I  saw  them  ;  I  might  have 
said  much  more  of  the  town,  which  Palacio  Faxar  describes 
as  "  the  most  beautiful  town  in  a  beautiful  province  ;"  and  I 
might,  while  the  topics  were  fresh,  have  particularised  what 
I  had  been  informed  of  as  to  the  productions  ol  agriculture, 
and  of  manufactures,  carried  on  there,  in  cotton,  wool, 
leather,  hats,  pottery,  and  other  things.  The  account  given 
of  Serinza,  by  M.  Mollien,  induces  me  to  notice  his  extra- 
vagant misrepresentations ;  what  I  have  said  of  Santa  Rosa 
above,  was  written  before  I  saw  M.  Mollien's  book  ;  and  I 
cannot  pass  over  what  he  has  said  of  this  beautiful  town  with- 
out offering  some  remarks  upon  the  preposterous  things  he 
has  uttered,  though  in  such  a  way  as  to  expose  his  own  ab- 
surdity :  for  example,  he  says — 

»  "  It  was  night  when  I  entered  Santa  Rosa :  hospitality 
is  every  where  exercised  with  so  much  generosity^  that  I 
thought,  notwithstanding  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  I  should 
find  no  difficulty  in  getting  a  lodging ;  but  I  was  deceived ; 
every  door  was  closed  against  me:  I  knocked  at  the  doors  of 
the  alcaldes  and  the  civil  judge,  but  they  refused  opening 
them,  on  the  pretext  that  their  masters  were  absent :  the 
curate,  to  whom  I  applied  as  a  last  resource,  did  not  manifest 
more  charity  than  his  neighbours.  It  was  late,  my  clothes 
were  wet  through,  I  had  not  eaten  all  day,  and  found  myself 
obliged  to  lie  in  the  street ;  I  was,  indeed,  in  much  distress  ; 
all  were  deaf  ^o  my  prayers  ;  one  only,  and  that  for  the  second 
time  a  woman,  took  compassion  on  me,  and  offered  me  half 
her  cabin;  I  joyfully  shared  it;  and  although  it  was  difficult 
to  sleep  among  the  pots  of  chicha  and  heaps  of  onions  with 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  425 

which  it  was  stored,  I  passed  a  delicious  night  in  comparison 
with  that  reserved  for  me  by  the  inhospitality  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Santa  Rosa,  by  listening  to  the  rain  which  fell  in 
torrents." 

This  account  of  his  adventures  in  Santa  Rosa  is  so  mar- 
vellous, that  it  is  only  by  considering  him  as  accompanied 
by  el  Diablo  Consejo^  or  that  sort  of  miraculous  power  which 
le  Diable  Boiteux  exercised,  when  he  made  stonewalls 
transparent,  and  not  only  heard  the  conversation,  but  pene- 
trated the  thoughts  and  the  dreams  of  those  whom  he  saw 
from  the  house-tops.  Like  Jsmodeus,  he  enters  the  town  at 
midnight,  and,  though,  every  where  else  and  to  every  body 
else,  the  people  are  hospitable  and  generous — here  they  had 
gone  to  sleep,  out  of  sheer  antipathy  to  him  ;  even  the  ser- 
vants are,  according  to  him,  their  masters  out  of  town, 
which,  though  not  unusual,  this  Asmodeus  Mollien  infers 
was  an  incident  of  the  conspiration — for  they  were  all  alike — 
the  masters  who  did  not  hear,  and  the  servants  who  did  hear, 
deaf  to  his  prayers  ;  and  even  the  curate  was  as  great  a  con- 
spirator as  the  rest ;  by  all  of  whom  he  was  obliged  to  sleep  in 
the  street — though  it  appears  he  did  not  sleep  in  the  street — 
for  he  passed  a  delicious  night  in  comparison  with  that  re- 
served for  him  by  the  inhabitants  of  Santa  Rosa.  Now,  to 
make  this  Asmodean  story  consistent,  he  must  have  apprised 
the  folks  of  his  intended  arrival  before  the  people  went  to 
bed,  or  to  the  country ;  and  the  curate  or  the  magistrates 
must,  besides  their  ordinary  functions,  have  had  the  power 
of  reserving  torrents  of  rain  to  be  poured  out  on  him: — he 
continues — 

'*  The  name  of  Santa  Rosa  sounds  well  to  the  ear,  and 
from  the  regularity  of  the  houses  and  streets,  the  town,  in 
some  degree,  answers  the  pleasing  ideas  to  which  the  appel- 
lation gives  rise.  But  the  temperature  was  very  cold  ;  and, 
as  the  environs  produce  nothing  but  corn,  potatoes-,  and  onions, 
the  population  would  not   be  very  rich,  had  it  not,  as  a  re- 

54 


426  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

source,  several  manufactures  of  -woollen  hats  and  cotton  stuffs, 
much  in  request  among  their  neighbours  in  Socorro.  Goi- 
tres are  very  common  here,"  p.  94,  95.   Enghsh  translation. 

If  any  thing  could  form  an  apology  for  absurdity  uttered 
with  so  much  deliberation,  it  would  be  found  only  in  men- 
tal or  bodily  disease  ;  for  romance,  absurdity  is  allowable 
machinery  ;  but  here  are  genii,  by  the  Spaniards  called  Los 
Diablos  Azulos,  in  our  language  the  Blue  Devils,  whose  in- 
fluence, indeed,  appeared  in  the  visage  and  deportment  of 
M.  Mollien,  all  the  time  I  knew  him  at  Bogota  ;  under  this 
gloomy  influence  alone  could  his  wayward  imagination  con- 
vert a  hospitable  people  into  conspirators  against  him,  whom 
they  had  never  heard  of — and  made  the  rains  of  heaven  a 
party  in  reserve  to  the  conspiracy,  to  drive  liim  into  the 
arms  of  a  poor  C/iicha  wofuan :  it  was  midnight  when  he 
entered — he  sees  nobody  but  the  Chicha  woman,  he  passes 
a  delicious  night  in  listening  to  the  torrents  of  rain  ;  and 
departs  before  day — yet  he  not  only  reprobates  the  magis- 
tracy and  the  curate — but  he  discovers  the  poverty  of  the 
place — nay,  that  "  Goitres  are  very  common." 

Malevolence  characterises  this  account,  and  it  is  the  per- 
vading  spirit  of  his  whole  book.  I  should  pass  it  over  with 
these  few  remarks,  but  that  the  collision  produced  by  such 
extravagance  leads  often  to  a  better  knowledge  than  might 
otherwise  be  produced,  concerning  places  thus  disfigured  by 
hypocho7idna,  or  a  worse  impulse. 

After  Bolivar,  in  1819,  crossed  the  cordillera  from  Man- 
tecal,  and  the  sufferings  of  his  army  required  a  temporary 
repose  in  an  abundant  country,  he  selected  Santa  Rosa,  as 
at  once  the  most  fruitful  and  salubrious  part  of  the  luxuriant 
department  of  Boyacca.  The  greater  portion  of  the  popu- 
lation, old  and  young,  were,  I  believe,  assembled  in  the 
plaza  while  we  remained  there ;  the  visitors  of  both  sexes, 
and  of  all  ages,  were  numerous,  and  the  most  respectable 
people;  and  as  the  prevalence  of  the  goitre  was  a  subject 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  427 

of  constant  observation  and  comparison,  since  I  saw  the  first 
near  Truxillo,  I  feel  satisfied  that  the  goitre  could  not  have 
escaped  my  observation ;  for  if  there  were  any  so  afflicted, 
they  certainly  did  not  come  abroad  that  day  ;  and  it  cannot 
be  presumed  that  M.  Mollien's  opportunities  were  more 
favourable. 

I  have  often  heard  objected  to  the  scholastic  system  of  edu- 
cation, and  to  that  which  remained  as  a  professed  reformation 
of  it,  which  prevailed  under  the  ancient  regime  in  France, 
that  it  is  too  rhetorical ;  the  force  of  artificial  forms  substi- 
tuted for  rational  principles,  leads  to  prefer  conceits  and  the 
whims  of  imagination  to  truth,  which  loses  its  power,  and  facts 
are  discarded  for  hyperbole.  The  deportment  of  MoUien 
was  sulky  and  suspicious,  and  the  bias  of  his  prejudices  was 
visible  in  every  conversation  in  which  I  heard  him  take  any 
part.  Had  a  stranger  entered  a  town  of  France  at  midnight, 
say  Troyes,  Arras,  or  Orleans,  places  of  unquestionable 
hospitality — had  he  knocked  at  the  door  of  the  mayor,  or 
the  sub-prefect,  or  a  district  judge,  or  even  the  curate,  what 
would  be  his  reception — where  would  his  lodgings  be?  not 
perhaps  so  delicious  as  in  the  pulpureia  of  the  Chichadera  of 
Santa  Rosa  ! 

Having  so  far  noticed  M.  Mollien's  book,  written  after  I 
had  a  personal  knowledge  of  him,  I  shall  defer  further  notice 
of  his  book  until  I  shall  have  ascertained  whether  there  shall 
remain  any  room,  after  discussing  the  subjects  originally 
proposed  for  notice  in  this  publication. 


428 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Parching-  Paypa — peeled  faces— sublime  wildness  of  the  country — features  of 
the  Andes  not  well  understood — an  appearance  like  an  army — anecdote  of  a 
Spanish  commander — forms  in  order  of  battle  to  receive  three  columns  of 
Colombians — three  columns  of  goats — diversity  of  fruit  in  the  same  patch — 
reach  Enimacon— Virgin  of  Chinchinquira — has  the  faculty  of  multiplying  her- 
self—procession  described — hospitable  mulatto — the  Virgin  becomes  a  patriot, 
and  makes  a  donation  to  Bolivar— Bull  fight — realization  of  Mr.  Windham's 
ideas  of  a  brave  nation — ecclesiastical  visit — example  of  a  traveller's  acquire- 
ments in  the  vernacular  tongue  in  the  West  Indies. 

There  are  two  places  of  the  name  of  Paypa,  or  Pipa,  one 
of  which  is  called  parching  Paypa  or  Paypa  the  -windy  ^  and  this 
latter  we  had  to  pass  this  day  ;  and  we  did  pass  it  at  the  ex- 
pence  of  the  scarf  skin  of  our  faces,  and  with  lips  so  sore,  as 
to  have  continued  unhealed  till  we  were  some  days  at  Bogo- 
ta. This  passage  is  not  literally  a  paramo,  for  fertility  and 
vegetation  flourish  all  the  way,  where  man  has  thought  fit  to 
occupy  and  gather  the  product.  But  the  road  being  carried 
along  on  the  south  side  of  the  mountain  range,  and  exposed 
to  the  reflected  heat  of  a  series  of  rude  and  wild  rocks, 
which  wind  from  the  south  and  east,  and  sink  into  low 
ranges  on  the  east ;  the  hot  air  appears  to  be  drawn  by  the 
moisture  and  verdure  on  the  length  or  south  face  of  the  moun- 
tain along  which  we  were  marching.  Those  who  travel  this 
journey  should  be  provided  here,  and  on  other  paramos, 
against  scorched  faces  and  split  lips ;  not  that  the  wind  or 
air  appears  hot,  or  to  dift'er  materially  from  the  mountain 
breezes  where  no  such  effects  are  produced.  In  passing  over 
Paypa,  we  were  warned  of  this  parching  wind,  and  advised 
to  screen  our  faces  from  its  effects  ;  we  did  not  pay  due  re- 
gard to  the  advice,  and  when  we  saw  the  natives  of  the  coun- 
try, mounted  on  their  mules,  and  travelling  the  same  road, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMDIA.  429 

with  their  faces  so  tied  up,  and  their  mouths  so  covered, 
that  nothing  but  the  eyes  were  perceptible,  we,  so  much  are 
men  the  creatures  of  habit,  we  treated  them  in  our  private 
discourse  as  unbecomingly  effeminate.  We  purchased  ex- 
perience by  several  days  of  very  unpleasant  pain,  before 
our  faces  were  entirely  peeled^  and  a  new  scarf  skin  supplied 
the  place  of  that  scorched  off.  The  first  remedy  I  found  for 
the  lips,  was  the  pellicle  which  separates  the  shell  from  the 
meat  of  a  boiled  egg  ;  and  this,  though  it  protects  the  lip  from 
reiterated  scorching,  does  no  more.  I  apprehend  that  oil 
of  a  pure  quality,  used  with  a  sponge,  would  defend  the 
face.  The  people  of  the  country,  however,  secure  them- 
selves by  the  practice  they  pursue. 

The  country  \\hich  spreads  abroad  its  spacious,  but  diver- 
sified plains  and  waving  grounds  to  the  east  and  south, 
among  the  mountains  beyond  the  scope  of  distinct  vision, 
is  so  perfectly  new,  and  unlike  any  preceding  part  of  the 
journey,  as  to  excite  curiosity  and  surprize  at  every  step.  As 
the  main  route  of  travelling  hitherto,  lies  along  the  lofty 
sides  and  often  the  lofty  ridges  of  the  Andes,  the  hasty  reader 
would  be  apt  to  conclude,  that  where  there  was  so  much 
mountain,  or  as  it  would  seem  all  mountain,  there  could  be 
comparatively  little  room  or  soil  for  cultivation.  No  infer- 
ence could  be  more  mistaken.  The  general  notions  derived 
from  maps,  the  best  of  which  are  very  defective,  beyond 
what  relates  to  latitude  and  longitude,  and  which,  to  render 
the  mountain  system  comprehensible,  should  be  upon  a  large 
scale,  and  depicted  circumstantially  ;  maps  generally  repre- 
sent a  long  pervading  ridge,  rising  near  the  south  Capes  of 
Terra  del  Fuego,  passing  along  to  the  equator  in  a  waving 
but  northern  line ;  there  dividing  at  Assuay,  into  three  great 
limbs,  and  taking  their  separate  directions,  each  still  depicted 
as  single  limbs.  These  errors,  very  innocent  under  the 
defective   state  of  topographic  drawing,  should  be  guard- 


430  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

ed  against.  Those  very  limbs,  like  the  great  chain,  con- 
tain,  within  their  summits,  vast  plains  and  valleys  of  im- 
mense extent  and  diversity  of  direction,  upon  which  the  An- 
des, seen  on  either  side  from  within,  are  reduced  by  position 
to  the  apparent  elevation  of  ordinary  hills.  The  same  cha- 
racter  belongs  to  all  the  limbs  and  ranges  of  the  Cordillera, 
till  they  sink  in  the  slopes  and  platforms  of  Choco  and  Da- 
rien,  in  the  bluff  cliffs  of  Santa  Marta,  or  in  the  gulph  of 
Paria,  before  Trinidad.  Nor  is  this  characteristic  of  the 
American  Andes  alone  ;  the  country  of  Mysore,  in  Hindus- 
tan, is  such  a  platform  as  that  of  the  plain  of  Bogota  ;  and  the 
steeps  of  Hindu  Coosh,  which  separate  the  northern  India  from 
Tartary,  and  Tibethean  Asia,  exhibit  the  very  same  character. 
The  Cordillera  which  passes  to  the  cast  from  Assuay,  ap- 
pears like  a  knot  of  several  cords  tied  at  Pamplona,  from  which 
the  separate  parts  spread  more  or  less  wide,  leaving  the  most 
fertile  plains  and  valleys  intermediate,  closed  in  with  walls, 
by  which  they  seem  shut  out  from  all  concourse.  The  moun- 
tains here  seem  very  remote,  and  the  hills  that  intervene 
scarce  assume  the  mountain  elevation.  The  sloping  grounds, 
the  vast  pastures,  which  at  a  distance  seem  to  move,  or  to  be 
animated,  by  a  sort  of  mirage  produced  by  the  motion  of  in- 
numerable flocks  and  herds.  On  approaching  Paypa,  the 
country  presents  still  new  and  bolder  lines,  huge  sloping 
banks  of  many  thousand  acres  appear  cut  off  from  their  for- 
mer continuous  line  of  unison  with  the  mountain  ;  these  phe- 
nomena are  not  ravines  wrought  by  descending  torrents, 
which  are  nevertheless  there,  and  form  a  part  of  the  great 
work  of  eternal  revolution ;  those  separations  are  transverse 
to  the  descending  line.  On  approaching  Paypa,  the  face  of 
the  country  presents  lines  and  forms  still  more  bold  and 
singular,  huge  sloping  banks  of  many  thousand  acres  of  an- 
gular figure,  break  into  steeps  and  overhang  lower  flats, 
which  cut  across  transversely,  hang  over  others  in  several  suc- 
cessive but  unequal  ranges  ;  the  lofty  ridges,  diminished  by 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  431 

distance,  leave  no  idea  of  die  Andes,  for  which,  as  Humboldt 
tnily  observes,  the  traveller  is  searching  around  him,  when 
in  fact  they  are  beneath  his  feet ;  occasionally,  but  not  fre- 
quent, a  rill  or  a  foaming  torrent  present  themselves,  just  show 
their  glittering  or  their  frothy  figures,  unite  and  rush  together 
into  a  partial  oblivion,  leaving  the  yellow  or  the  gray  bluffs, 
which  their  insidious  currents  have,  by  undermining,  left  as 
the  monuments  of  their  resistless  power  ;  litUe  hills  which 
recal  remembrances  of  regions  more  remote,  with  clumps  of 
forest  or  of  fruit-bearing  trees,  give  emblems  of  the  peach 
or  the  apple  orchard ;  lawns  spread   out  where    the  cattle 
graze  on  luxuriant  pastures,  recalling  still  the  habitual  recol- 
lections of  the  dairy,  but  rendered  still   more  picturesque 
where  the  dell  recedes  so  low  from  the  cooler  range  of  moun- 
tain, and  gives  heat  and  sustenance  to  the  varied  palms  which, 
as  fl^r  as  I  have  seen,  are  more  numerous  in  their  species 
than  in   continental   Asia.     Far  beyond,  and   softened  into 
paler  shades,  the  plains,  for  distance   makes  all  plain,  the 
verdure  takes  a  tint  of  blue  from   the  transparent  heavens, 
and  diversifies  its  aspect  by  the  shadows  cast  on  lower  fields, 
from  hills  unseen  but  by  their  glittering  tips.     You  pass  a 
mass  of  forest  lowering  and  retreating  to  the  right,  or  west,  or 
north  ;  from  beneath  their  shades  rills  of  limpid  water  gush 
and  traverse  your  path  ;  here  the  Colombian  soldier  gives  a 
lecture  upon  the  diversity  of  human  character ;  he  does  not 
court  the  stream  to  cool  his  wayworn  feet ;  he  springs  like  a 
deer  across  it,  for  the  water  would  make  his  feet  effeminate  ; 
it  would  call  for  the  unready  expense  of  shoes,  which,  were 
he  rich,  money  could  not  purchase  ;  his  philosophy  is  com- 
pounded, like  all  habits  in  all  countries,  into  imitation,  and 
the  experience  taught  by  stern  necessity  in  a  state  of  society 
not  yet  acquainted  with  the   simpler  arts.     The  rills  unite 
like  passing  neighbours   on   a  journey,  and  travel  together 
chatting  on  their  way  to  the  lower  warmer  valleys  in  search 
of  luxury  and  a  warmer  temperature.     There  the  hato,  with 


482  VISIT  TO  COLOMDIA. 

its  thousands  of  horses,  breeding  mares,  mules,  and  asses, 
sjDread  over  pastures  fenced  with  sapHngs ;  spaces  set  apart 
with  clumps  of  forest  shade  for  breeding  ;  hamlets  appear  in 
the  remote  spaces  uhere  accumulated  mountain- streams  dis- 
play a  momentary  glassy  pond,  and  in  the  vast  semicircle 
which  the  vision  nuikes,  presents  to  the  observer  pictures 
which  are  no  where  more  rich,  expansive,  or  sublime. 

On  the  right,  near  old  Paypa,  the  mountains  appear  to 
crowd  in  closer,  and  give  a  new  contrast  in  their  dreary,  bar- 
ren, chalky  ravines,  and  their  dusky  clods  of  faded  moun- 
tain grass,  as  if  to  add  more  diversity  to  the  vast  landscapes, 
in  their  southern  and  eastern  front.  Passing  this  region, 
while  comparing  the  height  and  aspect  of  those  ridges  on 
our  right,  with  the  more  chalky  mountains  west  of  Barqui- 
simeto,  our  party  was  much  and  agreeably  amused  by  the 
pleasantry  of  our  sergeant.  He  had  learned,  by  some  means, 
that  our  domestic,  Vincente,  had  been  once  captured  by  the 
Spaniards,  and  that  his  apprehensions  of  a  recapture  were 
among  the  few,  perhaps  the  only  disquietudes  to  which  he 
was  subjected.  The  sergeant  possessed  animal  spirits  inex- 
haustible, and  as  the  mule  pursues  the  *'  noiseless  tenor  of 
his  vvay,"  in  a  gait  so  sedate  and  unhurried,  there  is  ample 
opportunity,  time,  and  much  temptation  to  conversation,  on 
a  journey  that  is  ninety-nine  in  an  hundred  parts  solitary. 
Our  negro  servant,  Pedro,  was  of  St.  Domingo,  and  not  less 
apprehensive  of  the  Spaniards.  While  we  were  viewing 
those  chalk  riven  mountains,  the  sergeant  suddenly  halted, 
and  exclaimed,  as  if  in  affright,  "  Mira  I  Mira  !  los  Co- 
das arribaP'' — Look  !  behold  !  the  Spaniards  are  above  there ! 
and  he  pointed  to  a  particular  track  ;  began  to  describe  the 
objects  to  which  he  pointed,  and  whose  motion  was  very  vi- 
sible, and  in  a  direction  that  approached  our  path  ;  the  ser- 
geant described  them  as  three  divisions  of  Spanish  troops,  and 
gravely  showed  that  they  were  pursuing  parallel  paths,  des- 
cending towards  the  route  wc  had  to  cross ;  the  objects  moved 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  433 

m  very  regular  order,  indeed,  as  the  sergeant  described ;  and, 
in  fact,  the  line  of  the  direction  from  which  they  were  ap- 
proaching was  the  mountain  road  of  Toca.  The  panic  of 
the  servants  was  indescribable,  and  at  the  first  exclamation 
and  view  I  was  myself  staggered,  and  should  have  continued 
perhaps  under  the  same  impression  as  the  domestics,  had  I 
not  recollected  that  there  could  be  no  Spanish  troops  in  that 
quarter.  Poor  Vincente  approached  me  for  counsel,  to  know 
what  was  to  be  done,  because,  he  said,  if  the  Spaniards 
took  him  again,  he  should  be  most  undoubtedly  put  to  death. 
The  sergeant,  apprehensive  that  I  should  spoil  the  affair,  gave 
me  a  supplicating  hint,  and  I  told  Vincente  I  should  call  him 
presently  to  see  what  was  to  be  done,  but  that  for  the  present 
we  must  move  forward.  Those  formidable  columns  ap- 
proached by  this  time  within  perhaps  two  miles  of  us,  and 
were  then  not  very  distant  from  the  plain  ;  their  order  was 
in  close  Indian  file,  and  covered  a  considerable  length  of 
line,  on  three  parallel  paths.  Having  gained  a  position  some- 
what elevated,  the  sergeant  requested  us  to  observe  them, 
and  then  told  us  an  anecdote  of  a  Spanish  general,  marching 
as  we  were,  on  the  way  towards  Tunja,  who  had  encountered 
a  difficulty  at  the  very  same  place  ;  but  he  had  supposed  the 
lines  descending  to  be  Colombianos^  and,  calculating  as  well  as 
he  could  the  numbers  of  the  approaching  body,  drew  up  his 
troops  on  this  spot,  said  the  sergeant,  and  determined  to  give 
battle ;  after  manoeuvring  an  hour,  continued  the  sergeant, 
and  finding  the  Colombianos  did  not  approach,  he  determined 
to  advance  upon  them,  and  moved  for  that  little  village  on 
the  right,  and  when  he  arrived  there  he  found  they  were  in- 
deed Colombianos — but  Colomhiano  goats  !  Vincente  and 
Pedro,  who  had  listened  with  opened  mouths  and  dumb 
anxiety,  now  looked  at  each  other  with  different  emotions. 
Poor  Vincent  appeared  to  hesitate  between  doubt  and  abash- 
ment, as  if  he  had  rather  the  Godas  were  there  than  that  he 
should  be  so  taken  in ;  the  negro  laughed  outright,  and  ex- 

55 


434»  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

claimed,  ''^  that  sergeant  is  a  debet  ov  a  fellah  In  truth,  there 
vviis  no  great  reason  lor  Vincente  to  be  ashamed  ;  for,  consi- 
dering that  war  existed,  and  that  battles  had  been  fought  on 
the  very  ground  we  were  then  passing  over,  and  the  array  of 
the  goats  moving  on  parallel  paths  on  the  steep  sides  of  the 
Sierra,  and  the  uniforms  of  troops  in  that  country  being  ge- 
nerally white,  with  the  regularity  of  their  mgtion,  the  appear- 
ance was  very  deceptive. 

We  now  wound  along  through  defiles,  formed  by  the 
near  approach  of  contiguous  mountains,  at  the  foot  of 
one  of  which  I  saw  a  space  enclostd  with  a  loose  stone- 
wall, in  front  of  some  pretty  prospering  cottages  ;  within  the 
enclosure  there  was  a  very  fine  fig-tree  in  fruit,  an  elegant  ap- 
plC'tree  in  blossom,  a  peach-tree,  and  a  plant  which  I  recog- 
nized as  a  species  of  palm,  in  India  called  the  parv-paiv-tree. 
The  perfume  of  the  apple- blossom  I  thought  uncommonly 
delicious,  and  that  of  the  paw-paw  seemed  to  be  blended 
with  it.  The  fences  of  saplings,  on  this  day's  journey,  were 
numerous,  and  handsome,  and  the  grounds  appeared  as 
clean  and  free  from  rubbish  or  decayed  vegetables,  as  if 
there  was  much  skill  and  pains  employed  in  the  husbandry. 

On  Thursday,  before  dawn,  we  set  out  with  an  intention 
to  make  a  long  march  before  night.  The  climate  was  now 
lovely ;  there  were  no  declivities ;  and  population  and  abun- 
dance seemed  to  smile  all  round.  At  the  end  of  about 
twelve  miles  we  reached  the  village  of  Nimacon,  or  Enima- 
con.  It  is  a  small,  though  a  very  ancient  village,  and  from 
the  suburb  to  the  plaza  was  but  a  few  yards  ;  we  found  the 
whole  population  in  motion,  the  paisanos  with  their  best 
clean  shirts,  and  the  tails  embroidered  with  the  needle-work 
of  their  sweethearts,  hanging,  for  grace,  and  ornament,  and 
attraction,  over  their  osnaburg  or  Santa  Rosa  manufactured 
cotton  pantaloons;  neat  paragattas  put  on  in  honour  of  the  vir- 
gin; the  damsels  in  their  bettermost  attire  ;  their  blue  mantillas 
of  w^oollen  cloth  paramount ;  their  hair  sleekly  and  handsome- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  435 

\y  dressed,  and,  where  the  measure  of  pecuniary  opulence  did 
not  afford  a  comb,  a  handsome  bodkin  of  ebony-Uke  wood 
or  fancifully  carved  horn,  gave  to  the  apprehension  the  simi- 
litudes of  taste  and  ornament  in  the  valleys  of  Canaan,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  in  the  cinnamon  groves  of  Ceylon, 
or  the  sunny  shores  of  Otaheite.  The  only  varieties  of  fe- 
male apparel  designating  difference  of  condition,  were  a  few 
silken  black  petticoats,  and  uniformly  accompanied  by  stock- 
ings and  silken  slippers ;  but  they  were  very  few  ;  the  manti' 
lla  was  more  usually  associated  with  xvedding  stockings  and 
slippers,  which  the  owner  always  carried  to  the  brook  for 
washing  ;  a  neater  paragatta,  or  sandal,  sometimes  interfer- 
ed between  the  foot  of  a  young  damsel  and  the  soil ;  the 
present  of  some  swain,  the  tail  of  whose  shirt  she  had  em- 
broidered— rivalling  the  mosaic  forms  of  the  antique,  and  in 
a  style  equally  original  and  not  less  fanciful.  One  only  fe- 
male we  saw,  who  might  be  called  well  dressed,  of  whom 
more  presently.  It  was  the  anniversary  of  some  festival  of 
the  Virgin  of  Chinchinquira^  very  celebrated  for  many  hun- 
dred miles  around.  The  original  virgin  holds  her  original 
place  at  the  village,  to  which  she  gives  her  name,  about 
fifty  miles  north-west  of  Bogota  and  thirty  from  Tunja,  and 
has  acquired  almost  as  much  celebrity  from  the  credulity  of 
the  population,  and  the  artifices  of  the  Dominicans,  who  have 
the  management  of  the  imposition,  as  the  shrine  of  the  simi- 
larly celebrated  V^irgin  of  Loretto ;  but  here,  at  Nimacon, 
the  original  virgin  was  not  present,  but  her  representative. 
This  delusion,  equally  lamentable  for  the  infirmity  of  the  de- 
luded, and  the  depravity  of  its  managers,  cannot  be  too  of- 
ten exposed  ;  and  although  few  travel  through  that  country 
without  hearing  some  part  of  its  history,  I  shall  give  it  in  as 
itw  words  as  practicable.  At  a  period  not  very  remote,  the 
date  of  which  is  uncertain,  and  unimportant,  a  poor  woman, 
Maria  Rarnos,  residing  in  a  hut  on  the  site  of  the  present 
sumptuous    church  of  Chmchinqidra^  reported  herself,  or 


436  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

some  persons,  more  artful,  reported  in  her  name,  that  the 
Virgin  Mary  had  in  person  presented  her  portrait  painted  on 
canvass  to  Maria  Ramos.  A  storm  disregardful  of  this  precious 
portrait,  overthrew  her  rancho^  and  she  fled  to  the  house  of 
the  curate,  to  whom  she  is  stated  to  have  revealed  the  secret 
of  the  portrait,  and  appearance  of  the  virgin,  by  whom  it  was 
presented,  and  that  it  was  buried  in  the  ruin  of  her  rancho. 
The  holy  fathers  of  St.  Dominic,  apprised  of  this  miracle ^ 
hastened  to  recover  the  sacred  picture,  and  it  has  ever  since 
remained  the  object  of  devotion  for  many  hundred  miles 
round  ;  but  the  virgin,  like  the  Saraswati  of  the  Hindus, 
has  a  sort  of  omnipresence,  and  has  multiplied  herself  to  ma- 
ny distinct  places ;  as  far  as  Carthagena  and  Antioquia,  and 
elsewhere.  The  difficulty  of  travelling  over  immense  spaces, 
in  these  countries,  had  rendered  this  expedient  more  accom- 
modating to  the  pilgrims,  and  to  the  keepers  of  the  sanctua- 
ry ;  and,  as  one  miracle  is  as  good  as  another,  the  canvass 
painting  at  CImichinquira  not  only  renews  itself,  but  ap- 
points representatives — another  and  the  same — who,  like  the 
virgin  deputy  we  saw  at  Nimacon,  assumes  not  the  flat  form 
of  a  canvass  portrait,  but  appears  in  the  fulness  of  the  modern 
fashion,  and  the  substantial  forms  of  a  fine-dressed  milliner's 
Paris  doll  of  two  feet  four  inches.  This  accommodation  of 
miraculous  power,  to  the  pious  and  to  the  priests,  has  been 
very  fruitful !  !  ! 

We  chanced  to  arrive  in  the  very  midst  of  the  solem.nity. 
The  alcalde,  considering  the  serious  character  of  the  funccion 
now  going  on,  appeared  too  much  engrossed  to  think  of  go- 
ing beyond  the  next  rancho  on  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza, 
where  he  placed  us,  with  just  room  enough  to  hang  together ; 
and  went  about  the  solemnity  of  the  day.  The  thatched  roof 
of  our  rancho,  however,  advanced  four  feet  beyond  the  wall 
of  our  "  parlour,  kitchen,  and  all,"  forming  a  sort  of  corridor, 
whence,  at  only  the  expense  of  being  stared  at,  we  could  see 
every  thing.     The  alcalde,  in  a  moment  of  recovery  from  his 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  437 

cares,  returned  to  tell  us  that  the  furiccion  would  render  it  out 
of  his  power  to  provide  mules  that  day  ;  so  we  were  fixed  for 
the  night  at  Nimacon,  and,  making  a  merit  of  necessity,  set 
our  folks  to  provide  a  good  dinner,  and  purchase  eggs  for  the 
next  day's  march. 

We  had  litde  more  than  brushed  off  the  dust,  and  rubbed 
up  our  faces,  when  the  procession  was  seen  issuing  from  the 
ample  gates  of  the  church,  which  stood  on  the  east  face  of 
the  plaza  in  our  full  view,  and  passing  along  the  north  side 
where  we  had  taken  post  in  our  corridor,  perambulated  by  the 
west  and  south  sides  of  the  square,  and  re-entering  the 
church,  chaunting  the  while  in  no  mean  measure  of  solemn 
music.  Several  horsemen  led  to  clear  the  way,  and,  as  the 
square  was  without  a  fence,  the  multitude  had  ample  room 
to  see  the  show.  Some  persons  in  surplices  preceded,  others 
with  censers  threw  forth  the  odours  of  frankincense  and 
myrrh,  then  came  the  cross  with  other  followers  in  costume, 
and  then  the  curate  in  the  damasked  robes  of  high  service ; 
a  choir  in  surplices  followed,  all  bearing  wax  tapers  lighted, 
and  giving  the  chaunt;  then  came  other  surpliced  youths  and 
more  censers  and  incense  ;  the  chief  object  of  all  followed,  a 
litter  carried  on  four  men's  shoulders  sustained  a  canopy, 
curtained  with  rose-coloured  silk  and  ornaments  of  gold  ; 
the  curtains  were  festooned,  and  displayed  the  Virgin  of 
Chinchinguira,  or,  as  the  Hindoos  have  it,  one  of  her  incar- 
nations. This  was  the  shrine,  of  which  the  curtains,  usually 
closed,  were  on  this  occasion  festooned  out  of  special  grace 
to  an  admiring  multitude.  The  face  of  the  virgin  was  of 
wax,  and  the  figure  in  the  best  modern  taste  of  Paris  milli- 
nery;  and,  making  a  little  allowance  for  an  unbending  erect- 
ness  not  so  becoming  in  mere  mortals,  she  had  all  the  exter- 
nals of  a  pretty  little  ruby-lipped,  rosy-cheeked,  black-eyed 
girl  of  three  or  four  years  old. 

Immediately  after  the  virgin  came  two  younger  ecclesiastics 
in  surplices  and  stoles,  and,  if  they  did  not  govern,  at  least  par- 


438  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

took  in  the  chaunt ;  though  I  could  perceive  as  they  passed 
their  eyes  more  engaged  with  us  than  with  the  ceremony. 
Prior  to  and  during  the  procession,  the  angles  of  the  square 
were  occupied  each  l)y  a  table  and  a  sort  of  white  muslin 
screen,  which  I  suspect  were  originally  intended  for  altars  ; 
they  were  overhung  with  pictures,  trinkets,  and  baubles  of 
every  description,  and  some  distiches  in  Spanish  which  I  had 
no  opportunity  to  peruse,  as  they  disappeared  at  the  close 
of  the  Jimccioji. 

Before  the  procession  commenced,  a  good  natured  mulatto ^ 
who  had  been  making  free  with  the  good  things  of  this  world 
in  honour  of  the  virgin,  and  in  whom  his  indulgence  had 
diminished  natural  bashfulness,  while  it  augmented  his  good 
nature,  though  it  rather  atVected  his  articulation,  solicited 
us  to  take  possession  of  the  balcony  of  his  own  adjacent  two 
story  house,  and  went  very  near  the  precincts  of  swearing  at 
the  alcalde  for  putting  such  folks  as  we  were  in  such  a 
shabby  rancho ;  he  told  us  that  he  was  rich  and  free,  and, 
por  gracios  a  dioSj  he  had  fought  under  Bolivar ;  then  he 
sung  a  stanza,  of  which  Bolivar  was  the  theme ;  and  then 
prayed  us  almost  to  provocation,  to  take  possession  of  his 
house  ;  the  virgin,  he  said,  was  a  tried  friend  to  Bolivar,  and 
when  the  army  was  in  great  want,  the  virgin  had  presented 
Bolivar  with  8150,000,  which  entitled  her  to  the  love  of  all 
Colombians.  The  fact  as  to  a  large  sum  of  money  being 
presented  to  Bolivar  for  the  public  use,  was  unquestionable  ; 
but  the  virgin,  on  a  former  occasion,  had  been  equally  liberal 
to  the  Spaniards  :  the  mulatto,  however,  either  did  not  know 
this,  or  sunk  it  out  of  veneration  to  the  virgin.  The  zeal 
and  good  will  of  this  kind  mulatto  had,  however,  contrary 
to  his  intentions,  annoyed  us  very  much,  and  drew^  a  crowd 
around  that  rendered  it  disagreeable  ;  had  we  arrived  an  hour 
earlier,  or  he  had  asked  us  before  the  procession  begun,  we 
should  certainly  have  accepted  his  offer  for  our  own  comfort, 
as  his  house  was  the  best  built  on  the  square,  the  curate's 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  439 

only  (and  always)  excepted ;  and  I  was  painfully  obliged  to 
request  his  absence,  acknowledging  ourselves  obliged  by  his 
good  will ;  he  retired  readily,  but  rather  in  discontent  at  his 
disappointment  in  not  having  the  pleasure  of  entertaining  los 
estrangeros  blancos  (the  white  strangers)  in  his  own  house. 

The  gift  of  the  virgin  to  the  patriot  army  is  spoken  of  in 
all  parts  of  the  country.  The  good  brotherhood  of  St.  Do- 
minic,  who  are  her  confidential  advisers,  alone  know  how 
the  money  was  delivered,  and  are  so  modest  as  to  say  no- 
thing about  it ;  though  they  have  derived  from  it,  in  addi- 
tion to  their  reputation  as  priests,  a  great  celebrity  as  patriots, 
of  which  before  too  many  were  incredulous.  However, 
those  who  were  sceptical  as  to  their  politics,  did  not  take 
into  consideration  other  circumstances ;  the  Dominicans 
had  once  been  exiled  from  Bogota,  under  the  viceroyalty, 
and  sent  to  Panama  ;  their  wealth  was  at  that  time  enormous, 
and  if  they  had  followed  the  fortunes  of  the  royal  govern- 
ment, the  Virgin  of  Chinchinquira  would  not  follow  them 
to  another  country.  Their  inordinate  wealth,  contrary  to 
very  general  experience  among  men  in  general,  who  are  very 
apt  to  become  indifferent  to  any  principles  when  they  be- 
come rich — it  is  their  riches  which  makes  these  jolly  fathers 
most  zealous  republicans. 

"^YhQ  fimccion  had  ceased  but  a  short  time,  when  a  powerful 
and  as  handsome  a  brindled  bull  as  could  be  seen,  was  dri- 
ven on  to  the  square,  which  was  indeed  a  well  covered  green 
field.  He  bore  a  strong  bull  hide  collar,  but  no  rope  at- 
tached. He  was  driven  by  as  substantially  characteristic  a 
mob,  as  could  be  picked  up  at  a  London  bull  beat,  in  Smith- 
field,  or  Petty  France — las  gentes  baxos  y  de  los  malos  pro- 
cederes — the  celebrated  Mr.  Windham  of  England,  had  he 
been  living,  and  present  at  this  bull-bait,  would  say  that 
*'  the  nation  must  be  heroic  whose  bulls  were  so  fierce,  and 
its  mob  so  fearless." 


440  VISIT   TO   COLOMBIA. 

The  poor   bull  however  had  not  (juite   lair   play  ;  there 
were  no  dogs  indeed   to  muzzle  or  gore  him,   but,  without 
a  shield,  he  was  obliged  to  light  men  in  ambush ;  the  mata- 
dores,  which,   from  analog}-,  they  may  be  called,   some  an- 
noyed his  rear  by  a  small   sharp  pointed  goad  ;   while  others 
in   front,  who   had   brought  their  cloaks  or  roanas,  placed 
them  on  a  stick,  and,  covering  themselves,  the  bull  plunged 
at  the  cloak,  while  the  man  evaded   him  by  alertly  jumping 
out  of  the  line  of  the  projectile.     Another  and  another  pro- 
ceeded, until   the  bull  appeared  to  have  discovered   the   de- 
ceit, and,   in  one  or  two  instances,   disregarding   the   cloak, 
plunged  at  the  assailant   behind  it :  had  the  violence  of  the 
plunge  not  carried   the   bull  ten  or  twelve  feet   beyond  the 
assailant,  he  must  have  Jloored  his  man,  or  done  him  u^  for 
ever.     The  man  was  indeed   trampled   upon,   but,    before 
the  bull  could   recover  the  violence  of  his  own  plunge,  the 
fallen  man  was  on  his  legs,  and   the   bull  occupied  by  half 
a  dozen  other  matadores.     He   had  now   become  so  fierce 
that,  by  means  of  lassos^  he  was   brought  to  a  post,  a  long 
rope  hitched  to  the  collar — and   the  other  end  affixed  in  the 
centre,  he  had  the  full  range  of  the  square.     There  was  a 
post  like  a  lamp-post,  within  fifteen  feet  of  our  caravanserai, 
and  it  was  within  range  of  the  bull's  tether;  the  same  indi- 
vidual,  who  had  before  twice  escaped,  seemed  to  be  marked 
out  by  the  bull,  who  pursued  him  in  the  direction  of  where 
we  stood ;  the  matadore  had  no  resource  but  to  clamber  up 
the  lamp-post,  which  he  did  with  the  agility  of  a   monkey, 
to  the  great  disappointment  of  the  bull,  who  aimed  repeated 
butts  at  the  post,  but  without  effect.     The  rope  was  soon 
after  loosed  and  the  show  was  over. 

Sometime  afterwards  the  two  young  clergymen,  whom 
we  could  distinguish  also  as  cavaliers  at  the  bull-fight,  paid 
us  a  visit,  apologised  for  the  curate's  being  occupied  on  our 
arrival,  and  fatigued  at  that  time,  and  tendering  any  services 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  44l 

we  stood  in  need  of.  A  most  lovely  woman,  a  sister  of  one 
of  the  priests,  accompanied  them ;  she  was  elegantly  dressed, 
though  in  simplicity  and  neatness ;  she  would  have  been  an 
expressive  model  for  a  Minerva — in  figure,  complexion,  and 
easy  manners.  One  of  the  priests,  her  brother,  a  very  jolly 
fellow,  let  us  know  he  had  seen  the  world,  for  he  had  been 
all  the  way  at  Jamaica,  and  lived  there  several  months ;  en- 
quiring what  progress  he  had  made  in  English,  he  said  he 
could  make  no  hand  of  it ;  for  he  had  learned  nothing  but 
how  to  address  the  servants — seeing  our  negro  servant,  Pe- 
dro, standing  by,  he  asked  him  in  Spanish  where  he  came 
from,  and  what  liis  name  was.  Pedro  answered  directly  ;  the 
priest,  thereupon,  gave  us  the  only  part  of  an  English  edu- 
cation which  he  had  acquired  at  Jamaica,  by  saying  to  Pe- 
dro— "  Go  to  hel/y  you  d d  son  of  a  h ."    The  visit 

soon  terminated. 

That  night  we  heard,  almost  without  intermission,  the 
kind  of  hautboy  which  we  had  heard  before  at  Timothes, 
but  we  slept  well  nevertheless. 

There  are  salt  works  in  this  neighbourhood,  like  those  at 
Zepiquira  ;  but  the  festivity  absorbed  so  much  of  the  gene- 
ral attention,  that  no  other  subject  was  attended  to. 


56 


442 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


Ascend  tlic  verdant  Sierra — l-'ra.  Garcia — Valley  leading  to  Tunja — tlie  Daisy 
and  the  Linnet  of  Kiiro])c  liere — beautiful  aspect  of  Tunja — lotlgcd  at  the 
house  of  ('ol.  Banos — the  National  N'itre  Manufactory — crowd  of  visiters — 
lovely  Women — the  blue  Mantilla  an  established  costume — described — former 
state  of  Tunja — present  state — delicious  cliTnaite-^Churches  numerous  and 
loftier  structure  than  common — curious  position  for  a  triple  of  the  Virgin  of 
Chincliiiujiiira — ideas  of  the  natural  riches  and  actual  poverty  of  Tunja — 
vyant  of  roails  universal,  cause  of  tlie  lands  l)einjj  valueless — prejudices  ex- 
posed— Senor  Soto,  a  Senator  from  this  district,  his  beneficence — an  example 
of  the  success  of  the  Lancasterian  system — leave  Tunja  31st  January — cross 
the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Boyacca — Hato  Viejo — plain  leading-  to  Choconta 
— surly  Commandant — march  on  horseback. 

The  alcalde  was  as  good  as  his  promise  of  mules  in  the 
morning,  and  wc  moved  very  early,  having  to  pass  el  Mont t 
arriba,  or  up  hill  a  great  part  of  this  day's  march.  The  roads 
•were,  however,  no  way  disagreeable,  and  we  had  the  com- 
pany till  within  a  few  miles  of  Tunja,  of  our  acquaintance, 
Fra.  Garcia,  whom  we  found  to  be  a  very  intelligent  and  ami- 
able man,  and  circumstantially  curious  in  his  inquiries  on 
every  topic :  the  United  States  ;  its  extent ;  population  ;  geo- 
graphical ])osition  ;  climate ;  customs,  &c.  The  route,  as 
the  approach  comes  nearer  to  Tunja,  lies  on  the  side  of  a 
mountain,  which  has  very  gentle  green  slopes  to  tlie  east,  and 
forming  the  west  side  of  a  long  but  undulating  valley  ;  the 
soil  good  ;  the  verdure  delightful ;  and  the  forests,  to  the 
west  only,  lofty  and  majestic ;  the  valley  at  the  foot  of  the 
slope  is  narrow,  and  not  so  much  occupied  as  is  usual  in 
such  positions.  The  opposite  or  east  side  of  the  valley  was 
skirted  by  a  mountain  more  elevated  than  that  on  which  we 
moved,  and  of  a  very  sterile  aspect ;  the  verdure  was  scanty, 
and  the  little  vegetation  that  w^as  perceptible,  had  a  brown- 
ish hue,  furrowed  by  rain  into  little  diverging  ravines,  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  443 

edges  of  which  betrayed  a  gray  or  chalky  hue.  There  were 
no  forests  nor  plantations  on  that  side,  but,  as  is  characteristic 
of  the  whole  body  of  the  Cordilleras,  the  apparently  long 
continuous  chain  was  frequently  intersected.  On  the  flice  of 
the  mountain  some  villages  were  made  conspicuous  by  the 
whited  churches,  and  through  some  transverse  sections  of 
the  range  villages  appeared,  and  churches,  and  most  singu- 
lar a  lively  verdure,  and  grazing  flocks  and  herds,  as  if  the 
eastern  sides  had  been  composed  of  different  materials,  or  in 
a  different  climate  from  the  western  exposure. 

On  the  verdant  close  dipt  sod  over  which  we  now  travel- 
led, I  recognized  the  daisy  of  Europe,  and  in  a  shady  copse 
the  gray  linnet,  which  attracted  me  first  by  its  thistle-note ;  I 
recognized  it  by  its  plumage  and  song  several  times  after- 
wards. Another  bird  of  the  European  family,  frequently 
amused  us  on  our  path,  the  water- wagtail,  alighting  a  few 
yards  before  us,  and  taking  flight  in  advance  and  waiting  for 
us  again  ;  its  manners,  as  well  as  its  form  and  plumage,  ex- 
actly the  same  as  the  European  bird. 

My  long  acquaintance  with  the  late  M.  Torres,  minister 
of  Colombia,  had  made  mc  familiar  by  description  with  many 
parts  of  Colombia,  and  particularly  with  Tunja.  I  was  struck 
with  the  truth  of  his  description  the  moment  we  descended 
to  along  lawn  covered  with  a  velvet  turf,  across  which  a  rill 
of  pure  water  reluctantly  crept ;  the  city  soon  arrests  the  eye, 
and  seems  to  the  api)roaching  spectator,  as  if  it  was  hung  up 
in  air ;  its  spires  and  edifices  numerous,  and  rising  amphi- 
theatrically  to  the  rear ;  advancing  nearer,  a  broad  and  well- 
formed  road,  bordered  by  the  grass-clad  carpet,  continues  for 
some  length  of  way,  and  presents  the  openings  of  the  streets 
rising  from  the  plain,  and  lengthening  from  north  to  south. 
Presently  the  road  diverges  into  three  narrower  paths,  leading 
to  three  principal  streets.  We  look  the  central  path,  and  by 
a  gradual  ascent  gained  the  pavement,  pursuing  our  route  to 
the  plaza.     Passing  a  lofty  edifice,  and  seeing  sentinels  post- 


444  VISIT   TO   COLOMBIA. 

ed,  I  asked  for  the  head  quarters  ;  a  subaltern,  who  had  just 
reached  the  wicket,  enquired,  I  presume,  sir,  you  are  Colonel 
D.  Answering  in  the  affirmative,  he  said,  (juarters  were  pro- 
vided for  you  for  two  days  past  at  Colonel  Banos',  and  po- 
litely led  the  way,  complimenting  me  and  my  daughter  on 
our  having  made  so  long  a  journey  in  such  good  health  and 
spirits.  He  led  us  to  the  house  ol  Colonel  Bafios,  where 
we  were  received  like  old  acquaintances  by  the  old  gentle- 
man. 

This  gentleman  superintends  the  manufactory  of  nitre  at 
this  i)lace,  which  belongs  to  the  government ;  the  want  of 
chemical  knowledge  had  rendered  this  establishment  bur- 
densome to  the  public,  as  powder,  ready  made,  could  be 
procured  from  abroad  at  a  lower  price  than  the  nitre  pro- 
duced here.  It  was  placed  under  the  direction  of  this  old 
veteran,  conditioned  to  furnish  nitre  to  the  government  at  a 
given  price.  The  process  here,  and  at  other  similar  estab- 
lishments, is  the  same  as  before  modern  chemistry  had  re- 
formed them,  simple  solution  and  evaporation  ;  but  the  use 
of  lime  had  been  introduced,  as  I  understood,  by  his  son,  a 
promising  youth  of  eighteen,  with  the  best  education  of  the 
country,  but  wanting  cliemical  knowledge,  to  acquire  which 
he  had  applied  himself  to  French  and  English  study.  I  ad- 
vised his  going  to  the  School  of  Mines  at  Paris  for  two 
years,  as  the  best  practical  chemical  school  existing. 

We  had  arrived  but  ^i<rw~  minutes  when  the  house  was 
cro\vded  with  female  visiters  ;  there  were  some  beautiful, 
and  more  homely  ;  but  an  agreeable  vivacity  was  striking 
among  them  all,  more  so,  indeed,  than  at  Valencia.  Here  I 
saw,  for  the  first  time,  that  costume  of  females  which  pre- 
dominates here  and  at  Bogota,  the  blue  fine  cloth  mantilla^ 
and  the  black  silk  petticoat.  The  mantilla  is  not  a  cloak, 
though  it  serves  the  purposes  of  a  short  cloak  ;  it  has  no 
hood,  though  a  hood  is  contrived  to  be  made  out  of  it  by 
the  wearer ;  it   is  a  square  piece  of  fine  woollen,  and  when 


« 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  445 

put  on  the  centre  line  of  one  edge  is  placed  in  front  over 
the  forehead,  and  drawn  down  under  the  chin,  so  as  to 
cover  or  expose  the  ears  or  any  part  of  the  face  at  the  will 
of  the  wearer,  or  to  hide  a  part  or  all  of  the  hair,  or  none,  at 
discretion  ;  it  covers  the  shoulders  behind,  and  hangs  no 
lower  than  to  conceal  the  elbows,  and  is  lapped  in  front,  or 
with  a  skirt  thrown  over  either  shoulder,  and  a  low  cro\Mi, 
broad-lDrim,  clean  black  hat,  beaver  or  silk,  (usually  from 
Santa  Rosa,)  of  which  the  crown  is  too  narrow  to  press 
upon  the  head,  and  therefore  swings  on  the  summit  of  the 
mantilla  in  such  a  way  as  that  a  graceful,  pretty,  coquettish 
girl  of  Tunja  plays  so  many  pretty  airs,  in  balancing  her 
hat,  and  with  so  apparent  an  unconcern  about  it,  that  she 
bewitches  you  while  you  are  in  vain  attempting  to  repro- 
bate the  clownish  costume. 

This  costume  dittlrs  from  those  of  Peru  and  Chili,  in 
lacing  confined  to  the  blue  colour  and  woollen  material,  and 
the  black,  broad-brimmed  hat;  in  those  countries  a  shawl  or 
scarf  of  silk,  of  any  colour,  will  perform  the  services  of  the 
7nantilla ;  and  straw  hats,  such  as  men  wear  in  the  United 
States,  are  usually  worn  by  females  in  the  country  places, 
with,  however,  a  few  ornamental  ribbons  round  them.  The 
body  garments  beneath  the  cloak  are  never  visible,  unless  in 
the  domicil ;  besides  the  body  linen,  a  short  tunic  is  worn, 
very  open  in  front,  and,  usually,  with  a  scarf  covering  the 
neck  and  bosom. 

The  first  female  I  saw  in  Tunja  was  attired  in  the  man- 
tilla and  black  hat.  I  thought  I  never  saw  a  prettier  woman, 
the  mantilla  and  the  hat  to  the  contrary.  Tunja  has  a  foot 
pavement,  and  she  was  "  tripping  on  light  fantastic  toe'* 
down  the  pave  as  we  ascended  ;  her  figure  \vas  neat,  as  her 
handsome  feet  and  bright  stockings  ;  and  her  cheeks,  and 
lips,  and  eyes  could  not  be  neater  if  she  was  Hebe.  She 
was  one  of  the  visiters  of  the  evening,  and,  after  being  in- 
troduced,  we  were  as  much  acquainted  as  if  we  had  been 


446  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

familiar  a  year  :  she  told  me  she  took  notice  of  my  looking 
after  her;  and,  when  I  irankly  acknowledged  that  it  was  be- 
cause she  was  so  iiandsomc,  por  esta  razon  vos  viui  boriita — 
mid  hermosa — she  appeared  pleased  and  surprized  at  my 
not  affecting  to  conceal  the  truth. 

Tunja  had  been  the  rival  city  of  Bogota,  during  the  vice- 
royalty,  at  different  times,  and  had  become  a  place  of  retire- 
ment for  numerous  families  who  had  been  exposed  to  the 
rapacity  and  other  vices  of  viceroys,  w  ho  had  influence  enough 
at  Madrid  to  stifle  all  complaints  against  those  deputy  tyrants  ; 
and  Tunja,  for  its  serene  and  delightful  clime,  had  become, 
in  consequence  of  these  quarrels,  a  place  of  great  wealth. 
My  impressions  were,  in  all  that  relates  to  natural  circum- 
stances, realized  ;  the  buildings  of  every  kind  are  superior 
to  those  of  any  other  city  I  had  seen  in  Colombia.  The  ap- 
proach by  the  lawn  from  the  east  is  so  bright  and  light,  that 
it  seemed  hung  out  to  look  at,  like  some  toy  in  a  fairy  tale ; 
and  perhaps  the  picture  was  more  striking  from  a  compari- 
son with  the  chalky  hills  along  the  valley  through  which  we 
reached  it.  Besides  the  houses  being  two  stories  high,  they 
are  more  elevated  than  at  Caracas,  Merida,  or  the  greater 
part  of  Bogota  ;  and  the  streets  are  wider,  besides  having  a 
walking  path  at  the  sides,  which  is  not  to  be  seen  in  any  other 
of  the  cities.  The  elevation  of  the  site  may  perhaps  have 
made  the  impression  that  the  churches  are  more  elevated  than 
elsewhere,  but  it  is  sufficient  that  they  appear  to  uncommon 
advantage  on  the  exterior.  The  interior  I  did  not  examine, 
as  I  found  but  one  church  open,  and  the  decorations  are  ge- 
nerally in  such  bad  taste,  that  they  produce  unpleasing  rather 
than  agreeable  sensations  :  the  churches  had  less  of  the  ori- 
ental, and  more  of  the  heavy  Italian  architecture,  with  large 
mouldings  and  projections,  though  the  dwellings  maintained, 
in  and  out,  the  Asiatic  arrangements. 

The  Church  of  St.  James  is  the  most  favoured  in  local 
opinion;  that  of  Sta.  Barbara  is  next,  and  Las  Nievcs  is  the 


VISIT   TO  COLOMBIA.  447 

next ;  the  others  I  did  not  see,  and  could  learn  no  particu- 
lars worthy  of  taking  a  note.  The  monasteries  of  St.  Fran- 
cis and  St.  Dominic  are  much  spoken  of;  Lieutenant  Bache 
visited  that  of  St.  Francis,  along  with  Fra.  Garcia,  and  was 
pleased  with  the  guardian,  or  superior,  who  was  a  man  of 
much  science.  Monasteries  generally,  but  particularly  of 
females,  arc  not  objects  of  gratification  to  me  ;  they  impress 
me,  at  every  instant,  with  emotions  of  repulsion,  as  outrages 
upon  the  laws  of  nature,  wholly  apart  from  the  vices  they 
too  often  engender.  Whetlicr  the  convents  of  St.  Dominic 
and  St.  Austin,  or  the  nunneries  of  Sta.  Clara  and  the  Con- 
ception,— (rather  an  unlucky  name  for  a  nunnery) — or  any 
others,  continue  in  defiance  of  the  restored  rights  of  man,  I 
did  not  learn.  The  Virgin  of  Chinchincjuira,  whose  double 
we  saw  at  Nimacon,  has  a  triple  at  Tunja,  which  stands  on 
the  summit  of  a  mount  called  Iajs  yl/iurcados^  that  is,  the 
hill  of  the  flanged  men,  or  gallows  hill ;  which  name,  how- 
ever, was  derived  from  the  aborigines,  who  did  not  hang 
men,  but  at  this  place  offered  human  sacrifices — the  jolly 
Dominicans  do  not  hang  or  burn  any  one  since  they  were 
forsaken  by  the  inquisition — but  they  levy  contributions  in 
a  manner  that  is  incompatible  with  the  duties  of  any  persons 
calling  themselves  Christian  priests. 

In  conversation  with  Colonel  Baiios,  whose  curiosity  was 
as  active  as  mine,  and  his  intelligence  superior,  accurate,  and 
extensive,  I  spoke  in  admiration  of  the  climate  and  the  po- 
sition of  the  town  ;  and  asked  him  what  the  neighbourhood 
of  Tunja  produced  ?  His  answer  was — "  within  a  circle  of 
sixty  miles,  there  is  nothing  which  this  earth  produces,  that 
we  cannot  produce — we  have  cacao,  coffee,  sugar,  rice,  to- 
bacco, salt,  ananas,  bananas,  plantains,  guavas,  oranges,  limes, 
cocoa  palms,  common  and  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  apios, 
yuccas,  aracatchas,  peas,  beans,  caravanches,  maize  of  a  dozen 
kinds  ;  timber  of  more  than  one  hundred  species,  adapted 
to  every  use ;   we  have  gold  washings,  and  mines  of  lead, 


4,48  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

which  yield  as  much  silver  as  those  of  Mexico  ;  \vc  liavc 
copper,  iron,  and  nitre ;  \vc  have  cattle  oi'  the  finest  breed, 
and  sheep  not  inferior  to  Spanish,  our  horses  are  equal  to 
any  between  the  Andes."  The  enumeration  was  more 
comprehensive,  but  he  concluded — "  There  is  nothing  to 
be  derived  from  earth,  climate,  and  art,  wliicli  may  not  be 
produced  in  this  circle."  I  enquired — and  where  arc  your 
markets  ?  he  took  me  to  the  window,  and  pointed  to  three  dis- 
tant villages  on  one  segment  of  the  circle,  then  to  two  others 
in  an  opposite  direction. — *'  There,  Sciior  Coronel,  is  our 
whole  world  ;  beyond  these  five  villages,  all  the  rest  of  the 
world  is  to  us  as  if  this  circle  was  an  island  in  the  centre  of 
a  boundless  ocean  ;  so  far  our  exchanges  and  our  productions 
go."  The  manner  of  his  expression  betrayed  concern,  and 
shewed  that  he  had  thought  much  about  it  before.  He  pro- 
ceeded to  tell  me,  "  that  this  enigma  w  as  solved  in  the  want 
of  public  or  any  roads ;  it  had  been  the  policy  of  Spain,  not 
to  make  nor  to  mend  roads  ;  and  here  we  are  placed  in  the 
midst  of  the  bounties  of  heaven,  and  riches  of  nature,  said 
he ;  and  though  the  Spaniards  and  the  earthquake  had  spared 
lis,  this  lovely  city  is  going  to  decay ;  we  produce  cotton, 
flax,  hemp,  and  wool  ;  wheat,  barley,  and  maize — but  who 
will  go  to  the  expense,  and  the  labour  of  production,  when 
he  cannot  consume  a  tenth  of  what  he  can  produce,  nor  ex- 
change the  surplus  for  money  or  other  productions.  I  have 
read  in  books  written  by  thoughtless  and  prejudiced  foreign- 
ers, who  never  saw  our  country,  or  never  knew  how  to  look 
at  it,  that  we  are  an  indolent  and  a  lazy  people ;  have  you 
seen,  on  the  way,  any  thing  to  warrant  such  assertions  ? 
It  is  very  true,  nevertheless,  that  we  do  not  think  it  neces- 
sary to  labour  under  an  ardent  sun  during  the  whole  day ; 
nor  to  undergo  such  daily  fatigue,  that  the  remaining  hours 
are  barely  sufficient  to  refresh  us  for  another  day  of  unvaried 
fatigue.  Whether  such  rigour  of  labour  be  necessary  any 
where  or  not,  I  do  not  enquire,  but  it  certainly  would  be 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  449 

preposterous,  where  the  same  field  affords  two,  and  in  other 
places  three  crops  in  the  year,  others  five  crops  in  two  years  ; 
and  any  one  of  those  crops,  greater  than  the  whole  annual 
crops  of  other  countries.  This  fecundity,  which  would  be  an 
apology,  if  any  were  required,  for  not  labouring  without  ceas- 
ing, does  not,  ho^\ever,  produce  the  supposed  effect — look 
at  the  niuscular  forms  of  our  peasantry,  where  are  the  peo- 
ple who  can  undergo  such  journeys,  subsist  upon  such  plain 
food  ?  who  can  tame  the  wild  horse,  or  carry  such  heavy 
burdens  ?"  The  appeal  was  not  in  vain,  every  word  corres- 
ponded with  what  observation  had  already  established  in  my 
opinion. 

Speaking  of  the  state  of  knowledge,  and  the  causes  of  its 
retardment,  it  would  be  indelicate,  having  named  him,  to 
speak  of  his  free  and  liberal  opinions,  under  the  actual  cir- 
cumstances ;  but  he  remarked,  that  the  worthy  Senor 
Soto,  a  representative  in  Congress  from  Tunja,  had  done 
wonders  in  the  way  of  general  education,  and  had  already 
established,  in  the  province,  (now  the  department  of  Boyacca,) 
twenty-nine  schools  for  intuitive  instruction,  upon  the  Lan- 
casterian  principle  ;  and  that  the  intelligence  thus  diffused, 
was  already  beginning  to  be  felt  and  appreciated  ;  he  called 
a  boy  who  was  apparently  idling  in  the  patio,  who  had  no 
shoes  on,  but  slight  trowsers,  a  shirt,  and  a  cotton  roana,  and 
desired  him  to  copy  an  account,  and  see  if  it  was  correct ; 
the  boy,  about  fifteen,  made  no  hesitation,  folded  his  paper, 
tried  his  pen,  and  wrote  it  off  in  an  elegant  hand,  counted 
the  figures,  and  told  him  there  were  some  fractions  omitted  ; 
this  was  one  of  the  first  fruits.  I  saw  another  accidental  oc- 
currence of  the  same  kind,  as  I  was  paying  an  account  at 
a  posada  in  Bogota,  on  the  eve  of  my  departure.  A  youth 
about  the  same  age,  with  a  blanket  roana,  without  hat  or 
shoes,  was  looking  for  employment,  and  sat  on  a  block  in 
the  pulpureia ;  the  pidpero  could  not  make  out  his  own  ac- 
count ;  this  boy  desired  permission  to  look  at  it,  and  make 

57 


490  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

it  out  for  him  ;  throwing  the  fore-skirt  of  his  blanljet  over 
his  shoulder,  he  set  to  work,  and  furniblied  a  bill  and  a  dupli- 
cate, giving  one  to  the  pulperoy  the  otlier  to  the  person  whose 
bill  he  drew.  This  youth,  in  modesty  of  manners,  and  easy 
deportment,  would  have  become  better  apparel,  and  a  more 
respectable  station.  Other  examples  might  be  cited,  but  these 
alone  may  serve,  as  they  were  wholly  unlooked  for,  as  some 
evidence  of  what  the  revolution  has  done,  is  doing,  and 
will  do. 

We  had  a  large  company  in  the  evening,  and  the  table 
gave  evidence  of  that  abundance  and  variety  of  which  the 
worthy  colonel  had  previously  spoken.  When  about  to  re- 
tire, their  importunities  for  our  spending,  at  least,  a  week 
with  them,  were  kind,  indeed,  most  earnest ;  then,  at  least  to 
leave  the  Sehorita  and  her  brother  behind,  and  they  would 
make  a  party  for  Bogota,  when  Bolivar  arrived,  (he  was 
then  hourly,  but  mistakenly,  expected) — we  avoided  offence, 
and  felt  grateful  for  their  kindness. 

We  moved  early  on  the  31st  January,  and,  after  a  march 
of  about  thirty.four  miles,  halted  at  Hato  Vieja,  or  the  old 
Grazing  Ground,  a  section  of  the  same  plain  as  that  of  Bo- 
gota, but  outside  of  the  range,  usually  given  to  designate 
the  plain.  Besides  the  great  plain,  seen  at  one  view,  from 
north  to  south,  the  same  level  surface  extends  largely  and 
over  a  greater  space  than  the  plain  itself.  The  great  plain  I 
have  heard  usually  estimated  at  forty  miles  from  north  to 
south,  on  a  dead  level,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  broad,  in 
that  length ;  but  the  level  surface  embraces  a  much  broader 
space,  and  extends  much  farther  south  and  south-east. 
Humboldt,  from  whom  it  is  not  pleasant  to  differ  in  opinion, 
considers  the  course  of  the  Tunja,  through  the  chasm  of 
Taquendama,  as  the  only  outlet  of  the  plain,  which  he  sup- 
poses to  have  been  a  lake ;  no  doubt  every  appearance  sug- 
gests a  resemblance  of  that  description  ;  but  it  is  a  mistake 
to  say  there  is  no  other  outlet;  the  little  streams  at  tire 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  451 

northern  end  of  the  plains,  and  at  the  continuance  of  the 
plains,  which  are  of  the  same  surface,  have  openings  as  am- 
ple on  the  north-west  and  north-east,  and  little  rivulets  take 
their  course,  in  some  places,  to  the  north  and  the  west,  in- 
stead of  following  the  Funza  south. 

The  level  surface  winds  round  the  northern  mountains 
that  skirt  the  plain ;  a  very  considerable  plain  runs  north 
and  south,  parallel  with  the  great  plain,  and  leads  towards 
Medina  and  the  valleys  of  Albaracin.  The  long  mountain, 
which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  plain,  rises  abruptly,  as  it 
were,  from  the  centre  of  a  great  ocean,  and  giving  to  the 
plain  of  Bogota  the  semblance  of  a  comparatively  small,  long 
gulph  ;  that  mountain  is  the  Zcpiquira  range,  which  is  in- 
sulated at  both  extremes ;  and,  on  its  west  side,  overlooks 
the  vast  range  of  country,  between  the  Mcssa  Grande,  and 
the  sources  of  the  Rio  Negro  are  within  its  circumference ; 
and  the  numerous  streams  which  unite  in  the  lake  of  Fune- 
que,  which  is  the  source  of  the  long  Sarabuta,  which  unites 
with  the  Magdalena. 

The  plain  around  us  at  Hato  Vieja,  was  far  from  display- 
ing any  evidences  of  general  industry,  though  there  were 
numerous  patches  in  good  cultivation ;  the  ranchas  were 
very  numerous,  and  vast  flocks  of  cattle  covered  the  greater 
part  of  the  plain ;  esculent  plants  were  abundant,  as  I  suppose, 
for  the  Bogota,  and  perhaps  the  Tunja  market ;  and  poultry 
must  be  very  numerous,  if  the  incessant  crowing  of  cocks 
in  all  kinds  of  pitches  and  keys,  and  all  night,  be  a  criterion: 
oxen,  horses,  goats,  and  mules,  were  perpetually  marching 
and  countermarching ;  and  the  little  rills  were  no  less  nume- 
rous, wrestling  for  a  passage  over  the  pebbled  beds :  in  the 
midst  of  this  negligent  economy,  the  tropical  plants  and  vines 
here  and  there  formed  canopies  and  shades  for  the  rustic 
cottage  ;  and  at  some  distance,  on  higher  ground,  the  indus- 
trious potter  was  spinning  his  earthenware,  his  chicha  and 


^52  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

guarapa  pots  of  thirty  gallons,  which  are  here  as  celebrated 
in  their  rude  way  as  the  finest  antique  forms  of  Wedge  wood. 
The  first  of  February  we  were  not  ready  till  nine  o'clock : 
we  set  out  for  Chocanta,  midway  between  Tunja  and  Bogota ; 
it  was  also  the  frontier  in  primeval  days,  where  the  chiefs  of 
aboriginal  times  wrestled  for  dominion.  Here  a  great  battle 
was  fought,  in  which  the  zeipa  or  cazique  Michu  of  Tunja, 
and  the  zeipa  Chaquanmachicha  of  Bogota,  both  fell  in  the 
conflict.  It  being  a  military  station,  we  rode  up  to  the  com- 
mandant's quarters  in  the  plaza,  and  sent  in  a  message  that 
strangers  were  at  the  gate.  The  great  man  was  at  dinner, 
and  the  officer  is  placed  in  a  military  post  without  soldiers ; 
where  the  town  appears  as  silent  and  destitute  as  the  sands 
of  Mesopotamia,  what  is  a  commanding  officer  to  do,  if  he 
does  not  show  he  has  power  to  somebody  ?  and  as  nobody 
comes  but  a  passing  stranger,  why  let  them  wait.  And  so  we 
set  to,  cracked  jokes  upon  the  good  order  and  silence  of  this 
garrison  town,  until  it  was  time  to  send  another  message ; 
we  succeeded  no  better ;  and  the  sergeant  was  despatched  to 
see  if  the  civil  was  superior  to  the  military ;  but  the  alcalde 
was  reported  three  miles  out  of  town.  How  delightfully  M. 
MoUien  would  have  worked  upon  this  piece.  At  length  I 
took  some  documents  I  had  about  me,  and  despatched  Vin- 
cente  with  them,  but  Vincente  was  not  admitted,  and  the 
sergeant,  after  brushing  the  dust  from  his  cap,  entered,  sword 
in  hand,  and,  as  the  great  man  had  dined,  we  were  invited  to 
dismount  and  enter,  I  experienced  on  this  occasion  what 
ought  to  be  guarded  against  in  travelling  any  where,  that  it 
was  very  indiscreet  to  travel  so  many  hours  without  eating 
or  drinking,  when  it  might  be  prevented  by  carrying  some 
cold  fowl,  bread,  or  even  good  sweet  plantains ;  and  further, 
that  from  want  of  such  precautions,  especially  after  being 
spoiled  by  the  governors,  and  curates,  and  alcaldes,  all  the 
way  from  Merida  to  Pipa,  the  best  good  temper  may  become 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  4)53 

dissatisfied  at  being  kept  in  the  open  air  a  good  long  hour. 
The  bubaltern  who  came  to  the  door  on  this  occasion,  on 
seeing  us,  turned  abruptly  round,  and  disappeared,  and  ap- 
peared again  :  had  there  been  any  alternative,  or  a  good  open 
shed,  in  which  we  might  sit  down  secure  from  sunshine,  I 
think  we  should  have  galloped  off  before  this  time,  and  com- 
menced eating  from  our  travelling  establishment ;  but  the 
place,  in  its  silence  and  the  absence  of  population,  resembled 
Balbec,  or  any  other  place  not  wholly  in  ruins.  Though 
not  perfectly  satisfied,  we  marched  in,  and  without  disturb- 
ing the  passivity  of  the  great  man,  whose  attachment  to  his 
seat,  and  the  gathering  of  himself  up  on  his  couch,  led  me  to 
suspect  he  must  be  of  the  pure  Saracenic  breed;  the  uniformed 
hidalgo  remained  on  his  hind  legs  a  la  Turque,  when  at 
least  the  appearance  of  a  handsome  young  lady  might  have 
revoked  his  distaste  to  politeness  and  the  laws  of  hospitality. 
His  manners  appeared  to  me  (more,  I  suppose,  because  my 
stomach  was  craving) — his  manners  appeared  rude,  and  per- 
haps the  abruptness  of  his  questions  would  have  been  tole- 
rable— in  Morocco ;  but,  though  well  disposed  to  say  nothing, 
he  was  answered,  not  without  courtesy,  for  that  is  due  to 
one's  self,  but  in  the  fewest  words  possible.  Among  other 
questions,  he  asked  how  we  came  from  North  America.  I 
answered,  in  a  corvette  now  belonging  to  the  government. 
The  corvette  brought  his  hitherto  immoveable  legs  to  the 
floor,  and  he  entered  into  a  descant  on  the  expenses  of  naval 
equipments  and  expeditions,  and,  I  suppose,  suspecting  I  was 
one  of  the  concerned  going  to  Bogota  for  payment,  he  said, 
that  a  frigate  would  cost  more  than  a  whole  army ;  that  the 
government  was  spending  the  money  with  which  they  ought 
to  pay  the  soldiers,  and,  in  fine,  that  naval  extravagance  would 
ruin  the  country.  As  this  was  not  for  me  to  discuss,  I  said 
only  "  humph  I"  and  he  asked  if  that  was  not  a  just  idea. 
I  simply  replied,  that  I  did  not  possess  the  data  which  would 
justify  me  in  forming  any  opinion.     At  this  moment  the 


454  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

alcalde,  who  had  been  reported  several  leagues  out  of  town, 
appeared,  issuing  from  an  inner  apartment,  and  presented 
himself  to  the  hidalgo,  saying  it  was  by  mistake  he  was  re- 
ported absent !  We  solicited  quarters,  and  mules  for  the  next 
morning,  made  our  lowest  bow,  and  followed  tlie  alcalde 
across  the  great  square,  where  good  quarters  indeed  were 
given  us.  Reflecting  on  the  hospitality  we  had  experienced 
from  the  moment  wc  entered  Merida  up  to  this  place,  I  never 
could  conjecture  or  account  for  the  incivility  of  this  man  in 
office ;  and  1  could  not  but  exult  in  the  reflection  that  the 
country  must  be  fortunate,  indeed,  which,  in  a  long  line  of  a 
thousand  miles,  has  so  few  in  public  stations  who  know  not 
what  best  becomes  a  public  oflftcer,  or  is  most  reputable  to 
his  country  and  government ;  yet  this  man,  with  all  his  des- 
garganillada  y  desemejanzay  may  have  some  apology  at  home 
as  powerful  as  our  long  fasting  :  however,  we  ate  and  slept 
as  if  nothing  had  happened,  and  were  laughing  in  the  morning 
of  Saturday  over  our  chocolate  at  the  past  day*s  adventure, 
when  a  corps  of  smart  horses  were  drawn  up  before  our 
quarters  instead  of  mules ;  which,  as  their  gait  is  more  lively, 
and  action  more  rapid,  we  found  agreeable  as  a  variety, 
though,  in  the  end,  much  more  fatiguing  than  the  unvarying 
step  and  motion  of  the  mule.  *'  Talking  of  horses,"  we  saw 
none  shod  but  at  Caracas,  Valentia,  and  Bogota. 


455 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Halt  on  the  plain  of  Bogota — Suesca,  remarkable  bluff— Zeplquira  Caxita — Ri- 
ver  and  handsome  bridge  of  Sopo — Funza  river — Hacienda  of  the  Vice-Presi- 
dent— halt  within  three  miles  of  Bogota — proceed  to  the  city — kind  reception 
by  the  Secretary — lodged  in  the  Plaza  San  Francisco — generous  hospitality — 
meet  Col.  Todd,  American  Minister — the  approach  to  Bogota  described — 
hedges  of  roses  in  perpetual  bloom — appearances  of  the  city  on  first  entrance 
— its  origin  and  some  account  of — its  public  buildings  and  institutions — the 
Plaza  Real  a  great  market-place — particulars — and  of  the  Calle  Real — the  ri- 
vers— customs — incident  to  absence  of  arts — and  civilization  under  Spanish 
policy. 

Our  march  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  February  was  agree- 
able ;  the  horses  provided  were  good-tempered,  manageable, 
and  easy  paced.  We  had  yet  to  pass  over  a  very  spacious  but 
irregular  winding  plain  from  Hato  Vieja,  giving  only  a  fore- 
taste of  the  most  extensive  plain  of  Bogota,  which  we  be- 
came now  impatient  to  reach.  But  keen  appetites,  and  the 
action  of  our  horses,  had  rendered  food  and  repose  requisite, 
so  we  turned  off  the  path  into  the  plain,  and  halted  at  a  posa- 
da  to  inquire  for  some  wine,  and  for  accommodation  ;  there 
was  no  wine,  and  we  had  recourse  to  an  oriental  sherbet  of 
oranges  sliced,  with  some  cinnamon  and  sugar,  infused  in  fine 
pure  water,  which  made  a  beverage  perfectly  refreshing  and 
grateful.  This  posada  was  on  a  skirt  of  the  plain  which  leads 
to  Medina,  to  the  east  and  rear  of  Bogota  ;  our  track  led 
across  one  of  the  numerous  and  ample  streams  which  pay  tri- 
bute to  the  Funza,  over  which  we  passed  upon  a  platform  of 
trees  stretched  across  the  stream,  crossed  and  covered  with 
faggots,  and  with  a  surface  of  earth  and  gravel  beaten  firm. 
We  wound  to  the  north,  north-west,  west,  and  south-west, 
and  finally  south,  on  a  path  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  of  sin- 
gular appearance  and  materials.  It  was  the  northern  extre- 
mity of  the  ridge  of  the  mountain  to  the  east  of  Bogota,  and 


466  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

which  forms  the  cast  side  of  the  plain,  of  which  the  ridge  of 
Zcpiquira,  some  fifteen  to  sixteen  miles  broad,  forms  the 
west  side,  and  whose  northern  extremity  terminates  on  the 
plain  in  the  same  manner,  leaving  the  level  of  the  plain  open 
and  exposed  as  far  as  the  vision  can  distinguish.  This 
mountain  bluff,  of  which  I  have  overlooked  the  name,  round 
which  we  travelled,  presented  to  the  north  an  immense  mass 
of  detached  and  flat  slabs  of  pudding-stone  of  very  consider- 
able magnitude,  lying  in  such  a  disordered  heap,  as  if  re- 
cently discharged  out  of  some  vehicle  or  sack,  sustained  one 
by  the  other  on  those  angles  or  ends  of  the  fragments  which 
appeared  beneath  them,  without  any  intervening  earth  or  ver- 
dure, but  here  and  there  on  some  of  the  vast  slabs  a  va- 
grant tuft  of  sycophantic  moss,  hanging  loose  and  impending, 
to  appearance  ready  to  slide  and  carry  destruction  on  the  path 
below ;  but  they  had  stood  in  that  direction  and  state  time 
immemorial,  as  if  they  had  been  an  unfinished  heap  which 
the  Titans  had  cast  there  in  an  effort  to  close  in  the  plain, 
and  cut  off  the  skirt  over  which  we  had  travelled. 

As  soon  as  we  had  passed  this  rude  promontory,  the  im- 
mense plain  of  Bogota  opened  before  us,  its  southern  extre- 
mity too  distant  for  distinct  perception.  The  shaggy  side  of 
the  Zepiquira  range,  lying  also  north  and  south,  formed  the 
west  side  of  the  plain,  and  so  continues  full  forty  miles,  till 
it  breaks  abruptly  opposite,  or  due  west  of  Bogota,  leaving 
the  verdant  plains  continued  south  and  west  exposed. 

The  road  that  had  been  most  commonly  travelled,  formerly 
led  due  west  across  the  plain,  and  round  the  bluff  of  Zepi- 
quira, as  the  salt-mines  there  rendered  it  a  rendezvous  for 
mules,  and  thereby  accommodated  the  traveller ;  but  it  made 
the  distance  to  be  travelled  longer  by  seven  or  eight  leagues. 
A  clergyman,  whom  we  had  fallen  into  conversation  with  at 
the  posada,  advised  us  to  take  the  route  on  the  east  side  of 
the  valley  by  Suesca,  and,  as  he  was  himself  going  the  same 
way,  we  adopted  his  counsel,  and  passed  by  tlie  way  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  467 

Caxita.  We  had  passed  but  a  few  miles  on  this  route  when 
we  crossed  the  neat  built  bridge  over  the  river  Sopo,  one  of 
the  numerous  tributaries  of  the  Funza,  which  was  now  visi- 
ble in  many  of  its  numerous  and  long  meanders  moving  slug- 
gishly across  and  athwart  the  ample  plain,  the  river  being 
from  sixty  to  a  hundred  feet  wide,  and  evidently  of  depth 
sufficient  to  bear  boats  of  considerable  burden ;  but  not  a 
boat,  nor  man,  not  even  a  canoe  did  I  sec  on  the  Funza  at 
any  time  during  my  stay.  After  ambling  along  on  the  slop- 
ing skirt  of  mountain,  about  thirty  feet  generally  above  the 
plain,  a  well-built  dry  stone  wall  attracted  our  notice,  and 
formed  the  side  of  the  road  between  us  and  the  plain  for  se- 
veral miles  ;  a  hacienda  in  the  midst  of  a  grove  of  lofty  trees 
was  dibtinct  to  the  west  of  us,  and  when  we  had  reached 
nearly  the  southern  extremity  of  the  stone  wall,  a  spacious 
door,  surmounted  by  a  handsome  pediment,  attracted  our 
attention  ;  on  the  space  below  the  cornice  was  the  following 
inscription,  handsomely  painted  : 

HACIENDA  DE  LOS  AMIGOS 
DE  LA   GENERAL  SAN   ANDER,  1819. 

That  is, — The  country-seat  of  the  friends  of  General  St.  An- 
der,  1819. — As  the  distance  of  the  hacienda  from  the  road 
was  too  great,  we  did  not  use  the  privilege  of  hospitality 
indicated  by  the  inscription,  as  it  would  have  retarded  our 
arrival  a  day  longer ;  and,  as  our  stock  of  provisions  was 
now  reduced  to  a  single  day's  subsistence,  we  moved  on 
to  a  village  within  three  miles  of  the  city  ;  and  as  there  are 
no  hotels,  lodging-houses,  or  taverns  in  Bogota,  strangers 
must  either  hire  a  house  and  furnish  it,  (if  possible,)  I  deem- 
ed it  advisable  to  leave  my  young  fellow  travellers  at  this 
place  in  the  morning,  and  proceed  to  the  city  with  the  ser- 
geant, to  provide  the  necessary  accommodations.  At  eleven 
o'clock,   on  the  third,  the   sergeant  leading,  I  entered  the 

58 


458  VISIT  TO   COLOMHIA. 

city ;  and  as  the  concerns  I  had  charge  of  were  with  the  gov- 
ernment, and  as  1  had  some  friends  in  the  administration,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  the  government  house,  where  I  was  received  by  the 
secretary  of  state  with  the  most  unaffected  kindness,  and  leaving 
me  no  time  to  talk  of  any  thing  else,  led  me  across  the  Great 
Plaza,  and  placed  me  under  the  care  of  one  of  his  friends. 
The  secretary  was  much  surprised   to  see   me  at  Bogota, 
and  I  was  not  less  pleased  to  find  him,  after  all  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  the  revolution,  compensated   for  the  privations  he 
had  suffered,  and   during  whieh  I  had  known  him  at  Phila- 
delphia, now  happy  in  the  freedom  of  his  country,  and  full 
of  well-merited  honours  and  public  love — without  any  alter- 
ation in  the  simplicity  and  softness  of  manners,  than  when 
he  was  in  adversity.     "  Is   it  possible  ?  Colonel — why  did 
you  not  apprise  me  of  your  coming   hither  before — that  I 
might    provide    accommodations — come    along" — and    he 
hurried  me  along,  talking  all  the  way,  till  he  met  a  friend, 
and  said — "  take  care  of  my  friend  and  his  family,  and  oblige 
me."     He  took  leave,  and  I  proceeded  along  the  Calle  Real 
to  the  Plaza   San  Francisco,  where  I  was  placed  at  my  ease 
at  once,  by  the  hospitable  owner ;  the  sergeant  was  dispatch- 
ed for  our  party,  and   they  were  with   us  by  three  o'clock, 
just  in  time  to  partake  of  an  elegant  entertainment,  at  which 
we  found  ourselves,   before  we  rose  from  table,  surrounded 
by  a  number  of  old  friends,   and  new  acquaintances  who 
gave  us  their  assurances  of  kindness,  which  we  found  uni- 
formly realised   during  our  stay,  and  of  which  the  remem- 
brance is  not  likely  to  fade. 

The  novelty  of  a  young  lady  from  North  America,  having 
accomplished  a  journey  over  the  Eastern  Cordilleras,  a  route 
esteemed  difficult,  laborious,  and  hazardous  for  soldiers; 
together  with  the  good  wishes  of  those  members  of  the  go- 
vernment to  whom  I  had  been  known  personally,  or  by  re- 
putation, during  the  revolution,  had  made  our  residence  an 
interesting  resort  of  the  principal  ladies  and  gentlemen  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  459 

Bogota  ;  a  public  entertainment,  and  the  return  of  visits, 
led  to  the  nmost  flattering  intercourse  and  intimacies,  which 
made  our  time  agreeable.  While  I  attended  to  the  aflfairs 
which  carried  me  to  the  capital,  my  young  companions  had 
friends  of  their  own  age  to  occupy  their  time  and  gratify 
curiosity. 

The  minister  of  the  United  States,  Colonel  Todd,  was, 
however,  among  the  first  to  visit  his  country  folks,  and  we 
owed  not  a  little  of  the  gratifications  we  enjoyed  in  the  capi- 
tal of  Colombia,  to  his  kindness  ;  as  well  as  to  that  of  his 
secretary,  Mr.  R.  Adams.  It  would  be  gratifying  to  enu- 
merate the  kind  and  hospitable  attentions  we  experienced ; 
but,  as  it  would  be  ungenerous  to  omit  many,  if  any  were 
particularised,  and  all  would  be  too  uninteresting  and  nume- 
rous to  state,  I  prefer  not  naming  any  specially  ;  I  can  truly 
say,  that  I  never  experienced  more  kindness,  nor  found  so- 
ciety where  the  females  were  more  amiable  and  ingenuous, 
nor  the  men  more  kind  and  liberal. 

As  the  journey  is  now  so  far  completed,  it  may  be  proper 
to  fill  up  the  views  which  the  course  along  the  plain  pre- 
sented ;  and  to  follow,  in  the  same  unstudied  way,  with  some 
conversational  account  of  the  city,  its  institutions,  and  such 
other  objects  as  belong  to  the  Visit  to  Colombia. 

The  approach  to  Bogota  from  the  north,  after  entering 
the  plain,  is  by  no  means  on  a  direct  line ;  the  plain  appears 
indeed  as  flat  as  the  ocean  in  a  calm,  but  its  sides  are  une- 
qual and  often  encroached  upon  by  the  mountains,  that 
form  its  east  and  west  bounds,  which  here  and  there  project 
forward  in  irregular  bluffs  or  long  slopes,  and  again  recede, 
leaving  large  recesses  at  the  foot  of  the  steeps.  The  road, 
usually  lying  above  the  plain  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  fol- 
lows the  diverging  line  of  the  mountain  base ;  towards  which 
the  sluggish  Funza  occasionally  winds  its  way,  and  again 
wheels  round  in  an  opposite  direction.  The  road  thus 
winding  and  elevated,  is  generally  dry,  but  often  rough  and 


460  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

rocky.  Several  villages  are  planted  along  the  route,  of 
greater  or  less  poj)ulation  ;  sometimes  a  single  rancho  stands 
in  a  position  convenient  for  the  charge  of  one  or  other  of 
those  immense  flocks  of  cattle  which  graze  ujx)n  the  plain, 
and  whose  apparently  countlesss  numbers  would  seem  to 
defy  appropriation.  Yet  these  flocks  are  private  property, 
and  no  difficulty  is  found  in  selecting  them  when  necessary. 
It  is  not  until  the  traveller  is  within  about  seven  miles  of 
the  city,  on  this  route,  that  he  gains  the  first  glimpse  of  it. 
A  vast  limb  of  the  Sierra  Albaracin,  thrusts  its  bold  blufl^ 
some  hundred  yards  into  the  plain,  ai»d  screens  the  city  from 
the  view  of  the  approaching  visitor.  Emerging  from  the 
cove  formed  by  the  north  side  of  this  bluff",  and  passing 
round  its  base,  tiie  dome  of  the  Cathedral  and  the  spires  of 
several  otlier  churches,  give  a  very  imposing  first  glance  of 
the  capital,  which  appears  placed  on  a  slope  more  elevated, 
very  distinctly  marked,  and  relieved  by  the  dark  face  of  the 
lofty,  bleak,  and  steep  mountains,  immediately  at  the  feet  of 
which  it  stands.  The  city  stands,  in  fiict,  in  front  of  one  of 
those  vast  fissures  or  openings,  which  I  have  before  remark- 
ed, as  constantly  characteristic  of  the  Cordillera.  The  sides 
of  this  vast  cleft  are  so  steep  as  not  to  be  accessible,  and 
on  tlie  summit  of  each  side  is  fantastically  erected  a  church 
— one  named  the  Mrgin  of  IMont^errat,  the  other  the  Virgin 
of  Guadalupe,  which  present  very  picturesque  objects  to 
the  stranger  from  the  distance. 

About  four  miles  from  the  city,  some  farms  and  gardens 
appropriated  to  the  production  of  vegetables  for  the  market 
are  seen,  with  neat  cottages  carefully  whitened,  which  ap- 
pear in  brighter  brilliancy,  relieved  by  the  richness  of  the  sur- 
rounding verdure  ;  a  long  suburb  of  detached  dwellings  of 
various  denominations,  some  small,  and  others  spacious, 
mixed  with  lofty  trees,  dispersed  and  in  clumps  ;  while  the 
side  of  the  Sierra,  on  the  left,  presents  an  alternation  of  naked 
rocks,  ravines,  cliffs,  and  clumps  and  groups  of  trees   and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  461 

thicket ;  through  uhich  crystal  rills  gush  into  rude  channels 
by  which  art  leads  their  streams  for  the  uses  of  irrigation  ; 
spacious  and  well-tilled  gardens  now  occupy  broader  spaces  ; 
patches  of  edible  plants,  and  roots,  shrubbery,  hedges  of  flow- 
ering shrubs,  and  parasites  on  stages  of  trellis,  and  all  the 
variety  of  tropical  products  which  flourish  in  a  climate  that 
is  neither  cold  nor  hot,  but  uniformly  averaging  68°  of  Fah- 
renheit, rarely  ascending  or  descending  five  degrees.  About 
three  miles  from  the  city,  the  road,  which  was  a  rugged 
maze  on  the  scarp  of  the  mountain  base,  is  superseded  by 
a  new  road  constructed  upon  the  fashion  of  our  modern  me- 
thods. It  is  straight,  about  forty  feet  broad,  a  convex  surface 
of  about  twenty  inches  elevation  in  the  centre  above  the  sides 
— and  flanked  its  whole  length  by  a  ditch  of  sloping  sides 
and  four  feet  broad  ;  beyond  the  ditches,  on  the  banks,  rise 
thick-set  hedges  of  rose-trees,  of  two  or  three  species,  and 
whose  perfume  delights  and  warns  the  traveller  long  before 
he  discovers  whence  they  proceed.  The  mile  remotest  from 
the  city  was  yet  incomplete,  but  the  two  nearest  miles  were 
in  a  good  style,  and  covered  with  the  natural  rubble  of  the 
ravines  adjacent ;  no  country  in  the  world  has  worse  roads, 
none  has  better,  or  more  ample  and  costless  materials,  and 
no  country  on  earth  stands  more  in  need  of  them  ;  the  great 
secret  so  obvious  to  any  man  of  discernment,  by  which  the 
lands  of  the  desert  may  be  made  valuable,  that  of  making 
roads  and  canals,  has  not  yet  become  a  measure  of  poli- 
cy, public  economy,  or  finance,  in  Colombia ;  but  this  will 
not  appear  so  extraordinary,  considering  the  perversity  with 
which  the  policy  of  Spain  had  systematically  opposed  every 
species  of  internal  improvement ;  I  recollect,  when  in  the 
United  States,  with  so  many  superior  advantages  as  to  social 
concerns,  and  it  is  little  more  than  twenty  years  ago,  when  I 
have  been  spoken  of  as  a  hair-brained  speculatist,  for  publishing 
and'pointing  out  the  importance  of  public  roads  and  canals, 
and  only  one  road,  that  of  Lancaster,  was  then  attempted  upon 


46S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

permanent  principles.  If  Colombia  pursues  the  policy  of  im- 
provement, with  as  much  effect  as  she  has  established  liberal 
institutions,  there  is  no  possibility  of  anticipating  the  prosper- 
ity of  which  that  country  is  susceptible.  This  road,  adjacent 
to  Bogota,  is  a  good  specimen  of  that  style  which  is  con- 
structed with  broken  stone.  As  the  country  is  unaffected 
by  frost  or  snow,  and  stone  and  gravel  every  where  to  be 
had  without  purchase,  the  whole  cost  would  be  only  that  of 
the  wages  of  skilful  directors  and  labour;  and  more  faithful 
and  hardy  labourers  are  no  where  to  be  found. 

The  entrance  in  this  direction  to  Bogota  is  not  so  imposing 
or  striking  as  from  the  causeway  on  the  west  side.  My  guide 
did  not  lead  me  the  whole  length  of  this  handsome  road,  but 
shortened  the  distance  by  an  inclination  to  the  left,  and  after 
passing  some  narrow  streets,  entered  upon  an  open  but  irre- 
gularly formed  area,  well  paved,  in  which  several  streets  cen- 
tre, and  a  fine  stone  bridge  gave  a  better  presage  of  a  fine  city. 
This  bridge  crosses  the  stream,  which  is  called  a  river,  Rio 
San  Francisco,  and  was  at  this  time  a  deep  unsightly  ravine, 
with  a  very  shallow  spreading  stream  ;  it  has  its  source  in  the 
crevice  of  the  Sierra  to  the  rear  or  eastward  of  the  city.  This 
area  and  some  of  the  streets  running  west,  are  the  usual  pro- 
menades of  the  citizens  in  this  quarter  ;  and  the  streets  being 
very  clean,  they  make  a  favourable  impression.  The  bridge 
here  is  of  very  excellent  workmanship,  and  I  remarked  a 
structure  of  well- wrought  stone-w^ork  on  the  area,  which  I^at 
first  supposed  to  be  a  fountain,  but  it  may  have  been  a  mo- 
nument of  some  description  ;  the  workmanship  of  the  mould- 
ings struck  me  on  the  passing  glance  as  being  executed  in  a 
good  style.  From  this  lower  bridge  looking  along  the  ravine 
to  the  eastward,  another  bridge  was  indistinctly  seen  higher 
up,  which  I  soon  after  found  was  a  continuation  of  the  Calle 
Real,  or  principal  street,  and  north  of  which  stands  the  Plaza 
San  Francisco. 

The  streets  I  now  passed  along  were  narrow  like  those  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  463 

Caracas.  The  houses  more  generally  of  two  stories  high 
than  at  Caracas ;  but  not  so  lofty  as  at  Caracas,  Valencia,  Me- 
rida,  Cucuta,  or  Tunja  ;  but  more  spacious  than  at  Truxillo, 
or  Pamplona.  I  had  felt  on  my  first  entrance  some  disap- 
pointment, from  having  given  credit  to  the  descriptions  of 
some  books,  in  which,  perhaps,  the  exaggeration  was  rather 
in  the  idiomatic  use  of  terms  than  in  intention.  A  translation 
of  a  Persian  or  a  Turkish  narrative  literally  would  be,  to  men 
accustomed  to  the  use  of  language  in  expressing  ideas  ex- 
actly, a  series  of  hyperboles ;  the  Spanish  idiom  partakes  of 
this  orientalism  ;  and  M.  Mollien's  work  proves  that  the 
French  admits  of  this  species  of  caricature.  Some  books  that 
I  have  read  make  the  streets  of  Caracas,  as  well  as  Bogota, 
forty  feet  wide  :  the  widest  street  in  either  does  not  exceed 
twenty-five  feet ;  and  in  Bogota  the  only  street  of  that  breadth 
is  the  Calle  Real,  all  the  rest  are  about  twenty  feet.  Bogota, 
as  well  as  Caracas,  is,  notwithstanding,  sufficiently  handsome 
without  any  aid  of  extravagance  in  drawing. 

Like  M.  MoUien,  when  I  was  led  to  the  residence  of  the 
executive,  I  experienced  some  disappointment,  because  I 
had  read  in  some  book  of  the  viceroy'' s  palace  ;  without  this 
previous  impression,  the  house  would  have  appeared  most 
respectable :  but  there  was  more  than  the  misnomer,  there 
had  been  a  dwelling  called  the  palace  of  the  viceroy,  but  it 
was  on  the  south  side  of  the  square  ;  the  house  substituted 
for  it  stands  on  the  west  side.  The  original  palace  was  de- 
stroyed during  the  revolution,  as  the  city  was  exposed  to 
assault,  taken  and  retaken  six  or  seven  times. 

At  the  first  conquest,  the  Spaniards  found  in  all  parts  of 
America  spacious  and  orderly  cities  and  towns  already  esta- 
blished, and  generally  preferred  their  occupation  to  the  tardy 
process  of  founding  new  cities  or  towns;  the  aboriginal  people 
usually  selected  the  positions  that  were  best  adapted  for  ac- 
commodation, health,  and  comfort,  near  pure  water,  and 
fertility.     This  was  the  case  in  Mexico  and  Cuzco,  but  the 


464  VISIT   TO    COLOMBIA. 

chief  place  of  these  regions  lay  farther  east  of  the  banks  of 
the  Funza. 

The  city  of  Bogota  is  of  Spanish  foundation,  and  derives 
its  name  from  a  native  village,  which  still  exists  about  ten 
miles  to  the  west  of  the  present  capital.  The  first  Spanish 
invaders  were  received  in  a  friendly  manner  by  the  natives, 
and  establislicd  themselves  at  this  village,  which  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  an  extensive  marsh,  which  still  remains, 
but  appears  to  have  been  then  a  lake,  it  was  found  unhealthy 
for  European  constitutions.  Ximenes  de  Quesada,  who  is 
denominated  the  conqueror  of  this  country,  sought  a  position 
more  salubrious,  and  selected  a  spacious  sloping  plain  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains  of  Albaracin,  one  of  the  lowest  and  the 
most  eastern  of  the  ridges  of  the  Paramos  of  Chingasa.  The 
choice  made  was  judicious;  a  constant  and  ample  stream  of 
limpid  water  flows  from  the  crevice  that  intersects  the  ridge 
to  its  base.  This  city  was  founded  in  1538,  and  the  great 
plaza,  which  is  about  a  mile  east  from  the  steep  side  of  the 
mountain,  is  in  north  latitude  4"  36'  30",  and  west  of  Green- 
wich 78°  30',  and  8702  or  8706  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean,  for  it  has  been  so  ascertained  by  actual  measurements. 
It  was  said  to  have  been  laid  out  by  the  founder  into  twelve 
manzanas,  or  blocks,  of  about  three  hundred  feet  on  every 
face,  for  dwelling  houses ;  with  streets  crossing  north  and 
south,  east  and  west,  the  broadest  of  which,  the  Calle  Real^ 
is  no  more  than  twenty-five  feet  broad,  and  the  other  streets 
generally  twenty  feet,  some  narrower.  Those  manzanas, 
however,  were  extended,  as  the  population  augmented,  to 
twenty-five  north  and  south,  and  thirteen  east  and  west ; 
and,  as  I  was  told,  and  which  is  very  probable,  that  before 
the  revolution,  the  manzanas  extended  to  295.  It  would  be 
a  useless  labour  to  attempt  any  statistical  enquiries,  as  they 
could  not  be  ascertained  with  exactness  at  this  period;  a 
great  part  of  the  city  was  abandoned  during  the  revolution, 
much  more  desolated  by  the  Spaniards,  and  repeated  pro- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  4R5 

scriptions,  barbarous  massacres,  and  executions,  expelled 
numbers  of  the  survivors ;  and  much  still  lies  in  ruins.  The 
inhabitants  were  computed  in  1823,  as  fluctuating  between 
35  and  38000  ;  and  the  activity  that  was  already  perceived  in 
the  suburbs  countenances  the  returning  growth  of  the  popu- 
lation. To  the  rear  of  the  northern  end  of  the  city,  above  the 
crevice  formed  in  the  ridge,  presides  on  the  crests  of  the  steep 
summits  a  striking  evidepce  of  the  extravagance  and  aspiring 
power  of  the  church.  On  the  steep  verge  of  the  northern 
peak  of  this  crevice  is  a  church  called  A*.  Senora  cie  Mont- 
serrat;  and  separated  by  the  chasm  on  the  opposite  peak,  ano- 
ther named  A*.  Senora  de  Guadalupe.  Strange  caprice  which 
established  houses  for  purposes  of  religious  worship  on  steeps 
so  inaccessible  to  human  feet,  and  to  which  the  ascent  must 
be  at  the  same  time  circuitous,  tedious,  and  dangerous.  Their 
aspect  from  the  plain  and  the  city  at  their  feet,  is  that  of 
overhanging  castles,  such  as  in  the  da}s  of  feudality  were 
selected  by  lordly  chieftains  to  deter  rather  than  to  invite  ap- 
proach or  charitable  communion.  There  was  something  of 
this  lordly  spirit  in  the  selection  of  those  sites ;  they  were 
beacons  which  told  the  surrounding  vassals  the  power  which 
predominated,  and  the  discipline  ot  penance  in  religious  ser- 
vice had  here  a  ground  to  put  the  pious  to  his  travail,  and 
teach  obedience.  These  churches  have  no  permanent  resi- 
dents, but  some  poor  sacristans,  whose  disciplinary  habits 
have  been  formed  to  these  bleak  and  chilly  solitudes.  On 
certain  festivals  religious  celebrations  take  place  at  one  or  the 
other,  to  which  some  few  whose  zeal  is  ardent  repair,  to  wash 
away  their  sins,  work  out,  if  not  their  spiritual  salvation,  at  least 
impose  upon  the  world  their  temporal  beatification,  to  secure 
credit  with  the  world  they  belong  to.  It  is  only  in  the  ex- 
travagance of  the  positions  selected  for  these  "  sacred  dramas," 
and  those  "  studied  acts,"  that  they  differ  from  "  performers" 
of  other  countries,  where  there  is  more  and  growing  hypo- 
crisy than  in  Colombia,  where  it  is  really  on  the  decline  ;  for, 

59 


466  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

by  the  best  accounts,  those  ambitious  rivals  of  Babylonian 
eminence,  which  were  in  the  foretime  sometimes  crowded, 
now  seldom  collect  half  a  score  for  a  congregation.  I  notice 
these  matters  the  more  particularly,  because  there  prevails 
much  misapprehension  in  other  countries  concerning  church 
affairs  in  Colombia,  where,  among  those  classes  which  have 
had  the  benefit  of  a  good  or  a  moderate  education,  there  is 
not  half  so  much  superstition  and  much  less  hypocrisy,  than 
in  countries  more  reformedy  and  who  claim  to  be  the  most 
religious  people  in  the  world. 

There  is  an  access  to  each  of  those  tabernacles,  by  steep 
and  winding  ways,  over  paths  precarious  and  toilsome — in 
visiting  the  country  seat  of  the  Liberator,  at  the  foot  of  the 
steep,  I  had  sufficient  experience  to  satisfy  what  little  curi- 
osity the  novelty  of  those  places  had  stirred  within  me  ;  and 
some  of  my  acquaintances,  who  had  taken  the  pains,  satisfied 
me  that  the  object  was  not  sufficient  to  compensate  the  toil. 
From  the  crevice  which  cuts  the  mountain  across  from  top 
to  bottom,  and  leaving  the  gaping  chasm  with  the  black 
shelving  sides  standing  awfully  apart,  beneath  those  beacons 
of  a  darker  age,  an  ample  and  never-failing  stream  issues  to 
the  westward.  Its  current  is  at  first  a  single  volume,  and, 
from  the  aspect  of  the  rocks  which  occupy  the  space  through 
which  it  formerly  flowed  single  and  powerful,  it  is  evident, 
that  it  formed  a  torrent  of  great  power.  By  whose  sagacity 
and  good  sense  this  rich  fountain  was  disarmed  of  its  vio- 
lence, and  diverted  into  separate  and  widely  diffused  cur- 
rents, I  could  not  learn,  as  happens  often  to  the  benefactors 
of  the  human  species ;  by  drawing  off  a  part  into  a  separate 
channel,  and  leading  it  along  the  side  ofthe  mountain  south- 
ward, while  the  other  half  flowed  in  its  accustomed  chan- 
nel, it  pays  tribute  to  the  reservoir,  constructed  in  such  a 
position  as  to  supply  the  numerous  public  fountains,  which 
ornament  and  supply  with  limpid  water  the  whole  city,  and 
cleanse  by  never-ceasing  rivulets  the  whole  of  the  numerous 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  467 

Streets,  which  incline  from  the  upper  side  of  the  city  to  the 
plain,  and  discharge  their  currents  into  the  Funza.  The 
two  streams,  which  cross  the  city  at  about  the  centre  of  its 
two  parts,  are  denominated  rivers ;  the  Rio  San  Francisco  is 
the  northernmost,  and  occupies  the  ravine  passed  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  city  from  the  east ;  the  southern  stream  is  de- 
nominated Rio  San  Augustin,  from  the  two  principal  monas- 
teries of  that  order  near  which  it  flows.  There  are  some 
handsome  stone  bridges  over  this  stream  also ;  there  are  five, 
in  all,  over  the  two  streams,  and  of  excellent  structure. 
These  rivers  divide  the  city  into  three  sections.  The  ra- 
vines, through  which  they  pass,  have  not  obtained  any  care 
or  embellishment  from  taste  or  art ;  and  as  the  torrent,  when 
its  force  was  embodied  in  one  volume,  made  terrible  ravage 
on  the  friable  clay  soil  through  which  it  cut  its  bed,  there 
possibly  may  be  occasional  floods,  which  would  render  cm- 
bellishment  and  labour  waste. 

Very  near  the  issue  of  the  \\^aters  from  the  gorge  of  the 
mountains  on  the  north  side  of  the  stream,  the  President 
Bolivar  has  a  very  tastily  constructed  pavilion,  with  sufficient 
accommodations  for  his  suite,  and  a  handsome  rivulet,  which 
has  been  drawn  aside  from  the  current,  supplies  the  house  with 
water  for  domestic  uses  ;  entering  the  rear  of  the  apartments 
at  the  north  end,  it  furnishes  basons  and  the  reservoirs  of  a 
very  commodious  bathing-house.  The  pavilion  has  a  saloon, 
an  audience  room,  a  parlour,  a  spacious  dining-hall,  and  a 
retiring  parlour ;  a  chapel  occupies  the  north  wing,  with  an 
altar ;  and  several  suites  of  rooms  are  all  under  one  roof. 
The  garden  which  surrounds  it  is  not  large,  but  sufficient 
for  the  pleasures  of  a  single  retired  family,  and  is  supplied 
with  all  the  curious  and  beautiful  shrubs  and  plants  to  which 
the  temperature  is  not  adverse.  The  place,  though  over- 
looking the  city,  is  solitary,  but  it  is  kept  in  good  repair ;  it 
would  however  have  fewer  visiters  if  it  belonged  to  a  less 
respected  personage.  The  European  usage  of  paying  to  see 
the  show  affords  the  garden- keeper  a  small  sum. 


468  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Art  and  wisdom  has  not  halted  at  the  division  and  distri- 
bution of  the  great  current.  About  half  a  mile  lower  down, 
but  above  the  summit  of  the  cathedral,  there  is  constructed 
a  very  fine  reservoir  of  excellent  masonry,  and  covered  in, 
which  receives  the  pure  water  of  the  mountain  flood.  From 
this  reservoir,  the  fountains  which  ornament  and  conduce  to 
the  salubriousness  of  the  city  are  supplied.  The  fountains 
like  those  of  Caracas  are  in  no  bad  taste,  and,  w'hat  of  all  is 
best,  they  are  a  benefit  to  the  population  generally,  and  ac- 
commodate those  who  are  the  least  able  to  supply  them- 
selves, as  well  as  those  who  are  opulent.  I  am  not  aware 
that  there  is  any  reservoir  on  the  south  quarter,  but  I  could 
perceive  in  my  walks,  that  no  street  of  the  city  having  an 
eastern  and  western  direction,  is  without  its  ample  rill  of 
clear  water  perpetually  flowing  over  the  well-paved  channels 
prepared  to  convey  it.  I  have  read  in  some  traveller's  re- 
marks, that  a  travelling  wit  once  observed  of  Bogota,  that  it 
would  be  a  dirty  place  were  it  not  for  the  waters  that  con- 
stantly wash  its  streets,  and  the  gallinazos  that  devour  the 
oft'al ;  this,  like  many  other  witticisms,  is  unjust  as  it  is 
unreflecting.  I  do  not  know  what  Bogota  might  have  been 
without  this  mountain  stream,  or  without  the  gallinazos ; 
but  I  have  not  seen  a  really  dirty  street  in  any  city  of  Co- 
lombia that  I  have  visited ;  but  the  poor  wit  in  this  case 
proved  more  than  he  intended,  because  his  sarcasm  amounts 
to  an  acknowledgment  of  the  actual  cleanliness  of  Bogota  : 
nevertheless,  there  are  some  customs  among  the  poorer  clas- 
ses that  are  neither  cleanly  nor  delicate  to  the  eyes  of  persons 
bred  where  customs  are  diflferent,  and,  as  these  mark  a  defect 
of  civilization,  and  a  deficiency  of  the  common  arts  of  social 
life,  so  far  as  they  go,  should  not  be  overlooked ;  no  where 
are  the  manners  of  the  well-bred  people  more  amiable  and  de- 
corous. The  poor  Indians,  only  just  rescued  by  the  repub- 
lic from  the  same  condition  as  the  cattle  in  a  hato,  and  re- 
stored to  the  social  state  of  free  human  beings,  cannot  be  ex- 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  469 

pected  to  have  acquired  thoseideasof  delicacy  which  "Sre  the 
consequence  and  the  proofs  of  refinement.  Our  residence  is 
in  the  Plaza  San  Francisco,  which  is  an  open  grass  plot,  and 
traversed  diagonally,  going  to  and  coming  from  the  bridge  of 
St.  Francis  at  its  south-west  angle  ;  the  poor  Indian  women 
in  their  blue  cloaks  and  petticoats,  if  impelled  by  natural  ne- 
cessity, without  looking  round,  or  any  apparent  conscious- 
ness of  observing  eyes,  will  not  hesitate  to  squat  on  the  grass 
for  a  moment,  and,  looking  behind,  pass  along  as  innocent  of 
offence  against  decorum,  as  the  babe  in  its  mother's  lap.  This 
undoubtedly  is  a  matter  which  a  more  improved  police  will 
rectify  in  time,  and  I  heard  it  was  so  intended ;  but  I  have  no 
doubt  that  some  kinds  of  travellers,  who,  like  the  wit  upon 
the  gallinazos,  would  set  it  down  as  the  evidence  of  national 
barbarism,  would  not  hesitate  to  step  up  to  a  wall  or  into  a  cor- 
ner, if  called  upon  in  the  open  street  by  a  similar  necessity,  and 
perform  a  similar  act,  without  thinking  it  indecorous.  But 
I  must  say  this  of  Bogota,  and  indeed  Colombia  generally, 
that  I  never  saw  a  man  in  Colombia  imitate  this  practice  of 
well-bred  men,  in  our  professedly  more  polished  societies, 
where  every  corner,  especially  near  our  public  courts,  is 
perpetually  perfumed^  I  was  going  to  say,  with  ammonia  or 
spirits  of  hartshorn. 

The  other  practice  I  refer  to  is  not  a  mere  moral  affair ;  it 
is  the  singular  devices  to  which  the  absence  of  the  useful 
arts  reduce  men,  and  by  which  the  operations  of  the  scaven- 
ger are  conducted  at  Bogota  ;  it  is  a  proof,  nevertheless,  that 
there  is  a  strong  disposition  to  preserve  the  streets  from  im- 
purity, though  the  means  are  almost  ridiculous.  From  the 
balcony  of  my  residence,  beneath  which  a  constant  current 
washed  the  channeled  pavement,  at  some  distance  above,  I 
perceived  six  or  seven  men,  with  short  brooms,  without 
handles,  squatting  on  their  hams  and  clearing  the  gutter  from 
an  unusual  quantity  of  vegetable  substance  that  had  accumu- 
lated at  different  points,  and  by  arresting  the  currrent  formed 


470  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

pools,  that  if  suffered  to  remain  must  become  oftbnsive  to 
the  senses ;  they  brushed  this  filth  upon  the  higher  pave- 
ment,  beginning  at  the  lower  extremity,  and,  when  the 
channel  became  clear  and  the  pavement  uncovered,  they 
proceeded  in  the  process  by  which  the  filth  was  to  be 
removed  : — there  was  no  mule  at  hand  ;  there  was  no  eart, 
or  wheel- barrow — for  wheel  carriages  make  no  part  of  the 
public  accommodation  or  economy  in  any  part  of  the  coun- 
try or  town ;  there  was  not  a  hand-barrow,  not  a  trough, 
or  box,  or  coffer ;  there  was  not  even  a  shovel,  nor  a  ca- 
labash, nor  a  tortoise  shell  in  the  hands  of  the  scavenger ; 
what  was  to  be  done?  The  filth  was  not  such  as  the 
gallinazo  would  or  could  carry  away — yet  the  filth  was  ab- 
solutely to  be  removed,  and  it  was  thus  accomplished.  The 
cow-hide,  that  serves  for  ten  thousand  uses — that  serves  for 
window  blinds  and  doors,  for  the  seats  and  backs  of  settees 
and  chairs  ;  which  is  better  than  a  hempen  sacking-bottom 
for  a  bedstead ; — with  it  the  rafters  of  the  rancho  are  made 
fast  to  the  transverse  beams  ;  the  doors  of  separated  rooms, 
and  even  the  front  doors,  are  frames  covered  with  cow-hide ; 
it  forms  the  lasso  by  which  the  wild  horse  and  bull  are  brought 
under  subjection ;  and  the  harness  of  the  numberless  mules 
which  carry  all  the  world  of  commerce  ; — the  enumeration  of 
the  uses  would  be  endless  : — the  scavenger  carries  a  bag  sat- 
chel shaped,  made  of  a  single  cow-hide  doubled  on  itself,  and 
sewed  at  the  sides  ;  the  open  end  is  laid  upon  the  pavement, 
and  the  filth  swept  into  it  with  the  short  broom  ;  a  strap  of 
cow-hide  made  fast  at  the  sides,  serves  to  purse  up  the  aper- 
ture, and  to  suspend  the  bag  over  the  shoulder,  and  thus  it 
is  the  filth  is  removed.  This  fact  argues,  what  is  necessarily 
true,  the  wretched  state  in  which  the  policy  of  Spain  placed 
the  countries  formerly  subjected  to  it.  Were  such  an  usage 
to  prevail  twenty  years  hence,  it  would  be  a  reproach  to  the 
republic.  But  I  have  been  describing  customs,  and  the  su- 
burbs, before  1  have  said  much  tiiat  is  necessary  about  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  471 

city  itself.  I  made  no  notes  of  the  names  of  the  streets,  be- 
cause in  every  other  city  they  have  been  changed  ;  Bogota 
itself  has  been  disarrayed  of  its  sanctification  by  Congress, 
formerly  called  Santa  Fe  de  Bogota,  or  Bogota  of  the  holy 
faith.  It  is  the  custom  of  republics,  I  believe,  to  become 
laconic  or  economical  of  words,  and  as  names  are  mere  terms 
of  discrimination,  intended  to  convey  an  idea  of  identity  of 
place,  the  Colombians  have  thought,  that,  as  there  were  more 
than  fifty  places  of  the  name  of  Santa  Fe,  which,  though  in- 
tended as  an  adjunct,  was  often  confounded  with  the  true 
name,  they  have  lopped  off  the  adjunct,  and  he  who  hears 
Bogota  is  sure  that  it  is  not  Santa  Fe  de  Antioquia,  nor  any 
other  of  the  Santa  Fes. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Tlie  Plaza  Mayor— commanding  position  of  the  Cathedral— the  Government- 
house — the  market  ilay— multiplicity  of  products — foreign  manufactures — 
Calle  Real — bookselling — shops— jewellers— shoemakers — tailors— tin-plate 
workers — milliners — blacksmiths. 

Of  the  four  plazas,  or  open  public  squares  of  Bogota, 
the  Plaza  Mayor  requires  the  most  notice.  They  have 
fountains,  which  constantly  flow  with  pure  water,  of  excel- 
lent architecture,  such  as  I  noticed  at  Caracas ;  and,  in  com- 
mon with  all  the  streets  running  from  east  to  west,  command 
a  complete  view  of  the  splendid  and  expansive  landscape  in 
the  whole  range  of  the  circle  from  south  by  west  to  north 
and  north-east,  the  mountain  forming  the  back  ground.  The 
Great  Plaza  is  distinguished  in  various  modes  for  its  sump- 


47S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

tuous  cathedral,  with  its  lofty  elliptical  dome,  rising  in 
graceful  proportions  above  the  eastern  end  of  the  church, 
lighting  the  great  altar  beneath  and  the  choir  :  its  two  beau- 
tiful cupolas  are  elevated  above  the  facade,  on  the  west- 
ern end,  and  the  facade  itself,  presenting  an  object,  which, 
though  it  may  not  be  in  conformity  with  the  exact  propor- 
tions of  the  European  schools  of  architecture,  the  tout  en- 
semble affords  to  the  eye  which  is  not  too  fastidious,  cold, 
and  critical,  a  high  gratification.  The  dome  seen  from  the 
west,  with  its  two  cupolas,  at  once  suggests  the  resemblance 
to  the  bold  and  commanding  preeminence  of  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome,  and  St.  Paul's  at  London  ;  and,  although  neither  so 
ample  nor  so  elevated,  it  derives,  from  the  high  position  on 
which  it  stands,  an  aspect  not  less  imposing  and  interesting; 
and,  like  those  great  temples,  deriving  an  additional  advan- 
tage from  contrast  with  the  surrounding  steeples,  and  domes, 
and  cupolas,  which,  though  numerous  and  high,  appear  di- 
minished to  inferiority  from  its  commanding  elevation.  In 
the  next  chapter,  I  shall  offer  some  further  particulars  in  con- 
nexion with  a  sketch  of  the  ecclesiastical  affairs. 

The  cathedral  stands  on  the  east  face  of  the  plaza,  and, 
with  another  religious  structure,  occupies  about  three-fifths 
of  the  whole  front ;  the  residue  of  that  face  of  the  square, 
on  the  south  end,  is  composed  of  dwellings  with  covered 
verandahs  or  galleries,  and  a  corridor  on  the  street. 

Directly  opposite  the  cathedral,  and  on  the  north  end  of 
the  west  face  of  the  plaza,  stands  the  palace,  so  called,  of  the 
executive :  M.  Mollien,  of  whom  some  notice  was  taken 
at  Serinza  and  Saiita  Rosa,  sneers  at  the  apparent  contradic- 
tion of  a  palace  and  a  republican  government,  betraying  his 
disregard  of  the  original  derivation  of  this  title  to  the  present 
structure,  and  its  history  ;  it  being  only  occupied  for  the  pub- 
lic accommodation  in  consequence  of  the  destruction  by  the 
Spaniards  of  that  building,  which  was,  at  the  commence- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  473 

ment  of  the  revolution,  the  palace  of  the  viceroy,  and  stood 
on  the  south  side  of  the  plaza,  where  a  temporary  barrack 
for  infantry  has  been  since  erected :  M.  Mollien  also  might 
have  learned,  in  the  course  of  the  studies  which  he  under- 
went to  qualify  him  for  his  secret  mission,  that  in  the  Cas- 
tilian  language,  which  is  prone  to  orientalism,  a  hut  of  four 
bamboos,  or  of  four  pita  walls  with  one  apartment  only, 
may,  without  violence  to  the  idiom,  be  denominated  a  pa- 
lace— which,  after  all,  signifies  no  more  than  the  word  place. 
This  building,  though  it  possesses  no  external  decoration, 
nor  pretension  to  architectural  order,  is  a  spacious  and  com- 
modious establishment.  It  is  two  stories  high,  and  affords, 
besides  numerous  apartments  for  the  vice-president  and  his 
suite,  ample  accommodation  for  all  the  great  departments  of 
the  executive  administration,  without  crowding  or  interfering 
one  with  the  other. 

The  entrance — and,  as  is  universal,  the  only  entrance — is 
on  the  face  of  the  Great  Plaza,  which  opens  by  a  pair  of 
ample  folding  gates  to  a  spacious  hall,  paved,  and  through 
which  a  broad  entrance  leads  to  the  patios  in  the  continuation 
of  the  buildings  west.  On  the  left  of  the  entrance  there  is 
a  handsome  room  appropriated  for  the  use  of  the  officer  of 
the  day,  whose  duty  places  him  there.  In  the  continuation 
of  the  entrance,  beyond  that  room,  a  broad  staircase  of  two 
flights  leads  to  the  upper  apartments ;  and  further  on,  very 
good  rooms  are  occupied  by  the  detachment  of  the  dragoons 
of  the  guards,  who  do  duty  on  foot ;  two  of  whom,  with 
their  sabres,  perform  the  service  of  centinels,  and,  with  a 
civility  that  is  not  common  to  centinels  and  guards  in  other 
countries,  render  to  strangers  the  service  of  guides,  and,  as  I 
constantly  found  them,  always  ready  to  afford  directions  to 
those  who  visit  and  inquire  for  the  different  public  offices. 
This  hall  exhibits,  besides  the  obliging  dragoons  on  duty, 
the  arms  of  the  guard,  their  carabines  in  fine  order,  suspend- 
ed on  racks,  and  the  sabres  and  accoutrements  neat  and  me- 

60 


474  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

thodically  disposed.  On  the  right  of  the  entrance  a  stone 
staircase,  of  a  few  steps,  leads  to  a  passage  northward,  and 
opens  upon  a  patio  well  paved,  and  an  ample  corridor,  cover- 
with  the  strong  matting  fabricated  by  the  Indians,  which  leads 
to  the  apartments  appropriated  in  the  north-east  angle,  to  the 
department  of  foreign  affairs.  The  offices  of  the  secretary  of 
the  interior,  the  treasury,  the  war,  and  the  navy  departments, 
are  on  the  upper  floor,  as  well  as  the  audience  hall,  council 
chamber,  and  a  vast  number  of  apartments  in  the  occupation 
of  the  executive,  both  for  public  uses  and  his  domestic  ac- 
commodations. 

But  it  is  as  the  centre  of  all  popular  festivities,  and,  above 
all,  as  the  centre  of  traffic,  as  a  great  market,  that  the 
plaza  mayor  presents  the  most  interesting  position  in  Bogota. 
The  ordinary  market  day  is  Friday,  and,  though  it  has  this 
stated  day  for  the  immense  concourse  from  the  surrounding 
country,  this  place,  for  three  or  four  hours  every  morning  of 
the  week,  exhibits  an  abundant  market  for  articles  of  sub- 
sistence, in  the  greatest  variety,  and  at  the  most  moderate 
prices. 

This  spacious  square  is  paved  in  the  usual  excellent  style 
throughout,  and  the  method  of  paving  in  compartments,  by 
lines  of  stones  on  the  edge,  and  the  compartment  filled  with 
pavement  of  round  stones,  though  it  was  not  intended  for 
the  purpose,  becomes  of  some  use  in  the  apportionment 
of  space  to  the  dealers  in  various  commodities ;  there  are 
neither  tables,  chairs,  stools,  counters,  or  chests  visible  in 
this  square ;  all  commodities  are  displayed  on  the  naked 
pavement,  or,  where  the  articles  require  it,  on  coarse  cloths 
spread  ,upon  the  space  regulated.  Here  are  seen  the 
manufactured  products  of  all  parts  of  the  globe,  Japan  and 
China,  India,  Persia,  France,  England,  Germany,  Italy, 
and  Holland  ;  and,  though  last,  not  least,  the  United  States, 
or  their  favourite  America  del  Norte,    On  different  platforms. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  4^5 

apportioned  out  by  proper  officers,  or  clerks  of  the  market, 
or  deputies  of  the  alcaldes,  are  seen  piles  of  every  kind  of 
cotton,  woollen,  silk,  and  linen  manufactures ;  calicoes  of 
India  and  England,  the  silks  of  Asia,  Italy,  and  France ; 
the  coarse  linen  fabrics  of  Russia,  Saxony,  Silesia,  Swabia, 
and  Holland  ;  the  finer  linens  of  England,  Ireland,  France, 
and  Holland  ;  the  broad  coarse  stripes  and  checks  of  Ger- 
many, and  their  English  successful  imitations.  I  recognized, 
with  some  surprise  and  pleasure,  in  more  than  one  of  these 
collections,  the  familiar  Wilmington  cotton  stripe,  and 
alongside  of  it  an  English  imitation,  which  I  found,  to  my 
no  less  surprise,  the  chapman  knew ;  and  he  showed  me  a 
remnant  of  an  imitation  chambray,  of  a  thread  about  the 
texture  of  nankeen,  which  he  said  was  much  sought  on  ac- 
count of  its  durability  and  suitableness.  Lanes,  if  I  may  so 
call  them,  were  kept  open  between  the  cloths  of  each  chap- 
man, so  that  the  purchasers  travelled  as  if  upon  the  lines  of 
a  chequerboard.  There  stood  an  ample  series  of  piles  of 
coarse,  and  next  to  it  of  fine  woollen  broad-cloths — of  York- 
shire and  of  Rouen,  and  some  too  of  the  Philadelphia  and 
Baltimore  looms.  Blankets  and  stripes  for  romeros ;  hats, 
round  and  military,  of  wool,  fur,  and  beaver,  as  well  as 
straw,  chip,  and  cuquisias,  or  the  agave  fibre ;  and  for  both 
sexes. 

On  other  compartments  of  the  plaza,  fruit  and  vegetable 
productions,  of  every  description,  were  placed  in  piles  on 
the  pavement  or  in  capacious  or  small  baskets — potatoes, 
beets,  turnips, carrots,  apios,  yuccas,  cheremoyas,  pine  apples, 
melons,  paw-paws,  soursops,  alligator  pears,  medlars,  guavas, 
cauliflowers,  artichokes,  aracatchas,  &c. ;  baskets  and  sacks 
of  crimson,  yellow,  mottled,  and  snow-white  maize ;  rice  in 
sacks  and  baskets  ;  wheat,  beans,  barley,  pease,  vetches,  &c. ; 
ginger,  cellery,  cinnamon,  capsicums  of  numerous  kinds  and 
sizes ;  cabbages,  lettuce,  and  bouquettes  of  pinks,  roses, 
lilies,  and  many  flowers  peculiar  to  the  country. 


476  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

On  other  spaces,  turkeys,  pheasants,  ducks  of  different 
kinds,  partridges,  quails,  guinea  fowls,  doves,  various  kinds 
of  pigeon,  and  numerous  birds  of  variegated  plumage,  and 
singing  birds  in  wicker  cages ;  among  the  birds  the  mocking 
bird,  heard  in  all  parts  of  the  wooded  country  and  plains,  is 
also  brought  to  market  for  domestic  curiosity,  as  well  as 
parrots  and  paroquets  of  various  tints  and  tongues,  and 
monkeys  of  diff.  rent  species. 

In  other  spaces  are  seen  the  barks  of  Loxa,  Neyva,  and 
Quito;  the  balsams,  dye-woods,  turmeric,  indigo,  cochineal, 
and  a  paste  for  dyeing,  made  of  the  opuntia  or  prickly  pear, 
cassia  or  ii:itive  cinnamon,  pimento,  and  other  aromatics. 

Sugar,  cacao,  coffee,  cotton,  in  small  and  in  large  parcels  ; 
and  chocolate  prepared  in  round  balls,  sold  by  the  basket,  or 
in  any  larger  or  smaller  quantity. 

Coarse  clothing,  hats,  saddlery,  coarse  cutlery,  and  simi- 
lar articles,  are  to  be  found  constantly  for  sale  on  the  market 
day  at  the  stated  hours ;  and  mules,  asses,  and  horses,  as 
Vv'ell  as  cattle  of  different  kinds,  are  here  bargained  for,  from 
a  single  animal  to  a  thousand. 

The  only  manual  arts  which  I  saw  in  practice  at  Bogota, 
were  principally  that  of  the  tailor,  next  the  shoemaker;  I 
saw  one  blacksmith's  shop,  it  was  that  of  an  Englishman ; 
there  are  several  tinplate  workers,  but  their  skill  is  confined 
to  pint  pots,  tin  cups,  graters,  and  lanterns,  and  now  and  then 
a  porringer,  ladle,  or  cullender  ;  so  that  the  want  of  roads  is 
not  to  be  deplored  by  the  retailers  of  Yankee  notions  of  tin 
ware,  the  demand  being  limited  to  articles  so  few. 

These  and  every  merchantable  thing  are  to  be  found  in 
this  market,  but  every  day  these  are  to  be  found  in  the  shops 
which  occupy  the  north  face  of  the  plaza,  where  also  wines, 
oils,  liquors,  and  foreign  products  are  always  to  be  found. 
But  it  is  in  the  Calle  Real  that  the  richest  and  finest  commo- 
dities are  exposed  for  sale  in  spacious  shops,  which  occupy 
the  ground-floor  of  all  the  houses  on  both  sides  of  that  busy 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  477 

Street.     Here  the   finest  jewellery,  cutlery,  millinery,  and 
clothing  for  both  sexes,  are  collected,  and  from  thence  dis- 
persed over  all  the  countries,  west,  south,  and  east,  for  some 
hundreds  of  miles,  and  beyond  Quito.     Native  crystals,  the 
topaz  of  various  hues  from  Brazil,  the  emeralds  of  the  coun- 
try in  deeper  or  paler  tints,  wrought  and  rude;  the  diamonds, 
and  rubies,  and  amethysts  of  Asia,  ghtter  alongside  the  ar- 
tificial gems  of  Paris  ;  and  the  fine  wrought  gold  filagree  of 
the  native  workmen  which  rivals  that  of  the  eastern  Archipe- 
lago.    This  street  contains  the  only  bookseller's  shop  I  had 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  in  Colombia ;  the  books  were  prin- 
cipally French,  a  few  English,  many  recent  productions  of  the 
Spanish  press,  which  were  issued  in  great  profusion  during 
the  existence  of  even  that  partial  and  kind  of  expedient  for 
government  under  the  Cortes,  which,  in  recognizing  the  most 
mean  and  perfidious  of  men  as  monarch,  lost  the  Cortes  the 
confidence  and  the  respect  of  all  virtuous  and  generous  minds. 
In  noticing  the  bookseller,  whose  business  did  not  seem 
to  be  either  brisk  or  profitable,  I  am  led  to  speak  of  the  li- 
brary.     In  noticing  the  former  monastery  of  the  Jesuits,  now 
a  seminary  of  education  upon  the  old  system,  I  observed  it 
stood  on  the  south-east  angle  of  the  manzana,  cut  by  the  in- 
tersection of  the  streets  which  are  continuous  of  the  east  and 
south  faces  of  the  great  plaza,  the  Calle  Real  being  the  north- 
ern continuation  of  the  east  face,  and  the  Jesuit's  college  that 
which  continues  on  the  same  line  south.     The  old  monas- 
tery of  San  Bartholome  stands  further  south  on  the  north 
side  of  this  street.     The  transactions  of  which  I  had  charge 
carried  me  for  some  weeks  to  this  library,  where  the  board  of 
liquidation  held  its  sittings,  and  whose  deliberate  mode  of 
business  enabled  me  to  travel  through  the  heaps  of  books 
which  lay  on  the  floor,  and  a  vast  number  which  occupied 
the  ample  shelves.     I  felt  some  dissatisfaction  at  the  manner 
in  which  these  books  were  treated,  and  the  negligence  and 
disorder  of  the  mode  in  which  their  arrangement  was  not  car- 


478  VISIT    TO     COLOMBIA. 

ried  on,  and  the  more  as  I  found  among  this  rich  collection 
many  valuable,  I  may  say  invaluable  works ;  and  although 
there  is  a  great  mass  of  scholastic,  and  monastic,  and  dogmatic 
rubbish,  it  is  there  that  the  materials  could  be  found  to  fur- 
nish  an  history  of  the  countries  that  had  been  possessed  by 
Spain.  This  library  is  founded  on  the  collection  left  to  his 
country  by  the  celebrated  Mutis,  a  native  of  Bogota,  to 
which  has  been  added  by  the  public  providence  all  the  libra- 
ries that  belonged  to  confiscated  estates,  ecclesiastical  and 
private. 

The  observatory,  which  was  erected  under  the  auspices  of 
Mutis  and  others,  remained  ;  its  instruments  and  apparatus 
were  there,  but  no  professor ;  at  my  departure  I  understood 
some  men  of  science  had  arrived,  and  this  class  of  institu- 
tions was  about  to  be  restored. 

"The  spectacle  of  this  market  in  the  plaza  mayor,  not  only 
on  Friday  but  every  day,  is  very  striking  to  the  eye  of  a  stran- 
ger. Travellers  too  generally  look  to  other  objects,  physical 
and  metaphysical ;  it  was  viewed  by  me  as  an  example  of  the 
natural  state  of  the  country  ;  its  riches  for  external  commerce 
and  its  abundance ;  the  manners  of  the  people  under  the 
new  institutions ;  their  good  humour ;  their  cordial  deport- 
ment towards  each  other ;  their  aptitude  for  labour  in  the 
enormous  burdens  carried  by  men  and  women  into  and  out 
of  the  plaza  ;  the  promptness  of  their  bargains  ;  the  avidity 
displayed  for  articles  of  use  and  ornament ;  the  very  remark- 
able activity  and  industry  of  the  aborigines  who  visited  the 
market  with  a  diversity  of  commodities,  the  products  of  their 
own  industry,  all  of  which  presented  to  me  a  scene  of  man- 
ners and  opulence  in  the  industrious  classes,  much  beyond 
my  warmest  anticipations.  I  could  not  but  deplore  the  utter 
absence  of  roads  adapted  to  wheel- carriages,  and  the  trans- 
port of  the  products  of  the  soil,  the  want  of  which  alone  pre- 
vents the  cultivation  of  immense  tracts  in  the  finest  climates 
and  the  richest  soil  in  the  universe ;  and  I  regret  to  say  that 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  479 

their  importance,  though  much  spoken  of,  is  not  duly  ap- 
preciated, either  as  a  source  of  national  opulence,  augmented 
population,  or,  what  they  very  much  require,  sources  of 
effective  permanent  revenue. 

Having  spoken  of  this  central  mart  of  the  capital,  before 
I  leave  it,  some  further  notice  of  the  cathedral  may  be  given 
in  this  place.  At  a  distance,  especially  on  the  road  return- 
ing from  the  south-west,  the  city  and  its  lofty  elliptic  dome 
present  some  resemblance  of  the  city  of  Florence  in  Etruria ; 
I  have  before  noticed  its  resemblance,  connected  with  its 
two  cupolas,  seen  from  the  west,  to  St.  Peter's  and  St.  Paul's. 
In  one  of  those  cupolas  there  is  a  very  fine  clock,  and  kept 
in  the  best  order,  which,  besides  striking  the  hours  on  a  bell 
of  a  fine  deep  tone,  strikes  the  quarter  hours  on  a  tenor. 
Bells  of  a  good  tone  are  rare,  though  there  is  no  church  with, 
out  bells  of  some  kind,  but  they  are  miserable  utensils,  af- 
fording no  more  musical  sounds  than  the  brass  candlesticks 
when  the  country  housewives  are  collecting  a  swarm  of  bees. 

The  cathedral  of  Bogota  has  been  much  admired  for  its 
fine  facade,  and  not  without  good  reason,  though  M.  Mollien 
reprobates  it,  while  he  applauds  the  interior,  which  belongs 
to  no  order  of  architecture  whatever.  Captain  Cochrane, 
with  a  different  temper,  lavishes  encomiums  on  both  with  a 
hasty  indiscretion :  the  truth  lies  between.  The  first  im- 
pression made  by  this  structure  is  that  of  pleasure,  for  the 
facade  at  twice  the  distance  of  its  elevation  is  in  harmony 
with  its  diameter ;  and  it  is  only  on  a  closer  approach,  that 
the  entablature  appears  too  much  depressed  for  the  length 
of  the  shaft  of  the  pilasters  which  sustain  the  cornice.  The 
base  moulding  of  the  shaft  is  not  the  cincture  bead  and  to- 
rus of  the  Doric,  but  such  as  we  sometimes  see  on  the  Co- 
rinthian, Ionic,  and  even  the  Tuscan ;  a  double  moulding, 
as  the  workman  would  describe  it,  but  in  more  technical 
phrase  the  upper  member  of  the  base,  or  astrigal,  or  small 
torus,  with  a  scotia  below,  and  beneath,  placed  upon  the 


480  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

plinth,  the  larger  torus.  The  excellence  and  boldness  of  the 
chisseled  work,  as  it  appeared  to  me,  though  it  is  disco- 
loured by  the  atmosphere,  was  a  species  of"  freestone  much 
resembling  that  of  which  the  capitol  at  Washington  and  the 
houses  of  Bdth  in  England  are  generally  constructed.  The 
pedestal  has  no  skirting,  and  seemed  rather  low  for  the  shaft, 
which  perhaps  may  have  been  the  effect  of  the  platform  raised 
in  front. 

This  structure  has  another  peculiarity,  that  of  being  erect- 
ed by  a  native  and  :5eU  educated  artist,  who  had  never  pass- 
ed beyond  the  precincts  of  his  native  province  :  as  the  effect 
is  striking,  and  it  is  the  fastidiousness  of  criticism  that  would 
discover  faults,  and  such  have  been  said  to  be  found  in  some 
of  the  most  celebrated  structures  of  antiquity,  it  is  entitled 
to  admiration.  The  interior,  to  which  access  is  obtained  by 
a  fine  pair  of  lofty  gates  at  the  west  end,  has  been  described 
as  built  in  the  Corinthian  order ;  it  had  been  better  not  to 
have  said  so.  The  church  is  separated  into  two  aisles  and 
the  nave,  the  sides  half  the  width  of  the  centre.  On  entering, 
the  altiir  and  the  church  altogether  is  concealed  by  the  west 
end  of  an  elevated  choir,  which  occupies  above  the  floor 
two  fifths  of  the  nave.  It  is  not  so  gloomy  as  the  choir  at 
Caracas,  but  it  has  all  the  inconvenience  and  cumbrous  ap- 
pearance ;  and  excludes  the  auditory  from  any  participation 
in  the  psalmody.  The  choir  passed  on  either  side,  displays 
some  massy  white  pillars,  upon  the  summit  of  which  are 
capitals  rudely  itnitating  the  acanthus,  but  all  over-gilt — 
the  shafts  are  too  stunted,  and  the  gilding  outre.  There  is 
nothing  of  the  carver's  skill,  nothing  of  that  '*  virginial  delica- 
cy" which  Scamozzi  considers  essential — no  lightness,  nor 
that  sudden  unpressed  rest  of  the  acanthus,  beneath  its  tile  or 
abacus,  without  which  the  plain  Doric  or  the  rustic  pillar 
would  be  more  suitable.  The  church  is  every  where  well 
lighted  from  above,  and,  after  advancing  as  far  as  the  east  end 
of  the  choir,  the  great  altar  appears  in  a  recess  equal  to  the 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  4j81 

breadth  of  the  nave,  and  elevated,  exclusive  of  the  steps  of 
the  altar  at  the  extreme,  one  or  two  steps  above  the  floor  of 
the  church.  There  are  two  side  altars  beside  the  great  altar 
appropriately  placed  in  the  east ;  and  some  paintings  of  sa- 
cred subjects  very  well  disposed  around  these  altars. 

In  the  two  aisles,  on  the  north  and  south  sides,  there  are 
several,  perhaps  twelve  or  fourteen,  lesser  altars,  or  little 
chapels ;  around  which  there  are  lesser  paintings,  and  I  re- 
marked that  those  of  every  separate  altar  were  in  a  style  of 
colouring  and  shade  peculiar  and  different  from  each  other ; 
some  were  very  fine — but  many  were  sad  daubs. 

Passing  along  to  the  east  by  the  south  aisle,  a  very  hand- 
some and  ample  door  stood  open,  and  revealed  at  a  glimpse 
an  interior  chapel  of  a  light  grey  marble,  of  beautiful 
and  admirably  executed  architecture,  in  which  the  very 
athletic  columns  displayed  the  Ionic  capital.  The  shafts 
were  unusually  swelled,  and  less  elevated  for  their  diameter 
than  the  Ionic  proportions ;  so  that  I  should  have  been  apt 
to  say,  that  the  shaft  was  really  Doric ;  nor  has  the  archi- 
tect introduced  any  of  the  usual  ornaments  of  the  Ionic  on 
the  frieze.  These  remarks  are  made,  and,  though  not  im- 
portant, may  remain  in  preference  to  a  more  studied  or  con- 
cise general  description.  The  impression  made  by  the  view 
was  delightful,  there  was  a  harmony  in  the  breadth  and  ele- 
vation which  seemed  to  reduce  the  space.  It  occurred  to  me 
that  the  architect,  in  this  structure,  had  accommodated  the 
elevation  and  diameter  of  the  column,  to  the  fulness  and 
athletic  forms  of  the  lovely  females  of  the  country.  If  the 
architect  never  thought  of  this  analogy,  it  is  not  my  fault;  it 
would  be  a  handsome  apology  for  him,  and  it  enables  me  to 
hint  at  the  characteristic  roundness  and  beauty  of  the  lovely 
Seiioritas  of  Bogota.  As  the  other  churches  are  not  interest- 
ing structures,  I  shall  pass  them  over  in  a  summary  way  % 
indeed  I  visited  but  few  of  them. 

61 


482  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

The  Franciscans  appear  not  to  be  such  jolly  fellows  as 
the  Dominicans.  Their  monastery  in  the  square  of  San 
Francisco,  where  I  resided,  is  ample.  The  church  ranges  on 
the  west  side  of  the  square,  so  that  the  altar  is  at  the  north 
end  ;  the  access  is  by  spacious  gates  on  the  soutli  and  east 
sides.  The  choir,  very  judiciously,  is  placed  in  a  gallery  at 
the  south  end,  so  that  the  space  in  the  nave  below  is  open  to 
the  congregation  ;  the  more  necessary,  as  there  are  no  aisles : 
it  is,  like  several  others,  a  long  spacious  single  hall,  much 
disfigured  with  senseless  gilding  on  the  walls  and  ceiling. 

Within  the  church,  on  the  west  side,  a  gate  opens  upon 
the  first  cloister  or  square  of  two  stories,  with  ample  corri- 
dors on  all  sides  above  and  below.  The  walls  of  the  lower 
corridor  are  covered  with  large  pictures,  wars  of  the  con- 
quest and  pious  subjects,  which  were  in  a  style  that  did  not 
induce  any  enquiries  on  my  part :  a  surly  superior  of  the 
order  manifested  "  the  malignity  of  a  monk"  by  the  con- 
tortions of  his  face,  his  scowling  eye,  and  tremulous  lip,  on 
seeing  strangers,  spectators.  I  said  to  myself,  as  Sterne  said 
to  an  animal  more  useful  and  innocent,  *'  go,  poor  devil,  I 
never  quarrel  with  any  of  your  family."  I  therefore  mounted 
the  stairs  along  with  General  Devereux,  and  we  passed  along 
the  second  gallery,  and  saw  the  third  corridor.  I  was  intro- 
duced here  to  one  of  the  monks,  and  was  not  a  little  sur- 
prised to  be  accosted  in  the  English  language,  ornamented 
with  a  very  genteel  brogue.  I  had  some  interviews  after- 
wards with  this  Irish  friar ;  but  it  would,  perhaps,  not  be 
treating  him  fairly  to  relate  his  lamentations  over  the  decay 
and  impending  ruin  of  his  order.  I  shall  simply  state,  that 
the  law  which  transferred  the  inmates  of  a  monastery,  when 
reduced  to  a  given  number,  would,  he  said,  before  long,  trans- 
fer that  beautiful  and  comfortable  and  rich  monastery  to  the 
republic ;  "not  that  he  was  unfriendly  to  liberty,  but  before 
the  revolution  their  monasteries  were  full,  and  now  they  are 
almost  empty :  that,  as  the  natives  had  no  chance  in  their 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  483 

own  country  for  preferhient,  in  former  times,  the  young  men 
then  generally  entered  into  orders,  and  the  beautiful  sefioritas 
took  orders  too ;  but  now  there  are  so  many  offices  under 
this  new  government,  besides  the  army  and  the  navy,  and  a 
thousand  other  things,  that  the  young  men  have  forsaken 
the  church  to  follow  ambition;  and  the  young  girls  hiiving 
a  free  will  of  their  own — God  help  them  ! — they  prefer  get- 
ting married  to  devoting  their  immortal  souls  to  pious  re- 
tirement ;  that  there  were  but  a  few  in  that  monastery  likely 
to  live  very  long — and  then  this  beautiful  convent  goes.  I 
have,  as  far  as  possible,  used  his  own  ideas,  though  I  have 
not  succeeded  in  the  simplicity  and  spirit  of  his  expres- 
sions. 

There  is  another  church  of  the  Recollets  of  St.  Diego,  se- 
parated only  by  the  upright  wall  from  that  of  St.  Francis,  and 
one  of  the  Holy  Cross.  There  is  a  small  tiled  hut,  in  the 
north-west  angle  of  the  same  square,  dedicated  to  St.  Hu- 
mildas,  said  to  have  been  the  first  church  constructed  in  that 
region,  and,  on  the  ceremonial  days,  it  is  never  omitted  in  the 
processions  or  visitations.  Some  strangers  pointed  out  to  me 
a  sort  of  gate-way,  which  crossed  the  street  in  the  continuance 
from  south  to  north  of  the  line  of  the  square.  A  convent 
of  nuns  occupied  formerly,  or  may  at  this  moment  for 
what  I  know,  the  corner  house  to  which  the  north  side  of 
the  arch  was  attached.  The  gate-way  had  no  gates  below, 
but  over  the  arch  there  was,  and  is,  a  passage  between  the 
nunnery  and  the  church  ;  I  accounted  for  this  by  the  vow  of 
retirement,  and  the  obligation  of  frequent  confession ;  that 
the  nuns  might  pass  to  mass  or  to  confession  unseen  by  the 
world  they  had  abandoned ;  or,  if  sick,  they  could  have 
spiritual  comfort,  without  exciting  any  curiosity  from  the 
idle  people  who  walked  below,  and  minded  every  body's 
business  but  their  own ;  but  those  strangers  put  a  different 
construction  on  this  gate- way  passage — and  what  could  I  do 
in  attempting  to  prove  a  negative.     My  sentiments,  I  con- 


484*  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 

fess,  were  very  much  shaken  by  an  incident  that  took  place 
on  Good  Friday,  which  1  may  rckite  (if  I  do  not  forget  it)  in 
another  pkice. 

The  festivals  of  the  Catholic  countries  are  so  numerous, 
that  they  arc  adapted  rather  for  a  tropical  climate  than  for 
the  temperate  regions,  which  require  more  labour  and  the 
comforts  of  domestic  firesides.  Indeed,  fertile  as  Colombia 
is,  and  rich  in  ample  and  triple  harvests  in  the  same  year, 
and  off  the  same  ground,  the  religious  festivals,  if  enforced 
as  most  of  the  regular  orders  of  monks  and  some  of  the 
seculars  would  enforce  them,  must  interfere  seriously  with 
the  prosperity  of  a  society  which  had  reached  a  state  of 
civilization  and  taste  for  the  useful  arts.  The  general,  or 
predominant  character  of  the  festivals  after  the  service  or 
ceremonial,  is  that  of  relaxation  and  the  enjoyment  of  inno- 
cent pleasures.  In  Lent,  commencing  with  Ash- Wednesday, 
society  assumes  a  sombre  aspect — the  privations  and  absti- 
nence enjoined  for  this  austere  and  gloomy  season,  are  some- 
what softened  by  the  clerical  contrivance  of  exaction  in  the 
issuing  indulgences  for  the  use  of  flesh  meat ;  which  have 
been  further  reduced  by  the  necessity  which  the  priesthood 
found  of  refraining  from  the  severity  of  the  church  discipline 
since  the  revolution.  Passion  week,  in  the  intention  of  its 
religious  services,  is  a  series  of  commemorations  allegorically 
or  dramatically  displayed ;  and  circumstantially  represent 
the  passion  or  sufferings  of  Christ,  from  the  event  in  the 
garden  of  Gethsemane ;  the  denial  by  Peter ;  the  arrest  and 
betrayal  by  Judas  ;  the  appearance  before  Pilate ;  the  scourg- 
ing,  carrying  of  the  cross,  crucifixion,  taking  down  from  the 
cross,  and  transference  to  the  sepulchre,  and  the  resurrection 
on  Easter- day  :  all  these  events,  and  others,  being  represent- 
ed by  some  act  or  device  of  the  mass,  make  a  very  solemn 
impression,  even  without  the  pomp  and  circumstance  which 
have  been  made  to  give  it  a  deeper  impression  on  the  senses. 
Yet  it  is  only  on  a  comparatively  few  that  the  serious  part 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  485 

of  the  ceremonial  operates ;  the  pageantry  has  been  carried  to 
so  great  an  excess  here,  that  the  spectacle  arrests  the  imagi- 
nation of  the  ignorant,  while  upon  the  intelligent  the  moral 
force  of  the  ceremonial  is  diminished  or  lost;  and  even 
the  ceremonial  of  Good-Friday,  in  which  all  the  inci- 
dents of  the  Passion  are  brought  into  view  together,  in 
the  forms  of  images  and  paintings,  excites  more  curiosity  to 
see  the  show,  than  recollection  or  devotion  towards  the  sacri- 
fice of  the  Atonement.  Hence  even  this  solemnity,  in  the 
excess  of  detailed  ceremonial,  mostly  inspires  a  sensual  in- 
stead of  a  moral  regard,  especially  among  those  whose  minds 
are  least  prone  to  abstractions  or  capable  of  making  them. 
The  ceremonial  of  the  Passion  Week  at  Bogota,  very  much 
outshows  that  at  Goa,  which  I  had  supposed  surpassed  all 
others.  Palm  Sunday  was  a  very  gay  day.  The  Monday 
succeeding  was  marked  by  a  procession  from  the  northern- 
most church,  or  Augustine's  priory,  to  each  in  succession 
in  the  progress  to  the  cathedral.  A  figure  in  wax,  or  com- 
position, whom  I  presume  to  have  been  the  patron  saint  of 
that  church,  was  carried  on  a  platform  or  litter,  beneath  a 
canopy ;  the  platform  sustained  on  the  shoulders  of  men, 
who  assumed  a  particular  garb.  The  efiigy  of  the  saint 
was  nearly  as  large  as  life,  and  painted  in  much  the  same 
style  as  the  statuary  in  gypsum,  usually  hawked  about  the 
streets  of  our  cities.  The  figures  on  the  succeeding  days, 
however,  were  many  of  them  executed  with  tolerable  skill 
in  anatomy,  and  some  taste  in  the  drapery.  These  pro- 
cessions continued  daily  from  the  several  churches ;  and 
visits,  it  seems,  were  returned ;  I  confess  that  I  did  not 
feel  so  much  curiosity  as  to  inquire  why  or  wherefore  those 
visitations  were  made,  and  I  could  not  account  for  them  by 
the  book. 

All  business,  public  and  private,  seemed  to  be  suspended 
during  this  week  of  processions.     Good-Friday,  however, 


486  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

concentrated  the  whole.  It  would  be  impossible  in  a  small 
volume  to  give  the  details ;  what  is  here  is  but  an  imperfect 
sketch ;  for  the  various  churches  and  chapels  had  their  pe- 
culiar effigies — and  the  morning  was  passed  in  visiting  with 
one  set  of  effigies  those  of  another  church.  About  three 
o'clock  the  general  procession  from  all  the  churches  to  the 
cathedral,  began  to  flow  in  that  direction.  A  military  guard 
led  the  van,  and,  in  succession,  about  fifty  platforms  or  lit- 
ters passed.  It  would  be  vain  and  useless  to  particularize 
all.  I  shall  notice  a  few  of  the  most  conspicuous.  The 
monastic  orders,  in  their  robes  of  service  or  surplices,  with 
stoles,  appeared  with  the  emblematic  figures  of  their  church- 
es— the  civil  authorities,  alcaldes,  and  other  officers,  and 
the  national  functionaries — strangers  who  were  specially  in- 
vited to  the  funccion — and  private  citizens,  bearing  wax- 
tapers  ;  after  several  of  the  emblematic  saints  had  passed, 
various  scenes  of  the  passion  were  exhibited  in  statuary  ; 
the  carrying  of  the  cross  very  handsomely  executed  as  to 
art ;  the  whipping  at  the  pillar  not  so  well  executed ;  but,  after 
this  platform,  or  litter,  came  some  Dominican  friars,  and  pe- 
nitents in  black,  excepting  two  very  brawny  friars,  whose 
bodies  were  naked  to  the  waist,  and  who  held  cats  of  nine- 
tails  in  their  hands,  with  which  every  how  and  then  they  sa- 
luted their  naked  shoulders ;  I  was  assumed  that  the  cats 
were  dipt  in  a  red-lead  liquid,  but  I  did  not  see  it,  though 
the  exhibition  of  the  naked  shoulders  and  the  harmless  cats 
were  too  much  for  my  taste  in  religious  exercises.  On 
other  litters,  the  nailing  on  the  cross,  the  elevation  of  the 
cross — and  the  two  thieves — the  taking  down  : — after  the 
platform,  on  which  was  depicted  the  crucifixion,  came  ano- 
ther, bc:iring  the  Virgin  Mother,  attired  in  imperial  style ; 
two  or  three  other  litters  followed,  and  the  procession  closed 
with  a  body  of  the  regular  infantry,  handsomely  equipped, 
and  exemplarily  diligent  to  order  and  pace — while  their  fine 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  487 

band  of  musical  instruments  were  performing  the  Marseiliois 
Hymn  in  excellent  style. 

Those  platforms  or  litters  were  carried  by  men  dressed  in 
a  gray  monkish  garb,  their  faces  very  generally  masked,  some 
with  ludicrous  conical  caps  of  eighteen  inches  height,  and  a 
black  crape  over  the  face  with  three  holes.  Each  wore  san- 
dals of  better  than  the  common  wear,  and  each  carried  a  staff 
of  about  four  feet  six  inches  long,  with  an  iron  crutch  on  the 
end,  and,  when  the  procession  halted,  the  platforms  rested  on 
those  crutches.  I  did  not  enter  the  cathedral,  owing  to  the 
great  pressure ;  but  the  service  is  established  in  the  ritual, 
and  unless  it  was  the  music,  nothing  was  to  be  added  to  the 
observations  already  made. 

The  private  service  had  continued  during  the  previous 
night,  and  it  was  four  o'clock  in  the  evening  before  the  whole 
was  terminated.  About  six  o'clock  I  was  sitting  in  the 
gallery  of  my  residence,  which  was  on  the  north  face  of 
the  Plaza  of  St.  Francis,  the  street  which  formed  that 
side  of  the  square  extended  east  and  west ;  the  west  descent 
was  crossed  by  the  archway  between  the  nunnery  and  the 
church  before  noticed  ;  looking  along  the  street  under  that 
arch  I  observed  an  unusual  bustle,  and  a  detachment  of  the 
guard  turned  out  in  front  of  their  barracks  on  the  opposite  or 
south  face  of  the  plaza,  which  a  civil  officer  conducted  to 
the  place  where  the  disorder  appeared ;  I  followed  to  see  the 
result,  and  had  just  arrived  in  front  when  two  friars  were 
brought  out,  and  conducted  under  charge  of  the  guard.  I 
was  so  close  as  to  see  the  features  of  these  two  persons,  in- 
deed so  close  that  in  a  few  days  afterwards,  upon  visiting  the 
monastery  to  which  they  belonged,  they  descried  me,  and 
one  said  to  the  other,  in  my  hearing,  "  he  was  there — he 
saw  us,"  and  in  very  high  glee  appeared  to  narrate  the  affair 
of  their  arrest  on  Good  Friday  ; — I  should  not  have  thought 
the  incident  worth  a  remark,  for  the  house  they  were  taken 
out  of  was  a  brothel. 


488  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  ecclesiastical  affairs  of  Colombia  have  been  much  de- 
ranged by  the  revolution,  and  will  require  some  time  for  re- 
gulation. The  disaffection  of  some  of  the  superior  clergy, 
as  the  archbishop  of  Caracas,  the  vacancy  of  that  of  Bogota, 
the  bishoprics  of  Cuenca  and  Guayana,  and  the  death  of 
others,  the  vacancies  of  which  it  has  been  deemed  proper 
not  to  fill  until  it  shall  be  ascertained  whether  the  policy  of 
the  court  of  Rome  will  bend  to  events,  or  render  it  expedient 
for  South  America  generally  to  establish  an  American  pa- 
triarchate, entirely  independent  of  the  pontifical  interference. 

Under  the  colonial  state  the  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  did 
not  correspond  with  the  governmental.  Panama,  Quito,  Cu- 
enca, and  Maynas,  within  the  now  Colombian  territory,  were, 
under  Spain,  suffragans  of  Lima,  in  Peru.  This  incompa- 
tibility has  been  already  remedied  ;  but  it  is  contemplated  to 
constitute  a  third  archbishopric  in  Quito,  and  to  arrange  the 
hierarchy,  so  that  a  more  compact  and  consistent  superinten- 
dency  may  prevail,  as  was  the  original  purpose  of  creating 
bishops  and  archbishops,  whose  titles  imply  no  more  than 
that  of  surveyors,  inspectors,  or  stewards. 

The  archbishopric  of  Bogota,  which  was  constituted  in 
1561,  had  for  suffragans  Cartagena,  Santa  Marta,  Popayan, 
and  Merida.  The  cathedral  of  Bogota  had  in  its  establish- 
ment, prior  to  the  revolution,  sixteen  prebendaries,  and  three 
parishes,  but  whether  the  prebends  were  appropriated  provi- 
sions for  the  titularies,  or  salaried  officers  derived  from  the 
general  revenues  of  the  diocese,  I  could  not  learn.  The 
parishes  were, 

1.  N.  S.  de  las  Nueves.  2.  Santa  Barbara.  3.  San  Vic- 
torino. 

There  were  two  convents  of  the  order  of  St.  Dominic,  one 
called  of  Recolleccion  ;  the  other  N.  S.  de  las  Aguas. 

There  were  three  convents  of  St.  Francis : — 1.  That  in 
the  Plaza  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  2.  That  of  Vera 
Cruz.     3.  The  Recollets  of  St.  Diego. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  48fl 

There  were  two  convents  of  St.  Augustine,  one  of  which 
is  at  the  entrance  of  the  city  on  the  north  side  from  Tunja, 
which  is  called  a  hermitage,  I  presume  from  the  austerity  of 
their  vows,  and  is  dedicated  to  N.  S.  de  Egypto,  occupied 
by  the  monks  of  La  Merced.  The  other  is  that  whimsically 
placed  on  the  summit  of  a  steep  peak  in  the  rear  of  the  city, 
and  dedicated  to  N.  S.  de  Monserrat,  only  occasionally 
used  by  poor  innocent  fanatics. 

A  convent  of  La  Compania  Chiquita,  for  novices. 

A  convent  of  St.  Juan  de  Dios,  to  which  is  annexed  the 
charge  of  the  hospital  of  San  Pedro,  whose  benevolence  is 
truly  Christian,  and  admirable  for  its  good  works  towards 
the  wretched,  and  all  gratis. 

Four  monasteries  for  nuns — 1.  Concepcion ;  2.  Santa  Clara ; 
3.  Barefoot  Carmelites  ;  4.  Santa  Ines  de  Monte  Policiano. 

There  are  many  chapels,  such  as  those  of  Segrarias,  N.  S. 
of  Belen,  the  convent  of  N.  S,  de  las  Aguas,  Las  Cruces, 
and  San  Felipe. 

Annexed  to  the  ecclesiastical  establishments,  were  former- 
ly three  colleges : — 1.  Rosario,  founded  in  1652,  with  four 
fellowships,  and  privileges,  such  as  belonged  to  Salamanca 
in  Spain  ;  2.  St.  Thomas,  with  an  university  founded  in 
1621,  and  a  hbrary  established  in  1772 ;  3.  St.  Bartholo- 
mew, which  was  occupied,  in  1823,  by  the  national  library  be- 
fore noticed  ;  it  consists  of  the  library  of  the  celebrated  Mutis, 
and  a  number  of  others,  which  devolved  to  the  public  by  con- 
fiscation. I  spent  several  days  among  those  books.  There 
is  a  useless  abundance  of  that  species  of  learning,  which  has 
been  exploded  in  the  best  seminaries  of  Europe  ;  but  there 
was  a  great  number  of  precious  books,  appertaining  to  va- 
rious departments  of  American  history.  The  case  of  the 
Jesuits  on  their  expulsion  from  Paraguay,  I  found  there 
developed  in  several  volumes  pro  and  con.  This  library,  if 
it  be  faithfully  preserved,  and  the  most  meritorious  works 

62 


490  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  modern  times,  in  French,  Italian,  English,  and  German , 
added,  will  be  precious. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Visit  to  the  cataract  of  Taquendama — the  continuation  of  the  plain — illusive  ap- 
pearances.— Suacha  village. — Franciscan  Monastery — Fra.  Jerome — hospitable 
reception — sup  and  sleep  there — the  convent  and  church. — The  Funza  river. 
— Nitre  works — farm  of  Canaos — varying  landscapes — enter  the  forest — go 
astray  into  the  shaft  of  a  coal-pit — hear  the  cataract — feel  the  moisture  of  its 
vapours — steep  precipitous  winding  descent — reach  the  head  of  the  cataract — 
imperfect  description — no  guide — Humboldt. 

The  cataract  of  Taquendama  excites  the  curiosity  of  all 
visitors  to  Bogota  ;  Colonel  Todd  made  up  a  party,  in  which 
we  were  comprehended.  Besides  Colonel  Todd  and  his 
family,  Mr.  R.  Adams,  Senor  Rovero,  a  young  gentleman 
whose  hospitality  and  disposition  to  render  services  to 
strangers,  gives  his  name  a  deeper  hold  of  the  memory, 
several  officers  were  of  the  party,  altogether  about  ten  in 
number,  besides  domestics.  Colonel  Todd  had  provided 
some  refreshments  in  reserve,  which  those  who  visit  the  ca- 
taract should  do ;  and  Seiior  Rovero  had  also  made  some 
provision,  without  either  knowing  what  the  other  had  done. 
The  road,  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  cataract,  is  very  fine. 
We  left  the  city  about  nine  in  the  morning,  passing  south 
and  crossing  the  branch  of  the  mountain  stream  called  Rio 
St.  Augustin  ;  and,  leaving  the  suburb,  took  a  south-west 
direction  till  we  reached  the  skirt  of  the  lower  mountain 
that  protrudes  from  the  Sierra  Albaracin  to  the  Avestward, 
when,  winding  around  its  base,  the  plain  opened  to  the 
left  or  south-east,  and  to  the  right  or  south-west.     The  ap- 


rawn  dv  TSircTi  -fr'cvi 


F.Keamy  A^-^ 


FAILILS    OF  TA©iUEI«j)AMA 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  491 

pearance  of  this  plain,  and  its  resemblance  of  a  still  sea,  and 
islands,  and  promontories,  harbours,  bays,  and  bluffs,  like 
those  seen  on  the  coast  of  the  ocean,  are  very  striking.  There 
was  no  other  variety  but  the  sluggish  serpentine  movement 
of  the  Funza,  till,  at  the  end  of  nine  miles,  we  reached  the 
village  of  Suacha.  This  village  was  an  early  settlement  of 
the  Franciscan  order,  and  it  has  a  church  and  a  very  com- 
modious convent.  The  population  around  is  by  no  means 
such  as  would  seem  to  be  competent  to  sustain  a  church  and 
its  monastery ;  though  its  selection  indicates  a  considerable 
native  population  at  the  period  of  foundation,  which  have  re- 
moved to  positions  more  retired,  or  are  blended  with  the  nu- 
merous classes  of  industrious,  hard-working,  hardy  people. 
As  our  party  was  literally  a  party  of  pleasure,  we  laughed 
nearly  the  whole  way,  and  it  was  too  late  to  see  the  cataract 
when  we  reached  the  village  ;  seeing  no  signs  of  an  inn,  we 
rode  up  to  the  gate  of  the  Franciscan  convent,  which  was 
instantly  opened  to  us  by  a  brother,  whom  we  found  to  be 
a  native  Indian,  attached  to  the  convent,  and  in  its  costume  ; 
a  full  round-faced  jolly  friar,  of  much  civility  but  few  words. 
Our  horses  were  taken  caiC  of,  and,  after  being  seated  some 
time  in  a  room  adjacent  to  the  patioy  the  guardian  or  principal 
of  the  convent,  Fra.  Jerome,  and  who  is  also  the  guardian  of  die 
Franciscans  in  that  province,  waited  on  us  and  invited  us  to 
a  handsome  parlour.  His  deportment  was  that  of  a  gentleman 
conversant  with  society  ;  he  was  not  more  than  thirty-five  to 
forty  years  of  age,  without  any  appearance  of  austerity  or  re- 
serve ;  he  was  sociable,  intelligent,  and  liberal,  and  his  coun- 
tenance brightened  by  a  smile  of  which  he  did  not  seem  to  be 
conscious.  When  we  had  taken  our  seats,  on  some  of  the  best 
chairs  and  couches  I  had  seen  in  Colombia,  some  excellent 
Spanish  wine,  fruit,  sweet  pastry,  and  cakes,  were  introduced, 
and  we  spent  the  time  in  very  agreeable  conversation.  The 
portrait  of  the  guardian  was  suspended  on  the  wall,  and  the 


492  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

likeness  good;  I  inquired  where  it  was  executed;  he  told 
me  that  it  was  the  work  of  a  self-taught  native,  and  had  been 
presented  to  him  by  his  parishioners  as  a  testimony  of  their 
good  wishes,  and  added  gaily,  "  now  we  are  a  republic,  these 
little  testimonies  of  popular  favour  are  of  much  more  value 
than  they  would  have  been  in  former  times." 

When  night  came  on  the  apartment  was  quickly  well 
lighted,  and  about^T  o'clock  we  were  invited  to  the  refectory. 
Fussing  through  a  spacious  corridor,  we  entered  the  refec- 
tory, where  we  found  several  ample  tables,  sufficient  for  two 
hundred  guests,  one  of  which  was*  laid  out  with  viands 
adapted  to  our  taste.  Roast  fowls,  well- corned  pork,  vege- 
tables of  different  kinds,  and  good  bread ;  and  chocolate  of 
the  best  confecclon.  The  guardian  took  the  head  of  the  table, 
and  his  coadjutor  the  foot.  What  rendered  this  occasion 
remarkable,  was,  that  it  was  the  time  of  Lent,  when  animal 
food  is  prohibited  to  the  faithful ;  yet  he  sat  and  attended  to 
our  wants,  he  and  his  coadjutor  partaking  only  of  a  Hght  pa- 
nada or  gruel.  I  had  much  acquaintance  with  Franciscans 
in  my  early  years,  and  this  conduct  of  Fra.  Jerome  afforded 
me  so  much  more  pleasure  and  surprise,  as  it  was  a  proof, 
both  in  his  easy  deportment  and  gratuitous  kindness,  of  the 
liberality  of  the  guardian.  We  feasted,  without  scruple, 
upon  the  good  things,  and,  at  his  invitation,  moistened  our 
meal  with  potations  of  good  wine.  Their  beverage  the  water 
of  the  pure  fountain.  After  the  repast  we  returned  to  the 
parlour,  where,  after  about  an  hour  we  had  a  refresco  of  cho- 
colate, and  continued  in  conversation  till  about  nine  o'clock; 
when  the  generous  priest  completed  his  hospitable  cares.  A 
bed  for  each  individual,  with  neat  bedding,  and  a  separate 
apartment,  had  been  prepared  ;  and  he  conducted  each  to 
that  which  was,  by  his  own  arrangement,  intended  for  us. 
He  had  been  even  so  attentive,  while  he  assigned  a  neat 
apartment  to  my  daughter,  he  placed  me  in  the  chamber 
next  to  her.    It  is  not  necessary  to  say  how  agreeable  our 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  493 

entertainment  was.  A  message  arrived  in  the  night  from 
Bogota,  and  he  set  out  immediately,  not  affording  us  the 
opportunity  of  expressing  our  thanks.  When  we  arose  with 
the  dawn  our  horses  were  ready,  and  some  fine  chocolate, 
with  fresh  baked  cakes,  were  placed  before  us,  under  the  di- 
rection of  the  jolly  Indian  friar. 

The  village  of  Suacha  is  composed  of  houses  erected  with- 
out regard  to  regularity.  The  site  is  a  projecting  bank  or 
slope  from  the  mountain,  six  or  eight  feet  above  the  plain. 
The  church  forms  the  south  side  of  the  quadrangle  or  patio, 
its  west  end  on  the  road.  A  pair  of  ample  gates  opens  on  the 
north  end.  The  front  and  depth  being  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet ;  the  porch  or  entrance,  and  the  patio,  hand- 
somely paved.  Adjacent  to  the  north  side  of  the  quadrangle 
there  was  a  handsome  shrubbery  or  small  garden,  ornament- 
ed with  manv  curious  and  beautiful  shrubs,  and  on  the  eas^^ 
end  a  fine  pottagery.  The  establishment  bore  the  appearance 
of  a  recent  restoration  from  antecedent  ruin.  About  half  a 
mile  from  the  convent  south,  on  a  knoll  oi*  more  elevated 
bank  of  earth,  was  erected  a  nitre  factory,  which  had  been 
very  useful,  but  seemed  to  be  going  to  decay,  and,  as  it  was 
early  when  we  passed,  no  information  was  obtained  concern- 
ing it.  There  are  many  such  establishments  in  various  parts 
of  the  country,  but  not  well  managed. 

On  leaving  Suacha,  the  descent  is  considerable  and  long 
to  the  plain,  where  the  Funza  makes  its  involutions  so  fan- 
tastically, as  to  wind  round  and  approach  another  part  of  its 
own  channel,  forming  that  figure  which  in  heraldry  is  de- 
nominated nebule  ;  the  winding  of  the  current  often  leaving 
but  forty  or  fifty  feet  between  the  two  curves  :  the  breadth 
opposite  the  farm  of  Canaos,  about  four  miles  from  Suacha, 
is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  which  is  passed  upon 
a  bridge,  formed  of  great  piles  standing  in  the  river  about  ten 
feet  deep ;  beams  laid  across  the  river  upon  those  piles ;  a 
bed  of  faggots  laid  across  the  trees,  and  upon  which  a  bed 


494<  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  earth  and  gravel  is  well  beaten.  The  farm  of  Canaos 
stands  on  a  bank  more  elevated  than  Suacha,  about  thirty 
feet  above  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  is  supplied  with  water 
for  that  irrigation  which  produces  so  much  fertihty,  by  means 
of  a  horse-mill,  constructed  on  an  artificial  mound  of  mason- 
ry, over  which  tliere  is  an  ample  roof,  but  it  is  open  all 
round.  The  water  is  carried,  after  being  raised  in  spouts,  to 
an  elevated  position,  where  a  reservoir  is  constructed,  from 
which  the  water  is  skilfully  dispersed  all  round.  The  ground 
of  this  farm  gradually  rises  to  light  forests  more  elevated  in 
the  rear,  and  the  road  to  the  cataract  leaves  the  house  to  the 
left.  Cattle  of  every  kind  are  here  abundant,  and  the  track 
towards  the  falls  lies  over  low  verdant  hills,  with  trees  of  small 
stature,  and  small  clumps  and  thickets  dispersed  over  the  un- 
dulating green  hills.  The  birds,  which  are  neither  heard  nor 
seen  in  the  plain,  but  which  throughout  the  country  abound 
in  numbers  and  variety,  and  arrest  admiration  by  the  beau- 
tiful tints  of  their  plumage,  and  the  diversity  and  melody  of 
their  song,  were  now  very  numerous,  and  on  our  way  the 
lark  seemed  to  present  itself  on  the  path,  rise  into  the  air, 
and  execute  his  carol,  and  again  descend  upon  our  path.  I 
had  found  on  the  green  banks  along  the  road  the  daisy,  of  the 
species  perennis^  so  much  the  theme  and  ornament  of  Eng- 
lish pastoral  poetry.  But  we  soon  passed  that  region,  and 
made  a  long  gradual  descent,  when  the  plants  of  the  tropics, 
and  their  blue,  blue  and  gold,  green,  black,  red,  and  yel- 
low plumed  birds,  displayed  much  more  familiarity,  and  lit- 
tle fear  at  our  approach.  This  mountain  we  were  now  de- 
scending, yields  in  its  forests  the  celebrated  bark,  the  chinco- 
na  cordifoUa^  the  most  esteemed  of  which  is  said  to  be  found 
in  Loxa,  a  province  of  the  republic.  The  forest  trees,  as 
we  descended,  rose  with  loftier  heads  towards  the  heavens, 
and  assumed  a  greater  bulk  as  we  proceeded,  very  nearly 
south.  Vegetation  became  more  rich  and  luxuriant,  the  air 
more  warm,  but  not  unpleasant  nor  scorching ;  and   occa- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  495 

sionally  the  evidence  of  more  than  usual  population  and  hus- 
bandry were  conspicuous.  The  ranches  appeared  construct- 
ed, not  of  timber  as  where  the  daisies  grew,  but  of  the  bam- 
boo, where  the  ananas  and  bananas  flourished,  and  the  flowers 
spread  their  fragrance  around.  The  cotton  trees  appeared  like 
apple  orchards  in  full  blossom,  the  sugar-cane  and  its  vigor- 
ous stalks,  the  Palmyra  palm  and  its  clustered  cocoa  nuts 
were  not  in  thick  clumps  and  groves,  and  almost  forests,  as 
in  Hindustan,  but  standing  at  distances  like  the  centinels  of 
armies,  compared  with  the  multitudes  of  trees  around.  The 
orange  shewed  its  golden  coat,  and  a  bamboo  fence  marked 
the  cacao  plantation,  and  told  why  a  little  rivulet  bubbled 
to  the  ear,  and  stole  away  unseen. 

It  would  not  be  possible  for  a  stranger,  without  a  guide, 
to  wind  his  way,  after  passing  the  farm-house,  on  this  long 
plain  which  formed  a  shoulder  of  the  mountain.  We  had,  in 
fact,  nearly  gone  astray  after  entering  the  forest  beyond  the 
hamlets  we  had  passed.  A  person  at  Suacha  had  volun- 
teered his  services,  and  professed  to  be  perfectly  acquainted 
with  all  its  labyrinths ;  but  he  proved  to  be  either  an  idiot 
or  a  knave,  he  knew  nothing  of  the  place.  Having  reached 
a  point  in  the  forest,  where  riding  was  no  longer  practicable, 
Ave  arranged  so  that  our  horses  should  be  placed  at  the  near- 
est hamlet,  and  two  domestics  in  charge  of  the  supplies. 
Some  of  our  friends  from  Bogota  had  been  repeatedly  there, 
but  there  were  so  many  intersecting  paths,  leading  in  so  ma- 
ny directions  ;  the  forests  were  so  thick  and  lofty,  and  the 
roar  of  the  cataract  was  heard,  but  in  what  direction  was 
not  possible  to  determine,  as  it  changed  its  tone  frequently ; 
and  the  atmosphere,  which  was  darkened  by  the  volume  of 
its  vapour,  was  also  moist  and  chilly. 

Our  professed  guide  now  undertook  to  direct  us — he 
appeared  to  act  as  if  perfectly  at  home — I  imagine  I  see  him, 
and  he  was  no  bad  specimen  of  some  of  the  paisanos ;  he  had 
mounted  his  own  mule  at  Suacha,  and  he  was  an  object  of 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

some  amusement  to  the  Bogota  gentleman — he  wore  a  pair 
of  leather  breeches,  Avhich  were  originally  good,  but  which 
extended  to  his  muscular  calf  without  concealing  it.  On  his 
head  a  well  made  chip-hat,  a  good  platilla  shirt,  with  a  broad 
collar  that  hung  like  a  cape  over  his  shoulders,  and  both  tails 
of  his  shirt  appeared  to  give  him  great  pleasure  ;  they  were 
ornamented  with  needle- work  of  angular  shapes  and  Ibrms 
in  the  Indian  style  of  decoration,  and,  as  is  the  fashion,  hung 
over  his  leather  galligaskins  ;  a  pair  of  paragattas  completed 
his  personal  equipment.  After  a  descent  of  about  two  miles 
through  the  "  woods,  and  wilds,  and  solitary  glooms,"  we 
perceived  that  our  guide,  notwithstanding  his  eyes  were  as 
black  as  his  hair,  and  both  black  as  glistening  jet,  could 
not  see  his  way — and  he  very  frankly  gave  it  up.  Elizabeth 
and  myself  descended  a  path,  which  appearing  to  be  more 
beaten  than  one  adjacent,  we  followed  its  descent  by  holding 
against  trees,  and  reached  a  small  platform  much  trodden  ; 
a  dark  cavern  was  the  termination  of  this  path ;  it  was  the 
opening  of  a  coal  pit,  and  the  fragments  of  a  fine  fossil  coal 
were  at  the  mouth  of  the  shaft ;  we  clambered  back,  de- 
scended another  path,  and  found  another  coal- shaft. 

Our  company,  like  us,  had  dispersed  in  different  direc- 
tions, and  it  was  some  lime  before  our  sergeant,  under  the 
directions  of  one  of  our  friends,  led  the  way  :  had  there  been 
a  path  or  mark  of  human  foot,  we  might  have  found  the  de- 
scent less  laborious,  but  this  route  was  unfit  even  for  a  mule, 
and  the  goat  alone  could  descend  it  without  apprehension. 
Midway  down  we  found  a  flat  piece  of  clear  ground,  and  here 
we  directed  our  provisions  to  be  brought,  and  a  fire  lighted 
against  our  return  :  here  the  roar  of  the  cataract  became  very 
loud.  After  very  much  fatigue,  we  gained  a  sort  of  bram- 
ble-covered knoll,  from  which  we  could  disern,  in  the  south- 
east, a  very  spacious  Hacienda^  and  all  around  it  picturesque 
and  imposing,  beyond  the  Funza  and  above  the  falls — of 
which  we  Had  some  anecdotes — not  worth  narrating  ;  a  little 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  497 

farther  down  the  Funza,  behind  a  lofty  bluff,  opened  like  a 
lake  upon  the  view.  There  had  been  a  flood,  its  waters  ap- 
peared yellow  from  the  earth  through  which  it  had  stolen 
along  ;  here  we  gained  the  naked  bank  beneath  the  bluff,  and 
the  Funza  seemed  like  a  yellow  ribbon  to  the  north-east, 
setting  into  a  bason  of  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  gi- 
ving an  irregular  space  of  about  500  yards  broad.  There 
appears  to  have  been  a  broader  issue  to  the  cataract  than  at 
present :  considerable  quantities  of  broken  stone  have  been 
formed  into  a  bank,  which  is  carried  several  feet  into  the  bason 
above  the  margin  of  the  steep  ;  and  a  much  greater  encroach- 
ment has  been  made  on  the  debouche  on  the  opposite  side ;  so 
that  the  line  across,  over  which  the  water  throws  itself  head- 
long on  a  flat  rock  forty  feet  below  its  first  projection,  and  of 
about  the  same  width  ;  the  transverse  line  may  be  about 
twenty-four  feet ;  though  I  suspect  it  was  originally  as  broad 
as  the  stupendous  and  wonderful  chasm  into  which  it  falls  at 
the  second  bound.  No  painting  can  convey  any  adequate 
idea  of  this  extraordinary  work  of  nature  ;  and,  however  cir- 
cumstantial a  verbal  description  may  be,  the  idea  of  what  is 
there  seen,  cannot  be  but  imperfectly  expressed.  I  am  not 
at  all  surprised,  that  none  of  the  descriptions  I  had  read  of 
this  cataract,  conveyed  to  my  perceptions  any  thing  like 
what  it  really  is.  It  cannot  be  seen  with  advantage  at  one 
place ;  contiguous  to  the  first  bound  of  the  river,  the  bason 
above,  and  the  roll  of  the  flood  over  the  perpendicular  steep 
upon  the  vast  platform,  are  all  clearly  visible  ;  but  the  whole 
volume  of  the  stream  tumbling  to  the  deep  can  only  be  partially 
and  imperfectly  seen  there.  We  took  another  station  on  the 
north  side  of  the  chasm,  so  that  the  sun's  beams,  then  about 
eleven  o'clock,  crossed  the  line  of  the  cataract  obliquely :  from 
this  point  we  could  see  about  a  third  of  the  descending  vo- 
lume of  water  ;  but  we  could  not  perceive  the  bottom.  While 
we  stood  in  this  position,  this  sublime  object  was  never  perhaps 
seen  to  more  advantage.     The  water  was  discoloured  by  the 

63 


498  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

yellow  earth  over  \vhich  it  flowed ;  and  when  the  torrent 
dashed  upon  the  forty  feet  platform  beneath  it,  the  cloud  of 
vapour,  as  it  rose,  illumined  by  the  blaze  of  an  ardent 
sun,  gave  an  incessant  glow  of  brilliant  golden  glory.  De- 
scription by  no  means  conveys  a  sufficient  idea  of  the  object: 
it  seemed  a  halo  with  a  disk  of  floating  transparent  gold,  of 
perhaps  twenty  feet  diameter,  the  exterior  vapour  exhibiting 
prismatic  shades  incessantly  changing,  renewing  in  new 
forms,  and  on  the  outer  verge  condensing  in  drops,  which 
fell  in  shouers  like  tears.  The  mind  is  beguiled,  and  time 
passes  unfelt  in  the  intensity  of  admiration  and  awful  sub- 
limity of  this  spectacle,  which  on  every  aspect  presents  new 
beauties  and  astonishment.  Returning  to  the  verge  of  the 
cataract,  I  was  induced  to  place  myself  on  my  breast  to  look 
into  the  chasm,  and  I  succeeded  with  new  emotions  of  ad- 
miration. I  have  not  seen  Humboldt's  larger  work,  en- 
titled "  Researches  concerning  the  Institutions,  ^c.  with  de- 
scriptions and  views  of  striking  scenes  in  the  Cordilleras.^^ 
In  the  8vo  edition  in  French,  and  the  translation  by  H.  M. 
Williams,  Humboldt's  description  is  imperfect.  He  very 
properly  contradicts  the  account  of  Bouger,  which  gives  the 
chasm  a  depth  of  sixty  metres  French,  but  he  gives  it  a  depth 
of  175  metres;  which,  as  the  metre  is 39.37  inches  English, 
fifty  metres  would  give  196  feet  depth,  which  is  more  than 
Mutis  and  others  have  given.  Those  who  are  reputed  to 
have  measured  the  dep;h,  v.hich  is  by  no  means  diflScuIt, 
have  differed  from  three  to  eight  feet ;  but  the  average  of 
the  computations  gives  164  or  165  feet,  which,  as  far  as  my 
eye  is  competent  to  judge,  I  believe  to  be  near  the  true 
depth.  I  leaned  over  the  perpendicular  wall — for  it  is  to  all 
appearance  a  wall  of  regularly  wrought  and  horizontally  laid 
and  ranged  grey  grit  stone,  and  I  could  see  the  foam  of  the 
torrent  agitate  the  bason  below,  where  the  rocks,  rounded 
on  their  tops  by  the  beating  of  the  waters,  were  seen  as  if 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  499 

emerging  from  the  waves  of  foam,  like  the  play  of  otters, 
while  the  stream  of  the  torrent  itself,  brilliant  in  its  own  ac- 
tion, appeared  reduced  to  the  size  of  the  spout  from  a  fire 
engine.  Elizabetli  was  so  apprehensive  of  danger  when  I 
only  placed  myself  on  my  breast,  with  my  head  only  over 
the  side,  that  she  held  me  by  my  feet ;  but  Lieutenant 
Bache  stood  on  the  very  verge  with  folded  arms,  and  sur- 
veyed the  abyss  below  with  perfect  composure. 

But,  sublime  as  these  views  truly  are,  with  the  forests 
rising  on  each  side  from  the  crevice  into  lofty  sloping  hills, 
perhaps  the  most  extraordinary  peculiarities  are  yet  to  be  no- 
ticed. I  know  no  mode  by  which  the  idea  of  its  character 
and  figure  may  be  conceived,  but  that  of  the  reader  formnig 
to  himself  the  idea  of  a  gap  or  opening  in  the  face  of  a  moun- 
tain 200  feet  high,  and  about  60  feet  broad,  at  the  foot  of 
whichaflood  of  10  or  15  yards  broad  gushes  through  that  gap, 
at  the  height  of  more  than  7000  feet  above  the  ocean,  rolling 
over  rugged  precipices  till  it  unites  with  the  river  Tocayma, 
one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Magdalena.  This  is  the  aspect 
at  the  debouch  in  the  valley  below.  Ascending  then  to  the 
point  from  which  the  Funza  thus  issues,  and  entering  the 
crevice  from  its  west  or  open  end,  and  groping  along  the 
rocky  and  difficult  side  of  this  gap ;  the  overhanging  trees 
no  longer  cover  the  space ;  but  a  lane,  if  I  may  so  call  it,  of 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  long,  formed  by  two  walls  perpendicu- 
lar and  parallel,  induces  the  suprised  spectator  to  ask  if  these 
walls  be  not  the  work  of  art  ?  if  man  with  the  chissel  and  the 
hammer,  the  trowel,  the  level,  and  the  plumb  line,  have  not 
wrought  them  ?  Those  walls  stand  parallel,  and  distant  about 
50  feet,  and  about  170  feet  perpendicular  height ;  as  uniformly 
fair  on  their  faces  as  the  best  masonry  of  the  Capitol.  Their 
summits  are  only  the  feet  of  the  forests,  and  the  stream  that 
has  tumbled  as  it  were  from  the  great  storehouse  of  the 
heavens,  starts  from  the  body  of  the  foam,  as  if  frighted  by 
its  own  noise. 


500  VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA. 

But  there  is  still  another  extraordinary  feature  of  those 
walls.  In  looking  over  the  lofty  brink  from  above,  I  could 
discern,  by  a  dark  light  glimmer,  that  the  volume  of  the  water, 
in  its  plunge  over  the  mound,  on  the  table  of  its  first  bound, 
left  a  space  arched,  or  the  quarter  of  an  arc  beneath  ;  at  the 
second  bound  the  arching  was  not  so  forward  ;  either  the 
impulse  was  not  so  great  behind,  or  its  own  gravity  brought 
it,  after  a  curve  of  about  a  sixth  of  the  circle,  headlong  down, 
keeping  its  volume,  but  casting  out  its  brilliant  spray,  and 
forming,  by  its  action  on  the  air,  a  never-ceasing  shower;  the 
more  aeriform  vapour  rising  in  clouds,  and  making  a  play  of 
sunbeams,  with  alternately  refracted  and  suppressed  prisma- 
tic lights  over  the  abyss  below.  The  opportunity  of  seeing 
behind  and  beneath  the  column  of  the  cataract,  exposes  the 
structure  of  the  wall  over  which  it  pours  ;  and  adds,  by  the 
regularity  of  its  form,  to  the  wonders  of  this  place.  It  is, 
like  the  sides,  perpendicular,  and  meets  the  sides,  forming  as 
exact  rectangles  as  any  architectural  structure.  In  the  drawing 
that  accompanies,  prefixed  to  this  chapter,  it  is  attempted  to 
give  this  distinctness,  but  unsuccessfully ;  the  elevation  of 
the  side  walls,  their  parallel  length  of  three- fourths  of  a  mile, 
and  the  magnitude  of  the  column  of  the  cataract  at  that  dis- 
tance, could  be  but  imperfectly  expressed  by  the  pencil, 
even  on  an  ample  canvass.  The  reader  must,  therefore, 
from  the  data,  figure  to  himself  the  actual  magnitude  and 
masses,  and  the  facts  here  given  may  then  enable  him  to  form 
some  conception  of  this  extraordinary  work  of  the  Great  Ar- 
chitect of  the  universe. 


•# 


601 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Geographical  limits  of  Colombia — its  Spanish,  provincial,  ana  political  divisions — 
sketch  of  its  progressive  divisions — its  present  distribution  into  twelve  inten- 
dancies— into  provinces — cantons — parishes,  &c. 

Colombia,  as  a  nation,  has  become  so  conspicuous  in 
every  public  relation,  that  any  approximation  towards  a 
more  perfect  knowledge  than  has  been  heretofore  possessed, 
must  be  useful.  The  Spanish  territorial  system  was  mutable 
and  inconstant ;  the  policy  of  its  government,  both  from  its 
laxity  and  its  jealousy,  left  something  undone  or  imperfectly 
executed,  and  endeavoured  to  conceal  whatever  it  had  esta- 
blished. It  is  on  the  sea-line  alone,  with  very  few  points  of 
exception  in  the  interior,  that  the  limits  which  separated  the 
viceroyalty  of  New  Granada  from  Peru,  Brazil,  and  the  set- 
tlements of  other  nations  in  Guayana,  are  accurately  laid  down. 
Between  the  governments  of  Portugal  and  Spain  there  had 
been  an  age  of  ncgociation  and  disputation,  about  the  limits 
of  interior  regions,  which  fifty  generations  of  monarchs  could 
not  rationally  expect  to  see  or  hear  of  being  occupied  by  a 
civilized  population  ;  wilds,  and  forests,  and  fertile  plains  and 
valleys,  more  ample  in  their  extent  than  European  empires — 
rivers  larger  than  the  largest  of  Europe  or  Asia — soil  and 
climate  susceptible  of  every  species  of  cultivation  and  pro- 
duction, were  unquestionably  embraced  in  these  disputed 
regions,  but  disputed  only  for  the  gratification  of  that  avari- 
cious ambition  which  covets  possession  without  the  capacity 
for  enjoyment. 

As  the  new  condition  of  South  America,  and  its  partition 
into  seven  republics — and  probably  three  more  will  arise, 
and  divide  Brazil — must  continue  to  be  spoken  of  or  de- 
scribed by  reference  to  the  distribution  which  heretofore  pre 


503  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

vailed ;  and  as  the  changes  which  have  already  taken  place, 
and  which  must  continue  to  be  made,  under  the  representa- 
tive system,  which  carries  with  it  into  the  remotest  parts,  the 
necessity  of  knowledge  as  to  its  social  circumstances,  I  pro- 
pose here  to  give  a  brief  sketch  of  the  geographical  position 
and  bounds  of  Colombia,  and  ot  its  political,  civil,  military, 
and  ecclesiastical  relations. 

When  the  revolution,  which  had  been  for  more  than  thirty 
years  preparing,  had  developed  itsilf  spontaneously,  and 
about  the  same  period  in  the  same  year,  in  ail  parts  of  Spa- 
nish America,  the  countries  which  now  constitute  the  Re- 
public of  Colombia  consisted  of  two  distinct  governments — 
the  Viceroyalty  of  New  Granada,  and  Venezuela,  or  the 
Captain-generalship  of  Caracas.  Colombia,  which  redeems 
the  honour  that  was  filched  from  the  great  discoverer  by 
Vespucius,  by  assuming  his  name,  had  a  peculiar  right  to 
render  that  act  of  justice.  The  two  points  of  continental 
territory  first  discovered  by  Columbus,  are  within  its  limits. 
He  entered  the  gulf  of  Paria  by  the  strait  called  the  Dragon's 
Mouth,  on  the  first  of  August,  1498,  the  most  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  republic,  and  sailed  thence  along  a  considerable 
part  of  the  coast  westward.  In  his  fourth  voyage,  in  1503,  he 
discovered  the  country  from  Cape  Gracios  a  Dios  to  Vera- 
gua,  the  most  western  point  on  the  Atlantic  waters.  The 
discovery  of  those  rich  countries  produced  no  other  acqui- 
sition to  Spain  than  the  renown  attached  to  their  reputed 
riches  and  their  extent.  Charles  V,  reduced  to  necessity  by 
ambitious  wars,  consigned  to  the  Welsers,  a  mercantile  house 
of  Augsburg,  in  payment  of  a  debt,  the  regions  embraced 
in  these  first  discoveries  of  Columbus  ;  and  the  history  which 
succeeds,  under  the  terrible  misrule  of  those  miscreants,  pre- 
sents a  melancholy  picture  of  human  depravity,  when  heated 
by  the  impulses  of  avarice,  and  which  was  endured  until 
1550;  in  all  which  time  the  riches  of  the  soil  and  products 
of  agriculture  were  disregarded,  in  the  fruidess  search  of  gold. 
The  captain-generalship  was  then  established. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  503 

In  1728,  a  grant  or  privilege  was  given  of  those  regions, 
for  purposes  of  commerce  and  agriculture,  to  a  company 
formed  at  Guipiscoa  in  Spain ;  but,  though  there  was  some 
approach  to  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  this  possession  by  Spain 
was  yet  a  drain  from  the  resources  of  Mexico,  which  defray- 
ed the  expenses  of  the  government  of  Venezuela.  The  ac- 
cession of  the  celebrated  Galvez  to  the  ministry  of  Spain  was 
productive  of  great  and  lucrative  changes  in  the  administra- 
tion of  the  Indies,  as  the  Spaniards  were  accustomed  to  de- 
nominate their  possessions  in  America.  A  system  which 
separated  the  fiscal  concerns  from  the  political  authority,  in 
imitation  of  that  of  France,  was  introduced  in  1777,  under 
the  same  denomination  of  intendancies  ;  which,  though  it 
gave  a  greater  security  and  better  knowledge  of  the  revenues, 
rendered  little  benefit  to  the  country,  and  none  to  the  popu- 
lation, for  under  this  system  accumulating  abuses  and  op- 
pressions, rivalling  the  most  barbarous  periods  of  history , 
affected  the  captain-generalship  of  Caracas,  which  continued 
to  suffer  till  the  revolution,  when  a  convulsion,  less  sanguinary 
and  cruel  than  the  cold  and  silent  misrule  of  Spain,  put  an 
end  to  its  domination  and  its  abuses.  The  country,  under 
various  modifications  and  distributions  of  local  jurisdiction 
and  regulation,  comprehended,  in  1810,  the  provinces  which 
will  be  noticed  after  giving  a  similar  sketch  of  the  viceroyalty 
of  New  Granada. 

The  countries  which  subsequently  composed  this  viceroy- 
alty, were  explored  soon  after  the  discovery,  by  Ojeda  and 
Nicuessa,  Nunez  de  Balboa,  Benalcazar,  and  Quesada,  and 
held  under  a  fluctuating  authority.  In  1718,  New  Grenada 
was  constituted  a  viceroyalty,  but  in  1724  it  was  again  re- 
duced to  a  dependence  upon  Peru,  in  which  state  it  conti- 
nued till  1740,  when  the  viceroyalty  was  once  more  established, 
and  comprehending  Quito  and  Guayaquil  under  its  jurisdic- 
tion. Caracas  was  founded  in  1566  by  Losada  ;  Bogota  in 
1538,  by  Quesada.     The  various  political,   military,  civil, 


504* 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA, 


juridical,  and  ecclesiastical  authorities  were,  at  the  breaking 
out  of  the  revokition,  as  follows  : — 

ANCIENT  SPANISH  PROVINCES. 


JVew  Grenada, 

Venezuela. 

Antioquia, 

Caracas, 

Cartagena, 

Cumana, 

Choco, 

Guayana, 

Cuenca, 

Merida, 

Casanarc, 

Maracaybo, 

Darien, 

Varinas, 

Cundinamarca, 

Barcelona, 

Guayaquil, 

Coro, 

Maynas  and  QuLxos, 

Margarita, 

Neyba, 

Los  Llanos. 

Jaen  de  Brocomoros, 

Panama, 

Quito, 

Popayan, 

Rio  Hacha, 

Santa  Marta, 

Veragua, 

Pamplona, 

Tunja, 

Socorro, 

Mariquita. 

The  political,  civil,  military,  and  ecclesiastical  establish- 
ments, were  frequently  varied ;  and  hence  it  is,  that  no  two 
books,  nor  the  accounts  of  any  two  persons,  ten  years  apart, 
bear  any  consistent  agreement.  The  following  are  the  ar- 
rangements of  authority  in  1810: 


JVew  Grenada. 

Venezuela. 

Attdiencias 

,  C     Bogota 

Caraccas. 

or  High  Courts  ^     Quito. 

f     Bogota, 

Guayra, 

Military  com 
siakderies 

1      Cartagena, 
V      Boccachica, 
Porto  Bello, 
^     Chagres. 

Porto  Cabello, 

Barcelona, 

Coro. 

Inteitdanct— 

(none) 

Caracas, 

Archbishoprics — Bogota, 

Caracas, 

'Antioquia, 

Merida, 

Cartagena, 

Maracaybo, 

Cuenca, 

Guayana. 

Bishoprics — 

<{  Maynas, 
Panama, 
Popayan, 
LQuito. 

MlHTS— 

C  Bogota, 
Z  Popayan, 

Caracas,  (for  a  local  coarse  cur- 

rency). 

VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  505 

JVew  Grenada.  Venezuela. 

pi  rCartagena,  Barcelona, 

£  J  Chagres,  Cumana, 

g     Atlantic«(  Porto  Bello,  Guayra, 

f»  I  Santa  Marta,  Angostura  of  Guayana, 

m  l^Rio  Hacha,  Margarita, 

«       Pacific  5^  ^"*y*^"'''  Maracaybo. 

o       ^**^^°«^  Panama.  Puerto  Cabello. 

By  the  fundamental  law,  passed  by  the  constituent  con- 
gress at  Cucuta,  18th  July,  1821,  it  is  declared  that  the  ter- 
ritory of  Colombia  comprehends  all  that  was  within  the  an- 
cient boundaries  of  the  Captain  generalship  of  Venezuela 
and  the  Viceroyalty  of  New  Granada.  The  territorial  limits 
are  those  recognised  by  the  Spanish  government,  The 
divergency  of  the  line  of  coast  on  the  ocean  is  sufficiently 
marked ;  but  the  separation  from  Brazil,  the  Guayanas,  and 
some  parts  of  the  Peruvian  boundary,  are  yet  undetermined. 
It  was  presumed  until  1824,  that  the  north-west  boundary  of 
Veragua  was  the  extremity  of  the  Colombian  territory;  but 
a  decree  of  the  Spanish  monarch,  issued  at  the  Escurial  in 
1803,  declared  the  whole  coast  of  ancient  Terra  Firma  from 
Cape  Gracios  a  Dios,  (which  embraces  all  that  coast  called  by 
the  British  the  Mosquito  Shore,)  belongs  to  the  jurisdiction 
of  New  Grenada.  It  is,  however,  probable,  that  the  Colom- 
bian government  had  political  motives,  very  honourable  to 
their  sagacity,  in  asserting  this  claim,  and  that,  having  accom- 
plished its  purpose,  the  territory  north  of  Veragua  will  be 
recognised  as  part  of  Guatimala,  to  which  it  appertained  un- 
der the  aboriginal  rule.  This  claim  would,  if  maintained, 
bring  reproach  upon  the  Colombian  republic,  besides  dis- 
putes and  ill  blood,  as  the  looseness  of  the  royal  decree  would 
admit  of  a  construction  that  would  cover  Costa  Rica,  if  not 
the  principal  part  of  Nicaragua. 

Taking  the  geographical  points  in  positions  different  from 
what  has  been  heretofore  usual,  by  a  transverse  line  east  and 
west,  commencing  at  the  debouche  of  the  Oronoco,  in  9  deg. 
20  min,  north,  and  60  deg.  10  min.  west,  and  carrying  it 

64 


506  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

along  the  plane  to  the  bay  of  St.  Miguel,  in  the  bay  of  Panama, 
in  8  dcg.  30  min.  north,  and  78  deg.  10  min.  west ;  this 
line  of  18  deg.  of  longitude,  may  serve  as  a  base  of  dimen- 
sions. Drawing  another  line  ix;rpendicular  to  and  crossing 
this  north  and  south,  commencing  at  Cape  Vela,  in  the  Car- 
ribbean  Sta,  in  12  dcg.  20  min.  north,  and  passing  on  the 
plane  to  St.  Nagri,  on  the  Maragnon,  in  4  deg.  20  min. 
south,  we  have  a  medium  length  of  the  republic,  of  16  deg. 
of  latitude  :  and  as,  beneath  the  equator,  the  degrees  of  lati- 
tude and  longitude  do  not  materially  differ,  for  a  general  view 
we  have  1,090,000  square  miles  of  60  to  the  degree,  which 
is  still  considerably  under  the  true  amount. 

The  distribution  of  provincial  jurisdiction  has  undergone 
some  partial  changes  since  the  formation  of  the  constitution 
of  1821  :  Quito  was  separated  at  an  early  stage  into  two 
provinces,  called  Assuay  and  Quito.  Barbacoas,  on  the  Pa- 
cific, was  separated  into  two  provinces,  and  the  department 
of  the  Apure  was  formed  of  a  part  of  the  plains  formerly 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  Caracas  :  the  territorial  names  have 
also  undergone  some  changes ;  the  department  of  which 
Tunja  was  the  head,  has  been  denominated  Boyacca,  and 
that  of  Maracaybo  has  taken  place  of  Zulia  ;  but  a  more  ge- 
neral and  particular  distribution  was  carried  into  operation 
in  1823-4,  by  which  the  whole  territory  of  the  republic  is 
divided  into  twelve  intendancies  or  departments,  and  subdi- 
vided into  provinces,  cantons,  and  parishes.  The  following 
is  the  detail  now  most  recent  and  authentic  : 

Departments,  Provinces,  &.c. 

The  Senate  and  Chamber  of  Representatives  of  the  Colom- 
bian Republic,  assembled  in  Congress,  having  considered — 

1.  That  the  territory  of  the  republic  should  have  a  regu- 
lar division  of  the  departments  and  provinces,  in  regard  to 
extent  of  territory  and  population,  so  as  to  afford  every  con- 
venience for  the  easy  and  prompt  administration  of  the  go- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  507 

vcrnment  in  all  its  branches,  and  so  contribute  to  the  public 
happiness ;  in  conformity  with  the  8th,  20th,  26th,  27th, 
and  29th  articles  of  the  constitution,  have  decreed  : 

Article  I.  The  whole  territory  of  the  republic  shall  be  di- 
vided into  twelve  departments,  and  the  capitals  thereof  shall 
be  as  follows : 


1.  Orinoco, 

chief  place  Cumana. 

2.  Venezuela, 

Caracas. 

3.  A  pure. 

Barinas. 

4.  Zulia, 

Maracaybo 

5.  Boyacca, 

Tunja. 

6.  Cundinaraarca, 

Bogota. 

7.  Magdalena, 

Cartagena, 

8.  Cauca, 

Popayan. 

9.   The  Isthmus, 

Panama. 

10.  The  Equator, 

Quito. 

11.  Assuay, 

Cuenca. 

12.  Guayaquil, 

Guayaquil. 

These  twelve  departments  comprehend  the  following  pro- 
vinces and  cantons : 

Art.  II.  Orinoco. 

1.  Cumana,  chief  place  Cumana. 

2.  Guayana,  Angostura. 

3.  Barcelona,  Barcelona. 

4.  Margarita,  '                  Asuncion. 

§  1.  The  cantons  of  the  province  of  Cumana  and  its  chief 
places  are : 

1.  Cumana.  4.  Maturin.  7.  Rio  Caribe. 

2.  Cumanacoa.  5.  Cariaco.  8.  Guiria. 

3.  Aragua  Cumanes.     6.  Carupano, 

§  2.  The  cantons  of  Guayana  and  its  dependancies  are : 

1.  Angostura.  6.  Caroni. 

2.  Rio  Negro  and  its  dependancy  Atabapo.  7.  Upati. 

3.  Alto  Orinoco  and  its  do.  Caicara.  8.  I,a  Pastora. 

4.  Caura  and  its  do.  Moitaco.  9.  La  Barceloneta. 

5.  Guayana  Viejo. 

^  3.  The  cantons  of  the  province  of  Barcelona  and  depen- 
dancies are : 

1.  Barcelona.        4.  Aragua. 

2.  Piritu.  5.  Pao! 

3.  Pilar.  6.  San  Diego. 

§  4.  The  cantons  of  Margarita  and  dependancies  are : 

X.  La  Asuncion,  2.  El  Norte. 


508  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Art.  III.  The  department  of  Venezuela  comprehends  the 
provinces  of 

1.  Caracas,  chief  place  Caracas. 

2.  Carabobo,  Valencia. 

§  1.  The  cantons  of  Caracas  are  : 

1.  Caracas.  5.  Sabana  de  Ocumare.        9.  San  Sebastian. 

2.  Guayra.  6.  La  Victoria.  10.  Ipirc. 

3.  Caucagua.  7.  Maracay.  11.  Cliag^uararoa. 

4.  Riu  Cbico.  8.  Cuia.  12.  Calabozo. 

k  2.  The  cantons  of  Carabobo  are : 

1.  Valencia.  4.  San  Carlos.  7.  Carora. 

2.  Puerto  Cabello.    5.   San  Felipe.  8.  'lucuyo. 

3.  Nirgua.  6.  Barquisimcto.  9.  Quibor. 

Art.  IV.  The  department  of  Apure  comprehends  the  pr^>- 
vinces : 

1.  Barinas.  4.  Guanarito.  7.  Guanare.  10.  Pedraza 

2.  Obispos.  5.  Nutrias.  8.  Ospinos. 

3.  Mijagual.  6.  San  Jaime.  9.  Araure. 

^  1.  The  cantons  of  Apure  are  : 

1.  Achapuas.  3.  Manteca). 

2.  San  Fernando.  4.  Guasdualito. 

Art.  V.  The  department  of  ZuHa  comprehends  the  pro- 
vinces of 

1.  Maracaybo,  chief  place  Maracaybo. 

2.  Coro,  Coro. 

3.  Merida,  Merida. 

4.  Trujillo,  Trujillo. 

^  1.  The  cantons  of  Maracaybo  are  : 

1.  Maracaybo.        3.  San  Carlos  de  ZuUa.        5.  Puerto  AJta  Gracia. 

2.  Perija.  4.  Gibraltar. 

§  2.  The  cantons  of  the  province  of  Coro  are  : 

1.  Coro.  3.  Paraguana,  chief  place  Pueblo  Nuevo. 

2.  San  Luis.  4.  Casigua.  5.  Cumarebo. 

^  3.  The  cantons  of  the  province  of  Merida  are  : 

1.  Merida.  3.  Ejido,  5.  La  Grita.  7.  Tachira. 

2.  Mucuchies.       4.  Bayladores.      6.  San  Cristoval. 

\  4.  The  cantons  of  the  province  of  Trujillo  are  : 

1.  Trujillo.  3.  Bocono. 

2.  Escuque.  4.  Carache. 

Art.  VI.  Boyacca  comprehends  the  provinces  of 

1.  Tunja,  chief  place  Tunja. 

2.  Pamplona,  Pamplona, 

3.  Soccoro,  Soccoro. 

4.  Casanare,  Pore. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  509 

^  1.  The  cantons  of  Tunja  are: 

1.  Tunja.  5.  Sogoraoso.  9.  Suata. 

2.  Leiva.  6.  Tensa  y  Guatoque,  10.  Tumerque. 

3.  Chinchinquira,  7.  Cocuy.  11.  Garagoa. 

4.  Muzo.  8.  Santa  Rosa. 

■)  2.  The  cantons  of  Pamplona  are  : 

1.  Pamplona.  4,  Salazar.  7.  Jiron. 

2.  St.  3os6  de  Cucuta.    5.  Concepcion.  8.  Bucaramanga. 

3.  Rosario  de  Cucuta.     6.  Malaga.  9.  Pie  de  Cuesta. 

)  3.  The  cantons  of  Soccoro  are : 

1.  Soccoro.  4.  Charali.  6.  Valez. 

2.  San  Gil.  5.  Sapatoca.  7.  Moniquira. 

3.  Barichara. 

^  4.  Casanare  cantons  are  : 

1.  Pore.        3.  Chire,  at  present  Tame.  5,  Macuco. 

2.  Arauca.    4.  Santiago,  at  present  Taguana.  6.  Nunchia. 

Art.  VII.  Cundinamarca  comprehends  the  provinces  of 

1.  Bogota,  chief  place  Bogota. 

2.  Antioquia,  Antioquia. 

3.  Mariquita,  Honda. 

4.  Neiva,  Neiva. 

§  1.  The  cantons  of  Bogota  are  : 

1.  Bogota.  5.  Fusagasuga.  9.   Ubate. 

2.  Funza.  6.  Caquesa.  10.  Choconta. 

3.  Meza.  7.  San  Martin.  11.  Guaduas. 

4.  Tocaima.  8.  Zipaquira. 

^  2.  The  cantons  of  Antioquia  are  : 

1.  Antioquia.         3.  Rio  Negro.         5.  Santa  Rosa  de  Osos. 

2.  Medellin.  4.  Marinilla.  6.  Nordest  y  Remedios. 

^  3.  The  cantons  of  Mariquita  are  : 

1.  Honda.  3.  Ibagu^. 

2.  Mariquita.  4.  La  Palma. 

^  4.  The  cantons  of  Neiva  are : 

1.  Neiva.  3.  La  Plata. 

2.  Purificacion.  4.  Timani. 

Art.  VIII.  The  department  of  Magdalena  contains  the 
provinces  of 

1.  Cartagena,  chief  place  Cartagena. 

2.  Santa  Marta,  Santa  Marta. 

3.  Rio  Hacba,  Rio  Hacha. 

^  1.  The  cantons  of  Cartagena  are  : 

1.  Cartagena.  6.  El  Carmen.  11.  Lorica. 

2.  Baranquilla.  7.  Tolu.  12.  Mompox. 

3.  Soledad.  8.  Chinu.  13.  Majagual. 

4.  Mahates.  9.  Magaugue.  14.  Simiti. 

5.  Corosal.  10.  San  Benito  Abad  15.  Islas  de  St.  Andres. 


510  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

§  2.  The  cantons  of  Santa  Marta  are  : 

1.  Santa  Marta.         3.  Ocafia.  5.  Tamaljimeque. 

2.  Valle  Dupar.        4.  Plato.  6.  Valencia  dc  JcBoa. 

^  3.  Tlie  cantons  of  Rio  Hacha  are : 

1.  Rio  Hacha.  2.  Cesar,  chief  place  Juan  de  Cesar. 

Jrt.  IX.  Tlie  department  of  Cauca  comprehends  the  pro- 
vinces of 

1.  Popayan,  chief  place  Popayan. 

2.  Choco,  Quibdo. 

3.  Pasto,  Pasto. 

4.  Buenaventura,  at  present  Iscuande. 

§  1.  The  cantons  of  Popayan  are  : 

1.  Popayan.  5.  Roldanillo.  9.  Tulua. 

2.  Aimaqucr.  6.  Huga.  10.  Toro. 

3.  Caloto.  7.  Palmira.  11.  Supia. 

4.  Cali.  8    Cartago. 

§  2.  The  cantons  of  Choco  are: 

1.  Atrato  y  Quibdo.  2.  San  Juan  y  Novita, 

\  3.  The  cantons  of  Pasto  are  : 

1.  Pasto.  2.  'luquerris.  3.  Ipiales. 

§  4.  The  cantons  of  Buenaventura  are  : 

1.  Iscuand^.  3.  Tumaco.  5.  Raposo,  at  present  La  Cruz 

2.  Barbacoas.  4.  Micay  y  Guapi. 

jlrt.  X.  The  department  of  the  Isthmus  comprehends  the 
provinces  of 

1.  Panama,  chief  place  Panama. 

2.  Veragua,  Veragua. 

§  1.  The  cantons  of  Panama  are  : 

1.  Panama,  3.  Chorreras.  5.  Los  Santos. 

2.  Porlo  Belo.  4.  Natd.  6.  Yabisa. 

^  2.  The  cantons  of  Veragua  are : 

1.  Santiago  de  Veragua.  3.  Alanje. 

2.  Meza.  4.  Gaimi  y  Remedies. 

Jrt.  XL  The  department  of  the  Equator  contains  the  pro- 
vinces of 

1.  Pinchincha,  the  capital  Quito. 

2.  Imbabura,  Ibarra. 

3.  Chimborazo,  Riobamba. 

^  1.  The  cantons  of  Pinchincha  are  : 

1.  Quito.  3.  LaTacunga.  5.  Esmcraldas. 

2.  Machachi.  4.  Quijos. 

§  2.  The  cantons  of  Imbabara  are  : 

1.  Ibarra.  3.  Cotacachi. 

2.  Otabalo.  4.  Cayambe. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

^  3.  The  cantons  of  Chimborazo  are  : 


511 


1.  Riobamba. 

2.  Ambato. 


3.  Guano. 

4.  Guaranda. 


5.  Alausi. 

6.  Macas. 


Art,  XII.  The  department  of  Assuay  comprehends  the 
provinces  of 

1.  Cuenca,  chief  place  Cuenca. 

2.  Loja,  Loja. 

3.  Braca.inoros  y  Mainas,  Jaen. 

&  1,  The  cantons  of  Cuenca  are : 

1.  Cuenca.  3.  Gualaseo. 

2.  Cafiari.  4.  Jiron. 

^  2.  The  cantons  of  Loja  are  ; 

1.  Loja.  3.  Carimanga. 

2.  Zaruma.  4.  Catacocha. 

,  ^  3.  The  cantons  of  Bracamoros  y  Mainas  are : 

1.  Jaen.  2.  Borja.  3.  Joveros. 

Art,  XIII.    The  department  of  Guayaquil  contains  the 
provinces  of 

1.  Guayaquil,  chief  place  Guayaquil. 

2.  Manabi,  Puerto  Viejo. 

§  1.  The  cantons  of  Guayaquil  are  : 

1 .  Guayaquil.  3.  Babahoyo.  5.  Punta  de  Santa  Elena. 

2.  Daule.  4,  Baba.  6,  Machala. 

h  2.  The  cantons  of  Manabi  are  : 

1.  Puerto  Viejo.        2.  Jipijapa.  3.  Monte  Cristi. 


DEPARTMENT  LAW. 

Art.  XIV.  Those  cantons  are  noticed  as  coming  within 
the  constitutional  provisions  of  Art.  8,  20,  26,  27,  and  29 ; 
but  those  which  come  under  the  authority  of  political 
judges,  and  the  administrators  of  the  public  treasury,  may 
be  united  two  or  more  cantons  to  form  a  circuit,  under 
the  authority  of  one  political  judge. 

Art*  XV.  To  each  of  the  cantons  designated  in  this  law, 
not  having  municipalities,  through  the  loss  of  population  or 
other  causes,  the  executive  power  will  provisionally  unite 
two  or  more  next  adjacent,  and  make  it  known  to  congress 
in  conformity  with  Art.  155  of  the  constitution ;  but  with- 
out prejudice  to  those  cantons  whose  territory  may  be  too 


012  VISIT   TO    COLOMBIA. 

extensive  for  their  population ;  two  or  more  political  judges 
shall  be  established  by  the  executive. 

Art.  XVI.  But  the  heads  of  cantons  which  exist  with  a 
municipality,  can  regulate  and  act  according  to  this  article. 

Consequently  where  there  shall  be  erected  and  are  erected 
new  heads  of  those  cantons,  according  to  the  actual  exist- 
ence of  parishes ;  and  the  executive  power  having  been 
augmented  with  the  legal  requisites,  the  books  of  correspon- 
dence, title,  and  papers  of  the  first  class,  and  the  seal  of  the 
secretary. 

Art.  XVII.  The  executive  power  to  fix  provisionally  the 
limits  of  cantons  created  by  this  law.  Those  of  the  pro- 
vinces and  departments,  according  to  the  best  judgment 
possessed.  The  executive  power,  nevertheless,  shall  consult 
the  maps,  and  provide  the  best  information  for  congress. 

Art.  XVIII.  The  province  of  Caracas  is  separated  from 
that  of  Carabobo,  by  a  line  commencing  at  the  eastern  ter- 
mination of  the  parish  of  Cuyagua,  thence  by  a  direct  line 
from  the  sea  to  Punta  Cabrera,  on  the  lake  of  Valencia,  and 
continued  by  a  line  thence  to  the  town  of  Magdalena,  west 
of  the  Villa  de  Cura,  and  by  Calabozo  to  the  Apure,  com- 
prehending in  this  province  the  cantons  which  are  designa- 
ted under  Article  IV. 

Art.  XIX.  The  new  province  of  Carabobo,  which  is  com- 
posed of  the  territory  marked  as  above,  preferring  those 
bounds  before  actually  possessed  in  relation  to  other  provin- 
ces, such  as  Guanare,  Ospinos,  and  Aurare,  which  apper- 
tain to  Varinas,  having  for  limit  the  passage  of  the  river 
Coxede  at  Caramacate,  of  the  new  province  of  Carabobo. 

Art,  XX.  The  Department  of  Quito  corresponds  in  its 
boundaries,  which  separate  it  from  those  of  Cuenca  and 
Guayaquil,  and  on  the  litoral  from  the  port  of  Atacames  to 
near  the  embouchure  of  Esmeraldas,  thence  to  the  mouth 
of  Ancon,  the  meridional  limit  of  the  province  of  Buena- 
ventura, on  the  coast  of  the  South  Sea. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  513 

Art.  XXI.  The  new  province  of  Manabi,  in  the  depart- 
ment of  Guayaquil,  occupies  that  part  of  the  territory  of 
Esmeraldas  of  which  the  coast  extends  from  the  Rio  Co- 
lonche  to  Atacames,  inclusive.  In  the  interior,  having  for 
limits  those  which  formerly  separated  this  part  of  Esmeraldas 
from  the  province  of  Quito. 

Art.  XXII.  The  department  of  Cauca  is  divided  from 
that  of  the  Equator,  by  the  limits  which  separate  the  pro- 
vince of  Popayan  on  the  river  Carchi,  which  serves  to  mark 
the  limits  of  the  province  of  Pasto. 

Art.  XXIII.  The  new  departments,  which  have  not  sent 
senators  and  representatives,  will  elect  them  at  the  approach- 
ing assemblies  of  the  people ;  and  the  new  provinces,  in  the 
mean  time,  may  hold  their  assemblies  at  the  places  last  occu- 
pied until  the  arrangement  shall  be  entirely  completed. 
Dated  Bogota,  23d  June,  1824. 

Jose  Maria  del  Real,  Fres.  of  Senate, 
Jose  Rafael  MosquERA,  V.  P.  H.  of  Rep. 

Antonio  Jose  Caro,    ^  i,,r     l  jo       .     ■ 

Josh  Joa^uim  Sitaeez,  ^  ^""*^"  ""^  Secretaries. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Meeting  of  first  representative  congress— in  March,  1823— their  mode  of  pro- 
ceeding— peculiar  forms  of  communication  from  the  executive — unrnean* 
ing  titles  and  epithets  discarded— vice-president's  message — report  of  the 
minister  of  foreign  relations — interesting  as  an  historical  epitome— congress  of 
Panama— its  objects— relations  with  European  states— treatment  of  agents  to 
Spain— congress  of  Aix-la-Chapelle. 

The  first  popularly  elected  congress  of  Colombia,  was  to 
have  assembled  at  Bogota,  in  January,  1823  ;  it  had  not  yet 
proceeded  to  business  when  I  arrived,  on  the  3d  of  February, 

65 


514  VISIT  TO  COLOMUIA. 

and  it  was  some  time  in  March  before  there  was  such  a 
number  of  each  Iiouse  as  was  deemed  requisite  to  proceed 
with  becoming  regard  to  the  authority  to  be  exercised  in 
public  business.  Quito,  and  Pastos,  and  Guayaquil,  though 
within  the  political  power  and  connexion  of  the  republic, 
had  not  yet  sent  representatives.  But  they  were  expected, 
and  some  arrived  before  the  session  had  made  much  pro- 
gress. My  inclinations,  and  the  business  in  which  1  was 
engaged,  made  me  a  frequent  spectator  and  auditor  of  the 
proceedings;  and,  although  there  were  some  members  who 
had  never  before  seen  any  other  elective  body  than  a  cabildoy 
such  was  the  facility  and  order  of  the  proceedings  from  be- 
ginning to  end,  that,  if  I  had  not  been  aware  that  it  was  a 
first  session  of  a  new  national  legishitnrc,  1  should  have 
supposed  they  had  been  convcrs;int  with  the  transaction  of 
business  in  deliberative  assemblies,  from  their  earliest  years. 
The  forms  of  proceeding,  generally,  resembled  those  of  the 
United  States,  but  with  some  modes  of  the  French  assem- 
blies, derived,  I  suppose,  from  the  Spanish  cortes,  such  as 
the  transactions  usual  to  our  permanent  secretary  of  Senate 
and  House  of  Representatives,  were  performed  here  by  mem- 
bers of  the  body,  nominated  by  the  presiding  officer  in  each 
house.  The  President,  elected  from  their  own  body  by  the 
Senate,  was  General  Urdancta,  and  1  could  not  but  admire 
the  self-possession,  preparedness  in  the  duties,  and  the 
promptness  with  which  matters  of  order  were  decided.  The 
only  circumstances  that  appeared  to  me  characteristically  dif- 
ferent from  deliberations  in  Congress  at  Washington,  was, 
that  as  the  speaking  members  in  the  United  States  are  more 
numerous  than  in  the  British  Parliament,  so  at  Bogota  they 
were  more  numerous  in  relation  to  the  number  of  the  cham- 
ber, than  in  Washington  ;  but  as,  at  Washington,  speeches 
were  made  as  if  length  was  to  determine  the  degree  of  ex- 
cellence, while  at  Bogota,  with  perhaps  the  language  best 
•adapted  to  eloquence,   there  was  a  conciseness  and   brevity 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  515 

which  enabled  the  auditor  to  retain  the  subject  of  discussion 
without  perplexity,  or  the  confusion  inevitable  where  there 
is  an  excessive  expenditure  of  words. 

As  this  was  an  opening  of  the  great  legislating  power  of 
the  republic,  it  was  necessarily  to  be  expected  that  a  state  of 
the  nation  would  be  presented  by  the  different  functionaries 
who  occupied  the  departments  of  the  interior,  of  foreign  af- 
fairs, the  treasury,  the  army,  and  navy.  The  practice  in  re- 
lation to  these  functionaries  differs  from  that  of  the  United 
States  and  of  Great  Britain.  The  heads  of  departments  are 
not  members  of  either  house,  but  when  they  report  to  con- 
gress they  attend  in  person,  read  their  own  communications, 
and  have  seats,  in  order  to  be  able  to  answer  any  inquiries  that 
may  be  made  at  the  time  of  delivery,  and  do  explain  and  an- 
swer exceptions  in  such  cases  orally.  Whether  this  be  the 
result  of  a  special  law  or  a  regulation  I  do  not  at  present  re- 
collect, but  I  believe  it  to  be  an  established  form  ;  and  it  is 
unquestionably  judicious,»the  secretaries  having  there  no 
other  privilege  than  to  make  explanations. 

These  communications  were  delivered,  and  they  were  so 
full  and  particular,  that  no  labour  of  private  inquiry  could 
bring  together  so  ample  a  body  of  authentic  matter.  On  the 
threshold,  however,  a  question  of  form  arose;  it  was  pro- 
pounded by  the  vice-president  to  this  effect : — What  shall 
be  the  form  by  which  the  executive  shall,  in  its  communica- 
tions, address  the  chambers  of  congress  ?  This  question  in 
both  houses  served  to  mark  the  measure  of  their  intelligence. 
I  did  not  hear  the  debate  in  the  house  of  representatives, 
where  I  understood  a  member  proposed,  that  the  presiding 
officer  should  be  addressed  your  majesty,  w\\\c\\  produced  a 
great  deal  of  pleasantry ;  in  the  senate  there  was  no  doubt  on 
the  subject ;  it  was  decided  in  five  minutes,  that  no  title  dif- 
fering from  the  forms  of  civility  between  man  and  man  should 
be  admitted — that  no  title  could  be  superior  to  that  of  a  ci- 
tizen, and  it  was  determined  that  the  presiding  officer  of 


516  VISIT  TO  COLOMUIA. 

each  house  should  be  addressed  without  any  preposterous 
honourable  or  excellency^  but  by  simple  seiior,  sir,  or  Mr. 

As  the  communications  from  the  vice-president  and  heads 
of  departments  would  of  themselves  make  a  respectable  vo- 
lume, and  that  of  the  treasury  was  not  presented  until  after  I 
had  left  Bogota,  I  shall  give  here  such  an  abstract  as  will  an- 
swer all  the  purposes  of  general  information,  and  afford  an 
authentic  view  of  the  state  of  the  republic  at  the  commence- 
ment of  1823. 

The  vice-president  St.  Ander's  message,  was  presented 
the  17th  April,  1823 — year  13  of  the  republic  ;  that  of  the 
secretary  of  exterior  relations,  Pedro  Gual,  the  same  day ; 
the  report  of  the  minister  of  the  war  department,  P.  Bri- 
ceno  Mendez,  on  the  military  establishment,  18th  April. 
Another  on  the  naval  department,  dated  the  13th :  both 
departments  being  at  present  distributed  into  separate  bu- 
reaux, under  the  same  chief.  The  report  of  the  minister  of 
the  interior,  Jose  Manuel  Rostrtpo^  was  presented  on  the 
22d  of  April,  and  that  of  the  minister  of  finance,  J.  M.  Cas- 
tillo, on  the  5th  of  May,  1823. 

The  executive  message,  as  well  as  those  from  the  other 
departments,  were  all  printed  previous  to  delivery,  and  pre- 
sented to  the  members  in  their  seats  as  soon  as  they  were 
respectively  read.  The  vice-president  denominates  the  body 
he  addressed,  the  Second  Congress  of  Colombia,  referring  to 
that  body  which  had  met  at  Cucuta,  in  1821-2,  which  framed 
the  present  constitution,  as  the  first.  The  topics  discussed 
were  the  efforts  made  to  put  an  end  to  the  contest  with  Spain, 
by  amicable  means,  alluding  to  the  mission  sent  to  Madrid, 
in  consequence  of  the  truce  and  treaty  of  armistice  concluded 
by  president  Bolivar  with  Morillo,  near  Truxillo,  in  1820;  in 
which  he  states  that  the  agents,  Messrs.  Ravenga  and  Zea, 
were  dismissed  under  disgraceful  pretexts ;  and  that,  in  de- 
fiance of  the  truce,  the  Spanish  fieet  was  reinforced,  while 
that  of  the  Republic  was  rendered  by  good  faith  inactive : 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  517 

that  as  there  was  no  further  hope,  no  overture  would  there- 
after be  received,  of  \Vhich  the  preliminary  was  not  an  ex- 
plicit acknowledgment  of  the  independence  of  the  Republic. 

Allusions  are  made  to  the  Congress  to  be  assembled  at 
Panama  to  give  consistence,  solidity,  and  a  perpetual  gua- 
rantee to  the  independence  of  all  the  states  of  the  new  world  : 
notice  of  the  transactions  connected  with  General  O'Donohu 
and  Iturbide  in  Mexico ;  the  magnanimous  recognition  of  Co- 
lombian independence  by  the  United  States  of  North  Ame- 
rica, and  the  presence  of  a  special  agent  (Colonel  Todd)  then 
in  Bogota.  He  expressed  the  principles  of  good  faith  which 
will  be  observed  towards  all  nations.  That  the  Portuguese 
monarch  had  acknowledged  Colombian  independence  also ; 
and  that  Scnor  Echeverria  had  been  designated  to  a  diplo- 
matic mission  to  Lisbon,  to  adjust  boundaries ;  but  that  the 
death  of  this  respectable  citizen  had  prevented  it,  as  well 
as  delayed  a  mission  to  which  he  was  destined,  to  the  court 
of  Rome,  in  relation  to  ecclesiastical  affairs ;  but  that  another 
should  be  sent. 

That,  in  conformity  with  the  fundamental  law,  three  new 
departments  had  been  annexed  according  to  an  organic  law 
of  October  2d,  1821,  passed  at  Cucuta,  they  having  been 
rescued  from  the  power  of  Spain  by  the  army  under  the 
liberator  ;  and  that  in  these  three  new  departments,  as  well  as 
the  pre-organised  seven,  the  constitution  and  laws  were  esta- 
blished and  respected ;  the  glory  of  fields  of  battle,  the  lights 
of  philosophy,  the  ministry  of  the  altar,  the  influence  of  merit, 
reputation,  and  all  the  virtues  uniting  in  love  and  devotion 
to  the  constitution. 

The  predatory  marauding  and  plunder  of  Morales  on  the 
coast,  is  noticed  as  the  last  agonies  of  disappointment  and 
despair ;  but  that  they  had  been  productive  of  much  private 
injury,  and  affected  the  treasury  materially,  already  exhausted 
by  a  long  exterminating  war. 

Education,  literary  institutions,  agriculture,  commerce, 


Si8  VISIT  TO  CULOMBIA. 

are  recommended  to  legislative  guardianship ;  and  the  fiscal 
concerns  are  specially  referred  to,  and  in  providing  new  re- 
sources he  recommends  the  abrogation  of  the  Mcsada  eclcsi- 
astica  anualidadesy  and  the  Media  anata^  to  which  the  clergy 
were  subjected. 

He  recommends  attention  to  the  foreign  public  debt,  the 
extinction  of  the  principal,  and  the  payment  of  the  interest. 

He  then  congratulates  Congress  on  the  comparison  of  the 
past  with  the  present ;  when  Congress  sat  at  Cucuta,  in  1821, 
Carthagena  and  Cumana,  the  isthmus  of  Panama,  and  Quito, 
were  in  the  hands  of  Spanish  forces ;  Core  was  agitated  by 
Spanish  emissaries,  and  Guayaquil  threatened  with  a  cruel 
anarchy;  Maracuibo  was  occupied  by  a  superior  force ;  Merida 
and  Truxillo  menaced  ;  an  insurrection  produced  by  Spanish 
agents  in  Santa  Marta ;  all  reversed,  and  the  enemy  every 
where  expelled. 

He  recommended  the  more  perfect  organization  of  the  army 
and  militia ;  and  a  provision  for  the  disabled  soldiers,  the 
widows  and  orphans  of  those  who  shed  their  blood  for  the 
public  liberties ;  and  provision  for  the  naval  force. 

The  report  of  P.  Gual,  minister  of  foreign  affairs,  is  a 
brilliant  and  an  able  production  ;  and  must  suffer  by  any 
abridgment;  the  heads  are  all  that  will  be  attempted.  It 
opens  by  congratulating  Congress,  that  in  the  midst  of  an 
unexampled  war,  of  twelve  years'  duration,  the  rights  of 
neutrals  have  been  protected,  and  with  fewer  complaints  than 
could  have  been  expected  under  all  circumstances ;  notwith- 
standing some  governments  had  not  pursued  the  same  liberal 
course.  The  principles  recognised  by  the  treaties  of  West- 
phalia and  Utrecht,  and  the  treaties  that  have  grown  out  of 
more  recent  events,  were  in  frequent  contradiction ;  the  go- 
vernment of  Colombia  had  therefore  formed  a  common  rule 
of  conduct— that  of  not  granting  a  privilege  to  any,  which  it 
would  not  yield  to  all.  The  result  has  been  entirely  sue- 
cessful :  the  heads  discussed  are,  1.  The  American  States. 
2.  United  States.  3.  Europe.  4.  Spain. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  519 

The  abdication  by  Ferdinand  VII.  in  1808,  was  the  sig- 
nal of  separation  between  the  authority  of  Spain,  and  the  dc- 
pendance  of  South  America ;  from  that  period  soldiers, 
philosophers,  legislators,  magistrates,  and  ministers  have,  with 
alternate  success  and  defeat,  constantly  contended  for  in- 
dependence ;  all  have  been  tried  and  proved  in  the  school  of 
adversity  ;  and  in  despite  of  inexperience  in  the  art  of  war,  pro- 
digies of  valour  and  triumph  have  fulfilled  their  hopes  and 
wishes.  The  geographical  position  of  Colombia  made  it, 
on  the  part  of  Spain,  the  rendezvous  of  her  troops,  destined 
to  re-establish  the  terrible  colonial  system.  Colombia  was 
the  advanced  guard  of  the  new  world,  and  in  expending  her 
own  blood  she  has  saved  that  of  her  co-states,  and  fixed 
their  union  in  policy  and  interest  for  ever. 

While  the  triumphs  of  Colombia  resounded  throughout 
the  civilized  world,  the  rest  of  the  family  of  the  same  descent 
were  either  prostrate  or  distracted.  Mexico  by  a  strange  per- 
version became  an  empire  ;  Peru  was  delivered  by  the  arms 
of  Chili  and  La  Plata,  and  submitted  to  a  protectorate  (under 
St.  Martin) ;  Guatimala  however  declared  for  a  republic;  and 
Colombia  accomplished  what  the  fundamental  law  had  pre- 
ordained, by  carrying  the  olive  with  the  fasces  of  victory,  to 
Quito  and  Guayaquil :  and  this  happy  moment  was  seized 
to  carry  into  efiect  a  great  American  federative  system,  in 
which  the  sovereignty,  independence,  and  laws  of  each  state 
should  not  only  be  secured  to  itself,  but  guaranteed  against 
the  whole  world — upon  the  following  terms. 

1.  The  American  states  to  be  confederate  perpetually,  in 
peace  and  war,  and  to  guarantee  liberty,  independence,  and 
the   integrity  of  their  several  territories. 

2.  The  utiposidetis  of  1810,  according  to  the  demarca- 
tion of  each  viceroyalty  under  Spain,  and  of  each  captain- 
generalship,  to  be  the  boundary  of  each  sovereign  state,  erect- 
ed under  the  constitutions  or  laws  of  the  new  states. 


520  VISIT    TO    COLOMBIA. 

3.  The  personal  rights  of  citizens  in  commerce,  naviga- 
tion, without  distinction  of  persons,  to  be  the  same  in  person, 
property,  trade,  foreign  and  domestic,  in  every  slate,  as  to  the 
state  to  which  they  belong,  or  as  belongs  to  the  citizens  of 
the  state  they  reside  or  travel  in. 

4.  An  assembly  to  be  held  at  Panama  of  two  plenipoten- 
tiaries from  each  state,  to  serve  as  a  point  of  contact  in  com- 
mon dangers,  the  interpreters  of  treaties,  and  arbitrators  and 
mediators,  incase  of  any  dispute  or  difference. 

5.  This  treaty  of  perpetual  alliance  and  confederacy,  not 
to  interfere  with  the  sovereignty  of  any  of  the  states,  in  regard 
to  foreign  nations. 

The  usurpation  of  Iturbide,  by  disturbing  Mexico,  post- 
poned this  congress,  which  was  intended  to  assemble  in 
1823.  It  was  required  of  Mr.  Santamaria,  minister  of  Co- 
lombia at  Mexico,  to  recognize  the  new  emperor,  though  he 
had  no  instructions — (which  he  declined,  and  was  thereupon 
ordered  to  depart) — events  justified  the  good  sense  of  San- 
tamaria. 

In  the  United  States,  the  people  from  the  beginning  have 
been  in  constant  sympathy  with  South  America,  and,  in  1822, 
the  government  formally  acknowledged  the  independence 
of  Colombia ;  an  effect  in  a  great  measure  due  to  the  talents, 
inteliigf  nee,  and  zeal  of  Senor  Manuel  Torres,  our  charge 
des  affairs,  whose  knowledge  enabled  him  to  enlighten  the 
government  on  the  interests  which  should  render  both  na- 
tions dear  to  each  other.  He  survived  only  to  the  14th  July 
of  that  year,  to  whom,  as  successor,  Jose  Maria  Salazar  has 
been  appointed  minister  plenipotentiary. 

In  this  state  of  affairs.  Colonel  Charles  Todd  arrived  in 
December  1822,  with  a  special  commission  communicating 
the  recognition  of  independence. 

In  Europe,  the  court  of  Lisbon  was  the  first  to  recog- 
nize the  independent  governments  of  New  America,  by  its 
agent  Juan  Manuel  Figuereido,  in  a  note  dated  11th  August, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  5S1 

1821,  to  the  minister  of  Chile,  and  by  a  communioation  of 
Silvestre  Pilinero  y  Fereira,  minister  of  state  to  the  king  of 
Portugal,  made  it  known,  by  a  copy  of  his  instruction,  of  16th 
April,  1821.  In  consequence  of  which  Jose  Tiburcio  Eche- 
verria  was  appointed  to  proceed  to  Lisbon,  but  prevented  by 
his  death.  The  changes  in  Brazil  since  that  period  are  no- 
ticed, and  no  certain  results  were  known. 

As  early  as  1811,  the  Grand  Chancellor  Romanzoff  inti- 
mated to  the  agent  in  London,  that  the  emperor  of  all  the 
Russias  had  come  to  the  resolution  to  admit  our  flag  into  all 
his  ports  on  the  same  footing  as  other  neutrals.  France,  the 
Netherlands,  and  the  King  of  Sweden,  have  com.e  to  the 
same  resolution,  and  Sweden  has  a  consul  general,  (Lorich,) 
now  in  Bogota,  for  the  purpose  of  concluding  a  provisional 
commercial  arrangement,  which  will  be  laid  before  the  legis- 
lature. 

In  almost  all  parts  of  Europe  the  Colombian  flag  is  re- 
spected; the  laws  for  encouraging  our  marine,  passed  at 
Cucuta,  have  contributed  to  this  effect.  An  act  of  naviga- 
tion is  wanting.  The  friendship  of  Great  Britain  is  of  great 
importance ;  many  of  her  people  have  crossed  the  sea  to  aid 
in  our  struggle :  the  parliament  declared  its  ports  would  be 
open  to  our  flag,  27th  April,  1822.  [Here  are  some  ani- 
madversions on  the  transactions  of  Mr.  Zea,  a  matter  of  cu- 
rious history,  but  too  ample  for  this  work.] 

Of  Spain. — This  of  all  governments  appears  to  be  the 
only  one  ignorant,  that  a  nation  destitute  of  every  thing,  with- 
out manufacturing  industry,  whose  fertile  soil  is  abandoned 
to  sterility,  and  which  knows  not  the  means  of  improving 
its  own  condition,  or  extricating  itself  from  the  state  of 
poverty  and  debasement,  consequent  on  subjection  to  an  ar- 
bitrary government  for  centuries ;  who  could  not  see  that  the 
extension  of  the  constitutional  system  of  Cadiz  to  the  ancient 
possessions  in  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and  America,  was  a 
perfect  illusion. 

66 


522  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  treaties  concluded  at  Truxillo,  26th  November,  1820, 
after  so  many  years  of  slaughter  and  devastation,  held  forth 
the  prospect  of  a  better  disposition.  On  that  day  General 
Pablo  Morillo  presented  himself  at  Santa  Ana,  invested  with 
full  powers ;  he  greeted  the  Republic  of  Colombia  and  her 
illustrious  president ;  and  two  treaties,  one  for  an  armistice  of 
six  months,  the  other  for  regulating  the  mode  of  warfare  con- 
sistent with  civilization,  were  agreed  upon  and  ratified.  The 
formality  of  this  ncgociation,  the  decorous  and  dispassionate 
language  of  the  Spanish  commanders,  promised  the  most 
happy  results ;  and  Messrs.  Jose  Rafiiel  Ravenga  and  Jose 
Tiburcio  Echeverria  were  dispatched  for  Madrid,  with  full 
powers,  dated  at  Bogota,  24th  January,  1821.  Two  months 
of  the  armistice  had  expired,  and  full  powers  were  given  to 
procure  a  prolongation  of  the  armistice,  but  it  was  not  ob- 
tained, and  the  ministers  embarked  at  Laguayra,  in  the  Span- 
ish frigate  Arethusa,  24th  March,  and  landed  at  Cadiz,  14th 
May,  1821. 

A  very  different  language  from  that  held  at  Santa  Ana  as- 
sailed them  at  Madrid,  from  persons  known  to  be  connected 
vi'ith  the  court.  A  new  amnesty  had  been  promulged  for 
those  whose  triumphant  assertion  of  their  independence  was 
the  theme  of  universal  admiration.  The  plenipotentiaries, 
notwithstanding,  reached  Madrid  30th  May.  But  not  only 
the  ministers  were  found  to  be  animated  by  bad  faith,  but 
the  general  on  Terra  Fmna^  (who  succeeded  Morillo)  Gene- 
ral Miguel  La  Torre,  demanded  new  reinforcements,  as  is 
proved  by  his  correspondence  with  the  minister  of  the  Colo- 
nies in  February  and  March,  1821. 

It  was  not  long  after  the  departure  of  the  plenipotentiaries 
that  the  perfidy  of  the  Spanish  authorities  was  discovered  by 
the  government  of  Colombia ;  but,  willing  to  believe  that 
the  court  of  Madrid  would  not  be  influenced  by  the  same 
passions  as  its  agents,  the  discovery  was  permitted  to  re- 
main unnoticed,   until  it  was  found  that  nothing  was  to  be 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  52S 

hoped  from  Madrid ;  and,  in  consequence,  notice  was  given, 
and  the  hostilities  were  renewed,  28th  April,  1821.  Our 
minister  then  in  Spain.  Their  first  and  last  interview  did 
not  take  place  with  Seiior  Azara,  Secretary  of  State,  till  the 
5th  Tune,  and  was  a  mere  dry  uninteresting  conversation. 
The  plenipotentiaries  soon  saw  that  nothing  was  to  be  done. 
If  any  doubt  could  have  remained,  a  Report  from  the  minis- 
ter of  the  Colonies,  Don  Ramon  Gil  y  Cuadra,  to  the  Cortes, 
of  1st  March,  1821,  which  treated  of  the  Lazarettoes, 
Schools,  the  Secretary's  department  of  Spanish  America,  and 
other  silly  details,  as  if  their  armies  were  triuj;nphant,  and 
the  country  in  their  complete  subjection  ;  and  a  report  of 
the  committee  of  the  Cortes,  on  4th  June,  equally  absurd, 
left  no  room  for  doubts. 

A  meeting  of  deputies,  on  24th  June,  affected  to  discuss 
the  subject  thoroughly,  but  the  influence  of  the  ministers 
prevented  them,  if  really  so  disposed.  A  plan  of  regencies 
was  agitated,  which  ministers  secretly  abetted.  Messrs. 
Ravenga  and  Echevcrria,  immediately,  in  pursuit  of  their- 
duty,  transmitted  to  the  minister  a  copy  of  the  fundamental 
law.  The  ordinary  Cortes  were  dissolved  30th  June,  when 
the  monarch  declared,  "  that  the  Spaniards  of  both  hemis- 
pheres might  be  assured  he  would  maintain  the  integrity  of 
the  monarchy  in  both  hemispheres." 

Meantime,  calumnious  invectives  were  cast  forth  on  the 
plenipotentiaries  of  the  republic,  who  nevertheless  remained 
in  Madrid  till  the  1st  September,  on  which  day  they  received 
a  note,  dated  30th  August,  accusing  the  republic  of  the  in- 
fraction of  treaties  ;  their  passports  accompanied,  intimating 
that  they  must  not  delay  their  departure.;  and  this  was  also 
announced  in  the  public  papers ;  and  a  popular  tumult  ha- 
ving on  the  20th  August  assailed  General  Morillo,  then  at 
Madrid,  an  attempt  was  made  to  implicate  them  in  it.  They 
therefore  simply  replied  to  the  note,  and  left  Madrid  in  thir- 
ty-six  hours  after  receiving  it,  and  having  reached  Bayonne 


524  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

on  the  14th  September,  they  rephed  by  a  statement  of  facts, 
to  the  various  allegations  ;  one  of  which  referred  to  the  revolt 
of  the  people  of  Maracaibo,   during  the  armistice.      The 
people  there  had  risen  against  the  oppression  they  experi- 
enced ;   the  military  commandant,  next  adjacent,  was  called 
upon  by  the  people,  and  consented  to  the   act ;  President 
Bolivar,  upon  hearing  of  this,  ordered  the  arrest  of  the  officer, 
(Colonel  Heras)  and  submitted  to  the  Spanish  general  a  re- 
presentation, and  proposed  to  let  the  merits  of  the  question 
be  arbitrated  by  the  Spanish  brigadier,  Ramon  Correa  ;  and 
in  fact  it  apyeared,  that  hostilities  were  not  renewed  until 
twenty-six  days  before  the  cessation  of  the  armistice,  when 
a  contingency  providtid  for  by  the  14th  article  of  the  treaty 
of  truce,  and  the  first  law  of  nature,  demanded  it. 

Nothing  but  the  same  species  of  inane  measures  succeed- 
ed at.  Madrid.  The  Cortes,  13th  February,  1822,  requested 
the  king  to  authorise  persons  to  present  themselves  to  the 
new  governments  in  America ;  on  the  5th  March  a  decree 
Avas  issued,  which  the  minister  of  the  colonies  received  on 
the  31st,  and  the  general  of  the  Expeditionary  Army  15th 
April,  1822,  up  to  the  18th  May  following,  did  not  re- 
ceive advice  of  the  appointment  of  Jose  Sartorio,  and  John 
Barry,  to  ncgociate  with  the  Colombian  government.  Mean- 
while, in  pursuance  of  the  fourth  article  of  the  royal  decree 
of  13th  February,  1822,  Ferdinand  VIl.  addressed  a  mani- 
festo to  the  courts  of  Europe,  declaring  that  Spain  would 
consider  as  an  infraction  of  treaties,  the  recognition  of  any 
of  the  American  states.  A  copy  of  this  document,  authenti- 
cated by  M.  Clemencin,  reached  the  government  only  after 
a  long  lapse  of  time  ;  and  the  intendants  of  the  maritime  de- 
partments received  instructions  thereupon  the  19th  May ; 
but  no  consequence  followed.  But  on  the  28th  June,  the 
Cortes  authorised  the  king,  to  proceed  on  measures  to  recon- 
cile the  colonies,  and  to  conclude  provisional  agreements 
with  the  American  governments,  and  that  commerce  should 
continue  uninterrupted.  But  these  measures  did  not  deceive. 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  525 

In  .September,  and  October  last,  the  Spanish  commander 
(Morales)  at  Maracaibo,  issued  two  extraordinary  decrees. 
By  one  he  annulled  the  treaty  concluded  with  Morillo,  re- 
gulating the  conduct  of  war  upon  the  principles  of  civiliza- 
tion, indicating  thereby  a  renewal  of  former  outrages  and 
massacres.  By  the  other  he  condemns  to  confiscation,  to 
hard  labour  on  the  public  works,  and  to  death,  persons  sub- 
jects of  neutral  powers,  found  in  the  provinces  he  may  oc- 
cupy. It  becomes  the  government  to  repel  such  actions 
with  energy.  By  this  conduct  of  the  general,  the  declara- 
tions of  tlie  royal  manifesto  receive  their  true  interpretation. 

Up  to  February  and  June  1822,  the  Spanish  government 
has  attributed  the  revolution  to  a  capricious  love  of  change, 
and  not  from  a  desire  to  be  happy.  America  has,  during  thir- 
teen years  of  a  war,  commenced  in  the  desire  to  shake  off 
despotism,  and  to  seek  happiness  in  a  free  government,  con- 
tinued in  defence  of  existence,  and  threats  of  extermination ; 
America  has  succeeded,  and  Spain,  after  all  the  massacres  she 
has  committed,  is  compelled  to  drain  the  cup  of  bitterness 
to  its  dregs.  She  must  endure  her  vicissitudes — Colombia 
is  disposed  to  peace  and  concord  with  a  people  who  speak 
the  same  language. 

In  the  United  States,  and  in  all  Europe,  excepting  Spain, 
the  government  is  satisfied  with  the  neutrality  they  professed 
and  maintained.  Neither  have  the  importunities  of  the  mon- 
arch of  Spain,  at  the  Congress  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  to  engage 
them  to  assist  in  our  resubjection,  been  successful.  The 
executive  has  founded  its  foreign  policy  on  three  principles  : 
1.  Perpetual  alliance  and  confederation  among  the  powers 
engaged  in  the  war.  2.  Uniformity  of  conduct  towards  neu- 
trals.  3.  The  application  of  all  the  elements  of  offence 
and  defence  against  the  enemy,  until  compelled  to  seek 
peace. 


526  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Report  of  minister  of  interior — new  order  of  things — publication  of  constitu- 
tion— the  laws — executive — departmental  administration— provinces— cantons 
— cabildos— notaries -riglits  of  the  aborigines — resguardaa  abolished — educa- 
tion of  aborigines — pohcc — pubhc  health — goitre — vaccination — hospitals- 
poor-houses — naturahzation — internal  commerce — weights  and  measures 

roads — inland  navigation— agriculture  and  arts — monies — public  education — 
administration  of  justice — tribunals  of  commerce — liberty  of  the  press — eccle- 
siastical affiiirs— bishops — regular  clergy — suppressed  convents — missions- 
clerical  patriotism. 

The  Report  of  Jose  Manuel  Restrcpo,  the  Secretary  of  the 
Interior,  or  Home  Department,  scarcely  admits  of  abridgment, 
and  it  presents  so  clear  and  comprehensive  a  view  of  the  inter- 
nal affairs  of  the  Republic,  that  no  individual  enquiries  could 
produce  such  a  variety  of  important  facts.  He  observes  that 
little  more  than  a  year  had  elapsed  since  the  constitution  went 
into  operation,  and  the  charge  of  the  organic  laws  devolved 
upon  the  executive ;  the  executive  had  been  assiduously  en« 
gaged  in  fulfilling  what  the  legislature. intended,  the  prosperity 
of  the  people.  Habits,  usages,  and  customs,  which  had  be- 
come inveterate  under  the  colonial  state  ;  abuses  grown  into 
custom  during  thirteen  years  of  disasters  and  war ;  the  very 
existence  of  war ;  prejudices  fostered  from  tender  years,  and, 
above  all,  the  Gothic  spirit  and  structure  of  Spanish  legisla- 
tion, which  has  been  overturned,  but  not  obliterated,  by  the 
revolution,  have  interposed  obstacles  to  the  efforts  of  the 
executive.  Many  of  those  evils  have,  indeed,  disappeared, 
or  been  modified  to  a  milder  character  by  measures  of  the  ex- 
ecutive, but  others  await  the  prudent  hand  of  the  legislator, 
the  operation  of  time,  and  the  influence  of  liberty  and  inde- 
pendence, to  remove  them  altogether. 

Charged  by  the  duty  of  office,  to  report  the  progress  made 
in  the  home  department  of  the  executive,  the  mode  of  ad- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  527 

ministration,  the  provisions  and  decrees,  and  the  defects  and 
impediments  which  have  presented  themselves  in  the  pro- 
gress already  made ;  there  shall  be  exhibited  to  congress 
what  relates  to  the  executive,  the  police,  the  means  taken 
to  promote  public  prosperity,  the  administration  of  justice, 
and  ecclesiastical  affairs;  and  such  improvements  in  each 
branch  as  the  executive  would  recommend.  Congress  will 
do  concerning  them  what  is  consonant  with  justice,  policy, 
and  reason,  so  as  to  promote  the  happiness  of  the  jxiople, 
the  sole  end  of  government. 

Section  I.  Of  the  Government. — The  publication  of 
the  constitution  and  laws  was  the  first,  and  an  agreeable 
duty.  A  decree  of  20th  September,  year  11,  (1821,)  de- 
termined the  manner  and  the  oath  to  be  administered  to 
public  functionaries :  and  within  the  two  last  months  of 
1821,  and  the  first  of  1822,  the  constitution  was  received 
in  all  the  departments  and  provinces,  undisturbed  by  the  pre- 
sence of  the  enemy,  and  sworn  to  by  all  persons  in  the  pub- 
lic service,  cabildos,  and  tribunals ;  and  their  promulgation 
everywhere  received  with  public  rejoicings,  and  the  appro- 
bation of  the  people.  The  municipal  body  of  Caracas, 
however,  alone  thought  fit  to  publish  a  protest  against  the 
oath,  an  act  which  the  government  found  it  to  be  its  duty 
to  censure,  and  submission  followed. 

At  the  moment  of  promulgating  the  constitution,  the  pro- 
vinces of  the  important  isthmus  of  Panama  shook  off  the 
yoke  of  Spain,  by  a  spontaneous  act  of  the  people,  and  vo- 
luntarily united  themselves  to  the  republic  ;  and  the  consti- 
tution and  laws  being  sent  to  them  as  they  desired,  they 
were  sworn  to  and  promulgated  with  enthusiasm.  The 
Spanish  authorities  in  the  isthmus  entered  into  certain  ca- 
pitulations with  the  people,  which  prevented  the  effusion  of 
blood ;  the  executive  has  respected  those  laudable  acts,  and 
the  documents  will  be  laid  before  congress. 


5S8  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Quito  has  also  given  proofs  of  its  attachment  to  the  re- 
publican  constitution ;  and  the  arms  of  the  republic,  after 
many  obstinate  combats,  have  compelled  the  Spanish  armies 
in  that  department  to  surrender.  The  provinces  of  Loja, 
Cuenca,  and  the  once  populous  city  of  Quito,  finding  them- 
selves already  free,  spontaneously  tendered  their  devotion  to 
the  constitution,  which  unites  the  ancient  Viceroy alty  of  New 
Granada,  and  the  Captain-Generalship  of  Venezuela,  under 
the  same  national  title  of  Colombia.  Some  difficulties  had 
arisen  at  Guayaquil,  owing  to  causes  which  were  soon  dis- 
sipated by  the  presence  of  Bolivar.  The  great  majority  of 
the  people  claimed  to  be  united  with  Colombia,  which  being 
granted,  all  disturbance  ceased,  party  disappeared,  and  se- 
curity and  prosperity  are  established. 

The  constitution  has  already  reached  the  remote  province 
of  Maynas,  on  the  borders  of  the  Amazon  in  the  south ;  and 
thus  one  system  of  institutions  and  laws,  protecting  the  li- 
berties and  assuring  the  happiness  of  the  people,  pervade 
the  beautiful  regions  from  the  mouths  of  the  Orinoco  to 
the  northern  boundaries  of  Brazil  and  Peru.  Only  two 
cities,  and  some  small  liamlets,  now  groan  under  the  des- 
potic rule  of  the  Spanish  General  Morales,  who,  it  appeared 
from  the  foreign  journals,  was  appointed  Captain-General  of 
Venezuela,  and  reinforced  with  1500  men  from  Gallicia, 
convoyed  by  a  naval  force ;  whose  first  enterprise  against 
Maracaibo  was  successful,  giving  him  the  controul  of  the 
lake ;  and  enabled  him  to  menace  the  departments  of  Car- 
thagena,  Boyacca,  Merida,  Truxillo,  and  Venezuela.  The 
power  vested  by  article  128  of  the  constitution,  in  cases  of 
invasion,  was  assumed  on  the  25th  September;  and  mea- 
sures becoming  necessary  against  internal  foes,  on  the  SOtli 
September,  a  decree  was  issued  against  conspirators,  in  or- 
der to  meet  the  measures  of  Morales,  who  never  respected 
any  laws  ;  this  was  necessary,  as  some  persons  in  the  depart- 
ment of  Zulia  had  been  seduced  to  raise  the  cry  of  insurrec- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  520 

tion,  and  two  excellent  officers  were  assassinated  in  the  com^' 
motion.  Santa  Martha  was  agitated  by  the  same  means. 
Some  law  regulating  trials  in  such  cases  is  necessary,  as 
pointed  at  by  the  articles  169  and  170  of  the  constitution. 

Venezuela  being  the  seat  of  war,  the  extraordinary  autho- 
rity adapted  to  such  occasions,  was  assunied  in  order  to  the 
recovery  of  Maracaibo ;  a  decree  was  issued  7th  November 
last,  in  the  departments  of  Cundinamarca,  Boyacca,  Magda- 
lena,  Zulia,  Venezuela,  and  Orinoco,  as  the  points  from 
which  the  enemy  might  derive  supplies.  In  all  other  de- 
partments quiet  and  security  prevails.  The  administration 
of  every  kind  has  proceeded  with  order  and  success.  The 
elections  of  senators  and  representatives  have  been  conducted 
with  perfect  order  in  the  newly  organized  departments — and 
those  acts  of  sovereignty,  which  in  some  nations  most  culti- 
vated produce  tumults  and  dissentions,  have  been  exercised 
among  us  in  perfect  quiet  and  concord,  proving  that  the  sa- 
crifices and  heroism  of  thirteen  years  of  war  have  not  been 
unavailing,  and  that  liberty  is  duly  appreciated  for  its  blessings. 

Publication  of  the  Laws.  Along  with  the  constitution,  all 
the  laws  and  decrees  of  the  first  general  congress  (Cucuta, 
1821-2)  have  been  promulgated,  the  government  having 
caused  them  to  be  printed  for  circulation ;  thus  simplifying 
administration,  and  diffusing  the  excellent  principles  they 
contain,  by  placing  them  within  the  reach  of  every  citizen. 

Executive  Departments.  Upon  the  first  exercise  of  the 
executive  authority,  secretaries  were  appointed  as  its  organs. 
Those  of  foreign  relations,  finance,  and  the  home  department, 
single ;  the  war  and  naval  under  one  head.  A  particular  regu- 
lation has  been  provided  for  each  department,  prescribing  its 
duties  according  to  article  137  of  the  constitution.  The  law 
of  8th  October,  1821,  directed  the  appointments  of  a  subor- 
dinate character  and  their  salaries,  but  the  numbers  appointed 
are  not  yet  sufficient  for  the  dispatch  of  public  business, 
which  is  for  the  consideration  of  Congress.^ 

67 


530  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Administration  of  Territorial  Departments*  Provisional 
intendants,  conformable  to  the  organic  law,  have  been  ap- 
pointed to  seven  departments.  Deputy  assessors*  have  been 
also  appointed  according  with  the  eleventh  article  of  the  law 
of  2d  October,  1821.  Secretaryships  of  districts  have  been 
appointed,  and  salaries  assigned.  The  selection  of  secretaries 
being  in  the  intendants,  those  departments  are  completed. 

The  three  new  departments  of  the  Isthmus,  Quito,  and 
Guayaquil  are  in  progress.  The  isthmus  consists  of  the  pro- 
vinces of  Panama  and  Veragua ;  their  population  is  small* 
but  the  isthmus,  from  its  position,  must  increase  rapidly. 
That  of  Quito  consists  of  the  provinces  of  Quijos,  Pastes, 
Cuenca,  Loja,  and  Maynas.  That  of  Guayaquil  consists  of 
its  ancient  territory. 

Obstacles  and  doubts  arise  on  the  law  organizing  depart- 
ments. The  intendants  and  governors  being  immediate 
agents  of  the  executive,  should  not  interfere  with  juridical 
concerns  with  which  that  law  invests  them,  in  every  litigation 
concerning  justice,  police,  or  finance.  It  is  the  opinion  of 
the  executive  these  powers  should  be  withdrawn  from  inten- 
dants and  governors,  and  vested  in  deputy  assessors ;  powers 
would  be  thus  better  distributed,  intendants  not  obliged  to 
enter  into  affairs  they  may  not  understand,  and  be  thus  better 
enabled  to  bestow  undivided  attention  on  the  improvement 
of  the  provinces  over  which  they  preside,  and  the  military 
affairs.  An  obstacle  arises  out  of  article  6,  in  the  same  law. 
Causes,  in  which  heretofore  an  appeal  lay  to  the  king,  on  judi- 
cial affairs,  are  now  carried  to  the  executive,  who  having  no  law 
authorising  him  to  interfere,  provision  is  required  to  remedy 
the  evil.  It  is  also  necessary  that  a  code  of  regulations  for 
the  direction  of  intendants  should  be  formed.  That  of  New 
Spain  of  1786,  was  directed  by  the  law  of  1821.  But  that 
code  was  formed  for  Mexico,  and  under  an  absolute  mo- 

*  The  assessor  is  a  law  officer,  whose  functions  are  mixed  ;  he  prosecutes  for 
offences,  and  acts  as  deputy  to  the  intendant — at  least  so  is  the  practice. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  531 

oarch,  and  is  utterly  irreconcilable  with  the  free  institutions 
of  Colombia.  The  executive,  nevertheless,  is  overwhelmed 
with  such  appeals.  The  legislature  is  called  upon  to  provide 
the  remedy.  In  January,  1822,  the  executive  appointed  a 
commission  to  prepare  a  project  of  regulations,  which  will  be 
laid  before  Congress. 

Political  Adtninistration  of  the  Provinces. — When  the  in- 
tendants  were  appointed,  the  government  selected  the  pro- 
vincial governors  in  conformity  with  the  constitution ;  and 
deputy  assessors  for  most  of  them.  Margarita  and  Rio  Hacha 
have  none,  because  the  stipend  is  not  such  as  would  induce 
advocates  of  suitable  qualifications  to  accept  them.  The 
secretaryships  of  provinces  have  also  been  organised,  and 
officers  appointed,  with  their  salaries,  which  will  be  laid  be- 
fore Congress,  according  to  article  24  of  law  of  2d  October^ 

The  eight  provinces  of  Panama,  Veragua,  Pastes,  Quito, 
Cuenca,  Loja,  Maynas,  and  Guayaquil,  are  added  to  the 
twenty-three  of  which  the  Republic  was  before  composed 
when  Congress  made  the  distribution  of  the  territory.  Of 
these,  Pastos,  belonging  to  Quito,  is  now  formed  into  a  se- 
parate department  by  the  liberator  president,  and  the  only  one 
created  by  him.  Salaries  should  be  fixed  for  the  governors 
of  Veragua,  Pastos,  Cuenca,  Loja,  and  Maynas.  The  others 
will  probably  be  constituted  heads  of  intendancies. 

Administration  of  the  Cantons.  To  complete  the  division . 
of  the  territory  conformably  with  the  articles  thirty-three 
and  thirty-four  of  the  organic  law  of  the  departments,  the  pro- 
vinces are  divided  into  cantons,  reports  having  been  pre- 
viously received  from  the  governors.  Political  judges  have 
also  been  appointed,  thus  completing  the  chain  of  social 
order. 

The  political  judges,  however,  having  no  salaries  assigned 
them,  they  should  be  compensated  :  in  some  provinces  a 
small  sum  from  the  funds  of  the  municipal  bodies  has  been 
:^llowed  them  ;  but  these  funds  are  much  impaired,  and  many 


632  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

cantons  are  without  any  funds ;  there  remained  no  resource 
but  the  national  funds,  which  have  been  so  applied  in  the 
province  of  Orinoco ;  a  heavy  charge  to  the  public,  in  the 
actual  state  of  things,  as  the  number  exceeds  two  hundred : 
it  rests  with  Congress  to  correct  the  inconvenience. 

Cabildos  of  Cantons. — The  first  general  congress,  in  pre- 
serving the  ancient  cabildos,  pointed  out  their  functions. 
But  the  war  absorbed  all  other  considerations ;  and  few  cor- 
porations have  been  able  to  engage  in  works  of  utility.  That 
of  St.  Gil,  in  the  province  of  Socorro,  has  distinguished  itself 
in  the  promotion  of  schools,  in  which  are  taught  grammar 
and  philosophy. 

The  thirty -fourth  article  authorised  the  establishment  of 
new  corporations,  and  accordingly  the  municipalities  of  To- 
cayma  and  La  Mesa,  in  the  province  of  Marequita,  and  that 
of  Yoisa  in  Panama,  have  been  created  ;  but  cabildos  have 
been  erected  also,  as  new  cantons  are  created. 

The  condition  of  our  population  scattered  on  the  plains, 
for  the  most  part  renders  the  sitting  of  corporations  difficult. 
The  cabildos  have  been  re-elected  in  October  last,  agreeably 
to  the  forty-second  article,  but  for  uniformity  it  is  determined 
that  the  period  must  commence  from  January.  The  bounds 
of  some  corporations  have  been  changed,  and  even  of  pro- 
vinces. In  Bogota  and  Marequita,  provinces,  certain  villages, 
.and  the  same  with  parishes,  have  been  transferred  to  a  juris- 
diction more  contiguous :  particulars  will  be  presented  to 
Congress. 

Public  Notaries  of  Cantons. — The  places  of  notaries  and 
registers  of  mortgages  in  cantons  were  saleable  offices  and 
transferable  under  the  Spanish  rule.*  The  first  general  con- 
gress, article  seventy-six,  of  the  law  concerning  tribunals,  de- 
termined  that  the  sales  should  cease,  and  the  places  be  filled 
by  competition,  and  the  candidates  undergo  an  examination 
by  the  local  courts  as  ^o  fitness.     A  special  law  is  necessary 

*  Gteat  abuses  in  the  office  of  notarr. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  533 

on  the  subject.  Those  who  purchased,  claim  indemnity ;  but 
this  being  a  question  of  law,  the  executive  could  not  interfere. 

Slavery. — The  law  of  19th  July,  year  11,  gave  liberty  to 
the  children  of  female  slaves,  abolished  the  trade  in  ne- 
groes, and  the  boards  of  manumission  have  been  in  activity 
throughout  the  republic.  In  December  of  the  same  year,  the 
period  fixed  for  the  liberation  of  slaves  by  purchase,  it  was 
carried  into  effect,  and  the  legislature  of  Colombia  received 
the  blessings  of  thousands  restored  to  the  condition  of  men. 
In  some  provinces,  fears  were  entertained  that  the  cessation  of 
slavery  would  affect  agriculture  and  the  working  of  the  mines. 
It  may  so  happen,  but  is  it  not  a  less  evil  than  that  the  people 
should  live  as  if  over  a  volcano,  of  which  no  one  could  anti- 
cipate the  moment  of  explosion  ?  It  is  better  that  agriculture 
and  mining  should  incur  those  temporary  evils,  for  which 
want  and  experience  will  every  day  discover  more  safe  and 
permanent  remedies,  than  entail  on  posterity  so  great  a  moral 
and  physical  evil. 

Rights  of  the  Aborigines,  The  greater  part  of  the  Indians 
of  Colombia  have  been  a  degraded  class,  and  are  yet  par- 
tially so.  The  Spanish  laws  reduced  them  to  perpetual  pu- 
pilage, and  it  may  be  said,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  that 
they  were  the  slaves  of  the  priests  and  the  magistrates.  Both 
one  and  the  other  commanded  them  to  be  whipped  publicly 
for  the  most  trivial  faults,  and  even  though  in  years.  Thus 
they  lived  in  a  state  of  debasement  and  degradation,  the 
energy  of  their  intellectual  and  physical  faculties  destroyed. 
Obliged  to  cultivate  lands  in  common,  they  never  improved 
them,  and  mournfully  vegetated  in  villages,  existing  in  misery, 
and  with  difficulty  able  to  pay  the  sum  of  from  six  to  nine 
dollars  a  year  exacted  from  them  as  tribute,  which  all  males 
from  1 8  to  50  were  obliged  to  pay  \ 

The  first  general  Congress  annihilated  these  cruel  oppres- 
sions, by  placing  the  natives  on  an  equality  with  all  other 
men ;  suppressed  the  tributes  and  personal  labour  wrong- 
fully exacted,  and  provided  that  the  resguardas,  or  common 


534  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

lands,  should  be  laid  out  and  conferred  on  them  as  lee  sun 
pic  estates  within  five  years.  These  measures,  though  they 
will  render  them  more  happy,  cannot  exalt  them  to  that  state. 
which  education  only  can  establish ;  their  posterity,  and  tlic 
youth  growing  up,  will  profit  by  them,  and  care  has  been 
taken  that  the  children  find  their  admission  in  primary  schools, 
where  they  learn  to  read  and  \vrite,  and  where  the  brutal 
practice  of  whipping  is  utterly  forbidden. 

By  a  decree  of  14th  March  last,  four  Indian  youths  are  to 
be  admitted  into  each  of  the  colleges  of  Bogota,  Caracas, 
and  Quito,  and  two  in  each  of  every  other ;  and  funds  have 
been  assigned  for  their  maintenance.  Thus  by  degrees  they 
will  become  like  other  men,  under  the  influence  of  liberty 
and  republican  institutions. 

Within  fifty  or  sixty  years  difference  of  casts  and  condi- 
tions of  inferiority  will  wholly  disappear. 

Section  II.  Of  the  Police — Public  Security.  During 
the  fifteen  months  since  the  legislature  commenced  its  sit- 
tings, public  order  has  been  well  observed,  and,  notwith- 
standing the  marauding  of  the  Spaniards  from  Porto  Cabello 
on  Venezuela,  the  population  has  no  where  indicated  any 
thing  in  their  favour.  A  banditti  of  the  partisans  of  Spain, 
(Cisneros)  a  robber,  has  maintained  a  place  in  the  forests 
near  Caracas,  and  another  near  Calaboso  has  been  totally 
destroyed.  Another  party  kept  the  vast  deserts  of  Castigo, 
after  the  pacification  of  the  south,  but  trifling  in  number. 
The  Spanish  Lieutenant-colonel  Benito  Boves,  formed  a 
band  of  outlaws  in  Pastos,  and  excited  commotions  in  that 
town,  and,  though  treated  with  generosity  by  the  republican 
troops,  sought  to  spread  civil  war  and  desolation  anew.  The 
liberator  soon  terminated  his  career,  and,  on  the  24th  De- 
cember last,  annihilated  him  and  his  banditti,  since  which 
time  tranquillity  has  every  where  prevailed. 

About  the  same  time  Santa  Martha  was  disturbed.  Some 
deserters  having  joined  the  Indians  of  the  district  of  Cienega, 
raised  an  insurrection,  and  the  republican  troops  being  em- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  633 

ployed  on  other  duties,  and  absent,  the  insurgents  occupied 
that  place.   They  soon  met  the  same  fate  as  those  of  Pastos. 

As  necessary  to  tranquillity,  the  moderation  of  the  repub- 
lic having  been  abused,  the  executive,  by  a  circular  of  28th 
June,  forbad  those  who  had  emigrated  from  returning  before 
the  cabinet  of  Madrid  should  have  recognised  Colombian 
Independence.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  measure  had 
not  been  taken  the  preceding  year,  and  that  it  did  not  extend 
to  the  expulsion  of  those,  who,  living  in  the  midst  of  us,  and 
enjoying  the  security  they  would  themselves  deny  and  de- 
jstroy  to  us,  are  probably  watching  for  a  favourable  oppor- 
tunity  to  plant  a  dagger  in  the  bosom  of  the  republic  whose 
protection  they  enjoy. 

Health.  Measures  should  be  pursued  to  repress  the  annual 
visits  of  yellow  fever  to  the  seaports ;  the  establishment 
of  boards  of  health — quarantines — lazarettoes — draining  of 
stagnant  waters. 

Leprosy.  The  disease  called  St.  Lazaroy  or  Elephantia- 
sis (leprosy),  has  spread  in  some  parts  of  Colombia.  The 
Spanish  government  established  an  hospital  in  Carthagcna  for 
the  reception  of  tlie  unhappy  people,  afflicted  with  this  dis- 
ease ;  but  the  Spanish  general.  Morales,  distinguished  by  fe- 
rocity, in  1815,  took  the  horrid  pleasure  of  setting  fire  to  it, 
and  consuming  more  that  500  unfortunate  persons  within  its 
walls.  Others,  who  had  not  taken  refuge  there,  escaped,  and 
spread  themselves  and  the  disease,  in  different  parts  of  the 
surrounding  country.  The  hospital  was  re-established, 
but  the  funds  were  not  available.  Since  the  city  has  been 
occupied  by  the  republic,  it  has  been  sustained  by  charity. 

The  province  of  Soccoro  has  many  persons  afflicted  with 
this  disease,  and  a  lazaretto  was  established  in  1820,  at  a 
place  called  Coro,  where  the  afflicted  of  Soccoro,  Pamplona, 
Tunja,  Casanare,  Bogota,  Neyva,  and  Marequita  are  provi- 
ded for.  The  revenues  are  inadequate.  The  providence 
of  the  legislator  is  called  upon  to  use  the  means  employed 


536  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

in  almost  every  part  of  the  globe,  where  it  lias  existed,  and 
has  been  extirpated. 

Goitre.  Another  disease,  which,  though  not  mortal,  de- 
forms a  considerable  portion  of  the  populatioji,  in  several 
provinces,  destroys  the  beauty  of  the  fair  sex,  enfeebles  the 
senses,  and  affects  the  mental  faculties  ;  it  makes  infancy 
feeble,  and  frequently  idiots.  It  prevails  principally  in  the 
temperate  valleys ;  although  the  inhabitants  of  the  frozen 
summits  of  mountains  are  not  exempted,  any  more  than  the 
torrid  plains  of  the  Magdalcna,  Meta,  and  Apure,  and  other 
rivers.  The  goitre,  according  to  concurring  observations,^ 
rather  augments  than  diminishes,  and  demands  the  interpo- 
sition of  the  legislative  body.  Funds  should  be  appropriated 
for  experiments,  under  skilful  medical  men.  The  learned 
of  all  countries  should  be  invoked  for  aid,  and  liberal  re- 
wards offered  for  the  discovery  of  effective  means  of  preven- 
tion and  cure. 

Faccination.  The  government  has  taken  care  to  have  this 
precious  discovery  disseminated,  with  the  vaccine  matter, 
throughout  the  provinces. 

Hospitals.  The  greater  ])art  of  the  civil  hospitals  are  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  regular  clergy  of  San  Juan  de  Dios. 
The  funds  are  bequests  of  private  persons.  War  has  di- 
minished the  income.  The  hospitals  require  a  better  regu- 
lation. 

Cemeteries.  The  government  has  promoted  the  establish- 
ment of  cemeteries  in  every  parish,  with  views  to  public 
health.  The  interment  of  the  dead  in  churches,  is  an  abuse, 
and  must  be  discontinued. 

Poor-houses.  In  Bogota,  Quito,  and  Caracas,  buildings  are 
assigned  to  receive  the  mendicant  poor,  and  employ  them 
in  some  useful  industry.  The  government  has  also  found- 
ed another  at  Pamplona.  It  is  true,  that  some  of  the  econo- 
mists are  opposed  to  this  species  of  institution,  but  there  are 
arguments  against  them,  more  deserving  the  regard  of  a  go* 


VISJLT  TO  COLOMBIA.  537 

vernmcnt,  in  which  the  people  have  equal  rights,  and  the 
opulent  are  protected  by  those  who  are  not  rich.  But  in  cast- 
ing a  glance  over  the  republic,  it  is  a  great  pleasure  to  per- 
ceive, that  no  where  within  its  jurisdiction,  is  there  so  many- 
poor,  nor  poverty  so  miserable  as  in  ancient  nations,  consi- 
dered as  having  reached  the  summit  of  grandeur.  No  where 
in  Colombia  do  the  poor  perish  through  want,  notwithstand- 
ing a  war  which  for  its  duration  has  been  the  most  cruel  and 
disastrous  recorded  in  history.  Indeed,  the  fertility  of  our 
temperate  climate  affords  such  abundance  of  the  necessaries 
of  life,  account  for  this,  and  is  a  happy  presage  for  the 
future. 

Section  III.  Of  Naturalization. — The  great  designs 
of  the  first  general  Congress,  in  sanctioning  the  183d  article  of 
the  constitution,  and  the  law  of  3d  September,  1821,  begin 
to  operate.  Many  foreigners  have  applied  for  naturalization 
up  to  the  close  of  the  last  year;  there  were  only  fourteen  na- 
turalizations, many  more  had  solicited,  but  doubts  had  inter- 
posed as  to  the  law.  The  government  is  satisfied  there  was 
nothing  retrospective,  and  that  those  who  resided  in  1821 
are  not  subject  to  the  fourth  article.  Congress  arc  called 
upon  to  ratify  this  Interpretation. 

Another  difficulty  arose  out  of  section  two,  of  article  four 
of  the  constitution.  As  the  republic  has  undergone  many 
political  changes  in  organising  departments  and  provinces, 
the  government  could  not  decide  whether  it  speaks  of  a  law 
common  to  all,  or  commences  at  the  termination  of  the  Span- 
ish yoke  in  each  place.  Colombia  requires  that  the  utmost 
encouragement  be  given  to  the  naturalization  of  foreigners, 
especially  those  who  bring  with  them  capital  or  useful  arts, 
of  which  the  republic  stands  in  need.  Naturalization  should, 
therefore,  be  rendered  easy. 

Internal  Commerce. — The  relief  of  internal  industry  from 
the  oppression  of  the  alcavalas  has  given  great  activity  to 

68 


538  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

internal  trade ;  and  the  entire  expulsion  of  the  enemy  must 
be  lollovved  by  still  greater  augmentation. 

The  observance  of  the  Spanish  laws  was  provisionally  en- 
joined, and  it  was  unavoidable  ;  but  wherever  inconsistent 
with  our  Iree  institutions,  and  the  entrance  of  foreigners  un- 
acquainted with  them,  produces  great  inconvenience.  The 
laws  thus  in  force  rendered  it  out  of  the  power  of  the  execu- 
tive to  dispense  with  those  which  obliged  foreigners  to  con- 
sign their  merchandise  to  native  agents,  as  was  the  law  under 
Spain,  'i'hc  provisional  decree,  issued  27th  February,  1822, 
on  this  subject,  will  be  laid  before  Congress.  A  clear  intel- 
ligible law  is  required,  placing  strangers  on  the  same  terms 
as  we  are  placed  in  foreign  nations.  The  decree  has  prevented 
disputes,  and  encourages  national  prosperity. 

WeigJits  and  Measures.  The  executive  has  experienced 
some  difficulty  in.  the  construction  of  standards  of  weights 
and  measures,  as  decreed  by  the  first  general  Congress,  to  be 
sent  to  the  departments ;  particularly  as  to  the  measures  of 
capacity  called  almiides^  the  cube-root  of  which  was  surd, 
and  not  satisfactorily  reducible  to  the  precision  of  mathema- 
tics. It  would  have  been  more  advantageous  to  reform  the 
law  of  11th  December,  1821,  and  udupt  the  metrical  system 
of  France:  their  metre  is  scarcely  two- tenths  longer  than  the 
Spanish  yard,  and  could  be  introduced  with  facility. 

Difficulties  arose  as  to  who  should  be  the  depositaries 
charged  with  the  custody  of  the  measures  called  almacenes. 
Some  corporations  continued  to  exact  the  ancient  duties, 
which  was  put  an  end  to  as  soon  as  known  ;  Congress  will 
be  applied  to  further  on  this  subject. 

Roads. — Colombia,  divided  by  lofty  ranges  of  the  Andes 
and  their  magnificent  limbs,  almost  all  roads  lead  through 
mountainous  regions,  and  oppose  difficulties  to  opening  and 
repairing  them.  There  is  not  a  single  road  for  w-heel  car- 
riages in  the  vast  territory  of  the  republic.  All  are  bridle 
roads,  and  bad  at  all  times,  but  particularly  in  the  rainy  se.a- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  539 

son.  The  government  is  aware  that  without  good  roads  in- 
dustry,  particularly  agriculture,  cannot  be  prosperous ;  but 
peace  w  ill  enable  the  government  to  attend  to  this  great  bu- 
siness of  public  providence. 

Nevertheless  the  liberator,  our  president,  has  caused  a  road 
to  be  opened  from  Quito  to  Esmeraldas  on  the  Pacific,  and 
granted  some  immunities  to  promote  the  increase  of  com- 
merce there.  A  road  has  been  made  in  Antioquia  from 
Medelin  to  the  river  Nare,  the  inhabitants  having  generously 
borne  the  expenses  by  voluntary  subscription.  Some  useful 
bridges  have  been  finished  ;  one  over  the  river  St.  Gil  has  been 
constructed  by  the  patriotic  exertions  of  the  municipality  of 
St.  Gil.  That  at  Capitanejo,  over  the  Chichamoca,  has  been 
completed  out  of  the  public  funds  ;  tolls  have  been  suggested 
as  a  fund  to  construct  and  keep  bridges  in  repair ;  but  this 
being  the  province  of  the  legislature,  no  steps  have  been  taken. 
In  two  cases  of  bridges,  however,  the  same  toll  is  paid  that 
was  demanded  for  crossing  in  a  canoe  before. 

The  subject  of  roads  demands  the  most  serious  considera- 
tion. Colombia  wants  roads.  We  should  follow  the  exam- 
ple of  the  United  States,  where  roads  have  been  constructed 
at  the  most  extraordinary  expense,  over  which  carriages  tra- 
vel with  perfect  convenience  in  one  day,  distances  which 
occupied  four  days  or  a  week  before. 

Inland  navigation, — Colombia  possesses  in  great  rivers  an 
immense  inland  navigation.  The  majestic  Orinoco  and  its 
countless  tributaries ;  the  Catab^mba,  Zulia,  and  others  that 
unite  in  the  beautiful  lake  of  Maracaibo ;  the  Magdalena ;  the 
Atrato,  Cruces,  and  numerous  others  on  the  Pacific  side  ;  the 
Patia,  Esmeraldas,  Santiago,  St.  Juan,  and  the  Guayaquil. 
But  the  navigation  is  still  rude.  Champans  and  Bogas  ascend 
those  streams  in  the  same  manner,  and  navigated  by  Indians 
in  the  same  way,  as  at  the  conquest,  after  the  dominion  of 
three  centuries ;  so  little  have  the  Spaniards  taught  us  in  that 
long  period.  Thus  the  navigation  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Orinoco  to  tlie  head  of  the  Meta,  within  three  days'  journey 


540  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  Bog-Ota,  is  an  enterprise  rcquirini^  more  time  than  is  nc- 
ccsbiiry  to  double  Cape  Horn  Ironi  luiropc.  For  tliis  reason, 
the  expenses  of  transport  are  so  enormous,  that  few  artieles 
^vill  bear  the  charge  of  carryinj^  from  our  ports  to  an  interior 
market.  It  is  imj)Ossil)lc  tliat  internal  agricuhure,  industry, 
or  commerce,  can  prosper  until  chani^es  are  made  to  facilitate 
communication  and  transport,  not  merely  of  foreign  goods 
we  require,  but  of  our  own  products,  upon  which  public 
prosperity  so  !nuch  depends. 

With  steamboats  many  of  our  rivers  may  be  navigated  at 
less  than  one- fourth  of  the  present  cost.  Diftcrcnt  individuals 
have  proposed  to  establish  steamboats  on  the  Magdalcna,  upon 
condition  of  an  exclusive  privilege.  This  being  the  province 
of  Congress  to  act  upon,  the  executive  declined  to  make  any 
such  grant.  Until  steamboats  do  enter,  it  would  be  impor- 
tant that  Congress  should  pass  a  law  regulating  the  bogas 
(meaning  the  boatmen,  the  boat  or  canoe  is  also  called  boga). 

Cana/s. — The  opening  of  an  important  canal  between  the 
San  Pablo  in  Choco  and  the  Atrato,  ^vhich  fall  into  the  Ca- 
ribbean sea,  with  the  St.  Juan,  which  falls  into  the  Pacific. 
A  foreigner  has  proposed  to  open  it  for  an  exclusive  privi- 
lege, and  calculates  the  expense  at  only  55200,000,  though 
some  think  erroneously :  it  will  be  laid  before  Congress ; 
but  the  moment  does  not  appear  favourable. 

Agriculture  and  Arts — have  received  very  little  encourage- 
ment :  the  war  contributions,  the  recruiting  of  the  army, 
want  of  funds,  are  the  causes.  Peace  will  afford  more  means. 
The  establishmtnt  of  central  schools  of  agriculture  at  Quito, 
Bogota,  and  Caracas,  might  diffuse  information  all  around, 
on  subjects  so  interesting,  but  of  which  the  paternal  care  of 
Spain  has  left  the  people  of  Colombia  almost  ignorant. 

Mines. — Mining  in  Antioquia,  Choco,  Popayan,  and  parts 
of  Neyva  and  Pamplona,  is  pursued  at  the  washings,  and  in 
the  two  first  provinces  the  product  has  been  considerable. 
The  war  has  affected  all  the  other  provinces. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  541 

Section  IV.  Public  Education. — Primary  schools  were 
directed  to  be  established  in  every  parish,  by  the  law  of  2d 
August,  1821,  and  it  has  been  carried  into  effect  wherever 
practicable.  The  want  of  teachers  and  of  elementary  books, 
are  serious  difficulties  ;  and  show  liow  the  colonial  system  has 
generated  ignorance.  Model  schools  were  directed  to  be 
formed  in  principal  places  ;  some  teachers  have  proceeded  to 
different  places ;  and  in  January,  1822,  a  regulation  was  is- 
sued prescribing  the  order  in  which  mutual  instruction  should 
be  conducted  and  extended.  The  system  has  been  received 
with  pleasure,  and  the  people  now  perceive  that  they  have  a 
government  of  their  own,  even  where  the  distance  from  the 
capital  is  2000  leagues.  For  three  hundred  years  the  Span- 
iards did  not  endow  a  single  school.  A  commission  has 
been  formed  to  make  enquiries,  and  to  prepare  a  report  on 
the  Lancastcrian  school  system,  which  will  be  laid  before 
Congress  ;  the  schools  yet  have  languished  through  want  of 
funds,  and  those  directed  to  be  established  in  convents  of 
nuns  particularly. 

Colleges — according  to  the  law  of  28th  July,  1821,  are  to  be 
founded  in  every  province  of  Colombia;  already  the  colleges 
of  Boyacca  in  Tunja ;  San  Simon  in  Ibague ;  Antioquia  in 
Mcdelin  ;  and  the  academy  of  San  Gil  are  established ;  and 
another  is  to  be  placed  at  Caly  in  Popayan.  The  Liberator 
has  also  founded  a  college  in  Loja.  The  ancient  colleges 
have  been  encouraged  as  far  as  possible ;  two  at  Quito,  one 
in  Popayan,  two  in  Bogota,  two  in  Caracas,  and  one  in  Merida 
exist.  That  in  Bogota  is  flourishing.  The  government  has 
not  yet  been  able  to  collect  the  data  requisite  for  the  reform 
of  those  ancient  colleges,  which  they  require,  being  all  Gothic 
in  their  foundations  and  forms. 

The  study  of  medicine  and  surgery  is  essential ;  more  va- 
liant soldiers  perished  in  the  field  through  that  want  than  by 
any  other  cause.  Two  foreigners  have  presented  themselves 
with  complete  apparatus  for  teaching  anatomy,  and  propose 


54S  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

commencing  a  course  of  lectures  ;  they  have  been  accepted; 
and  they  have  commenced  in  this  capital. 

Unwersities.  There  arc  at  Quito,  Bogota,  Caracas,  and  at 
Merida,  for  some  of  the  sciences  ;  that  of  Bogota,  is  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  Dominican  order.  They  all  require 
reform. 

The  government  has  added  to  the  ancient  library  of  Bo- 
gota, that  of  the  celebrated  Dr.  Mutis,  and  the  books  which 
have  been  sequestrated.  The  books  are  placed  in  the  halls  of 
St.  Bartholemew,  and  the  Ibrmer  building  has  been  sold  for 
the  advantage  of  the  library. 

Section  V.  High  court  of  justice.  This  court  was  in- 
stalled immediately  on  the  establishment  of  the  constitution. 
Two  of  the  oflicers  named  for  that  court,  have  declined  pro- 
visionally ;  it  remains  with  congress  to  provide. 

Superior  courts  of  districts.  Those  courts  of  the  centre, 
and  north,  were  installed  at  the  same  time,  but  not  in  Quito, 
as  the  war  had  not  yet  ceased  its  effects  ;  but  as  soon  as  it 
was  free,  the  courts  were  established ;  no  provision  existing 
for  Panama,  they  have  been  therefore  united  with  the  courts 
of  the  central  departments.  In  the  organic  law,  the  fiscal 
agents  were  not  noticed.  The  executive,  therefore,  consider- 
ed them  as  suppressed. 

Inferior  courts.  These  are  in  full  exercise  of  their  duties. 
The  only  doubt  which  has  arisen,  is  whether  the  officers  of 
the  fraternity  admitted  by  Spanish  law,  ought  to  subsist. 
But  as  there  are  two  alcaldes  in  each  canton,  \\iQ  fraternity  is 
considered  as  suppressed. 

Tribunals  of  commerce.  They  were  suppressed  by  the  law 
of  October,  and  transactions  before  submitted  to  them,  were 
referred  to  the  ordinary  tribunals. 

The  liberty  of  the  press.  The  law  relating  to  it,  has  been 
fulfilled ;  the  operations  of  the  government  are  freely  anim- 
adverted  upon,  and  the  great  interests  of  the  nation  dis- 
cussed.    Newspapers  are  increasing,  but  it  is  to  be  regret- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  548 

ted,  that  the  printing  establishments  are  very  limited,  and 
not  as  numerous  as  is  desirable.  Some  excesses  have  oc- 
curred, and  they  appear  unavoidable  where  the  press  is  free. 
The  law  of  the  press  has  introduced  trial  by  jury  ;  in  prac- 
tice, Art.  48.  appeared  defective,  two  votes  of  the  same 
opinion  being  sufficient  for  an  acquittal,  and  six  for  con- 
demnation. Perhaps  in  such  cases,  an  even  majority  should 
condemn  or  acquit.  In  case  this  idea  should  not  be  acceded 
to,  the  rule  of  English  juries,  that  of  unanimity,  should  be  es- 
tablished, and  then  the  institution  would  be  complete. 

Administration  of  Justice.  Nothing  can  be  more  imper- 
fect than  the  existing  jurisprudence  of  Colombia ;  it  is 
a  gothic  edifice,  half  in  ruins,  heterogeneous  and  discor- 
dant. The  laws  of  the  Partulas  made  in  the  time  of  the 
Moors  ;  the  Recopilacion  Castellana ;  and  Autos  Acorda- 
dos  ;  the  laws  of  the  Indies ;  the  ordinances  of  Bilboa,  and 
the  Intcndants ;  the  contradictory  decrees  of  the  arbitrary 
monarchs  of  Spain  ;  the  Republican  constitution,  and  the 
laws  of  the  first  general  Congress — these  are  the  Codes 
which  rule  Colombia ;  a  vast  chaos,  the  last  almost  entirely 
abolishing  all  the  rest.  Here  civil  causes  are  continued  for 
years,  and  the  rum  of  families  follows  ;  no  greater  misfortune 
could  bcfal  a  good  citizen,  than  to  be  involved  in  a  litigation. 

The  civil  and  criminal  code,  therefore,  call  for  the  cor- 
rection of  Congress,  so  that  justice  may  be  speedy,  easy,  and 
certain  ;  without  which  our  liberties  must  cease,  that  pre- 
cious possession  acquired  by  the  blood  and  the  sacrifices  of 
the  people  for  thirteen  years  of  war.  The  government 
had  formed  a  conmiission  in  January,  1822,  with  a  view  to 
lay  the  basis  of  a  code. 

Sec  no N  VI.  Ecclesiastical  affairs.  The  superior  hier- 
archy of  Colombia  commences  with  the  archbishops,  of 
which  there  are  two,  Bogota  and  Caracas.  Bogota  is  va- 
cant. The  incumbent  of  Caracas  was  sent  to  Europe  by 
Morillo,  and  has  been  since  appointed  to  a  see  in  Spain, 


544  VISIT  TO    COLOMUIA. 

Documents  relative  to  this  prelate  will  be  laid  before  Con- 
gress in  order  to  a  decision  upon  the  revenues  of  that  sec. 
The  bishoprics  of  Quito,  Cuenca,  Maynas,  and  Panama, 
under  Spanish  rule,  ucre  suffragans  of  the  archbishopric  of 
Lima ;   the  appeals  from  acts  of  the  bishops,  &c.  would  of 
course  be  decided  by  the  metropolitan.     Colombia  and  Pe- 
ru are  now  separate  and  independent  states ;  and   cases  arc 
now  brought   bc/brc  authority  within  the  Republic,  and  it 
is  contemplated  to  constitute  by  law,  Quito  into  an  arch- 
bishopric ;  a  respect  due  to  that  populous  and  patriotic  city. 
Bishops.  There  arc  ten  in  Colombia :  Quito,  Cuenca,  May- 
nas,  Fopayan,   Panama,  Carthagena,  Santa  Marta,  Merida, 
Antioquia,  Guayana,  of  which  Maynas,  Cuenca,  Santa  Marta, 
Antioquia,  and  Guayana  are  vacant.    The  bishops  of  Cartha- 
gena and  Quito  are  alive,  but  being  avowed  enemies  of  inde- 
pendence, have  abandoned  their  diocesses  and  gone  to  Spain. 
The  bishop  of  Popayan,   Salvator  Ximenes,  has  rendered 
meritorious  service,  particularly  in  the  capitulation  of  Berru- 
ecos,  which  put  an  end  to  the  war  in  the  south ;  he  declares 
himself  a  Colombian,  and  is  restored. 

The  difficulty  with  respect  to  bishops  of  Colombia  being 
suffragans  of  Lima,  occurred  in  the  opposite  relation,  in  va- 
rious districts  of  the  province  of  Loja,  and  the  territory  of 
St.  Jean  de  Brocamoros,  which,  though  belonging  to  Co- 
lombia, were  subject  to  the  Peruvian  bishop  of  Truxillo. 
Insubordination  of  this  kind  must  not  be  permitted  in  future. 
Vacancies,  Parishes,  canonries,  bishoprics,  and  archbish- 
oprics are  vacant.  The  parishes  have  been  ordered  to  be 
filled  up,  by  a  decree  of  4th  January,  1822,  and  the  ordina- 
ries have  every  where  fulfilled  their  duty,  notwithstanding 
some  qualms  of  the  prudent  vicar-general  of  Carthagena. 
The  government  by  this  decree  has  endeavoured  to  preserve 
unhurt  the  rights  that  belong  to  the  civil  power,  and  those 
necessary  to  maintain  the  civil  subordination  of  the  clergy, 
conformably  with  the  resolution  of  Congress,  of  14th  Octo- 
ber, 1821.     Thus  no  person  can    obtain  an  ecclesiastical 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  646 

benefice  without  a  previous  license  from  the  executive  of 
the  republic  or  its  authority. 

The  vacancies  in  chapters  have  been  filled  up  so  far  as  is 
necessary  to  divine  service  in  the  cathedrals.  The  arch- 
bishoprics and  bishoprics  will  remain  vacant  until  the  nego- 
ciation  of  the  concordat  at  Rome  is  terminated.  Expe- 
rience has  proved  that  it  is  necessary  to  the  tranquillity  and 
good  government  of  the  republic,  that  the  right  of  patro- 
nage should  be  in  the  executive,  in  the  same  way  as  exer- 
cised by  the  king  of  Spain.  During  the  war  this  right  has 
not  been  enforced,  but  the  government  will  for  ever  main- 
tain it. 

Regular  Clergy.  The  regular  orders  in  Colombia  are  di- 
vided into  three  provinces,  Venezuela,  Bogota,  and  Quito; 
some  others  are  independent.  The  head  or  common  centre' 
of  those  regulars  was  the  vicar-gcncral  of  each,  resident  at 
Madrid,  who  was  subordinate  to  a  generalissimo  residing  at 
Rome.  The  vicar-generals  issued  orders  to  their  provinces, 
which  were  obeyed  by  the  provincials  or  superiors.  But 
since  Colombia  is  independent,  it  is  necessary  the  regular 
orders  should  be  so  too.  No  subordination  to,  nor  commu- 
nications with,  superiors  residing  in  a  hostile  state,  like  Spain, 
can  be,  on  any  account,  allowed.  Congress  will  therefore 
have  to  determine,  by  law,  the  regular  clergy  independent  of 
all  foreign  interference. 

Su/j/jresscd  Convents.  Such  convents  of  regulars  as  had 
not  at  least  eight  priests,  were  directed  to  be  suppressed,  by 
the  first  general  Congress,  and  their  edifices,  properties,  and 
revenues  appropriated  to  the  support  of  public  education. 
This  has  been  lulfiUtrd  in  all  the  provinces  t-xempted  from 
war  in  the  last  year.  As  far  as  information  has  yet  been  re- 
ceived, thirty-nine  convents  have  been  so  suppressed,  and 
converted  into  seminaries  of  education.  Doubts  and  con- 
siderations concerning  some  others,  have  induced  government 
to  let  them  exist,  subject  to  the  pleasure  of  Congress. 

69 


546  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  government  entertaining  doubts  as  to  the  intention  ot 
the  law  of  28th  July,  1821,  which  authorised  those  measures 
concerning  the  ornaments  and  sacred  vessels  of  the  churches, 
suggest  the  propriety  of  distributing  them  in  tiie  poor  parish 
churches,  where  they  cannot  be  applied  to  the  uses  of  the 
colleges. 

Missions,  Various  uncivilized  tribes  dwell  as  well  in  La 
Goajira,  as  on  the  banks  of  the  Meta,  Orinoco,  and  Amazon, 
and  other  rivers  that  water  the  vast  plains  of  the  eastern  part  of 
the  republic  ;  some  of  them  have  received  ideas  of  religion, 
and  they  open  a  fine  field  for  the  regular  clergy. 

Patriotism  of  the  Clergy.  They  have  every  where,  secu- 
lar and  regular,  rendered  important  services  to  the  cause  of 
independence.  One  or  two  fanatics  only,  sought  to  preach 
and  effect  a  coalition  between  religion  and  despotism.  But 
they  have  disappointed  themselves  :  some  individuals  have 
much  distinguished  themselves,  and  the  government  would 
exercise  the  right  of  patronage  in  the  favour  of  such  men, 
if  the  state  of  ecclesiastical  relations  would  admit. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Financial  report — incohate  state  of  the  revenue  system — effect  of  suppres- 
sions— fiscal  year  to  begin  with  July — customs — tithes — tobacco — spirits — 
mint — post-office — salt-works — stamps — alcavala — direct  taxation. 

Report  of  the  war  department — state  of  the  army  as  to  discipline  during  the 
war — the  zeal  of  the  chiefs  supplied  the  absence  of  system — strength  of  the 

army — organization — guard — administrative    branches clothing   and  pay — 

arms militia fortresses — artillery — quarters — arsenals — invalids — military 

instruction — operations  of  the  army — campaigns  in  Peru. 

Naval  report— commodore  Brion — naval  depots— naval  expenditures. 

The  report  of  the  Minister  of  finance,  Jose  Maria  Cas- 
tillo, was  not  presented  till  the  5th  of  May.  The  introduction, 
amounting  to  about  a  third  of  the  report,  is  rhetorical ;  ac- 
counting for  what  has  not  been  done,  by  showing  how  much 
was  to  be  done,  and  how  much  too  short  the  space  since  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  547 

establishment  of  the  constitution  was,  to  carry  into  execution 
so  many  new  measures  as  had  been  required  by  the  first  Ge- 
neral Congress.  It  would  be  desirable  to  give  it  at  large,  but 
its  bulk  does  not  admit  of  it ;  the  ideas  of  a  fiscal  kind  are 
such  as  have  been  prevalent  in  Europe  for  the  last  half  cen- 
tury, or  what  in  common  discourse  is  called  political  econo- 
my;  in  which  the  fancies  of  Rousseau,  the  illusions  of  the 
French  economists,  or  school  of  Quesnay,  and  the  perplexity 
and  contradictions  of  the  English  school  of  Smith,  and  of  Say, 
who  may  be  called  the  Economistics,  are  the  sources  of  scien- 
tific absurdity.  A  few  sentiments  and  maxims  may  be 
quoted,  as  they  afford  matter  to  appreciate  the  state  of  the 
financial  administration,  and  the  ideas  that  prevail  on  the 
subject  in  the  new  republic.  He  says — *'  The  administra- 
tion of  the  national  finances  are  the  most  essential,  because 
with  revenues  every  thing  may  be  done,  and  without  them 
nothing :  upon  them  depends  the  ease  or  oppression  of  the 
people ;  the  fortunate  or  unfortunate  termination  of  under- 
takings ;  the  greatness  or  ruin  of  nations  :  the  execution 
of  new  laws  on  this  branch  of  government  is  the  most  diffi- 
cult and  tedious  work  that  can  present  itself  to  a  government. 
Theoretical  principles  direct  the  legislator,  the  executive 
should  put  the  deductions  from  these  principles  in  opera- 
tion ;  but  he  has  to  struggle  against  inveterate  habits  of  the 
multitude,  the  prejudices  of  a  great  majority,  the  interests  of 
considerable  number,  the  partialities,  caprices,  sloth,  want 
of  zeal,  or  want  of  understanding.  The  difficulties  become 
frightful  when  to  these  are  added  the  impediments  of  a  pro- 
tracted war,  which  has  impoverished  the  country,  diminish- 
ed its  population,  drained  off  its  capital,  reduced  to  inaction 
the  citizens  under  arms ;  the  increased  expenditure  of  war," 
&c.  "  With  all  these  impediments  it  was  impossible  in 
eighteen  months  to  give  full  effect  to  the  laws.  The  consti- 
tuent congress  fixed  its  eyes  on  the  only  end  of  government 


54-8  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

—the  happiness  of  the  people,  holding  in  view  the  enlight- 
ened principle^  that  every  tax  is  an  evil!  !  !  Ejfc.'*     Such  was 
the  design  when  congress   passed  the  decree  relieving  the 
productions  for  food  and  the  arts  from  the  alcabala ;  the  re- 
duction of  that  tax  to  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  on  foreigu 
productions  and  real  property  ;   the  extinction  of  the  dread- 
ful monopoly  of  spirits  ;  the  abolition  of  the  oppressive  tri- 
bute paid  by  the  aborigines,  the   imposition  of  which  was 
the  greatest  crime  of  the  Spaniards,  because  it  was  an  attempt, 
and  a  successful  one,  to  oppose  the  magnificent  works  ot 
nature,  by  impoverishing  a  country  the  richest  of  the  earth, 
and  where  the  Almighty  had  poured  forth  blessings  in  pro- 
fusion.    It  would   have   been  criminal  to   continue  them. 
This  people  are  now  relieved,  who  had  been  sunk  in  misery 
and  degradation.     Colombians  are  no  longer  watched  by 
the  S/jirrit  who  collected  ih^  alcabala;  nothing  is  now  to  ar- 
rest the  fruits  of  labour  in  its  progress  towards  a  market ; 
those  legions  of  custom-house   officers,   supported   on   the 
impoverishment  of  industry,   have   disappeared,  who  plun- 
dered the  poor  and  were  the  instruments  of  the  frauds  of 
opulence,  and  that  multitude  of  administrators  who  absorbed 
four-fifths  of  what  they  received  from  the  payers  of  taxes. 
The  people  do  not  suffer  the  grief  now  of  seeing  one-tenth 
of  what  was  wrung  from  them  enter  the  public  coffers,  and 
the  other  nine-tenths  enrich   the   tax-gatherers :    they  may 
now  cultivate  sugar-cane  without  being   limited  to  a  small 
quantity,  or  consuming  by  fire  what  they  may  have  cultiva- 
ted  beyond  the  space  prescribed. 

The  suppression  of  imposts  left  a  void,  which  was  felt  the 
more  because  expenses  were  increasing  in  proportion  as  the 
territory  became  free,  and  the  fortresses,  armies,  and  fleets 
augmented.  A  new  system  became  necessary,  founded  on 
congenial  laws.  The  departments  were  organized,  and  the 
system  of  controul  established,  under  the  law  of  6th  Octo- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  549 

ber,   1821.     The  administration  of  the  departments,  pro- 
vinces, chief  towns  of  cantons,  custom-houses,  mints,  fac- 
tories of  tobacco,  &c.  were  organized.     It  could  not  be  ex- 
pected that  all  could  be  perfected  at  once ;  experience  has 
discovered  defects ;  congress  will  be  called  on  to  provide 
remedies  in  a  manner  consistent  with  our  institutions.     The 
statements  required  from  the  distant  points,  requisite  to  fur- 
nish congress  with  authentic  information,  have  been  but  par- 
tially received ;  even  from  Venezuela  few  returns  have  been 
received,  less  from  Guayaquil  and  Quito,  and  fewer  still 
from  Panama.      The  incidents  of  war  and  a  total  change  of 
circumstances,  account  for  these  impediments  ;  and  the  fiscal 
year  closing  with  the  beginning  of  January,  distance  retards 
the  collection  of  the  data  from  remote  stations.     It  is  pro- 
posed to  fix  the  fiscal  year  from  the  first  of  July. 

Notwithstanding,  posterity  will  be  astonished  at  what  has 
been  accomplished — while  numerous  armies,  always  in  ac- 
tivity, were  engaged  in  Venezuela,  Zulia,  Magdalena,  Boy- 
acca,  Cucnca,  Quito,  and  Guayaquil ;  garrisons  in  the  for- 
tresses, a  force  in  the  isthmus,  a  naval  force  created,  em- 
ployed, and  always  in  activity,  and  the  general  administra- 
tion well  supported.  Such  is  the  spectacle  Colombia  pre- 
sents, with  a  very  limited  revenue,  and  very  small  loans,  the 
only  ordinary  resource  that  was  available.  It  may  hereafter 
seem  fabulous  that  a  powerful  enemy  has  been  defeated,  and 
this  great  republic  constituted,  with  nothing  to  rely  on  but 
an  ordinary  revenue  not  exceeding  five  millions  of  dollars, 
and  loans  not  exceeding  a  million.  The  world  will  admire 
the  economy  of  this  republic,  but  the  savings  made  by  sa- 
crifices have  a  limit ;  other  means  must  be  provided  by  the 
wisdom  of  congress.  The  history  of  our  financial  laws 
will  impress  the  necessity. 

Customs.  The  laws  concerning  customs  have  been  strict- 
ly executed,  and  the  reduction  of  the  impost  has  been  found 


660  VISIT  TO  COLOMIJIA. 

salutary.  The  law  which  imposes  a  duty  on  exports  is  an 
obstacle  to  public  prosperity,  and  I  can  aver  it  diminishes 
the  impost  duties ;  it  has  been  executed  every  where,  with 
the  exception  of  a  temporary  exemption  of  coffee,  to  meet  an 
exigency  in  Venezuela,  to  provide  resources  for  the  army, 
at  a  critical  moment.  In  another  memoir,  I  will  lay  before 
Congress  my  ideas  on  the  justice  and  necessity  of  freeing 
all  productions  of  the  country  from  every  export  duty,  in- 
cluding coined  gold  ;  and  tiiat  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  con- 
tinue that  monstrous  duty  upon  presumed  export,  invented 
by  the  distrustful  rapacity  of  Spain.  The  law  endeavoured 
to  triumph  over  the  bad  faith  of  traders,  and  that  the  duty 
on  imported  merchandize  should  be  collected  upon  the  sum 
it  was  presumed  would  be  taken  out  of  the  country.  But 
unreasonable  exaction  produced  retaliating  fraud — False  po- 
licy, with  bad  faith,  contended  against  interests  more  powerful 
than  law,  not  sanctioned  by  reason  or  justice.  Money  was 
withdrawn  clandestinely,  and  merchandize  were  smuggled 
in.  By  this  mistaken  policy,  duties  on  import  and  export 
were  lost.  The  laws  that  regulate  the  tariffs  still  partake  too 
much  of  the  Spanish  errors.  The  duties  on  tonnage  re- 
quire modification,  so  that  our  own  tonnage  may  be  en- 
couraged. 

Tithes.  This  is  a  most  important  aid  to  the  public  trea- 
sury. By  this  fund,  the  support  of  the  ministers  of  religion 
is  secured,  and  the  nation  participates  in  the  product.  It  is 
necessary,  however,  to  equalize  them  in  direction,  collection, 
administration,  and  distribution,  taking  as  models  the  forms 
of  the  archiepiscopal  administration,  by  which  will  be  realized 
the  paradox  of  an  increase  of  revenue,  without  oppression 
but  rather  ease  to  the  people. 

Tobacco.  The  law  of  27th  September  directed  the  con- 
tinuance of  the  monopoly  of  tobacco.  Impulse  has  been 
accordingly  given  to  new  factories,  and  new  ones  establish- 
ed at  St.  Gil,  and  in  Casinare. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  551 

Spirits.  The  law  of  4th  October,  abolished  the  monopoly 
of  spirits,  the  salutary  effects  of  which  are  not  yet  sufficient- 
ly known.  The  entire  prohibition  of  foreign  spirits  is  ne- 
cessary. 

The  Mint.  The  two  mints  existing  (in  Bogota  and  Popa- 
yan)  have  been  destitute  of  resources.  That  of  Popayan  has 
been,  some  time  past,  effectively  employed.  The  occupa- 
tion of  this  capital  by  the  enemy,  and  their  ferocious  ani- 
mosity, not  content  with  letting  the  mint  stand  unproduc- 
tive, they  plundered  and  destroyed  the  machinery.  Both 
mints  are,  however,  constructed  upon  the  Gothic  plan  of 
past  ages,  and  require  to  be  replaced  by  more  perfect,  mo- 
dern engines,  and  improved  implements. 

During  the  year,  the  coining  of  gold  money,  with  the  in- 
signia of  the  republic,  has  commenced,  according  to  the  law 
of  29th  September.  Opposition  has  been  attempted  to  the 
new  coinage,  the  effect  of  disaffection  to  the  government, 
operating  upon  ignorance ;  but  the  new  doubloons,  of  the 
same  intrinsic  purity  and  weight  as  the  best  coin  of  former 
times,  have  been  exported,  and  make  their  way  by  their  own 
value  into  circulation,  where  Spanish  gold  formerly  was 
carried. 

The  working  of  platina  has  been  unsuccessful,  from  the 
'want  of  the  requisite  skill,  of  acids,  and  the  necessary  appa- 
ratus.    The  object  will  not  be  neglected. 

Copper  money  has  also  suffered  impediments.  A  great 
quantity  was  collected  in  the  capital,  and  more  ordered,  but 
the  mechanics  threw  obstacles  in  the  way,  on  the  score  of 
expense,  and  it  was  suspended.  The  utility  of  a  copper  coin 
is  unquestionable,  the  facility  it  affords  in  the  exchange  for 
small  articles  is  obvious.  The  quartillos  and  half  quartillos 
of  the  real^  are  in  some  places  a  good  silver  coin,  in  others 
imaginary,  and  there  are  no  districts  more  needy  than  those 
where  they  are  unknown  as  a  silver  coin.  It  has  not  been 
practicable  to  prosecute  the  silver  coinage,  on  account  of  the 


552  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

loss  that  must  be  incurred.  It  is  therefore  postponed  to  a  pe- 
riod of  more  prosperity. 

Post-Offce.  Tlie  post  has  for  it  natural  object  facility  of 
cominuni(.ai)on  and  correspondence,  and  is  indispensable  to 
public  pnjsperity  ;  irs  object  is  not  by  its  own  produce  to  be- 
come a  matter  of  revenue,  but  if  there  be  a  surplus  over  its 
expenses,  it  appertains  to  the  public  treasury.  The  govern- 
ment  has  endeavoured  to  give  it  more  simplicity,  but  experi- 
ence proves  lliat  it  requires  a  total  amelioration  :  a  weekly 
post  should  arrive  and  depart  from  this  capital  for  each  of  the 
three  grand  territorial  divisions,  and  the  charges  should  be 
in  the  ratio  of  the  average  weight  and  distance,  making  al- 
lowance between  land  and  water  carriage  ;  good  roads  and 
navigation  inland,  are  inseparable  from  this  branch  of  public 
economy. 

Salt  IForks.  The  management  and  administration  of  the 
salt-works  are  matters  ot  much  obscurity.  Nothing  hasyeL 
appeared  in  the  financial  department  in  relation  to  them. 
The  government  has  directed  information  to  be  provided  in 
the  most  circumstantial  form ;  in  the  mean  time  the  rich  salt 
mine  of  Zipacjuira  requires  attention.  An  improvement  in 
the  economy  and  method  of  management  would  afford  a  pro- 
digious return.  The  method  now  pursued,  the  furnaces 
and  boilers,  and  manipulation  generally,  are  all  rude  and 
wasteful  as  they  are  imperfect ;  and  fifty  thousand  dollars, 
jndicioJibiv  employed,  might  double  the  product.  Pure  salt 
is  conducive  to  public  health. 

Stamps.  The  law  of  6th  October  made  an  alteration  in 
the  system  of  stamps,  by  increasing  the  price  of  some  and 
sub -dividing  them  into  classes,  and  suppressing  others. 
Judgments  were  directed  to  be  engrossed  on  the  same  pa- 
per with  the  pleadings.  The  Spanish  laws  are  yet  provi- 
sionally in  force — it  requires  revision  still. 

Alcavalas.  The  law  of  3d  October  suppressed  alcavalas 
on  the  sales  of  articles  of  food  and  the  arts.     The  alcavala  had 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  553 

its  origin  in  barbarous  principles  and  times,  and  was  always 
vexatious, — immoral, — unproductive, — and  unjust — not  to 
be  collected  without  difficulty  and  delay — vexatious  searches 
and  trouble  to  the  contributors.  The  tax-gatherers  added  to 
its  enormity  grievous  exactions,  and  were  equally  implaca- 
ble enemies  to  the  poor,  and  abject  serviles  to  the  rich ;  it 
led  to  concealments,  perjuries,  and  taught  men  to  enrich 
themselves  without  labour  at  the  expense  of  the  public.  It 
was  unproductive,  because  exacted  from  the  wretched  alone, 
the  least  able  to  pay,  while  those  ^vho  were  able  to  pay  eluded 
it  by  a  trifling  bribe ;  it  caused  the  enhancement  of  the 
prices  of  commodities,  and  thus  paralyzed  trade,  and  more 
than  one- tenth  of  it  never  entered  the  public  treasury. 

The  Direct  Tax.  This  law  in  its  principle  fixed  the 
hopes  of  the  country.  Indirect  taxes  have  the  character  of 
hidden  infirmities,  oi  deception ,  and  fraudulent  concealment 
from  those  who  are  taxed  without  seeing  the  hand  that  enacts 
it,  and  are  baleful  to  morals  and  to  liberty.  Direct  taxes 
are  honest  and  open ;  they  preserve  a  due  proportion  with 
incomes  and  profits  ;  there  is  no  vexation  nor  exaction  in 
the  levying ;  the  expense  of  collecting  is  small  and  determi- 
nate. The  law  levying  a  tax  upon  income  is  still  defective ; 
it  wants  clearness,  comprehensiveness,  and  discrimination. 
Different  causes  have  yet  made  it  unproductive ;  disaffected 
persons  have  inveighed  against  it ;  the  intendants  and  go- 
vernors, and  political  judges,  have  been  careless,  or  connived 
at  the  defrauding  of  the  pubhc.  The  want  of  returns  of 
property  with  descriptions,  and  the  scarcity  of  money,  have 
combined  with  the  rest  to  render  the  product  small,  and 
the  vexatious  conduct  of  some  tax-collectors  have  been  seized 
upon  to  oppose  the  tax  as  a  bad  one.  If  the  indirect  taxes 
were  sufficient  for  the  expenditure,  the  direct  might  be  alto- 
gether suppressed  as  unnecessary  ;  but  if  these  be  not  suffi- 
cient, and  it  be  inconceivable  how  a  nation  could  exist  with- 

70 


564  VISIT    TO    COLOMBIA. 

out  revenue,  all  that  can  be  done,  is  so  to  improve  and  amend 
the  law  as  to  render  abuses  impracticable. 

The  foregoing  statements  display  the  state  of  the  financial 
affairs;  the  estimates  of  the  five  departments  show  the 
amount  necessary  to  the  expenditure. 

Two  memorials  will  be  laid  before  congress,  one  respect- 
ing the  laws  on  imports  and  taxes,  which  will  not  propose 
any  new  tax  ;  another  on  the  system  of  administration,  di- 
rected to  the  perfecting  of  the  system,  and  increasing  the 
amount  by  a  more  effective  regulation.  The  great  mystery- 
consists  in  opening  sources  of  public  prosperity  ;  this  belongs 
to  congress.  Every  people  that  has  established  its  indepen- 
dence by  arms  and  victory,  have  passed  tlirough  disasters 
like  Colombia  ;  our  present  duties  are  confined  to  imitating 
their  noble  example ;  and  Colombia  possesses  advantages 
such  as  no  nation  ever  before  possessed. 

All  nations  ncgociate  loans  when  necessary,  and  the  re- 
public must  do  so  likewise ;  and  a  loan  has  been  proposed 
through  the  department  of  foreign  affairs.  It  is  not  to  us  so 
serious  an  affair  as  to  other  countries.  It  is  disagreeable  to 
me  that  this  statement  cannot  be  presented  with  information 
more  detailed,  but  the  defects  are  not  to  be  ascribed  to  want 
of  zeal,  application,  or  labour. 

Report  of  the  Minister  of  JFury  P.  Briceno  Mendez, 
Placed  at  the  head  of  the  departments  of  war  and  navy,  it  is 
my  duty  to  report  on  the  condition  of  our  military  institu- 
tions ;  may  I  be  permitted  to  express  with  all  the  warmth  of 
my  feelings,  how  much  I  participate  in  the  general  joy.  The 
Colombian  army  feels  itself  recompensed  for  its  unsurpassed 
exertions,  for  the  precious  blood  shed  in  thirteen  years  of 
battles,  in  seeing  the  beneficent  authority  of  the  laws  esta- 
blished in  tranquillity  and  freedom.  Those  soldiers  who 
knew  how  to  exalt  themselves  above  every  want,  privation, 
and  danger,  are  ready,  whenever  their  country  calls,  to  be- 
come again  the  models  of  every  heroic  virtue,  to  be  the  first 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  555 

to  repel  tyranny,  and  to  support  the  national  liberty  and  in- 
dependence. 

It  would  be  superfluous  to  recommend  to  Congress  atten- 
tion to  the  services  of  the  army.  To  liberate  the  republic 
from  its  oppressors,  to  preserve  union  and  tranquillity  within, 
has  been  their  hiippy  fortune.  Congress  will  contemplate 
that  neither  a  prepared  organization,  nor  the  force,  nor  the 
means  which  could  be  provided  for  the  army,  corresponded 
with  the  effects  they  have  produced,  the  enterprizes  they 
have  undertaken,  or  the  triumphs  they  have  achieved.  In 
that  irresistible  hurricane  into  which  we  were  impelled  during 
a  long  and  disastrous  contest,  the  establishment  of  any  in- 
variable system  was  not  practicable.  Whatever  has  been 
done  was  for  the  moment,  the  work  of  circumstances,  be- 
cause where  war  and  battles  were  incessant,  changing  every- 
day the  aspect  of  affairs ;  and,  added  to  all,  the  inevitable 
confusion  incident  to  a  change  from  one  system  of  govern- 
ment to  another  wholly  different,  and  the  union  of  districts 
before  independent  of  each  other,  with  lows  unlike  each 
other,  what  has  been  accomplished  is  surprising. 

The  legislative  bodies  would  not  risk  a  change  in  the 
military  institutions  during  the  war,  and  the  regulations  in 
force  under  Spain  were  adopted,  though  the  old  code  has 
become  obsolete,  both  in  the  forms  of  discipline  and  princi- 
ples of  tactics,  owing  to  the  progress  of  the  science,  arising 
out  of  the  French  Revolution. 

The  generous  zeal  of  the  chiefs  made  up  for  the  want  of 
system ;  corps  were  instructed  according  to  the  experience 
of  the  officer  placed  in  command ;  the  levies  made  upon 
emergency  did  not  allow  of  selection,  recruits  were  taken 
without  distinction  of  age  or  condition  ;  the  married  and 
even  those  who  had  numerous  families  filled  the  ranks ;  a 
change  from  peace  and  abundance  to  a  life  of  military  hard- 
ships and  privations,  and  the  dangers  arising  from  change 
«f  climate  ;  an  inevitable  necessity,  the  choice  between  eter- 


556  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

nal  slavery  and  freedom,  demanded  the  conscription.  It  i 
not  thcrelbre  extraordinary  that  great  armies  should  hav 
been  swallowed  up  without  augmenting  the  eftective  force  ; 
desertions,  diseases,  and  battle,  dissolve  the  best  armies. 
Convinced  of  these,  and  other  circumstances,  an  attempt  was 
made  last  year  to  produce  a  better  system  ;  but  the  state  of 
the  treasury  did  not  sustain  the  effort ;  and  a  reduction  of 
numbers  became  the  substitute.  But  the  vices  and  abuses 
that  remain,  derived  from  the  Spanish  system,  also  lead  to 
disorganization,  and,  in  truth,  it  would  be  preferable  to  pro- 
ceed without  any  mihtary  administration,  than  that  the  pre- 
sent should  remain.  Much  of  the  evils  have  arisen  from  er- 
roneous ideas  of  economy  ;  which,  by  diminishing  the  num- 
ber of  the  necessary  officers,  several  functions  were  bestowed 
on  the  few  retained,  by  which  means  nothing  was  well  done, 
and  the  saving  of  a  few  hundred  dollars  pay  wasted  many 
thousands,  and  many  lives.  At  length  no  officers  could  be 
found  to  entangle  themselves  in  responsibilities  which  they 
could  not  fulfil ;  a  whole  corps  have  been  so  placed  that  it 
was  not  possible  to  discover  to  whom  pay  was  due,  or  to 
whom  it  had  been  advanced. 

After  this  lamentable  exposition  it  may  be  consoling  to 
learn  that,  in  the  present  year,  some  order  has  been  introduced, 
and,  although  the  army  has  not  received,  for  years,  nearly 
half  its  pay  ;  in  some  departments  not  one  third  ;  in  others 
not  one  fourth  ;  but  now  all  the  corps  are  clothed,  and  the 
magazines  contain  equipments  for  a  greater  number;  and 
pay  has  been  advanced  in  a  greater  proportion.  I  am  not 
yet  furnished  with  all  the  returns  necessary  to  a  complete  dc- 
tail ;  it  must  be  the  work  of  time  and  system. 

Strength  of  the  Army.  When  Congress  closed  its  ses- 
sion, in  1821,  the  public  force  consisted  of  22,975  men. 
The  garrisons  necessary  to  be  guarded,  and  the  predatory 
expeditions  of  the  enemy,  caused  it  to  be  augmented  to 
32,566  men  ;  of  the  following  classes  : 


m 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  657 


Infantry     •     , 

.     25,750  men 

Cavalry     .     . 

.       4,296 

Artillery   .     , 

2,520     32,566. 

All  this  force  was  enlisted  without  limitation.  There  arc 
few  in  service  of  those  enlisted  in  1817,  1818,  and  1819 ; 
the  greater  portion  are  of  1820.  No  bounty  or  addition  to 
pay  are  known  in  our  service.  The  cavalry,  hitherto 
mounted  by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the  citizens,  for 
temporary  service,  require  to  be  entirely  remounted  ;  a  thou- 
sand abuses  arise  out  of  the  want  of  an  anticipated  provision  ; 
the  soldier  losing  his  horse  in  service,  contemplates  the  duty 
to  his  country  only — disregarding  private  property,  seizes 
a  horse  against  the  will  of  the  owner ;  the  officer,  who  has 
not  the  means  to  provide,  actuated  by  public  zeal,  connives 
at  such  means,  because  they  afford  strength  to  his  corps,  or 
prevent  its  dissolution. 

In  the  artillery  force  are  comprehended  four  hundred  arti- 
sans employed  in  the  military  arsenals ;  the  remainder  can- 
not be  dispensed  with  in  the  service  of  garrisons.  So  long 
as  the  war  exists,  the  immense  line  of  our  coasts,  and  the 
desperation  of  our  enemies,  require  that  the  present  force  be 
maintained;  the  number  is  short  of  one  per  cent,  of  our  po- 
pulation. 

Organization.  No  provision  was  made  by  congress  in 
1821,  when  the  civil  departments  were  instituted,  for  the  mi- 
litary organization.  The  pre-existing  territorial  division  into 
intendancies,  pointed  out  a  corresponding  order  of  military 
districts.  This  incident  has  been  conducive  to  that  order 
which  has  so  admirably  prevailed  throughout  the  republic, 
though  there  is  still  ample  room  for  improvement.  At  the 
head  of  each  division  or  department  there  is  a  general  com- 
mandant with  his  staff,  reduced  indeed  to  the  lowest  possi- 
ble standard  :  one  chief  of  the  staff,  two  aids,  and  two  clerks, 


958  VISIT  TO  COLOMllIA. 

which,  witli  the  local  commandants  in  the  provinces  and  for- 
tresses, constitute  the  Ibrce  of  each  mihtary  department. 

The  infantry  is  organized  in  battahons,  with  the  exception 
of  the  corps  forming  the  government  guard,  to  be  subse- 
quently noticed  ;  it  consists  of  twenty-five  battalions  of  the 
line,  and  five  of  light  troops.  Some  are  difflrently  organ- 
ized, having  only  five  or  six  companies,  but  are  ordered  to 
to  be  organized  into  battalions  of  eight,  which  is  now  the 
composition  of  the  greater  number. 

Each  battalion  consists  of  one  company  of  grenadiers,  one 
of  light  infantry,  six  of  fusileers;  each  company  consists  of  one 
hundred  effectives,  and  four  commissioned  officers;  the  light 
companies  each  one  commissioned  officer  more.  The  se- 
parate battalions  had  a  heavy  staff  proportioned  to  their  for- 
mer composition;  the  new  organization,  by  augmenting  the 
battalions  to  an  uniform  number  of  companies,  reduces  the 
number  of  officers.  But  the  extent  of  our  country,  the  de- 
solation of  the  war,  and  our  peculiar  mode  of  warfare,  are 
opposed  to  the  formation  of  very  numerous  corps. 

The  battalion  staff  consists  of  the  commandant  taken  from 
the  colonels  or  lieutenant-colonels,  a  major,  two  adjutants, 
one  ensign,  one  surgeon,  one  chaplain,  an  armourer,  drum- 
major,  and  seven  pioneers. 

The  cavalry  organization  is  more  defective  ;  it  consists  of 
twenty-four  squadrons,  some  of  which  are  detached,  others 
in  regiments,  besides  the  six  squadrons  of  the  guard,  which 
form  a  brigade.  The  same  irregularity  prevails  in  the  cavalry 
squadrons  as  in  the  infantry  battalions,  some  being  composed 
of  three  troops,  according  to  the  older^Prussian  system,  others 
according  to  the  preferable  and  more  modern,  of  two  troops 
to  the  squadron.  Each  troop  of  the  former  consists  of  fifty 
men,  and  three  commissioned  officers ;  the  latter  of  eighty 
men,  and  four  officers.  Of  the  twenty-four  squadrons,  there 
are  eighteen  of  the  line,  lancers,  or  dragoons,  the  other  six 
are  light  hussars.     The  staff  of  each  was  as  incompatible  as 


V13IT  TO  COLOMBIA.  559 

that  of  the  infantry ;  for  every  hundred  and  fifty  or  hun- 
dred and  sixty  men  had  eight  or  nine  officers.  There  is  a 
lieutenant -colonel  commandant,  two  adjutants,  a  cornet,  sur- 
geon, chaplain,  armourer,  saddler,  farrier,  and  trumpeter, 
with  the  title  of  major  in  their  respective  ranks.  The  greater 
number  of  corps  are  destitute  of  the  workmen. 

The  artillery  is  but  of  recent  institution.  The  rapidity  of 
our  marches ;  the  carnage  in  our  battles,  principally  decided 
by  close  combat ;  the  want  of  roads  capable  of  admitting  the 
transport  of  carriages,  have  made  us  indifferent  to  this  terri- 
ble species  of  arms,  so  perfect  and  decisive  in  modern  war- 
fare ;  since  the  occupation  of  our  fortresses  it  has  become 
necessary.  Besides  the  2120  men  of  which  it  consists,  there 
are  four  hundred  artisans  in  the  arsenals.  The  corps  is  com- 
posed of  twenty-four  companies,  of  one  hundred  men,  and 
five  officers  each.  When  there  are  four  companies  in  a  de- 
tachment, they  form  a  brigade,  and  have  a  lieutenant-colonel 
commandant,  and  two  adjutants;  when  the  number  is  more 
than  one  and  less  than  four,  they  are  denominated  dcmi-bri- 
gades,  and  the  senior  captain  commands,  having  an  adjutant 
attached.     The  separate  companies  remain  without  a  staff. 

This  organization  requires  further  improvement. 

There  does  not  exist  a  single  squadron  of  flying  artillery, 
although,  if  a  glance  be  cast  on  the  immense  plains  of  the  re- 
public, no  country  could  be  better  adapted  for  such  a  force. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  engineers  of  works,  and  topogra- 
phy, and  of  sappers,  of  which  there  are  only  two  or  three 
in  the  service,  and  without  employment  in  the  line  or  any 
special  duty. 

The  Government  Guard.  This  corps  is  comprised  in  the 
strength  of  the  army  :  it  is  treated  separately  on  account  of  its 
peculiar  organization.  It  consists  of  ten  battalions  of  infantry, 
and  six  regiments  of  cavalry,  of  the  same  composition  as  the 
rest  of  the  army.  The  difference  consisting  in  this,  that  the 
infantry  forms  a  division  under  the  command  of  a  general 


560  VISIT  TO  CULOMUIA. 

of  division,  subdivided  into  two  brigades,  with  a  brigadier  or 
colonel  to  each.  The  cavalry  forms  another  brigade  com- 
manded also  by  a  brigadier.  The  two  branches  have  a  com- 
mandant general,  with  the  staff  such  as  appertains  to  a  corps 
of  the  army. 

The  guard,  created  by  the  Liberator  President,  when  he 
filled  the  station  of  commander  in  chief  in  Venezuela,  has 
been  since  augmented  by  the  addition  of  corps,  that  have 
distinguished  themselves  by  their  disciphne,  example,  or  in- 
trepidity. They  enjoy  no  other  privilege  or  distinction, 
than  being  the  oldest  in  the  army,  furnishing  the  guard  of 
honour  to  the  government,  and  being  the  first  on  all  occa- 
sions to  march  and  meet  the  enemy.  This  institution  has 
produced  a  noble  and  salutary  emulation.  Two  battalions 
and  a  squadron  were  incorporated  with  it  last  year  on  ac- 
count of  brilliant  services. 

Adininistration.  It  does  not  merit  the  name,  and  I  have 
said  so,  and  shown  the  cause  of  its  bad  condition.  It  must  be 
newly  organized,  without  which  it  will  not  be  practicable  to 
account  for  the  funds  appropriated  for  its  service.  The  go- 
vernment has  been  under  the  necessity  of  calling  upon  trea- 
surers of  departments,  to  take  charge  of  the  military  disburse- 
ments, and  exercise  the  functions  of  commissaries  or  audi- 
tors, by  inspecting  the  propriety  and  authority  for  the  is- 
sues. One  inconvenience  I  notice,  and  shall  pass  over  others, 
and  then  tire  congress  no  longer.  Money  having  become 
the  general  recompense,  and  the  only  means  of  providing 
for  wants  and  comforts,  has  also  become  the  foundation  of  all 
enterprises.  The  militar)^  chief  should,  therefore,  be  exactly 
acquahited  with  his  means  and  resources  beforehand.  If 
he  cannot  contract  for  means  or  direct  expenditures  that  arc 
indispensable,  he  is  liable  to  be  frustrated  at  every  move- 
ment. Without  unity  of  action  he  must  be  compelled  to 
reveal  the  secret  of  his  combinations,  and  military  operations 
must  fail.     While  any  other  autliority  has  a  right  to  inter- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  561 

fere  in  his  dispositions,  time  is  wasted  in  painful  altercations, 
responsibility  is  divided  and  diminished,  and  if  unfortunately 
jealousy  or  enmity,  want  of  confidence,  or  rivalry  exist,  the 
most  innocent  actions  become  subjects  of  accusation  or  im- 
putation, and  the  passions  of  individuals  prevail  against  the 
interest  of  the  country  ;  for  such  is  the  frailty  of  human  na- 
ture, in  all  ages  and  countries. 

Clothing  and  Pay.  Notwithstanding  the  absence  of  sys- 
tem, the  army  has  been  clothed,  though  not  uniformly.  The 
regulation  of  these  branches  is  demanded  by  necessity.  The 
strict  regulation  of  uniforms  is  also  indispensable,  to  avoid 
the  capricious  luxury  of  vanity,  and  the  inequality  of  corps. 
The  mode  for  verifying  accounts  calls  also  for  a  law. 

Arms.  The  formation  of  a  depot  of  arms,  besides  supply- 
ing the  army,  has  been  the  care  of  government.  Experi- 
ence, purchased  very  dearly,  has  taught  the  prudence  of  this. 
All  the  troops  of  the  line  are  well  armed ;  the  light  infantry 
and  artillery  are  armed  with  carabines  ;  the  cavalry  of  the  line 
with  the  lance,  that  formidable  weapon,  which  has  been  the 
instrument  of  safety  and  salvation  to  the  republic  ;  the  light 
cavalry  bear  carabines,  and  sabres,  or  lances.  The  arsenals 
contain  20,000  spare  stands  of  musquets,  of  which  many 
require  repair.  There  are  sufficient  to  defend  the  republic. 
The  variety  of  calibres  is  an  inconvenience,  being  of  the 
manufacture  of  France,  Germany,  Spain,  England,  and  the 
United  States.  Those  of  English  fabric  amount  to  30,000  ; 
and  out  of  28,000  purchased  last  year  17,000  are  English. 
12,000  more  contracted  for,  may  be  hourly  expected. 

The  carabines  are  mostly  formed  of  old  muskets,  the 
weight  of  which  renders  them  not  so  effective  or  convenient 
for  service.  The  accoutrements  of  all  corps  are  in  good 
order,  and  our  workshops  are  employed  upon  them.  The 
cavalry  accoutrements  are  not  so  good,  but  the  workshopfs 
will  supply  the  deficiency  by  better  articles. 

71 


662  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Militia.  However  numerous  the  regular  army  may  be, 
it  cannot  be  omnipresent.  A  militia,  well  organized,  has 
this  character  of  ubiquity.  It  preserves  the  medium  be- 
tween military  and  civil  life,  and,  in  the  very  bosom  of  their 
families,  they  make  excellent  soldiers,  and  develope  their  ta- 
lents. It  is  the  best  army  of  reserve,  and  the  most  solid 
foundation  of  public  liberty  and  security.  Two  mistakes 
should  be  avoided  in  its  formation,  though  concealed  under 
a  supposed  good.  Firsts  .?'ving  it  too  great  an  extension, 
which  renders  it  useless.  Secojid^  the  false  prudence  which 
would  mislead  the  militia  man,  that  the  parade  and  exercise 
is  a  mere  form — that  he  will  never  be  called  upon  to  perform 
the  duties  of  a  soldier, — when  the  very  foundation  of  all  re- 
publics is,  that  every  man  should  be  prepared  to  defend  his 
country  and  liberties,  and  that  he  must  be  infamous  who  would 
withhold  himself.  The  laws,  and  practices,  have  contributed 
to  the  inefficiency  ;  for,  although  all  men  owe  a  duty,  it  is  not 
that  all  will  be  at  once  called  upon  to  perform  it ;  instead  of 
selecting  a  class  by  age,  the  laws  have  followed  the  ge- 
neral principle  by  comprehending  the  whole  population  at 
once.  The  constitution  itself,  by  withdrawing  the  militia 
from  military  subordination,  has  mjured  what  it  endeavour- 
ed to  perfect.  The  want  of  a  regulation  confirmed  the  in- 
sufficiency. A  special  report  will  make  its  condition  known. 

There  are  but  thirteen  battalions  of  militia  infantry  in 
the  republic,  organized  like  the  army,  of  which  ten  were 
formed  this  year  in  the  departments  of  Magdalena,  Panama, 
and  Quito,  for  which  the  government  is  indebted  to  the 
commandant  general.  Forty  thousand  men  might  be  form- 
ed out  of  the  fifty  thousand  that  exist  in  detached  compa- 
nies, a  greater  force  than  could  be  required  to  repel  any  in- 
vasion. 

There  are  twenty  squadrons  of  irregular  cavalry ;  out  of 
these  twelve  regiments  might  be  formed,  making  8590  men. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  563 

There  are  only  seven  companies  of  one  hundred  men  each, 
of  militia  artillery.     But  none  of  the  militia  are  armed. 

Fortresses.  There  are  some  which  should  be  demolished  ; 
others,  neglected  during  the  war,  require  substantial  repairs 
to  prevent  their  entire  ruin.  Some  should  be  erected  also 
in  fit  positions ;  but  these  are  the  work  of  future  seasons. 

Parks  of  Artillery. — Thtse  have  been  vastly  augmented 
during  the  war,  but  do  not  yet  suffice  for  the  defence  of  our 
frontier.  Gunpowder,  lead,  balls,  and  muskets,  cannot  be 
dispensed  with.  The  quantity  required  of  each  must  be  the 
subject  of  dehberation. 

Barracks  and  Cantonments. — The  forces  maintained  be- 
fore the  revolution  by  Spain,  had  only  for  object  to  maintain 
tranquillity  ;  one  or  two  battalions  in  some  principal  point  or 
garrison  were  the  strongest  force  kept  together.  Quarters 
for  the  troops  were  calculated  accordingly.  The  citizens 
have  supplied  the  deficiency  cheerfully  during  the  war;  rent 
has  been  sometimes  paid,  but  very  seldom  has  it  been  re- 
quired. Our  soldiers  hitherto  have  slept  on  the  earth  ;  quarters 
should  be  provided,  and  our  soldiers  will  not  in  future  give 
so  much  trouble  in  the  hospitals.  The  Spaniards,  who  were 
intolerable  tyrants,  by  quartering  officers  on  the  people,  excit- 
ed execration  ;  and  there  should  be  provision  to  guard  against 
incurring  the  same  reproach.  It  is  necessary  to  discipline  that 
officers  should  quarter  where  their  troops  are  quartered. 

Manufactories. — There  are  two  for  gunpowder,  one  in 
Quito,  the  other  near  this  capital  in  a  bad  condition.  Data 
are  wanting  to  ascertain  the  expenses.  That  near  this  capital 
has  but  one  mill  of  four  mallets,  which  grind  330  quintals  a 
year.  Cost  824,937  :  four  reals  is  more  than  powder  could  be 
procured  from  abroad  for.  The  saltpetre  works  of  the  republic 
have  been  given  upon  contract  to  persons  who  prepare  the 
nitre,  and  sell  it  to  government.  This  arrangement  has  con- 
siderably reduced  the  price  of  powder,  which  cost  fifty  per 
cent,  more  than  at  present,  when  nitre  was  prepared  at  public 
expense. 


5^^  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Invalids  and  Retired  Soldiers. — Establishments  should  be 
formed  for  them  in  each  department.  The  government  has 
no  other  law  than  its  gratitude  to  regulate  its  conduct  towards 
those  martyrs  of  liberty.  The  moment  which  almost  com- 
pleted the  triumph  of  our  arms  permitted  some  relief  to  be 
offered  to  them,  and  it  was  as  much  as  could  be  given.  Six- 
teen chiefs  and  sixty -four  officers  retired  last  year,  some  on 
half  pyy,  others  on  the  third  or  fourth  of  the  pay  of  their  last 
rank.  Some  have  also  retired  without  demanding  any  re- 
muneration. 

Military  Instruction. — The  first  care  oF  Spanish  domina- 
tion was  to  keep  at  a  distance  from  our  country  every  thing 
that  could  enlighten  or  enable  us  to  feel  our  own  strength, 
and  this  malignity  was  carried  to  that  extreme  which  caused 
us  to  be  unacquainted  with  the  most  necessary  arts  of  life. 
Thence  it  was,  that  on  proclaiming  our  emancipation  we  had 
no  chiefs  or  officers  to  lead  us,  and  if  experience  and  genius 
have  provided  some,  after  so  many  disasters,  it  only  proves 
the  dispositions  and  capacities  of  our  youth.  Congress,  in 
providing  the  means  of  public  information,  overlooked  the 
army,  the  foundation  upon  which  it  has  been  raised.  Phi- 
losophy is  not  the  director  of  the  world  ;  unmixed  good  is  a 
chimera  ;  true  wisdom  is  found  in  distinguishing  that  obscure 
line  which  separates  it  from  relative  good.  If  a  nation  of 
philosophers  were  possible,  their  laws  would  be  fit  only  for 
themselves;  they  would  have  good  fathers  of  families  and  vir- 
tuous magistrates  ;  but  tliey  would  be  the  prey  and  the  sport 
of  their  neighbours.  Unarmed  virtue  must  yield  to  force, 
military  skill,  and  the  custom  of  conquering  and  slaying. 

Colombia  above  all  nations  requires  military  education. 
Our  position,  central  on  the  globe,  makes  us  the  neighbours 
of  all  maritime  nations,  and  gives  us  for  rivals  the  most  pow- 
erful states  of  this  continent ;  we  should,  therefore,  be  pre- 
pared. The  seas  which  separate  us  from  the  old  world  afe 
no  longer  a  barrier,  since  navies  serve  as  an  immeasurable 
bridge. 


VISIT  TO  COLO»rBIA.  565 

Besides  the  want  of  military  colleges  capable  of  forming 
officers  and  engineers,  we  have  no  uniform  system  of  instruc- 
tion and  tactics,  in  any  branch  of  the  army ;  but  it  is  chiefly 
remarkable  in  the  infantry  and  cavalry.  A  system  is  neces- 
sary, were  it  only  to  root  out  the  prejudices  of  different  sys- 
tems, and  the  caprices  of  chiefs,  producing  a  want  of  unity, 
and  leaving  to  the  generals  a  double  difficulty  of  combining 
corps  difterently  instructed.  A  commission  of  general  officers 
was  formed  in  January  last  year.  Their  proceedings  shall 
be  laid  before  Congress. 

Fulfilment  of  the  Laws. — The  whole  army  have  sworn  to 
the  constitution  as  required  by  the  decree  of  20th  September 
1821,  and  with  just  rejoicings,  and  a  copy  is  ordered  to  be 
kept  in  the  major's  office  of  every  corps.  The  mode  of  pay- 
ment prescribed  by  the  decree  of  7th  December  was  carried 
into  effi;ct. 

The  Armies  and  their  Operations. — At  the  close  of  the  last 
legislature,  six  corps  were  engaged  in  operations.  The  first, 
under  J.  F.  Bermudez,  besieged  Cumana,  which  resisted 
our  attacks  at  different  periods  for  eight  years ;  the  second, 
under  Jose  A.  Paez,  blockaded  Porto  Cabello,  where  the 
wreck  of  the  Spanish  army  took  shelter  after  the  battle  of  Ca- 
rabobo ;  the  third  concentrated  at  Santa  Marta,  under  Mar. 
Montilla,  intended  for  the  Isthmus;  the  fourth  besieging 
Cartagena  from  1820 ;  the  other  two  covering  Guayaquil  and 
Popayan  against  the  enemy's  force,  then  occupying  Quito. 
These  were  under  the  Liberator  president,  for  whom  the  libe- 
ration  of  the  south  was  reserved.  The  heights  of  Juanambu 
and  Guaitara,  and  the  deleterious  deserts  of  Patia,  had  opposed 
a  barrier  to  our  arms,  which  some  thought  insuperable ;  to 
these  natural  impediments,  others  were  added :  the  division 
of  Guayaquil,  attacked  at  the  end  of  the  year  1821,  obtained 
a  briliiaiu  victory,  and  Gen.  Sucre  was  animated  to  prosecute 
operations ;  this  army  experienced  a  reverse ;  the  division 
was  nearly  destroyed,  and  that  of  Popayan,  which  moved  to 


566  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

reinforce  it,  met  a  similar  fate  from  the  climate  of  Patia. 
Tlicse  adverse  circumstances  were  aggravated  by  the  cn- 
tnince  of  the  Spanish  general  Murjeon  into  Quito,  bringing 
arms  and  munitions  of  war,  of  which  the  enemy  stood  in 
need,  with  veteran  troops  and  experienced  officers ;  and  still 
more,  the  naval  force,  which  conveyed  them,  interrupted  the 
communication  between  Choco  and  Guayaquil,  separating 
also  the  corps  in  Popayan. 

It  was  necessary  to  create  and  organize  the  army  anew, 
relaxed  bv  disaster  and  suffering.  A  genius  of  constancy 
and  resource  only,  could  meet  these  events  undismayed  ; 
without  a  fleet,  without  ships  to  deceive  the  enemy's  squad- 
ron, troops  were  transported  by  Panama  and  Buenaventura 
to  Guayaquil.  Instead  of  a  superannuated  general,  the  new 
Spanish  chief  was  distinguished  by  activity,  valour,  and  talent, 
and  clothed  with  unlimited  powers.  The  Spanish  force  now 
so  augmented,  that,  instead  of  one  army,  they  presented 
three  ;  and  to  complete  all,  Popayan  became  unhealthy.  The 
army,  inactive,  was  eaten  up  by  disease ;  the  Spaniards 
strengthening  themselves  daily  ;  to  open  the  campaign  under 
such  circumstances  would  seem  to  compromise  every  thing. 

The  Liberator  President  determined  and  succeeded  in  re- 
inforcing Guayaquil  with  troops  from  Colombia,  and  a 
column  from  Peru,  which  had  joined  General  Sucre  from 
Cuenca ;  at  the  same  time  the  division  from  Popayan,  strongly 
reinforced  by  corps  sent  by  the  government,  and  part  of  the 
veteran  troops  from  Santa  Martha,  were  put  in  motion. 

The  enemy,  though  so  strong,  would  not  encounter  either 
of  the  corps,  and  concentrated  his  army  on  the  shelving 
rocks  of  Pastos,  and  the  elevated  sierra  of  Quito,  in  order  to 
secure  the  adherence  of  the  people  in  Pastos  and  Patia  ;  and 
under  an  expectation  of  weakening  our  force  by  obliging  us 
to  march  through  an  insalubrious  desert.  One  affair  at 
Riobamba,  two  battles  at  Bombona  and  Pinchincha,  de- 
molished all  the  sanguine  hopes  of  the  Spanish  chief.     Led 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  567 

by  the  Liberator  and  General  Sucre,  wherever  our  arms  ap- 
peared they  triumphed,  and  the  enemy  required  a  capitula- 
tion, dchvering  up  his  arms.  The  south  of  the  repubHc 
thus  hberatcd,  a  spontaneous  declaration  of  gratitude  was 
followed  by  a  proclamation  of  incorporation. 

This  severe  but  brilliant  campaign  being  closed,  our  neigh- 
bours of  Peru,  menaced  by  a  Spanish  army,  called  for  our 
aid.  Three  battalions  marched  for  Peru,  and  were  united 
with  another  already  on  service  there.  A  treaty  was  pro- 
posed, to  place  our  troops  on  the  basis  of  those  of  Peru  ;  but 
the  government  recently  installed  there  hesitated,  and  our 
three  battalions  returned  to  Guayaquil,  where  they  went  into 
good  quarters. 

The  battles  of  Bombona  and  Pinchincha  gave  peace  to 
the  south  ;  but  the  capitulations  of  Quito  and  Berruecos 
were  a  short  time  disturbed  by  a  Spanish  chief  in  Pastos, 
who  escaped  from  the  depot  of  prisoners  at  Quito.  After 
three  engagements  they  were  chastised.  An  insurrection  in 
Coro  was  soon  suppressed,  and  an  amnesty  published.  But 
the  troops  who  accomplished  it  were  destined  to  share  in  a 
glorious  achievement  at  Carabobo,  where  the  Spaniards  lost 
their  army  and  their  arrogance. 

The  report  continues  the  history  down  to  its  date,  but  the 
events  in  Venezuela  being  better  known  than  those  west  of 
the  Andes,  they  have  not  the  same  interest. 

The  Report  on  Naval  Affairs  was  presented  by  the  head 
the  War  Department.  The  Secretary  acknowledges  his  in- 
sufficiency of  knowledge  on  naval  affairs,  not  having  be- 
longed to  the  navy,  and  having  had  no  leisure  to  cultivate  it. 
The  geographical  position  of  Colombia,  the  number  of  its 
excellent  ports,  the  abundance  and  richness  of  its  produc- 
tions, decide  for  a  naval  force.  A  thousand  leagues  of  coast 
open  an  easy  access,  and  could  not  be  covered  by  a  large 
regular  army. 


568  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

The  services  of  a  generous  foreigner,  (commodore  Brion,) 
who,  led  by  the  love  of  hberty,  devoted  his  fortune  and  his 
life  to  the  service  of  the  republic,  induced  the  government, 
in  1816,  to  create  the  office  of  admiral,  who  exercised  the 
control,  command,  and  administration  of  the  navy  ;  but  va- 
rious causes  rendered  it  ultimately  inefficient.  The  Con- 
gress, by  the  law  of  4th  October,  perceived  the  cause,  and, 
in  part,  removed  it.  The  office  of  admiral  was  suppressed. 
Without  the  friendship  of  any  maritime  power,  without  ar- 
senals, gunners,  ship-builders,  or  competent  officers  or  sea- 
men, and  even  without  pecuniary  means  to  build  or  buy 
them,  the  battle  of  Carabobo  had  changed  the  character  of 
the  war,  and  demanded  a  naval  force.  The  effiDrts  made  un- 
der the  law  of  4th  October  produced  what  we  desired.  Our 
fleet  increased,  from  the  five  left  by  the  late  admiral  was 
augmented  to  nineteen,  six  corvettes,  seven  brigs,  and  six 
schooners.  Among  the  former  is  the  Spanish  corvette  Ma^ 
ria  Francisca,  captured  by  a  ship  of  the  republic. 

Our  vessels  of  war  are  commanded  and  manned  chiefly  by 
foreigners.  Under  the  monopoly  of  Spain,  sailors  could  not 
be  formed.  The  law  of  27th  September  admitted  foreign 
seamen,  who  came  generously  to  offer  their  services,  bringing 
with  them  an  important  science,  and  an  example  for  our 
population.  We  have  a  navy,  we  must  have  arsenals  and 
magazines  to  repair  and  replace  vessels.  Carthagena  pre- 
sents a  fine  station  for  a  dock-yard,  and  one  of  its  castles  is 
assigned  for  an  arsenal.  The  expenses  for  naval  affairs  for 
the  current  year  are  4,770,845  dollars. 

These  reports  combine  the  best  and  most  authentic  state 
of  the  republic  at  the  beginning  of  1823.  But  Colombia, 
like  the  United  States  after  its  revolution,  will  require  a  new 
history  every  four  or  five  years. 


569 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Departure  from  Bogota — Qulndiu — Facitativa — sleep  on  the  domestic  altar-*- 
knavery  of  muleteers — Rio  Dulce — uncivil  ecclesiastics— escape  a  troublesome 
traveller—  stupendous  steeps — Guadas — Colonel  Acosta — enviably  happy  man 
— icratcha,  species  of  pheasant — the  Bodega  of  Honda — Honda — la  manana— 
champans — and  bogas — hints  to  travellers. 

My  friend  Mr.  John  Gethen,  of  Philadelphia,  and  my- 
self, agreed  to  proceed  down  the  Magdalena  together,  and 
at  8  o'clock,  the  27th  April,  1823,  we  left  Bogota.  We 
were  attended  by  my  invaluable  guide  Sergeant  Proctor, 
and  a  valet,  from  the  island  of  St.  Bartholomew's.  In  dis- 
posing of  my  mules,  the  sergeant  had  reserved  the  use  of 
them  to  carry  me  and  my  young  fellow-travellers  to  Honda. 
The  sergeant  had  already  escorted  them,  and  now  kindly 
undertook  the  same  good  offices  for  me,  and  would  have  fol- 
lowed me  over  the  world  if  I  were  in  the  mood.  Mr.  G. 
had  not  been  treated  honestly  in  the  mules  furnished ;  as  his 
experience  had  not  prepared  him  for  such  sorry  mules  as 
were  brought,  and  when  we  had  no  alternative.  The  day 
was  however  delicious,  though  it  was  somewhat  tedious,  as 
my  mules  were  eager  to  push  on  in  their  accustomed  gait. 
But  we  had  not  completed  more  than  one  half  of  the  day's 
march,  when  we  were  compelled  to  halt  at  a  ranchoy  and 
transfer  my  baggage  to  one  of  Mr.  G.'s  mules,  and  hire  one 
extra  in  place  of  that  broken  down.  This  was  the  more  to 
be  complained  of,  because  the  road  over  which  we  had  so  far 
travelled  was  equal  to  any  in  the  world. 

Upon  descending  from  the  city  to  the  great  road,  towards 
the  Magdalena,  the  country  presented  a  beautiful  verdant 
carpet.  The  road  was  constructed  with  great  skill,  and  well- 
directed  lalxDur  ;  it  could  not  be  less  than  one  hundred  feet 
wide  for  several  miles,  and  each  side  occupied  by  long  ranges 


570  VISIT  TO   COLOMHIA. 

of  thatched  and  tiled  houses,  the  habitationsof  muleteers  and 
husbandmen  :  there  are  spacious  ditches  on  each  side  of  this 
road,  and,  after  advancing  something  north  of  west,  a  fine 
pavement  of  about  twenty  feet  broad  occupies  the  midway, 
with  convenient  foot-paths  on  either  side. 

The  Funza  intersects  this  road,  a  lake  which  appears  to 
have  been  formerly  more  ample,  but  is  now  gradually  be- 
coming a  swamp,  of  which  the  white  heron  and  the  grey 
heron  betray  the  shallowness,  by  constantly  traversing  the  bed 
of  water  in  all  directions,  and  the  growth  of  rushes  indicate 
the  swamp.  A  small  rivulet,  which  (I  only  suspect)  flows 
from  a  source  further  west,  nearer  to  Facitativa,  proceeds  in  a 
souih-east  current,  and  unites  with  the  Funza.  These  waters 
form  streams  so  considerable,  that  five  stone  bridges  of  ex- 
cellent architecture  cross  them  at  different  parts  of  this  road. 
One  of  those  bridges  of  three  arches  is  handsome,  and  all  of 
them  of  the  best  workmanship. 

On  some  of  those  bridges  are  the  wrecks  of  armorial  insig- 
nia, which  were  originally  in  relief,  rather  ancient  in  style.  I 
understood  some  of  them  designated  the  arms  of  some  vice- 
roy, but  those  who  were  asked  usually  told  some  story  of 
viceregal  outrage,  and  evaded  telling  the  name.  The  bridges 
were  however  good,  with  handsome  wing  walls  and  battlements, 
and  reduced  the  distance  perhaps  to  one-third  that  must  be 
travelled  over  were  there  no  bridges.  After  passing  those 
bridges,  that  part  of  the  plain  which  is  crossed  to  visit  Ta- 
quendama  opens  on  the  view  south,  and  its  perpetual  vapour 
is  seen  rising  above  its  forest-clad  hills. 

Immediately  after  crossing,  a  village  is  seen  ;  it  is  the  ori- 
ginal Bogota;  there  the  Spaniards  first  established  them- 
selves; the  present  city  being  founded  only  after  some 
experience  of  unhealthiness  on  the  borders  of  this  swamp. 
Appearances  indicate  that  this  pool  will  disappear  altogether, 
but  the  village  is  populous,  and  the  cultivation  all  around  is 
ample.     The  green  side  banks  and  the  pastures  on  each  side 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  571 

of  this  road  were  mottled  with  mushrooms,  of  the  best  edi- 
ble kind,  {agaricus  campestris,)  of  which  we  picked  and 
saved  a  small  basket  for  a  travelling  bon  bouche* 

The  plain  of  Bogota  is  seen  in  its  greatest  length  from  the 
central  bridge,  and  flocks  and  herds  are  visible  on  the  plain, 
which  are  not  distinguishable  from  the  city.  The  great 
mountain  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  valley  or  plain,  is 
now  found  to  stand  on  its  own  foundations,  insulated  and  se- 
parated all  round  from  any  other ;  it  may  be  forty  miles  long, 
and  the  plain  of  Bogota  fifteen  to  twenty  broad,  and  the  plain 
is  of  the  same  apparent  level  along  both  its  sides  and  extre- 
mities ;  it  is  the  mountain  ridge  of  Zipaquira,  celebrated  for 
rocks  of  salt.  The  plain  which  extends  from  the  west  face 
of  this  ridge  of  Zipaquira  is  very  spacious;  and  I  have  seen 
in  no  part  of  Colombia  so  many  detached  and  ample  farms, 
such  farm-yards  with  grain  handsomely  stacked,  abundance 
of  cattle,  sheep,  mules,  and  horses.  On  a  spacious  field  on 
the  left  of  the  route,  being  the  gradual  slope  of  the  mountain 
that  is  crossed  to  reach  Facitativa,  I  saw  a  very  fine  flock,  of 
perhaps  sixty,  of  the  brown  species  of  llamas^  which  so  much 
resemble  the  camel ;  there  were  many  young  with  them,  and 
they  retired  from  us  as  we  approached,  with  the  first  gaze,  so 
remarkable  in  deer,  and  a  similar  flight,  turning  round  to 
gaze  and  fly  again.  * 

These  animals  have  been  denominated  capra  puda^ 
or  wild  goat.  I  cannot  help  feeling  a  repugnance  to  this 
forced  analogy  ;  they  have  nothing  that  resembles  the  goat  in 
its  main  characteristics  of  feet  and  horns.  These  brown  lla- 
mas do  not  materially  differ  in  stature  or  figure  from  the 
white  llamas,  of  which  we  saw  a  beautiful  pair  domesticated 
at  Sativa.  These  were  the  property  of  an  opulent  planter, 
whose  hacienda  was  pointed  out  to  us,  but  too  much  con- 
cealed to  show  more  than  a  glimpse  among  its  flourishing 
forests. 

In  the  west  and  north-west,  two  mountains  appear  of  re- 


572  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

markable  appearance ;  they  are  called  El  Mesa  and  "EA  Mesa 
Grande — the  Table  and  the  Greater  Table,  their  names  in- 
dicating the  long  transverse  level  line  of  their  summits  ;  such 
as  an  Egyptian  pyramid  would  appear  if  a  third  of  its  sum- 
mit was  cut  horizontally  off;  their  sides  not  so  much  in. 
clined  as  the  pyramid,  and  their  upper  line  loftier  than  the 
summits  of  the  rounded  mountains  all  round.  Looking  from 
the  same  point  to  the  south-west,  the  hoary  Quindiu  presents 
its  lofty  frustum  of  a  cone,  its  flat  level  summit,  and  its  cap 
of  eternal  snow,  showing  its  rotundity,  finely  contrasted  by 
the  darkness  of  its  steep  sides  below  the  limit  of  congelation, 
but  so  lofiy  and  so  sublime,  that  the  three  great  chains  of  the 
Andes  appear  diminished  into  huts  at  its  feet.  Quindiu  is 
in  the  central  chain,  and  both  the  kindred  ridges  are  to  be 
seen  in  the  prospect,  drawn  into  apparent  neighbourhood, 
though  immensely  separated.  It  was  five  o'clock  wlien  wc 
crossed  the  Nocaymac  and  reached  Facitativa. 

The  alcalde  provided  a  house,  but  we  could  not  hang  up 
our  hammocks.  In  almost  every  house  there  is  a  sort  of 
table  upon  which  the  lares  are  usually  placed,  under  a  veil, 
which  is  only  removed  when  prayer  is  to  be  performed. 
This  table,  a  rough  bench,  or  the  floor,  were  to  be  our 
sleeping  places,  so  we  prevailed  upon  the  Sefiora  whose 
house  we  occupied,  to  remove  the  holy  apparatus,  which  she 
did  with  a  good  grace,  and  informing  me,  to  my  surprise, 
that  my  daughter  had  slept  on  the  same  mesa  a  month  be- 
fore ;  but  this  surprise  was  removed  by  the  sergeant,  whose 
sympathy  of  volubility  and  organ  of  communicativeness 
made  him  a  great  gossip,  and  fiivourite  of  the  Seiioras  on 
every  route  he  travelled — we  had  good  chocolate  of  our 
own  provision,  and  our  cook,  George,  was  a  practical  hand, 
so  that  in  the  way  of  food  we  had  French  cookery,  and  no 
manteca  nor  garlic^  till  we  reached  Cartagena.  Provision 
being  to  be  had,  and  fine  fruit  the  whole  line  of  the  Magda- 
Icna ;  only  that  it  is  necessary  to  be  prepared  with  a  sufii- 


VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA.  57S 

cient  knowledge  of  the  language,  or  a  faithful  servant  who 
does,  (which  is  a  difficulty  !)  and  not  to  be  too  eager  to 
pay  high  prices,  which  will  only  induce  demands  still  high- 
er, nor  to  appear  diffident  or  devoid  of  confidence.  A  lair, 
firm,  and  civil  deportment,  is  the  most  comfortable  to  a  man 
in  every  situation  ;  but  without  firmness  nothing  is  to  be  done 
well  with  the  classes  concerned  in  the  affairs  of  travellers,  in 
South  America — alcaldes^  muleteers^  pulpureias,  posaderoSf 
and  bogas — there  are  large  exceptions  as  to  alcaldes,  and 
some  as  to  muleteers,  but  with  this  exception  they  are  as^ 
great  cheats  as  the  horse-jockeys  and  vermin  of  the  same 
kind  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  and  this  is  speaking  too^ 
well  of  them. 

On  the  28th  we  could  not  obtain  mules  at  four  o'clock, 
as  we  proposed  ;  at  eight  o'clock  we  set  off,  but  the  mule 
upon  which  my  fellow  traveller  rode  was  scarcely  able  to 
move  at  the  end  of  four  miles ;  the  only  expedient  was 
to  send  back  and  hire  another  mule,  and  divide  the  bag- 
gage of  one  mule  between  two ;  which  was  doubling  the 
expense,  as  there  being  no  remedy  against  exaction,  and  the 
mule  owner  being  paid  in  advance,  the  choice  of  difficulties 
lay  between  stopping  and  going  to  law  with  the  muleteer, 
before  the  alcalde,  who,  perhaps,  was  himself  the  owner  of  the 
hired  mules,  or  had  a  share  in  the  pillage  which  he  was  to 
decide  upon — or  hiring  an  additional  mule  ;  the  latter  was. 
by  five  hundred  per  cent,  the  cheapest,  and  it  was  done. 

The  rain  which,  though  not  very  heavy,  was  very  effec- 
tive on  the  black  mould  which  covered  the  route  we  had  to 
pass,  over  the  steep  and  winding  mountains  leading  through 
Bergara,  Numayna,  and  Maves,  to  Villeta.  The  rains  had 
been  more  heavy  in  the  region  above  us,  to  the  west,  and  as 
the  Rio  Dulce  was,  in  the  judgment  of  the  sergeant,  hkely 
to  be  too  much  swelled  to  be  passable,  and  no  accommoda- 
tions likely  to  be  had  on  the  right  side  of  that  river  where 
it  was  usually  forded,  we  took  the  route  to  the  south-west, 


574  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

leading  towards  the  ridge  separating  this  valley  from  the 
Magdalena  :  this  route  was  a  slough,  amidst  exuberant,  wild 
vegetation ;  but  the  appearance  of  a  good  covered  wooden 
bridge  over  the  Dulce^  which  sheltered  us  for  a  time  from 
the  rain,  and  prepared  us  for  a  most  fatiguing  grope  of  three 
miles,  within  sight  of  the  river,  till  within  half  a  mile  of  Vil- 
leta,  which  we  entered  at  six  o'clock.  No  alcalde  was  to 
be  found ;  and,  as  usual,  like  many  people  in  the  last  extre- 
mity, we  had  recourse  to  the  church — but  Fra.  Jose  Torru 
bio  Garcftty  who  presented  himself  in  the  externals  of  the 
order  of  St.  Dominic,  had  not  the  same  feelings  as  the 
worthy  Franciscan,  of  the  name  of  Garcia,  whom  we  had 
known  at  Pipa  and  Tunja.  But  here  was  a  master- spirit^ 
in  a  purple  jerkin,  with  gold  filagre  and  chain  buttons,  whose 
tonsure  was  concealed  by  a  purple  velvet  cap,  concerning 
whom  I  was  almost  induced  to  exclaim,  with  Scrub,  *'  he 
looks  like  a  Jesuit." — Garcia  in  pontificals  was  certainly 
not  more  than  twenty-three,  and  his  complacency  of  expres- 
sion, when  I  addressed  him,  was  pleasing,  but  the  gentle, 
man,  in  the  purple-coloured  wig,  passed  like  a  cloud  over 
his  face,  and  the  youth  bowed  deferentially  to  his  purple 
cap — foreclosing  our  solicitation  ;  though  it  was  raining 
drops  as  round  as  grapes.  *' Any  port  in  a  storm" — we 
saw  an  open  shed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square,  and 
without  thanking  Fra.  Jose  Torribio  Garcia,  or  his  purple 
prolocutor,  we  took  cover ;  and  the  neighbours,  more  hos- 
pitable than  the  priest,  opened  for  us  a  sufficiently  spacious 
house,  where  we  hung  up  our  hammocks,  and  went  through 
the  usual  process  of  banishing  discomfort :  but  though,  in 
the  way  of  cookery,  our  complaints  were  averted  by  the 
economic  pride  of  our  cook  of  St.  Bartholomew's,  we  had 
something  else  to  annoy  us,  besides  insects,  of  which  we 
had  heard  Villeta  was  proverbially  noisome  ;  but,  excepting 
the  unchristian  priests,  we  found  nothing  animated  in  Vil- 
leta that  was  troublesome,  but  a  sort  of  prodigy,  an  ill-na- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  575^ 

tured  Frenchman.  This  person  inhabited  the  posada  in 
Bogota,  where  I  staid,  for  about  a  fortnight ;  but  his  man- 
ners prevented  any  conversation  beyond  monosyllables, 
while  ive  ate  our  eggs  or  sipped  our  chocolate  at  the  posa- 
da. He  made  repeated  overtures  to  accompany  us  on  the 
route  to  Honda  and  Cartagena,  which  we  declined  uniform- 
ly, on  the  plea  of  business  on  the  route ;  and,  when  we  left 
the  posada^  had  instructed  the  posadero  to  conceal  our  de- 
parture, as  we  did  not  wish  to  be  annoyed  by  this  eternal 
babbler,  and  his  companion  of  the  same  cast  of  phiz,  but 
less  flippant  tongue.  I  had  unavoidably  overheard  a  con- 
versation between  him  and  his  comrade,  of  a  piratical  cast, 
and  avoided  him.  But  here  he  had  overtaken  us — for, 
when  he  found  we  had  set  out  a  day  before,  he  nevertheless 
determined  to  keep  us  company  :  fortunately,  though  the 
people  would  have  given  us  the  house  if  it  were  a  palace, 
their  good  will  in  providing  a  chamber  large  enough  for  us, 
but  not  for  more  than  us,  obliged  this  unpleasant  traveller 
to  seek  another  place,  which  the  civility  of  the  people  provi- 
ded, but  with  whom  he  quarrelled  before  nine  at  night,  and 
was  in  consequence  taken  care  of  by  the  alcalde.  We  heard 
the  noise,  and  the  alcaide  applied  to  us  upon  some  represen- 
tation of  this  ruffian -looking  fellow,  that  we  were  his  particu- 
lar friends — but  our  merely  declaring  our  total  unacquaint- 
ance  answered  the  purpose  we  wished,  without  the  least  idea 
of  doing  more  than  save  ourselves  from  the  imputation  of 
such  an  acquaintance ;  and  the  alcalde  requested  me  to  deli- 
ver a  letter  to  Colonel  Acosta,  at  Guaduas,  for  advice  how 
to  act,  as  I  afterwards  understood  to  be  the  object  of  the 
letter. 

We  had  determined  to  be  off  early,  and  a  thick  mist  fa- 
voured our  movements ;  we  were  ascending  the  steep  sides 
of  El  Sargente  by  half  past  five  o'clock,  and  on  the  very 
summit  I  experienced  the  only  actual  involuntary  fall  of  the 
whole  journey ;  it  was  in  a  deep  mire,  in  which  my  excellent 


576  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

mule  sunk  to  the  shouldci* ;  and  in  truth  my  first  apprehen- 
sion was  for  the  poor  faithful  animal,  which  had  carried  me 
so  many  hundred  miles  not  only  with  security  and  ease,  but 
without  a  moment's  dissatisfaction.  We  succeeded  in  ex- 
tricating the  mule  without  injury,  and  descended  through 
indescribable  ravines. 

Some  idea  of  the  steepness  of  this  descent  may  be  con- 
ceived from  a  comparison  of  the  facts.  Under  the  viceroy- 
alty,  a  measurement  had  been  made  of  a  great  part  of  the 
route  from  Honda  to  Bogota :  the  height  of  Bogota  above 
the  sea,  was  1365  toises,  equal  to  8190  feet  of  Castile ;  the 
descent  to  Villeta,  only  two  days'  journey  by  the  road,  not 
more  than  sixty  miles  ;  that  village  was  only  556  toises,  equal 
to  3936  feet,  or  a  descent  of  4154  feet  in  sixty  miles.  We 
reached  Guadas  at  half  past  four,  and  addressed  ourselves, 
as  all  travellers  do  who  pass  through  that  town,  to  the  vene- 
rated Colonel  AcostUy  who  is  at  once  the  military  comman- 
dant, the  civil  magistrate,  the  owner  of  the  land  on  which  the 
town  stands,  and  that  adjacent,  and  who  is,  by  all  within  his 
jurisdiction,  considered  as  a  father,  benefactor,  protector,  and 
friend.  Wc  had  the  acquaintance  of  his  family,  who  were 
•our  neighbours  and  intimates  in  the  Plaza  St.  Francisco  at 
Bogota,  and  his  brothers  and  sister  had  written  to  him. 
Though  it  was  not  less  agreeable,  our  treatment  would  have 
been  good,  as  all  strangers  of  good  deportment  find  in  him 
an  active  and  a  generous  friend.  We  had  an  apartment  as- 
signed to  us,  water,  napkins,  and  soap,  to  wash,  and  fine 
orgeat,  oranges,  melons,  bananas,  and  guavas  laid  before  us 
for  a  refresco  ;  and  while  we  were  engaged  in  the  chat  of  the 
day,  dinner  was  announced,  though  our  refresco  was  to  me 
the  best  of  desirable  dinners.  We,  however,  did  honour  to 
our  host,  and  to  his  good  wine,  and  the  more  we  knew  the 
more  we  esteemed  the  man.  Taking  it  that  he  is  himself 
oontent  to  be  retired  from  the  bustle  and  the  books,  the  am- 
bition and  the  vanity,  which  makes  so  much  of  the  world's 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  677 

business,  »o  man  can  be  more  happy  in  the  capacity  to  live, 
and  the  gratification  of  dispensing  blessings  to  the  neighbour- 
hood over  which  he  presides ;  he  is  as  a  providence  to  the 
stranger,  whose  entertainment  in  Guaduas  is  as  free  of  charge 
as  the  sun's  benignant  beams. 

I  could  not  but  admire  the  tranquil  satisfaction  and  the 
absence  of  every  line  of  care  from  this  good  man's  visage. 
There  were  several  animals  rambling  about  his  halls  and  his 
patio,  usually  wild,  but  here  sporting  in  heedless  confidence. 
At  dinner  a  pair  of  birds,  of  the  size  of  a  pheasant,  fluttered 
round  the  room,  and  one  perched  on  his  chair,  and  ate  rice 
from  his  hand :  I  took  a  sketch  of  the  bird  as  it  sat  on  his 
shoulder :  its  name  was  acratscha;  the  body  pheasant-shaped, 
but  with  longer  limbs  and  neck,  colour  chocolate  throughout, 
beak  parrot- shaped,  but  less  curved  ;  a  sparkling  eye,  with  a 
brilliant  golden  circle  around  the  iris,  and  a  red  fleshy  mem- 
brane under  the  throat,  pendant,  of  a  substance  like  a  cock's 
gills  ;  crest  round  and  tufted.  Its  walk  was  stately,  as  that  of 
a  game  cock,  the  breast  full  and  the  neck  long  but  tapering, 
smallest  behind  the  crest  and  gills,  and  gradually  swelling  to 
the  shoulder  or  the  pinion.  We  had  fine  coffee  and  cho- 
colate served  round  in  the  evening,  and  numerous  visitors, 
with  whom  the  time  did  not  admit  of  much  conversation, 
or  more  than  passing  acquaintance.  We  remained  till  nine 
o'clock  on  the  30th,  Wednesday,  before  we  could  separate 
from  our  hospitable  friend.  We  had  concluded  at  Villeta 
that  nothing  could  be  so  bad  for  the  traveller,  as  the  road 
descending  to  and  approaching  that  place  :  the  road  thence  to 
Gfwac/Mfl5  proved  we  were  mistaken;  it  was  tremendous — down 
— down — down  !  rocks,  ravines,  precipices,  steeps,  swamps, 
thus  again  and  again ;  free-stone  ascents,  which  appeared  to 
imbibe  the  moisture  of  a  warm  atmosphere,  and  crumble  at 
the  touch ;  hills  under- worn  at  the  foot,  tilted  into  the  ravine, 
and  steep  gulleys  washed  by  the  mountain  floods,  leaving 
the  large  rocks  naked  and  tottering,  over  which,  and  over 

73 


578  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

which  only,  lay  the  track  for  man  and  beast.  There  was  the 
trial  for  breast-bands,  girths,  and  cruppers,  and  there  it  was 
that  the  neck  called  for  discretion,  and  the  mule  for  commise- 
ration ;  yet  the  loaded  mule  got  over  it  better  than  the  man ; 
unless,  indeed,  those  fl}  ing  mercuries,  the  corrcos^  who,  with 
a  light  pole  of  ten  feet  in  hand,  a  bandage  of  muslin  round 
their  loins,  and  a  straw  hat,  with  a  belt  over  the  right  shoul- 
der,  and  a  sort  of  sabretache  on  the  left,  spring  from  rock  to 
rock  like  kangaroos. 

It  was  cloudy,  but  there  was  no  rain  when  we  left  Gua- 
duas  ;  crossed  over  a  broken  level,  through  which  some  rivu- 
lets wound  their  ^vay,  and  on  the  uncultured  plains  found 
groves  of  the  finest  guavas,  equal  to  the  best  of  Bengal ;  both 
red  and  white,  and  in  perfect  ripeness,  of  which  being  no 
one's  property  we  laid  in  some  store,  which  were  not  ex- 
hausted for  some  days  after  our  arrival  at  Honda. 

This  day's  journey,  bad  as  the  preceding  had  been,  was 
still  worse.  We  re-ascended  some  miles  of  the  upland,  where, 
after  passing  the  mountain  range  of  free-stone,  a  more  com- 
pact grey  granite,  resembling,  but  darker,  than  blue  lime- 
stone, made  a  pleasant  footway  over  the  brink  of  frightful 
precipices.  We  were  so  much  fatigued  on  this  day's  jour- 
ney as  to  rest  four  several  times  before  we  reached  the  Bodega 
on  the  margin  of  the  Magdalena,  which  we  gained  about 
half  a  mile  higher,  but  in  sight  of  Honda,  which  is  on  the 
left  side,  and  below  its  confluence  with  the  river  Guali. 

Along  the  margin  of  the  mountains,  for  the  greatest  part  of 
the  way,  the  Magdalena  was  visible  like  a  small  yellow  rib- 
bon, or  string  of  vermicelli,  winding  its  way  between  the 
verdant  slopes ;  on  either  side,  vast  plains  and  variegated 
rolling  hills,  verdant  and  varied  by  picturesque  and  detached 
groups  of  forest.  The  height  forbid  every  idea  of  discerning 
any  thing  living  below ;  it  was  the  awful  stillness  ^nd  solitude 
of  a  world  recently  born,  and  come  to  maturity,  without 
beings  to  inhabit  ity  but  prepared  and  amply  sufficient  to  re- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  579 

ceive  millions,  and  repay  the  lightest  labour  with  hundred 
fold  crops  of  the  richest  products  of  nature.  As  we  approach- 
ed Honda,  the  descent  from  Villeta  to  that  place  is  426 
toises,  equal  to  2556  feet  of  Castile:  here  the  Magdalenaap- 
peared  in  its  grandeur.  The  rains  in  the  Upper  Andes,  near 
the  sources  of  the  Magdalena  and  the  CaucaT  commence  early 
in  April,  and  the  river  rises  to  a  great  height  after  the  floods 
have  accumulated  and  poured  into  the  valleys  j  the  river  was 
now  coloured  with  the  yellow  soil  through  which  it  had  pass- 
ed, and  its  surface  was  covered  with  vast  accumulating  rafts 
of  drifting  timber,  which  encountered  and  united,  and  swept 
before  them  headlands  and  rocks  in  their  course,  and  often 
changed  the  direction  of  its  own  current,  by  the  ruin  which 
it  had  brought  down. 

We  reached  the  Bodega  at  half  past  five ;  there  was  no 
internal  accommodation  at  the  ferry  house  ;  there  were  neither 
fruit  nor  drinkables ;  we  had  the  last  of  our  Bogota  bread 
still  in  good  condition.  We  procured  milk,  however,  and 
some  palm  cocoa-nuts,  of  which  1  had  been  many  years  accus- 
tomed to  make  a  beverage ;  and  finding  a  sort  of  caravan- 
serai, or  spacious  thatched  shed  of  about  thirty  yards  long  by 
twelve  wide,  provided  for  storing  goods  brought  hither,  we 
took  possession  of  an  angle  of  this  place,  and  dismissing  our 
hired  mules,  we  went  to  rest  in  our  hammocks  with  all  the 
dehcious  pleasure  for  which  previous  privations  and  fatigue 
prepare  the  traveller. 

I  do  not  know  how  other  people  feel  on  such  occasions, 
but  there  were  some  feelings  associated  with  the  parting  from 
those  poor  abused,  but  inappreciable  animals,  the  mules,  that 
had  conveyed  us  so  faithfully  more  than  1500  miles — be- 
sides ministering  to  our  accommodation  during  our  residence 
at  Bogota,  that  I  am  not  ashamed  to  say  I  felt  pain  at  parting 
with  the  poor  animals,  apprehensive  that,  severe  as  their  tra- 
vail was  with  us,  they  might  find  less  considerate  owners. 

April  31st,  crossed  the  Magdalena  with   our  baggage, 


680  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

under  charge  of  the  sergeant  and  our  cook  George,  who  was 
here  joined  by  an  additional  baggage^  whom  he  represented 
as  his  wife,  a  native  of  Mompox,  whiiher  she  was  proceed- 
ing. The  expense  of  this  part  of  the  baggage  was  nothing, 
but  in  the  kind  of  transport  which  alone  can  be  had  on  the 
Magdalena,  an  additional  person  in  the  space  to  be  occupied 
on  the  passage  is  a  serious  aftair.  However  we  were  to  part 
witii  our  invaluable  and  indefatigable  sergeant  at  Honda, 
and  the  loss  of  a  servant  like  George  then  could  not  be  sup- 
plied. Vincent  had  accompanied  my  family  to  Carthagena, 
and  1  had  to  compound  the  good  which  was  to  be  rendered 
by  George,  for  the  inconvenience  of  his  wife :  and  so  we 
made  up  the  account. 

We  had  son\e  letters  from  Bogota  to  gentlemen  at  Honda, 
which  were  not  indeed  necessary,  as  the  alcalde,  who  knew 
something  of  us,  provided  us  a  house,  the  whole  of  the  first 
floor  was  at  our  disposal ;  it  was,  in  its  days  of  prosperity,  a 
sumptuous  abode,  and  had  stood  unmoved  during  the  earth- 
quake, which  here,  as  in  Caracas,  destroyed  no  stone  build- 
ing, but  those  only  that  were  wholly  or  partly  composed 
oi pita,  or  adhesive  earth.  The  lower  floor  was  ocupied  by 
some  remnants  of  opulent  families ;  and  one  side  of  the  patio 
was  fallen  in  from  the  decay  of  the  timbers  exposed  to  the 
weather.  A  spacious  saloon  was  entered  from  the  usual 
broad  stairs  of  two  flights  ;  and  the  whole  front  of  the  house 
had  an  ample  gallery,  which  overlooked  those  on  the  oppo- 
site  side  of  the  street,  and  the  noble  current  of  the  Magdalena 
that  washed  their  outermost  walls.  The  river  had  but  par- 
tially risen  the  day  of  our  arrival  at  the  Bodega  ;  tliat  night  it 
perceptibly  rose  above  six  feet  in  its  spacious  stream  more 
than  a  mile  wide  on  the  rapid  in  front  of  our  residence. 

Below  the  city  and  in  sight  another  narrow  rapid  descends 
over  a  mass  of  large  round  stones  ;  and  above  the  town,  the 
river  Guaii,  (pronounced  Walli)  a  handsome  stream  of  half 
a  mile  broad,  descends  at  right  angles  into  the  Magdalena 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  581 

It  is  in  the  cove,  formed  at  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers, 
that  the  landing  from  the  Bodega  takes  place — and,  from  tlie 
quaHty  of  the  ferry  boat,  a  precarious  passage. 

There  were  two  chambers  at  the  extreme  of  the  great  sa- 
loon, which  we  occupied,  and  a  spare  room  on  the  lobby 
received  our  baggage  living  and  inanimate. 

Wc  rested  on  the  first  of  May,  and  on  the  second  I  present- 
ed my  passport  in  ordinary  to  the  assessor  or  deputy  of  the 
governor,  or  Juez  politico,  this  being  a  civil  administration, 
though  I  found  it  rather  uncivil ;  for,  notwithstanding  my 
daily  applications,  through  the  sergeant,  and,  after  his  depar- 
ture, through  my  servant,  I  could  obtain  neither  a  boat,  an 
answer,  nor  my  passport,  which  I  imprudently  left  in  his 
hands ;  I  at  length  sent  my  passport  from  the  minister  of  the 
interior,  demanding  a  compliance  with  its  orders ;  my  ordi- 
nary passport  was  returned,  and  that  of  the  government  kept, 
promising,  as  had  been  promised  every  day  preceding,  that 
it  would  be  attended  to  a  la  mahana : — in  the  books,  manana 
means  to-morrow,  or  the  next  day ;  but  in  the  vernacular 
tongue  of  some  persons  in  office,  it  may  be  to-morrow  week, 
or  to-morrow  month,  or  twelvemonth — or  never,  just  as  it 
is  the  whim  ;  or,  as  in  this  case,  it  was  the  wantonness  of  the 
public  agent ;  and  among  those  evils  entailed  by  the  pre- 
existing institutions,  the  usages  of  which  remain,  at  once 
from  the  unsetded  state  consequent  on  the  revolution,  and 
the  utter  impracticability  of  at  once  reducing  all  the  branches 
of  government  to  a  consistent  and  regular  efficiency. 

All  the  institutions  under  the  Spanish  monarchy  in  Europe 
and  in  America  were  venal ;  every  thing  was  purchaseable, 
and  right  itself  could  not  be  obtained  without  paying  for  it. 
In  the  lower  and  remote  branches  of  the  administration,  it 
continues  in  a  very  great  measure  so  still.  The  government 
has  laboured  to  reform  and  regenerate  every  thing  in  accor- 
dance with  its  liberal  principles ;  the  main  obstacles  to  suc- 
cess were,  first,  the  interests  of  individuals  in  every  district 


QS2  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

were  to  be  reconciled,  by  appointments  to  public  trusts  ;  then 
the  resources  ol  the  government  were  so  limited,  that  com- 
pensation could  rarely  be  paid ;  and  it  was  connived  at  to 
compensate  service  by  fees  or  perquisites  ;  which,  whenever 
they  are  permitted  to  take  the  place  of  a  regular  salary,  will 
always  become  a  pretext  for  exaction,  or,  more  properly, 
robbery — the  worst  species  of  robbery,  committed  under  the 
show  of  institution.  Habits,  long  educated  habits,  divest 
fraud  of  some  portion  of  its  immorality,  inasmuch  as  its  per- 
mission or  sufferance,  or  sanction  by  authority,  divests  it  of 
the  first  principle  of  criminality,  that  is,  intention. 

At  points  such  as  the  entrepot  for  the  w  hole  interior  be- 
tween Quito  and  Bogota  and  Honda,  the  demand  for  trans- 
port is  unceasing ;  the  necessities  oi  the  case  call  upon  the 
government  to  provide  by  the  same  means  that  transport  by 
mules  which  is  provided  every  where  else.  Champans  and 
bogas  are  the  sole  means  of  navigation  on  the  Magdalena, 
and  there  is  a  rate  not  always  arbitrary  but  by  custom,  which, 
like  the  tonnage  of  ships  in  naval  ports,  fluctuates  with  de- 
mand. The  government  has  always  the  preference,  but  it  is 
often  a  distributive  preference.  If  public  danger  requires  all 
the  transport,  it  must  go.  If  only  a  partial  space  be  required, 
the  owner  of  the  champan  or  hoga  takes  in  his  cargo  at  the 
price  he  chooses  to  fix,  and  for  whole  cargoes;  and  they  are 
not  deficient  on  the  Magdalena  of  that  art  by  which  prices 
are  enhanced  through  reports  of  dangers  and  hazards,  which, 
though  the  exaction  of  price  can  neither  aggravate  nor  alle- 
viate, still  operates  without  the  forms  of  a  charter,  to  produce 
all  the  benefits  of  a  policy  of  insurance  without  a  premium. 

The  owner  of  a  cliampan  has  an  interest  in  standing  well, 
or  having  a  perfect  understanding,  or  a  joint  interest  with  a 
Juez  politico^  or  the  alcalde.  If  a  government  order  comes 
for  transport,  and  the  officer  obeys  the  order,  he  will  not  pay 
more  than  the  government  rate,  and  the  owner  cannot  benefit 
by  exacting  from  the  necessities  of  the  traveller  a  heavier 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  583 

sum.  If  the  officer  grants  what  the  government  bids  him 
absolutely  grant,  he  gets  nothing  more  ;  butif  he  disregards  or 
evades  the  order,  and  postpones  from  day  to  day  the  promise, 
he  makes  every  day  the  exigencies  and  the  impatience  of  the 
traveller,  shut  up  in  such  a  comfortless  place  as  Honda,  and 
eager  to  prosecute  his  journey,  motives  for  submitting  to  the 
exactions,  and  thus  pays  tribute  to  the  public  officer  for  his 
perfidy,  and  enables  him  to  share  with  the  owner  of  the  cham- 
pan  in  one  half  of  his  exaction. 

The  champan,  derives  its  name  from  a  very  large  tree 
of  South  America,  named  Champacada,  They  are  built 
in  all  the  great  inland  rivers  in  much  the  same  rude  manner ; 
of  massive  timbers,  principally  of  this  species  of  cedar,  the 
grain  of  which  resembles  the  teak  of  India,  is  equally  sus- 
ceptible of  being  worked  by  a  sharp  tool,  as  the  teak  or  the 
mahogany  ;  and,  like  them,  resists  the  decomposition  or  rot 
by  water,  and  the  attack  of  the  worm,  so  as  to  endure  time 
out  of  human  recollection,  when  not  destroyed  by  violence 
of  any  kind.  They  are  built  from  50  to  150  feet  in  length, 
and  from  four  to  twenty-six  feet  broad,  both  ends  sharply 
curving  to  a  timber  head.  The  main  timber  of  the  bottom, 
which  is  always  flat,  is  proportionably  thick,  and  is  usually  one 
tree,  from  stem  to  stern  ;  when  the  champan  is  not  very  large, 
the  whole  often  consists  of  only  three  trees,  or  the  sides  form- 
ed of  one  tree,  attached  by  futtocks  athwart  what  may  be  con- 
sidered as  the  bows  and  beam  timbers,  according  to  size, 
but  the  whole  vessel  is  so  solid  and  so  buoyant,  that  it  floats 
without  any  warping,  like  one  solid  mass  of  timber  ;  indeed 
the  sides  are  seldom  less  than  eight  inches  thick,  and  the 
champan  usually  floats  with  four  or  five  feet  above  water  un- 
laden, and  seldom  draws  more  than  three  or  four  feet  with  the 
heaviest  loads. 

The  lesser  vessels,  which  are  on\y  log  caiioes  of  a  larger  size, 
scooped  out  and  fashioned  by  rude  labour,  are  composed  of 
a  single  tree,  from  fifty  to  sixty  or  eighty  feet  in  length. 


584  VISIT  TO    COLOMBIA. 

The  cargoes  of  merchandize  are  stowed  in  the  centre  oi 
all  the  boats ;  lined  with  mats,  and  covered  ;  if  there  be 
separate  cargoes,  coarser  mats  or  partitions  separate  them  ; 
or  if  the  commodities  are  cacao,  coft'ee,  cotton,  tobacco, 
maize,  hides,  &c.  they  are  separated.  The  habitable  places  for 
passengers  are  either  behind  or  before  the  cargoes,  or  in  ship 
phrase  "  fore  and  aft."  The  bow  and  stern  are  open,  and 
the  rest  of  the  champan  or  boga  is  covered  with  a  roof  form- 
ed by  stout  saplins  or  wattles  affixed  within,  on  each  side  gun- 
wall  and  brought  over  so  as  to  form  an  arch  ;  these  saplins 
are  necessarily  stout,  because  it  is  upon  their  upper  surface 
the  dogas,  or  water  men,  stand  when  poling  the  vessel 
against  the  stream  ;  when  descending  it  is  their  place  of  rest 
and  repose,  without  hand-rail  or  rope  to  guard  them  from  fal- 
ling over.  The  boga^  canoe,  or  piragua,  all  mean  the  same 
thing,  and  boga  signifies  the  boat  as  well  as  the  boatman. 

Champans  are  manned  according  to  their  size  ;  and  some 
will  carry  down  a  hundred  and  fifty  loads  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds  each,  for  which  the  freight  to  Mompox  on- 
ly is  usually  four  dollars  down,  but  has  been  enhanced  to 
eight  dollars ;  the  same  weight  up  from  eight  to  eleven,  and 
from  thence  to  fourteen  dollars,  was  demanded  when  we 
were  at  Mompox  ;  owing  to  a  report,  which  was  impossible 
in  itself,  that  Morales  was  at  that  time  at  the  cienega  of  Santa 
Marta,  on  his  way  up  the  Magdalena.  The  owners  of  cham- 
pans knew  very  well  that  tiiis  report  was  false,  and  probably 
made  it  for  the  purpose — it  encreased  their  freight  twenty- 
five  percent. 

There  is  an  artifice  often  played  off  on  strangers ;  after 
agreeing  for  the  boat  with  the  owner,  and  paying  in  advance, 
a  new  agreement  is  required  for  the  bogas  or  watermen — 
at  so  much  per  day — and  then  another  is  required  for  their 
subsistence,  and  as  the  passage  up  the  Magdalena,  from  Ba- 
ranquilla,  or  from  the  Cienega  of  St.  Marta,  takes  not  less 
than  two  months ;  and  from  the  knavery  of  the  patrons  and 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  585 

the  desertion,  frauds,  and  vices  of  the  bogas^  through  the 
want  of  police  on  the  rivers,  Honda  is  often  not  gained  be- 
fore ten  or  twelve  weeks.  The  expense,  the  irksomeness  of 
life,  the  wretchedness  of  those  who  cannot  subsist  on  coarse 
viands,  and  many  of  the  vexations  that  arise  among  a  people 
so  hardy,  rude,  and  uncontrollable,  should  be  prepared  against 
with  a  resignation  to  suffer  what  is  not  avoidable,  but  with  a 
firmness  and  equanimity  always  to  resist  what  is  improper  or 
insolent  in  the  Patron  ov\\\^bogas;  and  never  to  be  without 
the  evidence  of  preparedness,  in  the  hand  or  belt,  to  repel  or 
to  punish  any  threatened  outrage  or  wrong.  The  visible 
preparedness  is  always  a  salutary  rule — he  who  travels 
with  a  good  sword,  and  a  pair  of  double  barrelled  pistols, 
which  he  takes  care  to  discharge  and  reload  occasionally, 
may  pass  up  the  Magdalena  without  having  any  evidence  to 
suspect  that  the  bogas  are  not  as  amiable  as  the  Hindoo  dan- 
dies ;  whom  in  fact,  in  their  amphibiousness,  their  gaiety, 
and  proneness  to  singing  and  rowing  by  a  cadence,  they  very 
much  resemble. 

Floating  in  a  boga  of  sixty  feet  down  the  Magdakna,  the 
Patron  and  his  crew  singing  and  responding,  and  the  whited 
tints  of  the  foliage  in  clustered  groups,  with  the  gleam  of  the 
moonbeam  playing  on  the  water,  gave  me  for  a  few  moments 
a  kind  of  persuasion  that  carried  me  back  thirty  years,  and 
placed  me  in  a  budjeroWy  floating  down  the  not  more 
beautiful  or  splendid  Ganges.  The  passage  down  from 
Honda  to  the  debouch  of  the  Magdalena,  in  large  cham- 
pans,  is  twenty  days ;  it  might  be  accomplished  in  one 
half  the  time.  It  is  an  error  of  M.  Mollien,  and  others,  that 
the  bogas  of  the  Magdalena  are  of  African  race  ;  there  are  no 
doubt  some  few  of  them.  The  people  who  occupy  the  sides 
of  great  rivers  and  sea  coasts,  in  every  country,  are  of  darker 
complexion  than  those  further  inland.  This  is  true  to  my 
personal  knowledge  of  the  Colombian  coast  and  rivers,  but 
it  is  also  true  of  the  coast  of  Malabar,  Coromandel,  and  the 

74 


fl86  VISIT   T<i    COI.OMUIA. 

whole  coast  from  thence  by  the  outlets  of  the  Ganges,  to 
Chittigong,  Aracan,  Assam,  Pegu,  and  Malacca  ;  on  all 
these  coasts,  the  complexion  of  the  inhabitants,  near  the  sea 
coast,  is  much  darker  than  the  same  race  of  people  thirty 
miles  inland,  and  much  more  fair  as  they  depart  from  the 
lines  of  rivers  and  the  sea.  Ihus  it  is  that  the  Lascars  who 
pass  from  India,  by  their  colour  lead  to  the  notion  that  the 
Asiatics  of  India,  the  Burman  empire,  and  the  Malays,  are  all 
black.  The  boatmen  or  bogas  of  the  Mdgdalena  are  darker 
in  colour  than  thost  who  live  twenty  n)iles  from  the  Magda- 
Icna.  They  are,  for  the  most  part,  an  unmixed  native  race  ; 
but  there  are  some  few  mixtures  among  them.  I  met  and  con- 
versed w  ith  some  ;  and  the  patron  of  the  boat  which  carried 
us  from  Mompox  to  Barancas,  who  was  himself  what  in  die 
United  States  is  called  a  half  breed,  or  descendant  from  an 
Indian  and  Spanish  stock,  said  there  were  few  of  the  woolly- 
headed  race  on  the  river,  but  he  pointed  to  one  who  was 
in  the  boga,  and  whose  history  I  had  from  himself  in  the 
course  of  the  night — which  I  shall  subsequently  notice. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Rapids  of  Magdalena — General  Cordova — the  passport — the  embarcadero,  Stc. — 
Rio  Perico — Guarico — Rio  Negro — point  for  a  road  to  Bogota — Buenavista— 
Rio  Claro — Lagiina  de  Palaguas — El  Tigre — Nare — Garrupata — Multasputas 
— San  Pablo — Badillas — splendidly  rich  and  wide-spread  countrj- — traditions  of 
river  revolutions — union  of  the  Cauca — Ocafia — Morales — high  flood — Re- 
gidor — Temalameque  another  Balbec — Rio  C?esar — Penon  and  Banco — 
Mompox — a  very  important  commercial  position — hospitality — prosperity — 
industry — Seiior  Villele — Seiior  Guerra — recent  European  publications — 
leave  Mompox  in  a  boga — gold  trade — reserve  on  the  extent  of  it. 

The  rapids  of  the  Magdalena  are  spoken  of  by  travellers, 
and,  in  some  itineraries  which  I  had  procured,  I  found  seven 
rapids  set  down,  some  of  which  are  stated  to  be  dangerous  ; 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  587 

I  saw  no  rapid  but  two,  one  at  Honda,  which  no  boat  can 
pass  up  or  down  in  its  present  state  ;  a  rapid  two  miles  below, 
and  a  rapid  in  which  I  saw  no  danger  where  the  bogas  were 
experienced. 

After  ten  days'  detention  at  Honda,  by  the  neglect  or 
wantonness  of  the  officer  whose  duty  it  w^as  to  accelerate 
my  departure  according  to  the  orders  of  his  superiors,  I 
found  General  Cordova,  with  whom  I  had  been  intimate  at 
Bogota,  had  arrived  at  Honda,  and  waited  on  him ;  he  intro- 
duced me  to  the  governor  at  once,  who  had  been  constantly 
represented  absent  by  the  assessor ;  he  promised  me  he 
would  serve  me  a  la  manana — and  he  did  so  a  la  mahana^ 
that  is,  never,  I  determined  to  demand  my  passport,  which 
I  could  not  obtain  till  the  next  day  ;  meanwhile  I  had  been 
applied  to  by  an  intermediary  of  the  assessor,  and  owner 
of  one  of  the  boats,  and  we  bargained  for  forty  dollars  to 
Mompox — my  passport  not  appearing,  I  presented  myself 
at  the  governor's  house,  hung  up  my  hat,  took  a  seat, 
and  signified  my  iiucniion  to  wait  there  until  it  was  re- 
turned ;  I  had  carried  my  writing  utensils  and  some  paper, 
and  began  to  write  in  the  saloon  a  letter  to  the  minister  of  the 
interior — I  had  been  thus  occupied,  when  a  little  squinting 
civihan  about  five  feet  two  approached,  with  a  thousand  pa- 
labrasy  and  presented  my  passport  deluged  in  claret.  As 
my  own  Sjjanish  was  not  so  idiomatical  as  that  of  my  ser- 
vant, who  had  lived  ten  years  in  the  country,  and  whom  I  kept 
w  ith  me  to  avoid  misrepresentation,  1  made  use  of  him  to  ex- 
press as  strong  as  possible  the  sense  I  felt  of  his  unbecoming 
conduct  to  me,  and  his  disregard  of  the  orders  of  his  govern- 
ment. With  perfect  comj^osure  he  bent  one  of  his  eyes  on 
me,  while  the  other  kept  George  in  view,  and  informed  me 
that — George  spoke  bad  Spanish — I  vvas  glad  to  find  it ;  and 
mustered  enough  of  my  best  Spanish  to  tell  him  that  the  words 
George  spoke  were  mine,  and  faithfully  translated  ;  and  that 
I    should  report   his  conduct  to  his  superiors  at  Bogota^ 


588  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

Whereupon  I  took  French  leave  ;  an  officer  followed  me  re- 
questing me  to  return,  and  that  it  would  be  obliging — I  be- 
lieve that  I  left  an  impression  as  unfavourable  as  to  my  ob- 
stinacy, as  I  had  given  a  previous  example  of  ten  days'  pa- 
tience. General  Cordova  called  on  me,  offering  passage  in 
his  boat  as  far  as  Nare,  where  he  proposed  to  land,  and  that  I 
might  take  it  the  rest  of  the  way  to  Mompox  ;  but  hearing 
thiit  I  had  engaged  a  part  of  a  boat,  he  sent  me  his  compli- 
ments, wishing  me  a  pleasant  voyage,  and  sailed  at  five 
o'clock  in  the  morning. 

We  moved  at  half-past  eleven,  on  the  10th  of  May,  ha- 
ving our  baggage  transported  on  mules  to  the  embarcadero, 
about  a  mile  and  half  below  the  town,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
second  rapid.  The  itineraries  which  I  possess  disagree  in 
relation  to  distances  in  the  navigation,  and  it  must  be  obvious 
that  where  the  flow  of  the  stream  is  unequal,  as  it  must  be 
ivhcre  the  channel  is  spacious  or  contracted,  the  time  of  pass- 
ing is  not  a  proper  medium  for  determining  distance.  The 
itineraries  will  be  given  in  the  appendix,  with  the  measures  as 
estimated  by  the  w  riters,  but  for  the  accuracy  of  which  I  do 
pretend  to  decide,  any  more  than  for  the  measures  of  land. 
The  only  scientific  measurement,  that  I  saw  in  Colombia, 
was  that  of  the  pillars  erected  at  every  half  league  from  Bo- 
gota t:)  Facitativa,  and  these  were  measured  geometrically,  and 
combined  with  the  measurement  of  elevation  above  the  sea. 

We  embarked,  on  a  champan  of  middle  size,  perhaps 
eighty  feet  long,  and  about  six  broad  ;  the  cargo  occupied  the 
centre  space  so  as  to  allow  about  six  feet  for  shade,  and  sleep- 
ing  ;  the  roof  would  not  admit  of  standing  upright,  and  our 
trunks  were  stowed  under  us,  so  that,  though  we  could  nei- 
ther stand  nor  sit  up,  we  could  lie  down.  But  here  were  my 
friend G.  and  myself,  incommoded  with  the  baggage  bound  for 
Mompox,  of  which  we  now  began  to  discover  the  inconve- 
nience. George  himself  found  no  difficulty,  *'  such  fellows 
would  find  Rome  any  where  ;"  he  dressed  our  food  and  dis- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  689 

appeared  till  another  meal  became  necessary,  and  left  it 
wholly  to  our  politeness  how  to  treat  his  baggage ;  however, 
she  aided  in  rendering  our  meals  more  comfortable,  and  be* 
sides  dressing  our  chocolate,  and  making  some  excellent 
chicken  soup,  for  which  George,  an  old  traveller,  had  pro- 
vided the  best  ingredients,  we  became  reconciled  to  our  con- 
dition and  moved  on. 

In  the  road  to  the  embarcadero  we  passed  the  dry  beds  of 
two  mountain  streams,  which  sometimes  render  the  road  im- 
passable. The  Guali,  a  beautiful  stream,  before  noticed,  is 
above  the  rapid,  and  rises  in  the  paramo  de  Ruis^  immedi- 
ately at  the  north-west  side  of  Quiridiu.  Very  little  expense 
and  labour  would  open  a  navigation  between  the  handsome 
town  of  Mariquita  on  the  Guali,  and  the  rio  FericOj  which 
is  about  a  mile  below  Honda,  and  which  is  passed  by  a 
bridge,  the  principle  of  its  construction  is  that  of  the  resist- 
ance of  two  inclined  planes.  The  earthquake  had  disturbed 
one  of  the  stone  butments  of  this  bridge,  the  planes  being  well 
wrought  timber,  and  it  now  stands  with  another  inclination, 
so  that  one  side  of  the  planes  is  about  eighteen  inches  higher 
than  the  other,  and  no  pains  have  been  taken  to  repair  or 
restore  it,  which  might  be  done  in  three  hours  by  two  good 
workmen,  and  half  a  dozen  labourers. 

Just  contiguous  to  the  embarcadero  is  the  Guarino,  a 
much  larger  stream  when  full  than  the  Guali,  and  has  its  rise 
in  the  same  paramo  north  of  Quindiu. 

The  course  now  downwards  is  described  as  containing  not 
less  than  seven  dangerous  passes,  but  I  apprehend  this  must 
relate  to  the  ascent,  as  the  current  is  strong  for  more  than 
twelve  miles  ;  the  course  of  the  stream  is  due  north  ;  at  Le- 
dios  it  turns  abruptly  to  a  point  south  of  east,  and  at  the  end 
of  three  miles  vermiculates  to  the  north-west  by  ConerOy  a 
village  on  the  left  bank,  and  thence  north  to  Guarumo, 
twenty- seven  miles  on  the  right  bank  of  the  rio  Pontona  del 
Gnerramo^  falling  in  on  the  left  side  of  the  Magdalena,  with 


590  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

a  delta  which  conceals  the  stream  when  opposite  to  it.  At 
the  lower  end  of  a  loity  bank,  on  the  left  side,  is  a  small  vil- 
lage named  Zcno^  from  which  the  main  river  has  an  eastern 
inclination  of  about  eleven  miles,  when  the  rio  Negroy  a 
beautiful  and  navigable  river,  falls  on  the  right  side  into  the 
Magdalena  :  here  is  the  proper  point  to  commence  a  carriage 
road  to  Bogota,  which  is  perfectly  practicable  at  a  moderate 
cost. 

This  river  Negro  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  several 
others  of  the  same  name  which  descend  from  the  Cordilleras 
into  this  vast  valley  ;  the  river  Manda  is  its  most  southern 
branch,  another  nearer  to  Calambala,  on  the  Manda;  after  a 
separate  course  of  twelve  to  fifteen  miles,  they  unite  with 
the  Mamu)'  and  the  Dulce,  above  Villetta,  and  it  receives 
the  Sobia,  Veragua,  Ptrion,  and  numerous  smaller  streams 
from  the  eastern  ridges,  taking  a  north-west  course  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Pciion;  after  more  than  twenty  miles  gen- 
tle passage  to  tlie  north-west,  it  receives  the  river  of  Guaduas 
at  twenty  miles  from  that  town,  and  flowing  along  to  the 
north,  in  keeping  a  parallel  course  thence  with  the  Magda- 
lena,  from  its  junction  with  the  Guaduas;  at  the  end  of  se- 
venty miles  it  joins  the  great  river.  I  had  occasion  to  inves- 
tigate the  practicability  of  a  carriage  road  between  Bogota  and 
Honda,  at  the  request  of  some  friends  there,  and  took  for 
my  rule  of  judgment,  besides  personal  information,  the  con- 
btint  characteristic  of  the  mountains  detached  from  the  main 
chain,  and  the  rise  in  a  series  of  levels  above  the  base ;  the 
whole  is  cast  into  groupes,  between  which  rivers  every  where 
find  a  passage  to  rivers  still  greater.  From  Bogota  to  rio  Ne- 
gro there  is  a  succession  and  continuity  of  flowing  waters 
without  any  such  impediments  as  would  prevent  a  carriage 
road  the  whole  route  along  their  banks,  and  upon  which 
wagons  would  not  find  a  better  road  than  lay  between  Bed- 
ford and  Pittsburg  thirty  years  ago,  with  no  other  materials 
than  have  made  tlie  Pittsburg  road  passable.     The  navigation 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  591 

up  this  river  Negro,  one  of  which  or  the  other  should  obtain 
discriminative  names  from  the  government,  is  good ;  a  nar- 
row, not  a  very  elevated  mountain,  separates  the  head  wa- 
ters of  the  river  Carari,  from  the  line  of  the  river  Negro. 

On  the  left  bank,  directly  fronting  the  descent  of  the  Ne- 
gro, stands  Buenavista,  on  the  angle  formed  by  the  rio  de 
la  Miel,  which  descends  from  the  paramos  on  the  west  side ; 
and  the  alluvion  of  the  two  rivers  have  formed  a  spacious 
bank  opposite  Curmanera  on  the  right  side,  but  which  the 
rio  Claro,  and  it  is  a  beautiful  stream,  constantly  washes  away. 

The  Magdalena,  from  the  rio  Claro,  pursues  a  course 
slightly  to  the  east  of  north  more  than  fifty  miles,  but  its 
course  is  broken  into  currents  by  several  sand  islands  be- 
tween this  place  and  the  debouches  of  the  rio  Cocorna,  which 
flows  from  the  west,  and  the  Laguna  de  Palaguas  on  the 
right  side,  below  which  the  river  doubles  the  breadth  of  its 
channel,  and  a  long  island  divides  it  into  two,  the  right  of 
which  is  named  Braso  del  Tigrc,  the  other,  more  spacious,  is 
yet  more  embarrassing,  and  though  chosen  on  the  ascent, 
the  Tigre  is  best  adapted  for  descending.  We  passed 
through  this  channel,  and  reached  Nare  that  evening. 

Nare  stands  on  a  rank  flat  on  the  left  bank,  and  the  wa- 
ters of  the  rio  Samana,  which  receives  that  of  Guatape  in  its 
course,  united  with  the  rio  Negro  de  Nare,  wash  the  north- 
ern fiice  of  this  platform  of  Nare,  as  they  flow  from  west  to 
east,  and  here  join  the  Magdalena  :  these  rivers  aftbrd  com- 
munications for  a  great  part  of  the  populous  province  of  An- 
tioquia.  The  fisheries  here  are  abundant,  and  supply  the 
surrounding  country,  and  the  place  is  a  great  entrepot.  We 
obtained  sufficiently  commodious  quarters,  and  hung  up  our 
hammocks.  We  passed  the  strait,  or  Estrecho  de  Carrares, 
being  twelve  leagues  west  from  the  navigable  waters  of  Cas- 
tare,  inland,  on  the  right  side  of  the  river.  The  navigation 
was  difficult  and  tedious  this  day,  or  the  bogas  had  some  ob- 
ject in  view  in  stopping  short  of  the  usual  post  at  the  points^ 


593  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

of  Gamipata,  or  San  Bartolome  ;  they  suddenly  clianj^cd 
their  course  about  six  o'clock,  and  ran  into  a  cove  where  no 
dwelling  Was  visible — they  called  the  place  MuUasjmtas^  and 
as  we  had  no  power  to  prevail  on  them  to  proceed,  we  hung 
up  our  hammocks  in  some  ranches  which  were  concealed  by 
thickets  of  bamboo,  and  where  wc  spent  an  unpleasant  night, 
from  the  din  of  noise,  yelling,  and  coarse  revelry.  We  pas- 
sed two  lakes  on  the  right,  between  which  lay  the  road  by 
Arocha  to  the  Bodegas  de  Carrare,  Piemarde  Oro,  Pc- 
non  of  Magdalena,  and  the  rio  Vieja,  or  Old  River,  on  the 
right;  and  early  on  the  morning  of  the  13th,  we  passed  be- 
tween a  number  of  beautiful  islands,  the  river  Carrare  enter- 
ing the  Magdalena  from  tiic  south-east,  fifteen  miles  below 
%vhich,  on  the  same  side,  the  river  Opon  enters  the  Magda- 
Jcna,  having  a  large  lake  at  its  debouche. 

The  Magdalena  here  bends  to  the  west  of  north,  thirty 
miles  to  Si.  Pablo,  which  wc  reached  the  same  night,  after 
passing  Brusas,  Bcrnusa,  Barsanca,  and  Zonilla,  on  the  left 
bank,  along  an  angostura,  or  strait,  called  Channay,  the  island 
of  Baldonado  on  our  right,  and  on  the  left  bank  St.  Pablo,  a 
miserable  place,  which  we  reached  when  it  was  too  dark 
to  see,  and  left  it  before  light  enough  returned.  The  river 
here  is  of  great  width,  and  separating  into  channels,  forming 
numerous  islands,  covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation.  We 
passed  Pita,  a  town  on  the  right,  Caretal  and  Paturjas  on 
the  left ;  the  arm  of  the  river  which  flows  between  an  island 
and  the  right  bank  obtains  the  name  of  rio  Chmgale^  as  an 
arm  on  the  opposite  side,  ten  miles  lower  dou  n,  has  the 
name  of  rio  Barranquilla.  The  town  of  Rosario  is  on  the 
right  bank  opposite  Barranquilla,  and  on  the  right  bank  ten 
miles  lower,  opposite  the  isla  de  Limon,  is  the  handsome 
town  of  Badillos,  where  we  stopped  an  hour,  and  obtained 
vegetables,  and  fruit,  and  milk,  for  which  payment  was  re- 
fused, with  an  ingenuous  earnestness  that  seemed  to  derive 
pleasure  from  bestowing.     The  Magdalena  here  divides  into 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  593 

three  branches,  and  the  adjacent  country  thence  to  the  Cau- 
ca ;  Simitu  being  but  twelve  miles  west,  and  Nichi  twenty- 
eight  further  west,  where  the  rio  Nichi  unites  with  the  Cau- 
ca  ;  the  sources  of  the  Nichi,  which  rise  in  the  mountains  of 
Simitara,  and  which  are  barely  discernible  from  the  Magda- 
lena,  is  covered  with  the  abundance  of  the  richest  climates, 
and  a  numerous  population,  counting  within  a  circle  the  radii 
of  which  are  ten  miles,  the  towns  of  Cordero,  Penanes,  Na- 
ransal,  San  Pedro,  Gumea,  Smita  Ysabtl,  Margania,  En- 
camaiia,  Saniilo,  and  Sate,  with  Vera  Cruz  on  the  Cauca, 
being  only  sixteen  miles  west. 

The  Magdalena,  like  the  Ganges  and  other  great  rivers, 
has  frequently  abandoned  its  old  channels  and  formed  new  ; 
the  old  dogas,  who  are  often  found  good  natured  and  com- 
municative, are  as  fond  as  men  more  civilized  of  dis|)laying 
their  knowledge  ;  and  like  the  man  to  whom  Robinson  Cru- 
soe was  the  encyclopedia  of  historical  adventure,  the  honest 
Boga  finds,  in  the  caprices  and  changes  of  the  Magdalena, 
themes  sufficient  to  exercise  his  memory,  and  display  the  su- 
periority of  his  knowledge  over  the  race  less  curious  or  in- 
terested, who  tug  at  the  same  paddle,  or  shove  the  champan 
by  a  pole  like  his  own.  The  abandoned  channels  are  fre- 
quently wholly  closed  after  a  length  of  time,  others  retain  a 
shallow  depth  of  water  by  the  settlement  of  the  deposited 
earth,  or  the  transposition  of  whole  rafts  of  floating  trees, 
which  by  decay  give  way  to  succeeding  floods,  and  thus 
restore  the  old  channels,  abandoning  the  more  recent,  to  be 
again  renewed  and  abandoned.  In  some  places  lagunes  are 
formed  by  these  accidents  of  flood  ;  and  islands  are  detached 
by  the  waters  forcing  the  rich  loose  soil.  This  point  at 
Badillos,  though  the  place  is  not  itself  otherwise  of  much 
importance,  is  that  at  which  the  waters  of  the  Magdalena 
and  the  Cauca  have  created  a  sort  of  inland  archipelago ;  the 
two  rivers  cast  abroad  so  many  limbs  which  interlock,  in  a 
course  of  140  miles  from  north  to  south,  by  60  east  and 

75 


594-  VISIT  TO  COLOMUIA. 

west.  But  the  richness  of  the  valleys  on  the  ri^ht  bank  is 
equally  remarkable  and  important,  and,  like  the  Sunder  bunds 
oi"  the  Ganges,  afford  commercial  navigation  by  the  waters 
which  descend  from  the  Sierra  of  Ocafia,  here  only  twenty 
miles  by  the  road,  irom  the  Bodega  that  leads  to  the  Magda- 
lena.  Its  ordinary  channel  of  descent,  is  that  by  which  we 
passed,  that  of  Morales,  the  western  branch;  the  central,  or 
Canode  Gualinasillo,  is  a  narrow  passage  navigable  by  small 
vessels,  and  by  large  at  high  water,  from  the  island  of  Morales  : 
the  town  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  island  about  half  way 
the  descent.  The  right  branch  is  by  far  the  most  ample, 
and  is  called,  from  its  proximity,  Braso  de  Ocana.        ^ 

The  town  of  Cascajal  is  situated  on  the  uppermost  of  the 
lakes,  about  six  miles  from  the  Braso  de  Ocafia,  and  two 
roads  ascend  the  mountain  region  from  this  place,  by  the 
south  and  north  sides  of  the  Sierra  de  Ocaiia,  and  unite  on 
that  beautiful  table  land.  The  lake.  La  Puerta,  or  the  national 
port  of  Ocafia,  is  but  ten  miles  lower  than  Cascajal ;  but  the 
town  at  that  port,  which  has  sufilred  by  the  war,  must  soon 
rise  under  the  influence  of  the  wealthy  regions  which  sur- 
round it,  and  the  facilities  which  it  presents  for  intercourse, 
by  a  short  and  less  tedious  transit  with  the  valleys  of  Tunja, 
Pamplona,  Merida,  and  Maracaybo,  and  the  ample  and  safe 
navigation  from  thence  to  the  sea  by  the  Magdalena.  This 
place  was  contemplated  to  become  the  site  of  a  central  ci- 
ty for  the  residence  of  the  national  government  ;  the  temper- 
ature, salubrity,  the  abundance  of  every  natural  production 
in  its  vicinity,  point  it  out  as  a  suitable  scite  for  the  capital 
of  a  commercial  country  ;  and  Ociiiia  must  become  the  centre 
of  a  great  population,  as  soon  as  it  shall  be  well  known. 
Such  is  the  miperfection  of  Alcedo's  work,  that  Ocaiia  with 
all  its  advantages  is  not  even  noticed. 

We  reached  Morales  and  halted  there  an  hour.  The 
bank  at  low  water  stands  about  fourteen  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  stream  ;  we  stept  on  shore  from  the  gunnel  of  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  595 

chain  pan,  so  high  was  the  flood  at  this  time  ;  we  had  seen 
the  river  rise  seven  feet  in  an  hour  at  Honda,  and  in  four 
hours  fall  to  its  previous  level.  The  flood  now  trickled  over 
the  platform,  and  menaced  to  wash  the  church  floor,  which  ap- 
peared to  stand  much  in  need  of  it.  The  population  and  the 
luxuriance  of  the  vegetation,  cacao,  coft'ee,  cotton,  tobac- 
co, oranges,  the  delicious  sweet  bananas,  and  hedges  of  odo- 
riferous shrubs  perfuming  the  air,  while  the  people  exhibit- 
ed almost  nudity  ;  they  were  natives  with  little  admixture, 
and,  from  the  intensity  of  their  dark  complexion,  must 
have  been  the  descendants  of  the  primitive  inhabitants  of  the 
river  side.  Thev  were  kind  and  civil,  shewed  ease  and 
confidence,  without  forwardness  or  fear,  and  if  gaiety  and 
abundance  be  tests  of  contentment  and  happiness,  rich  gar- 
ments appeared  not  to  be  requisite  to  assure  at  least  what- 
ever of  felicity  may  belong  to  limited  knowledge.  We  paid, 
but  they  received  with  reluctance  ;  and  though  all  we  pro- 
cured did  not  amount  to  three  reals,  or  thirty-seven  and  half 
cents,  they  insisted  on  adding  to  our  sweet  plantains,  several 
bunches  which  they  saw  we  liked,  and  a  small  rush  basket 
of  other  fruit. 

We  slept  at  Rcgidor  on  the  left  bank,  and  while  the  bogas 
dressed  some  fish,  we  had  a  regale  of  palm  cocoa-nuts,  and 
some  chicha,  which  had  a  vinous  smack  resembling  fresh 
cider.  A  small  town,  St.  Andres,  stands  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river ;  we  here  found  some  stately  trees  covered 
with  the  bottle. shaped  calabash,  growing  apparently  wild, 
and  nobody's  property,  they  were  so  much  more  than  enough 
for  every  body.  A  few  miles  below,  on  the  right  bank,  the 
town  of  St.  Basil  occupies  a  point  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  river  Agualibres  with  the  Magdalena  ;  ten  miles  lower, 
the  site  of  the  once  opulent  city  of  Temalameque,  on  the  an- 
gle formed  by  the  passage  of  the  river  of  that  name  into  the 
Magdalena,  presents  itself  in  the  solitude  of  magnificent 
ruin  ;  this  place  was  formerly  of  some  considerable  import- 


596  VISIT  TO  COLOMUIA. 

ance,  with  a  subordinate  provincial  jurisdiction,  a  place  ol 
great  wealth  ;  its  buildings,  of  stone,  were  blown  up  by  the 
Spaniards. 

The  Magdalena,  from  the  open  union  of  the  several  streams 
above  Rcgidor,  flows  thence  by  Tamalumequc,  about  nine 
miles,  inclining  west  of  north,  when  it  winds  ofifabruptly  to 
the  west  for  eleven  miles,  where  an  ancient  channel  of  the 
river  flows  to  the  south-west  by  Ptnon  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  strait,  and  by  Loba  on  the  right  bank  of  the  old  chan- 
nel :  the  Cicncga  of  Sapatosa  is  the  first  of  a  chain,  itself 
about  eight  miles  diameter;  a  gut  of  a  mile  and  a  half  pro- 
ceeding north-west  unites  it  with  the  Cienega  Pancaychi, 
and  another  strait  or  canal  of  six  miles  leads  to  the  Cienega 
Adentro,  which  is  about  eighteen  miles  long,  and  there  re- 
ceives  the  great  river  Ceasar,  and  other  tributary  rivers  from 
the  north-west.  Tamalamequillo,  I  suspect  created  out  of  the 
fugitives  from  the  desolated  city,  is  a  snug  little  town  on  the 
lower  debouche  of  Sapatosa,  presents  itself  with  a  neat  ap- 
pearance opposite  the  more  ample  and  flourishing  towns  of 
Peiion,  and  Banco,  so  named,  probably  from  the  elevated 
bank  of  ground  upon  which  it  stands  ;  it  is  a  kind  of  custom- 
house, which  overhauled  us  by  a  peragxia  with  two  men, 
one  of  whom  appeared  to  think  himself  of  some  importance, 
though  he  was  very  civil.  The  river,  from  below  Banco, 
continues  in  a  broad  and  splendid  sheet  of  water,  like  a  sea 
of  quicksilver,  or  like  a  China  painting  bright  and  deep  tint- 
ed on  the  borders,  glassy  and  burnished  on  the  smooth  sur- 
face of  the  scarcely  moving  mirror :  the  direction  of  the 
stream  to  the  south-west  is  more  than  fifty  miles ;  some 
islands  appear,  and  one  particularly,  opposite  Guamal,  twenty 
miles  below  Peiion,  on  the  right  bank,  is  about  seven  miles 
in  length,  and  covered  with  luxuriant  forests,  as  are  indeed 
nearly  all  the  banks  of  the  river,  on  both  sides,  from  Honda 
downward,  where  the  hand  of  man  has  not  yet  opened  their 
bosoms  to  the  sun  and  cultivation.    Chillon,  Fernando,  Mar- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  597 

garita,  and  Merchique,  are  small  towns  successively  on  the 
left  bank,  at  seventeen,  twelve,  nine,  and  six  miles  above 
Mompox,  which  we  reached  at  half  past  five  on  the  evening 
of  the  15th. 

Mompox  in  fact  stands  on  an  island  of  forty-eight  miles  in 
length,  and  averaging  twelve  miles  in  breadth.  The  water 
which  bounds  its  south-west  side,  and  which  runs  parallel 
with  the  main  stream,  issues  into  the  Cauca,  eighteen  miles 
below  Mompox,  but  a  multitude  of  streams,  and  numerous 
prosperous  towns,  enrich  and  enliven  the  interior.  Mompox, 
though  my  previously  acquired  information  as  to  its  import- 
ance was  considerable,  very  much  exceeded  my  expecta- 
tions ;  I  had  expected  to  find  a  town  inferior  to  Honda ;  I 
found  a  city  larger  than  San  Carlos,  Truxillo,  or  Pamplona; 
its  streets  better  paved,  and  with  good  tiled  footways  every 
where,  and  broader  than  those  of  any  I  had  seen  in  Colom- 
bia. The  bank  on  which  Mompox  stands  is  steep,  and 
fronted  on  the  river  by  a  stone  wall  of  good  masonry,  with 
semi-embrasures  and  a  parapet.  The  space  between  the 
parapet  and  the  houses,  also  of  stone,  but  in  some  places  only 
from  eight  to  ten  feet. 

We  had  letters,  but  proposed  seekhig  a  house  to  lodge  ;  a 
gentleman  of  the  place,  Mr.  Villel,  seeing  strangers,  accost- 
ed us,  and  invited  us  to  his  house,  to  which  he  conducted  us 
instantly,  and  his  servants  soon  had  our  baggage  in  a  few  mo- 
ments placed  in  our  chamber.  Refreshments  of  the  best  kind 
were  presented,  and  some  excellent  claret,  of  the  flavour  and 
exhilaration  of  which  none  can  so  well  estimate  as  those  who 
who  have  travelled  in  a  boga  or  a  champan  for  a  week.  It 
was  too  late,  and  we  were  too  much  strangers,  to  look  out 
that  evening  for  the  prosecution  of  our  journey.  Our  ad- 
venture on  the  champan  had  closed  here,  and  here,  on  land- 
ing, we  saw  for  the  first  time  our  shipmates  on  the  cham- 
pan, who,  having  the  forecastle,  and  we  the  after  cabin,  were 
as  eflfectually  separated  as  if  we  were  at  the  arctic  and  antarc- 


&98  VISIT   TO   COLOMBIA. 

tic  regions,  though  only  about  fifty  feet  asunder  ;  and  wc 
were  not  a  httle  surprized  and  pleased  at  the  diseovery  now 
made  for  the  first  time,  that  the  troublesome  traveller  who 
broke  down  so  many  mules  to  overtake  us  at  Viletta,  had 
been  our  fellow  passenger,  though  we  learned  afterwards 
at  Carthagena,  that  he  had  quarrelled  w  ith  the  eight  or  nine 
persons  with  whom  he  was  accommodated  in  the  fore  births. 
Our  hospitable  host  had  ordered  ehocolate,  good  cakes, 
and  some  wine,  and  spent  an  hour  with  us,  while  our  ham- 
mocks were  preparing,  and  we  were  changing  our  linen, 
the  first  time  since  we  left  Honda.  Means  to  bathe  our  feet 
were  provided  without  asking,  and  obliging  domestics  per- 
formed  the  office  w  ith  as  much  care  as  if  it  had  been  their 
daily  habit  to  serve  us  for  years.  We  spent  a  short  time  in 
the  delightful  air  of  the  night,  and  retired  about  eleven  to  a 
luxurious  repose. 

As  my  experience  at  Honda  with  the  squinting  civilian, 
had  taught  me  not  to  depend  too  much  upon  official  civility 
every  where,  I  wailed  on  the  civil  governor  personally,  and 
exhibiting  my  best  passport,  requested  to  be  provided  with  a 
good  boga  for  Barancas.  Scnor  Guerra,  the  civil  magistrate, 
was  a  contrast  to  the  Hond  i  ma^nijico,  and  besides  he  had 
an  acquaintance  with  the  world,  of  which  he  had  seen  some; 
he  invited  me  to  refresh  and  to  dine ;  I  declined  with  can- 
dour, that  I  had  a  friend  with  me,  and  could  not  separate ; 
'"•  but  your  friend  must  come  also,  said  he,  and  do  not  go  so 
soon."  I  felt  obliged,  and  told  him  so,  and  having  some  wine 
I  drank  with  him,  and  waited  a  little  while  till  he  made  in- 
quiries how  he  could  serve  me ;  on  his  return  he  smilingly 
said,  "  you  must  not  take  la  mahana  in  its  common  practical 
use,"  but  he  would  see  and  assure  me  of  a  boga  on  the  morn- 
ing. He  presented  me  some  London  papers,  only  six  weeks 
old,  and  the  first  numbers  of  a  Spanish  periodical  work,  pub- 
lished in  London,  in  March,  after  perusing  which  I  took  my 
leave.     Meanwhile  our  good  host  had,  as  I  requested,  bar- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  599 

gained  for  a  bog-a,  for  the  exclusive  use  of  myself  and  friend, 
which  he  obtained.  I  was  apprehensive,  that  if  a  champan 
or  boga  was  provided  by  the  public  authorities,  that  we  should 
perhaps  be  alongside  that  quarrelsome  jllbustier^  for  such  in 
fact  he  was ;  for  the  same  reason  we  determined  to  embark 
that  night,  and  in  fact  had  our  baggage  on  board,  and  were 
afloat  at  ten  on  the  night  of  the  16th  of  May.  We  had  but 
just  got  under  cover  and  afloat  when  a  sniart  rain  commenced, 
but  the  current  required  as  yet  no  additional  force ;  we  floated 
at  the  rate  of  about  five  miles  an  hour,  and  in  the  morning 
found  the  sweep  of  the  flood  arrested  by  the  vast  volume  of 
the  Cauca,  which  here  appeared  a  stagnant  pool,  covered 
with  eddies  and  floating  vegetation,  rising  as  it  were  above 
the  now  limpid  Magdalena.  * 

Habit,  from  a  peculiarity  of  disposition  perhaps,  or  the 
early  transitions  I  had  made  to  different  parts  of  the  world, 
had  enabled  me  not  only  to  sleep  at  any  hour  of  day  or  night, 
but  to  awake  at  any  hour  predetermined,  and  I  only  men- 
tion it,  because  I  am  perfectly  satisfied  that  this  habit  may 
be  acquired  by  any  young  man  who  has  constancy  enough 
to  determine,  and  do  as  he  determines.  My  friend  G.  was  ex- 
actly of  the  same  cast,  so  that  watching  was  not  difficult  nor  in- 
convenient. As  soon  as  we  had  got  into  this  "  dead  sea,"  and 
the  boga  lost  its  motion^  I  discovered  that  the  patron,  and  his 
two  assistant  bogas  in  the  forecastle,  had  instinctively  com- 
mitted themselves  and  us  to  the  caprice  of  the  waters  ;  it  was 
necessary  to  use  some  "  ship  logic^''  to  arouse  them  to  duty  ; 
the  patron  put  the  best  face  on  it,  laughed  at  his  own  somno- 
lency, complimented  us  on  our  watchfulness,  and  told  us  a 
story  ;  till,  finding  that  the  nipping  air  of  the  morning  was 
acting  upon  our  eyelids,  he  set  up  a  song  to  the  Virgin,  with 
a  good  nasal  twang,  and  followed  it  by  a  patriotic  canta,  of 
which  Bo-lee-v'^r  was  the  fond  theme.  The  name  is  pro- 
nounced in  this  way :  the  sounds  Bol-ox-var,  are  not  heard, 


600  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

the  bo  is  full,  and  the  cnipliusis  is  on  i  as  ce  in  Ice^  and  in  tlic 
last  syllable  the  a  is  but  barely  aspirated. 

Whoever  will  consult  a  good  map,  on  a  scale  not  lesbthan 
five  miles  to  an  inch,  may  form  some  idea  ol"  the  lortunale 
position  of  the  city  ofMompox.  For  two  centuries  this  place 
has  been  the  centre  of  the  gold  trade,  for  all  the  valleys 
which  unite  their  waters  and  their  communications  with  the 
Cauca  and  Magdalena.  It  was  originally  an  Indian  settle- 
ment. In  1540,  Jerome  de  Cruz  made  it  an  establishment 
or  entrepot  between  the  upper  and  lower  waters,  and  in  about 
seventy  years  nfterwards,  in  the  close  of  the  reign  of  Philip 
II,  when  a  new  ministry  and  a  new  s\  stem  had  given  some 
momentary  energy  to  the  Spani^^h  dependencies,  Mompox  be- 
came at  once  the  channel  of  regular  and  rich  commerce  in  the 
precious  metals ;  but  as  the  j)rineipal  outlet  for  an  export  more 
rich,  which  has  never  wholly  ceased  since,  it  has  fluctuated 
with  policy,  war,  and  revolution.  No  place  in  Colombia,  in 
*thc  circuit  which  I  made,  exhii^its  so  much  prosperity  and 
contentedness ;  the  only  unhappiness  I  saw  there  was  the 
result  of  excessive  wealth,  which  almost  every  where  too 
often  makes  man,  who  is  not  blessed  by  a  generous  heart, 
titlier  a  misanthrope  or  a  sot. 

A  stranger  who  passes  the  rectanglcd  streets  of  Mompox 
at  the  dawn,  hears  the  clink  of  the  anvil  on  every  side;  every 
house  he  looks  into  has  the  forge  and  the  crucible,  the  vice 
and  the  hammer,  busy  ;  it  is  indeed  a  gentler  sound  than  that 
of  the  coppersmith,  but  it  seems  as  if  all  the  goldsmiths  of  the 
earth  had  assembled  at  Mompox  to  work  for  a  wager.  At 
noon  this  clickclack  is  suspended  ;  the  climate  invites  to  rest, 
and  they  have  made  such  good  use  of  the  balsamic  air  of  the 
morning,  that  they  have  done  enough ;  they  know  how  to  live, 
they  have  the  bath,  and  their  style  of  living  is  better  as  to 
gusto  than  any  native  modes  I  had  seen  ;  but  between  three 
and  four  the  hammer  is  again  at  work,  till  the  sun  descends, 
as  if  to  bid  them  dress  in  their  best  and  go  to  the  dance,  \\  here 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  §01 

their  feet  and  the  fiddler's  elbows  rival  the  activity  of  the 
hammers'  in  the  morning.  One  would  suppose  there  could 
not  be  gold  enough  in  the  universe  to  employ  so  many  ham- 
mers. I  learned  a  point  of  discretion  on  this  subject;  being 
curious  about  facts,  and  of  course,  where  every  body  was 
hammering  at  gold,  I  happened  to  ask  a  shrewd  goldsmith, 
— who  was  polite,  inquisitive,  and  pleased  himself  as  ready  to 
please, — what  the  quantity  of  gold  might  be  that  was  annually 
wrought  at  Mompox  ?  its  purity  from  either  river  or  side  of 
the  valley?  and  what  proportion  of  coined  silver  was  an  equiva- 
lent for  gold  ?  The  sensible  artisan  smiled  significantly,  and  I 
soon  perceived  I  was  inquiring  into  secrets  not  to  be  invaded. 
"These  are  facts,  Seiior,"  said  he,  "  which  nobody  in  Mom- 
pox knows !"  I  did  not  at  once,  from  the  double  exigency  of 
translating  the  words  and  combining  them  into  sense,  take 
the  hint ;  he  rt-lieved  me  ;  "  Come,"  said  he,  *'  Senor, 
when  you  have  made  more  proficiency  in  Spanish,  I'll  tell 
you  why  it  is  not  our  business  to  know  any  of  the  facts  you 
inquire  about."  I  asked  no  more  questions  about  other  men's 
business  ;  but  the  honest  goldsmith  ordered  some  very  good 
fruit,  and  told  me,  I  must  be  the  American  colonel  whose 
daughter  his  daughters  had  visited  a  month  ago,  as  1  answered 
the  description  she  gave  them. 

M.  Villel,  at  whose  house  we  lodged,  M-hen  he  could  not 
prevail  on  us  to  stay,  placed  in  the  hands  of  our  servant  a 
quantity  of  chocolate  unknown  to  us,  until  we  were  about 
to  breakfast  below  the  confluence  of  the  Cauca.  Our  ser- 
vant George  had  disposed  of  his  baggage  at  Mompox,  and 
this  was  fortunate,  for  our  boga  was  so  narrow,  that  we  two 
could  not  lie  side  by  side  on  the  split  cane  bed,  upon  which 
we  spread  our  clothes,  and  we  were  obliged  either  to  sleep  and 
watch  by  turns,  or  to  lie  like  the  soldiers  under  the  field  eco- 
nomy of  Marshal  Saxe,  or,  in  the  soldier's  phrase,  "  heads 
and  points." 

76 


602 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

The  Magdalena,  leaving  Mompox — Pinto — Guayamal — Plato — TenerifTe — ac- 
count of  its  capture  by  General  Cordova — anecdote  of  a  negro  militia  soldier — 
numerous  towns — lake  of  Marerica — Rio  Cuamillar — reappearance  of  the  An- 
des— Valley  Dupar — ^Forres — his  estate  of  San  Carlos — now  a  desert — reach 
Barranca  Nueva — the  digue  or  canal — Siepe — negroes  brought  from  the  West 
Indies — hapless  condition — night  adventures  at  Mahate— Arjona — pestiferoug 
pool — exaction  for  passing  it — foul  enough  for  Cocytus  or  Styx — Charon's 
lieutenar.l— luxuriant  forests — spacious  opening  of  the  road — Turbajo — beau- 
tiful elevation,  handsome  houses,  broad  streets — neatness  and  temperature  de- 
lightful— the  Montpellier  of  the  provinces  around — delightful  route  to  Cartha- 
gena — cotton  trees  for  hedges — village  of  Benavides — 'J'ernera — see  the  Po- 
pa-  meet  my  friend  Major  Brush — enter  Carthagena  by  the  left  of  San  La- 
zaro — striking  aspect  of  the  military  works — advantage  of  travelling  with  a 
military  title. 

The  Mugdalena,  after  leaving  Mompox,  flows  for  thirty 
miles  in  a  south-west  direction,  when  it  stretches  its  broad 
bason  nearly  north  for  twelve  miles  to  Pinto.  An  island  of 
some  extent,  whose  only  inhabitants  are  monkies  of  a  very 
large  growth,  concea^js  the  view  of  the  town  of  St.  Sebastian, 
on  the  remotest  cast  bank ;  thence  to  Pinto,  which  stands 
in  front  of  the  broad  river,  and  seems  to  shut  it  up  from  all 
egress.  There  are  several  towns  on  the  right  and  left  banks  ; 
those  on  the  right  are  Zeiio,  San  Fernando,  and  Santa  Ana  ; 
those  on  the  left  are  Talcagua,  Naranja,  and  Tomacal. 

The  river  in  front  of  Pinto  again  strikes  off  to  the  west 
seventeen  miles  ;  the  channels  of  the  Cauca  and  Magdalena 
here  uniting,  their  deposite  forms  an  island  west  of  Pinto, 
behind  which  are  three  little  towns ;  where,  rusliing  to  the 
right  side,  it  leaves  a  longer  island  on  the  left,  called  Guay- 
amal. The  river  here  takes  a  new  direction,  directly  west, 
about  eighteen  miles  to  Plato^  which  is  on  the  right  bank,  a 
place  of  some  consequence.  The  towns  contiguous  to  the 
river  here  are  numerous,  as  the  climate  is  delicious  and  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  603 

landscape  delightful.  Several  rivers  fall  in  from  the  west, 
and  the  evidences  of  population  and  natural  riches  are  every 
where  conspicuous,  on  those  beautiful  but  solitary  and  yet 
unappreciated  waters. 

From  Plato  the  river  winds  a  little  more  to  the  west,  and 
the  great  stream,  which  gives  a  circuitous  navigation,  is  aban- 
doned, to  follow  a  beautiful  channel,  which  has  cut  off  part 
of  the  bank,  and  formed  the  island  of  Playatura  ;  it  is  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  and,  though  we  passed  it  at  mid- 
day, such  was  the  loftiness  of  the  forests,  that  the  sunbeams 
were  excluded  from  this  charming  canal.  Emerging  from 
this  shade,  the  stream  broke  upon  our  left  with  added  mag- 
nificence ;  having  gained  the  centre  of  the  current,  there  stood 
upon  our  right  a  bold  and  rounded  hill,  with  a  splendid 
stretch  of  the  river  stealing  to  the  north. 

I  prevailed  upon  the  patron,  who  had  now  become  com- 
municative, to  bear  nearer  to  the  right  shore,  and  one  of 
our  bogas,  who  was  the  only  one  of  African  descent  I  had 
yet  seen  on  the  river,  gave  us  an  account  of  the  capture  of 
this  place.  On  our  passage  from  Mompox,  as  this  poor 
fellow  was  not  much  better  clad  or  provided  for  than  the 
soldiers  who  have  the  honour  to  win  battles  for  other  men's 
glory,  accidentally  exposed  his  abdomen,  which  appeared  as 
if  it  had  been  ripped  open  from  the  left  hip  to  beneath  the 
right  arm-pit ;  and,  more  extraordinary,  such  had  been  the 
fact :  unaware  how  the  wound  had  been  made,  I  enquired, 
and  thus  came  to  learn  that  he  had  been  a  slave,  and,  having 
taken  up  arms  for  Colombia,  was  one  of  the  soldiers  under 
the  command  of  Colonel  Cordova  (since  general  of  division, 
promoted  on  the  field  of  Ayacuoho) — he  exposed  his  arm 
from  beneath  his  blanket ;  and  that  had  also  been  wonderfully 
cured  of  a  sabre  wound. 

The  Spaniards  under  Morales  had  occupied  Teneriffe — 
the  town  stood  on  a  bank,  whose  lowest  termination  on  the 
river  was  about  ten  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  current ;  a 


004  VISIT  TO  Colombia. 

graduiil  slope  of  about  1 10  yards  led  to  a  more  steep  ascent, 
which  tcriuiiuitcd  in  the  handsome  shaped  hill.  The  town 
stood  in  slopinfj^  terraces  from  the  river,  to  nearly  the  sum- 
mit of  this  hill  ;  to  the  south,  handsome  fields  of  culture; 
and  to  the  north,  liaciendas,  mjuic  in  ruin,  and  some  rebuild- 
ing, were  clear  to  the  sight.  But  the  town  itself  was  an  utter 
wreck  ;  the  havoc  of  ariilk-ry  was  as  fresh  as  the  day  after 
the  assault;  gavel  ends  lay  in  the  places  in  which  they  had 
fallen  ;  the  timbers  of  the  roofs  stood  in  all  directions,  as  if 
an  explosion  took  place  a  week  before,  and  of  all  lengths 
and  magnitudes,  doors  and  windows  gave  every  attitude  of 
which  ruin,  and  military  ruin  especially,  is  so  ingenious  in 
forming. 

'I'he  Spanish  force  which  had  ascended  the  Magdalena  to 
this  place,  had  seized  on  the  position  with  consummate  judg- 
ment. From  its  summit  the  stream  was  commanded  above 
and  below,  and  a  fleet  of  twenty-seven  stout  flecheras,  with 
heavy  brass  artillery,  and  numerous  river  craft,  enabled 
them  to  intercejjt  every  thing  passing  by  water,  which  could 
pass  only  in  sight  of  TenerilVe.  The  country  on  both  sides 
abounded  with  rich  agriculture,  and  no  part  of  the  republic 
has  so  many  towns  on  a  like  space,  composed  of  graziers  or 
agriculturists,  as  this  from  the  mouth  of  the  Opon  river,  or 
the  outlets  of  Ocaiij  to  the  Digue  of  Nueva  Barranca  twen- 
ty.five  miles  below.  The  view  of  a  military  position  al- 
ways excites  curiosity.  A  work  which  presents  only  a  flank 
or  a  bastion  to  an  adversary,  and  masks  the  rest,  acts  upon 
the  ardour  of  action  as  if  there  were  no  more  difliculty  than 
was  first  seen,  but  where  not  only  real  works  are  to  be  over- 
come, but  artificial  means  are  so  easily  employed  to  give  an 
appearance  of  reality  and  force,  both  in  works  and  numbers, 
such  a  position,  in  capable  hands,  is  doubly  strengthened  by 
actual  and  moral  force. 

The  force  of  the  republicans,  was  selected  by  General 
Jhariafw  Montilla^  intendant  of  the  department  of  Cartagena, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  600 

whose  infirm  state  of  health  detained  him  below,  but  it  was 
placed  under  a  youth  of  twenty-two,  who  had  already  distin- 
guished himself  in  the  field.  Colonel  Cordova  had  eleven  Jie- 
cherasy  withgunsi(|Pdifferent  calibre,  eighteen  champans  of  the 
largest  size,  well  manned  with  the  best  bogas  that  could  be 
collected  on  the  river  between  Mom  pox,  Cartagena,  and 
Santa  Marta,  and  some  of  the  most  expert  pilots  of  the 
coast,  accustomed  to  boisterous  seas  and  storms,  and  to 
whom  danger  was  temperamental.  There  was  no  cove  nor 
indent  in  front  of  Tcnerifll",  and  the  sides  of  the  place  above 
and  below  were  so  encumbered  with  vegetation  as  to  forbid 
an  attack  on  either  quarter,  which  would  leave  the  Spanish 
flotilla  to  act  at  ihe  same  time  with  the  land  force  ;  a  false  step 
of  one  or  the  other,  might  be  fatal  to  all.  Cordova  determin- 
ed to  move  upon  the  Spanish  flotilla,  board,  and  attack  it  at 
its  anchorage  ;  having  disposed  of  half  of  his  troops  in 
champans,  in  the  Cana  de  Plato,  and  placed  row  boats  to 
cover  the  outer  stream,  he  moved  up  the  lelt  bank  before 
dawn,  so  as  to  glide  down  with  the  current  at  the  first 
glimpse  of  day ;  his  division  in  the  canal  was  to  move  at 
the  sound  of  the  first  gun.  The  first  gun  was,  in  fact,  a  sig- 
nal from  the  ^rtitje/ucho,  and  the  whole  line  of  Cordova's 
flotilla  came  in  contact,  boat  w  ith  boat,  at  the  same  instant. 
Cordova,  himself,  was  the  first  on  board  the  leading  flechera 
of  the  Spaniards.  The  batteries  on  shore  could  not  now  act, 
on  account  of  the  position  of  their  own  flotilla — the  cham- 
pans w  ith  the  troops  had  not  yet  approached,  but  they  were 
in  view,  spread  across  the  river,  here  about  three  miles 
broad.  Cordova  seized  and  carried  off"  every  armed  vessel 
of  the  Spaniards  ;  some  smaller  craft  were  upset,  and  the 
Sj)anish  troops  who  could  swim,  sought  to  escape  by  water, 
but  many  perished  in  the  attempt.  Cordova  drew  off"  the 
captured  flotilla  and  his  owm,  and  taking  a  position  a  few 
miles  above,  distributed  his  force  on  the  captured  feluchas, 
manned  them  with  the  best  riflemen,  from  his  reserved  cham- 


606  VISIT  TO  COLOMlilA. 

pans,  and   placed  sucli  craft  as  were  not  required  for  actual 
service,  on  the  left  bank  within  sij^nul  distance. 

No  time  was  lost — the  Spaniards  had  not  yet  recovered 
from  their  confusion,  when  a  heavy  conftgitric  fire,  irom  all 
the  fcluchas,  now  thirty  eight  in  number,  opened  upon  the 
Spanisli  troops  which  lined  the  beach  ;  they  retired  within 
the  town,  which  being  constructed  wholly  of  fragile  materi- 
als, fnta  w  alls  being  even  few,  or  necessary  in  that  climate, 
the  fire  was  extended  to  the  town  ;  and  so  effectually  as  to 
exhibit  a  scene  of  disorder  as  distinct  to  the  assiiilants  as 
their  own  squadron.  The  signal  was  given  to  land,  and 
Cordova  with  his  staff  was  on  the  beach,  the  flotilla  was  ar- 
ranged into  two  squadrons,  above  and  below  the  town,  and 
then  commenced  a  conflict  the  most  sanguinary  ;  it  was  not 
the  action  of  manoeuvres  of  columns  and  battalions,  but  of 
detachments  and  squads,  and  of  individuals  hand  to  hand. 
The  honest  boga  here  displayed  tlie  horrible  scar  on  his  arm  ; 
he  had  belonged  to  a  militia  company,  each  of  whom  had 
selected  some  man  for  combat ;  a  Spaniard  selected  him, 
and  the  sabre  wound  on  his  arm  prostrated  him  ;  while 
down,  another  assailant,  with  a  large  cuchillo^  ript  open  his 
bowels  and  kft  him  ;  what  lolloued  he  knew  not,  till  he 
found  himself  in  a  ruined  rancJio^  some  women  of  the  coun- 
try about  him  ;  the  bowels  which  had  protruded  through 
the  wound  had  been  replaced,  the  sides  of  the  wound  closed, 
his  body  bandaged,  and  vegetable  cataplasms  applied  ;  his 
arm  was  treated  in  the  same  way ;  and  "  here  I  am,"  said 
he,  with  an  emotion  of  laughter,  which  seemed  to  express 
the  exultation  of  gratitude  and  delight. 

The  place  was  taken,  and  the  whole  of  the  stores  the  Spa- 
niards had  brought — and  many  prisoners ;  the  Spanish  force 
never  alter  appeared  in  the  Magdalena.  Tenerifie  is  in  9° 
22'  N.  lat.  and  74°  46'  W.  long. 

The  country  east  and  west  of  Tencriffe,  appears  to  be  the 
best  adapted  for  settlement  of  any  part  of  the  republic,  for 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  607 

an  agricultural  and  commercial  people.  It  is  indeed  already 
more  populous  than  I  had  anticipated.  The  peninsula,  * 
as  it  may  be  considered,  is  formed  on  the  east  side  by  the 
Magdalcna,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Gulf  of  Tolu,  and  no 
where  fifty  miles  across ;  many  navigable  rivers  have  their 
sources  in  the  very  depressed  hills  that  are  intermediate,  so 
as  to  afford  portages  not  more  than  seven,  five,  and  three 
miles ;  and  a  vast  contraband  has  been  carried  on  from 
those  waters  from  the  first  settlement  to  the  present  day. 
AWre  it  not  for  this  circumstance,  the  number. of  towns 
which  every  where  garnish  the  banks  could  not  be  account- 
ed for.  They  embellish  the  landscape  by  day,  and  by  night 
you  have  not  lost  the  lively  notes  of  one  fandango,  bclbre 
those  of  another  are  blended  with  them,  exciting  lively 
pleasure,  as  the  boat  floats  without  noise  or  impulse  on  the 
tranquil  surface  of  this  apparently  motionless  mirror.  Below 
Plato,  on  the  right  bank,  I  counted  thirteen  towns,  with 
large  intervals  of  pasture  or  cultivated  lands,  the  largest  of 
which  were  Purgatoria  and  Santa  Cruz.  On  the  left  bank 
St.  Tomas,  Carcajal,  Scton,  Guatima,  and  the  inland  of  the 
same  name,  St.  Francisco,  Zambrano,  and  below  the  strait 
of  Teneriffe  also,  on  the  left  side,  St.  Aquinin,  wht-re  the 
river  bends  to  the  north-east ;  Noverio,  on  the  point  formed 
by  the  entrance  of  the  Cuerrey  from  the  west,  and  Neverita, 
on  the  left  side  of  its  debouche.  The  great  lake  of  Manrica, 
twenty-two  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  s:x  miles  east 
and  west,  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Magdalena,  its  south  ex- 
tremity being  due  east  from  Teneriffe  eleven  miles.  It  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  the  Chamillar  from  the  east,  and  numer- 
ous other  streams,  and  discharges  them  by  two  channels  into 
the  Magdalena,  the  most  southern  eight  miles  below  Tene- 
riffe, and  the  northern  four  miles  lower  down,  the  interme- 
diate land  extending  to  the  lake  nine  miles  from  the  river. 

The  mountains  of  the  great  chain  west  and  e^iit,  which, 
after  leaving  Nare,  very  soon  disappear  altogether,  except- 


608  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

ing  two  pyramidal  clumps  of  rocks,  which  appear  to  block 
4iup  the  channel  in  the  passage  to  Mompox,  are  not  seen  but 
in  questionable  shapes  on  the  right  and  the  left,  till  in  sight 
of"  Teneriffc' ;  the  indistinct  but  unvarying  line  ol  dark  blue 
shade  mixing  with  the  clouds  of  evening,  show  the  Sierra 
of  Santa  Marta  ;  but  below,  and  nearer,  the  morning  lights 
mark  lower  ranges,  and,  still  lower,  and  more  near,  green 
and  undulating.  1  looked  towards  these  vine-covered  hills 
and  once  g.iy  regions,  whose  north  bound  marks  the  valley 
Dupar,  with  a  mixture  ol  delight  and  sorrow.  I  had  before 
me  the  map  traced  by  the  hand  of  the  late  Manuel  Trux- 
illo  y  Torres,  first  minister  of  the  Colombian  Republic  to 
the  United  St.ites.  His  former  estate — his  residence — the 
scenes  of  his  married  years,  and  the  birth-place  of  his  child, 
a  dautihter  whose  death  was  one  of  the  arrows  which  quick- 
ened the  current  of  life;  here  he  had,  by  his  own  mild,  kind, 
and  consummate  temper,  redeemed  the  Indian  of  the  for- 
est, and  formed  a  native  population,  mild,  industrious,  in- 
genious, and,  as  he  himself  said,  the  best  gardeners  and  cul- 
tivators in  the  world ;  here  he  had  founded  a  new  little  world 
of  his  own — the  land  was  a  gift  from  Cliarles  JV.  of  Spain, 
on  the  presentation  of  the  Viceroy,  Archbishop  Gongara ; 
here  he  married,  and  here  he  often  said  he  ought  to  have 
lived  and  died — but  he  was  called  to  supply  different  sta- 
tions ad  interim,  upon  the  removal  or  resignation  of  intend- 
ants  or  others,  and  on  confidential  commissions  at  Santa 
Marta,  Cirt^gena,  La  Hacha,  and  frequently  at  Bogota  and 
Tunja.  His  education,  and  the  force  of  his  intellectual  and 
moral  principles,  made  him  a  friend  of  his  species,  and  of 
human  liberty.  General  Nariiiho  was  the  last  of  a  band,  of 
which  Torres  was  also  one,  who  had,  with  the  early  dawn  of 
the  revolution  of  North  America,  prepared  the  way  for  that 
of  the  South — which  he  just  lived,  after  thirty- four  years  of 
exile,  to  see  recognized  as  independent,  and,  at  the  mo- 
ment w  hen  all  his  labours  were  consummated,  to  close  his 
living  career.     He  was  among  those  who  were  ordered  to 


VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA.  609 

be  seized,  imprisoned,  and  sent  to  Europe,  but  he  w^as  too 
much  beloved,  wherever  he  had  authority,  not  to  have  friends: 
his  escape  was  connived  at ;  and,  after  reaching  with  his 
funds  an  island  of  the  West  Indies,  where  he  remained 
some  time,  he  removed  to  Philadelphia,  where  he  lived  in 
various  degrees  of  good  and  evil  fortune  to  his  death.  He 
had  entrusted  his  funds,  in  order  that  they  should  produce  a 
respectable  subsistence  without  waste,  to  persons  in  trade  ;  he 
was  fortunate  sometimes  in  the  adventures,  but  in  others  was 
defrauded  by  those  to  whom  he  had  committed  them ;  by  one 
person,  since  deceased,  he  lost  70,000  dollars — it  was  his 
all.  He  had  occasional  remittances  from  his  wife  while  she 
lived ;  but  the  information  communicated  by  Yrujo  and 
Onis,  of  his  zeal  in  the  revolt  of  South  America,  and  the 
efforts  he  was  making  to  furnish  the  patriots  with  supplies, 
caused  his  estate  at  San  Carlos  to  be  confiscated  a  short  time 
after  the  death  of  his  last  living  ties. 

The  hacienda  of  St.  Carlos  was  not  more  than  sixty  miles 
distance,  I  was  told  ;  but  what  should  I  see  there?  for  Torres 
was  no  more,  his  ashes  slept  in  the  cemetery  of  St.  Mary's, 
Philadelphia ;  and  what  gratification  could  be  derived  from 
seeing  the  desolation  that  followed  confiscation.  I  enquired ; 
and  learned  there  was  not  a  vestige  of  a  habitation  :  the  forests 
which  he  had  felled,  and  the  gardens  l.iid  out  and  cultivated 
under  his  own  eye,  in  which  were  collected  and  collecting 
all  the  riches  of  the  botanical  regions  ;  the  avenues  of  cotton 
trees  and  oranges,  the  groves  of  foreign  firs  on  the  lofty 
peaks,  and  the  palms  in  the  valleys,  had  lost  their  order  and 
their  disposition :  the  cotton  tree  sheds  its  pods  in  such 
profusion  as  to  diminish  into  dwarfs,  and  the  orange  had 
become  bitter  and  deformed,  as  if  in  anger  or  despair :  the 
poor  Indian  too  had  lost  his  earthly  providence  ;  and,  when  his 
race  was  run,  the  progeny  who  followed  became  like  their  pro- 
genitors, ignorant,  indocile,  and  wild,  little  more  rational  than 
the  monkeys  which  gamboled  on  the  lofty  branches  of  the 

77 


610  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

champaca^  or  the  mountain  cedar.  A  wilderness  was  to  Ijc 
seen  on  all  sides ;  there  was  no  charm  left  to  replace  the 
paradise  that  4iad  been  created  by  my  friend :  I  did  not  go ; 
I  could  not  but  cast  an  eye  to  the  hills,  which  the  bright 
moon  revealed  ;  and  when  we  reached  Barrancas  about  three 
in  the  morning  of  the  18th,  I  preferred  going  to  sleep  for  a 
couple  of  hours,  to  escape  the  feelings  which  perhaps  were 
the  more  acute  from  the  irritation  of  watching  and  keeping 
the  watermen  awake  and  at  their  oars. 

Our  baggage  was  transferred  to  the  rocky  bank  of  the 
river,  and  repeated  messages  to  the  alcalde  were  without  suc- 
cess. No  passport  was  efiective  for  him  ;  the  plain  ordinary 
passport  Was  of  equal  value  with  him  as  a  command,  as  that 
from  the  minister  of  the  interior ;  for  he  was  between  seven 
and  eight  hundred  miles  off;  a  lawyer  with  a  heavy  fee  en- 
gaged in  a  technical  discrimination,  could  not  be  more  in- 
genious in  discovering  the  meaning  and  signification  of 
words,  etymologic,  metaphoric,  paraphrastic,  and  any  thing 
but  positive  or  direct.  Two  intt  rpretations,  different  from  each 
other,  had  already  been  given  of  the  passport ;  it  was  left  for 
the  little  alcalde  of  Barrancas  Nueva,  to  find  out  a  third;  and 
this  was  in  fact  to  be  explained  after  all  by  employing  one 
mule  more  than  wje  wanted;  and  without  which,  we  could 
not  budge  from  this  same  rocky  mound  of  ferruginous  trap ; 
instead,  therefore,  of  six  we  were  obliged  to  take  seven 
mules;  and,  instead  of  three  dollars,  the  usual  price,  we  were 
obliged  to  pay  four  dollars  for  each  mule  ;  and  it  was  eleven 
o'clock  of  the  forenoon  before  we  could  escape  over  the 
steps  of  the  trap  ridge ;  from  this  worst  trap  of  all,  a  profli- 
gate alcalde,  Avho  wore  by  his  side  a  sword  stolen  from  an 
officer  who  had  travelled  that  route,  and  which  my  servant 
now  recognised  at  his  side,  and  as  the  property  of  his  former 
master ;  being  reproached,  and  this  sword  pointed  at,  he  re- 
plied only  by  an  exulting  contortion,  neither  grin  nor  smile, 
and  yet  designed  to  be  both. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  611 

Before  we  reached  this  place,  we  passed  Palmas,  Palma- 
nito,  Cascali,  Buenavista,  Yucal,  and  Barrancas  Viejo,  or 
Old  Barrancas,  on  the  left  side,  and  immediately  above  New 
Baranca.     On  the  right  side  Htrredia  and  Ferrara. 

The  town  of  Barrancas  Nueva  is  situated  on  the  Mag- 
dalena,  here  flowing  from  south  to  north,  on  its  east  face ; 
a  breach  of  the  river,  as  the  name  signifies,  overflowing  at  the 
foot  of  the  mound  of  ferruginous  trap  rock,  appears  to  have 
made  a  natural  inlet  or  communication  with  the  interior  lower 
ground  to  the  west  side  of  the  peninsula ;  uniting  the  wa- 
ters which  enter  the  same  channels  with  the  lake  and  harbour 
of  Cartagena,  which  are  not  more  than  twenty  five  miles  due 
west  of  Barrancas  Nueva ;  but  the  currents  when  united 
taking  a  direction  from  Barrancas  south-west  thirty  miles, 
and  from  Sinorin  on  the  west,  in  a  north-east  direction,  thirty 
miles,  give  it  a  course  of  an  angular  form,  which  makes  its 
meanderings  more  than  sixty-four  miles.  This  breach  of  the 
waters  is  the  scite  of  what  has  been  called  the  Digue^  or  Cano 
del  Barrancas.  The  Spanish  government  had  authorised  the 
application  of  much  ill-directed  labour,  and  great  expense, 
intending  to  give  to  this  ditch  the  advantage  of  a  free  and 
ample  navigable  communication  with  the  west  side,  so  as  to 
draw  through  this  channel  the  commodities  which  usually 
passed  down  to  Barranquilla,  eighty  miles  below,  or  through 
the  canal  de  Renagado  into  the  Cienega  of  Santa  Marta,  a 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  north-east. 

The  work  was  placed  in  bad  hands;  and  undertaken  to  be 
executed  by  persons  who  either  did  not  understand  what 
should  be  done,  or,  if  they  did,  perfidiously  neglected  to  do 
it.  The  great  object  should  have  been  to  obtain  a  free  cur- 
rent from  either  side.  The  Magdalena  is  always  sufficiently 
elevated  to  carry  a  powerful  stream  by  its  own  force  through 
this  channel,  had  the  means  been  taken  to  profit  by  its  cur- 
rent ;  at  the  mouth  of  the  Digue  nothing  more  was  required 
than  to  deepen  the  inward  channel  between  the  two  exterior 


612  VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA. 

waters  before  the  flood  was  admitted  at  either  side  on  the  line 
of  the  natural  run  of  water;  which  would  have  afforded,  with 
the  plains  and  handsome  hills  between  which  it  runs,  ample 
space  to  take  levels.  To  force  the  Magdalcna  to  pay  tribute 
and  drive  the  current,  an  oblique  scciion  cut  from  the  upper 
rocky  angle  of  Barrancas  would  aflord  materials  to  form  a  pier 
or  mound  on  its  lower  side,  projecting  in  an  angle  of  45°  to 
50°  to  the  current  of  the  river,  and  thus  carrying  as  much  of 
its  current  as  experience  might  speedily  determine  to  be  ne- 
cessary into  the  Digue  or  canal. 

At  present  the  mouth  of  the  Digue  is  employed  as  a  horse- 
pond  ;  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  lr(jm  the  river  it  is  dry, 
and  when  we  reached  it  on  our  inland  route  beyond  Arjona 
about  thirty  miles,  it  was  a  green  and  tuj:bid  pool,  the  stench 
of  which  affected  the  senses  at  half  a  mile  distance. 

In  leaving  Barrancas,  our  course  to  the  south-w  est  lay  over 
the  stairs  of  brown  granulate  trap,  for  two  miles,  when  we 
descended  into  a  broken,  but  rich,  verdant,  and  beautiful 
country  ;  this  way,  however,  was  without  living  waters,  of 
which  the  heat  made  us  very  sensible,  and  by  which  we  were 
very  much  more  affected  than  in  any  part  of  our  long 
journey.  We  reached  a  hacieiida  of  good  structure  of  the 
West  India  style  about  two  o'clock,  which  we  approached 
throu^^h  open  fields  of  great  extent,  cleared  and  abounding 
with  cattle ;  the  house  stood  on  an  elevation  with  its  double 
rauf^e  of  verandah  on  its  east  front.  The  owner,  it  seems,  was 
absent ;  the  place  is  called  Siepe,  and  the  agriculture  sugar. 
The  owner  was  from  home,  and  the  house  in  charge  of  a  tall 
well- shaped  negro-orersetr.  W'e  determined  to  take  refuge 
in  the  veranda  till  the  sun's  heat  abated,  and  immediately 
put  our  mules  to  graze,  and  hung  up  our  hammocks,  while 
our  cook  collected  whatever  was  to  be  had  in  the  village  of 
huts  upon  an  adjacent  bank,  whose  front  was  to  the  north. 
A  negro- man  from  these  huts,  invited  our  attention  by  the 
proffer  of  his  services,  which  he  tendered  in  the  dialect  of  the 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  613 

British  West  Indies,  and  made  use  of  the  disposition  in 
which  he  found  us,  to  tell  us  his  story — he  was  a  native  of 
Africa,  and  carried  young  to  an  island  of  the  West  Indies, 
where  he  was  as  happy,  he  said,  as  a  man  could  be  who  was 
a  slave ;  he  thought  his  condition  bad  there,  but  here  he 
thought  his  former  state  good  by  comparison  ;  his  age  did 
not  give  him  the  benefit  of  the  republican  law,  and  his  mas- 
ter, who  had  some  }'ears  ago  under  the  Spanish  rule  trans- 
ported himself  and  sixty  others  from  the  West  Indies,  was 
seldom  there ;  and  their  hard  fortune  was  to  have  one  of 
their  own  countrymen  and  colour  as  his  overseer ;  he  had, 
he  said,  a  wife  and  several  children,  who  would  be  free — but 
for  himself,  he  thought  every  hour  of  his  life  a  miserj^,  of 
which  lie  said  he  was  tired — *'  why  do  I  toil  ? — to  me  this 
plantation  is  as  the  whole  world — and  nothing  to  hope  !" 

The  appearance  of  the  overseer,  whose  visiige,  out  of  hear- 
ing, seemed  to  say  he  knew  the  sad  story — put  the  poor 
story-teller  in  tribulation,  from  which  I  rescued  him  by  an 
affectation  of  dissatisfaction,  telling  him  to  go  about  his  bu- 
siness, we  wanted  nothing — his  wife,  however,  told  us  after- 
wards, he  understood  us,  and  sent  some  fine  bananas,  and 
a  couple  of  delicious  melons,  for  which  we  paid  in  some  of 
the  small  silver  change  of  the  country  that  was  now  no  longer 
of  use  to  us,  but  was  a  treasure  to  the  poor  girl,  who  looked 
doubting  at  the  six  or  seven  bits  on  her  hand — then  towards 
her  husband,  holding  her  open  hand  towards  him — and  then 
looking  in  our  faces,  as  if  to  say  "  Is  it  possible  you  mean  to 
give  me  all  this?" — no  empress  ever  felt  such  sensations  with 
the  wealth  of  conquered  nations  at  her  feet.  We  left  Siepe  at 
half- past  six  o'clock,  P.  M.  and  at  half- past  nine  reached 
Mahate.  Though  this  route  is  much  travelled,  the  mule- 
teers diverge  into  the  forests  of  bamboo  and  lofty  timbers. 
The  shape  of  a  road  appears  at  some  openings,  but  it  is  a  mere 
ditch,  which  contains  stagnant  waters  offensive  to  the  senses  ; 
the  part  which  represents  the  road  is  usually  a  pool,  there 


614<  VISIT  TO  COLOMllIA. 

having  been  neither  sagacity  nor  skill  to  raise  the  centre  even, 
with  the  materials  excavated  Irom  the  sides ;  by  which 
means  that  which  was  intended  to  be  marked  for  a  commo- 
dious and  clear  road,  is  lor  miles,  between  Barrancas  and 
Turbaco,  a  pestiferous  slough  of  putrescent  water,  rank  with 
decomj)osed  vegetation. 

The  character  of  our  muleteers  we  had  anticipated  from 
the  character  of  the  alcalde  at  Barrancas.  On  the  road  some 
of  their  friends  overtook  ihcm,  and  they  kindly  afforded  them 
each  a  ride  on  tiiose  mules  wliich  the  alcalde  told  us  would 
be  so  overburdened  with  our  baggage,  that  we  were  obliged 
to  hire  one  extraordinary.  They  marched  us  to  the  alcalde 
of  JVIahate  on  our  arrival,  and  having  talked  to  each  other 
aside,  the  alcalde's  deputy,  answering  to  our  constable  of 
police,  led  the  way  and  towards  his  own  house,  which,  besides 
every  interior  visible  sign  of  dirt  and  unsavory  smells,  was 
hi  such  a  climate  as  promising  of  comfort  as  the  orlop  deck 
of  a  ship  under  the  line.  I  declined  entrance,  and  required 
better  accommodations,  to  his  very  great  amusement,  and  not 
a  little  to  mine  ;  for  as,  in  such  unhelpable  cases,  it  is  best  to 
call  upon  courage  for  good  humour,  and  moreover  obtain  an 
advantage  by  not  being  angry,  I  thus  disappointed  him  who 
endeavoured  to  cheat  and  vex  me  too.  I  ordered  all  our  cara- 
van to  the  right  about,  and  determined  either  to  sleep  in  the 
street,  or  go  to  the  adjacent  forest ;  a  house  with  a  veranda  or 
corridor  in  front  presenting  itself,  I  knocked  and  asked  per- 
mission to  hang  our  hammocks  inside  the  corridor  ;  but  our 
disappointed  minister  of  police  loudly  protested  to  the  person 
inside,  we  should  have  no  room  there,  as  we  had  refused  the 
use  of  his  house — in  a  village,  the  constable  is  not  a  small  cha- 
racter— the  woman  knew  it.  Mahate  had  been  conflagrated, 
as  I  learned  from  a  lady  of  the  place,  about  six  months  before, 
by  a  sunbeam  ;  and  few  houses  had  escaped ;  many  were  there- 
fore barely  roofed  and  open  at  the  sides.  It  resembled  the  Bo- 
dega at  Honda ;  but,  as  it  belonged  to  somebody,  and  1  had 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  615 

resolved  not  to  be  tricked  out  of  a  lodging  by  this  local  mi- 
nister of  malignit}',  I  entered  close  to  the  rear,  where  I  found 
some  respectable-looking  females,  and  feeling  as  I  always 
feel  at  the  sight  of  agreeable  women,  I  addressed  them  as 
they  should  be  addressed,  beautiful  or  ugly,  with  courtesy — 
said  I  was  a  traveller,  and  wanted  only  the  permission  to 
hang  up  my  hammock  in  the  unfinished  house ;  they  all 
rose — it  was  granted  as  soon  as  spoken,  and  any  thing  in 
the  house  was  perfectly  at  the  disposal  of  the  Senor.  I  asked 
for  some  milk,  only  to  have  the  pleasure  of  paying  for  it, 
but  there  was  none  to  be  had  at  that  late  hour ;  some  fruit 
they  produced  in  a  neat  basket  on  the  instant,  but  no 
payment  would  be  received  ;  it  was  a  sufficient  pleasure 
that  they  were  acceptable,  and  without  having  asked  for  wa- 
ter, a  handsome  Lancashire  pitcher  made  its  appearance  with 
water,  which  was  so  cool  and  fine,  that  it  seemed  to  have 
passed  through  an  ice  filtre. 

Our  hammocks  were  soon  up,  and^  by  means  of  certain 
bamboos  and  other  apparatus  of  rancheria  architecture,  we 
had  formed  our  lines  of  contravallation  and  circumvallation, 
and  lodged  under  the  same  roof  with  our  mules.  We  were 
about  to  cast  away  all  our  cares,  when  the  minister  of  mis- 
chief appeared  jabbering  in  a  villanous  style ;  but  there  was 
no  doing  any  thing  with  him  in  the  way  of  talking,  for  the 
parrots  at  Merida  were  gentle  of  discourse  compared  with 
him.  A  pair  of  pistols  happened  to  be  produced,  and  being 
unloaded,  a  priming  from  a  cartridge  in  the  holster  of  the 
saddle  offered  me  an  opportunity  of  making  a  flash  in  the 
pan ;  if  a  culverin  had  exploded,  the  effect  could  not  have 
been  better ;  how  he  went  off  1  can  only  conjecture,  for  we 
saw  nor  heard  of  him  any  more.  A  better  lodging-place 
could  not  have  been  selected  for  the  liberator  had  he  been 
there;  and,  no  doubt,  the  deputy  alcalde,  who  had  calcu- 
lated on  making  only  perhaps  half  a  dozen  reals,  and  took  it 
to  heart  that  we  should  seek  our  own  comfort,  would  have 


8l6  VISIT  TO  COLOMltlA. 

been  mortified  more,  if  he  knew  timt  the  good  lady  had  sent 
us  a  bottle  of  good  sweet  wine  before  we  went  to  sleep,  and 
that  we  slept  as  soundly  as  good  health  fatigued  is  apt  to  do. 
We  resolved  to  i)rorit  of  our  past  day's  scorching,  to  be 
up  and  moving  bdore  the  sun's  appearance,  and  pushed  on 
boldly  over  flat  Be  ngal-like  plains  surrounded  by  palms  and 
plantains,  bamboos,  and  the  clatter  of  flocks  of  paroqueets. 
No  halting  place  presenting  itself  till  hall"  past  ten  o'clock, 
when  we  reached  Arjona,  a  very  poor  place,  and  according 
to  appearance  has  a  considerable  dependance  on  smuggling. 
A  slight  rain  had  commenced,  and  seeing  a  sentinel  on  post 
at  a  spacious  gate,  I  rode  up,  and  aware  that  military  men 
respect  superior  orders,  called  for  the  officer  of  the  guard, 
who  made  his  appearance  ;  a  fme  young  man,  who  caused 
our  mules  to  be  placed  under  shelter,  and  tendered  any  ser- 
vices. My  hammock  was  hung  up  in  the  guard- room,  and 
as  more  than  seven  hours  ride  had  sharpened  our  appetites, 
we  had  our  chocolate,  and  some  fine  fruit  of  the  place.  The 
young  officer  was  intelligent  and  inquisitive,  and  I  was  not 
backward  to  say  all  I  could  to  contribute  information,  such 
as  I  believed  to  be  new  to  him,  and  we  parted  w'lih  a  good 
opinion  of  each  other  at  three  o'clock.  A  servant  of  the  offi- 
cer, one  of  those  singularities  which  all  countries  and  wars 
produce,  during  our  halt,  amused  and  obliged  us,  and  nar- 
rated his  adventures  with  extreme  humour;  whether  real  or 
invented  was  not  material,  they  produced  the  effect  intended ; 
he  was  another  Guzmaji  d\Ujarache<,  according  to  his  own 
narration  ;  he  made  us  laugh  ;  and  he  discovered,  that  all  men 
approaching  the  sea- coast  for  foreign  countries,  must  have 
little  things  half  worn  of  no  value  to  them,  but  which 
might  be  useful  to  poor  fellows  who  remain  in  the  country, 
and  had  no  money  to  buy  better.  He  saw  we  were  moved 
to  merriment,  and  archly  asked,  "  if  he  had  not  hit  the  bull 
in  the  eye  ?" — We  gave  him  some  half- worn-out  shoes,  a 
broken-elbowed  jacket  or  two,  and  some  other  things,  which, 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  617 

being  of  no  value  to  us,  he  said  would,  by  what  he  could 
wear  and  what  he  could  sell,  set  him  up  for  a  month  or  two. 

We  had  to  pass  the  digue  or  canal,  in  our  route  ot  the 
morning ;  there  is  but  a  very  slight  descent  to  its  course  ; 
the  appearance  of  the  water  was  a  foul  green,  and  the  stench 
was  pestilential ;  a  toll  had  been  established  at  this  place,  at 
the  period  when  it  was  proposed  to  be  improved.  A  person, 
who  might  well  have  passed  for  a  deputy  of  Charon,  appear- 
ed in  a  canoe,  which,  though  adapted  to  the  transport  of 
another  individual,  made  way  through  this  foul  Cocytus  or 
Styx, — for  of  both  it  bore  resemblance, — with  much  diffi- 
culty, stirring  up  the  filth  and  mud  through  which  it 
pushed.  Our  muleteers  appeared  loath  to  pass  before  us, 
but  our  servant  George,  who  hud  travelled  that  way  often, 
plunged  into  the  pool,  and  crossed  without  wetting  the  girths 
of  his  mule,  and  we  followed.  Poor  Charon's  deputy  was 
disconsolate  ;  he  demanded  two  reals  for  each  mule,  and  as 
much  for  each  passenger.  I  gave  him  two  reals.  Death 
seemed  to  have  taken  the  gugge  of  his  existence,  yet,  on  cros- 
sing, in  a  cottage,  on  the  very  verge  of  this  pestiferous  iX)ol, 
we  found  his  wife,  lovely  as  the  daughter  of  Oceanus,  who  as- 
sisted Jupiter  in  his  war  with  the  Titans,  a  fine  woman,  in 
perfect  bloom  of  life,  not  attended  by  Hydra^  but  with  a  little 
Cupid  at  her  bosom,  in  all  the  roundness  and  fioridity  of 
health.  She  had  a  little  of  the  Styx  in  her  tongue  at  least,  for 
she  belabored  us  with  that  weapon  with  as  much  angry 
energy,  as  the  daughter  of  Oceanus  had  berated  the  chief  of 
gods  and  men. 

We  disappeared  in  the  forests,  which  led  along  the  north 
margin  of  the  digue  for  two  miles,  where  it  presents  a  bason  of 
three  hundred  yards  in  breadth,  the  whole  length  of  the  vision, 
but  stagnant  and  offensive.  This  is  susceptible  of  being  made 
a  canal  of  very  great  importance,  but  the  levying  of  a  toll 
upon  passengers  and  merchandize,  where  no  manner  of 
service  is  rendered,  ought  not  to  have  survived  the  alcavala ; 

78 


618  VISIT  TO   COLOMBIA. 

it  is  indeed  a  rcproiich  to  the  government  that  permits  it,  and 
the  greater  reproach  from  the  offensiveness  of  the  passage, 
for  riding  or  wading  across,  which  the  passenger  has  to  pay. 
The  triviahty  of  the  imposition  matters  not,  the  levy  is  a 
tolerated  fraud,  which  may  be  pleaded  in  precedent  for  any 
other  exaction. 

The  road  after  leaving  Arjona,  and  thence  to  Turbaco, 
was  throughout  good.  It  led  through  devious  ways  and 
very  deep  forests,  parts  of  which  had  been  recently  felled  on 
each  side  of  the  road  for  several  miles  bclore  ascending  the 
ridge  that  leads  to  Turbaco.  We  entered  this  delightful 
town  about  five  o'clock,  by  a  gentle  ascent,  and  found  the 
height,  broad  and  sloping,  covered  wiili  a  delicate  green 
turf  above  tiie  summits  of  the  surrounding  forests,  which  fil- 
led the  foot  of  the  high  ground  in  every  direction.  The 
place  was  laid  out  in  spacious  streets  of  forty  feet  broad,  as 
usual  intersected  at  right  angles.  The  houses  were  not 
continuous,  though  on  the  line  of  the  street — all  of  one  sto- 
ry, but  that  lofty  and  well  thatched — having  a  broad  veran- 
dah in  front,  to  which  it  was  necessary  to  ascend  one  or  two 
steps  from  the  street.  The  alcalde  here  was  an  obliging 
man,  he  rode  up  from  the  extreme  end  of  the  town  to  meet 
us,  and  conducted  us  to  a  commodious  house,  left  a  servant 
to  provide  us  whatever  we  stood  in  need  of,  and  who  obtained 
for  us  good  wheaten  bread  and  fresh  milk.  This  delightful 
town  of  Turbaco  is  about  fifteen  or  sixteen  miles  from  Car- 
tagena, and  is  occupied  by  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  com- 
modious houses  of  one  story,  neat  and  clean  within  and 
without,  and  the  inhabitants  polished,  courteous,  and  obli- 
ging.  Many  families  of  Cartagena  have  establishments 
here,  to  which  they  retire  at  the  warm  season  of  the  year, 
or  at  other  times,  to  recreate  or  to  recruit  health.  This  place 
is  said  to  have,  at  one  period,  had  a  population  of  200,000 
Indians — indeed  the  elevated  ground  would  admit  of  5000 
houses  without  inconniioding  any — and  with  spacious  gar- 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA.  619 

den  and  pasture  room  for  all  that  is  necessary  to  human 
comfort ;  and  the  most  delicious  springs  are  every  where 
around.  We  had  heard  of  Los  Volcanitos  of  Turbaco, 
uhich  are  at  five  miles  distance  from  this  place,  and  on 
ground  of  greater  elevation.  In  a  swamp  of  some  extent, 
upon  this  high  ground,  several  irregular  hillocks  rise  to  the 
height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  conical  in  form,  and  represent- 
ed as  having  a  bason  at  the  summit  filled  with  water,  which 
sends  forth  small  flashes  of  inflamed  gas,  at  unequal  intervals. 
We  had  not  time  to  see  and  speak  for  ourselves  of  these 
Volcanitos ;  the  stories  we  heard  are  not  such  as  we  could 
warrant ;  and  what  is  here  given  is  only  from  the  casual  in- 
formation of  others. 

Turbaco  is  memorable  in  the  history  of  this  part  of  the 
country  in  different  ages.  It  was  here  that  Alonzo  Ojeda, 
in]l610,  put  the  Indians  to  the  rout.  Heredia,  another  Span- 
ish commander,  fought  some  battles  here,  and  burnt  the  city 
to  the  ground,  since  which  time  the  place  has  been  aban- 
doned by  the  natives.  Here  Morillo  fixed  his  head-quarters 
on  11th  June,  1815,  and  attacked  La  Popa  defended  by  Col. 
Soublcttc;  here  it  was  that  Bolivar  established  his  head 
quarters  first,  when  the  federal  spirit  which  set  the  provinces 
in  hostility  to  each  other,  induced  Castillo  to  refuse  co-opera- 
tion with  Bolivar  ;  here  it  was,  that  while  Morillo  was  alluring 
him  by  a  truce  and  a  compromise,  Bolivar  prepared  the  way 
for  the  final  subjection  of  Cartagena. 

On  the  20th  of  May,  before  dawn,  we  were  on  our  route 
to  Cartagena  ;  the  night  was  cool  and  delightful,  and  the 
line  a  continued  descent,  but  very  gradual.  Much  more 
labour  has  been  bestowed  in  rendering  this  passage  com- 
modious than  any  I  had  seen.  The  hills,  where  they  pre- 
sented inequalities,  have  been  cut  down,  to  pursue  the  incli- 
nation of  the  line  in  a  graduation  uniform  and  regular.  But, 
like  all  things  begun  by  the  Spaniards,  they  are  still  undone, 
or  only  half  done  :  this  road,  however,  admits  of  a  wheel 
carriage  all  the  way,  but  there  are  some  parts  which  will 


620  VISIT   TO   COLOMIllA. 

admit  no  more  tlian  one  The  only  wheel  carriages  in  the 
republic,  are  a  few  litavy-ljuilt  machines,  called  volantcs, 
with  heavy  shafts  and  bodies ;  l)ut  which  w ill  disappear, 
and  their  place  be  supplied  throughout  the  republic,  when- 
ever  the  government  begins  to  execute  the  principles  in 
which  they  ccjncurred  in  1823.  Roads  alone  are  now  the 
desiderata  ol  the  republic.  With  good  roads  its  commerce 
would  quadruple  every  year,  for  a  century  of  years,  the  pro- 
duct oi  the  year  preceding.  The  world  is  still  insensible  of 
the  resources  of  Colombia. 

We  passed  the  village  ofBenavides  amidst  hedges  of  cot- 
ton-trees, w  hose  ripe  and  unpicked  fleeces  were  flaring  in  the 
breeze,  and  fringing  the  flowering  shrubs  with  every  tint  and 
hue.  The  village  of  Ternera,  on  our  right  still  farther  on,  had 
something  of  the  appearance  of  a  military  hamlet,  such  as  arc 
every  where  seen  adjacent  to  large  garrisons ;  w  here  the  old 
veteran  finds  a  nurse,  the  idler  a  lurking  place  ;  whence  the 
morning's  parade  of  the  garrison,  and  the  Sunday  inspection, 
exhibits  the  iiandy-work  of  soapand  starch,  and  the  smooth- 
ing iron  of  the  village  washerwomen,  whom  we  could  discern 
Avith  their  elbows  in  the  suds  narrating  the  battles  of  their 
lovers,  or  chaunting  an  eulogistic  canta  or  an  aria  on  Bolivar. 

As  my  famil}'  had  been  here  some  time,  old  friends  were 
on  the  watch,  as  we  descended  the  hill  from  which  the  sea 
and  the  Popa  of  Carthagena  first  broke  upon  us,  and  finally 
the  exquisite  picture  of  the  city,  its  splendid  bason  of  Tosca, 
and  the  crowd  of  ships  and  objects  which  occupy  the  space 
of  vision  all  around.  The  figure  I  presented  in  a  black  silk 
coat,  a  broad-leafed  hat  o^  native  manufacture,  which  I  had 
worn  daily  on  the  road  since  I  left  Caracas,  military  boots, 
and  linen  very  much  in  need  of  the  laundress,  whose  snowy 
handy. works  I  had  but  just  past.  My  friend  Major  Brush 
scarcely  recognised  my  face  under  the  the  painting  of  sun- 
shine and  the  gro\\th  of  beard.  We  entered  this  justly  ce- 
lebrated and  beautiful  city,  and  I  found  my  family  perfectly 
at  home. 


VISIT  TO  COLOMBIA,  621 

The  entrance  to  Cartagena  leaves  the  celebrated  mountain 
called  La  Popa  on  the  right ;  and  about  midway  between  La 
Popa  and  the  east  face  of  the  works,  is  St.  Lazare,  a  low 
hill,  on  which  was  erected  originally  an  hospital,  and  more 
recently  a  military  work,  which  I  understood  to  be  called  the 
castle  of  St.  Philip ;  it  was  originally  left  unoccupied,  but  it 
was  in  time  found  to  command  the  entire  rear  of  Cartagena ; 
and  is  now  rendered  very  strong.  The  face  of  Cartagena  as 
approached  on  this  side  is  by  much  the  most  masterly  part  of 
the  military  works  ;  it  is  not  only  beautiful  as  a  spectacle,  but 
admirable  for  its  military  architecture  and  efficiency;  its  force, 
well  manned  and  served,  is  such  as  to  forbid  all  approach  on 
that  side  :  the  works  on  other  parts,  particularly  on  the  sea 
face,  are  inferior  in  science  and  in  appearance. 

The  baggage  of  travellers  is  examined  on  passing  the  first 
barrier.  Little  incidents  illustrate  manners  and  impressions. 
I  rode  along  with  my  friends  towards  the  place  I  was  to 
lodge  ;  the  servant  remained  with  the  baggage,  but  I  had  the 
keys ;  George  hallooed  loudly  after  me,  "  Colonel !  colonel  !'*^ 
I  turned  about,  and  when  I  reached  the  custom-house 
the  officer  apologised,  and  said  he  did  not  understand  I  was 
colonel,  or  my  baggage  should  not  have  been  stopped  a  mo- 
ment. The  man's  eyes  were  not  to  be  reproached,  for  my 
figure  as  I  passed  him  looked  like  any  thing  but  a  colonel. 
The  point  most  remarkable  is  the  deference  paid  to  the  mi- 
litary rank. 

I  was  lodged  in  the  house  of  my  friend,  W.  D.  Robinson, ' 
who  was  then  absent  at  Santa   Marta,   but  who  returned 
before  my  departure.     Here  I  found  my  family  party. 

The  delay  waiting  for  a  passage  affiarded  full  opportunities 
to  examine  this  splendid  and  charmingly-situated  city.  The 
works  of  Cartagena  have  been  described  so  frequently,  that 
little  could  be  added,  unless  that  the  impressions  of  its  strength 
altogether  appeared  to  me  much  less  after  the  view  than  be- 
fore.    The  Bay,  fourteen  miles  in  length,  is  beautiful,  but  I 


622  VISIT  TO  COLUMlllA. 

apprehend  the  Spaniards,  by  stoppini^  up  tlie  Jiocca  Grande  y 
under  the  notion  of  rendering  the  plaee  stronger  by  leaving 
the  liucca  C/iica  alone  open  to  navigation,  have  prepared  the 
way  for  closing  up  a  considerable  part  of  the  bason.  The 
light  tide  of  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  flows  now  tiirough  the 
bay  at  ebb  and  flood  ;  but  a  strong  current  rushed  through 
the  Bocca  Grande^  which  required  a  labour  of  thirty  years 
to  close  it  up. 

The  residence  at  Cartagena  was  a  constant  entertainment, 
and  poor  Robinson  appeared  to  derive  relief  from  disease, 
by  administering  to  our  enjoyments.  Much  injustice  has 
been  done,  and  mere  justice  would  be  sufficient  to  render  the 
memory  of  this  man,  who  lately  died  at  Caracas,  respected 
by  every  good  heart.  An  occasion  may  yet  present  itself 
to  ofler  that  tribute  to  this  worthy  man. 

We  remained  till  June,  and  the  incidents  of  the  voyage 
being  only  such  as  arc  common,  we  landed  at  New  York 
quarantine  ground  the  fourth  of  July. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 

FUNDAMENTAL  LAW 

OK  THE 

REPUBLIC    OF   COLOMBIA. 

THE  SovereigTi  Cong^ress  of  Venezuela,  whose  authority  has  been  voluntarily 
i-eco^nized  by  the  people  of  New  Greiiaila,  liberated  by  the  arms  of  the  republic, 
considering — 

1.  That  the  Provinces  of  Venezuela  and  New  Grenada,  united  in  a  single  re- 
public, possess  all  the  requisites  for  attaining  the  highest  degree  of  power  and 
prosperity  : 

2.  That  if  formed  into  distinct  republics,  and  even  united  by  the  closest  ties, 
far  from  profiling  by  their  great  advantages,  they  could,  with  difficulty,  give  sta- 
bility to,  and  command  respect  for,  their  sovereignty  : 

3.  That  these  truths,  bcmg  <leep!y  impressed  on  tlie  minds  of  all  men  of  su- 
perior talents  and  sound  patriotism,  have  determined  tiie  governments  of  the 
two  Itepublic3  to  agree  upon  their  Union,  hitherto  obstructed  by  the  vicissitudes 
of  war  : 

Whebefohe,  actuated  l)y  necessity  and  mutual  interest,  and  conforming  to  the 
report  of  a  Special  Commitlec  of  Deputies  from  New  Grenada  ami  \'enezucla. 

In  tlie  name,  and  under  the  protection  of  the  Almighty,  tlicy  have  decreed, 
and  do  hereby  decree,  the  following  Fundamentul  Lu-w  of  tlie  itcpublic  of  Co- 
lombia : 

A»T.  1.  The  Republics  of  Venezuela  and  New  Grenada  are  henceforth  united 
in  one,  under  the  glorious  title  of  the  Kepublic  of  Colombia  : 

2.  Its  territory  shall  comprehend  the  former  Captain-Generalship  of  Venezu- 
ela and  tite  Viccroyalty  of  New  Grenada,  comprehending  an  extent  of  a  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  thousand  square  leagues,  the  precise  limits  whereof  shall  be 
fixeil  hereafter. 

3.  Tbe  debts  contracted  separately  by  the  two  Republics,  are  hereby  consoli- 
dated as  a  national  debt  of  Culombin,  for  [the  payment  of  which  all  the  property 
of  tlie  state  is  pledged",  and  the  most  productive  branches  of  the  public  revenue 
shall  be  appropriated. 

4.  The  Kxecullve  power  of  the  Republic  8h.ill  be  vested  in  a  President,  and, 
in  case  of  v-acaiicy,  by  a  Vice-President,  both  to  be  provisionally  appointed  by 
the  present  Congress. 

5.  'ihe  Republic  of  Colombia  shall  be  {pro  tern.)  divided  into  the  three  great 
Departments  of  Venezuela,  Quito,  and  Cundinamarca,  comprising  the  Provinces 
of  New  Grenada,  which  denomination  is  henceforth  abolished  ;  and  their  Capitals 
bliall  be  the  cities  of  Caracas,  Quito,  and  Bogota,  the  adjunct  Santa  F6  being 
annulled. 

6.  Each  Department  shall  have  a  Superior  Administration,  with  a  chief,  to  be 
appointed  for  the  present  by  the  Congress,  and  entitled  a  Vice-President. 

7.  A  new  city,  to  be  called  Rohvar,  in  honour  of  the  assertor  of  the  public  li- 
berty, shall  be  the  Capital  of  the  Republic  of  Colombia.  Its  plan  and  situation 
to  be  fixed  on  by  the  first  General  Cong^ress.  upon  the  principle  of  adapting  it 


624  APPENDIX. 

to  the  cxig-encies  of  tlic  tlipce  departments,  and  to  the  future  grandeur  to  which 
iiiiture  lias  desiined  this  opulcnl  country. 

8.  The  General  Coiij^ress  ot Colomhia  sliall  assemble,  on  the  first  day  of  Janu- 
ary, 1821,  in  the  town  of  Uosmio  <lr  ('ucuta,  which,  from  various  circumstances, 
is  considered  the  most  eh^ihle  situation.  It  shall  he  convened  by  the  President 
of  the  Itepuhlic,  on  the  first  day  of  Jainiary,  1S2(J,  who  shall  communicate  such 
regulations  concerning  elections  as  may  be  formed  by  a  bpecial  committee,  and 
approved  by  the  present  Congress. 

9.  The  Constitution  of  the  Uepiihhc  of  Colombia  shall  he  formed  by  the  Ge- 
neral Congress  ;  to  which  shall  he  submitted,  in  liie  form  of  a  plan,  the  Cunstilu. 
lion  decried  by  the  present  Congress,  which,  together  with  the  laws  enacted  by 
that  body,  shall  be  provisionally  tarried  into  execution. 

10.  The  arms  and  flag  of  Colombia  shall  be  determined  ofi  by  the  General 
Congress,  and  in  the  mean  time  those  of  Venezuela,  being  most  known,  shall 
continue  to  be  used. 

11.  The  present  Congress  shall  adjourn  on  the  15th  January,  1820,  after  which 
the  new  elections  to  the  General  (Jongress  of  Colombia  shall  be  made. 

12.  A  committee  of  six  members  and  a  President  shall  replace  the  Congress, 
whose  particular  powers  and  duties  siiall  be  regulated  by  a  decree. 

13.  The  Uepublic  of  Colombia  shall  be  solemnly  proclaimed  throughout  the 
towns  and  armies,  accompanied  by  public  festivals  and  rejoicings,  and  this  cere- 
mony shall  take  place  in  the  Capital  on  the  25ih  of  the  present  month,  in  com- 
memoration of  the  birth  of  the  Saviour  of  the  M  orld,  through  whose  especial  fa- 
vour this  wished-for  union,  regenerating  the  state,  has  been  obtained. 

14.  The  anniversary  of  this  political  regeneration  shall  be  perpetually  cele- 
brated with  the  solemnities  ot  a  national  festival,  at  which,  in  imitation  of  the 
Oli/mfiia,  premiums  shall  be  adjudged  to  citizens  distinguished  by  their  virtues 
and  their  talents. 

The  present  fundamental  law  of  the  Republic  of  Colombia  shall  be  solemnly 
promulgated  throughout  the  towns  and  armies,  inscribed  on  all  the  public  re- 
cords, and  deposited  in  all  the  archives  of  societies,  municipahties,  ana  corpora- 
tions, both  clerical  and  secular. 

Given  at  the  Palace  of  the  Sovereign  Congress  of  Venezuela,  in  the  city  of 
St.  Thomas  de  Angostura,  on  the  11th  day  of  December,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord 
1819,  ninth  of  Independence. 

Frarcisco  Autokio  Zea,  PresiJmt  of  the  Congrets. 
Juan  German  Roscio,  Antonio  M.  Briceno,  Ignacio  Munoz, 

Manuel  Sedeno,  Eusebio  Afanador,  Unofre  liazalo, 

Juan  Martinez,  Francisco  Conde,  Domingo  Alzuru, 

Jose  Espana,  Diego  Bautista  Urbaneja,   Jose  Tomas  Machado, 

I.uis  Tomas  Poraza,  Juan  Vincentc  Cardoso,      lUmon  Garcia  Oadiz, 

Diego  dc  Vallcnilia,  Deputy  and  Secretari 


APPENDIX.  625 

No.  II. 

FUNDAMENTAL  LAW 

OF  THE 

UNION  OF  THE  PEOPLE  OF  COLOMBIA. 

We  the  Representatives  of  the  People  of  New  Granada  and  Venezeula,  in  ge- 
neral congress  assembled, 

Having  carefully  considered  the  fundamental  law  of  the  Republic  of  Colombia, 
passed  by  the  Congress  of  Venezuela,  at  tl)e  city  of  St  Thomas  of  Angostu- 
ra, on  the  iZth  day  of  December,  A.  D.  1819,  are  of  opinion, 

1.  That  united  in  one  republic,  the  provinces  of  Venezuela,  and  New  Grana- 
da, possess  all  the  means  and  faculties  necessary  to  place  them  in  the  most  ele- 
vated state  of  power  and  prosperity. 

2.  That  constituted  into  separate  republics,  however  closely  bound  by  the  ties 
of  union,  they  would  find  it  difficult  to  give  stability  or  induce  respect  for 
their  sovereignty. 

3.  That,  deeply  penetrated  by  these  advantages,  all  men  of  superior  intelli- 
gence, and  distinguished  patriotism,  have  declared,  that  tlie  governments  of 
the  two  republics  should  form  an  union,  which  the  vicissitudes  of  war  have  hi- 
therto prevented. 

4.  Finally,  that  the  same  considerations  of  reciprocal  interest,  and  a  necessity 
most  manifest,  had  made  it  obligatory  on  the  Congress  of  Venezuela,  to  antici. 
pate  this  measure,  which  has  been  proclaimed  in  the  most  authorotative  manner, 
by  the  unanimous  votes  of  tlie  people  of  both  countries. 

In  the  name,  and  under  the  auspices  of  the  Supreme  being,  they  have  decreed, 
and  do  hereby  derrf  ^ ,  the  solemn  ratification  of  the  Fundumental  Law  of 
the  Republic  of  Colombia,  wliirh  ha<j  hec-n  before  mentioned,  in  the  follow- 
ing manner : 

Art.  I.  The  people  of  New  Granada  and  Venezuela,  being  united  in  one  na- 
tional body,  founded  on  a  compact,  which  determines,  that  the  government  is 
now,  and  shall  for  ever  be,  popular  and  representative. 

Art.  II.  This  new  nation  shall  be  known,  and  denominated,  by  the  title  of  the 
Republic  of  Colombia. 

Art.  HI.  The  Colombian  nation  is,  and  shall  for  ever  be,  irrevocably  free  and 
independent  of  the  Spanish  monarchy,  and  of  every  oth<^r  foreign  power  or 
domination  ;  nor  shall  it  ever  be  the  patrimony  of  anj  family  or  person. 

Art.  IV.  The  supreme  national  power  shall  always  be  separately  exercised, 
and  divided  into  legislative,  executive,  and  juridical. 

Art.  V.  The  territorj'  of  the  Republic  of  Colombia,  shall  comprehend  all  that 
was  within  the  limits  of  the  ancient  Captain-generalship  of  Venezuela,  and  the 
Viceroyalty  of  New  Granada ;  but  reserving  for  a  more  suitable  time  their  pre- 
cise demarcation. 

Art.  VI.  For  the  more  advantageous  administration  of  the  Repubhc,  its  terri- 
tory shall  for  the  present  be  divided  into  six  or  more  departments,  each  bearing 
a  particular  name,  with  a  subordmatc  administration  dependant  on  the  national 
government. 

Art.  VII.  The  present  Congress  of  Colombia,  shall  form  the  Constitution  of 
the  Republic,  in  conformity  with  the  principles  here  expressed,  upon  those 
liberal  principles  which  have  been  consecrated  by  the  wise  practice  of  other 
free  nations. 

Art.  VIII.  They  recognize  in  solidum,  as  the  national  debt  of  Colombia,  all  the 
debts  which  the  two  people  have  separately  contracted;  and  for  which  they 
make  responsible  all  the  property  of  the  Republic. 

79 


626 


AI'P£NUIX. 


Art.  IX.  The  Congress  shall,  in  the  itiwle  that  may  he  found  convenient,  ap- 
propriate the  bruiichcii  most  productive  of  the  public  revenue,  the  taxes,  and 
shall  criate  a  special  siiikiii^^  iiiiid  lor  the  redoniplion  of  the  principal,  and  nay- 
iiiff  the  interest  of  the  public  debt,  duly  verified  and  liquidatetl  acconhng  to  law. 

All.  X.  In  more  favourable  circumstances,  there  shall  be  erected  a  new  city, 
with  the  name  of  the  Libertador  Hulivau,  which  shall  be  the  Cupilal  of  iUe  lie- 
public  of  Colombia.  Its  plan  and  site  shall  be  determined  by  ('ongress,  founded 
on  the  principle  of  accommodation  to  convenience  of  tlie  different  parts  of  this 
vast  territory,  and  the  grandeur  to  which  this  country  isdestine«l  by  nature. 

Art.  \l.  Meanwhile,  until  Congress  shall  estabUsh  the  distinctive  insignia,  and 
tile  fliit;-  of  (;olombia,  the  actual  nags  of  New  Granada  and  Venezuela  shall  be 
contiiuied  in  use. 

Art.  XII.  'ilie  ratification  of  the  establishment  of  the  Colombian  Republic, 
and  the  publication  of  the  constitution,  sliall  be  celebrated  in  the  towns  and  in 
the  armies,  with  festi\ity,  and  public  rejoicings,  making  known,  in  all  places,  tiic 
solemnity  of  the  day  on  which  the  constitution  is  promulgated. 

Art.  XIII.  Tliere  shall  i)e  perpetually  a  national  festival,  for  three  days  in 
each  year,  upon  wiiich  sliall  be  celebrated  the  .i7iniversmt/ — 

1.  Of  the  emancifiiition  and  inilrftrnUrun'  of  the  people  of  Colombia. 

2.  The  union  in  one  republic,  and  the  estciblinhment  of  the  Constitution. 

3.  To  those  great  iviuntp/m  and  splendid  vicloiiit,  by  which  we  have  con- 
(jueved  and  Hecurtd  tlicse  blessings. 

Art  XIV.  'Ihis  national  lesiival  shall  be  celel)rated  every  year,  on  the  25th 
~6th  and  2rtli  of  December,  C(mscrraling  each  day  to  the  special  remembrance 
of  one  of  tho.sc  three  glorious  causes,  and  in  jiaiticular,  to  that  of  the  virtuet, 
the  intelligence,  and  the    fcrvices  rendered  to  the  country. 

The  present  fundamental  law  of  the  union  of  the  people  of  Colombia,  shall  be 
solemnly  promulgated  in  the  towns,  and  In  the  armies,  inscribed  on  the  public 
registers,  and  deposited  in  all  the  archives  of  the  cabildos  and  corporations,  civil 
and  ecclesiastical,  and  shall  be  communicated  to  the  supreme  executive  power 
by  a  special  deputation. 

Done  in  the  palace  of  the  g-encral  congress  of  Colombia,  in  the  town  of  Rotario 
de  Cucuta,  the  12th  .Inly,  A.  1).  IK.^O,  »u/lftli  \  oar  of  Independence, 

JOSF.  Kl.NAriO  MARQUES,  President. 
AxToMo  M.  Bnn'CNo,  Vice  President. 

Manuel  M.  Quijano, 
Casimiro  Calvo, 
Carlos  .Mvarez, 
.'uan  II.  F^steves, 
Bernardino  Tovar, 
l.ouis  Ignacio  Mcndo/a, 
Jose  Maimel  Ristrcpo, 
.Tost  Joaquin  Borrero, 
Vincente  Azuero, 
Domingo  B.  Brlceno, 
Jose  Cabrel  de  Alcala, 
Francisco  Gomez, 
Miguel  Pena, 
Fernando  Pefialver, 
Josc  M.  Hinestrosa, 
Ramon  Ignacio  Mendez, 
Joaquin  Ferandozal  Soto,    Pacifico  Jaime, 

The  Deputy  and  Secretary,   Miguel  Saxtamaria. 
The  Deputy  and  Secretary,  Frascisco  Soto. 

This  instrument  was  further  signed  by  the  ministers  of  the  interior,  and  the 
Vice  President,  St.  Aiider— and  so  promulgcJ—tlie  Constitution  being  formed 
in  conformitv  thereto. 


Felix  Restrepo, 
Jose  Cornelius  Vallacia, 
Fran,  de  Orbegogo, 
Lorenzo  St.  Ander, 
Andres  Rojas, 
Gabriel  Briceno, 
Jos6    Prudtncia  I.an. . 
Miguel  Tobar, 
Jose  A.  Mendoza, 
Sinforoso  Mutis, 
lldefonso  Mendez, 
Vincente  Borrero, 
Mariano  Escobar, 
Diego  B.  Urbaneja, 
Francisco  Condc, 
Cerbellon  Urbina, 
Jofie  Ignacio  Balbucn.i, 


Pedro  F.  Carbajal, 
Miguel  Ibanez, 
Diego  F.  Gomez, 
Jose  Antonio  V'anez, 
Jose  Antonio  Paredcs, 
Joaquin  Plata, 
Francisco  Josc  Olero, 
Salvador  Camacho, 
Nic.  Ballen  de  Guzman 
Josc  Felix  Blanco, 
Miguel  de  Zarraga, 
Pedro  Gual, 
Alejandro  Osorio, 
Policarpo  Uricoichea. 
Manuel  Reniles, 
Juan  Ronderos, 


ITINERARIES. 


It  must  be  premised,  that  exactness  or  accuracy  is  not  to  be  expected  in  any 
of  these  itineraries;  tliev  are  mostly  measured  by  time.  The  first  itinerary  is 
computed  from  the  space  overwhicli  a  mule  is  supposed  to  travel  in  a  given  time. 
But  as  the  diflerence  between  a  road  on  a  plain  and  a  road  on  an  ascent  differs 
materially,  and  both  from  a  descendin}^  road,  there  can  be  no  uniformity  as  to 
time  and  space  in  the  passaj^e  of  such  routes.  A  like  diflerence  will  be  found 
in  the  condition  of  different  mules,  and  of  tlic  same  mules  in  changes  of  temper- 
ature ;  the  ordinary  journey  of  the  mules  procured  from  the  alcaldes  on  the  road, 
is  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  a  day,  but  twenty-five  is  most  frequent ;  though  we 
have  travelled  forty  miles  of  a  day,  availing  ourselves  of  the  cool  serenity  of  the 
moonlight  nights.  Where  leagues  arc  expressed,  the  leagues  are  not  the  same 
in  different  parts  of  the  country — being  in  some  cases  leagues  of  5000  geometri- 
cal paces,  leagues  of  Burgos,  leagues  of  Castile,  French,  Italian,  or  geographical 
leagues  of  twenty  or  twenty -five  to  the  degree  ;  so  that  they  are  to  be  considered 
only  as  approximations,  upon  which  scarcely  two  travellers  agree.  It  was  given 
me  as  a  rule  for  the  Itinerary  of  the  Magdalena,  to  deduct  one  mile  out  of  forty, 
which  would  bring  Spanish  leagues  to  an  equal  quantity  ;  but  the  rule  would  not 
work — tlie  number  of  leagues  on  that  itinerary  1  think  excessive. 


No.  I.  The  first,  entitled  "  Demonstracion  de  este  Viaje,"  &c.  is  the  Itinerary 
of  Fadre  Madrigada,  canon  of  Chili,  when  sent  on  a  secret  mission 
from  Bogota  in  1812. 

No.  II.  Itinerary  on  the  return  of  the  Minister  on  a  new  and  untravelled  route, 
by  the  Meta  river. 

No.  III.  Colonel  Acosta's  Itinerary  from  Caracas  to  Bogota. 

No.  IV.  Do.  do.  from  Bogota  to  Carthagena. 

No.  V.  Itinerary  from  Bogota  to  Carthag'ena,  by  an  Officer. 


«>«o 


APPENDIX. 


NO.  I. 


DEMONSTRACION  DE  ES TE  VIAGE  POR  TIERKA  Y  AGUA  CARACAS 
A   BOGOTA   E  IN  VERSO. 


Jor- 
na- 
da*. 

Fechai  y  huras  dc 
l>arUT. 

Logaret  de  Salida. 

De  AlmuraMf. 

De  Conurr. 

Derendirjur- 
uada. 

1.'  ^IIU 
l...r,.ri., 

1 

Dec,  26, 

a.  III.  6 

Caracas' 

Riiena  Vista 

San  Pedro 

Laxai* 

~i,j 

2 

22, 

5 

Laxas§ 

Coqiizas 

Victoria 

Virtoria 

5 

3 

23, 

5i 

N'ictoriaf 

Giicrre 

Giicrre 

Maracay 

10 

4 

24, 

H 

.Maracay 

San  Joaquin 

San  Joaquin 

Valencia 

u 

5 

Enero  1, 

p.m.  6 

Valencia* 

I'ocuyito 

2 

6 

2 

a.m.  5 

I'ocuyito 

Canljobo 

Chirgiia 

riiiaquillo 

12 

7 

3! 

5 

'rinu(|MiIlo 

Pairnas 

Paso    de    la 

San  Carlos 

13 

8 

10, 

p.m.  6 

San  Carlos* 

[Laxu 

San  Jose 

1 

9 

11. 

a.m.  3 

San  Jose 

Camoruco 

Camoruco 

Caramacate 

14 

10 

12, 

6 

Caramacate 

El  Altar 

El  Altar 

(•amelotal 

8 

11 

13, 

5 

Ciamclotal 

l.a  Morita 

Morita 

Banjuesimeto 

12 

12 

16, 

2 

ll;irqiif8imoto 
[lie  .Madrugada 

Qiiibor 

Quibor 

^uibor 

10 

13 

17, 

5 

Quibor 

Tocuyo 

locuyo  [baxo 

8 

14 

21, 

7 

Tociiyo* 

Ruena  Vista 

Buena  Vista 

Humocaro 

10 

15 

22, 

12 

Hiimocaro  Baxo 

Pcna 

8 

16 

23, 

9 

Pefia 

En  el  Monte 

Agua  Obispos 

Palmas 

8 

17 

24, 

8 

I'almas 

Idem 

Caraclie 

Caracbe 

6 

18 

25, 

7 

Caraclie 

Santa  .\na 

Santa  Ana 
En  elCaracol, 

Santa  Ana 

9 

19 

26, 

53 

Santa  Ana 

End  Monte 

sombre  dc  un 
arbol 

Truxillo 

[la  Plata 

H 

20 

29, 

7 

I'ruxillo* 

Sabana  Larga 

Hacienda    de 

9 

21 

30, 

n 

Plata 

[esta 

.Mcndoza 

La  Pucrta 

7 

22 

31, 

7 

PutTta 

Pie  de  la  Cu- 

Timothes 

8 

23 

Feb.    2, 

11 

Timothcs 

La  Veiita 

La  Venta 

3 

24 

3, 

6 

La  Veiita 

Mucuchies 

Mucuchies 

11 

25 

4, 

8 

.Miicucliies 

Mucupidie 

Mcrida 

7 

26 

7, 

8 

Mcrida* 

Egido 

Valle  de  C». 
[rupa 

9 

27 

8, 

7 

Cum  pa 

[la  Pefia 

Lagunillas 

Estanques 

11 

28 

11. 

6 

Estanqiies 

Hacienda    dc 

Pena 

Bayladores 

7 

29 

u. 

5 

Uayladorcs 

Bay 1 adores 

Cebada 

5 

30 

13, 

7 

Cebada 

En  el  Monte 

La  Gritja 

Gritja 

8 

31 

14, 

8 

Critja' 

Higucra 

Higuera 

7 

32 

15, 

7 

Mijjuera 

Sabana  Larga 

10 

10, 

5 

Sabana  Larga 

Capacho 

Cucuta 

12 

34 

20, 

9 

Cucuta  Rosario 

Garita 

6 

35 

21, 

7 

Garita 

Chinacota 

Alinadero 

6 

36 

22, 

8d 

Alinadcro 

Ctiopo 

Pamplona 

10 

37 

28, 

10 

Pamplona* 

[Guesta 

Venta 

Cacota 

4 

38 

Mar.    1, 

7i 

Cacota 

Baxada  de    la 

Llano  Grande 

Cliitaga 

7 

39 

0 

7 

Cliitaga 

[Grande 

Paramo    Co* 
piagate 

Pie  del  Para- 

[mo  Grande 

9 

40 

3, 

8 

Pie  del  Paramo 

Cerrito 

Concepcion 

8 

41 

4. 

12 

Concepcion 

Llano  Ansiso 

4 

42 

5, 

7 

Ansiso 

Orillas  de  Rio 
Capitanejo 

Capitanejo 

Chibatera 

8 

43 

6, 

5i 

Chibatera 

V'enta  de  Su- 

[ata 

Suata 

Suata 

9 

44 

7, 

p.m.  2 

.Siiat* 

Susacon 

11 

45 

8, 

a.m.  7 

Susacon 

Sativa 

Sativa 

Eslaba 

9 

46 

9, 

7 

Eslaba 

En  el  Monte 

Serinza 

Santa  Rosa 

8 

47 

10, 

8 

Santa  Rosa 

Llanos 

Venta  Sisga 

Venta  deMico 

14 

48 

11, 

7 

Venla  de  Mico 

Hicata 

Venta   Que- 
mada 

15 

49 

12, 

7 

VentaQuemada 

En  la  Cuesta 

Hato  Viejo 

Sediicio 

16 

50 

13, 

6 

Seducio 

Suesca              Guatavita 

Bogota 

26 

Bogota* 

—4 

In  the  several  places  are  prelised  acliaracteristic  mark,  apparently   intended  to  i)e«''?nate  the  relative  con 
sequence  of  the  several  places,  and  the  following  appears  to  be  the  order  oriiiajnitade  or  unponance  :-*  +  f« 


APPENDIX. 


629 


NO.  II.  ITINERARY  OF  A  JOURNEY  BY  THE  META  AND  THE  LLANOS 
TO  CARACAS.  BY  THE  CANON  OF  CHILL 


nays. 

i 

Departure. 

Time. 

Place  of  Departure. 

Place  of 
Halting. 

Chipaque" 

Natu  re  of 
Country. 

settled^ 

Leaguer. 

June  14 

p.m.  12^  Bogota 

6 

2 

15 

a.  m.  10  jChipaque 

Coqueza 

4 

O 

18 

6   Caqueza 

Messita 

5 

4 

19 

6^'Messita 

Taravita 

S 

5 

21 

7 

Taravita 

Susumuco 

desert 

5 

6 

22 

5 

Susumuco 

Servita 

settled 

5 

7 

24 

6 

Servita 

Asuay 

10 

8 

July     8 

7 

Asuay 

1st  post  of 

desert 

8 

9 

9 

p.  m.    5 

1st  post  of  Cundinamarca 

Cundina- 

Rio Neero 

2 

10 

10 

a.  m.    6 

Playa 

marca 

do. 

12 

11 

11 

6 

of  the  Meta 

18 

12 

12 

9 

BahaiaCorte 

settled 

20 

13 

18 

7 

St.  Miguel  de  Jua 

12 

14 

19 

6 

Maquivo 

17 

15 

20 

6i 

Boca  del  Guarimena 

15 

16 

23 

8 

St.  Miguel  de  Macuco 

11 

17 

24 

p.m.   2 

St.  Augustine  de  Guanapalo 

desert 

6 

18 

25 

1^ 

St.  Rosalie  de  Cabapuri 

11 

19 

26 

a.  m,    6^ 

Yslote 

8 

20 

27 

6 

Ysla 

16 

21 

28 

5 

15 

22 

29 

5 

18 

23 

30 

■     H 

15 

24 

31 

11 

Rctiro  de  Camelsford 

5 

25 

Aujnist  1 

6 

Piedra  de  Tigre 

22i 

26 

2 

6 

Riv.  del  Auraca 

21 

27 

3 

8 

Playa  de  Chiguires 

settled 

22 

28 

4 

H 

Riv.  de  Altamayca 

29 

6 

5i 

St.  Rafael  del  Altama 

H 

30 

7 

5 

Cano  del  Gasgua 

10 

31 

8 

8 

Cano  del  Negro 

12 

32 

9 

11 

Guayabal  en  el  Guarico 

desert 

13 

33 

10 

5 

Playa  de  Perital 

settled 

8 

34 

12 

6 

Alta  Gracia 

desert 

10 

35 

13 

6i 

Playa 

8 

36 

14 

^ 

Las  Palmes 

9 

37 

15 

6 

Playa  Estrecha 

settled 

10 

38 

21 

8 

Calabozo 

10 

39 

22 

5 

Pilar 

6 

40 

23 

6 

Hato  de  Ascano 

7 

41 

24 

7 

Mosquitero 

6 

42 

25 

5 

Flores 

5 

43 

26 

7 

St.  Juan  de  los  Moros 

6 

44 

27 

6i 

St.  Luis  de  Cura 

5 

45 

38 

5 

Victoria 

settled 

6 

46 

29 

Laxas 

settled 

18 

47 

30 

St.  Pedro 

settled 

5 

48 

31 

Caracas 

settled 

18—300 

Both  these  Itineraries  were  performed  in  1812. 


630  Al'PENDIX. 


NO.  lir.— ITINERARY  OF  COLONEL  ACOSTA,  ON  THE  ROUTE  FROM 
CARACAS  BY  THE  SAFEST  ROAD,  AND  MOST  CONVENIENT  FOR 
SUBSISTENCE  AND  ABUNDANT  PROVISIONS. 

Span,  leases 
From  Caracas  to  St.  Pedro,  ....  .        6J 

to  Victoria,  passinp  Consejo,  .  .  .  11 

by  San  Mateo  to  Maracay  in  the  valley  ofWragua,  .        7 

by  St.  Joaquin,  Guacara,  and  Guayo,  to  Valencia,  .  10 

The  route  thus  far  excellent,  having  only  to  pass  the  highlands  to  the 
foot  otCocuyzas. 

by  Tucuyta  to  Tanaquilla,         .....  10 

to  Tinaco,  .......        '^h 

Sau  Carlos,  ......  4^ 

Good  road,  having  only  to  pass  the  heights  of  Palmas  and  Herraanas. 

To  the  estate  of  Onoto,  .....  8 

by  the  mountain  El  Altar  to  the  village  of  Cabudare,  .         13 

to  Barquisimcto,  .  .  .  .  .  .  I J 

This  route  is  good,  excepting  only  the  Altar  mountain,  which  in  winter 
is  very  bad,  and  it  is  necessary  to  dismount  even  in  summer. 

to  Quibor,  .  .  .....  10 

Tucuyo,  ..*...  6 

These  two  journeys  may  be  performed  in  one,  by  setting  out  in  the 
afternoon  and  travelling  all  night,  as  the  road  is  good  and  the  sun  by 
day  is  hot. 

to  Humacaro  Baxo,  ......         6 

Obispos,  ......  6^ 

Carache,  .....••         5 

Santa  Ana,  ......  6^ 

Truxillo,  ......  •         ^i 

Good  roads  the  first  and  last  days'  journeys,  the  rest  high  lands,  but 
these  last  five  may  be  travelled  with  ease  in  four  days. 

To  Mendoza,        .......  H 

The  road  diverges  into  a  large  plain,  in  which  there  are  bouses  to  accom- 
modate travellers. 

From  Mendoza  to  Puerte,  Timothes,  and  Chacopo,  .  .         8 

This  road  is  not  good ;  the  paramo  commences  here,  which  is  called 
Muchechies,  at  the 

village  of  Muchechies,  (tolerably  cold,)  .  .  .  5^ 

by  Mucurabo,  Tabay,  to  Merida,  -  .  .  7 

by  San  Juan  to  the  villa  of  Egido,  .  .  .  6J 

to  the  plantation  of  Estanques,  .  .  *  .        ^ 

This  part  of  tiie  road  is  bad,  and  in  some  places  dangerous,  from  its 
declivity  and  narrowness. 
to  Bayladores  Village,  .....  6^ 

From  the  village  to  the  town  of  Bayladores,  2^  >  g 

to  Gritja,  .  .  .  6  j  3       "     *     ' 

This  road  is  not  good,  and  in  Gritja  terminates  the  desert,  called  that  of 
Wild  Boars. 

To  the  post  house  El  Cobre,  ....  5 

The  desert  commences  here,  and  terminates  beyond  the  post-house  of 
Ahullamar. 

From  El  Cobre  to  Ahullamar,     .....  5 

to  the  village  of  Tariba,         .....  4 

to  San  Christoval,  ....••  ^ 

These  three  journeys  should  be  performed  in  two,  but  it  is  necessary 
to  carry  provisions. 

To  Capacho,  .  .  .  .         4J  ">  ^  g 

San  Antonio  de  Cucuta,  .  4*5 


APPENDIX.  631 

This  b  Uie  last  village  of  Venezuela,  and  one  fourth  of  a  league  from  it 
the    river  Tachira   separates   Cundinamarca  from  Venezuela ;    one 
fourth  of  a  league  further  yoa  reach  Rosario  de  Cucuta,  a  town  of 
Cundinamarca,  ......  ■*• 

to  San  Joseph,        •....'  2^ 

.r  ■*  u  ^''°P°'          •           •            .'.'.".'.'  10 
it  It  be  not  necessary  to  change  mules,  you  may  take  the  direct  road 

without  entering  St.  Josef  direct  for  Pamplona,                .            .  8 

from  Pamplona  to  village  of  Cucuta,             ...  2| 

toChitaga, 4^ 

The  desert  of  Chitaga  commences  here,  the  road  mountainous  and  bad. 

to  Cerrito,            .......  6 

to  Capitanejo,  through  the  villages  of  Conception  and  Enciso,  10 
In  the  village  of  Capitanejo  the  river  is  crossed;   it  is  a  rapid  stream, 
and  the  bridge  not  repaired. 

From  Capitanejo  to  Zoata,         .....  4 

to  Susacon,                 ......  3 

Satiba,               .             .                           .             .             ,             ,  31 

Parish  of  Serinza,                .....  7 

Santa  Rosa,                   .             ,             .             .  *•         .            .  3| 

I'aypa,                    5j 

''^unja,              .......  5 

The  venta  of  Barrazon,  lofty  mountain,  snowy,  covered  always,  8f 

Choconta,         .......  6 

Zipaquira,               ......  8 

If  it  be  not  requisite  to  change  mules,  the  route  may  be  pursued  direct 
by  Zesquile,  without  passing  through  Zipaquira. 

From  Zipaquira  to  Bogota,         .....  7 

NO.  IV.— ITINERARY  OF  COLONEL  ACOSTA  FROM  BOGOTA  TO  CAR- 

TAGENA. 

It  is  necessary  to  write  beforehand  to  the  chief  persons  of  villages,  to  procure 
the  requisite  mules  for  saddle  and  baggage,  to  prevent  detention. 

It  is  also  necessary  to  carry  one  or  two  trunks  for  the  conveyance  of  provi- 
sions and  refreshments. 

Soadfrom  Bogota,  by  the  Magdalena :  by  land, from  Bogota  to  Honda, 
From  Bogota  to  Facatatiba,         .....  6 

to  Villeta,  ......  5 

Guaduas,  .......  4 

Bodegas  de  Honda,  .....  7—22 

This  whole  road  has  been  measured  geometrically,  and  marked  every  half  league 
as  far  as  Facatatiba,  where  the  mountains  commence,  the  road  leading  over 
the  famous  heights  of  Trigo  and  Sargento. 
The  navigation  of  the  Magdalena  from  Honda  to  Nare,  .  43^ 

There  are  seven  passes  that  are  bad  and  dangerous,  and  some  others 
not  so  dangerous,  so  that  a  tow  line  becomes  necessary  in  navigating 
upward. 

From  Nare  to  San  Bartolemeo,  .  -  .  .  26^ 

to  San  Pablo,  ......  38 

the  national  post  of  Ocaiia,  ....  52 

Mompox,  ......  37 

Baranquilla,  ......  59 

Sabaniila,  .  .  .  .  .  '      ,  .  ^ 

'J"here  are  many  villages  on  the  river  not  noticed  here,  where  provisions 
are  to  be  had,  and  fish  especially  abundant 


w 


032 


APPENDIX. 


No.  v.— ITFNEHAllY  OF  THE  ROUTE  FROM  ROGOl  A  TO  HONDA— 
BV  THE  MAl.DAI.ENA  1 0  MOMPOX  ANb  HAUUANCAS  NUEVO,  BY 
LAND  TO  TUKBACO  AND  CARTAGENA. 


From  Bogota  to                 Span. 

leagTies 

Span,  leagues. 

Fiicitativa, 

6 

.Mincliiqueo, 

- 

2 

Villetta, 

8 

Mompox, 

5 

Guaduas,  .        -         -         - 

7 

San  Simon, 

- 

4 

Bodega  de  Honda, 

. 

B 

Santa  Fernanda, 

1 

The  terry  to  Honda, 

li 

Santa  Ana, 

- 

2 

From  Honda  by  Conejo  andYcno 

Pinto, 

5 

to(>uarunio       ... 

6i 

Plato, 

12 

Buenavista, 

5 

Tcnerifi'e, 

4 

Narc, 

10 

Ezero, 

6 

Gurapata, 

9 

Pedraza,    • 

6 

San  Bartolemeo, 

45 

El  Cerro, 

3 

Sun  Pablo, 

38 

Penon  Baxo, 

2 

Barillos, 

15 

Punto  Gordo, 

3 

Morales, 

12 

Guimara, 

4 

Rio  Viejo, 

11 

Remolinas, 

4 

Regidor, 

4 

Barrancas  Nuevo, 

- 

6 

San  Pedro, 

5 

Overland  to 

Temalamcquc, 

.3 

Maliate, 

- 

7 

Penon, 

7 

Arjona, 

- 

6 

Guamar, 

2 

Tiirbaco, 

- 

8 

Margarita,     - 

- 

1 

Benavides, 

- 

5 

San  Fernando, 

4 

Cartagei.a, 

- 

10 

THE  END 


91 


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